Our co-hikers, the U.S. Navy colonel and his wife, joined us. An assistant guide and another crew member accompanied us as well. The cook’s 19-year-old son and our assistant carried our bags, making it look easy to carry those heavy duffel bags, while cows walked along with the group. We, however, carried our own backpacks! Ashwin joined the rest of the group heading toward Thame. We would meet them in Namche the next day.

We climbed a small hill and then descended about 1,500 feet to reach Namche, where we had a leisurely late lunch with the colonel and his wife. In the afternoon, Usha and I strolled through the colorful lanes of Namche.

Colorfull Namche

Day 9: Museum:

There is a short, thirty-minute hike to a museum in Sagarmatha National Park near Namche Bazaar. The visit was worthwhile, thanks to our guide, who suggested it. Everest expeditions are chronicled in the museum, and there are fascinating pictures from the past. The weather was clear in the mountains, and the sun was shining. Sagarmatha [29,035’], Nuptse [25,790’], Lhotse [27,605’], and Ama Dablam [22,493’], legendary Himalayan peaks, stood in front of us like sages.

Sagarmatha National park is treasure of fascinating information

A full-size statue of Tenzing stood against this backdrop. His monument displayed several plaques with illustrations of his achievements and quotes. We took time to read each one of them in awe. He was the first Sherpa to set foot on Mount Everest. Even though he would not have accomplished that feat without Edmund Hillary’s resources and support, he played a significant role. Tenzing had been living in Darjeeling, India, even before he climbed Mount Everest. He continued to live in India and became a valuable resource to other climbers.

Tenzing Norgay: 1914 -1986

There was an interesting and exciting encounter on the trail. A young, slim Indian woman approached me and introduced herself as Anita Kundu from Haryana, the first woman from India to successfully summit Everest twice—from both the Nepal and Chinese sides, each with its own unique challenges and death traps. The daughter of a poor Jat farmer, she had been fascinated by adventure since childhood. This time, she was leading an expedition of her own.

Later, I learned that Anita had succeeded in climbing Everest again. I am not sure if all her team members made it back home. I watched an impressive interview Anita Kundu gave to the Indian media, during which I thought she made an indirect remark about losing some teammates. Over three hundred hikers from all over the world, in their quest to set foot on the tallest mountain, have left their mortal remains behind in the inaccessible parts of the Himalayas.

Anita Kundu, Indian climber to the Everest

Khumjung is at a 12,700-foot elevation, surrounded by tall mountains on three sides, and is an unbelievably beautiful place. The name ‘Khumjung’ itself appropriately means ‘Heaven on Earth!’ All the houses have green roofs, and the windows look pretty. When we entered the village, we saw a few children with round faces and wide chests playing together. Sir Edmund Hillary, along with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, summited Everest in 1953 for the first time in history. Hillary is next to God in this area. As a token of his gratitude, he used his celebrity status to establish a school, a hospital, and running water for this area. There is a half-bust of Hillary on the school premises, and several of his pictures are mounted on the walls of the tearoom. Sherpas are an ethnic group and majority are Buddhists while some follow Hindu faith.

Bust of Edmund Hillary: First to set foot on Everest with Tenzing, Nepali sherpa

Photograph credits: Ashwin Salvi photography

Khumjung Monastery hosts a relic believed to be the scalp a Yeti, the legendary Himalayan mountain man. Kept behind a locked glass door, it looks unbelievably clean—as if groomed in a high-end salon! Sir Edmund Hillary was instrumental in securing it, and the local Sherpas absolutely believe it to be real.

Yeti: Mountain man

Talking about the Yeti: Some time after I had met the Indian Everest climber, as I was focused on my steps, trying to negotiate between yak poop and a slippery rock on a particularly muddy section of the trail, I was hailed by a bearded, middle-aged guy and his two companions. They wanted to know where I was headed, and they were curious about my age. The scenario repeated itself again, to the utter amusement of Ashwin! I realized that not shaving for several days must have produced an abundant growth of white facial hair, and everyone wanted to make sure they weren’t looking at the ‘Yeti,’ the elusive Himalayan mountain man!

Usha entered her sleeping bag without dinner. Her appetite had dwindled. I gave her a woolen hat, covered her with a heavy blanket, and left a packet of banana chips within her reach. When I returned from dinner, she was slightly propped up in bed, her hat pulled over her forehead, munching slowly on chips with her eyes closed in a meager attempt to get some nourishment. In ordinary circumstances, it would have been a very comical picture. Flirting at a 13,000-foot elevation with her oxygen saturation at 83%, it was not a laughing matter, even though we were taking Diamox for high altitude. I was also carrying steroids in case they were needed. [Hospital patients receive supplemental oxygen if saturation falls to 90%.] That nutrition was definitely not adequate for the next day’s six-to-seven-hour hike.

Khumjung: Heaven on Earth

Hiking to Tengboche involved an initial ascent of over 300 feet, a knee-jarring descent of about 1,700 feet, crossing a suspension bridge, and a steep ascent of 2,005 feet, requiring us to stop to catch our breath every few steps.

Every step is a struggle at high altitude

Photographs credit: Ashwin Salvi photography

We had our dinner in the heated dining hall of the tea room, the only area with heat, produced by burning yak dung. The next day, we would leave the base camp trail and go to the less-traveled village called Khumjung. Most other trekkers in the dining room would head to base camp, and some would proceed to summit Everest. We did not know this at the time, but a week after we reached home, there was overcrowding at the higher elevation, and the mountain claimed several lives.

Tengboche has the oldest monastery above 12,000 feet in elevation.

Monastery at 12,687 feet elevation

On a clear day, all the mountains can be seen clearly. This was not one of those days. There was cloud cover. Ashwin and Jamal ventured out late at night and enjoyed a brief photography session under the starry sky.

Starry night

Trail to ‘Everest view hotel.’

