It’s not a unique experience to feel drawn to a particular garment because it’s objectively beautiful, only to find it feels more like a costume than a natural fit when worn. I’m sure we’ve all purchased clothing because we liked the idea of being the type of person who wore such things.

This disconnect between idea and reality happens often, both when purchasing ready-to-wear clothing and when making your own. However, sewing and knitting require one to be involved in every step of the process - from choosing the fabric or yarn composition and color, to deciding which pattern to use, whether any fit modifications are made, etc. I have found that several years of sewing and knitting my own clothing has taught me more about what I like and what works well for me than decades of shopping did before.

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To be honest, the sheer level of investment (both financial as well as time spent) involved in creating your own clothing makes you pay closer attention.

Unfortunately, most of us have grown up with access to fast fashion, and it’s easier to experiment with different styles and silhouettes when clothing is so readily available, and easy to replace. The fashion industry is designed to make us buy clothing often, and discarding something that didn’t quite work for a new season’s offerings has been completely normalized.

Moral and ethical considerations aside, this model also makes it incredibly difficult to figure out what you actually like to wear. What clothing feels good when worn for years, what pieces are reached for weekly and easily incorporate into your lifestyle.

I started sewing as an adult (I’d been taught the basics as a kid) while I was pregnant with my daughter, who is now 5. Initially, I wanted to make her a couple of dresses, and the idea of having a new craft to learn while waiting for her arrival was appealing.

In retrospect, the dresses I made were unwearable. I didn’t finish the seams, I installed zippers incorrectly - but those first projects sparked an interest again to make clothing. I began to research beginner sewing patterns (many of which were free) and scoured thrift stores and the clearance bins at Joann for fabrics to learn with.

The majority of those first garments I made I no longer have. And that’s okay. I learned a lot in the first year about what colors, silhouettes, and fabrics I liked to wear. The financial investment was low, and the time spent taught me a lot.

I discovered the indie sewing community on instagram, and a world of patterns that looked similar to ready-to-wear garments I’d actually purchase. Also, the instructions were a lot better than the big four patterns I’d picked up at Joann. Enter sewing YouTube and the purchase of a slightly better sewing machine, and I was off.

Part of my immediate love for sewing and knitting stems from the fact that I am someone who gets a thrill from the act of making something from nothing. What has kept me making the majority of my wardrobe several years in, is that I have the ability to make exactly what I want to wear. I get to choose the materials and can adjust the fit to my own unique shape. What is comfortable to me can be vastly different from what might suit someone else who wears the same numerical size.

Before I learned how to make my own clothing, I didn’t have a very developed sense of personal style. I’ve always been a basic ‘jeans and T-shirt’ sort of person, and to some extent that remains true. However, with the development of my technical skills and a more considered eye for materials, color, and silhouette, I believe that my personal style has evolved for the better. I credit having a wardrobe that feels like ‘me’ largely to learning how to make clothing for myself.

I want to dive into some of the most significant and transformative moments of my journey thus far creating a handmade wardrobe. I’ve made substantial changes to the way that I think about clothing, as well as to what I’m wearing on a daily basis. If you’re just getting started with making your own clothing, or are experiencing a major lifestyle change (having children, size fluctuations, job change, etc.) I hope sharing my experience and perspective will be helpful to you.

I want to start with how I felt about clothing, style, size, and getting dressed before I learned to sew, before I became a mom, and before I had any sort of internet presence. Let’s dive in.

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All of that to say, I thought it might be interesting to share the things that have gotten me through the recent heatwave, the garments I’ve been wearing, the books I’ve enjoyed, and the projects that have helped me to be in a cooler place, mentally anyway.

Let’s start with getting dressed. I think a lot of us struggle to create interesting outfits, or even to feel comfortable wearing our handmade clothing, in the heat of summer. I have a closet full of handmade pants and long sleeve button up shirts that are worn in heavy rotation. When it becomes too hot to reach for my comfort pieces, I sometimes default to a pair of athletic shorts and an old tee shirt - pajamas basically - and that’s not a bad look, but also not one I want to wear on a daily basis.

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If you’ve been following along recently, you may know that this summer I’ve sewn what is basically a small capsule wardrobe out of a rather large cut of black cotton poplin fabric. I purchased said fabric ahead of a sewing pattern test, and subsequently created a collection of summer pieces with the remaining yardage.

These pieces have all been extremely helpful in creating outfits that I actually want to wear, that are also keeping me cool on the hottest days. I got some negative feedback on Youtube about my choice to wear black in the summer, but honestly the crisp and cool cotton poplin is incredibly breathable, and black fabric is quite practical in the heat. It doesn’t show if you’ve sweat through your clothes, and makes it far easier to go braless should you choose to. Also, wearing black feels chic and comfortable to me. If I can’t wear my usual comfort items, at least give me a safe color to wear.

I do of course have and wear other colors, but creating a selection of core basics in black poplin has made a big difference in getting dressed this summer. They go with everything else.

I’ve also noticed that for around the house, I’ve been wearing my linen tank dresses on repeat. They’re so easy to throw on in the morning and feel slightly more elevated than the aforementioned old tee and shorts.

The pattern I've used most for my tank dresses is from the Nani Iro Sewing Studio book, which I absolutely love but do acknowledge has a limited size range.

I think if you’re looking for something similar with a more inclusive size range you could check out the free Helen’s Closet Orchard Dress pattern (although it has a thinner strap and more A-line fit) or the Tessuti Alessi Bias Dress might be a good option if you want a wider shoulder.

I’ve also found myself reaching for this hand knit Sabai Top on repeat, likely because it’s one of the few summer appropriate hand knit items I have, but also because it’s chic and comfortable. This pattern by Susanne Muller is one of the most popular patterns on Ravelry for a reason. I’ve knit my version in a cotton linen blend yarn by Paton’s in the color Navy.

As I previously mentioned, during the heat of summer I am often looking for indoor activities to keep cool, and find that my reading pace picks up at this time of year. Books can be such a wonderful mental escape, and are also a big source of creative inspiration for me.

I recently recorded a knit & chat YouTube video where I shared a few of the books Ive been enjoying, and will link that here if you’re curious. I also got a wonderful list of books recommended to me from all of you over on Instagram, and will list a few below that might be worth adding to your list.

• The Last Picture Show (& Lonesome Dove) - Larry McMurtry

• Wild Dark Shore - Charlotte McConaghy

• After Dark - Haruki Murakami

• The Correspondent - Virginia Evans

• Piranesi - Susanna Clarke

• Whistler - Ann Patchett

• Strangers - Belle Burden

• Mother Mary - Arundhati Roy

• North Woods - Daniel Mason

• Land - Maggie O’Farrell

I could go on indefinitely about books, but will keep it to a list of 10 for now. If you’ve read anything that’s made it into your best books of the year recently please do share in the comments below!

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When it comes to recent knitting projects, I have to admit that what I’ve been working on is in no way seasonally appropriate. Despite my love for the Sabai top pictured above, I just have not been inspired this summer to make any warm-weather knits. This could be in part because it’s been so hot recently, even the thought of a knit tank feels uncomfortable.

So, I’ve decided to focus instead on making projects that I very much look forward to wearing this fall when the temperatures drop. Some of you may know that this year has been the year of sock knitting for me, and I am very much still in that mode.

I have however, been working on a sweater as well. The Louvre Sweater by Petite Knit, which I’m using Paton’s Classic Wool Worsted in a charcoal grey color for. What I love about this pattern is how simple and classic the silhouette is. A raglan construction works up fairly quickly, I love a mock neck, and the relaxed, oversized, fit is ideal for layering.

There are loads of classic raglan sweater patterns out there, I chose this one because there was a sale going recently offering buy one get one free from Petite Knit. The second sweater pattern I picked up (the Saga Sweater) is one I’m excited to start soon, however I don’t have yarn for it chosen just yet. I do think a lighter color might be the way to go, in order for all of the details to shine.

I would love to hear what you all have been working on, both knitting and sewing wise. There are so many projects I’m excited to dive into soon, particularly for the upcoming cooler seasons.

Let me know what you think about this format, sharing monthly favorites and a roundup of what I’ve been making. Would you like to hear about books in a more in-depth way in the future? Would what I wear in a week be interesting? Always appreciate hearing what you enjoy. Thank you again for being here.

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Part of the joy that comes from making my own clothing is indeed the planning stage. There is so much potential in possibility, and of course excitement around adding new pieces to my closet.

We’ve officially reached the halfway point of 2026, and I think it’s a good time to reflect on our wardrobes.

Some of the plans I made have come to fruition, and I’ve added a few garments that feel like a second skin at this point. However, there have been a few flops as well, and some of my initial inspiration no longer feels worth pursuing.

When I’m caught up in the cycle of inspiration - gathering materials, finding the right pattern, and of course the actual making of a garment, it can be hard to view my wardrobe holistically.

I thought it would be fun to look back at everything I’ve made so far this year, and evaluate the patterns I’ve noticed around what has worked and what hasn’t.

As I mentioned, the start of a new year often involves a lot of project planning. I actually made a YouTube video in January about everything I hoped to sew in 2026, and I revisited it recently to see if I’ve followed through with those plans.

