The flight attendant yells out over the speaker as she frantically runs up and down the aisles. Passengers are calling their loved ones and saying their goodbyes. The cloud coverage is so thick outside I can’t tell if we’re landing in water or on land.

We were making an emergency landing and it was time to brace for impact.

Four consecutive chimes ring out over the speakers, sparking my initial worry. Actually, I was already worried when the flight kept getting delayed due to weather, but this happens often, especially when flying to and from Nantucket. For a little island only 30 miles out, I’ve never had more trouble getting there.

It was just moments after takeoff, and this same chime had rung out a few times. I did a quick Google search and learned I was hearing a priority flight deck call: the pilots needed to speak with the lead flight attendant immediately regarding a non-normal situation or an urgent operational update.

The flight attendant pulls a row out behind me, stating that she needs to check something out the window. She looks at the wing of the plane, shrugs, and says to herself that it looks fine. What on earth are we looking at, and why is it dependent on the flight attendant looking out the window? I am now feeling the need to take on the job of keeping the plane safe by staring out the window for any unusual activity and willing the wing to stay intact. Every bump has me on edge. My sister is asleep next to me, and I figure there’s no need to wake her until I know what’s going on.

As we start to descend, things take a turn. All of a sudden, as we’re getting ready to land and putting our chairs upright again, the pilot notifies us that we will actually be rerouting to Boston.

The attendants get on the speaker and start warning us that we need to review the emergency protocol right away, get into position, and stay there until the pilot tells us it’s safe.

This is about the time my sister wakes up and asks me what’s going on. Tears are streaming down my face when the speakers announce again,

“This is an emergency. We are making an emergency landing, and you need to brace for impact. Review the instructions in the seat-back pocket.”

It’s almost comical now, thinking back on this. Almost. No one could even find the page with the instructions on it, and Caitlin and I were sitting in seats with particularly large amounts of legroom, so we couldn’t even reach the manual.

The position we were supposed to take was to bend over, hug our knees, and put our heads down. But everyone was almost paralyzed sitting upright.

“Brace! Brace! Brace!”

My heartbeat was deafening. I’ve never had fear take over my entire body quite like this did. There was nothing I could do. I tightened my seatbelt and grabbed my sister’s hand, squeezing it twice (a way we communicated when we were little kids to say, “I love you”). I was terrified and couldn’t stop shaking. My sister just repeated that we were okay with a smile glued to her face. I took out my phone to text my fiancé ‘I love you,’ and went back to my post of window watch.

A man in front of us woke up as the flight attendant screeched again over the speakers. This time, she was telling us to find the emergency exit, leave our belongings behind, and jump off the slide. He looks back at my sister and me and mouths, “What the fuck?” Then he opens a can of Zyns and pops them into his mouth.

The cloud coverage was thick, and it was disorienting. Were we over land or water? Were we about to crash into the ocean or glide towards a runway?

We soon learn there’s a problem with the engine. No information is given easily but it’s hinted that there’s a fuel leak perhaps. The plane was silent. You could see people either taking out books and reading or they were calling their loved ones and saying goodbye. One passenger referenced the movie Top Gun to the flight attendant assuring her we could land with one engine.

Then all of the sudden the plane just lands.

No bumps. No screeching halt. Just a normal landing?

No one clapped.

We would later learn the engine was on fire and we were flying with just one working. Although (as mentioned in Top Gun) we could have landed, they rerouted us to Boston because it was cheaper for the airline.

We got off the plane after the anticlimactic landing and almost in unison, everyone was pulled towards the bar for a drink. Nothing brings people together quite like a shared trauma. Strangers embraced in tearful hugs and everyone shared what they thought were their last moments.

Some lessons I learned when I thought we were going down:

- Tell people you love them whenever you get the chance.

- Don’t take work to vacation. I hate to admit when I thought the plane was going down and we were told to leave our belongings, I was freaking out about needing to get work sent off and how would I explain why I lost all the images due. (I’m a photographer and need to stop traveling with the only copies that exist of my photo shoots).

- Lift weights. If I did in-fact survive and then figure out a way to take my computer, I would need to swim with it overhead which would require some arm strength.

- Have a positive attitude. It literally changes your life. I think if we were about to die, I would have rather been laughing with my sister, or reading a book or something… rather than balling crying and freaking out, and sending out final words that would fall on deaf ears. It did nothing to worry and if we were going down there was nothing I could do about it. I instead should spend that time having a final good conversation or one more laugh with my best friend.

I’m sure more lessons will come to me later but these are my initial thoughts.

We quickly decided that traveling by boat would be the safer option. We boarded the Grey Lady ferry and shared canned wine with fellow survivors. We spent the journey to the island retelling our own version of what had just happened to us, refusing to let fear make us turn around and go home. So help me God, we were going to make our dinner reservation.

The next few days on Nantucket were magical. We had a newfound appreciation for life. We were more patient. Long waits for dinner didn’t matter. We splurged on more expensive wine. We smiled at everyone. We found peace in rainy days. We didn’t sweat the small stuff. We took long, beautiful bike rides. We walked everywhere. We stared at the ocean for hours. We ordered the second bottle. We stayed out late and woke up early. We had the mudslides at Gazebo. We ordered lobster rolls, one hot and one cold.

Over the weekend, we would run into fellow passengers. We would instantly combine tables, share stories, and share wine. Strangers became friends, and although I hope to never be in that situation again for as long as I live, I have to credit the SOS flight with helping us make the very most of our vacation.

Handmade in Italy, these Florentine gold leaf mirrors turn an everyday object into something worth admiring. Made and collected for walls that deserve a little history. These mirrors are timeless works of art, made to be admired for generations. When I collected these, I felt as though I was bringing the golden Tuscan sunsets home with me, their warm glow now living on my walls. Adorning your home with these pieces brings a little Italian elegance wherever you are.