The lodge in Namche had a hot shower! But it was only on request for few minutes. Still there was no heat in the rooms, just in the dining hall. Cows carrying the luggage had rest day. Accompaning sherpas still prepared food but had a light day.

It was bitter cold in the morning, but soon we had to shed layers as to cool down, as climbing became strenuous. The weather turned out to be very clear and Mount Everest, with its iconic image of blowing snow and other peaks came in view as we turned at the bend. It was a ‘wow’ moment not just for the view: it was a culmination of months of planning, preparation, anticipation and excitement! Himalaya is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists and is featured prominently in ancient scriptures. Poets, writers and painters are fascinated with this mountain range for centuries. As I mulled over these thoughts, spectacular Ama Dublam peak stood overlooking us, at an arms distance. Several members of Everest expedition stay here to acclimatize. They are catered by a restaurant. We sat in the sun, enjoying the view and coffee!

Everest on the left: looks smaller as it is farther. Ama Dablam on the right.

Photographs credit: Ashwin Salvi photography

Nights at this height are bitter cold. Rooms are not heated. In Namche, our crew gave us hot water bottles after dinner, to keep inside the sleeping bag to keep warm. I slept in with dawn jacket, gloves and woolen hat and covered the sleeping bag with a heavy blanket to get comfortable.

Everest on left with its iconic blowing snow

Photographs: Ashwin Salvi photography

It was a bright day. Ashwin and John had stepped out early in the morning to capture the sunrise. Phakding displayed colorful prayer flags everywhere, and the windows of the houses looked pretty in their multiple colors. The place was dotted with small monasteries with prayer wheels.

The hike to Namche Bazaar was grueling! Over three thousand feet of elevation gain took the breath away! Hiking in the Himalayas was very different from anywhere else we had experienced. On this particular segment, there were seven sturdy hanging bridges to cross over the Dudh Koshi River. The first bridge was immediately after we stepped out of the hotel. Every time, the trail descended for hundreds of feet to cross the bridge and ascended again, just to get to the next bridge.

Views from the hanging bridges are spectacular

Usha and I always finished last. Ashwin and our guide always remained with us. Jim and his wiry wife consistently led the group. They had trained by going up and down the stairs of the lighthouse.

Along the trail, prayer flags fluttered in the air from suspension bridges, trees, buildings, and rocks high up in the mountains, making the trails look really festive. Prayer wheels, small and sometimes massive, were scattered along the trail. Devotees turned them clockwise, chanting, “Om Ma-ni Pad-me Hum,” a Buddhist prayer written in Sanskrit, as the wheels produced a rhythmic tinkling sound. Mountains must be a unifying natural force, as I observed many trekkers following the ritual of turning the preyer wheels, regardless of their religious faith.

Massive preyer wheels

We took a break for lunch in a picturesque tiny village called ‘Monju.’ ‘Sagarmatha National Park’ started soon after we left the village. On clear days, Mt. Everest can be seen from a viewpoint, but today the mountain was engulfed by clouds. ‘Everest’ was named after a British surveyor general in 1856. Tibetans believed that the Goddess ‘Chomolungma’ resided there and named the towering mountain after her. Nepalese called it ‘Sagarmatha.’ It means ‘Peak of Heaven!’ in Sanskrit. A fitting description of the world’s tallest mountain.

Years back, Namche, the world’s highest marketplace, used to be the base camp for trekkers. They acclimatized to the high altitude here for a few days, restocked their supplies, and used this place to launch Everest expeditions. Tibetans came here every week to trade. When Namche became busy with visitors and turned commercial, the base camp was moved higher up to its present location.

Colorful Namche Bazaar: Previous base camp

Namche is nestled on the side of the mountain and surrounded by peaks, which include Kwangde, Thamserku, and Kangtega, all more than 20,000 feet high. Going from one place to another involves steep stairs up and down. Rooftops are bright and colorful, and prayer flags are everywhere. Narrow lanes are lined with small shops selling everything needed by trekkers. This is the last place to stock up on everything, at 11,300 feet, for the rest of the adventure

Thamserku Mountain

Yaks, horses, donkeys and cows carry most of the goods up the mountains

Apparently, travel plans had changed. Instead of a small plane, we were to ride in a helicopter. There were five choppers lined up on the field against the partly cloudy sky. Our escort pointed to one of the helicopters and said, “That was supposed to be your ride, but it has some mechanical problem. Instead, you will fly in that one,” and pointed to the one on the extreme right.

Ride to the most dangerous airport: Lukla

“Your pilot is a foreigner,” she added in a conspiratorial tone, as we noticed a tall, slim young gentleman fidgeting with the rotors. As we boarded the chopper, Maisa, who was closest to the pilot, wished him good morning. The pilot did not look up or return her gesture. Not then or anytime afterward. He flew the machine expertly over the hilly area and between the cliffs. I could feel the engine working a little harder as we passed over taller peaks. Scattered houses and other structures, with no proper road access, only connected by zigzag dirt trails for foot traffic, passed below us.

All photo credits: Ashwin Salvi photography

Lukla Airport, at 9,383 feet elevation, has the reputation of being one of the most dangerous airports in the world. It has one runway with an upward slope, and only small planes and helicopters can land there. Just two days prior to our travel, a small plane had crashed during takeoff, resulting in three fatalities. The wreckage of the crashed plane was still visible by the side of the narrow runway. That was a little unsettling.

