Please see last week’s post for more information.

Currently viewing: A24’s Tony

Like many others who have an interest in food, travel and culture, I have a very soft spot for Anthony Bourdain.

I grew up watching Parts Unknown and No Reservations and consider him to be a huge influence in how I choose to eat, connect and travel. When I saw the trailer for the film a few months ago, I was very excited for a biopic.

While I had a few hesitations on the fabricated narrative of the film, I still watched it last night. I saw a chef on here say that the film is fine if you’re just watching a movie about a guy called Tony, but that it’s not great if it’s supposed to be about Anthony Bourdain. I have to agree.

Currently eating: Lunch service at the new Haggerston hotspot, Cremer

I was so pleased with my experience at Cremer that I will be back this weekend. The space was expansive, curated and comfortable. The food was delicious, light and fresh. The staff were attentive, friendly and responsive. The coffee was the perfect temperature. Cremer will be added to my usual rounds.

For our lunch, my friend and I split the vine leaf filled with saffron rice and marinaded peppers served with dill yoghurt, the baby chicken served with crispy, chicken fat potatoes, jus and homemade mayonnaise, and the green salad lovingly layered with zingy mustard dressing, fresh mint and a generous amount of chives.

Cremer on Instagram

1 Geffrye Street, Hoxton, London, E2 8JH

Currently bookmarking: recipes below

This baked salmon recipe

This sheet-pan ratatouille recipe

This caramelised fennel and olive linguine recipe

Currently buying: my first air fryer

I was extremely reluctant to get an air fryer for years. It seemed like a waste of equipment when my oven can do the same thing, but now, I’ve been converted. I see the light now.

It was during heatwave no. 3 of this summer when I decided to pull the trigger. I was extremely hesitant to turn on my oven and even using my stove made my kitchen unbearable.

Since its delivery, I genuinely think I’ve used it almost every single day. I love it.

I bought this one (£67).

Currently wanting: Perfumes from Byredo

I take scents very seriously. I know what I like and I know I need to rotate every once in awhile. I normally gravitate towards scents which are musky, strong in ouds and ambers or warm vanillas. I’m not usually a floral, powdery or gourmand kinda gal. I will do citrus in summer during the day, but I yearn for punchier scents whenever I do.

Over the weekend, after our lunch at Cremer, I helped a friend pick out a birthday gift for someone. We visited Diptyque, which is home to my everyday/work perfume, L’eau Papier. A white musk with notes of steamed rice and blonde woods. I’ve seen it in a list of perfumes which smell like a library, which felt very fitting.

Before deciding on a game plan, we also popped into Byredo. I’ve been eyeing the classic Bal d’Afrique and Black Saffron for years and smelling them both again solidified how much I want to add both to my scent collection.

Linked here (£155)

Currently wanting: Trullo the Cookbook by Tim Siadatan

I haven’t shared a list of my favourite London restaurants yet, but trust me, that Trullo is top 3. I have never had a bad meal, or even a bad plate for that matter.

I’ve been blindly encouraging others to gift the Trullo Cookbook to their loved ones who love Italian food for years as I have full faith that the recipes in this book are incredibly delicious. I would love to add it to my cookbook collection at home.

Linked here (£23)

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Here’s where irony kicks in: I don’t even drink much anymore. If I’m going for a glass of wine somewhere soon, I’m hoping it’ll be at one of these spots.

Bonne Route, Harringay

I forget how I stumbled upon Bonne Route, but the cosiness of feeling like you’re in someone’s living room drew me in. The space looks lowkey and intimate, making Bonne Route a perfect hidden gem if you’re looking to impress a friend or date. I must note that they offer cocktails as well, with a pickle martini and smokey mezcal margarita on their sample menu. The nibbles on offer are mostly notably salty and savoury. Briny, sour and salty— all of my favourite flavours.

Bonne Route on Instagram

42 Quernmore Rd, Finsbury Park, London N4 4QP

Diogenes the Dog, Elephant & Castle

I’ve been meaning to go to Diogenes the Dog for ages now but rarely find myself south of the river. Focusing on wines from unexpected regions, Diogenes the Dog focuses on, wait for it, the underdogs of wine production.

Of course, they offer the heavy hitters of new world and old world wine production, but a closer look at their wine list has the likes of China, Czechia, and Texas thrown into the mix. Consider me intrigued.

Diogenes the Dog on Instagram

96 Rodney Rd, London SE17 1BG

Hector’s, De Beauvoir Town

Considering how much of a fixture on the North London wine bar scene Hector’s is, it’s actually quite embarrassing that I haven’t made my way over yet. Unassuming but excellent is the impression I’ve gathered from all the praise I’ve heard over the years. Boasting an impressive wine list with unusual finds and a great array of vintages, I like to think Hector’s reflects its neighbourhood well. Chic, creative and current.

Hector's on Instagram

49a Ardleigh Rd, London N1 4HS

A Personal Favourite: Bruno, Victoria Park

I found Bruno by mistake the one year I lived in East London and I immediately bookmarked it on the spot. Not only does Bruno offer an excellent assortment of wine by the bottle and by the glass, they also house a rotating chef in residence each month. I’m partial to whatever chilled red they have by the glass and I’ve never been disappointed.

Bruno on Instagram

211a Victoria Park Rd, London E9 7JN

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I had a Comparative Literature minor, partly because one of my good friends was a Comp Lit major and we wanted to have some classes together before she graduated, and partly because I grew close to some of the professors in that department, who taught me how to think critically and question in ways which complemented my art history studies very well. Two professors in particular come to mind who shaped my experience in such positive and effecting ways that I still bear the marks of their teachings in the way I navigate the world years later.

One of my final electives for this minor was enrolling in a course taught by a professor I had not had before which focused on Spanish and Latin American stories from a range of different countries. I remember signing up specifically because the subheading of the class mentioned “modern feminisms.” We had two women on the syllabus and I had to sit through a class with a professor who looked eerily similar to my deceased father and told me my work was “provocative.”

When I flagged the feminism issue to the professor in our final class, coincidentally also my last class of undergrad before moving to the UK for my masters, I will never forget what he replied.

He laughed and responded that “one of his colleagues” who works in the field said to him that “when the women of Latin America start writing things that are worth reading, then we’ll read them.”

Luckily this was 2020, so I was able to leave the Zoom call immediately and write a lengthy email in my course review. He’s since retired (and now lives in the part of upstate New York I grew up in…also eery), but I still get agitated when I think of that bitter end to my course.

As a result of both personal interest and rebellion, I’ve made it a priority for over a decade to focus on women’s voices and art, especially during my studies, to complete the canon. I’ve always enjoyed reading and learning about women’s creative contributions from all over the world.

Culturally curious, I find it to be a great gateway to learn about regions and societies I don’t belong to or haven’t visited yet. When it comes to reading for leisure, I do air on the side of fiction.

You’ll find some of my most memorable reads below. This is by no means an extensive list and I’m always interested to find new voices.

France: Bonjour Tristesse/A Certain Smile by Françoise Sagan

My edition contained two stories- Bonjour Tristesse and A Certain Smile. A bit late, but I would say Bonjour Tristesse is the perfect summer read. Think hot, hazy and set in the lush French Riviera. A French classic, the story follows a dramatic teenager called Cécile one summer when she goes to the south with her father and his string of lovers resulting in a cinematic tragedy. Indulgent, crass and somehow incredibly entertaining, the novella reads quickly as you’re wondering what Cécile will plot by the next page.

A Certain Smile may be the less popular of the two, but it was my preferred. Following a university student navigating a clandestine relationship with her boyfriend’s uncle, the plot is dubious by today’s standards, to say the least, but there is something so bittersweet and memorable in the narrator’s yearning and romanticism. A perfect read for the yearners.

