The wood is quite different to the last time I was here

Plants have grown in that explosive way that they do at this time of year

A fluffy feather on the ground, looks like a bird of prey’s, a buzzard maybe or an owl?

I almost collapsed on the ground (a positive sort of collapse) didn’t know how much I needed this place, this rest. My body knew

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Lemonbalm to uplift

Rosemary for concentration

Sage for reassurance, to feel supported

Lavender to relax

Oregano on loads of our meals, it has anti-inflammatory properties

Chamomile to sooth and for sleep

Mint to refresh and to ease a sore tummy

Lemon verbena, a firm favourite, to uplift-love it on a dessert or in a cold drink

Day 1

I looked at the forecast and felt a bit jammy to see all yellow sunshines for the Highlands over the next week. Tomorrow was the only rainy day, I could have waited but I was eager to get going-a whole EIGHT DAYS off from work and mothering, the biggest chunk of time to myself in five years!

I’d picked this week back in January, knowing/hoping it would be around that sweet spot of ‘a bit warmer but hopefully no midges!’

I arrived at Milgavie around 4pm on Saturday, put Compeed plasters and zinc oxide tape on my feet (in the places I have had blisters in the past) got my waterproofs on and heaved my bag onto my back, walked past the obvious starting point and followed the clear track through the woods, surprised at how OK the bag felt at first.

I swapped shoes after 4 miles-this lesson I learned after walking several long days following the River Coquet, after our first day I got super bad blisters on the balls of my feet. So having trainers to change into has been an absolute long walk game changer. I use Vivo Bafefoot walking boots with double socks and Nike Free trainers which are super light to carry.

I (almost said ‘we’ there because of my bag/house buddy!) rested after about an hour and a half, with legs up a tree, which felt so good! I paused again to add more tape onto a little hot spot on my foot, catching it before it turned into a blister.

A little further on, the wind picked up and as the path turned left I realised, with a sinking feeling, that the waterproof cover for my bag had blown away. I retraced my steps a little and then put my bag down to jog back the way I came for half a mile or so. I was gutted, mostly for littering, I couldn’t see it anywhere, the wind was strong, so I had to let it go. When I returned to my bag, my walking boot, which I had tied to the outside of my backpack, was facing up and was now totally soaked inside…Amazing how quickly things can change!

Walking on, the path was now pretty slippy, long and straight. The light faded and I walked a couple of hours in the dark and wind to the campsite, arriving a little later than planned. Somehow I managed to pitch my tent in the wind and the rain although it felt an impossible battle at first and I thought the material might snag and tear.

It was so lovely to have a dry inside space to cook some pasta, charge my phone, make a hot water bottle, splash my face, brush teeth and stick some hand towels in my wet boot! It was great to know the rest of the week should be sunny!

Day 2

I woke to glorious sunshine, feeling so chuffed to be there, to have this time in this place. There is something so satisfying about carrying all you need on your back, I felt a bit like a tortoise!

There were people wild camping about a mile from the campsite. The path lead me through woods with amazing views.

I met Martin here and he told me “you know there is luggage transfer?” I politely told him I was aware and that I looked forward to a slow and steady approach, looking forward to camping as I went.

I found Conic hill such slow progress and really challenging to be honest, although the view over Loch Lomond was breathtaking! The steps on the way down would have usually been fine but with the added bag weight I had to concentrate on my footing with every one. I changed shoes again at the bottom of the hill and gave myself a little pat on the back.

The path then continued downhill through beautiful woodland, tall coniferous trees and ferns glowing as the sun streamed in with golds and greens.

I got a little lost around Balmaha, the network of paths around the village confused me, I found my way again and set off along the banks of Loch Lomond.

I didn’t make the progress I thought I might that day, I listened to my body and stopped 4 miles before Rowardennan at Carshel Campsite. On the last mile a canny lad in his twenties walked and chatted for a while, he was jogging the route and said he would just slow down or sleep whenever he felt the need to-how amazing! I like the way you meet different people all doing it their own way and you probably won’t see them again but somehow it seems significant that you all chose to walk (or run) that path at that time.

I had an amazing hot shower and massaged my feet with homemade balm and lavender essential oil. I hoped to wild camp for the rest of the way as you aren’t able to on the southern end of the loch.