Deep valley before the take off

We were received by our guide and several porters who stayed with us for the next ten days, until the end of our trip. They took us to the lounge of the hotel, where we would be staying at the end of the adventure, and served us breakfast. As the crew loaded our bags on the animals for transport, we watched small aircraft and helicopters landing and taking off on a small strip, barely one hundred feet from us. Planes landed at periodic intervals and roared as they climbed the slope. Takeoff was just as spectacular, as the aircraft lifted into the air just a few feet from a deep valley

Hotel in Lukla: not far from the strip

On our first real hiking day, we lost about 1,000 feet of elevation on the way to Phakding, along the Dudh Koshi River with its blue-green glacial water. Yaks, cows, horses, and donkeys carrying supplies and gear for trekkers high up in the mountains shared the trail. Nepalese Sherpas also carried heavy loads on their backs. Sometimes those loads looked the size of a small bathroom, and I wondered how they balanced them on a suspension bridge when most others had difficulty walking with only a backpack

Rocky terrain

As we approached Phakding, clouds became darker, and rain fell in sheets. The last-minute decision to add rain covers for our backpacks turned out to be a wise decision.

Our room in the lodge in Phakding had wide windows facing the mountains. There was one common toilet and cold running water. The night was very cold due to the high elevation of about 8,563 feet. The Dudh Koshi River next to the lodge sang gently throughout the night.

Views on the way

Our body clocks woke Usha and me at three in the morning. The sky had cleared, and an almost full moon was hanging majestically over a tall, conical mountain, flooding the room with soft light. As the moon dipped further, it appeared to be resting on the top of the mountain. The rugged edge line of the mountain silhouette was shining like silver. Later, the sun came up on the opposite horizon and sprayed gold on the mountain tops.

The day of travel was filled with spring air, brightness, excitement, and apprehension. We had been preparing for months in anticipation of our Himalayan adventure. There were concerns about preparation, both physically and psychologically. Long walks and strenuous StairMaster sessions helped. Numerous searches for resources on the web and obsessively watching YouTube videos on hiking in the Himalayas were also educational. Shopping for the correct size and make of an efficient sleeping bag, and the challenging task of selecting the right-size duffel bag, were fun and anxiety-provoking at the same time. We kept giving each other tips about packing and exercise. It was a challenge to prepare for high altitude while living in the flatlands of Ohio! Ashwin gave us a few suggestions on exercises and ways to deal with shortness of breath when hiking at high altitude, where every step could be a struggle.

This was the time when the fleet of Boeing 737 MAX aircraft was grounded throughout the world due to mechanical issues, and cancellations were rampant. At the same time, repairs at Kathmandu Airport were causing additional concerns. Ultimately, though, everything worked out okay

Kathmandu in the background

Kathmandu Airport was chaotic, but the people sitting behind the desks were friendly and smiling. It took us about 30 minutes to reach the hotel, traveling through polluted and congested roads lined with shops on either side. The hotel was situated in the Thamel district, which is frequented by overseas travelers.

We headed out to explore on our own soon after checking into the hotel. The lanes were full of shops selling everything needed by trekkers and other visitors, mostly knockoffs of Nike, Patagonia, Columbia, Eddie Bauer, and the rest. Bargaining seemed to be the norm.

Pashupatinath is the largest temple complex in Kathmandu, on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River. It is also one of the seven UNESCO cultural heritage sites in Nepal. Built in the 5th century, this temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. We also strolled near the Bagmati River, whose banks are used for Hindu cremations.

Random devotee: Happy to pose for the picture!

All images Credit: Ashwin Salvi Photography

We strolled through the area until the rain forced us to head back to the hotel.

In the evening, we wanted to look for authentic local cuisine. Then we decided not to experiment with food in places that did not look clean and ended up returning to the hotel. That turned out to be a good decision, as we met most of our fellow hikers there—six fellow Americans and a young couple from Kuwait. It was the night before the official orientation for our adventure.

Day 2 : Kathmandu attractions

REI had arranged a guided tour of the ancient cities of the Kathmandu valley. An earthquake few years ago had damaged several ancient structures and temples. Bodhinath, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, was most impressive and unaffected by the quake. This stupa was built in 14th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

One of the numerous Temples

There was an orientation of the trip by the trip leader on the terrace of the hotel in the late afternoon. Orientations are necessary to get familiar with the terrain, itinerary, precautions to be taken and possible difficulties. He was candid and we all exchanged glances with apprehension as he reviewed the daily itinerary.

Two trekkers from the earlier batch had to be evacuated due to the injuries.

A ranch worker knocked on the dorm door at 5 a.m. for a wake-up call. A water pipe was broken, so there was no running water, but there was plenty of water in buckets. Brushing your teeth or taking a shower was optional! Breakfast was the same as the morning before: pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon, orange juice, peaches, and coffee.

It was chilly but perfect hiking weather, just like the previous two days. We dressed appropriately in layers. I had slept better the night before. The snorer in the top bunk had already hiked out, and there were fewer than ten men in the dorm. We hiked through the Phantom Ranch campground at 6:45 a.m. without making too much noise so as not to wake the campers. Some of them were already awake and nodded at us. The night before, we had visited Jack and Marie at their campsite for a chat. They were very eager to show us their camping gear. They were getting ready to hike out. Later, we met them on the trail and had lunch together.

Phantom ranch campsite

Our return hike was via the Bright Angel Trail. It was two miles longer and better maintained. We crossed the Silver foot Bridge and hiked along the river for 2.5 miles in one hour. There were a few hundred feet of elevation gain, followed by a descent and then another climb. It was a beautiful morning, and the canyon walls were just starting to glow with the first rays of the sun. Zoroaster Peak caught the first light. Zoroastrians worship fire, and the peak glowed red as if it were on fire! Soon we generated enough heat and took off our outer layers. There was a restroom break, and it was already snack time!

First snack break

Indian Garden Campground was two miles away. We had to hike through the Devil’s Corkscrew switchbacks to get there. True to its name, the hike was strenuous. The Indian Garden area was lush and green. The cottonwood leaves had turned yellow. There were plenty of berry shrubs, and a stream ran alongside the trail year-round. Suddenly it became very cold, and we had to put all our layers back on. We replenished our water supply, took a short break, had another snack, and headed for the Three-Mile mark.

