There’s a kind of New York lunch that’s become rare: the one where you actually sit down without a rush to get back to your desk. Jaime Young is one of Busboy’s heroes trying to bring it back. As chef and co-founder of Sunday Hospitality, the Long Island native has built The Dynamo Room’s whole approach around slowing midtown down, starting with a warm Parker House roll. We talked to him about long lunches, building a restaurant on New York’s timeline, and why that good bread moment still matters.

Full Name, Age, and Where are you from?

Jaime Young, 42, Long Island.

What is your title and how are you involved with The Dynamo Room?

Chef/Co-Founder Sunday Hospitality. With our partners and team we concepted and developed the menus and dining experience.

What inspired you to get into this industry?

Watching cooking shows with my grandmother, Julia Child’s specifically.

There’s something very “midday Manhattan” about a proper lunch service. What does lunch mean to you in this city right now?

For us, in midtown, there are so many grab and go’s. We are trying to to perpetuate that long lunch culture, taking your time and enjoying. Your guests company Not everything in nyc has to be rushed or on the go.

The Parker House Rolls feel almost symbolic at this point. What makes a detail like that worth obsessing over?

I think a bread moment always starts a meal off on the right foot. Warm hot buttery rolls will never get old.

You’ve spent a lot of time cooking in New York, how has the city shaped your instincts as a chef?

New York is always at 100 miles an hour. The pressure to get a restaurant on its feet and producing a great experience has to happen almost immediately in order to really make it. So thinking and planning become paramount in order to get on the track for success. We spend a lot of time considering who our guests are and how we can best serve and deliver them an experience that will be impactful.

What’s something on The Dynamo Room’s menu that people might overlook but you think defines the restaurant?

We serve a really great prime rib, it’s incredible prime beef from Demkota, covered in our house steak seasoning and served with our incredibly beefy au jus. English cut (thinner slices) is the way to go!

What’s your ideal version of a long lunch?

A few bottles of burgundy, aged beef with a nice green salad. Definitely a cheese board, dessert and some amaro from Faccia Brutto (preferably the alpine).

And finally, how do you relax outside of work?

I like cooking for family and friends on the weekends. Simple rustic cooking.

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PHILADELPHIA EATS ITINERARY:

Note: We primarily stayed in the South Philly area so keep that in mind as you read through our favorites. We are always open to suggestions for the next time we take the Amtrak over.

Supérette - As as pre-pre dinner stop, we made ourselves at home at the standing counter at this half wine-bar/French market. The vibes were immaculate with just the right amount of background conversations to smooth the brain. This was the perfect apertivo hour stop and we snacked on two corsicanos (cap corse, lemon, biere blanche) and some raw (never say no to shrimp cocktail and oysters) and for health ~~ two salads - haricot verts/potatoes with a jammy egg and trout row and a lentil salad.

Our favorite butter Rodolphe Le Meunier Beurre de Baratte - a delicious mouthful) was in the cold case and we are huge fans of Orangina so will definitely be back again.

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However, a trip to Charleston is incomplete without acknowledging its complicated history. I am embarrassed to admit much of what I learned was not taught this in my Northeastern public school curriculum and there were so many details that were new to me.

Like driving through Johns Island and learning that it was an area that was extremely enslaved until the Civl War. Seeing the majestic tree that is the Angel Oak and learning that this tree that is older than the country itself and importantly, acted as a gathering space for NAACP leaders during segregated times. From being the hub of the transatlantic slave trade to the intricacies of Gullah cuisine, there is so much more to learn. For all of us.

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Full Name, Age, and Where are you from?

Michael Wyant, 31, born in Bandung, Indonesia and grew up all over the place from Ankara, Turkey to Melbourne, Florida and several places in between. I’ve now been in NYC for 9 years.

What is your title and how are you involved with Sake No Hana?

I am a Food & Beverage Manager and Sake Sommelier. I handle the day-to-day operations that the restaurant requires while also working with my beverage directors on curating the sake list.

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What inspired you to get into this industry?