Day 3

Waking around 7am I packed down the tent and gathered my things into my bag. After breakfast I set off around 8 and prepared myself for the ‘hardest section’ of the walk. I felt unsure about what I would find but confident in pacing myself and in my massage and yoga toolkit. Martin had recommended that I should consider using the luggage transfer for this bit.

The first section of the path was quite undulating, there is an option to take a track slightly higher up, rather than stick to the little path closer to the water but I opted to stay on the Loch side path. It was like a little fairy path, decorated by primroses, violets and ferns. I took a wrong turn/ didn’t see a sign at one point and did a mile detour through mossy, dense woods, after a little panic I rationalised that I was still right by the loch and help if need be. I could see on the map how to get back onto the route so I just enjoyed the additional adventure-whoops!

After about 10 miles and a shoe change, I began to get tired of focusing on roots and stones. While I was enjoying the camp food I’d brought of cereal bars and wraps with Manchego, trail mix, foraged dandelion and sorrel leaves, I fantasised about what I would eat for lunch if I could have anything. I decided on a chicken salad with feta and chips with a pint of coke! When I arrived at Inversnaid pub they literally had that meal on the menu-I ordered with 15 minutes until they stopped lunch orders and ate with immense gratitude!

The pub was quite hilarious, for most people walking South to North it was day 2 or 3 and prime time for a few muscle aches to kick in. Most people, including myself, were hobbling around in their socks and it amused me that that must be most of their clientele!

It took a while to get going again after that meal, I could have gone to sleep, I was so knackered! I got up and my Achilles on both sides felt very tender, tentatively I stretched, ankle circled and put my trainers back on, the next bit was the hard part I’d been warned about. I shuffled out of the pub car park and back to the path. I caught someone’s eye through the window, which made me laugh and he cheered me on as I walked away at snail pace. After half an hour I got into a rhythm again and the aches eased up.

The difficult bit consisted of the same sort of loch side path as before, just a bit of an up-level version. Without a huge bag it would have be fun to scramble and jump about and to be fair (Martin) I would like to do that one day! There are boulders with steps and a few sections where there are drops-I had to think about keeping my body weight to the land edge, however there are sections within the hard bit where you get a rest. I decided to stop before the end of that section and found a little beach with it’s own plunge pool in the stream next to it. Once my tent was all set up I dunked into the pool-it was fecking FREEZING! but also felt amazing and so good on my achy muscles. It was lovely to cosy up in my tent house with a hot water bottle that night and I rubbed my calves and feet after a stretch, then fell sound asleep with the soothing sound of the water lapping beside me.

Day 4

I set off again, feeling significantly more energetic and stronger remembering a conversation with my Dad about ‘once you get past the third day’ that definitely seemed true. There were only a few more miles of the thin loch path and then the hills came appeared and it felt like I was really heading into the wilds of the Highlands. The morning was so sunny and still, water like glass reflecting the golds and browns of the hills and blue blue sky. I didn’t see anyone for the first hour or two-to be in such a place on my own, to have it all to myself for that time felt like such a gift. I stopped several times to just breathe it in. There was field sorrel and I paused to have a little snack.

At the end of the loch I began my journey into the hills. The warm morning brought out the delicious slightly spiced menthol scent of Bog Mrytle, a plant which has been used as a natural insect repellent, to aid stomach aches, fever, bronchial problems and liver issues. The smell is one of my absolute favourites and I popped a bit in my bag.

When I first planned my trip I had imagined slate blue hills and moody skies, so it was a beautiful and surprising to see the Highlands in such straw gold and copper tones.

I passed Beinglas campsite and the path became a wide track passing a river with waterfalls and huge pools-would be fun to come back here with family or friends I thought.

The path wound up through the hills and I was sad to see loads of frogspawn on the path which had obviously been in puddles now dried up in the baking sun. When I saw deeper water, I would move the frogspawn to it but there was so much of it but maybe a saved a couple of little froggy lives!

I had thought the path took you straight to Creinlarich however it’s is actually a detour and so I kept going to Tyndrum to stock up on supplies. I felt really comfortable. The £20 Ofsprey bag (found in a charity shop by my mum) was such a dream once it was on and I just adjusted the straps accordingly when an area of my body needed a rest.

The dry hilly track lead me through a felled forest and then down into a living one. I met a couple of Polish guys who said there was a campsite near by but I ended up wild camping on a lovely pebble beach about a mile before Tyndrum, ate two packs of cous cous, dunked my feet in the river and slept soundly until I woke to refill my hot water bottle because it was cold! I had a decent mat, down jacket, cashmere jumper and ice breaker merino top, three season sleeping bag and a hot water bottle and I still woke from the cold. Perhaps a four season sleeping bag for next time.