South Korea: If I Had Your Face by Frances Cha

Set in fast-paced Seoul, the novel is quite character driven as it follows four women who live in the same apartment complex as they navigate impossible standards of beauty, obligation and femininity under various social and financial constraints. Think themes related to bargaining with the patriarchy, the commodification of affection and discourse on rampant consumerism in Korean society.

Argentina: Things We Lost in the Fire by Mariana Enriquez

Whenever I am in a reading funk, I always turn to a short story collection to whet my palate again. This is one of my favourites that I’ve read.

Gothic, eerie and atmospheric, this is a fascinating collection of short horror stories told exclusively by female protagonists set primarily in Buenos Aires which leave you wanting more when each draws to an untimely close. I’ve read two of Enriquez’s short story collections (the other is called The Dangers of Smoking in Bed) and both were excellent.

Belgium: I Who Have Never Known Men by Jacqueline Harpman

Incredibly harrowing and dystopian, the book follows an unnamed narrator who is the youngest in a group of imprisoned women monitored by male guards. One day, an alarm sounds, the guards flee with the cage unlocked and the women escape into an unfamiliar world. This book is heart-wrenching, emotive and bleak.

My edition included an introduction to the author which detailed how her parents survived the Holocaust, a clear personal influence on a story rooted in annihilation, control and hopelessness. This is a very heavy novella and will likely stay with you for years to come.

Palestine: Minor Detail by Adania Shibli

I must confess that at the time I am writing this, this is my next read.

From what I’ve read, the story is told in two intertwined narratives, the first detailing the torture and murder of a Palestinian woman by Israeli soldiers one year after the Nakba, and the second a modern-day woman living in Palestine who becomes obsessed with uncovering more about this crime. Meditations on gender-based violence, traumatic memory and life under occupation are central themes to this deeply important story.

Japan: Life Ceremony by Sayaka Murata

Out of all the authors on this list, Murata is my most read. I’ve read Convenience Store Woman, Earthlings and Life Ceremony, and can confirm, each is very, very strange.

Life Ceremony is another short story collection and was my first read from her. Upon reflection, I don’t think I’ll tell you anything else about it for fear of putting you off. Just pick it up and see for yourself.

Other women in translation on my reading list:

Brazil: Clarice Lispector

Chile: Isabel Allende

France: Marguerite Duras

South Korea: Han Kang

Poland: Olga Tokarczuk

Japan: Mieko Kawakami

Italy: Elena Ferrante

(I am a firm believer the writer behind the pseudonym is a woman)

Leave a comment with your favourites or further recommendations! Happy reading!

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For flowers: The Fields N7

When you first exit the tube station, most of the time you are greeted by a friendly face selling flowers and coffee out of the stand just in front. The only day you aren’t greeted by that is on Sundays when they’re closed. An offshoot of a brick and mortar shop about a five minute walk away, the stand often boasts beautiful familiar flower varieties as well as thoughtful bouquets, perfect for grabbing on the go before a birthday or special event. My most recent purchase there was a few stems of beautiful dark fuchsia peonies for a friend’s birthday, but I have been known to grab flowers for myself here as a treat or pick-me-up.

The Fields N7 on Instagram

10 Campdale Rd, London N7 0EA

For a morning pastry: Authentique Boulangerie

I am clearly a bit biased towards French bakeries and have very high standards as a result, but luckily Tufnell Park is home to Authentique Boulangerie, which boasts not only one of the best croissants in the UK as crowned in 2025, but also the best baguettes and signature sourdough in the UK in 2026. Prioritising premium ingredients and traditional French techniques, the craftsmanship and pride the team behind Authentique puts into each product is clear. The staff are also incredibly friendly and can brighten any morning!

I say live a little and treat yourself to their Pain Suisse or a cheeky Jambon Buerre.

Authentique Boulangerie on Instagram

146A Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HP

For a taste of France: Authentique Epicerie & Bar

If a full meal is more your speed, a few steps away sits Authentique’s wine bar, which serves a changing, regional menu, an array of cheeses and charcuterie and more than 1,200 wines by the bottle. Themed events are also on the roster, boasting Beaujolais Nouveau day menus and raclette nights when appropriate as well as a Sunday roast à la français on weekly rotation. There is also the option to buy French wines, cheeses, and pantry staples (think delicious mustards and vinegars especially) to take home, as half the store is a traditional epicerie.

I have spent a midweek birthday here in the past, and got to blow out my candles on a pear tarte tatin served with crème fraîche. Very chic and very delicious.

Authentique Epicerie & Bar on Instagram

114A, 116 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HL

For an Italian dinner: La Tana

Across the street from Authentique sits a tiny, chef-driven modern Italian restaurant called La Tana. Unassuming from the exterior, the chefs inside deliver largely on elevated techniques, refined plating and seasonal dining. Maintaining 5.0 stars on Google since it’s opened, a friend in the neighbourhood has described eating here as if you are eating with family. The team knows how to take care of you, and it is best to come very hungry.

La Tana on Instagram

127 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HR

For a pizza fix: Yard Sale Pizza

Yes, the cult pizza chain does have an outpost in Tufnell Park near the station. Offering a menu of host pizzas as well as a limited edition, monthly rotating pizza from a guest chef, it’s easy to see why Yard Sale is so popular. This is also where I plea to have the Bubala pizza brought back, just for a little. Please.

Yard Sale Pizza on Instagram

6 Dartmouth Park Hill, London NW5 1HL

To shop: Diverse Clothing Store

I had walked by Diverse Clothing Store so many times before I went in. One night out at A Bar with Shapes for a Name, a drunk woman raved about a boutique in Tufnell Park offering Scandinavian brands, APC and loads of smaller, carefully curated designers. It didn’t take long to put two and two together, and when I went into Diverse the next day, I was shocked at how I slept on such a hidden gem before.

One of my favourite moves is visiting Diverse before friends’ birthdays as they stock Tortware, my favourite claw clip brand. There are also numerous knitwear pieces, bags and earrings on my mental wishlist from Diverse.

Diverse Clothing Store on Instagram

148 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HP

For drinks: Tufnell Park Tavern

I love Tufnell Park Tavern, and it is where you’ll most likely find me if I’m going for drinks in my neighbourhood. Whenever the weather is right, I love sitting outside in their front garden drinking pints of Victoria Málaga or splitting a bottle of orange wine and an order of fried potatoes with friends. Their food quality is also excellent, boasting a changing menu and Mediterranean flavours, if you’re in the mood for something beyond just bar snacks.

Tufnell park Tavern on Instagram

162 Tufnell Pk Rd, London N7 0EE

For mezze with a mission: Cafe Palestina

This one kind of feels like cheating as it’s between Tufnell Park and Kentish Town, but Cafe Palestina offers community building just as much as it offers delicious plates. Selling fair-trade ceramics and products from Palestine, working with local human rights charities, offering Arabic classes and a Sunday brunch which is often sold out, Cafe Palestina is a local powerhouse and well worth many visits.

Cafe Plaestina on Instagram

53 Fortess Rd, London NW5 1AD

For dinner inspiration trifecta: Fam Market, MEAT London and Jonathan Norris

On evenings when I have a bit more time to treat myself to a delicious home-cooked meal, you’ll find me bouncing between these three stores. Fam Market is the one I frequent the most, their range of fresh produce unbeatable and the staff know me decently well at this point. Depending on what protein I’m after, you may catch me in either the butcher or fishmonger, but luckily for me, they are just across the street from each other.

Fam Market on Instagram

155-157 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HR

MEAT London on Instagram

147 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HR

Jonathan Norris on Instagram

140 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2HP

Appetite Archive

Neighbourhood Guides: Kentish Town

Up one stop on the Northern line from Camden Town sits Kentish Town, a neighbourhood which marries city energy and peaceful living beautifully. Bustling, busy, and exciting, the neighbourhood offers countless spots for both visiting foodies and locals alike…

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3 months ago · 14 likes · 2 comments · Ally

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You can imagine my heartbreak when I saw on Instagram they were closing their doors after nearly 15 years in Soho. I knew I had to visit one last time to say my goodbyes.