Most of the mirrors in this collection were crafted in a charming shop near Chiesa di San Jacopo in Campo Corbolini. Each is hand-stamped with gold leaf, made with precision, patience, and care.

Some things are meant to be looked at, others are meant to be lived with. These Florentine mirrors are both.

Shop here.

Mirror - Specchio

Gold - Oro

Reflection - Riflessione

For walls that deserve a little history. Shop our collection of mirrors here.

*Please Note: Our vintage treasures have lived a life before finding their way to you. Each piece carries its own unique story, with signs of age and character that add to its charm. While we carefully curate our collection, natural imperfections are to be expected and embraced. We believe these details make each item truly one of a kind.

Introducing the Wine Journal / Libro dei Vini

Designed for wine lovers, this wine journal is a place to save all bottles worth remembering. Each one is handmade in Florence, Italy, and meant to be used whenever for open a bottle. Use this book to document tasting notes, vintages, and favorite vino labels, one bottle at a time. Bring with you to every dinner party, vineyard visit, aperitivo, celebration, and more.

Handmade in Florence.

Colors: Merlot, Rosso, Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and Sangiovese

Dimensions: 9.75” (L) × 7” (W) × 0.75” (D)

Shop Wine Journals

From Belle Époque cafés to modern cocktail bars, absinthe remains one of France’s most iconic and misunderstood spirits. Equal parts history, ritual, and myth, its story is as captivating as the drink itself.

This highly alcoholic, anise-flavored spirit is traditionally made from grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), green anise, sweet fennel, and a blend of other herbs. French absinthe traces its legacy to the cafés and artists of 19th-century France. But how did it all begin?

Absinthe was first developed in Switzerland in 1792 by French physician Pierre Ordinaire. Although its origins were Swiss, the spirit became closely associated with France and gained widespread popularity after Henri-Louis Pernod established the first commercial absinthe distillery in Pontarlier in 1805.

Absinthe became immensely popular throughout Europe before being banned in the United States in 1912 and in several European countries due to concerns about its alleged dangerous and hallucinogenic effects.

Absinthe was legalized again in the United States in 2007, provided it met strict regulations regarding thujone levels. Thujone being a naturally occurring compound found in wormwood that was long believed to cause hallucinations and other mind-altering effects.

In reality, much of absinthe’s notorious reputation was likely exaggerated. The amount of thujone required to produce significant psychoactive effects is far greater than what is present in legally produced absinthe. In other words, a person would likely become intoxicated from the alcohol long before experiencing any noticeable effects from the wormwood itself.

Most popular French Absinthe brands today:

Jade Liqueurs

Pernod Absinthe

Vieux Pontarlier

Lucid Absinthe Supérieure

François Guy

Grande Absente

Stories of “absinthe madness” and “absinthe rage” became widespread during the spirit’s heyday, but modern research suggests these reports were more likely linked to excessive alcohol consumption than to the wormwood. However, it wasn’t really the fact of the wormwood causing mind altering delusion, it was people were getting way too drunk.

And you know, some people are bad drinkers.

*All photos taken at the home of Paul Maitland-Day

“100 km from noise, five minutes from the centre.”

We’ve finally landed in Marseille, France. It’s a little after 7 p.m., and the sun won’t set for at least another two hours.

Our hotel is close by, only about 20 minutes away, and it’s definitely apéro time. As we come into view: Le Petit Nice.

Hidden by the sea and located right on the water, this 5-star hotel has been a sight for sore eyes since 1917. Le Petit Nice is in the 7th arrondissement (one of Marseille’s 16 arrondissements) and faces the Mediterranean. Nearby, the Frioul Islands, Château d’If, and Degaby Island (Île Degaby) stretch out ahead of us.

We’re situated on top of what I think would be a fabulous date spot: Plage du Petit Nice. This beach in Marseille is a classic local hangout without sand. Instead, people gather and climb on the white rocks, spending the day sunbathing and swimming.

The hotel features 16 contemporary rooms and two villas, some with private terraces offering panoramic views of the sea. Amenities include an acclaimed fine dining restaurant, a modern bar, a terrace overlooking the Planier Lighthouse, a heated seawater pool, a spa, and access to Petit Nice Beach.

After a long journey here we get to fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing. A wonderful first stay to kick off our time in the south of France!

*Don’t miss the happy tortoise that roams the property. Check-in tells us he’s the boss and will show up at the kitchen every day at 11 like clockwork.

*Breakfast available for purchase.

Le Petit Nice – Passedat
Anse de Maldormé
Corniche JF Kennedy
17 rue des Braves
13007 Marseille

Tel : +33 (0)4 91 592 592
Fax : +33 (0)4 91 592 808

E-mail : contact@passedat.fr

One especially hot afternoon, we met up with friends at the beach while home for the weekend. We spent the entire day in the sun, and as we packed up to head back to the car, I realized I’d gotten a parking ticket. The feeling of dread washed over me. What could have been an $8 meter had turned into an $80 beach day simply because I hadn’t read the signs carefully enough.

My friend Dakota shrugged and said,

“You have to realize… sometimes a day at the beach costs $80.”

Travel is romantic. The journey, sometimes, is not. I’ve learned never to make too many plans on day one because, more often than not, something happens … Flights get delayed, connections are missed, theres traffic and roads closures.

I used to be the type of traveler who didn’t care how I got there. I’d buy the cheapest ticket, five connections, overnight layovers, the worst seat on the plane, it didn’t matter to me. Now, I spend a little more, and I value my time a little more too. I’ve decided it’s better to get there with as few stops as possible and, within reason, in the most comfortable way possible. I’m not trying to spend all my vacation money on first-class flights, but I also think it’s important to make the travel day easy on yourself. There will always be inconveniences outside your control. The trick is minimizing the ones that aren’t.