Day 5

I woke to a very frosty morning! But hey not a bad exchange for blue skies and no midges! I got up, did a little yoga practice on the pebble beach in a pool of morning sun. Once the frost had melted and dried from the tent I packed up and walked through the idyllic woodland, trees with new spring leaves, to Tyndrum.

I got a bit over excited at The Green Welly Shop in Tyndrum, it was the first proper food shop on my trip (most the campsite shops sell bits). I was low on food and made the classic mistake of shopping when hungry. The lovely lady at the till said ‘You’re gonna have to carry all that on your back hen!’ I put the gas back and kept the beans (what the hec?!) cereal bars, chocolate, pesto, pasta, rice, cheese and chorizo for wraps, a fruit salad and a tuna salad for lunch. My logic was that I wouldn’t have to think about food shopping again but Boy oh boy did I regret it! In hind sight, I can see that wrap stuff and pasta would have been quite enough, that and the cooking gas…1 mile down the road my bag felt SO much heavier and I was already planning how I’d mix the beans, rice and cheese together for a feast that night!

The military road seemed to go on forever but it traveled through the beautiful sunny highland landscape. I stopped to rub my feet, change shoes and have lunch only to find my tuna salad had leaked in my bag! I used a sock to contain the spillage, which was mostly over the wrap packet, ate the salad, thinking ‘why did I buy so much food?’ However, it did give me some good energy and as there were plenty streams about I just topped up the filter water bottle as I went which lightened the load.

I met many different people doing the WHW in their own ways, for their own reasons and I loved these interactions of just chatting for a bit and then having my own space and company again.

I passed Bridge of Orchy and the pub there, which was just at the wrong time of the day to stop-also I didn’t need to buy anymore food for a while!

I climbed the hill out of there with Ray, who had just got into walking a year ago and similarly to me, was taking a week out of work and family life. As I walked down the hill to Inveran the inn and campsite looked inviting in the late afternoon light but I had my heart set on Ranoch Moor which was about 4 miles away.

Ranoch Moor feels ancient and magic. We often drive over it when heading up to the Hebrides but to walk and sleep in the landscape is something else. I camped looking overlooking a small loch with mountains all around. In that golden light it felt like a dream, I felt held and safe, away from the roads up here, so silent, so gold, so still. My soul felt completely and utterly at peace.

It was my favourite place to be on the whole walk. I am in absolute awe of that landscape within the hills, thinking about all that has happened there I was reminded of the book Witchlight by Susan Fletcher which tells the story of Corrag, a woman who loved nature and lived alone in Glen Coe during the 17th century in a time when it was more than frowned upon. It made me glad to feel safe walking and camping alone there, in this present time but also how there were still moments on the walk where I felt scared too-there was a man walking the drover’s road over the moorland at the same time as me and he was walking directly behind me rather than to the side. With no one else around I did have a little moment of ‘what if something happened?’ but I took a deep breath and made conversation and it was completely fine.

Words from the Hill

Giants, Guardians, Safety, Wisdom, Old, Sturdy, Reliable, Open, Space, Russet, Gold, Sleeping. Witness to many things, many lives lived between these hilly walls. Reflect gold, Absorb mood, Create mood, Slate, Purple, Grey, Navy Blue, Copper hue. Each distinct in it’s own way. Peace.

Day 6

I absorbed the landscape as I continued along the Ranoch Moor drover’s road, still feeling so held here. I saw deer and little birds hopping about the heather. I stopped just before Kingshouse to eat a wrap but although Kingshouse was in a proper little suntrap, I didn’t fancy stopping there. There was a local guy called Stevie who was off to scramble up the hills and we got onto the subject of Witchlight which we had both read and enjoyed. I told him that if I made good time, I was planning to head up Mallaig way after the walk and he advised me which side of the train to sit on to get the best views, as well as a couple of other useful things about transport-thanks Stevie!