For my final meal, I dined with my dear friend Leoma. If I had to describe Leoma, I would say she is like the main character in a 2000s rom com— with all the same levels of luck, charisma and charm. Having met years prior at a rather unorthodox job interview (from which neither of us got a call back, but that’s a story for another time), Leoma has been consistently one of my favourite dining companions and closest friends in London. We met shortly before I enrolled in culinary school and when I told her what was coming, she informed me her mother was an alumna and she grew up eating her incredible cooking.

We braved the streets of Soho and meandered through the crowds of post-work drinkers to arrive safely for a peaceful and early Friday night dinner. Soon our table was graced with a portion of smoky and spicy Cerignola olives, an elderflower spritz for Leoma and a glass of chilled red wine for myself and the game of table Tetris every diner knows well began. One of my favourite constants on the menu at 10 Greek Street was their flatbread— crispy, potently garlicky and the perfect vehicle for any hummus, tapenade or labneh it is served with.

The larger plates began arriving with the first up being a bluefin tuna and swordfish crudo served with a flurry of finely grated bottarga, thin, pickled dill cucumbers and mild chili over top. The swordfish was delicate in flavour and buttery, the tuna rich and fatty, and the bottarga was a needed, salty hit. I absolutely adore bottarga for both its colour and flavour, so I was very happy to see it on the menu.

Next up was possibly my favourite item we ordered (after the flatbread, of course). Something to know about me is that if I see mussels on a menu, I will be ordering them and I will be locked in the entire time they are at the table.

Luckily for me, there were mussels in a rich white wine sauce with herbaceous fino and a slurry of sea vegetables available. Originally served with chorizo, we opted for it without the pork. I was prying open the little black shells, pulling out the meat and drinking the sauce in such a focused way it bordered on obscene. I said to Leoma I am not proud of who I am when mussels are on the table, but God, were they good.

Soon, crispy, salty baby potatoes joined the mix along with a generous portion of fried polenta encircled in a vinegary and jammy piperade and topped with Gorgonzola Dolce and microgreens. At this point, we were sufficiently stuffed and very satisfied.

While 10 Greek Street’s residency is coming to a close on Friday and will be greatly missed, Greek Street will still remain one of my favourite dining streets in Soho with nearby Noble Rot, Osteria Vibrato and a newly opened Forza Wine now holding the torch.

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Nesō Studios rings

Paros, Greece

I’ve visited a few Greek islands over the past decade and while all have been exceptionally beautiful, few have charmed me as Paros had. I saw some of the most beautiful sunsets of my life, ate many delicious meals, discovered one of my favourite wines and got one of my best tans to date while in Paros. Paros also boasted some of the best artisanal shopping I had ever seen.

Walking through the winding streets of Naossa, a town to the north of the island, I spotted a ring in the window that I instantly fell in love with. Upon entering the store, I quickly realised I was going to come home with more than just one item. The ring I originally wanted had a thick band with an organic design and when I tried it on, it fit perfectly. Naturally I began browsing and made a mental wishlist of two other rings, one with a small emerald set east-west and the other a raw ruby caged into a gold design.

I couldn’t help but sing my praises of the designs to the owner, Zoe, who explained that each piece was handcrafted through an ancient Greek practice of wax-casting. Zoe was friendly, incredibly cool and invited us to come by the following day for drinks.

We returned to the store and I left Paros with all three rings. I wear two of them every day years later and bring out the ruby for special occasions.

Neso Studio on Instagram

Ναούσης, Paros 844 00, Greece

Al Jazeera Perfumes Oud

Doha, Qatar

Okay, okay. I may have just said I saw some of the best sunsets of my life in Paros… but I will always say I saw the best sunset of my life in Qatar.

It was a very happy accident. After an unexpectedly long lunch, we headed toward Sealine, an area an hour south of Al Wakrah where the desert meets the sea. We lost track of time and ended up having much less time in the dunes before sundown than we expected. After driving up and down the dunes, we began driving back towards the main road and saw that the sun appeared massive and low in the sky. It was a shade of red I’ve never seen in nature before. Between the bumpiness of driving over sand and the quickness with which the sun set, no photos I took of that sunset do it justice.

My first trip to Doha was nothing short of incredible. It was my first time in the Middle East and I was nervous going into it. I was so worried about dressing incorrectly or accidentally doing something which could be seen as inconsiderate of local customs, but after the first day or so, I settled in. I had an incredibly hospitable host to show me around and guide me through his favourite local spots. I tried many local foods, wandered the Souq, wore an abaya and enjoyed my time in such a clean and safe place. Coming from London, I was very impressed.

We were staying in Msheireb, the downtown area of Doha, and across from our hotel was an outpost of Al Jazeera Perfumes. Going into the trip, I had a mental check list of items I’d love to take back with me, and oud was one of them. I ended up leaving Qatar with two different ouds— one from Al Jazeera and another from a local vendor in Souq Waqif. Burning the Al Jazeera oud at home is an experience. It is floral, sweet, not too smokey, and takes me right back to Qatar.

Al Jazeera Perfumes on Instagram

Barahat Msheireb St, Doha, Qatar

Postcards

La Ciotat, France

One hot and sticky summer, Paris hosted the Olympics, and all my Parisian friends were desperate to escape the city. Like many others, we flocked to the south and set up camp working remotely from an Airbnb for the week. We passed our days alternating between checking emails and dipping in the pool and we spent our evenings going into little Provencal towns and nearby Marseille.

On one evening, I found us a natural wine bar serving small plates for dinner in La Ciotat, a small costal town. In an attempt to beat the heat, we stuck to cold plates with fat sardines, anchovies in local olive oil and chili, and a fregola dish gracing the table. And bread. Lots and lots of bread.

Afterwards, we went for a walk and found a few shops selling local products. One friend purchased some jewellery, but I was drawn to a stack of hand-drawn postcards from a local artist. Cute and compact, they slipped right into my suitcase and now sit framed near the entrance to my flat.

These little postcards hold a particular sentimental value as this trip marked our first summer girls’ trip which is now a standing tradition.

Et Bon Vent on Instagram

12 Rue du Maréchal Foch, 13600 La Ciotat, France

Marcona almonds

Málaga, Spain

One spring, I planned a trip to Southern Spain as a break from dreary London skies and in an ironic twist of fate, this trip was completely rained out. I’m not even being dramatic. It was the most rain this part of Spain had seen in 70 years and we saw sun only on the last day.

A lot of people would consider Málaga to be an airport city, but offering direct beach access, delicious food and tinto de verano galore, Málaga has everything you could want for a city break. One of the key sites to visit is their Mercado de Atarazanas, a traditional market with vendors selling regional foods. We were guided to a vendor selling juicy garlic marinated olives and a local special, Marcona almonds fried in extra virgin olive oil and tossed generously with sea salt. The vendor was able to sous-vide the goodies so they were safe for travel, and I returned back to the rainy UK with a suitcase 2 kg heavier.

C. Atarazanas, 10, Distrito Centro, 29005 Málaga, Spain

Handmade leather sandals

Athens, Greece

Whenever people visit Greece for the first time, I always advise them to go to a sandal shop. My love affair with Greek sandals started in a shop called Pagonis in Naxos, which has been crafting sandals for 80 or so years. Countless styles available in a range of the softest coloured and dyed leathers, the soles are so flexible they meld with your foot as you walk, and I’m yet to get a blister from any pair I’ve owned. They’re always my go to shoes during the summer and whenever I wear a different sandal, I’m always left regretful when a blister inevitably appears.

My most recent pair comes from a random sandal shop in Athens. We tried on numerous styles and each walked out with a purchase. My friends were shocked at how comfortable they were compared to more commercial sandals, and all I could say was, I told you so.

Qinwan stuffed dates

Doha, Qatar

God, these dates.