Our trip to France was no exception. It didn’t matter how early we were or how carefully we planned our layovers. One 30-minute delay on the tarmac and an impossibly slow security line caused us to miss our final connection from Paris to Marseille. Suddenly, we were stranded in the airport, scrambling to figure out what to do next. With every refresh of our browsers, the price of this one-hour flight climbed.  Trains were selling out faster than I could make a decision, and we were left with two options: a nearly five-hour combination of trains that would get us to our hotel by midnight, or $4,000 plane tickets that would get us there in time dinner.

Dinner was fabulous.

The evening stretched long into the night.  The mixture of Negronis and espresso had us laughing deliriously. We enjoyed delicious pastas, prosciutto and melon, cold rosé, and homemade limoncello. We made new friends and promised to return. I’ve never once regretted the decision.

Sometimes you spend the extra money and enjoy the first night of your trip.

Sometimes a day at the beach costs $80.

Dinner: Ciccino in Marseille

I’ve had plenty of trips where I packed for every possible occasion - bags bursting at the seams, pockets stuffed like makeshift third and fourth carry-ons. But honestly, it’s so much more relaxing to travel with bags that zip closed. Bags as airy as a croissant, fitting easily under your seat.

Before you finish packing up your bag, don’t forget to add the items below from my Jet Lag List - my foolproof ways to make long hours on an airplane as wonderful as the vacation you are heading to.

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1. Beis Carry On Roller - No checking luggage here! This is favorite suitcase and carry-on combo. It seriously makes running to your gate or weaving through a busy crowd a breeze. The trolley sleeve on the bag fits snugly over your luggage handle so it never topples over. Total game changer. The compartment below has also fit a week’s worth of shoes with room to spare!

2. Neck Pillow - This is a need-to-have on long flights. It’s the only way to sleep soundly no matter what seat you’re in, keeping your head from bobbing all over the place. Must sleep on flights and wake up ready to go!

3. Cashmere Track Pants - These straight leg pants are my newest addition to the ultimate airport uniform. The airport uniform is an ever evolving art. But these feel more chic than typical sweats, and I’d dare say you could land and head straight to apéro.

4. Dewy Monday Body Oil Testers - The perfect size for vacation. I take a new scent on every trip. An antioxidant-rich body oil that’s not only nourishing and revitalizing, but leaves you smelling wonderfully all day.

5. Nomad 65w MacBook charger - A 65w charger for your MacBook that’s lightweight and perfect for traveling.

   1. Or honestly any portable charger, whether it’s for your computer or iPhone. I never want to bring it (for some reason it just feels like another weight) but I’m always thankful when I need it.

6. GoodWipes - Infused with tea tree oil, ginseng, and peppermint, these wipes are a lifesaver during and after long flights. Gentle on sensitive skin, they’re perfect for face and body.

7. Jet Lag Eye Patch : Hydrate and refresh your eyes with these patches. Wear them during the flight and arrive at your destination looking your best and feeling your best.

8. Probiotic : If you're regular, you're comfortable.

9. Cashmere Wrap : The chicest way to stay warm on your flight! Then after you land, dress up your outfit for a night out by draping your shoulders in cashmere.

10. Lastly, eat before your flight or bring your own meal and skip the airplane food. I don’t care how hungry I get, it’s never worth it!

We check in and eagerly toss our bags into the room. It instantly feels like coming home. A bottle of wine and handwritten note is already waiting for us. The rooms are sun-soaked, perfectly blending organic tones with coastal textures. Beds are dressed in Bellino fine linens, and hanging in the bathrooms are custom bathrobes created in collaboration with Parachute Home. I could stay here forever!

The Proper SM has a couple bars and restaurants to enjoy during your stay.

The lobby-lounge-bar, Palma, is my favorite spot for pre-dinner drinks… and post-dinner drinks… and sometimes everything in between. The seating situation alone makes me want to throw out every piece of furniture I own and start all over. This eclectic space invites you to settle into an intimate nook or stretch out on one of the stunning couches, sit back, and feel inspired. Palma features a creative, California-rooted menu with Italian influence.

Days here are best spent on the rooftop, poolside, with the Pacific Ocean as your backdrop. Eat at the Calabra Rooftop on the sundeck or sip cocktails at the circular bar. Indulge in vibrant Mediterranean dishes and chilled natural wines. Is there any better combo on a sunny day than Greek fries + a crisp Sauvignon Blanc?

Explore LA Coast on your maps.

Spend the night at The Proper.

700 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica CA 90401

Then, after many centuries, came the corkscrew (initially known as the bottlescrew). Now, I’ve drunk a lot of wine, attended countless tastings, and opened my fair share of bottles… yet somehow, I never knew the origin of this ingenious tool! But when it comes to opening wine, corkscrews have always been a necessity. There’s something undeniably romantic about the ritual: presenting the bottle, extracting the cork, discussing the vintage and history about to be experienced. No screw caps, and automatic or electric openers won’t do.

The corkscrew, an invention designed to remove corks swiftly, seamlessly, and cleanly, has an origin story shrouded in mystery and speculation. Perhaps that’s why it’s a tale few have heard before!

While exploring Los Olivos on a recent trip to Santa Barbara Wine Country, we stumbled upon an antique store, Pumacasu, full of vintage corkscrews and bottle openers. Carlos, infamous corkscrew collector, immediately greeted us and began to tell us fantastic tales of his collection. Each treasure, a piece of history. A work of art made for every day use. Carlos held up a corkscrew with bristles on the handle and began to brush a bottle of wine.