At the bottom of Devil’s Stair Case there was a guy carrying his bike up and an American girl completing a section she didn’t finish last year. The bike guy said that he wouldn’t fancy doing it on foot as some of the stretches would be a bit long and boring. It would be interesting doing it by bike…

In comparison to Conic Hill on the second day, I was astounded by how different walking up Devil’s Staircase felt! My quads were strong, heart and lungs working well-and I let myself have a moment and really feel that sense of awe for my own body. I did pause to chat to some canny folk a couple of times and to admire the view. I met Zoe around the top. We descended the 3 miles into Kinlochlevin-it’s amazing how much quicker walking time passes when you're nattering! We had a laugh about unsolicited advice on bag transfer and other some other similar tips we’d received from men on the walk. Zoe was also solo walking and camping, it was lovely to exchange our stories. She was 21 and had just decided to do it the previous Friday. We chatted all the way down and then she stopped there for the night at the campsite she’d booked whereas I felt energised to keep going-maybe the extra food was a good idea after all!

I stopped for a shandy and a lime and soda water outside a pub in Kinlochlevin, until a cold wind picked up, so I ventured inside and asked if they knew where I could buy cooking gas-I had used it all last night (luckily it did last for cooking the cheesey bean rice feast and to heat my hot-water bottle water too!). The one place that sold it was closed but then I was directed to the campsite-they have a shelf where people leave things they no longer want to carry-there was an almost full gas canister-how lush is that?!

So, all sorted, I headed up the pink stone path out of the village and back into the hills, my body and energy levels felt good and I decided that I’d be quite up for walking a bit in the dark by torch, moon and starlight.

I didn’t see anyone else walking that evening, the path took me into a valley between huge hills and there was a big powerful something in that space. An abandoned house right in the middle of the valley made me think again about the lives people lived up here, who were they? How did they grow food? What was their way of life like? Up from that house there was a pointy mountain and it sounded like it had it’s very own storm up there.

I began to feel a bit tired and found a camp spot but then realised there was another tent right next to it. So I kept going in the dark, the moon and stars gave a little light but I switched the torch on and continued for another couple of hours. I felt ready for sleep but I had no phone signal and I wanted to look at train times for the next day and also, if I’m honest, wanted a bit of contact with the rest of the world for comfort. I decided to keep going until I got some signal. The wind had picked up and it felt cold and wild, the path turned to the right and began to descend. Then, the strangest thing happened…as I followed the path downhill a balmy wind seemed to wrap all around me, it felt like a huge comforting hug, like a little embrace of reassurance from the universe. This was just as well because 20 metres further on there was a big sign to say that a battle had happened here several hundred years ago-at this point I was glad the warm wind didn’t come after seeing the sign! I saw a little forest of tall Scot’s pine trees and through the trees I caught sight of a light from a house-this was the first house I’d seen all night and I was reassured by it. In the trees, just by the path, was a flat area which had clearly been used for camping, there was even a handmade stone fire pit. It felt very different to the open sunny Ranoch Moor but I got pitched and cosy chuffed with my 23 miles that day and I began to feel excited about being near the finish!

Day 7

I woke early again, I hadn’t slept as well that night but I was eager to get going for the last leg. As I headed along the path I couldn’t see anywhere obvious for pitching a tent and felt grateful for stopping when I did last night.

The path became a track again and at the top of the hill there were stunning views across to Ben Nevis, I had been blessed with sunshine yet again and everything felt so springy as the path descended (for quite some time) down to Glen Nevis. I had considered carrying on to Fort William last night but I was super glad I hadn’t as it was further than I thought!

I carried on to Fort William feeling my feet on the concrete and actually walked past the bench that marks the finish-hahah! I couldn’t believe I was at the end, I took my bag off and gave it a pat.

At the train station I bought a ticket for Morar and had a day and a half holiday on a white sandy beach in the sunshine overlooking the Inner Hebrides, stretching out, paddling the sea and a few strolls without my muckle bag on my back-it was pure bliss!

I feel so proud of my body and of my mind for that journey, working together to not just complete it but doing it in a way that has truly nourished and empowered.

Some Lessons I learned

-Don’t bring a hardback book! I brought my friend’s (brilliant) book but I couldn't get a paper copy, I didn’t read as much as I thought I might on the walk,

-Don’t buy beans or jars of pesto or other heavy food unless close to camp, basically just keep the weight down of any unecessary heavy stuff!

-Do stop regularly to make adjustments. Listen to my body. Stay hydrated. Rub feet. Adjust bag straps. Change shoes and socks. Pace yourself, don’t battle through if in pain. Approaching the trip with curiosity served me very well as well as the intention of looking after my feet.