I first fell in love with hospitality while working at Blue Smoke/Jazz Standard within the USHG family. My mentors there really instilled the ideas of elevated hospitality within me, including all of the Danny Meyer-isms that went with working for USHG. My interest in sake came along during the pandemic as Blue Smoke/Jazz Standard, like most restaurants, closed and never came back. As a result, I found a job at EN Japanese Brasserie, learned from my colleague Yoshi Sakimoto and really found a passion in sake.

Sake is often misunderstood outside of Japan. What’s the biggest misconception you find yourself correcting at the table?

This is my favorite part of the job here - educating guests who want to explore sake. Guests often deal in absolutes when it comes to sake, like “oh I only drink cloudy/hot/daiginjo/etc” where in reality sake spans a wide range of expressions even within those categories.

Wine has long dominated fine dining in New York, but sake feels like it’s entering a new chapter. What has changed over the last few years?

My belief is that it comes down to the non-Japanese restaurants that have leaned into sake. I look at Le Bernandin and KRU in Brooklyn. Chefs in NYC often have some koji-marinated dishes or are putting uni or sakekasu into dishes; that doesn’t happen without knowing some basics of sake and brewing in general. The pairing opportunities with sake are as endless, or controversially more diverse than wine can offer. You also have big names in wine like Richard Geoffrey, formerly of Dom Perignon, stepping into the sake brewing scene with IWA 5. More boutique sake bars that feature hyper-exclusive bottles, like our neighbors Steight or Sake Bar Asoko, are popping up and showcasing that sake can be chic.

Sake is deeply tied to craftsmanship and seasonality. Are there breweries or producers whose stories you find yourself returning to over and over?

Yes. So many, actually. I particularly look at Heiwa Shuzou who produce the KID label of sake. They’re based in Wakayama, Japan and will release seasonal bottles every season along with their core lineup. The brewers all live together, so they literally cannot get away from each other and are always thinking about sake. Their water source comes from the sacred, and UNESCO protected, Mt. Koya as well; which water source cannot be understated when you talk about sake.

It’s my first time at Sake no Hana. What are the must order dishes and what would be your sake pairing recommendations?

First and foremost, if there is a special on - get it. Our culinary team is incredibly talented and often find inspiration at the Union Square Green Market for daily specials. We also will always have an off-menu Toyosu Market special in which we source a different fish from Tokyo’s famous market. Speaking of Toyosu, I would not miss out on the Tuna flight. Our tuna is Pacific Bluefin sourced from the market in Tokyo so the quality is ultra high. I would pair the tuna with something bright and on the dry side; a go-to by-the-glass option would be Kokuryu’s “Crystal Dragon”.

Is there a particular moment when you realized sake was going to become your career rather than simply an interest?

There have been several “moments” for me, but, it really comes down to how incredibly nice and welcoming the sake professionals and brewmasters have been. Being greeted with a smile and hug by my colleagues at trade shows. Hanging out with brewmasters until 5am at Empanada Mama in Hell’s Kitchen. Or sharing a Thanksgiving dinner table with a Michelin-Star omakase chef at an invite-only izakaya. Those moments of community is what drives me to love this industry.

When you’re not working, what are you drinking at home? Is it still sake, or do you find yourself reaching for something completely different?

It’s still mostly sake! Though I also love my whiskies. I tend to gravitate towards Weller bourbons or blended Japanese whiskies. There are some others that I lean towards - Chartreuse, Barrow’s Intense ginger liqueur, and whatever the Bitter Monk folks are distilling.

What restaurant, cafe, or bar do you find yourself frequenting most after work?

I mentioned them previously, but our lovely sake neighbors Steight and Asoko. Steight is more of sneaky spot that I can escape to and chat with Zach or Nate about cool new happenings in the industry. The bar is located in the back of a hair salon and is usually unmarked. Asoko is the sake community watering hole, so I go there to have fun and hang out with other industry professionals.

How do you relax outside of work?

So many different ways. Football, soccer and F1 are my bread and butter. I’ll listen to or play music - I originally moved to NYC to pursue a trumpet performance degree. I can still check out my jazz professor, 8-time Grammy winner Arturo O’Farrill, at The Pocket on Tuesdays. And lastly, I love my anime and video games - I cosplayed as Fern last year at AnimeNYC.