“Do you know what this was used for?”

We all lean in for the lesson.

“Someone shows you the wine bottle, pours you a taste. You put it in your mouth, you show that you’ve tasted it and you say ‘okay,’ and then he serves all your guests. You have no idea what you just did. Nobody ever explained to you what sommelier means. Who is he? Why did he just do that to your bottle with the towel and not wash it in the kitchen? Why did he have to smell the cork? Why did he pour me first? And why did he afterwards pour everybody else and then he started talking about the quality? Thats funny, I don’t know that history.”

And it’s true, we didn’t. We sit around a table, night after night, and engage in these traditions and rituals, not really sure why. Absolutely captivated to know why.

“Well, that was created by the French in 1910 to sell expensive French wine. The original protocols call back to the 1800s. And then, if you’re a hoity-toity aristocrat, you will go to auctions in London and you will buy yourself, in particular, the first corkscrew ever patented. The first corkscrews, for the aristocrats, that triggers all these protocols. ”

Now the inventor remains unknown, historians speculate that the corkscrew was inspired by gun worms used by soldiers in the 1630s. These tools, designed to extract stuck bullets or unburnt powder from firearms, had a similar twisted metal helix that could easily have been adapted later on to remove corks. The first recorded patent however, was granted in 1795 to Reverend Samuel Henshall, an English clergyman.

“The protocols were not created for tasting wine. The protocols were created because your guests were scared of your water, because plague and typhoid fever is rampant, and they know that if you wash the bottle of wine, they aren’t drinking your wine. So you better bring the bottle dusty from the cellar. They also know that Alexander the Great was killed at a wine gathering. Intrigue! So they’re gonna come with the thought in mind, ‘I wonder what the bitch wants us at the party for.’ Well girls, keep your eyes on the Bottler… you know him today as Sommelier.”

These days, when I think of wine and drinking and corkscrews, I immediately think of sommeliers. Whether it’s the polished expert at a fine dining restaurant or how I’d amusingly refer to myself while opening a beautiful bottle to enjoy on the couch. But the term sommelier has its own fascinating history.

“The French invented the word (sommelier) in 1910. He was originally called ‘Bottler’. The bottle - Bouteille in French. Eventually the Bottler does such a good job for you that you decide to call him Butler and make him in charge of all your servants. So the original sommelier is really the butler, originally the Bottler who brings you the bottle from the cellar.”

The word sommelier comes from the Old French term "soumelier," which originally referred to someone responsible for transporting supplies for a noble household or a traveling caravan.

Carlos continued his interpretation of how aristocratic dinners went back in the day.

“So Bottler, the girls are coming for dinner, so bring the bottle but don’t wash it. Bring it dusty. If you wash the bottle they won’t drink my wine!

Why milady?

Scared of plague, and typhoid fever is rampant. People are dying by the thousands. If you wash the bottle they’re gonna be afraid that the water touched the bottle and when you pour the wine it may contaminate the wine.

Okay, so what do I do?

You’ll bring a duster and you’ll present it. You’ll show the label. Two hundred years from now they’re gonna call you ‘sommelier’ and you’re going to present wine to everyone and they’re gonna think you’re showing the label - but no. You’re saying to look how dusty it is. Two hundred years from now you’ll rub the bottle down with a towel and clean it with a towel (or wine napkin) to show that no water touched it. You’re going to use the Thomason corkscrew and you’re going to brush it.”

The Thomason Corkscrew is a decorative and efficient design with a rack-and-pinion mechanism.

Carlos continued, “But milady, this looks like a shaving brush!”

Appearing in the late eighteenth century, these corkscrews with brushes were made with pig bristle and later replaced with artists’ paintbrushes and shaving brushes. They were used to dust off labels and tops of bottles in front of guests. But why dust off with a brush instead of a damp cloth?

“All the men in the 1600s shave with badger hair brushes because it rejects water. No water, no bacteria.

Okay I understand the brush. But now the ivory (handle)? You kill an elephant for this?

Yes, you fool. We, aristocrats, use utensils that are made of ivory because it has no pores. No pores, no bacteria. Ivory is antiseptic. And we die because we don’t have penicillin. So for us all of this is (a matter of) life and death.

Okay milady, I got the point of this. Now what about this?” he says pointing at the cage beneath the handle.

“Well they are all going to be looking at your hands when you open the bottle of wine. Alexander the Great syndrome. Alexander the Great died at a wine gathering and they still to this day don’t know who the hell killed him. And everyone knows he died two weeks after a wine gathering and eventually thought wine poisoning. So there’s intrigue. They’re gonna be looking at your hands. So tonight, you will open the wine with the Thomason corkscrew so you don’t touch anything.

The worm goes in and you slowly bring it (the cork) up, then you reverse it and the cork will drop on the table. Then hand it to me to smell it.

Why are you going to do this in front of your guests?

Because I’m going to put it up to my nose and give them the opportunity to smell it to see it was not opened the night before, you fool. To avoid intrigue. I’m going to say ‘oh very fruity, very romantic, very tasty.’ Then they will say ‘Oh allow me! Delightful, very fruity, very tasty. Thank God, the bitch is not trying to kill us, because this cork has not been opened last night, and it’s freshly taken out. Smells strong.’ You will then pour me a little and I will have a taste of it and say ‘Oh delightful’. Then they will know they do not have to worry about dying because I have just proved to them that the wine has not been poisoned.”

We looked at each other with amazement.