Imagine the juiciest, most caramelly, melt in your mouth date you’ve ever had. Now multiply that experience times 10 if you want to understand how incredible these dates are. Our hotel left us a few each morning as a welcome gift to the room and that’s when I knew I needed to take some home.

There are outposts in London, in Harrods Food Hall, and the Rosewood recently opened a Qinwan Cafe (both institutions are Qatari owned), but the experience of having them in Qatar was so special.

My official flavour ranking goes as follows:

1. Dark Chocolate Praline

2. Halva Sesame (Halva as I know it is known as rahash in other communities)

3. Dark Chocolate Orange

4. Candied Ginger

5. Milk Chocolate Raspberry

6. Peanut Butter (the best seller apparently)

7. Pistachio Slivers

8. Dubai Chocolate

9. Milk Chocolate Sea Salt

10. Pistachio Cream

11. White Chocolate Rose

12. Halva Pistachio

13. Almond

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The city is small, relaxed and highly walkable with many pintxos bars in the old town neighbouring each other making for an easy bar hop and eat situation. The pinxtos bars are fast-paced, busy and hectic. Escaping the crowd at the bar often meant balancing a glass of the regional sparkling white wine called txakoli on the plate holding your gildas and praying no one would bump you or throw an elbow whilst making your speedy exit to eat on the street.

Admittedly, it took us a bit of time to acclimate to the fare of eating here. I will say any planning or dining expectations from cities like London and Paris, where organisation and finesse are key, should be checked at the door. The first dinner we originally slotted out 2 hours for was suddenly done in 20 minutes, but we immediately understood what eating in this city entailed. I’d say to lean into it and prepare accordingly.

In previous guides, I’ve given places to eat, shop, visit, etc., but this formula feels unsuitable for a destination like San Sebastián. Instead, I’ll be giving my list of restaurants and dishes not to be missed since that’s why we’re all here anyway.

If I had to choose an absolute favourite spot or item from this trip, I would struggle, but I would eventually settle on the Txuleta steak from Bar Nestor. Our mission to secure this steak began on the day at 11:30 am. We queued for around an hour in anticipation of putting our name down for lunch. As they opened and began taking names, we realised we’d be invited back for the final seating before their afternoon closure, leaving us free to enjoy the beach for a few hours before our meal.

When we returned, we were greeted by our friendly server who guided us to our seats evicting the men sat there from the previous service. There is no menu at Bar Nestor, and if there is, we didn’t see one. We trusted our server to guide the meal and soon found perfectly charred padrón peppers, a glistening tomato salad and two tinto de veranos on our table. After a few bites, our server presented us with two massive, impressive pieces of bone-in Txuleta steaks. We opted for the slightly smaller piece on the right-hand side.

Without further ado, please look at how beautiful this steak was.

Bar Nestor on Instagram

Arrandegi Kalea, 11, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Arriving at our table nearly rare in a sizzling hot cast iron, we finished our pieces to our desired cooking on the hot surface before each bite. We saw Spaniards at other tables nibbling off any meat left on the bone. We opted to render the golden fat as much as possible in order to wipe it all up with bread at the end of the meal, which was swiftly replenished as we neared the last piece. I think this was possibly the most silent we had ever been while eating— we were both completely locked in on savouring each piece. After we cleaned the bone, I declare that this may be the most delicious thing I’ve ever eaten while traveling. And this was just our first full day.

Only one item on the trip we duplicated, and that was the txuleta burger at Bar Desy. Located outside the old town across the river in Gros, Bar Desy is known for their blue txuleta burger served on a pillowy bun with thick layers of cream cheese on each side of the patty. When we first ordered it, we split one and, immediately after the first bite, we regretted not getting individual burgers. The meat was succulent, topped with flaky sea salt and dripping with juices. We knew it’d be good, but we were shocked by how something so simple was so effective and delicious.

Upon returning to work, a chef and I compared notes on our favourite spots from our San Sebastián stints weeks apart and we both agreed this was one of the standout dishes.

Bar Desy on Instagram

Local 19, Ronda Kalea, 4, Loc 4, 20001 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

We first went to Bar Desy as a apertif before a dinner at nearby Gerald’s Bar for our only proper sit-down, multi-course meal of the trip. Gerald’s Bar does take reservations, but we chanced it and ended up sat at the bar across from our very helpful bartender. To start off, we had two glasses of a chilled, light-bodied red wine to wash down a portion of meaty, briny olives. Gerald’s Bar is known for two dishes in particular, a steak tartare served with a golden egg yolk, slivers of caperberries and perfectly charred slices of toast, and a tagliatelle with liver and carmelised onions. We ordered both, along with the dish of the day, a massive portion of tuna belly served with a fresh and citrusy tomato salsa. During our meal, the bartender recommended a similar red wine to try and we ended up ordering a few more glasses. We were absolutely stuffed after this meal, but the regional cheese platter would’ve been ordered for dessert if we had the space.

Gerald’s Bar on Instagram

Iparragirre K., 13, 20001 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

In terms of proper pintxos, my favourites were from Bar Txepetxa. Specialising in anchovies, this is savoury girl heaven. We tried three of their toasts— vinegar cured anchovies topped with roe, another with more vinegar cured anchovies served with snow crab, which was the staff recommendation, but their salted anchovy toast was my preferred, as they were extremely flavourful and incredibly umami rich. Bar Txepetxa also boasted my favourite gildas of the trip.

Bar Txepetxa on Instagram

Arrandegi Kalea, 5, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Some other pintxos spots I’d recommend would include Atari (their steak also looked excellent) and Borda Berri. We did visit Bar Sport, perhaps the most famous pintxos spot in the city, and it was also good, but we didn’t think fighting the crowd there was entirely worth it.

I was really interested in trying Ganbara, an Anthony Bourdain favourite known for their mushrooms served with a cured egg yolk, but it was closed the week we were in town. Two other spots I’d be keen to visit upon my next trip would be La Cuchara de San Temo for their beef cheeks and Casa Valles, the birthplace of the gilda.

In terms of Spanish tortillas, Bar Antonio’s was my favourite. We woke up bright and early to join the queue at 9 am and were pleased with the orderly fashion they sat guests. We shared the table with an American couple and all had a round of coffees and portions of their famous tortilla. Packed to the brim with caramelised onions slowly and carefully cooked down, melt in your mouth potatoes and softened green bell peppers, Bar Antonio’s tortilla definitely exceeded our flavour expectations. I would say it was less eggy than other Spanish tortillas I’ve had, but very, very tasty.

Bar Antonio on Instagram

Bergara Kalea, 3, 20005 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

To finish on a sweet note, we tried a few different Basque cheesecakes. La Viña is known as the inventors of Basque cheesecake and offer a very custardy version. My personal favourite was from Bassk Cheesecakers which offered a similar texture but a bit more sour in flavour, which is my preference.

31 de Agosto Kalea, 3, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

For a coffee fix, we visited Simona Specialty Coffee Club and Driper in Gros. Head’s up, Simona’s gets very busy! Opt for a takeaway coffee and enjoy it on the beach instead or go to nearby Driper for a quieter start to the day.

Driper on Instagram

Kolon Pasealekua, 12, 20002 Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain

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With that being said, something I know how to do very well without any recipe referencing needed is a pantry pasta. I always have an array of different pasta shapes, lengths and drying methods tucked away in what I affectionately refer to as my carb drawer. One of my favourites to have on hand is a tiny powerhouse known as ditalini. Tiny, tubular and occasionally ridged, I find it to be the perfect pasta when I want something brothy and warming, like a soup, or something hearty and nostalgic, like a pasta e fagioli.

When I first posted that Note, I really didn’t expect it to gain as much traction as it is, but I am glad to know we all share a love and appreciation for a lovely little pasta dinner. I’ve been asked to share a recipe for this Note and I am incredibly flattered!

(I need to put a disclaimer here that I originally didn’t measure anything, so the measurements below are an estimate. Sorry!)