The general goal I expressed was to make less, but better. I’ve been sewing for enough years to have built quite an extensive wardrobe at this point. However, the process of creating a well worn wardrobe does require editing and refining along the way, and from time to time new pieces are useful to incorporate.

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A few of the projects I wanted to make at the start of the year have been completed. An ecru pair of Matchbook Jeans, and a lined tote bag for example. I’ve also kept on track with more general goals, such as using up fabric scraps and being more intentional about what fabric and patterns I purchase.

However, I’ve made several garments that weren’t even on my radar at the start of the year.

This often happens and isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Creative inspiration can arrive unexpectedly, and acting on those impulses is indeed part of the joy of creating. It goes without saying that ideally one can do just that while keeping in mind a more holistic perspective.

So let’s get into it, let’s look at what I’ve sewn and knit in the last six months, and hopefully learn a bit from the process that I can take with me into the second half of the year.

(I’ve also made a YouTube video if you’d like to see each item in more detail as well as a chat about the creative process.)

At the start of January I had jeans making on my mind, and the first pattern I tried was the Daughter Judy Matchbook Jeans. I actually made my first version of the pattern at the end of December, but am counting them as I quickly made a second pair. This was a pattern release I’d been anticipating, and honestly it did not disappoint.

For the first pair I used a 12oz non stretch indigo denim, and the second an ecru 11oz natural bull denim. The fit is relaxed, with a mid rise and slightly tapered leg that ends right around the heel. A perfect, comfortable, everyday jean. I’ve gotten loads of wear out of both pairs.

I also tried the Closet Core Frank Jeans when they were released, and I was particularly interested in the high rise, barrel leg view.

The first pair I made were my true size, and subsequently I made a pair two sizes up. Both fit, but have a very different silhouettes and styling opportunities.

I will say that the Frank Jeans are intended to have a close fit to the body, and I knew going into making them that I wanted a more relaxed fit. Choosing to make my true/recommended size on their chart was to get a baseline feel for how the jeans were going to fit, and as I said, I do like the more fitted pair…but I did want a relaxed barrel jean and would recommend sizing up a couple of sizes if you too are looking for that silhouette.

One of the goals I had at the start of the year was to make a fully lined tote bag, with the intention of using up scrap fabrics and producing knitting project bags.

I ended up making a few, and will highlight the brown Japanese denim version that I sewed up alongside a video tutorial for YouTube, in case you are looking for a tote sew-along. I’m really pleased with how they turned out, in particular the way I managed to create a flat bottom so that the totes can basically stand on their own with a few skeins of yarn inside.

Let’s pivot to knitting for a moment, as this year was a transformative one for me in that area. Prior to this year, I always thought that I would never be someone who knits their own socks. Something about the tiny needles and fingering weight yarn sounded fiddly to me, and similar to sewing intimates, I just wasn’t interested when store bought versions are readily available.

Well, once again trying something that felt intimidating has proven to be quite rewarding, enjoyable even. I’m fully on board with sock knitting now.

My first pair were a basic stockinette version, from Summer Lee’s The Sock Project. I used Cascade Heritage in Christmas Red, and fell in love. The fit was a little loose however, so for my second pair I sized down to a US1 (had used 1.5) and also did a 2x2 rib instead of the stockinette stitch of the first pair.

I think it’s clear looking at the above photos, that the ribbing makes for a much nicer/closer fit. They also feel more dense and cozy. The yarn for my second pair is Sandnes Garn Sisu, and they’re perfect. I am going to try again with Cascade Heritage with a ribbed sock, and see how I feel about that combo. I’ve also picked up a few other sock yarns to try, and will report back as to which are my favorites.

My most worn knitting project of the year is probably my Winter’s Pullover by Ozetta. I used the recommended yarns, Letloppi and Einband held together, both in navy. The result is an oversized, extremely warm and cozy sweater. It’s perfect for Winter, and can honestly be worn as outerwear in the Spring and Fall as well.

A close second (aside from my socks) is my red Weekend Hat by Petite Knit. I used two strands of Cascade 220 fingering weight held together, and it’s the perfect pop of color when everything is grey outside.

I also knit a gift garment this year, which is something I haven’t done a lot of but would like to try to do more often. I used Petite Knit’s Stockholm Slipover V-Neck and added to the length to accommodate a male body. I think it worked really well.

In addition to trying a new type of knitting project, I also tried a new-to-me sewing pattern designer, Indigo Indigo. I’d seen a few of their designs made by others on Instagram, and decided a good place to start was their Workshop Jacket. What drew me to the pattern (among many other chore coat patterns available) were the clean finishes and unique collarless version.

The result ended up being something I wore multiple times a week before the heat of summer arrived, and I am keen to try some of their other patterns. I believe they sell fabrics as well. There was enough fabric leftover to make a matching pair of Pomona Shorts.

Speaking of Pomona Shorts - a pattern by Anna Allen - I had the opportunity to test the kids version of the pattern. Like the adult equivalent, there are shorts as well as a tapered and wide leg pant included in the pattern.

Testing sewing patterns is a great way to try new styles, and I found this particular test to be quite useful in regard to my goal of using up scrap fabrics. I managed to cut out several pairs of shorts for my children without buying any fabric, and I’ve got plans to make them pants in the Fall.

Another sewing pattern I had the opportunity to test recently is the Modern Sewing Co. Paloma top. It has unique channels of fabric that can be adjusted and tied to customize the fit at both the waist and shoulders.

I chose to sew my version in a black cotton poplin, and along with the sleeveless design and splits at the hem, it makes for a very breezy summer top. Some of you may know that the purchase of said black poplin led to several other sewing projects in succession, and in total I think I’ve made five garments with the same fabric thus far. I won’t go into detail about all of them, but will link the Youtube video where I do just that in case you’re interested. Turns out poplin fabric is perfect for this heatwave.

The majority of my projects thus far have been successful, however there were a few that fell a bit short. One that comes to mind is in no way a complete failure, but the sewing process was needlessly complicated, and required a lot of unpicking. The garment in question being a Vogue/Rachel Comey V1799 dress. I’ve written about this project before so I won’t go into specifics, but this was definitely a project that after finishing it I needed some distance from. Not an unusual experience when working with big four patterns, and I should have known going into it, but nevertheless quite frustrating.

One of the biggest takeaways I’ve found so far this year is that I’m learning more and more what I actually like to wear, and to make. I’ve done a couple of wardrobe declutters this year, and there were certainly commonalities about the garments I chose to let go of.

A few of the common characteristics of the garments I chose to pass on were fit (i.e. being uncomfortable to wear) color, fabric quality, practicality, and style. These probably sound obvious, but can be hard to be honest about when the items are handmade.

I can say that regarding fit I’ve learned that oversized is better, for me anyway. Comfort is king, both physically as well as stylistically. I feel better in relaxed clothing, and I like how I look in it. Relaxed garments are likely to fit for years to come, while fitted items may not.

I’ve learned a lot about fabric quality over the years, and unfortunately many of the items I declutterred were let go of because cheap fabric doesn’t hold up with wash and wear. Not to say that quality fabric has to be expensive, but paying attention to the weight and composition of fabric (as well as yarn) makes a huge difference.

Creating my own clothing is incredibly rewarding, but it’s also a process of trial and error. I hope that going forward I can make garments that will align with my personal taste as well as my lifestyle. Ultimately, for now, I think that involves making less. I have many beautiful garments that I’ve made over the years, and I want to wear them! I plan to continue to sew my stash fabrics, hopefully into projects that I’ll love, but I want to be more intentional about bringing in new fabric or patterns.

I would love to know how you’re feeling about your creative journey now that we’re midway through the year. Have your plans changed? Are you inspired to make anything in particular in the coming months?

Thank you again for being here, I look forward to chatting with you soon!

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I recently found myself searching for a new sewing pattern…something that would match the style of a specific garment I’d been seeing and wanting to recreate. As someone who makes the majority of their own clothing this is a frequent occurrence. I see a garment being worn by someone stylish or in a seasonal ad, and think to myself that there is certainly a sewing pattern out there I could use to create my own.

However, I’ve been sewing for 5+ years now, and have acquired quite a lot of patterns in that time. There has to be a point when the solution isn’t another sewing pattern, right? I’m no pattern designer (nor do I desire to be) but I think after making enough garments you’re probably able to modify and adjust fit and style. Theoretically.

The garment in question this time - a slightly oversized, wide leg, a-line shaped, elastic waist pair of shorts.

This style sounds simple enough to recreate, and I thought surely I have a pattern in my stash already that I could use.

Well, unfortunately all of the pants and shorts patterns I own weren’t quite right.

I have elastic waist shorts patterns, of course. However, when looking through all of them I found that each one differed from my vision in some way. For instance, I didn’t want a zip fly. I didn’t want front pleats and tailored pockets. I wasn’t looking for side splits, ties, buttons, etc.

What I wanted was very simple, and I didn’t have a pattern for it.

So, I went online and started looking for a basic A-line shorts pattern. But before I got too deep into the search I already felt a bit of fatigue around the whole process ahead. Buying a pdf pattern, printing it, tracing and cutting pattern pieces, figuring out size and fit only after all of that.

Which leads me to the impulsive three hours of creative experimentation over the weekend that resulted in exactly the pair of shorts I wanted.