“So wait a minute you are telling me that these protocols that we use now for fear of disease and fear of intrigue are going to exist in countries like America, in places like California, in a little town called Los Olivos? And they don’t know what they’re doing and why they’re doing it? Well, yes. These protocols were created in the 17 and 1800s by the aristocrats for fear of disease and fear of intrigue. And in the 1880s the water was good because we invented the sewer system (The modern sewer system emerged in the 19th century as cities grew and sanitation became increasingly necessary). So nobody had to worry so much about plague and typhoid fever. Intrigue receded because we aristocrats didn’t kill each other, so they weren’t dead. But the French in 1910 were worried about losing too much French wine so they had a big meeting and said ‘Hey why don’t we bring the protocols of the 1700s and let’s invent a new word.’ You know the Bottler that brings the bottle from the cellar? And the guy during the day, we call him Sommer. Which means, in charge of the bête de somme - or beast of burden.”

The word itself is derived from "somme," meaning a pack or load, which was carried by a bête de somme, or pack animal. As wine became more integral to aristocratic dining culture, the role of the sommelier evolved. No longer merely a handler of goods, the sommelier became the guardian of the wine cellar, even selecting vintages and eventually serving them to guests.

“He’s in charge of the mules, puts the grapes on top of the mules, brings them to the castle and we ask him, ‘master of the grapes,’ make the wine and put it in the cellar. And at night, dress up, and you’ll be the Bottler. So he’s the Sommer, in charge of bête de somme, during the day, and the Bottler at night. So let’s create a new word (by combining the two) and we make him a wine expert. He comes and explains to the people the importance of wine, how it’s made, the roots and all this, and then we charge a lot of money for French wine. Fantastic!”

As wine culture flourished across Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries, the demand for cork-removal devices grew. And if there’s one thing I know, nothing motivates innovation like the promise of opening a lovely bottle of wine. During this time, several versions of the corkscrew emerged, including:

The Thomason Corkscrew – a decorative and efficient design with a rack-and-pinion mechanism.

The Lever Corkscrew – which provided extra leverage for easier cork removal.

The Folding Corkscrew – a compact, pocket-sized version perfect for travelers.

And so, from corkscrews to sommeliers, history has gifted us not just the tools to enjoy wine, but the rich traditions that elevate the experience.

The Bottlescrew, whose worth, whose use

All men confess that love the juice.

- Nicolas Amhurst, ‘The Bottle Scrue, A Tale’, Poems on Several Occasions (London, 1732).

This is the oldest-known poetic reference to a corkscrew.

The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern is a stay you won’t want to end. From the moment you arrive, the romance here is undeniable. It’s the kind of place you could check into and never feel the need to leave. The rooms are home away from home. Wake up to crisp linen sheets and sun drenched rooms. A short stroll leads you to Felix Feed & Coffee, where a handcrafted cappuccino and scratch-made pastry await, the best way to ease into the morning. Days unfold at an unhurried pace, whether soaking in the jacuzzi, lounging poolside with a glass of rosé, or indulging in pure bliss at the Lavender Barn spa.

Evenings are equally enchanting. Start with a cocktail at The Bar and cozy up by the fireplaces - a perfect setting for sharing a meal and late-night conversations. After all, Mattei’s Tavern is not just a hotel, it’s a destination for dining. The Tavern, a California ranch-inspired restaurant, showcases locally sourced ingredients, many plucked straight from the on-site garden. You couldn’t ask for more fresh and flavorful dishes!

And then there’s The Bar - perhaps my favorite spot on the property. Romantic, rustic, and utterly inviting, it feels like a hidden gem along an old road. The atmosphere is timeless, the cocktails historically inspired, and the wine list a nod to Santa Barbara’s world-class vineyards. Whether sipping a perfectly balanced Negroni or indulging in an elevated snack, this is a place meant to be savored.

*Don’t forget to enjoy a hot toddy whenever you pass by reception!
*End the night by swinging by the front desk for a s’mores kit to take home to your fire-pit.

Book your stay: The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern

2350 Railway Ave
Los Olivos, CA 93441

Consider this your curated roadmap to the best of Santa Barbara Wine Country—where to eat, sleep, and most importantly… vino!

STAY:

The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern - This Auberge Resort hotel is pure luxury. This stunning escape is located in the heart of historical Los Olivos and is the most romantic getaway. You could arrive and happily never leave the property till check-out. Enjoy the pool and spa, dine at The Tavern, sip on drinks at The Bar, and indulge in a hot toddy whenever you pass by then front desk.

Fess Parker - An intimate 19-room boutique hotel in Los Olivos. The Fess Parker Wine Country Inn has fireplaces in every room for the colder months, and a heated pool for sunny days. The hotel also has one of my favorite restaurants inside, Nella Kitchen & Bar.

Alisal Ranch - Spanning 10,500 acres in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley, Alisal Ranch offers a refined take on the Old West. This is luxury ranch living at its finest. With this stay, the nightly rate includes breakfast and dinner and feature local ingredients, as well as beer, wine and more! Come thirsty and work up an appetite with your daily adventures. And don’t forget to dress the part in the evening—dinner at Alisal is a time-honored tradition, calling for “country formal” attire since the ranch first opened in 1946. Giddy up!

The Genevieve - Formerly the Santa Ynez Inn, The Genevieve is a sophisticated retreat that exudes timeless elegance. Located in the heart of Santa Ynez, this boutique stay offers plush linens, inviting fire pits, a serene spa, and a gourmet breakfast to start your day. For an elevated dining experience, The Victor Restaurant & Bar serves up elevated dishes focused on live fire, land, and sea. Come as you are – there's no dress code. Boots, buckles, and big hats welcome!

The Landsby - Nestled in the heart of Solvang, The Landsby blends contemporary Danish design with a chic Scandinavian aesthetic. This boutique hotel features 51 thoughtfully designed guest rooms, charming courtyards, and cozy fire pits, along with its signature restaurant Mad & Vin. One of the best parts? Its prime location makes it effortless to explore downtown Solvang on foot, letting you soak in the charm of this Danish-inspired town at your own pace.