Serves 2

Ingredients

300 ml chicken stock, or 1 chicken bouillon cube dissolved in 300 ml boiling water

20 ml olive oil, plus extra for serving

3 garlic cloves, finely minced

1/2 courgette, sliced into thin rounds

a pinch of thyme

a pinch of sage

a pinch of chilli flakes

1 bay leaf

150 g ditalini, or another small pasta, like orzo

100 g canned chickpeas, drained and washed

100 g frozen petit pois, or any other type of frozen pea

5 g cold butter, cubed

Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated

Seasoning

fine salt and black pepper

Method

1. Pour the chicken stock into a small pot and keep warm.

2. Put olive oil and garlic into a pan and gently warm over medium heat. Once fragrant, add the courgette rounds in a single layer, sprinkle over the dried herbs and chilli, then cook until the centre of each round becomes translucent. Season, and stir to coat in the garlic-infused olive oil.

3. Add the dry ditalini and let toast slightly in the heat of the pan. Add the bay leaf and begin ladling in some stock whilst stirring to absorb. Continue to add stock little by little whenever the pan looks dry stirring occasionally to ensure the pasta does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Repeat until the ditalini are mostly cooked.

   After about 10 minutes, the ditalini should still have a bit of bite and a sauce should have begun to form from the starch of the pasta and the stock.

4. Add the chickpeas and petit pois and stir to combine. Once the peas have cooked, remove from the heat and add in cold butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. Quickly toss to emulsify the sauce and adjust seasoning as needed.

   

5. Serve with freshly ground black pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and a few more lashings of Parmigiano. Enjoy!

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Currently reading: My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante

I feel like I’m going through withdrawals without an Italian trip on the horizon. To scratch this itch (and maybe the start of a new series on here? wink wink), I’ve picked up a book where famously the setting reads just as much of a main character as everyone else in the story. Heralded as the best book of the 21st century, My Brilliant Friend tells the tale of two lifelong friends set in postwar Naples. I’ve read one Ferrante book in the past (The Days of Abandonment, anyone?) but I am enjoying the writing and storytelling much more in My Brilliant Friend. Maybe I’ll add all four books of her Neapolitan Quartet to my summer reading list. TBC!

Currently viewing: “Frida: The Making of an Icon” at Tate Modern

In my past life (my university years), I earned two degrees in art history. In my undergraduate studies, I received departmental honours and in my postgraduate studies, I earned just 1 point shy of distinction from one of the top programs in the world. I don’t frequently use this part of my brain anymore as my days are now filled with culinary arts instead of fine arts. When I first fell in love with art history as a teenager, one of my gateways was an interest in women artists (if you have an interest in gender studies and haven’t read Linda Nochlin’s “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?", regardless of what industry you are in, I highly recommend). I feel exceptionally lucky this month as Tate Modern has recently opened two temporary exhibitions on two of my favourite artists: Frida Kahlo and Ana Mendieta. I’ll be checking out Frida’s first.

Currently eating: A few tins from Tinned Fish Market

A culmination of a food slump after the high of a week in Basque country coupled with a scorching summer in London, I’m challenging myself to shop in my pantry first before I accumulate any more kitchen ingredients. Please look at these beautiful mussels I had sitting in my cupboard from the Tinned Fish Market! They were lovingly used with garlic, chili, saffron and lots of fresh parsley in a delicious pasta last week.

Linked here

Currently bookmarking: Recipes below

This melon and proscuitto salad

This Persian pomegranate chicken

This Gemista recipe

Currently buying: new bowls from H&M Home

I have somehow shattered 2/3 of my yogurt bowls over the past month. I’ve ordered this set as my replacement.

Currently wanting: The Ines Pants from Eaves

Whenever I’m browsing during the warmer months, I always check the composition of any item before purchasing. These trousers are 100% cotton and personally, I’m a sucker for any piece of clothing in a chocolatey brown colourway. These will be living on my wishlist for the time being.

Linked here (£184)

Currently wanting: Lugma: Abundant Dishes And Stories From My Middle East by Noor Murad

I’ve been following Noor on Instagram for awhile and every single recipe she shares of someone making a dish from this book looks right up my alley.

Linked here (£18.91)

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Tucked away inside the well-preserved Piazza Croce dei Vespri in Palermo’s old town, Osteria dei Vespri presents one of the most refined and romantic spaces we found. Think cobblestones meeting warm yellows and reds of the palazzo facade it occupied, wrought iron chairs and tables lined with crisp white tablecloths. A light breeze flowed into the piazza rustling the greenery and cooling outdoor diners sitting in the unrelenting Sicilian sun. Music played softly from the restaurant’s interior and we were greeted by the wire-haired dachshund from the next table.

Our server offered us her personal recommendations from the menu, her favourite wines, and her local suggestions for future meals and shopping, including the local artisan who made her earrings. At the time of this visit, I was a vegetarian who didn’t stray. This posed no issue and she and the chef were happy to craft a meal suitable to my limitations off menu.

My dining companion on this meal was my longtime friend, Marie, who scouted this restaurant. We ordered glasses of white wine and enjoyed each course as it arrived laughing and relaxing. When we reached the pasta course, a beautiful shallow bowl of freshly made pappardelle, an earthy melody of local mushrooms and herbs, swirls of bitter, fatty olive oil and salty, thin slices of cheese graced the table. I still think about this dish constantly— so simple and so unbelievably good.

The food we ate in Palermo was exceptional across the board, but this meal stood out as one of the best. Whenever people ask me what my favourite food cities are, Palermo is always lovingly mentioned. If it made such an impression on me back then, I am eager to go back now that I am no longer a vegetarian, and when I do, I will be returning to Osteria dei Vespri.

Osteria dei Vespri on Instagram

Piazza Croce dei Vespri, 6, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy

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9 AM: Coffee and a Pastry at Layla Bakery

Beautiful breads, airy croissants, and seasonal offerings on both sides of the sweet and savoury divide, start the day off right by being spoiled for choice at Layla Bakery. Layla boasts loads of outdoor seating, so grab your coffee and pastry to eat in and watch Notting Hill wake up with you.

Layla Bakery on Instagram

332 Portobello Rd, London W10 5SA

11 AM: A Walk Down Blenheim Crescent

Walk south through the crowds on Portobello Road until you hit an unassuming street called Blenheim Crescent— there you will find the perfect backdrop to some leisurely browsing.

Upon turning onto the street, you may be greeted by the fragrant, punchy aromas wafting out of the Spice Shop, and this is just all the more reason to stop in. Offering a collection of over 2,000 spices and ingredients from around the world, the Spice Shop is an excellent space for the curious home cook to explore.

If you’re in need of some inspiration before any spice shopping, Books for Cooks is next door. I have to say, this is one of my favourite shops in London. I could easily spend hours here browsing through all the cookbooks and finding inspiration in the recipes and imagery. If you’re lucky, the test kitchen in the back will be busy and the store will be filled with the scents of whatever delights are being trialed.

If novels and non-fiction are more your speed, further down the road is the famous Notting Hill Bookshop. Independent and a perfect photo opportunity for tourists and rom-com fans alike, the bookshop is charming. I personally love their blind date with a book offerings and find they make an excellent gift for the readers in your life.

1 PM: Lunch at Akub

Moving away from the hustle and bustle of Portobello Road Market, walk down quieter Kensington Park Road towards Akub, a Palestinian eatery with both a weekend brunch menu and à la carte options. Offering colourful and flavourful small plates, our table was packed when we went for the brunch service. We ended up ordering doubles of the za’atar bread and I still think often about the chewy, tangy Nabulsi cheese served with contrasting crushed nigella seeds.

Akub on Instagram

27 Uxbridge St, London W8 7TQ

4 PM: Walk through Kensington Gardens and A Visit to Serpentine Gallery

A leisurely stroll after a delicious meal makes for the best dessert. I would take my time and meander towards Serpentine Gallery, a powerhouse of contemporary art since the 1970s. Spread across three spaces, Serpentine South, Serpentine North and the Pavillion, all installations and exhibitions are free. Take your time to explore each gallery or hone in on an exhibition of your choosing.