I started with the Pomona Shorts by Anna Allen. This pattern was fresh in my mind as I had just recently been a tester for the kids version of the pattern. It’s a very basic design, there is only one pattern piece and no side seams.

The shorts view, though, isn’t exactly the wide leg/a-line shape I’d been looking for. I decided that it must be simple enough to modify the pattern piece, right? Cut a line up the center of it, spread the bottom to allow for a wider leg, and that would be it.

It ended up being almost that simple, and I wanted to share the process with you in case you have this (very popular) sewing pattern and are looking to make a pair of shorts with a similar silhouette this summer.

I should note, I have made the Pomona shorts for myself many times and really enjoy them, I just wanted a different fit. My familiarity with the construction also made this a relatively quick process.

This is where I started. I chose to use a size 2 up from my normal size in this pattern. (Typically a US4, this is an 8). I knew the waist would fit however I wanted it to, as it’s gathered with elastic, and I really wanted to ensure that the legs had a nice roomy fit.

I centered the pattern piece on my cutting mat and cut a straight line up the center, not quite all the way to the top. I then spread the bottom out about 3.5 inches and taped some paper to the back to fill the gap I’d created.

Now, I know the above photo is a bit hard to see the details of, as its tracing paper on muslin fabric. I shared a bit of this process on my insta stories as I was going, and someone asked for clarification as to what I changed about the bottom of the pattern piece. You may notice that I’ve removed some of the pattern paper at the bottom of the shorts. Here’s why.

Take a look at the bottom of the pattern piece (not exact, this is a freehand cutout in construction paper for illustration purposes). Before splitting it to widen the leg, the bottom hem is fairly straight with a bit of upward curve at the center. After splitting and spreading the pattern piece, the bottom is no longer this shape. In order to correct this, I ended up mimicking the shape of the original across the new width of the pattern piece, effectively shortening it a bit.

*this was drawn in Canva with my finger so forgive the quality, but the yellow line roughly shows what I’m talking about removing to preserve the original shape at the bottom of the pattern. I did something similar at the top.

I know if any of you have pattern drafting experience you’re probably laughing but remember, this was an experiment! And to be honest it turned out really well.

I did end up sewing a quick muslin but honestly didn’t need to. I was happy with the result and cut into my final poplin fabric.

The final result is pictured above.

I’m so pleased with how they turned out. Perfectly oversized, with a nice wide leg shape that I can’t feel on my skin while wearing (exactly what I was hoping for to survive the heat of summer). The black cotton poplin is the same fabric I’ve made my past several sewing projects with. It seems to just keep on going and I still have some left. I’ll likely share everything I’ve made with it soon.

In comparison to the original Pomona pants, they’re definitely wider, more A-line shaped, and a bit shorter due to the pattern changes I made.

The pair on the left are the original, sz 4. On right modified, sz 8 with added width.

Another small modification I made was to adjust the waistband channel slightly, to accommodate 1.5 inch elastic as opposed to the recommended 2 inch. I actually think I did the same with the gingham pair, without modifications so the rise might be slightly higher for it as well.

Speaking of rise, the Pomona’s are meant to sit at a high rise, natural waist place. I however, prefer to wear them at a more mid rise, just below my belly button, and in order to do that I just make the waistband elastic wider. My natural waist is probably around 28 inches and I gave these a 30 inch waistband, as they’re worn lower than my natural waist.

This is a quick video I took of initial try on, and I think you can see how they’re a bit more of a wider leg, mid rise fit here.

If you look at the pattern photos for the shorts you can see that the intended fit is a bit different, much closer to the thigh and of course, with the higher rise.

The wonderful thing about sewing is that we can make our clothing fit exactly how we want it to, regardless of sizing or intended fit of the design.

Something that I’ve learned over the years is that trusting my creative impulses, my intuition some would say, typically leads to a result that I’m more pleased with than had I just followed the standard.

This whole experiment took all of a couple hours, and gave me a feeling of satisfaction not dissimilar to purchasing a new pattern or garment. I used a pattern and materials I already had, didn’t have to print and cut anything out, and sort of just trusted the process. It was low risk, after all.

I would love to hear what you think, as well as any quick and easy modifications you’ve done to change the fit of a pattern you already own.

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Thanks so much for being here! Let me know what you’d like to read about next.

It’s been over a year now since Joann shut their doors, which caused many of us in the states to resort to ordering fabric online.

As someone who makes the majority of their own clothing, I’ve experienced the full spectrum of purchasing fabric online - from complete disappointment to surprising delight.

Today I want to share with you a few helpful tips to keep in mind when shopping online, as well as some of my favorite sites to purchase from.

What to check before checking out:

1. Fabric Content
   - This will tell you what the fabric is actually made of… cotton, linen, wool, silk, rayon/viscose, polyester, etc. This matters most, because it affects breathability, how the fabric drapes and feels, how durable it is, how it must be cared for, and how it will age with time.
   
   For example, linen is lightweight and breathable, but it creases easily and looks more casual. Cotton poplin is crisp, and can have a silky feel. Polyester will last forever, but it traps heat and pills with wash and wear. Wool is great for temperature regulation / warmth, and can add a bit of structure.
   

2. Fabric Weight
   - The weight of fabric is often measured in GSM (grams per square meter) or oz/yd (ounces per square yard). This is often one of the most significant characteristics of how fabric will look and feel as a finished garment.
   
   I’ll give you a few examples for comparison. 60 - 140 GSM will feel very lightweight, suitable for a blouse maybe. Anything under 5oz/yd can be semi sheer and very flowy or delicate feeling.
   A cotton button up might be made in a fabric that is closer to the 120/140 GSM range, and will feel more structured.
   A pair of jeans should be in the 9 to 10 oz/yd range at minimum, up to 12 oz/yd for most home sewing machines. Or (300-400GSM).
   
   Once you have a good understanding of fabric weight, you will be less likely to experience dissatisfaction with fabric ordered online that feels nothing close to what you imagined. Weight affects drape, structure, how ‘expensive’ a garment will feel, and how causal or delicate it will be.
   

3. Fabric Width
   This sounds straightforward, and it is. The width of your fabric determines how many yards you need to purchase, as well as if said fabric will work with your pattern pieces. For example, I’ve been able to make two pairs of jeans out of fabric purchased for a single pair, because it was 60 inches wide.
   Also, I’m currently testing a pattern that has individual pattern pieces that require a specific fabric width.
   
   Before knowing this, I purchased the recommended yardage for a project in a fabric that I liked the color and print of, only to discover that a 45 inch wide fabric will certainly not work if 60 inches are required. Again, it’s a simple one, but if you are new to sewing it is very important to keep in mind when shopping.
   

4. Care Requirements
   I touched on this before regarding the composition of your fabric choice, but feel it’s worth mentioning separately. Double check the care requirements before purchasing, keeping the garment you’re going to make in mind.
   Can you machine wash and dry? Has the denim been washed/pre-shrunk? Is it dry clean only? Will the color bleed? Will it need to be ironed after every wash?
   
   There are many aspects to consider around fabric care, and many of them will determine how often you wear your handmade garments.

5. Site Specifics
   This one also may be obvious to some, but again, for those new to purchasing online worth mentioning.
   Check if the website your shopping offers fabric samples. This is a great way to get a literal feel of the fabric you’re considering, as well as what the color looks like in person. Some sites offer samples for a small cost, some do not. It’s worth checking.
   Minimum spend for affordable shipping. This is particularly important if you’re ordering from another country. For example, I’m in the USA and a couple of Canadian companies (Blackbird Fabrics and Core Fabrics) have minimum spends of around $150US for free shipping. If you don’t hit that amount the customs/import fees are often high. Something to keep in mind.
   
   I’ve also experienced this from companies within the USA, having a high minimum spend for free shipping and a very high shipping fee if not met due to the weight of the fabric. Because of this, I tend to bulk order (knowing I have to spend around $100 I’ll plan multiple garment projects at once).
   
   Additionally, it’s important to take note as to whether the site prices fabric by the yard or the half yard. I’ve found that more expensive fabric stores often list price per half yard, and it takes adding to cart to realize you actually will be paying twice the listed price for the amount you need.

   
   As promised, here are a list of some of my favorite places to order from.
   
   Let me know in the comments where you order fabric / please share positive and negative experiences! Thanks again for being here, it means so much!

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   Fabric Shopping Favorites:
   
   Nick of Time
   Fashion Fabrics
   Fabrics-Store
   Big Duck Canvas
   Mood
   Blackbird
   Core
   Lyrical
   Merchant & Mills
   Stone Mountain
   Fabric Store
   Linen Lab
   
   
   

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When I was new to sewing my own clothing, I found inspiration by following fellow creatives on Instagram. Specifically, through following hashtags such as #memademay as well as pattern-specific hashtags. A couple of years ago, searching a hashtag such as #helenejeans resulted in a variety of pattern reviews, the ability to see the pattern on various body shapes and sizes, and a boatload of inspiration around fabric choice, pattern modifications, etc.

The same hashtag search today results in something quite different. You will still see some posts of individuals who have made the jeans pattern, however, you’ll also see lots of other content recommended by the algorithm to someone who may be interested in jeans in general. This can make it frustrating to find useful information around fit, sizing, and fabric choice.