Hotel Ynez - Tucked away on two private acres in Solvang, Hotel Ynez offers a tranquil escape surrounded by lush gardens and towering oak trees. Unwind by the heated, adults-only pool or gather around the bonfire pits for a cozy evening under the stars. The rustic outdoor pavilion adds to the charm, making every moment feel effortlessly relaxed. With just 22 spacious guest rooms, this intimate retreat invites you to slow down and soak in the laid-back beauty of California wine country.

Skyview - Perched on a hilltop, overlooking Los Alamos, Skyview is an iconic mid-century motel turned into a stylish modern-day oasis. Stay on one of the 33 rooms at this five-acre outpost and enjoy the many amenities such as Norman restaurant & bar, adult-only pool, and a vineyard producing the house rosé. What more could you ask for?

The Bodega House - A renovated 1920s farmhouse on site at Bodega in Los Alamos.

Behind the paywall:

• Where to enjoy the best breakfast, lunch & dinner.

• Food + wine pairings - the Los Olivos way.

• Tasting rooms that can’t be missed.

• The most dreamy rolling vineyards.

• Where to shop for the best souvenirs.

• A crazy taxi driver to call at the end of the night. Crazy as a June bug but you’ll get to your destination.

• Friday night plans.

• A photo gallery to inspire you for your upcoming getaway!

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A souvenir not just of place, but of a state of mind.

With every vacation, the Ash Vacanza collection expands. Each ashtray a relic from a Parisian café table, a seaside ristorante, an Italian villa, or an aperitivo bar at golden hour. More than objects, they are invitations to pause, reminisce, and embrace the art of slowing down—wherever you are.

Shop the full collection.

Shop the full collection here.

ON THE ROCKS

Garnish with an orange peel

Try a Negroni Sbagliato, a “mistaken/incorrect” Negroni. Swap gin for prosecco!

In 1919, the Negroni was invented in Florence, Italy at Caffe Casoni (now Caffè Giacosa). It is said that Count Camillo Negroni asked Forsco Scarselli, a friend of his who was a bartender, for a stronger Americano, his favorite cocktail. He replaced the soda water with gin, and the lemon garnish for an orange garnish. The Negroni was born.

* Try swapping out Campari for Caffo Red Bitter Liqueur. Sweet oranges and bitter Calabrian chinotto oranges grown and harvested directly from Caffo properties are blended with an infusion of several herbs and spices, juniper, rhubarb, and gentian, to create this high-quality bitter.

SIGHT

Pour a quarter of your glass with wine, making sure to hold the glass by the stem rather than the bowl. This prevents the heat from your hands from altering the wine’s temperature and affecting its flavor.

As you let the wine breathe, tilt your glass at a 40-degree angle and observe. What colors do you see— rosso or bianco? Is the wine clear or cloudy? Check the viscosity by swirling the glass; do long, slow-moving legs form along the sides? These visual cues offer insight into the wine’s age, alcohol content, and quality.

Note: Red wines often develop natural sediment over time. This occurs due to polymerization, a process where pigment compounds and tannins bind together and settle at the bottom of the bottle or glass. It’s completely normal and can even be a sign of a well-aged wine.

NOSE

Before taking your first sip, take a moment to appreciate the aromas. Smell the wine right after pouring, then swirl the glass and sniff again. Swirling increases the wine’s surface area, releasing aromatic compounds and allowing oxygen to help open up its bouquet.

What aromas do you notice? Fruity, spicy, oaky, or earthy notes? Each scent gives you clues of the grape variety, terroir, and aging process.

Pro Tip: If something smells off—like musty, damp cardboard—it could be a sign that the wine is corked.

PALATE

Now, for the best part—tasting!

Take a sip and let the wine coat your mouth. Roll it over your tongue to expose it to all your taste buds, analyzing the levels of sweetness, acidity, and tannins. What flavors emerge? Do you detect dark berries, citrus, cracked pepper, vanilla, or even leather?

For a deeper sensory experience, try aspirating the wine:
Purse your lips as if you’re about to whistle, take in a small slurp of air, and exhale through your nose. This technique enhances aromatics and helps you pick up more nuanced flavors.

Finally, pay attention to the finish. How long do the flavors linger after swallowing? A lingering aftertaste of a minute or longer is often a sign of a well-rounded wine.

Most importantly—ti piace? (Do you like it?)

The Art of Blind Tasting

Let’s put your skills to the test with this Sommelier’s Challenge! Print the chart below, grab a bottle, and see how much you can identify based on sight, aroma, and taste!

For an added challenge, wrap the bottle in a brown bag to keep the label hidden. Pour yourself a generous glass and use the sheet to evaluate what type of wine you’re sipping on!

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We’ve compiled the perfect vino list for such an occasion…

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You can see La Guardia Hotel on the coast as you arrive to the port, welcoming you with open arms. The rainbow of buildings that line the shore, lead you to the boutique hotel at the end of the road. 

Once arriving it's only a three minute walk from the ferry to the hotel.  Flaminia Pérez del Castillo, owner and General Manager of the hotel, has really created an oasis on the water. Rooms overlook the harbor and sea, perfectly mixing minimalism with bohemian chic. The bright and airy rooms are accentuated with calming neutral tones, wooden and seagrass furnishings, and tall breezy grasses. 

While staying here you wake up to the most stunning sunrises, as the sun emerges over Monte Argentario, and fall asleep to the sound of water lapping the shores outside your window.

Eat at Terrazza every morning. It's the perfect start to your day and may be one of the best hotel breakfasts I've ever had. Dinner here is lovely as well. Enjoy your meal with a view of the harbor, and the sound of water lapping the shore below you. 