Full Name, Age, and Where are you from?

Francisco Castillo, 38 years old, from Chile.

What is your title and how are you involved with Café Bar J.F.?

Executive Chef.

What inspired you to get into this industry?

Before getting into the industry, I wasn’t thinking about it that much, but how inclusive and welcoming it is inspires me day to day.

The restaurant draws inspiration from tavern culture across Peru, Chile, and Argentina. What is it about those spaces that continues to resonate with you personally?

The feeling of familiarity and nostalgia resonates with me in a very personal way.

What is the best meal you’ve ever had?

The best meal I’ve ever had was at Sushi Sho last year.

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The menu moves across different South American influences without feeling overly rigid or traditional. Was it important to avoid defining the restaurant by one specific cuisine?

We want to show how broad South American cuisine is in a not-so-obvious way, so we allow ourselves to be a bit diffuse and not rigid, allowing us to move freely from a creative point of view..

It’s my first time at Cafe Bar J.F. What is the must-have dish on the menu?

Celery Salad.

Williamsburg’s dining scene has changed dramatically over the last decade. How do you hope Cafe Bar J.F. fits into the neighborhood today?

It’s such a cliché, but we are really aiming to be a neighborhood restaurant that welcomes everyone.

What restaurant, café, or bar do you find yourself frequenting most after work?

I don’t frequent places after work, but I do before work. Glory Days Café on Frost Street.

How do you relax outside of work?

I like to exercise, listen to music, watch movies, buy clothes, and read.

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In the past year or so, froyo in New York has picked up major attention among tourists and trend-chasing locals alike. Frozen yogurt has come along way since Pinkberry, Menchies, and 16 Handles opened in the 2000s. Nearly 20 years later, we are witnessing yet another resurgence, a renaissance if you will. People are no longer filling up their own cups of artificially flavored yogurt topped with M&Ms and mochi for a cheap treat. Now, people are waiting on hour long lines at aesthetic, designer-like stores with organic, probiotic yogurt and premium housemade toppings like pistachio kataifi or brown butter cookie dough, praying that their total is under $20. With five new froyo shops opening in the past year alone, the froyo scene in the city can be overwhelming. That’s where I come in.

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While I do not consider myself an expert on frozen yogurt, I like to think I have my finger on the pulse on the scene in the city. When I was asked to write this article, I knew exactly where I wanted to go and how I wanted to go about it. In my mind, there are nine froyo shops in the city that represent this renaissance of froyo. Now to make things more interesting, I decided to do it all in one day, and on foot (for the sake of my own health more than anything). The plan was simple: a froyo crawl between the flagship locations of the nine key establishments starting on the Upper East Side and making my way south to the West Village with a detour in Soho. Without further ado, here is an amateur’s guide to New York froyo:

Froyo Map

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Tell us a little about yourself: Did you grow up here or did you emigrate from China as a child? How has that affected your childhood & identity?

I was born and raised in the SF Bay Area in California. Growing up in a diverse environment really opened up my eyes to different cultures, especially via food. My childhood food memories span from dim sum, to pho, to burritos, to steak, and so on.

How do you think Chinese cuisine in Houston has evolved alongside different immigration waves?

Being a relative newcomer myself (I moved here in 2018) I can only speak to the scene as I see it now. There seems to have been a good influx of different regional Chinese cuisines, not just the old-school Cantonese/Chinese American ones that are more common in cities. You can find representations of Chinese food styles that range from Sichuan, Uyghur, Mongolian, to Taiwanese. Even Chinese chains like Haidilao and Hui Lau Shan have made their way here in recent years, which is a good indicator of interest in Chinese food in Houston.

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Houston’s Chinese food scene spans Cantonese banquet halls to Sichuan strip-mall gems. Where does your style fit into that lineage?

Agnes and Sherman’s style only loosely fits into this lineage of traditional Chinese cuisine. As an Asian American diner, none of the food that we do is particularly traditional, though it is authentic to my own experiences growing up in California and working in New York. These other great Chinese restaurants you can find in Houston are trying to bring a taste of their specific hometown or region to the dining public, whereas Agnes and Sherman is more on the end of trying to broaden the mainstream view of what American food is and seeing what cross-cultural connections can be made in a city as diverse as Houston.