When hashtags become irrelevant, monthly community events and challenges such as Me Made May become harder to follow and participate in. I follow over 1500 accounts on Insta, many of which are sewing or knitting related. Despite that, I typically see the same dozen or so creators in my feed. Content is no longer shown chronologically, and while those I follow may be posting, I’m not seeing it.

Which leads me to the second reason I think Me Made May is losing traction. Instagram, as well as all social media platforms, really prioritizes engagement. What gets engagement? Video of someone talking to camera, direct communication. There are some who participate in Me Made May this way, talking through their handmade outfit of the day. However, many don’t want to record a video talking to camera (I’d assume the majority of participants) and so their content isn’t pushed.

Algorithmic changes and failings aside, there is another side to sharing daily outfits online that can feel a bit performative. I’m sure that I won’t be alone in admitting that social media influencers (even in a niche as small as the sewing community) have influenced me to try patterns that otherwise I wouldn’t reach for.

There is nothing wrong with following trends and making the popular pattern of the season, of course. But when sewing becomes performance, when making something to share online (subconsciously or with clear intent) because it is a popular pattern that will gain traction on social media… it begins a loop that doesn’t quite align with my desire to sew a sustainable, lasting, wardrobe.

Outfits get chosen for photos, not real life. Consistency becomes performative, and participation begins to feel like pressure. And when the algorithm stops rewarding that effort… people quietly stop. I personally have chosen not to participate this year.

So, what happens when we stop thinking about posting? Which handmade garments get the most wear, and which ones aren’t worn at all? What do our outfits look like when they’re not being photographed, but worn in real life? Can we participate in #memademay without feeling pressure to perform?

I’ve been thinking about all of this leading up to MeMadeMay, and although it’s early in the month, I’ve already noticed a few patterns. When getting dressed without thinking about posting, I’ve tended to reach for the same select handmade items, and just as consistently I’ve neglected others. So I’ve started taking note.

I’m tracking what I actually wear day to day - not what I like in theory, or what I wish I wore more, but what I reach for without thinking.

Below is the breakdown so far: what’s getting worn on repeat, what isn’t, and what I’m already realizing I’d do differently if I were making certain pieces again.

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I recently finished knitting my first pair of socks, something that I never thought I’d do. For the past several years I’ve always had a knitting project on the needles, typically a sweater, sometimes a hat or scarf. Something about the idea of sock knitting felt intimidating - maybe the tiny needles, fingering weight yarn, or the perceived complexity of the heel construction.

There are certain types of garments I’m not interested in sewing, and sock knitting felt similar to those, just not for me. However, something has begun to shift in my mind lately. I just finished knitting a sweater and have been looking for the next project to cast on. It’s the season of warm weather knits, and I’ve been seeing lots of summer tops in my social media feeds.

Now, I am not opposed to knitting a wooly sweater during the summer, but I’ve been wanting to mix it up, and am not one to wear lacy knit tank tops. The only summer knit I’ve had any success with is the Sabai top, a boat neck design by Susanne Müller. Enter, sock knitting.

It was actually likely around this time last year that I had a similar feeling, and I ordered Summer Lee’s book The Sock Project. I went so far as to cast on the first pattern in the book, Basic Sock No. 1, and that’s about as far as I got.

Turns out, it is a bit fiddly knitting with tiny needles for the first time. I worked in the round until I got to the point where you had to do the heel flap and gusset, and well, put the project down for the better part of a year.

In part, the struggle was simply a mental block, a shying away from something that seemed overly complex. However, I also think I was having difficulty with my materials.

I began my first sock with small 9 inch circular needles, size US 1.5. This tight circumference was helpful while working in the round, but was difficult to handle when instructed to put half of the stitches on hold to work the heel flap. I then purchased longer cabled needles, accidentally a size down - US 1, both from Chiaogoo.

My goal was to do magic loop, a familiar technique from sweater knitting. Unfortunately this was a little difficult to do with the particular needles I’d purchased, as the metal needle bit was quite long. Sock knitting needles are often 2-3 inches, and I think the set I had were about 5 inches. This longer needle tip made the small sock circumference difficult to handle. Ultimately, I ended up using the longer cabled needles as one would straight needles to do the heel, working flat.

Difficulties aside, I did it, I finished my first sock. The sense of accomplishment I felt was genuinely great. I shared photos here on substack, and so many of you were excited for me, so supportive and kind. It seems the experience isn’t unique to me, lots of us have felt intimidated by sock knitting and also have felt truly unstoppable having learned to make them.

The second sock went significantly more smoothly, and took much less than a year to do. I ended up knitting 95% of it on the small circulars, feeling comfortable enough to do the heel with them this time around. However, having tried a size US 1 as well as the initial 1.5 needles, I discovered that I preferred the denser fabric created with size 1’s. (Also my struggle with the longer needle tips is totally personal preference, they are used by many who enjoy them.)

I mentioned this experience in a Youtube video, and a friend kindly sent me the solution to my dilemma. Small needle tip, long cable. Strangely, a hard to find product to purchase outside of shortie sets, which are often over $100. I may consider something like that in the future, but for now just wanted a Size 1, with shorter needle tips and a longer cable.

The solution was a combination of Hiya Hiya’s sock cable and their shorter Flyer tips, which can be purchased outside of a larger set. If you’re looking for a similar product, check out her site and feel free to email with specific questions, she’s super knowledgeable.

My second pair of socks has begun, using the aforementioned needle and cable combination. I’m doing magic loop, and this pair is going to be a 2x2 ribbed pattern. I’ll likely use the same heel construction as my first pair, and try something new on the next set.

I’ve also decided to try a new sock yarn. The first red pair were knit using Cascade Heritage, in the color Christmas Red. This is an affordable commercial yarn, and I will use it again. It softened nicely with blocking and felt smooth to work with.

I do want to experiment with other sock yarns, and plan to try a different kind for each pair I make for awhile, until I find my favorite. Please share your favorite sock yarns in the comments!

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For this second pair I’m trying Sandnes Garn Sisu, and I’ve also got skeins of Malabrigo Sock and Knitpicks Stroll to try next. As you can see, I’m completely hooked.

It turns out, socks aren’t that difficult to knit, they work up relatively quickly, and the result is well worth the effort. I can make them fit my foot perfectly, trying them on as I go. I can choose the color, texture, pattern, etc…all of the reasons we make our own clothing in general. And ultimately, socks are a perfect warm weather project. Super portable, lightweight, and easy to have on one’s lap during the warmer months.

I plan to knit many more pairs, for myself and for others. Another perk of sock knitting - they make great gifts!

If you too have had the pleasure of knitting your own pair of socks (or several) I would love to know what your favorite patterns, yarns, needles, or needle sets, are! I’m so pleased that I took the time to fiddle with something new, and as often happens, doing the hard thing resulted in such a sense of joy and accomplishment.

I hope you feel encouraged to try whatever new craft you’re interested in that feels intimidating. This process reminded me of the first time I tried to sew a pair of jeans…a similarly complex seeming project. I’ve now made a dozen pairs.

Thanks again for being here, I hope you’re doing well and enjoying new crafty endeavors.

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I recently finished sewing my first version of the Vogue & Rachel Comey V1799 dress pattern, and I have lots of thoughts about it!

(I did make a YouTube video about the sewing process - if you’d like to watch that I’ll link it here).

Let’s start with the basics, size and fabric choice.

There aren’t a ton of reviews to be found on social media about this pattern, but from what I could find, most people who have made the dress recommended sizing down.
The pattern is intended to have an oversized fit, however, multiple people noted that the v-neck design is quite wide, and in order to avoid the dress slipping down my shoulders, I decided to size down.

The size range for this pattern is XS - XXL, and my body measurements fell into the size medium, so I cut a small.

The fabric that I chose to work with is from Nick of Time Textiles, and it’s a stone colored 5oz Oxford Cotton. I’ll link it here if still available.

I didn’t make any fit modifications, but I did decide not to include the in-seam pockets. The way this dress is designed, the kidney bean shaped pockets sit right beneath the gathered fabric at the waistline. Typically, if a pattern comes with this style of pocket, I’ll modify it to be rectangular in shape so that it can attach at the seam above (the waist seam) as well as the side seam. I do this because I absolutely hate when pockets flop around while wearing, from the front of the leg to the back, it’s incredibly annoying. I chose to skip the pockets altogether, because it would be a bit fiddly to join the pocket bag to the gathered area.

Also, likely an unpopular opinion, but I actually prefer when skirts and dresses made of lighter weight materials don’t have pockets. I find that putting anything of any weight in the pocket, such as a phone, drags the garment down in an uncomfortable way. Typically if I’m wearing a dress I’m carrying a bag, so not having pockets isn’t a big deal for me personally.

When looking at the pattern pieces for this dress, I initially thought it was going to be a fairly simple and straightforward sew.

However, one of the biggest issues I have with Big 4 patterns is that the instructions are often not great. Terrible, sometimes. In retrospect I think had I just constructed the dress without referencing the pattern instructions I would have had an easier time sewing it.

One of the first steps of the process is to clip the corners at the two V neck points, as well as where the gathered panels will attach to the front and back of the dress. In my experience when sewing a sharp turn, or a 90 degree angle, you sew first and then clip into the seam allowance.