Serpentine Gallery on Instagram

7 PM: Drinks and Small Plates at Sol’s

Once you make your way out of the park, walk over to nearby Bayswater and find Sol’s on a quiet street. The inside is narrow, so try to nab a table out front if you can. Specialising in low-intervention European wine, pair a bottle with my personal preferred apertivo snack, Marcona almonds fried in olive oil and seasoned generously with flaky sea salt. I would also be eyeing their anchovies, which come with an ample serving of olive oil, chili and fresh lemon.

Small plates aside, Sol’s also boasts a deli selling fresh sandwiches and pantry staples.

Sol's on Instagram

5 Leinster Terrace, London W2 3ET

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For something sweet: Pasticceria Artale

Located in the main strip of Ortigia, you’ll find Pasticceria Artale, a traditional Sicilian pastry shop brimming with local sweet staples.

It is my personal recommendation to try as many pistachio products as humanly possible during a trip to Sicily. We ordered two Sicilian classics— the first a cannolo filled with sweet ricotta cream sprinkled with pistachio pieces. The second, the Italian equivalent of a brioche à tête filled generously with the richest, creamiest pistachio gelato.

If it’s your first time in Sicily, this is also the perfect place to try the traditional and beloved cassata, a liqueur-soaked sponge and ricotta filled cake dressed with bright green marzipan and candied fruits. Locals and food historians agree that this Sicilian favourite owes its origins to the centuries of Arab conquest, serving as one of the numerous examples of external cultural influence which in turn became something intrinsic to Sicilian heritage.

Pasticceria Artale on Instagram

Via Saverio Landolina, 32, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For cocktails: BOATS

There are few bars more scenic than BOATS.

Located on a narrow street in Ortigia, BOATS offers an unbeatable view of the Temple of Apollo ruins from the 6th century BC. After one visit, you will quickly realise how well acquainted the clients are with the staff showcasing excellent care and hospitality. Our server was extremely friendly and offered us his recommendations from the extensive cocktail list. Each drink we sampled was carefully crafted and well balanced, so we kept coming back for more.

I would recommend coming here towards the end of your night, when the ruins are illuminated, sitting outside and chatting to the tables around you.

BOATS on Instagram

Via dell'Apollonion, 5, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For more cocktails: Cortile Verga

Cortile Verga is possibly the most romantic spot on this list.

Located inside the courtyard of a historic building, the furnishings are simple, elegant and sophisticated. We came for one drink and instantly regretted not allotting more time to enjoying the beautiful space. Don’t make the same mistake, carve out an evening to embrace the charm, and maybe even stay for dinner.

Cortile Verga on Instagram

Via della Maestranza, 33, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For lunch: Casa Trimarchi

We stumbled upon Casa Trimarchi unexpectedly and it was an extremely lucky find.

Tucked away on a peaceful side street, you’ll find a restaurant serving locally sourced ingredients straight from the owner’s farm. Seasonality and freshness are key here and we were fortunate enough to visit at the start of tomato season.

We started with beautifully prepared caponata, a local delight made of aubergine, tomatoes and many other vegetables. No two caponate are the same, and you will quickly realise every restaurant and every Sicilian has a strong opinion on how it is supposed to be made. I enjoy versions with sweet sultanas added, another nod to the Arab influence of the island. We also ordered parmigiana di melanzane paired with glasses of light-bodied red wine.

For the pasta course, a Puglian classic graced our table— freshly made orecchiette, bursting cherry tomatoes, briny olives, salty capers and tonnes and tonnes of oregano.

Casa Trimarchi on Instagram

Via Laberinto, 1-3-5, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For arancini: Antica Giudecca

These beloved rice balls go by many names— supplì in Lazio, arancine in Western Sicily and arancini in the eastern part of the island. Regardless of how they’re known, they must be mentioned and appreciated.

Located in Ortigia’s Jewish quarter, Antica Giudecca is a hidden gem, a hole in the wall known locally for serving the best arancini in town. For €2 in cash, you can have a giant, cheesy and delicious arancino all to yourself. We opted for two flavours— a freshly made spinach-filled delight, and an indulgent tomato and mozzarella.

Antica Giudecca on Instagram

Via della Giudecca, 26, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For dinner: Ristorante Retroscena

On our last night, I was admittedly being a bit of a pain. I wanted to have the perfect last meal but the pizzeria I selected was closed unexpectedly. We walked by numerous restaurants as I checked each menu, peeked at each table’s orders and judged each interior.

I was beginning to think we had gone too far and would have better luck turning back on ourselves when I spotted Ristorante Retroscena and we were greeted warmly by one of the owners. She diligently explained each item on the menu to us, offered wine pairings and sent over little nibbles while we deliberated. What sealed the deal for me was a gorgonzola and pear pasta and a glass of a local white wine, light in colour but heavy on the minerals.

In Italian, there’s a saying, “al contadino non fare sapere quant’è buono il formaggio con le pere,” which translates to “don’t let the farmer know how well cheese goes with pear.” I’m very glad I know.

Ristorante Retroscena on Instagram

Via della Maestranza, 108, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For a market visit: Mercato di Ortigia and Fratelli Burgio

If you’re anything like me, you love visiting markets and supermarkets when travelling. There’s something so wonderful in doing so quotidian and something so intimate in sampling local products direct from the producers.

Ortigia’s market boasts freshly caught seafood, in-season produce, local cheeses and meats, preserves and vinegars, herbs and spices, wines and liquors and just about any other local specialty there is. If you’re particularly keen to try local cured meats and cheeses, Fratelli Burgio is not to be missed.

Fratelli Burgio on Instagram

Piazza Cesare Battisti, 4, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For an evening performance: Fondazione Instituto Nationale Dramma Antico (INDA)

Dedicated to maintaining the cultural heritage of the city, Fondazione INDA offers the unique experience of seeing a production of a Greek tragedy in a partially restored Greek amphitheatre. While the plays may be ancient, the cast delivers their performances in modern Italian with translating audio guides available for €5 in cash. This was how I spent my birthday a few years ago, and I don’t think I’d be able to replicate it anywhere else.

Fondazione INDA on Instagram

Via Luigi Bernabò Brea, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy

For a day trip: Noto

For fans of the Baroque (or The White Lotus), a trip to Noto, a UNESCO heritage site, is a must whilst in the region. A 45-minute bus journey from Siracusa Centrale transports you from beachy Ortigia more in-land to the golden, limestone streets of Noto. Cattedrale di San Nicolò looms over the city and is an excellent landmark to explore if you need a break from the Sicilian heat before popping into Caffè Sicilia for granita or gelato.

Caffe Sicilia on Instagram

Corso V. Emanuele, 125, 96017 Noto SR, Italy

Ciao for now!

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After a visit to the ever busy British Museum next door, tucked away on a quiet square in Holborn, St. JOHN’s latest edition offers a corner of peace away from the bustling streets of central London. Inside, visitors are greeted with the smell of freshly brewed coffee, the hum of quiet conversations and newly purchased books being opened for the first time.

As you walk to the counter, effortless rows of donuts, buns and distinctly British spiced Eccles cakes freshly baked for the day await purchasing. To the right, a list of coffee and hot drinks available to warm you after braving the changing British weather sits above a busy espresso machine. To the left, a stylish display of St. JOHN’s iconic wines is placed next to blackboards outlining today’s food offerings in chalk writing.

I personally go for the cheese and chutney sandwich to go when I pop in— salty, sharp slices of matured cheddar layered with a chutney balancing sweet and spiced perfectly, on thickly sliced and comforting buttered white bread. Wrapped in their signature pig-ladened parchment paper and sliced in half, it makes for a simple but effective lunch on the go.

Otherwise, grab a table, and maybe a glass of claret, and enjoy.