Now the ascent was steep. It took one and a half hours to hike one and a half miles and gain 1,000 feet of elevation. We crossed several creeks and streams. Hikers coming down the trail politely waited for us to pass so we would not lose our pace. Trail etiquette. Sometimes we stopped to chat, exchanged tips, alerted each other about trail conditions, and encouraged one another. We also learned that mule trains had the right-of-way. As the mules approached, we clung to the canyon wall and did nothing to spook them.

At the Three-Mile mark, Mike prepared lunch: chili with wild rice, dried vegetables, and chicken. He set his stove on the edge of the cliff. Our view had widened. Mountains looked spectacular as they had turned brown and red. Buddha Temple was still behind our backs. Food was plentiful, and we offered it to other hikers.

Lunch being made on the side of the cliff

There were still three miles and 2,000 feet of elevation to cover! There was another rest area at the one-and-a-Half-Mile mark.

The last one and a half miles were covered with snow and packed ice. It was time to put on our shoe crampons to make our footing a little firmer. The higher altitude certainly added to the difficulty. While coming down the South Kaibab Trail, our legs had become wobbly. Now it felt as though there were bricks in our shoes! Usha thought she could not make the last two hundred feet of elevation. But she knew hiking down had been optional; hiking up was mandatory. So, one step at a time.

Suddenly there was noise from the rim. Then a whistle. We looked up and saw silhouettes. They were waving at us. Couple of our co-hikers! Even though they had reached the rim well ahead of us, they made sure they were there to welcome us back.

Man made tunnel close to the South rim, simply called “First tunnel.”

The night ended with a splendid dinner with everyone in the group except Mike, our guide who had to leave for Flagstaff.

The Grand Canyon was truly grand—vast, majestic, ancient, sacred, and divine! Perhaps that is why an explorer in the 1800s gave so many of its peaks names such as Brahma, Vishnu, Zoroaster, and Buddha, along with several names from Greek and Egyptian mythology.

Exhilaration I have felt waking up in the wilderness is difficult to put into words. It is that special. I have felt it in a number of places I have been to: a mountain hut on the Tour du Mont Blanc in the Alps, Namche Bazaar in the Himalayas, and a cabin on Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park, to name a few.

The dorms at Phantom Ranch are single-gender: men in one dorm with five bunk beds and women in the other building. I shared the dorm with ten other guys of different ages. It was dark and cold. I shared a bunk bed with a young man on the upper bunk. He snored loudly. Another bunk bed was only four feet away, and the person on the lower bunk also snored. They snored in a symphony the whole night.

I forgot to take the earplugs out of my bag. Now it was too late to fish them out of my stuffed backpack. My headlamp had fallen under the bed, and I could not retrieve it without disturbing others. So I had to find the bathroom in the dark. While coming back to bed, I had to make sure I didn’t sit on someone’s lap or bang my head on the bed. The next night, I made sure I had my headlamp around my neck and my earplugs handy.

The canteen had a window on one side where hot coffee was kept early in the morning. I wondered how much effort went into getting all the supplies there and providing hikers with these creature comforts.

I thought it was a day of relaxation and rest. Our guide had a different idea. Mike made sure we kept moving to prepare for the next day’s hike. So we covered ten thousand steps before 11 a.m. by hiking a smaller mountain overlooking Phantom Ranch and into the Narrows on the North Kaibab Trail, which ends at the North Rim. The Narrows were almost identical to what we saw in Zion National Park.

Narrows reminded me of Zion

Mike prepared a simple but nutritious lunch at noon. After that, everyone was on their own until 5 p.m. for dinner. So Usha and I walked to the Colorado River and dipped our feet in the 50-degree water!

Dinner was served exactly at 5 p.m. There was another seating at 6:30. The same vegetarian chili for us. We met some interesting hikers, some in their 70s, still backpacking! There was only one server, and she simply brought the food to the table while the guests passed it around. She also shared some trivia. Five million tourists visit the Grand Canyon every year. One percent make it to Phantom Ranch. She told us we could mail postcards from the ranch, which would be carried by mules to the rim. We mailed cards to our children, friends, and one to ourselves!

At night, we attended a presentation by a researcher for National Geographic. He was hiking through an area of the canyon that only 25 other hikers had explored so far. It is a very inaccessible area. He had to hack through bushes to advance and follow animal tracks! His work was scheduled to appear in September 2016. His focus was on water among other things.

South rim in the distance-10 miles away and 4800 ft up in the sky - on foot

The night was clear, cold, and silent. All the other hikers, Usha and I, and our guide sat on park benches and gazed at the stars. We soaked in the moonlight, had light conversation, and bonded.

Look how far we have come—

It was a cold and clear morning. I could not believe that just the night before it had been snowing, cold, and windy. We were dressed in multiple layers. The first two miles were covered with fresh snow, and it was slippery. Mule traffic had created deep holes on the trail. That slowed us down even further.

Mike told us to appreciate the views, but to make sure we stopped to take everything in. The combination of snow, deep holes on the trail, and slippery conditions was a recipe for falls or sprains. It was risky not to keep our eyes focused on our feet all the time. Hiking poles certainly gave us support. Occasional brave souls were without them.

Halfway through

Mike, our guide, made sure we ate an energy bar or some other snack every one to one and a half miles of hiking, and he encouraged us to sip water even if we did not feel thirsty.

I carried three liters of water and plenty of snacks. The visitor center scale showed that my backpack weighed 17.5 pounds. Carrying so much water was especially important during the hotter season. There is no water source on the South Kaibab Trail. There is no shade, and the descents are steeper compared to the Bright Angel Trail. Bright Angel also has seasonal water availability and some shade, though it is at least two miles longer.