Doing this before sewing honestly made everything much more difficult than it needed to be.

Particularly when attaching the long rectangular pieces to the dress that are gathered at the top, having that corner already clipped made sewing the right angle at the corner really hard to do. It was fiddly, I had to undo and redo it multiple times.

Having done it I’m confident it would be easier to sew, then clip.

The second part of pattern construction that gave me a lot of issue is the way in which they tell you to do the V neck facings. I’ve sewn many a facing, and this pattern has you do it in a way I’ve never seen before, and frankly don’t understand.

I had to rip the neck facing out multiple times and ultimately decided to just create bias binding pieces and finish the neckline that way.

However, because I had already clipped the V neck points, I had to create bias tape which accommodated that 5/8 inch clip at those V points…which again, was frustrating.

I was so annoyed that the first time I attached the bias binding I didn’t give myself enough fabric at the V points to do a mitered corner or small dart, which allow for a clean point when flipped to the inside. More unpicking.

I watched a YouTube tutorial about mitering the corners using bias binding on a V neckline and it was very helpful, and I finally have a neckline that is good enough, if not perfect.

After those issues, attaching the sleeves and sewing the side seams was straightforward, and I hemmed the dress at the suggested length.

Ultimately, I do really like this dress. I think sizing down was the right choice, and my initial hesitation about the fabric color possibly being not right has been dispelled. I think it’s different enough from my skin tone that it doesn’t completely wash me out.

Going forward, I’d like to make a navy or black poplin version, and think this pattern works best with lightweight, crispy fabrics.

I hope this review has been helpful to you if you’re considering making this dress.

Thanks again for being here!

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Today I’m announcing a brand new addition to my Substack publication: Rebecca's Substack subscriber chat.

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The pattern that I’m going to be sewing this week is the Vogue/Rachel Comey V1799 dress.

For my first version I’ll be using a stone colored Oxford cotton, which I’m hoping works well as a casual, neutral, addition to my wardrobe.

What I love about this pattern is that it’s basically a simple tee shirt dress, but with elevated details. The simplicity of its design means no zips, buttons, or ties, and the interest comes with the narrow center panels, gathered sides, and a wide V neck that is mirrored at the front and back.

I think this is going to be such a good dress to wear for Spring/Summer, both as a casual house dress and a cute going out option.

Springtime feels like the perfect time to have easy to throw on, and easy to wear clothing. Here are a few other dress patterns that I think are perfect elevated basics.

The Modern Sewing Co. Sienna Dress

This is a patten that I was actually a tester of, and I love the blue linen version I made. If you’ve been wanting to try sewing pin tucks, this pattern will give you lots of practice.

I love the wider straps, dropped waist, and option to mix and match fabrics with the side panels as Hetty did with one of her samples.

This dress feels casual and modern, and could be quite dressed up or paired down depending on fabric choice.

Wardrobe By Me Big Shirt & Dress

There are several shirt dress patterns that I could mention here, but I love the oversized fit, classic details, and simple silhouette of this pattern.

The slits at the sides, gathering at the back yoke, fun collar options, and of course the fact that you get both a shirt and dress in one pattern - all make me want to add this one to my list.

I do have the Daughter Judy Genra Shirt/Dress pattern, and I actually haven’t made the long sleeve dress version yet, but I think I prefer a standard collar to the camp collar style of that one.

Sewing Therapy Tie Dress

I love this pattern as an option for an elevated basic dress. There are several ways to wear / tie it, and you can customize the fit. The sleeves can be short or long, and there is also a Tie Dress No. 2 Version that has more feminine details you can add.

Version 2 has a button or wrap front bodice, shorter frilled sleeves or longer gathered balloon sleeves, a tiered skirt, and either version offers a highly customizable fit.

Both take a fairly simple silhouette and offer ways to elevate and personalize the pattern. A wonderful option for a variety of temperatures.

Merchant & Mills Cawley Dress

Designed by Cawley Studio, this pattern is an elevated take on a classic artists smock.

The front welt pockets add such a unique detail, the in-seam pockets are practical, and the workwear/oversized aesthetic is one I know so many of us love.

This dress has all of the standard shirt features, such as the sleeve plackets and cuffs, and the traditional shirt collar. The oversized silhouette looks perfect for layering, which is ideal for Spring, and I love the navy version they’ve made with the optional belt as well. (click link to view all product photos/pattern details)

True Bias Zoey Tank & Dress

While I think it’s pretty clear from the majority of my list, I prefer an oversized fitting dress made from light woven fabrics…but I wanted to include a more fitted option that is sewn with knit/stretch fabric as well.

I particularly like the longer view of this dress (pictured above) and think this would be such a good option for spring layering. Imagine starting the day with the dress worn underneath a sweater or oversized button up shirt, and then removing the top layer during the warmer hours of the day.

It’s such a beautiful design, and while I don’t think I’ll be wearing such a fitted dress this season I know that many of you will probably love an easy to sew and wear tank dress.

There is a woven tank dress pattern that I love, but I hesitate to list it as it comes only within a book of sewing patterns that has a limited size range. However, if you’re curious, I do really love the Nani Iro Sewing Studio Book and its Tank Dress pattern.

Let me know your favorite dress pattern and what sewing plans you have for this Spring/Summer!

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Thanks for being here, I truly appreciate each one of you.

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Learning to sew didn’t just give me a new useful skill, it rewired how I see every garment.

It’s not unusual to assume that the more expensive option is better, or that certain brands are more trustworthy in regard to clothing quality. We have been encouraged to believe these things to be true, from brands who want us to pay more for their products.

A lot of what I perceived to be high quality was in actuality just good presentation.

Here’s what I’ve learned after years of sewing about what actually makes a garment high quality.

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I mentioned in a recent YouTube video that I have been on the hunt for a chore coat pattern. A few years ago it seemed like everyone on instagram was making a chore coat, and I was aware of a couple of sewing patterns that had been around for a bit.

However, when we’re taking the time to make our own clothing, we want the details to be exactly right, and none of the patterns I’d seen (some of which I’d sewn) were just what I was envisioning.

A few of the details I was looking for:
- Relaxed, unisex fit.
- Rounded patch pockets, two larger on the bottom and one smaller at the chest, (bonus points for added interior pockets).
- Classic yoke around front/collar, but no back yoke.
- Simple sleeve cuffs, i.e., no placket, no added cuffs, no buttons.
- Flat felled / enclosed seams, clean insides as well as lots of topstitching on outer.

Some of the patterns I knew of had some of these features, but none had all, until I was recommended the Indigo Indigo Workshop Jacket.

It’s always a pleasure to try a pattern from a new-to-you designer and find it to be a complete success. Indigo Indigo is an independent design studio as well as textile shop, a small family run business based in Norway.

The Workshop Jacket is one of six sewing patterns currently on their site, all of which appear to be unisex designs. It comes with two versions, one without a collar. I debated a bit as to which style to try first, but ultimately went for the collarless version, as I have many other jackets and shirts in my wardrobe - and all have traditional collars.

When it came to deciding which size to make, I took into consideration that the jacket is designed with a unisex or men’s block in mind. In my experience this tends to mean that the body will be longer and more rectangular in shape.

Because of that I started with the chest measurement, and the size recommended for me was sz. 1. However, I wanted a relaxed fit, and decided to cut a size 2. My waist measurement fell into the size 0, but again it was important to me that the jacket fit loosely at the chest and shoulders, and I anticipated a straight body going down from that point to the hem.

Also, the product photos feature the female designer wearing a size 2, and her measurements appear to be similar to my own.

For fabric, I used a 9oz brushed bull denim that had been in my stash for a bit. The color is ink/navy, and it perfectly fits into the French workwear vision. I’m not sure if it is still available, but similar fabrics can be found here and here.

Something that really attracted me to this pattern is that fact that all of the seams are flat felled, so no seam allowances are exposed on the interior of the jacket. This means that it will be stronger, and likely last longer, than garments with other seam finishing techniques.

Also it just looks clean, which is something that is important to me. The pattern has 3/4inch seam allowances to provide enough fabric to easily and cleanly create the flat felled seams, which felt simple to do even when attaching the sleeves to the body of the jacket.

I found the instructions to be clear and easy to follow. There is attention to detail in the construction as well as the format of the pattern. Overall I am very pleased with this project, and know it’s going to get loads of wear this Spring.

I even had enough fabric leftover to make a matching pair of shorts using the Anna Allen Pomona Shorts pattern.

The fit is exactly as I’d hoped, relaxed, gently oversized, comfortable and chic. This jacket is going to layer easily and pair so well with all of my other hand sewn and knit pieces. I will definitely be making this pattern again, and love that I can potentially make my partner one as well. Another reason unisex patterns are so great.

I would love to hear your thoughts on this sewing project. Have you tried any of Indigo Indigo’s patterns? I’ve my eye on their studio pants as a possible future sew as well.

Thanks again for spending some time with me today, I appreciate you!

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As the weather warms up and things begin to bloom, I’m often drawn to lighter, brighter, clothing. Spring feels like the perfect time to throw on a pair of white jeans with a basic tee or oversized button up and enjoy a book outdoors. Which is exactly what I’ve been doing while watching my kids play in the yard recently.