St. JOHN on Instagram
14–16 Bury Place, London, WC1A 2JL

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We’ve all heard the horror stories (and lived it a few times) of traveling with a friend who you are misaligned with when it comes to planning, priorities and pace.

I am lucky enough that my travel companion and I have never and likely will never have these issues. For the past few years, I’ve been traveling with my best friend, Anissa. Both dedicated to maximising our stays, we each do ample research and bring forward all our finds. Anissa finds the best shopping and I find the best restaurants and together, we plan a legendary girls’ trip each time.

Normally, planning results in a shared, colour coordinated note in the Notes app and a shared Spotify playlist with a terrible, clichéd themed name. Our trip to Copenhagen marked our second city break together— you’ll find some of our favour finds here.

To stay: 25hours Hotel, Indre By

Located in the convenient Indre By neighbourhood, 25h made for the perfect launchpad for our trip.

Bright, colourful and unmistakably Danish in design, playful details are central to a stay at 25h. The bar housed on the ground floor boasts excellent cocktails under pterodactyls suspended from the ceiling, your room is lovingly made up with an owl plushie waiting for you on the bed and the minibar is fully stocked and fully free for guests. We found out quickly that no two lifts were the same theme and when entering our suite, we found spacious, cheerful and comfortable room awaiting us. We can also confirm the Scandi sleep method is alive and well here.

25hours Hotel Copenhagen on Instagram

Pilestræde 65, 1112 København, Denmark

For a caffeine fix: La Cabra in Another Aspect

After our travels, we were in need of a caffeine fix and stumbled upon nearby La Cabra, a minimalist café situated inside the Another Aspect store. Warm woods and clean, linear designs maintained the cool, calm energy of the store. On our first visit, we both ordered iced matcha lattes. I still think about this latte to this day. The matcha was strong, floral and addictive. I firmly believe a sip could convert any matcha skeptic.

We ended up stopping by again and again throughout the week and had a browse in the Another Aspect side of the store. The menswear designs were clean and intentional offering a range of ultra-soft t-shirts, hats and more.

La Cabra on Instagram

Møntergade 3A, 1116 København, Denmark

For Danish breakfast: Bottega Barlie

When we were planning our trip, we did not account for one thing— a marathon held the same weekend cutting straight through town. The energy was very fun, lots of people gathered outside playing music and cheering on their friends and family. We walked along the marathon route trying to find a way to cut through the runners when possible.

In our quest for breakfast, we originally had three spots in mind— Apotek 57, Atelier September and Bottega Barlie. Luckily for us, all three spots are within 5 minutes of each other right on the marathon path. We investigated how long the queues were at each and ended up dining inside at a shared table in Bottega Barlie.

The restaurant felt convivial— everyone was friendly and laidback. We opted for a classic Danish breakfast plate boasting pieces of sourdough, salty and thin slices of a Danish hard cheese, a smear of softened, fatty butter and soft-boiled eggs sat in silver egg cups waiting to be cracked open and devoured. We also ordered two bowls of their yogurt with house-made granola and tangy, seasonal rhubarb compote.

Bottega Barlie on Instagram

Fredericiagade 78, 1310 København, Denmark

For a bakery pit stop: Hart Bageri

On a sunny afternoon, we walked over to explore Freetown Christiania, then to Refshaleøen, a formerly industrial neighbourhood, to do some shopping. Ganni Postmodern, the discounted archival output of the famous Danish brand, and Ferm Living, a personal favourite of mine, were both on the way.

After we finished our browsing, we were in need of a sugar hit and were happy to see Hart Bageri had a shop nearby. We placed our orders and sat outside enjoying the sunshine and tranquil waters around us. We settled on two pastries— a spandauer, laminated dough with a rich, custardy pastry cream baked in the centre, and a tebirkes, a Danish pastry which resembled the shape of a pain au chocolat, but was filled with marzipan and topped with a layer of poppy seeds.

Hart Bageri on Instagram

Refshalevej 159A, 1432 København, Denmark

For a pizza fix: Baest

Baest caught our attention with their pillowy, soft crusts.

Operating as a certified-organic pizzeria championing ingredient traceability with a salumeria and dairy production on-site, the quality and richness of each pizza was impressive.

For our lunchtime visit, we ordered two of their wood-fired pizzas: the margherita, which arrived at the table covered in fresh basil and lashings of parmesan, and the mushroom pizza, accompanied by lightly smoked mozzarella, creamy stracciatella and picked thyme leaves. A flavourful and indulgent lunch which fueled us to explore more of Nørrebro.

Baest on Instagram

Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København, Denmark

For counter service: Apollo bar

I think we can both agree that Apollo bar was one of the meals we were most excited for. We came exceedingly overdressed for this meal after overestimating its size and pace.

Inside the courtyard of the Royal Danish Academy of Art sits a tiny wine bar delivering small plates but big flavour. We sat at the counter overlooking the chefs at work, everything prepped and ready working in impressively small stations.

When I think about what we ate in Copenhagen, two dishes from this meal immediately come to mind: a carefully constructed red radicchio salad, each leaf dressed in a black garlic and hibiscus dressing, then placed back into the shape of a whole radicchio, and a simple plate of jammy, medium boiled eggs covered in a thin tahini sauce and topped with a bright, fiery chili oil. We ordered a second order of the eggs and washed the meal down with glasses of tangy orange wine.

Apollo Bar on Instagram

Nyhavn 2, 1051 København, Denmark

For a wine stop: Nebbiolo winebar

We were looking for a place to sit and have a few glasses of wine before a late dinner reservation one night and spotted a peculiar basement wine bar.

Intrigued, we snagged the last free table out front. We ordered glasses of wine and enjoyed the pleasures of people watching as chic Danes strolled by. Cosy, relaxed and served by helpful staff, we started our evening off right.

Nebbiolo winebar on Instagram

Store Strandstræde 18, 1255 København, Denmark

For cocktails: Duck and Cover

Noted for its seasonal menu prioritising Danish ingredients and flavours as well as its dark, chic Scandi interiors, Duck and Cover was on our hit list but we unfortunately did not find the time on this visit. It comes well recommended by other means, after nabbing many prestigious titles over the years, including Best Bar and Best Menu at the Bartender's Choice Awards in 2017.

Duck and cover on Instagram

Dannebrogsgade 6, 1660 København, Denmark

To visit: Designmuseum Danmark

A visit to such a design-centric city without a trip to the Designmuseum would be criminal. Recently renovated and blending its original collection of both Danish and international origin with contemporary issues addressed in temporary exhibitions, Designmuseum offers a bit of everything.

We spent the afternoon sheltering from the rain surrounded by the evolution of chairs, opulent silverware, a temporary Japanese print exhibition and an interactive space responding to questions of material and textile production.

A visit to a museum gift shop is a must do for many museum goers, but this one felt different. Curated, thoughtful and independently minded, you can shop contemporary ceramicists, artful prints and traditional museum souvenirs all in one place.

Designmuseum Danmark on Instagram

Bredgade 68, 1260 København K, Denmark

To do: La Banchina

La banchina represents Copenhagen at its finest, blending sustainable practices, locally sourced ingredients and an on-site sauna.

Booking the sauna well in advance is essential as it fills up quick. The restaurant, cafe and wine bar are walk-in only so dedicate at least half a day if possible to eat fresh seafood and enjoy a private sauna session.

La Banchina on Instagram

Refshalevej 141, 1432 København, Denmark

For interior design lovers: HAY house

It’s difficult to think of contemporary Danish design without thinking of HAY. An online favourite, HAY has solidified itself as a fixture on the design scene in recent years for its iconic sleek and colour-forward designs.

HAY’s designs fill HAY house, their sprawling flagship store in Indre By. Situated across two floors, you get the unique experience of seeing their numerous products, furnishings and furniture pieces which oftentimes aren’t as easily accessible outside of Denmark.