You and your partner run the restaurant together. How does that partnership shape the food, creatively and culturally?

Lisa and I’s partnership shapes the food in the sense that we both have similar thoughts about culture and what feels organic and natural. With her background of growing up in Taiwan, South Africa, and immigrating to America during her teenage years, we both have an innate sense of what an Asian American diner should look and feel like, even though there is not a solid point of reference of what it is. In that sense, we are able to bounce ideas off of each other and understand which things feel contrived or forced and which things feel organically like an Asian American diner.

How have regional Chinese flavors, whether from your family’s background or broader diaspora influences, shown up in your cooking?

Cantonese and Chinese American flavor profiles are definitely more prevalent on the menu as that has been my upbringing. Taiwanese flavors also have a strong presence on the menu, as Lisa is Taiwanese and we wanted to bring some of her background into the menu as well.

Houston is one of the most diverse cities in the country. How has that cross-cultural energy influenced your menu?

Houston has influenced the menu in a huge way with the depth of diversity that exists here. Our menu has had elements of Korean, Nigerian, Mexican, Japanese, Pakistani, Cajun, Lebanese, and even Southern cuisine all on at the same time. Again, none of the dishes we create are necessarily traditional, but in a city like Houston, there are plenty of options for diners to go to more traditional restaurants alongside a more eclectic concept like ours.

Do you feel like you’re cooking more for the Chinese community, the broader Houston audience, or somewhere in between?

I feel like I’m cooking for the broader Houston audience. In my relatively short time here, I have discovered Houstonians to be very open to new flavors and experiences and the community has been very welcoming. To honor that, I wanted to make sure that Agnes and Sherman is a diner for all of Houston.

As Chinese American cuisine continues to evolve, what feels exciting or overdue right now?

I think the most exciting thing to see is other cross cultural cuisines getting more of a spotlight much like Chinese American food has gotten here in the States for the past few decades. Chifa and Nikkei cuisines in Peru, Japanese Yoshoku food, cha chaan tengs in Hong Kong, Indo-Chinese food, Chinese Puerto Rican/Dominican food, and the list goes on and on. These are the cuisines and flavors that I think best represent who we are and who we can be as a country and as a global community.

All photo credit goes to Zach Horst

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It’s as if a mid-century modern Black home and an art gallery came together in a space that just so happened to be a restaurant.

Honeysuckle is a space where people come together to learn, laugh, share memories and sometimes even cry together. It is a transformative place where people are made to feel more seen and whole than when they first walked through the front doors. And I’m not just talking about the guests who dine at Honeysuckle… There is something special about this place that fosters an exchange of ideas, feelings, and memories that enhances the lives of both the team that works so hard to care for and shape Honeysuckle, as well as the guests who dine here.

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It’s a space that synthesizes the qualities of a classroom, laboratory, and restaurant; a space that encourages creative expression, community, and empowerment. Honeysuckle serves as an example of why it is so important for restaurants to function as third spaces- beyond good service, food and drinks- in order to build community, relationships and ultimately to shape culture.

“Third spaces” are places that are outside of our homes and workplaces, where people connect with their community and even turn strangers into friends.

Honeysuckle’s interior design actively challenges both isolation and individualism. Our three dining spaces- the living room, the main dining room, and the bar & lounge area- are intimately designed to encourage guests to lean into the idea of community and relationship building. Far from a traditional restaurant layout, the living room is made up of two couch lounges and three farm tables that allow us to seat a number of parties next to each other. At first some guests might be hesitant to sit at a communal table for dinner, but as the meal goes on they soften into the space and into themselves. Oftentimes, beautiful moments occur between guests that are dining next to each other at the farm tables.

I’ve watched complete strangers tear up and share memories with each other from their childhood after having taken a sip of our Black Cake cocktail, which reminded them of their grandmother’s Black Cake recipe that they hadn’t tasted in decades.