I thought it would be fun to share some of the bits I’ve been enjoying during the start of Spring, from jeans to knitwear to books.

I’ll start with a knitting project that I’ve picked up again after months of neglect, the Olga Jacket by Petite Knit. This is a project that I’m knitting with yarn from two completely frogged sweaters. I knit two Towns Sweaters by Ozetta at the beginning of my knitting journey and wasn’t pleased with the fit of either. However, I clearly love a blue and neutral combo, so I unwound them, washed the wool, and began a striped cardigan instead.

The initial excitement about this project waned however after row upon row of flat knitting. I’ve picked it up again and am determined to finish it this spring. I think it will pair nicely with the two pairs of white jeans I’ve sewn recently.

The jeans mentioned are a pair of Daughter Judy Matchbook Jeans (pictured above with a striped Unisex Shirt by the Modern Sewing Co. and a pair of Closet Core Frank Jeans (high rise barrel view) worn above with white tee.

I made both of these pairs using an 11oz natural bull denim from Nick of Time. It’s nice having a classic, mid rise straight leg pair as well as a more oversized barrel leg fit. Both pair so nicely with the majority of my tops, and are going to be in heavy rotation this season.

Clearly I’m into a blue and white stripe, but I’ve been thinking a lot about my handmade wardrobe’s overall color scheme recently, and have decided that I’d like to add a bit more pattern. Specifically, other colors of striped button up shirts. I’ve been browsing online for fabrics, and haven’t found anything that I love yet. I’m thinking that this might be an easy thing to thrift - men’s cotton button ups are usually abundant at the thrift. Might be a fun solo adventure to go on after spring break ends…I’ll let you know if I find any treasures.

Let’s chat books. I want to share a few that I’ve enjoyed recently, what I’m currently reading, and what’s next.

I finished Shiloh & Other Stories by Bobbie Ann Mason a month or so ago, and absolutely loved it. This book of short stories centered in western Kentucky manages to feel both intimate and universal. For someone who grew up in a rural area, these stories (which largely feature women who are evolving emotionally and intellectually past the limits of their small communities) felt relevant and modern despite being published over 20 years ago. Highly recommend.

I chatted a bit about Women in The Picture by McCormack in a recent Youtube video, so I won’t go into it too much, but basically its a work of nonfiction that discusses the way women have been represented in art throughout history, and into the present. If you’re a fan of art history or feminist theory in general, I think you’d enjoy this one. I read it while painting a self portrait and that felt particularly relevant.

Current reads: Barkskins by Annie Proulx, Beach Music by Pat Conroy, and A New Name by John Fosse.

Barkskins is a massive novel, one that I’m enjoying but that I have put down in favor of Beach Music recently. They’re both long family sagas, which I love.

Barkskins is also largely about deforestation, and it spans a much greater amount of time, some 300 years or so.

I read Conroy’s other famous novel, The Prince of Tides, before beginning Beach Music and honestly I’m surprised I’ve never read his work before now. I love his writing style, the characters are well developed, and the plot moves right along. I intend to read more of his work after finishing this.

Jon Fosse is an author I’ve read before, and A New Name is the third physical book in a series that actually contains seven parts. I believe he won the Nobel Prize for his entire body of work, however he’s known for Septology (comprising The Other Name, I Is Another, and A New Name). The way Fosse writes is very unique, it feels almost dream like in its repetition, and as the main characters are two versions of the same person, with two different life trajectories, the whole experience of reading these works feels immersive and somewhat surreal.

Running in the Family by Michael Ondaatje is next on my to be read list. I loved The English Patient and look forward to reading this family memoir, which I believe blends fact and fiction into a narrative that gives readers a glimpse of Ondaatje’s upbringing. I love reading about authors/artists and their backgrounds, and think it will be interesting to do so in a somewhat fictionalized format.

Clearly I haven’t been immune to the leather journal craze on social media…and before Christmas I ordered one for myself. However, it got stuck in customs and months later the Etsy seller sent me a replacement. Lucky for me the original showed up as well, so now I have two.

I’ve made good use of both - the smaller being the initial one I wanted - holds my Hobonichi Techo daily journal, as well as a couple of smaller notebooks that I use for knitting notes and book notes.

The larger, which was the replacement sent, now holds a thicker journal for any and all thoughts I need to explore, as well as two smaller notebooks. One of the smaller is becoming a list of quotes and ideas I want to save for later, and the other I’ve begun writing letters to my partner in throughout the year…I think it will be a nice gift to give him next Christmas, with little memories from the year saved inside.

Please let me know what you’re reading and working on this Spring. I love hearing about your projects and what’s inspiring you.

Thank you again for being here - I truly appreciate each one of you.

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Closet Core released their Frank Jeans at the start of the year, and I have since made two versions of the pattern. If you’re unfamiliar, the Frank Jeans are a modular pattern, featuring a variety of fits you can mix and match - mid or high rise, with a straight, wide, or barrel leg. I made a Youtube video reviewing the pattern in depth, if you’d like to watch it’s linked here.

The first version I made are pictured above on the left, in a 12.5 oz indigo denim, and the second pair on the right are an 11oz natural denim, both purchased from Nick of Time Textiles.

Today I want to chat with you about the sizes I chose to make, what modifications I made to the first pair (after wearing they needed some adjustment), as well as my most recent version. I’ll try on both and show you a side by side comparison as well.

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I live in a climate that experiences the four seasons each year, often to an extreme extent. It’s not unusual to have below freezing weeks in the winter and hot, humid, summer days above 100 degrees (Fahrenheit). Because of this, I have pieces of clothing that are most used during a particular season, and then put away in storage for others.

I’ve learned over the years which types of garments work well across seasons as layering pieces, and the majority of my wardrobe hangs in my closet year round.

However, having a bit of under bed storage for season specific items means that things can stay more organized, and that I get to enjoy the pleasure of unpacking these items a few times a year. The distance I’ve had from these garments often makes them feel new, and I find that the ways I want to style each piece can change along with the weather.

Today I’m going to share a few garments that I’m pulling out of storage for Spring.

The first category of garment that I am always excited to revisit in the Spring are cotton bottoms. Mostly pants, but also a skirt every now and then.

In the Winter I often reach for heavy denim jeans or a pair of wool trousers. In the Summer it’s often linen pants, shorts, or a breezy dress. Springtime is perfect for a relaxed, elastic waist cotton pant (or skirt).

The first pictured above began as a ZW Gather Skirt by Birgitta Helmersson, from this book of zero waste patterns. However, I found that I wasn’t wearing it, and realized the top tier was far too long. I cut the waistband and a few inches off of it, then added the waistband elastic back in. This resulted in the skirt pictured above, which fits me better than the original did, so I suppose it is no longer a true zero waste garment.

I love the color, and have been enjoying wearing it with oversized shirts and sweaters.

Next up, a pair of black cotton twill Frey pants by Emily Lightly. This is a TNT pattern for me, and I love the curved leg version the most. I made a matching set with this pattern and a Modern Sewing Co. Overshirt and they are perfect mix and match pieces for Spring.

The ecru cotton canvas Potting Pants by Allotment Clothing were technically not pulled out of storage this year, as they’re a recent make. However, they were made with Spring outfits in mind and I’m sure will be in rotation for years to come.

Lastly, my lovely royal blue cotton poplin Pomona Pants by Anna Allen. I modified the straight leg version to have a smaller elastic channel as well as a draw string. I was clearly inspired by the Brooke Callahan poplin pants and these have served me well in seasons past as a fun pop of color amidst my neutral wardrobe.

The next category of garments that I love pulling out for Spring are my wool slipovers. These could of course be worn during the winter - but I find that in the colder months I reach for heavier sweaters, with sleeves! Spring and Fall are when my slipovers see the most wear.

Pictured above are a royal blue Vest No. 1 by My Favorite Things Knitwear, a grey Cocoon Chokki by Noriko Ichikawa, and a beige Stockholm Slipover V-Neck by Petite Knit.

These are perfect layering pieces for Spring. I love wearing them with a tee or button up shirt underneath, or on their own if it’s warm enough.

I am a lover of a good button up shirt, and to be honest I wear them year round. However, I find that in the colder months I’m not reaching for my lightest button ups, and am pleased to have them in rotation again.

The first pictured is a Modern Sewing co. Unisex Shirt, that I made in an XL (recommended size small). I love how silky soft this fine cotton shirting is, and I added contrast red stitching for the button holes which ads a fun touch. This fabric is thin enough to be worn tucked in despite its large size, and I often roll the sleeves.

The second shirt pictured is a white linen Noa Shirt (used to be a free pattern) by Fabrics-Store.com This is one of the first shirts I made, and if I were to make it again I could do a better job of the sleeve plackets, but as I often roll them up it doesn’t bother me too much. I would say this is a true to size shirt, slightly relaxed, but not as oversized as I generally go for.

Springtime feels like a good time to pull out my lighter colored neutrals, and I love adding a pop of blue. It feels fresh, bright, and perfect for this time of year.

I love layering light jackets, sweaters, slipovers, and playing with different ways of wearing these pieces. Adding in a striped shirt helps break up all of the neutrals as well. Maybe I’ll have to sew another color of striped shirt this season for some variety.