Mike carried 65 pounds on his back. Halfway down the hike, he prepared sandwiches. He was also a great source of information. Every year, the canyon claims a few lives. Some people fall from the heights, but that is not the major cause of fatalities. Hikers get into trouble because of medical conditions and dehydration. However, he cautioned us, “Don’t chase your hat if it flies off in the wind.”

The Park Service has named the base rock “Vishnu Rock” because it is so old. “Kaibab” means “upside-down mountain,” so appropriate!

In a short time, we were perspiring and needed to take off our outer layers. The valley is 10 to 15 degrees warmer. The farther we descended, the fewer layers we needed.

There were several switchbacks that seemed endless and were hard on the knees. The river looked close, but the descent and switchbacks went on and on. Phantom Ranch is 7.5 to 8 miles from the rim (depending on which source you use), and we averaged about one mile an hour.

Banks of Colorado river after un-ending switch backs

We crossed the Black Bridge, built in 1928, over the Colorado River to get to Phantom Ranch. Mules use the same bridge. We walked through the campground to reach the ranch.

“Black “ bridge crossing over the river

A shower and a little relaxation helped us recover, and dinner helped even more. We had vegetarian chili, and it was delicious! Phantom Ranch is located near Bright Angel Creek, and they serve family-style meals in their canteen. It is unbelievable that a hot meal is available in such wilderness. All the supplies are brought in by mule trains.

Colorado: up-close

We drove from Phoenix to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon the day before our hike. It had rained in Phoenix. We chased clouds and rain all the way up to Flagstaff. The sun played hide-and-seek a few times behind the clouds. Rain turned into sleet as we gained altitude. Sleet then turned into snow as we approached Flagstaff, which sits at an elevation of 7,000 ft. The temperature plummeted to 25 Fahrenheit and the snow continued for the next 70 miles, all the way to Grand Canyon Village. Salt trucks were out in full force. As we gained altitude, a mild headache started—a touch of altitude sickness—which later subsided without any intervention.

The snow had just stopped when we reached the South Rim. The valley was covered with clouds, and it was blistering cold. Some visitors, including a few children, were still walking along the rim in the snow, bundled up.

That afternoon, we had an orientation meeting with our guide. Michael, at 41, had already done several hikes this year. He seemed very professional and knowledgeable. He provided us with company backpacks that had generous shoulder padding. He also gave us crampons in case we encountered slippery or icy surfaces. We were expected to carry three liters of water and a few snacks. Michael’s spiel was a little anxiety-provoking, yet encouraging at the same time. The descent to Phantom Ranch was very close to a vertical mile : 5000 ft. Descents are steep and knee-jarring. We knew it would be a strenuous undertaking and definitely a cause for our anxiety.

There were two other couples from California who would be our co-hikers for the next three days. They were friends, in their fifties, looked physically fit, and seemed friendly.

The next morning, we were supposed to have an early start. It would be a very cold morning, but no new snow was in the forecast.

Canyon shades at different times:

Hiking the Grand Canyon was one of our first major hikes in 2015. We had been thinking about it for a while. However, procrastination and doubts about our ability to complete the hike successfully had prevailed. Reading about the hike and following online discussions boosted our confidence considerably. Early on, we realized that any hike—especially a challenging one—must first be conquered in the mind before the boots are on!

I plan to write about that adventure in the coming days.

We are glad that the weather cooperated for the most part, and the walk was enjoyable.

We had a full day to explore Bath.

Walked the streets of Bath

Oldest house next to the hotel is also a restaurant

Abbey is more than 1000 years old and has been witness to Empires, Kings and wars.

The beautiful Abbey has services every day. We took a guided tower tour. The bell weighs 1.7 tonnes. Tower tour involves climbing 212 steps and can be cloustrobhobic.

Famous Roman Baths built around hot springs more tha 2000 years ago!

Hot water gushing from the bowels of the Earth.

Jane Austen center

We visited the Jane Austen Centre. She lived in Bath for five years. As a woman, she could not publish her books under her own name. Her first four books were printed anonymously. After her death at the age of 41, her influential brother helped publish her books under her name. Jane did not get to see her name in print.

Note : We are looking forward to walking the Camino de Santiago for the second time this coming September. This time, we will do the Portuguese Way. I plan to write about it.

Elevation gain : 850 ft

Descent : 1410 ft

The hotel in Bath was right next to one of the main attractions, Bath Abbey. The Roman Baths were adjacent to the Abbey. There are many remnants of Roman history, besides Roman buildings and architecture, throughout the city.

Breakfast time and place happened to be very central to the whole walking experience. This is where the day’s first coffee met the craving mind. A substantial breakfast was a very important meal of the day. We never ate a full lunch while on the trail. We could have found a pub a couple of times when we passed through villages and hamlets. But we relied mostly on the snacks we carried. Stopping for lunch could have cost us more time, and there was a concern about losing momentum.

We met other walkers in the dining area during breakfast. As we were settling in for breakfast on our last day of walking, a family of four from Nebraska walked in. They had finished their walk the day before and were ending their adventure today.

Our ride back to Cold Ashton was at nine in the morning. We were supposed to go back to Cold Ashton and walk back to Bath. There was a forecast for significant rain, and we had already walked enough, so we were inclined to walk only half the distance, roughly about 5 miles, on our last day. The family from Nebraska helped us figure out where to get out of the car and how to connect to the Bath-bound Cotswold trail.

Rain began as we waited for the taxi at the designated pickup spot. We donned our raincoats and put rain covers over our backpacks. The rain intensified as the taxi made its way through the city. I instructed the driver to drop us at a halfway point between Bath and Cold Ashton. The taxi stopped as the rain was really coming down hard. We had the rain pants, but not on us. We had the gaiters, but they were in the backpacks. As the driver watched us, we stepped out of the car, pulled the backpacks onto our shoulders, and fastened the straps. We struggled to put the gaiters on as the rain beat against our backs. It looks so easy while watching the commercials, as gaiters go on the shoes in a few seconds! That did not happen. By the time the gaiters were fitted, our shoes were completely soaked. My raincoat hood had slipped off my head, and water had run down my back. My hat was completely drenched. After several minutes, and one wrong turn, we found the Cotswold Trail going toward Bath

Waterlogged shoes are a perfect recipe for blisters. All these days and several miles of walking, neither of us had any. On the last day, Usha developed one. It was not a big deal, though. After reaching the hotel, I covered it with a large dressing specially made for blister care

Bath city : View from the trail

Close but not close enough!