HAY on Instagram

Østergade 61, 2, 1100 København, Denmark

To shop: A few highlights

• Ferm Living Ferm Living on Instagram

• Kyoto Kyoto on Instagram

• ANOTHER Nué ANOTHER Nué on Instagram

• Ganni Postmodern Ganni on Instagram

• Mr. Larkin Mr. Larkin on Instagram

• Collector's Cage Collector's Cage on Instagram

• Studio Arhoj Studio Arhoj on Instagram

• Sui Ava Sui Ava on Instagram

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For a caffeine fix: The Good Mews

Follow the sounds of friends catching up, bike bells struck and the scent of fresh coffee to a little green café tucked off the main road. Inside you’ll find a glass display filled with pastries, sandwiches stuffed into sourdough slices and focaccias and other delicious baked goods. The Good Mews also boasts an extensive drinks menu, ranging from specialty coffees to an ever-popular matcha latte.

The back of the café offers a carefully curated array of goods perfect for browsing while you wait for your drink. But the real beauty is outside (if British weather permits). The café becomes a sun trap with a few tables out front and some more seats around the side.

The Good Mews on Instagram

230A Kentish Town Rd, London NW5 2AB

For a carb fix: Kossoff’s

Back on the main stretch, across the way sits Kossoff’s, an artisanal bakery at the heart of Kentish Town. Don’t be surprised if the queue is out the door on the weekends, Kossoff’s offers an exceptional array of classic baked goods, like almond croissants and Pain Suisse, and a feast of salads and sandwiches available for both eat in and takeaway.

Delicious, fresh and reliably good, Kossoff’s is not to be missed if you’re in the area and looking for something to nibble on.

Kossoff's on Instagram

259 Kentish Town Rd, London, United Kingdom NW5 2JT

For a wine fix: Half Cut Market

Tucked away on York Road sits a small but mighty, wine-forward small plates restaurant. Half Cut Market boosts reliably sourced meats and fish, an ample wine list and seasonal rotations to change up before your next visit. The space is intimate and the staff are friendly and attentive. In warmer weather, their terrace makes for an excellent backdrop for a girls’ night or a date. This past April, there was even a deal on for a £5 glass of rosé whenever the temperate reached 16 degrees celsius.

Be sure to book in advance as spaces do fill up quickly, and rightfully so.

Half Cut Market on Instagram

396 York Way, London, United Kingdom N7 9LW

For a cocktail break: Tabac

Intimate, dimly lit and oh-so-délicieux.

Stepping into Tabac feels like stumbling into a local hidden gem. Situated in a former tobacconist shop, the space honours both its on-site heritage as well as its French patronage with its sibling restaurant Patron, Cave à Manger a stones’s throw away. French music plays softly, French signage decorates the walls and French spirits shine on the menu. The team at Tabac are highly skilled, with an expansive menu offering something for everyone before any questions about bespoke offerings are asked. Classic cocktails as well as house specials are well represented here, and the wine list does not miss either.

Oh, and there’s a happy hour.

Tabac on Instagram

16 Fortess Rd, London NW5 2EU

For a top-notch meal: The Parakeet

Anyone who knows me, knows I rank the Parakeet at the top of my London food recommendations. There is just so much to say about the excellent dishes crafted in their kitchen. My first visit to the Parakeet stunned me, from the beautiful stained glass trickling in patches of light over the diners, to the artwork lining the walls in both the dining room and pub, to the cosy and familiar leather seats…and this was all before the meal.

I simply must say there has not been a single miss from any item I’ve tried. While their menu also changes, some dishes remain year round and must not be missed. The sea bream brushed with dashi and grilled to perfection served with a peppery piperade, the famous leeks drenched in pecorino and black pepper, a humble chicken option on their Sunday roast which is prepared with the Parakeet twist of smoking it with hay.

While the food is exceptional, the whole experience comes together to make it a great visit each time. Come a few times and the staff will remember you. Wait by the bar and the bartender will ask how your day’s going and recommend their favourite drink. There is an excellent happy hour offer on Mondays, so you might as well listen to them, although I rarely stray from the ginger margarita garnished with a fat piece of candied ginger. It is the local spot I will take people to again and again to showcase an incredible meal.

The Parakeet on Instagram

256 Kentish Town Rd, London NW5 2AA

For something different: Belly

Another restaurant making local waves, Belly blends Filipino flavours and French cooking methods. The restaurant oozes refinement and restraint done right. With a carefully curated menu, some dishes, like their tempura cod pandesal, have gone viral and grabbed the attention of the Michelin Guide within its first year.

I personally have my eye on the steak tartare and seafood caldereta.

Belly on Instagram

157 Kentish Town Rd, London NW1 8PD

For home cooks: Phoenicia Food Hall

My friends know I notoriously stop into Phoenicia for one item and without fail, I come out with five.

Established in a massive shop on the high street, shopping here feels like a rummaging through treasure trove of flavour. Any ingredient or spice I know I would have difficulty locating in a high-street supermarket, I can find without a doubt here.

I spend the majority of my time past the butchers, in the backroom with the olive bar. My go-to combination is a scoop of the sliced green olives in harissa, a scoop of the green olives with preserved lemon and cumin seeds, a scoop of garlic stuffed olives, a scoop of almond stuffed olives and a scoop of the hot chilli olives. This is the combination I bring to dinner parties and it is always requested again and again.

186, 192 Kentish Town Rd, London NW5 2AE

Appetite Archive

Neighbourhood Guides: Tufnell Park

Based on my previous neighbourhood guide, you may have figured out I love Northwest London. I love the beautiful parks, the friendly locals, the beautiful historic houses making up Hampstead and Highgate. When I first moved to London, I lived in West London, then moved to Camden for about three years, followed by a brief stint in East, before returning …

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21 days ago · 2 likes · Ally

Buy me a coffee

Years later, each memory still starts with the smell of fat and a loud sizzle.

I remember my mother panicking around the kitchen trying to cut as many corners as possible. I remember the dark oak 12-seater dining table being decked out with opulent cutlery, lavish placemats and large platters taking centre stage. I remember the bags and bags of groceries my Jewish father would bring home and carefully group for ease when the cooking began. The glistening stainless steel pots and pans shiny and begging to be used waiting patiently on the stove. This was how every Christmas would start, with attentive precision and selection.

And it would quickly be derailed by the arrival of my Italian grandparents.

My parents’ carefully curated meal which took hours of thought and preparation would suddenly be accompanied by unexpected vats of pastas and seafood and sides. Oftentimes there would be duplicates. Oftentimes these would result in a power struggle. Every time it would result in leftovers for the neighbours.

Years later, I find myself in a Paris in the local boulangerie below my first apartment. The memory of fat remains, but has a different backdrop.

I am now 18 and navigating visas, new local customs and a second language. Standing in the queue practicing my lines in my head nervous about annunciation, pronunciation and sentence structure. Every person ahead of me has their orders mastered, the line moves efficiently and I’m suddenly next.

I look at the counter of buttery, golden pastries. I expect to leave with a croissant or a pain au chocolat, but in front of me I see an item which calls to me— a soft, pillowy brioche dotted with dark chocolate chips. I must have it. I take my first bite on the street walking to the metro with the butter seeping through the paper bag onto my fingers. It’s chewy, it’s decedent, it’ll become a go-to order for the next year.

At the time, I did not realise how influential my time in Paris would be. I would spend the next four years winding down cobblestone streets, mornings in empty museums with my art history classes, taking the cheapest, earliest flight out to maximise my weekend abroad, and having conversations with new, lifelong friends from afar about their cultures, arts and foods.

While I am now in London and get to speak my native tongue, I cannot shake the French. I spend my weekdays at my desk surrounded by cookbooks, French chefs, culinary students and more smells and sounds than I could have imagined.

The chefs bring me samples, the students share their products and we are all bound by the same curiosities and inspirations. I am fortunate. I get to do what I love for a living, and now I’d like to share that more.

My name’s Ally. Let’s grab a coffee.

Buy me a coffee