This exercise of taking things out of storage, giving them some fresh air, and trying to put different outfits together really makes me excited for Spring. And I didn’t buy anything!

Let me know what you’re excited to wear this Spring, and what is top on your list to make!

Thanks so much for being here, I truly appreciate each one of you.

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Over the past several years, sewing my own clothing has changed the way I see Fashion. I’ve become very aware of the hours involved in producing a single garment well, the importance of fabric choice and seam finishing, and the significant impact that making your own clothing can have.

There is power in having the ability to make clothing that fits well, that is well made, and that is the exact color, silhouette, and style you want. This is particularly true in a world where the fast fashion industry makes clothing, and ultimately the people who produce it, feel so easily disposable. The illusion of choice has resulted in landfills full of cheaply made clothing, and women’s closets full of things that don’t fit or feel comfortable to wear.

A common thread I’ve observed among the many women who have chosen to create their own clothing over the past few years is the power of choice in self-fashioning.

Self-Fashioning is not a new idea, but it is one that’s worth contemplating in 2026. Women are choosing to create their own clothing today as a rejection of a broken system that not only produces poorly made, ill fitting clothing, but that has created a standard of beauty and ‘fashion’ that many of us don’t feel aligned with.

Sewing our own clothing gives us control, autonomy, and self expression separate from what is currently being marketed as on trend in the fashion industry.

Additionally, there is significance in choosing to support small businesses and independent designers of sewing patterns. The majority of indie sewing pattern companies I have come across are women run, and they’re making patterns that are actually designed to fit real bodies. This is a powerful community to support in rejection of corporations who may not have our bodies, or our comfort in clothing, at top of mind.

Women have used clothing, craft, and art, to shape the way that they appear in the world for centuries. While I have spent the past several years creating a mostly handmade wardrobe, I have also been developing my skill and style as an oil painter.

I have always painted portraits, however, only recently have I felt the desire to attempt self-portraiture. It could be being in my 30’s, feeling reflective, and wanting to explore who I am and how I want to self-fashion today…but I also think there is a connection to the desire that I have to make my own clothing.

As a creative, as an artist, and namely as a woman, I want to choose how I present to the world.

Historically, women who paint have not been represented. Paintings of women that appear in museums are often painted by men, the women are depicted as the men portraying them want to see them.

I’ve been reading a great book about this recently, Women in the Picture - What Culture Does with Female Bodies by Catherine McCormack. If you’re also interested in learning about the significance of how women are depicted in art, fashion, advertisements, and social media, I would highly recommend this book.

Women have long used painting and self portraiture to present an image to the world that documented their skill, intelligence, beauty, and style.

They weren’t just recording their likeness, they were asserting their presence. This is a powerful thing to do.

So, as someone who has found confidence, self acceptance, and creative growth through sewing and knitting my own clothing, I thought it would be an interesting project to paint a self portrait in clothing that I had sewn for myself.

Last summer, I made a red cotton poplin button up shirt (the Closet Core Jenna) and then took some photographs wearing it with other items in my wardrobe. I had previously been hesitant to wear a bold red, but it was something I’d been attracted to, and I was convinced it could work in the right cool tone.

One photograph I took paired the shirt with an ivory viscose twill skirt (the Swim Style Connie). The particular way the light was falling, the colors, the way I was standing in my room, and how everything looked together - something in my mind clicked and I knew it was a painting. The image held something important to me in the way I wanted to be dressing, and in the way I wanted to present.

Style is ever evolving, and the term personal style has had some resistance as of late, but making my own clothing has given me a sense of ownership and confidence.

With sewing as with painting, in order to create something you envision, it takes time, trial and error, and ultimately, experience.

Painting a self portrait can be its own unique challenge, as you have to distance yourself from your own image enough to depict it realistically, objectively, and honestly. I’m proud of this painting that I’ve created, but mostly feel excited to have opened the door to what I hope evolves into more self reflection in my art.

Craft can be meditative. Craft can be protest, craft can be self acceptance.

The intersection between sewing and painting - between wearing an outfit made by hand for my body, and creating a self portrait as a woman in 2026, presenting as I see myself, is a powerful thing.

There are many reasons that the sewing and knitting communities have grown exponentially among women in particular in the past several years. Pandemic crafting has evolved into a lifestyle for those seeking tactile, analog, creative practice during a time when AI is everywhere and the social, political, and environmental atmospheres seem so bleak.

I hope that we continue to find community and authority over our own lives through creative expression.

Thank you for reading my thoughts and looking at my work, I would love to hear what you think.

Also, I made a video documenting a bit of the process- if you’re interested it will be out this week on my Youtube channel - subscribe here.

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Generally speaking I am a believer that experience leads to growth, and that ‘failed’ projects are important teachers in the creative process. We learn as we go, and inevitably there are going to be things that we create that fall short of the vision. This is true for any creative pursuit.

That being said, there are a handful of sewing patterns that I’ve made that were clearly not a good fit for me. Literally, as well as stylistically.

I love hearing about the patterns that people love, the ones that are easy to fit and wear. But I also think it can be helpful to share when patterns just don’t work out. This is valuable information as well.

So, while I am going to share a few patterns that I won’t be making again, I want to make it clear that these didn’t work well for me personally, and I have nothing against the pattern designers or other makers who may have made and loved these patterns.

The first pattern that comes to mind is one I tried years ago, the Fibre Mood Betty Trousers. These actually were the first jeans that I made. I bought some 12oz denim from Joann, printed the pattern at home and cut the size recommended. I remember being really pleased with my zip install and topstitching, as these were new skills for me.

However, when I first tried the jeans on, they were laughably big. Huge. Not just a little loose, but very obviously multiple sizes too large. This was odd to me, because I had measured my waist and hips (which were a little bit larger than present day, as I was postpartum) but the pants came out with loads of excess room in the waist, hips, bum, and they were a bit more cropped and balloon shaped than I anticipated - not in a cute way.

Now, if I were to revisit this pattern today I could probably figure out sizing and make a pair that fit. However, the overall style just didn’t suit me. The front of the pants have an interesting yoke design that I remember finding a bit odd to wear, and visually isn’t a style I would choose today.

What this pair did teach me though, is that I love sewing jeans, and I quickly tried to find another pattern that would better suit me.

Another sewing pattern that I had seen loads of people making and styling on instagram that fell short when I tried to make it myself, was the McCall’s M7969 dress. This pattern has a faux wrap front top, gathered skirt, and iconic voluminous ballon sleeves. It seemed like everyone was sewing and wearing this dress at one point, and everyone looked so effortless, romantic, and cool.

However, when I tried the dress on after finishing it (which was not a smooth process whatsoever) I felt like I was wearing a costume. The top sort of fell open whenever I moved my body, the skirt was shorter than I anticipated, and the balloon sleeves looked silly on my narrower, somewhat rectangular frame.

Everything about it felt off, like I was playing dress up or something. I’m not sure what I expected, but the dress was never worn out of the house.

I used a nice linen to make it, and have decided to hang it in my daughter’s closet to see if she might like it when she’s a little older.

This pattern taught me a few things - I don’t like a balloon sleeve, I won’t wear a dress that feels fiddly (front opening not being secure, skirt feeling too short), and also that a burnt orange linen makes me look a bit ill. I definitely suit cooler toned colors.

The third sewing project that comes to mind was another that it seemed everyone was making - the Style Arc Bob Pants. These are an elastic waist, slight barrel shaped pant with inseam pockets and a cropped leg.

I think there are a lot more options for this silhouette today, but when I sewed this pattern up it felt like something unique, an interesting style that I wanted to try out.

Ultimately, the fit just wasn’t good for me. They were a bit more cropped than I wanted them to be, the rise wasn’t roomy enough, and overall they felt a bit like pajamas more than everyday pants.

Also, the pockets were the kidney shaped kind that are sewn into the side seam but not the top/waistband, so they flop from front to back and get bunched up easily.

I felt like the silhouette was close to what I wanted, but not exactly, and as I mentioned I have a couple of other go-to patterns that I personally prefer the fit and construction of much more.

Next up - a pattern that I actually didn’t finish sewing, which is rare for me.

I had been eyeing denim skirts, another item that was a bit trendy at the time, and purchased the Merchant and Mills Clementine Skirt pattern.

The product photos for this sewing pattern looked really promising, but I don’t think I had actually seen anyone make the pattern when I tried it. I liked the classic silhouette and jeans topstitching details, and the fit looked like what I wanted on the models.

When it came to trying the skirt on for the first time however, I was crushed.

Well, I was thankful that I’d chosen to make a trial version in a cotton canvas I had in stash before cutting into my good denim, because the fit was ridiculous.

Basically the hips fit quite snug, and the waist was massive. I typically fit into a straight size and don’t have a dramatic difference between my waist and hips, so this is unusual for me.

Also, the width of the front of the skirt was quite a bit larger than the back. Typically the opposite is true, as there is more material needed across the bum than the front (again, personal to me, but true of most bottoms I’ve worn).

It was dramatic enough that the “side” belt loops were on the back, and the pockets wrapped around the sides. Very odd.

I decided not to finish the project, which is atypical for me, but there was just so much that was off about the fit that I knew I wouldn’t be wearing it.