After some time, the rain lost its punishing punch and turned into a light rain, and eventually it stopped altogether. That gave me an opportunity to dig into my backpack and pull out a dry hat.

We got stung many times when we walked through thick bushes. The sting didn't last too long, but it was pretty distinct. I didn't pay much attention, as we were more focused on the walk. My concern was about poison ivy, and the plant certainly did not look like it. Later, my good friend, who had lived in the United Kingdom, pointed out that the plant indeed was "stinging nettle." This plant is found throughout the United Kingdom, and it's supposed to have nutritional and health benefits.

After completing the day’s walk, we were happy to go back to the hotel, shower, and change into dry clothes. I cleaned and washed already wet shoes. I cleaned the poles and retired them for this journey.

We treated ourselves to spicy and salty snacks at an Indian restaurant. On the way back, we stopped to touch the “Cotswold Way” marker in front of the Abbey and completed our “Cotswold Way Walk” symbolically.

Symbolic completion of “Cotswold Way Walk.”

Marker in front of Bath Abbey

Afterword to follow——

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Ascent: 610 ft

Descent : 330 ft

Last night, I had a long discussion with Guy, who is the owner of the Sodbury House Hotel. His recommendation was to bypass Cold Ashton, take a bus to Bath at 9 o’clock in the morning, and spend more time in Bath rather than walking to Cold Ashton and basically going through the same scenery for the most part. In theory, it made sense. Bath is a very popular tourist destination to visit. Later, I told Usha what he had suggested, and we both agreed that we had traveled to the UK specifically to walk the Cotswold Way, and not completing it would have felt like abandoning our earlier mission. Besides, we had an additional day in Bath specifically to visit the important sites there.

After a hearty breakfast, we made sure to take pictures of Guy and Chris along with their property and then made our way to the trailhead.

There wasn’t much elevation gain or loss like on previous days. However, there were still 10 miles ahead of us. We walked peacefully through meadows, wheat fields, and beautiful woodlands.

Feeding time

Village of Tormarton

St.Mary Magdalene church in Tormarton

Plenty of wheat

Distances and elevations between two locations did not seem accurate : the actual distance was always longer and the elevation higher. Other walkers felt the same. The last push to Cold Ashton was very steep, and Usha was falling behind. We had long days back to back, and it was taking its toll. The wind was picking up. Rain seemed likely. Cold Ashton is perched on top of a hill, and blowing wind is common there.

Cold Ashton has limited accommodation, and our adventure company could not secure our stay there. Instead, they had arranged a car pickup at 5 p.m. to take us to Bath for the night and bring us back to Cold Ashton the next morning to finish our last day’s walk.

We reached the Parish Hall in Cold Ashton, our pickup location, at 3 p.m. as the cold wind picked up and a drizzle started. The taxi service wanted the tour company to call them to change to an earlier pickup time. When I called the tour company's office, I did not get a favorable response as there was not much time left to make changes. Walking in the rain and the wind is one thing and just sitting for couple of hours is all together different. We and especially Usha was tired and it made sense to get a taxi on our own and find a comfort inside the four walls of a hoteL

Ah! One more day of walking!

Distance : 15.3 miles [24.62 KM]

Ascend : 1330 ft

Descend : 1345 ft

It was going to be a long day ahead of us, and fortunately the breakfast was served at 7 in the morning by a attendant who appeared sleepy.

Temperature was cool, in the mid-fifties, and it was overcast. As we got out of town, we were greeted by a clear stream of water and the shade of thick green foliage. The first major, heart-pounding elevation came right after that. The long trail passed through prairies, hills, farmlands and pretty villages.

Residents took great pride in maintaining beautiful gardens and preserving their heritage. Some examples do not need explanations:

Haven, was it a warning or real pride? I wondered!

Now someone’s home

We passed through small villages. The front yards of the houses were gardens with a variety of plants and lots of flowers. The yards were manicured and, at the same time, had a natural and fresh look.

Frustrated soul

To be honest, we had to walk on it a lot!

What struck me was that on these trails there were no benches to sit on. Perhaps the purpose was to maintain the natural beauty. During our entire walk of 15.3 miles, we did not sit anywhere or take off our backpacks. I had a can of strawberry yogurt in my backpack. We stood in the smack middle of the trail, opened the can, added a small amount of electrolyte liquid, and consumed it without using a spoon or our fingers!

The trail ended near the old church, and we sat there in the yard overlooking the town of Sodbury. There was a deep feeling in the heart. Was it a sense of accomplishment or just a relief that the day’s walk was over? Relief for sure.

Chris welcomed us to the Sodbury House Hotel. She gave us a tour and offered a few options for dinner on our own: there was a pub a five-minute walk away, another eating place a 10-minute walk away, or an Uber ride to a Thai restaurant and another restaurant. She seemed to be leaning toward the pub, and considering the shorter distance and the rain forecast, the pub won the contest.

Our bags were already in the room. A long hot shower and stretching out on the bed was heavenly!

As we approached the pub, a drizzle had started. We ran into Karen and Joan, who were coming out of the pub. They were staying in a nearby hotel. We would have loved to catch up with them, but the rain interrupted our conversation.