La Guardia Hotel: Via Thaon de Revel 45, 58012

Isola del Giglio (GR), Tuscany, Italy

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PLACES TO GO:

Porto - Stroll up and down port, and view the rainbow of buildings that line the water. Here is fun to pop into the various shops for souvenirs, clothes, local wines and spices. Take many breaks on your walk, switching between coffees and spritzes. 

Giglio Castello - The castle village on the top of Giglio Island. Walk through the maze of streets and alleyways. Stop by Bar Balocchi for a glass of wine before dinner.

Cannelle Beach - Take the winding road to this sun soaked stretch of sand carved out along Giglio’s coast.  If you have forgotten your floatie don’t worry, you’ll pass the floatie graveyard as you make your way to your lounge chair. Remnants of sun bathers who had the same idea. The attendant who sells you your lounger for the day will also blow your floatie up for you. In between mid morning naps, soak in Cannelle’s glittering tide until it’s time for lunch. The perfect pairing to your sunkissed skin and salty lips is their spaghetti vongole, eagerly washed down with a glass of vino bianco.

Spiaggia dell'Arenelle - Come to this beach and lay out on the red and blue loungers while you wait for the best lunch on the island. Enjoy your mid-morning with a creme caffè or caffè shakerato, and go for a swim or take a nap in the sun. The kitchen opens for lunch at 12:45. Get in line and get ready to order the Spaghetto allo Spruzzo di Balena - a simple pasta dish with not so simple flavor. Spaghetti with tomatoes, anchovies, parsley, and breadcrumbs, combined to perfection. Is there anything more heavenly than eating a beautiful pasta, with your toes in the sand, and a view of the blue waters at Spiaggia dell'Arenella?!

Punta di Capel Rosso - Continue down the only road that goes past the castle and go further than you think possible. Through cliff-sides, canopied pine trees, and long stretches of vineyards, sweet air wafts coastal sea breeze and wild sage past you. Soon you reach the hiking trail where you will continue the adventure on foot. Follow “Al Mare” signs until Faro Capel Rosso, the tall red and white striped lighthouse, comes into view. Continue past until you reach the end of the island. Steps carved into the stone lead you to gin colored waters. I’m talking Bombay Saphire blue waters.  Refresh yourself with a life-changing swim before making the journey back.

Faraglione Campese - Park as far down Campese as you can and make your way to the trail head just past La Miniera restaurant. This hike is a mix of shaded and sunny areas, taking you up and down the cliff side that lead you to the big rocks that jut out of the sea, at Punta Faraglione. Before you leave, don't miss taking the other trail at the for in the road, Cala dei Pozzarelli, and take a dip in the ocean at this intimate little cove.  

Caletta del Saraceno - A cute and intimate little cove just steps from the port. 

BREAKFAST:

Terrazza at La Guardia - one of the best hotel breakfasts I've ever had. Beautiful, well curated, and delicious. Enjoy sunrise and you sip a cappuccino and watch the boats come into the porto.

Bar Solari, Caffe Ferraro, Bar Pierina, and Pasticceria Fausto in Porto are also great options for a second caffè and cornetto. (Hot days call for a crema di caffè.)

LUNCH:

Bar Arenella - (Da Fiore Di Bartoletti Antonello E Lavoratori Verusca Snc_) - This is the restaurant at the far end of Spiaggia dell'Arenella. Come early while enjoying the morning sun and enjoy a cappuccino and pastry here. Then for the real main event, start getting in line early as the kitchen opens for lunch at 12:45. Order their world famous, Spaghetto allo Spruzzo di Balena! It is absolutely divine. A simple pasta in ingredients; tomatoes, anchovies, capers, parsley, and anchovies. But nothing about the flavor is simple! It's beautiful, complex, delizioso, and something I dream about all year until I'm back. Wash it down with a caraffa of vino bianco, and upon paying your bill take a shot of Giglio's gin. Salute! 

Ristorante Bar Cannelle on the Beach - This is the restaurant at Cannelle beach. If you arrive early, enjoy a delizioso cappuccino. When lunch time comes around, the restaurant works as a sort of cafeteria, where you get a tray and stand in line. Order from the pre-made salads and other various dishes, or order a specially made pizza or pasta. 

DINNER:

Terrazza - This is the restaurant at La Guardia hotel. Very chic and delizioso! Creative dishes, fresh ingredients, and a stunning view of the harbor make for a fabulous meal. I get the most dressed up for these dinners as the walk back to the room is quick. 

Pizzeria Giglio - Set in Giglio Castello, indulge in a pizza night at one of the tables weaved through the alleyways of the castle.

Ristorante da Maria - My favorite restaurant inside the walls of Giglio Castello, in a historic 17th century building. Take a break from the sea and enjoy a steak tonight.

Sopravvento (12:30-3PM, 7:30PM-11PM) - This restaurant is a true gem on the island. The most elevated and exquisite dishes I’ve had, maybe ever! Set in Porto, with views of the boats, enjoy some refreshing local wine, and get ready for simply the best dinner you'll have. Buonissimo! Creative dishes, fresh fish, artistic flares, Sopravvento has it all. Order the oysters. Don't miss dessert, as they also had the best tiramisu I've ever had. 

L'acciuga: There always seems to be a sports game playing in this cute little restaurant in the port.

APERITIVO:

Tukul - Welcome to the best aperitivo ever. And I mean EVER! In the heart of Giglio Campese, the sun sets, and Tukul comes alive. Enjoy each cocktail with an elaborate charcuterie board included. It's as beautiful as the sunset you get to enjoy it with.