-Massage and stretching IS indeed AMAZING and cold water-so many gorgeopus spots to dunk feet.

-Compeed plasters are great as well as Zinc Oxide tape.

-I have to admit that coming home and reintegrating was more challenging than I thought, partly because I wasn’t very well but partly because well, I find the juggle of everything a challenge and after having a week to simply think of my own basic needs really simplified everything. So next time I will set an intention for that bit too.

Foot Care

Talc, Cracked Heel cream, Compeed blister plasters, Zinc Oxide tape ‘dream tape’. Lavander essential oil. Homemade balm with beeswax and olive oil. Spare socks, spare shoes-I’d usually walk about 6 mils in my Vivo walking boots and then swap into dry socks and trainers-it was sunny so I tied my wet (sweaty) socks to my bag to dry. I stopped every 1 1/2-2 hours to give my feet a rub, take my bag off, stretch/move and swear. I don’t usually use talc but if very hot I used in addition to changing socks.

Transition between Winter and Spring

A moment alone, to get lost if I wish

Magic in the air

Life beginning again

It’s cold but so light, energy building

The whole of Spring and Summer stretches ahead

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Method:

🌿Find a place where wild garlic grows in abundance and pick a few handfuls. Wild garlic has white star like flower and well, smells very garlicky! The flowers weren’t out yet when I picked the leaves, use an identification method if unsure.

🌿Sterilise a couple of jars with lids- I used honey jars.

🌿Rinse and strain garlic leaves, pat dry with kitchen towel

🌿Chop the garlic leaves

🌿Stuff leaves into jars and cover with olive oil

🌿Put the lids on the jars and screw tight before giving each jar a shake

🌿Leave in a cool, dry place for a couple of weeks and then strain oil into a bottle using a muslin cloth

🌿The oil, when ready, can be used on vegetables, salad, pasta, garlic mayo, garlic bread….basically anything you want to be made garlicky!

🌿Garlic oil can be stored in fridge for 3 weeks or in a different container in the freezer for 6 months 💚

I love the concept of dividing the menstrual cycle into four different seasons and embracing the different phases rather than pushing through. Working with and tracking my own cycle has been an opportunity to tune into each season and apply it to my practice. Training in Well Woman Yoga with Uma Dinsmore-Tuli, author of Yoni Shakti. Maisie Hill’s Period Power (the book and the podcast) and Wild Power by Alexandra Pope and have all been incredibly helpful resources on this journey.

Creating a sensory space really holds me in my practice and adds another layer of connection to each season and to my body and spirit. For this wintery practice I walked down my garden and picked sage to make tea-I just give it a rinse add boiled water and a spoonful of honey, the smell is so comforting to me and apparenty Sage comes from the Latin word for ‘Safe’.

A hotwater bottle and a sheep fleece made by my Aunty (she felts the back so the sheep can go on to live long happy lives!) made me feel extra cocooned in my wintery rest space.

Hello, I’m Becca, and I’m so glad you found your way here.

About Me

I practice and teach:

• Yoga

• Massage

• Art

From my little studio in a village in Northumberland, I create a space where movement, creativity and healing come together.

Community Retreats

Every month, I run an in person special retreat as part of a community interest company, where:

• Different artists and practitioners collaborate

• We share our work and support one another

• Retreats remain accessible and fair for both participants and practitioners

What You’ll Find Here

Through this Substack, I want to bring you:

• Small, manageable self-care practices

• Gentle self-massage techniques

• Mindful movement exercises

• Creative activities to integrate into daily life

Even if you only have a few minutes at your desk, these simple tools will help you:

• Feel more present

• Connect with your body

• Boost overall well-being

Let’s Begin

I can’t wait to share this journey with you. Thank you for being here.

With warmth,
Becca

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When I pick up a stone, or a rock, or some clay

It makes me remember, that we are literally connected

To everything going on, on the earth, by the earth.

We are made by the same components as the earth

And we are sustained by all that she grows.

As I grind the rocks to make paint,

I think about things that have passed

And how these rocks were formed,

All that has happened since they were formed.

All that has happened and all that is happening

On this same planet. On this same earth.

This earth that I paint with, there is so much horror

And so much joy,

We are literally connected to it all.

But working with earth is grounding and it soothes my soul.

When I nourish and feed the earth in my garden with compost

and I love it, I am literally feeding the earth.

We come from it and we go back to it and then we literally become the earth.