I could probably go on, there have been many failed projects over the years, but these patterns stand out as having so many things that felt ‘off’ about them that I am confident I won’t be revisiting them.

I’d love to know what your sewing ‘fails’ have been. Are there any particular patterns that you expected to love and ended up not wearing?

Thanks again for being here! Let me know if there are any specific topics around sewing, knitting, or slow fashion that you’d like me to write about next.

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I’ve been sewing jeans for a few years, and until now haven’t found the perfect-for-me pattern.

Basically, I wanted to recreate my men’s Levi’s 501 Shrink to Fits…and for some reason couldn’t find a relaxed, straight leg, mid rise jeans pattern.

Around last year’s Black Friday sales, I purchased a pair of Levi’s 501 90’s jeans, and loved the fit. Until that point I’d only been wearing men’s Levi’s. So - when I saw the sample of Daughter Judy’s Matchbook Jeans pattern, I was thrilled that they looked so similar to the 501 90’s.

(photos below to compare - Levi’s left, Matchbook Right)

For my first pair, I chose to cut out a straight size 4. I’m 5’7” and typically wear a US 4 in ready to wear.

According to the Matchbook pattern, these are supposed to sit mid-rise, below the natural waist. They have ease built into the waist and hip areas, and have a very slight drop crotch.

I actually measured my 501 90’s jeans and compared meticulously the measurements of those with the finished measurements of my size of the Matchbook jeans, and found them to be very similar.

I go in depth about this in my Youtube video if you’d like to hear more about that process.

The fabric that I used for my first version was a 12.5oz raw denim, 100% cotton, that I purchased from Nick of Time Textiles and was originally made for Wrangler.

The jeans were a little stiff at first - to be expected with raw denim, but have relaxed beautifully with wear.

This was after about a week of wear.

I was so pleased with the initial fit, having cut a straight size and making no modifications to the pattern. Very rare that a pattern fits so well from the start.

Because I was thrilled with my first attempt, I knew I’d make another pair, and ultimately wanted an off white or ecru color for spring/summer. (I’d honestly been watching the Levi’s site to see if their ecru version of the 501 90’s was on sale.)

On a whim one day I checked Nick of Time’s website to see if they had any ecru denim, as they often sell deadstock fabrics and the inventory changes. They just happened to be having a sale where the number of yards you purchased = the discount you got off of your entire order, up to 60 percent off.

Well, I happily ordered fabric, one cut of which was an 11oz natural bull denim.

I cut the same size as before, and although this video was taken soon after finishing the jeans I think you can see that from the start the fabric is a bit more relaxed than my first pair. This is to be expected with a lighter weight fabric, and I assume these are going to relax much more with wear.

I’m so pleased with this second version. I think they’re going to be perfect for Spring outfits, and I was actually able to wear them today with the navy linen top pictured above without a jacket! Spring truly is in the air.

I have commented on the pattern instructions a bit more in depth in my YouTube review, but can briefly do so here as well.

The instructions are good, however, they’re a bit more sparse and to the point than some other indie jeans pattern instructions I’ve experienced. Interestingly, I don’t think this was true of the first Daughter Judy pattern I tried - the Worship Jeans - but that was before the company’s rebranding. The aesthetics of the rebrand seem to have extended to more minimal pattern instructions as well.

That being said, if you’ve made jeans before you can definitely make this pattern. However if you are trying jeans for the first time, possibly consider a pattern that has more hand holding, such as the closet core Frank or the Anna Allen Helene patterns.

A side by side comparison of the two versions.

Now, am I going to stop wearing my straight leg, mid rise, Levi’s jeans? Of course not.

But, I’m so pleased that I have a jeans pattern now that ticks all of those boxes and fits so well without pattern modifications.

Let me know which version you prefer, and let me know if you’ve tried this jeans pattern. Maybe you’ve made another pattern that fit you perfectly from the start - I’d love to hear about it!

Thanks so much for being here, I’m loving the substack community so far.

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I have made many pairs of jeans, and thought it would be helpful to share a bit about each of the patterns I’ve tried, as well as how each might best suit different style preferences.

Organic / Vintage / Feminine

Helene Jeans - Anna Allen

This pattern is based on heritage denim jeans from the 1930’s-1960’s.

Designed with selvedge denim in mind, the Helene Jeans are high waisted, closely fit through the waist and hips, and the pattern has three leg shapes to choose from.

The classic, straight leg view is probably the most iconic, however the slim straight and wide leg views also feel true to the vintage inspired aesthetic.

This pattern feels ruggedly feminine, meant to fit closely to the body and accentuate the waist and hips - but also with a nod to classic men’s denim in design. The button fly option is something I’ve not seen on most women’s jeans patterns, for instance.

While other patterns I’ll mention today may say they are a high-waisted fit, the Helene Jeans are by far the highest rise, most sizes have a rise above 12 inches, the largest size having a 16 inch rise.

Choose this pattern if you are a lover of vintage denim with a classically feminine leaning. These jeans pair well with tops that are more fitted or cropped, allowing that closely fitting high waist to show.

Selvedge denim that is 100% cotton will break in and soften with wear, conforming to your body shape and fading in a way unique to your movements.

Style with a cropped cardigan, vintage tee, or feminine blouse with statement sleeves.

Helene Pattern

Modern / Classic / Relaxed

Matchbook Jeans - Daughter Judy

This pattern is intended to be relaxed and comfortable.

A mid-rise jean, these sit below your natural waist and have ease built into the waist and hip areas. They have a slight drop crotch, and the leg has a subtle taper, ending around the heel.

The Matchbook jeans feel Modern, but in a Modern - Classic way. They’re not particularly trendy in style, and they don’t feel like a reference to a particular vintage jean in the way the Helene’s do.

These jeans are for you if you want a relaxed, elevated, jean that won’t be out of style in a few years.

This pattern is also intended for non - stretch denim, and will relax further with wash and wear. I love the idea of making these in a dark indigo denim that fades into a soft blue in time.

Also - I actually have a natural/ecru denim version on my sewing table right now for Spring.

These pair nicely with a chic button up shirt as well as they do a relaxed crew neck sweatshirt.

I love a versatile piece, and these jeans are just the right amount of tapered to work well with a pair of heels, as well as sandals or loafers.

Matchbook Pattern

Heritage / Workwear / Oversized

Heroine Jeans - Merchant and Mills

This pattern has a relaxed fit and wider leg than the others so far.

The Heroine jeans are designed to have a generous turn up at the bottom of the leg, reminiscent of heritage style while still feeling modern.

While all jeans began as workwear, the Heroine jeans pattern feels most aligned with a workwear aesthetic. The wider, more relaxed leg design allows for ease of movement.

If the Helene Jeans are vintage / feminine, the Heroine feel more heritage / masculine leaning in fit.

The pattern description says they’re intended to sit at the waist, but I find that the amount of ease built into the design makes them sit a bit lower. For example, the UK 10 says body measurement 27 inches (or 69cm) and the finished waistband for that size is 30 inches (or 77cm).

The Heroine jeans feel very much intentionally oversized, with a nod to heritage workwear in their design.

Choose these if you like a long, relaxed leg, with a generous amount of ease in the hips.

These pair well with chore coats, chunky cabled sweaters, or a classic tee.

Heroine Pattern

Versatile / Trend Forward

Frank Jeans - Closet Core

The Frank Jeans by Closet Core are by far the most versatile pattern on the list.

This pattern comes with a very unique design which allows you to choose from mid or high rise, straight leg, barrel leg, and wide leg views.

Now, its worth noting that the “high rise” view is not as high as some of the others on this list, and the “mid rise” could be considered verging on low-rise jean territory for some.

I made the high rise view with the barrel leg, and they sit right at my belly button.

These jeans are for you if you want to play with trending silhouettes, but in a restrained way.

The barrel leg feels chic, and it’s subtle. These aren’t exaggerated and trendy in the way that maybe a horseshoe jean can be. They will be wearable years from now.

The fit is intended to be quite close to the body at the waist and hips, and the majority of the variety with this pattern happens in the leg shaping.

Because this pattern has so many views, one could argue that it could be styled in a variety of fashions. However, the overall aesthetic feels quite modern, with an eye towards current jean trends.

These are for you if you like a closer fit around the waist and hips, and want to play with different silhouettes in the leg.

Frank Pattern

Chic / Classic / Minimal

Worship Jeans - Daughter Judy

The Worship Jeans (The second Daughter Judy pattern on this list) feel incredibly chic. The design is classic, and the styling feels minimal in a very elevated way.

There are two leg views, one is a slim fitting straight leg with a slight taper at the bottom, and the other has a fun flare shape.

These feel like jeans you would wear with a heel or ballet flat. Simple, clean lines, a close fit to the body, and a slightly cropped leg.

The Worship jeans definitely feel more feminine in style, a jean that works well when dressed up. Try styling with a fitted tee, or a button up that’s tucked in.

The waistband has a slight V shape at the front, which makes them more comfortable while sitting.

The flare leg doesn’t feel boho, its rather elevated in a chic, kick flare type of way.

These are for you if your style leans more feminine and elevated, if you like a classic, closely fitting jean.

Worship Pattern

Let me know if you’ve made any of these, and what your favorite jeans pattern is in the comments!

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