Bar Balocchi di Bibi Graetz - Enjoy a glass of Bibi Graetz wine on the steps of Giglio Castello.

Bar Ristorante Baia del Sole - We drank spritzes here on a sunny afternoon and it might be the best view for drinks on the island! It's located in Giglio's campground, and the restaurant sits on top of a cliff. Sun bathers lay out on the long slabs of rocks below and enjoy a quick dip into the water whenever you need to cool off. It's easy to reach and you can access the campground on the way to Campese.  

Lastly, wander up and down Giglio Porto and pop into any of the bars for a perfect aperitivo with views of the harbor. I love Bar Monti, Bar Pierina, or Terrazza La Guardia.

GELATO:

Gelateria Artigianale Da Nilo - Might be the best gelato I've ever had. The most fresh and inventive flavors, a must to end any night on the island.

Gelateria La Rosa dei Venti - Best gelato in Campese! My favorite was the cappuccino flavor with hazelnut.

STAY:

La Guardia Hotel  -  "Your Mediterranean Escape" set in Porto, just steps from the ferry.  The hotel is bohemian chic, with spacious rooms and a fabulous restaurant. A true home away from home! 

How to Reach Giglio Island:

If you are arriving by train, take the line that leads you to Stazione di Orbetello- Monte Argentario. From there you can take the bus to Porto Santo Stefano, which should arrive every 15 minutes. You can also get a driver to take you to the port. 

If you arrive by car, drive all the way to Porto Santo Stefano, where I suggest you leave your car at the parking lot, FANCIULLI.

Take the ferry from Porto Santo Stefano to Giglio Island -

Ferry lines: Toremar or Maregiglio
Tickets and timetables:

TOREMAR: www.toremar.it
MAREGIGLIO: www.maregiglio.it

Stay up to date with all things at the souvenir shop on Ash Vacanza.

In Italy, coffee isn’t just a drink - it’s a ritual. Understanding the different types of coffee and how to order them is key to enjoying the authentic Italian morning. From espresso to affogato, here’s your guide to navigating the local coffee bar like an expert. (And remember: don’t order a latte unless you’re in the mood for a glass of milk!) Stand at the bar, drink your espresso quickly, and continue your day!

Caffè - The foundation of any Italian coffee drink, a caffè is simply an espresso. In Italy, this is the go-to coffee order. Forget about drip coffee; when you want a quick, rich boost, this is your perfect choice. Un caffè (or un espresso), per favore - an espresso, please. For ordering two or more say espressi.

Cappuccino - A classic breakfast staple, un cappuccino combines equal parts espresso, steamed milk, and milk foam. Italians typically enjoy this drink in the morning and never after a meal or past 11 AM.

Macchiato - A macchiato is an espresso “stained” with a splash of frothy milk. This makes for an excellent afternoon pick-me-up. When ordering, you can say: Posso prendere un caffé macchiato? - Can I have a macchiato?

Caffè Corretto - Never too early for a bit of indulgence, the caffè corretto pairs espresso with a splash of grappa or brandy. It’s a great choice for a post-lunch digestive or even as a pre-dinner drink after a long day.

Caffè Freddo - On a hot day, the caffè freddo is a refreshing, non-alcoholic option. This drink is made by shaking espresso with ice and sugar until it forms a frothy head. It’s perfect for those moments when you need a cooling caffeine boost (although if you really want to vacation like Ash, an Aperol Spritz may be the true cure on a hot day).

Shakerato - Similar to the caffè freddo, the shakerato takes chilled espresso to the next level by adding a touch of elegance. It’s shaken with ice and often served in a cocktail glass, making it feel like a luxurious treat.

Crema di Caffè - My personal favorite. This is essentially coffee dessert in a cup. The crema di caffè is a creamy, cold espresso-based treat that’s both indulgent and refreshing - a perfect afternoon delight.

Affogato - Part dessert, part coffee, the affogato is a scoop of gelato (usually vanilla or fior di latte) drowned in a shot of hot espresso. *the best is found at Vivoli in Florence, Italy.

Other helpful coffee words & phrases :

Do you want coffee? - Vuoi un caffè?

Posso prendere un caffé macchiato? - Can I have a macchiato?

Vorrei un caffè, per favore. - I’d like a coffee, please.

Caffè in vetro - a coffee in a glass.

Tazza - Cup

Sugar - Zucchero

Ho bisogno di un caffè! - I need coffee!

Pausa caffè - Coffee break

When traveling to Italy, I typically fly via Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport. I can’t think of a better place to spend my final night in Italy than this secluded Renaissance villa. Conveniently located near both the airport and the port, it feels like a well-kept secret for vacationers. The property is set on the coast in Palo Laziale, offering breathtaking sea views and surrounded by lush gardens that enhance its tranquil atmosphere.

Guests can choose from 21 exquisitely designed rooms and suites, each reflecting the villa’s rich history and timeless elegance. Spend your day unwinding at La Posta Vecchia’s beach club or taking a refreshing dip in the indoor stone pool. The pool, illuminated by natural light that glitters off the marble and glass surroundings, is a striking feature of the hotel. Relax on the sea-facing terrace, where luxurious sun loungers invite you to soak in the views and the sea breeze.

As the day transitions to evening, indulge in aperitivo at Bar Piranesi before savoring a gourmet dinner at Ristorante The Cesar. End your night listening to the gentle melodies of the piano, accompanied by the soothing sound of waves crashing just beyond the windows. At La Posta Vecchia, every moment feels like a harmonious blend of history, luxury, and natural beauty—a truly unforgettable experience.

Who can tell what the terroir will produce that day, or what colour the moon will be slipping out of the sky over the sea?

La Posta Vecchia Hotel: Palo Laziale, 00055 Palo Laziale (RM) Italia