Meditation

Elevation : 2100 ft

Descent : 1609 ft

Today was supposed to be shorter day on the trail. So Ray had convinced us to have breakfast not earlier than 8 in the morning. That certainly made sense as we had moderately exhausting day before. Naomi and Ray had spread several breakfast options: yoghurt, cereals, fruits, nuts, cheeses, butter, tea and coffee. Additionally, there was a gluten free bread for me. He brought two poached eggs with toasts to complete the breakfast.

Naomi and Ray bid us farewell. They received us in their home and did great job as hosts.

Wonderful hosts

We had met two sisters-in-law, Joan and Karen, before in Stonehouse and on the trail when they had passed us. This morning, they invited us to share a table with them during breakfast. This was their first-ever multi-day walking trek. Besides Joan developing a blister, they were doing well. Their respective husbands either did not want to walk or had no time because of their busy businesses. We got along so well.

In order to get back on the trail, we were supposed to climb down to the center of town and ascend from there. Ray described a connector route that bypassed the need to go downtown. We were okay with shortening the walk. We needed to conserve energy for the next day’s long walk. Karen and Joan were already on board with this.

There was an immediate left turn at the end of the parking lot of the B&B, which led us onto a steep trail. We needed to stop several times to catch our breath, but the sisters-in-law stuck with us until we reached the official Cotswold trail sign near the golf course. We ran into them a few times again at different places, and every time it was like meeting long-lost friends!

Our compassionate trail friends

Even though it was a shorter walk, there were steep ascents and descents. I am in the habit of developing black-and-blue toes and eventually losing toenails from hitting my toes against the front of my shoes. I tried to walk sideways and on imaginary switchbacks, going from one side of the trail to the other as I descended. When I got tired of doing that, I walked backwards, making sure no one else was on that section of the trail. Soon, I realized that it was somewhat risky on a steep incline. I weighed the risk of falling backwards against having a black toe and opted for the second option.

We came across a monument in honor of William Tyndale. He was born in 1490 in Gloucestershire and graduated with a BA degree from Oxford University in 1512. For a period of time, he lived in Sodbury. He translated the New Testament into English. However, he was later arrested on charges of heresy and executed on October 6, 1536. He was chained to a stake and burned. His work became the foundation for subsequent English translations of the Bible.

Monument inaugurated in November 1866

The monument had more than 100 steps, mostly covered with twigs and leaves brought by birds. The steps were very narrow, and there was nothing to hold onto. There was a description of him at the bottom. I climbed the stairs in a somber mood. His good work did not go unpunished.

The Swan Hotel was kind enough to check us in early. It seemed to be run by a family. We were amused when an 8-year-old girl checked us in! She came with us carrying the keys and wanted to help with the bags. I appreciated her spirit and innocence! I told her I did not need help with the luggage, but asked if she would please guide us to our room, which happened to be on the third floor.

Later, when we were trying to relax, there was a knock on the door. An adult apologized and told us that we had been assigned the wrong room and would be moved to another one. Luckily, no one showed up to make the change.

We watched the young girl working under supervision at dinnertime—escorting guests to their tables, bringing menus, and serving water. It would not be allowed in the U.S., but I thought, what a wonderful way to bond with the family and understand the value of work at the same time.

Cinema next to Swan hotel.

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Elevation gain : 2100 ft

Elevation loss : 2215 ft

Breakfast area wasn’t opened until 8 in the morning and it took some time to serve it. As a result we had a late start. Sun was up over the canopy of the trees when we hit the trail. There was a long walk along the canal with stagnant water and then by the side of road. Initially it was cool but soon we were feeling the heat. We had at least ten miles in front of us and we walked steadily, pace broken with the approaching gates.

Birds chirped but hardly ever we spotted them. Occasionally we saw gentle stream of clear water and occasionally we herd the water gurgling through the thick bushes. No gushing streams or waterfalls.

We passed through farms full of sheep and sometimes cattle. One time, few cows were standing next to the trail and one of them standing in the middle, constantly stared at us as we approached. Perhaps just a curious animal. We got off the trail, made a wide half circle to pass, as we watched each other intently

Warning

Just curious?

There were supposed to be small wild animals such as foxes, rabbits and deer. We saw one deer through the hotel window. At one time two rabbits jumped onto the trail in front of us from the right side, ran in front of us and disappeared in the woods. There were no bears to startle us as we turned the corner on the trail, no mountain lions chased us and there were no reptiles to rattle us. Even the foxes did not cross our path.

5000 years old burial site on the way

Cotswold has a rich history of woolen trade. Stanley Mill, which was in this area had once employed hundreds of people.

It really got very hot when one mile was left before arriving at Dursley town. As we were standing in the sun and wondering about the hill to cross, a group of school girls on a day trip emerged from our left side, lead by young group leader or perhaps a teacher. They had come form Dursley. Usha preferred not to climb another hill that day. We had already walked ten miles and climbed 2100 feet.

Hill which did not get climbed

Young lady was kind enough to give us directions to the alternate route. It would have kept the distance to Dursley the same, without having to climb the hill. It had a mixed blessing : as soon as we left our path, navigation stopped and we had to depend on the directions we received and some instincts. Eventually we connected to the main trail on the other side of the hill and reached the Dursley down town. Still the walking was not over yet : we had to find our bed and breakfast place. We stood on the hot concrete which threw back heat at us with full force and it became difficult to focus on the google map. So we entered the nearest restaurant, ordered fish and chips, emptied a pack of electrolytes in a glass of water and gulped it down. Once settled, Usha figured out the directions.

We stayed in the house of Naomi and Ray for the night. Ray invited us in and pulled the drawer out from underneath the staircase, for our shoes to keep. That happened at most places. Shoes and poles could be dirty, especially if it had rained and shoes had to be removed upon entering the facility.

Ray gave us a mini tour of his property, explained how to lock and unlock the doors and handed over the key as he made small talk and told us jokes. One of the room was designated for physiotherapy. Naomi, lady of the house, being a physical therapist offered that modality and massages to soar and tired walkers. Ray also asked about choice of breakfast for next morning. Both, husband and wife, recommended their favorite restaurant, ‘India zones’ for the dinner. They dined there frequently. We followed their recommendation and enjoyed food and the attention at, ‘India Zones’

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Ascend : 836 ft

Discent : 1165 ft

Breakfast was served by an older individual who appeared to have lost signifiant height over the years. She was pleasant, courteous and took great efforts to fulfill our breakfast needs.

Docile sheep

When we stepped out, the climate was cool and cloudy, similar to the previous morning. It did not take much time to get out of the town and start walking through private property. Every time we passed from one to the other property, we had to pass through the gates. Those gates had variety of different locks which we had to figure out how to open. Gates kept the live stock inside and we were expected to close the gates behind us. Some times there were no gates but a barrier which had to be climbed over to get to the other side

Happy to pass through the gate

One of the many barriers

Sometimes trail passed behind the house or in between the two houses

Part of someone’s backyard

Trail was lined by the tall trees and thick bushes, the color of which was eye pleasing deep green. After four miles of walking, trail brought us to a parking lot. We noted a small parked truck and a tall banner fluttered in the wind advertising coffee! That was an unexpected bonus! There were a couple of families having a picnic. Usha and I took of the backpacks and I headed to get the coffee. There was another person, perhaps a day walker waiting for the coffee. He and the attendant were having deep conversation as the coffee was brewing. No one seemed to be in hurry. As I was paying for our drinks, I asked attendant if there was any restroom around. He looked at me as if the question did not register. Then slowly he raised his index finger to his chin and suggested in a soft voice that I may have to find a bush.

Rejuvenated, we opened the gate on the other side of the parking lot and stepped on the trail for another six-seven miles of walking.

It was sunny and getting hotter when we reached the town called Stonehouse. But it was not until we walked for another 1.5 miles that we saw our nice looking hotel for the night : Stonehouse court hotel.

Stonehouse Court Hotel

The hotel had witnessed a lot of history. It used to be a “manor house” and through here the surrounding estates were controlled. The tenancy had exchanged hands several times and land rights were granted by the kings, based on the loyalty to the royals. Hotel was beautiful from inside and exterior. As it was mandatory to maintain it’s old plan and charm, there were no elevators. We had to haul our luggage down the stairs, drag through the long corridors and then haul up the three floors, only to carry it back to the front desk next morning.

We had decided to have dinner in the hotel’s cafeteria. By now we knew there were at least five other groups or individuals walking the Cotswold way. Only two, including us were present during the dinner time, rest probably explored local cuisine in the town. That was a smart idea.

Views through the wide windows of our room was soothing. The night was cloudless and full moon rose above the hills blanketing the manicured lawn, trees, bushes and surrounding hills, with the soft light.

Under the blanket of soft moon light

Distance : 8.3 miles

Elevation gain: 777.4 ft.

Elevation loss: 1144 ft.

“Cotswold Way” is a 164 KM [102 miles] trail in southwest region of the England. It stretches between Chipping Campden to the north and the beautiful city of Bath to the south. Usha and I walked 107 KM [66 M]in seven days: from Birdlip to Bath.

Today was our first day of walking and we were the first guests to show up for breakfast at seven in the morning at Royal George hotel.

During the previous night in Birdlip, we were woken up by thunderstorms and frequent lightning which lasted almost for 2 hours. Fortunately, the rain had stopped in the morning.

View from the trail

Temperature was in mid 50s and it was mostly cloudy. Perfect for a long walk. The trail meandered through bright dark green woodland. It went over the hills with a few steep elevations. Midway on the hill, dark clouds gathered, wind blew intensely and rain appeared to be imminent. We brought out our raincoats in a hurry. But after few light showers, clouds quickly dispersed and rain fizzled out.

Local community uses these trails to walk their dogs. Interestingly, most dogs were not on leads. [they do not use word ‘leash’ in England]. Dogs appeared to be well behaved: they did not bark or jump at us. Off course, what dog does not like a belly rub! The only dogs that barked were behind the fence and powerless.

Farmers wanted dogs to be on leads. Apparently, dogs ran through the field and chased the live stock. We saw couple of stern warnings to the dog owners that their dogs were not safe without the leads.

Well marked trail

Cotswold way is well marked with signs, in the middle of which there is an acorn sign. There are other signs which may look similar from a distance. At one time we took a wrong turn and our hiking app alerted us within a few feet. As we were trying to figure out the way, a dog without the lead, followed by a walker, appeared from the opposite direction. He pointed towards the correct direction and walked with us for a mile. His funny dog carried a log almost same weight as his as he walked in front of us.

Entertaining companion

Britisher was a talker and there were two pairs of ears listening about taxes, increased cost of living and delayed retirement age of 67 years : universal issues.

We passed over the Cooper’s hill, famous for the annual “cheese rolling festival in May”.

Usha at work

Trail passed through Painswick golf course. As we approached, golfers stopped hitting the ball and signaled us to pass. We reached Painswick by 1 in the afternoon. As the check-in time in the bed and breakfast was not until 3, we strolled through the town and found a road side, ‘Micheal’s’ restaurant run by energetic Rumanian couple. We ordered snacks and watched a few cars rolling by and few walkers trickling in. When we got tired of sitting, we walked through the near by cemetery, sat on the bench for few minutes along with some other people and then entered the old church. It was getting warmer outside and some other people also made their way inside the cool church.

Watching the world go by:

Bed and breakfast opened it’s doors exactly at 3 in the afternoon and we were the first to get in. We were welcomed by a pleasant and talkative, middle edged woman, who sounded like she had chronic bronchitis. She showed the place very enthusiastically, took us to our room in the adjacent building and made sure we had everything we needed.

We returned back to Micheal’s restaurant for dinner and called it an early day.