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At the core of Honeysuckle’s philosophy is memory work, cultural preservation, and cultural production. This space can be considered a living archive of sorts. Upon entering the restaurant you are greeted by the sounds of the Black diaspora reverberating throughout the space. An altar erected directly in the front door, adorned with Black ancestors who have deeply shaped the Black diaspora and Black culture around the world - artists, writers, political activists, chefs, musicians, and more - is one of the first things guests encounter.

Additionally, art installations created by Chef-Owner Omar Tate are positioned throughout the space, piquing guests’ curiosities and interests.

Honeysuckle and all the elements within it- from the farm-to-table menu to the beverage program to the fermentation laboratory to the music playing to the art and archival items found throughout the restaurant- are deeply inspired by and grounded in the cultures and histories of Chef Omar Tate, Chef Cybille St. Aude-Tate, and their families.

Throughout the meal, servers encourage guests to get up, take in their surroundings, and ask anyone on our team about the different elements throughout the restaurant. With each course and beverage that touches our guests’ tables, our team shares the origins and stories behind dishes of the African Diaspora, many of which people are unfamiliar with. I’ve worked in the service industry for many years, and I can honestly say that I have witnessed the relationship between our guests and our team transcend a relation based on commodity, service, and transaction that is so typical in many restaurants. It is because of the dedication, care and openness that our team devotes not only to cultural preservation at Honeysuckle, but because they are equally devoted to caring for and making each guest who dines with us feel seen, every single service, that transforms Honeysuckle beyond a restaurant and into a third space.

Apart from dinner service, we have created a special event series curated by chef-owners Cybille St. Aude-Tate & Omar Tate, called Open Studios that celebrate artistry, imagination, and community. Each session invites the general public, community organizers, creatives, and food lovers alike to experience a dynamic mix of artist talks, interactive workshops, and live performances inside the restaurant space itself! What is beautiful about these curated events is that we get to welcome so many new people, many of whom have never dined with us or even heard about Honeysuckle before. These events create a space for people of different generations, cultures, and professional-backgrounds to build more connections, not only with the Honeysuckle team, but with each other.

The intimate atmosphere at Honeysuckle allows for a feeling of warmth to ripple throughout the space. The sounds of Aretha Franklin, D’Angelo, and Kokoroko resonate throughout the entire restaurant as the candlelight dances on tables of guests while the unique flavors of our food and drinks entice their palates and their spirits. Servers share stories with guests about the food, drinks and artwork, captivating the guests, guiding them through what they are experiencing. Laughs bellow across the room as the sunset shines through the large-open windows creating a homely glow that washes across the entire space. While at Honeysuckle, the outside world fades away and the here and now is all that is left.

At Honeysuckle, I’ve had the privilege of helping this third space really take shape and the honor of being able to witness the impact Honeysuckle has had on so many people’s lives already and we’ve only just begun. Third spaces are so necessary for building community and the advancement of culture, and restaurants are in such a unique position to seize the times and do both.

By: Chelsea Martin

In no particular order at all, here are some of our favorite moments from this past wintery season.

1. Sunday Afternoon Tea at the Wythe Hotel. Winter light hits their rooftop restaurant, Bar Blondeau in a way that makes you feel like a cat lazily sunbathing. The afternoon tea experience was delightful and the array of pastries are impressive. We enjoy savory more than sweet so loved the sandwiches but loved the scones with jam. Our only call outs - wish there was clotted cream and we had more choices of tea to choose from.

2. Le Veau D’or - if you are able to snag a reservation, highly recommend coming in the winter time. Originally established in 1937, this place has that je ne sais quoi that new restaurants will never have. It’s so old school New York, the best French food you can get and the vibes are immaculate.

3. The simple but memorable combination of stilton and pears.

4. Breakfast by Salts Cure

5. Meetinghouse Beer in Philly - Rebecca swears it was her best meal of the year.

6. Whipped coffees and pastries at Caffe de Martini in Prospect Heights

7. Borgo!!

8. This is not so much a rec but a word of caution - we used to be big Lafayette fans, it used to be a great spot to walk in to with a high success rate but the food itself has gone severlyy downhill. The gem salad tasted like it was depressed, the NY strip steak was severely under salted, wait staff acted like it was their first day on the job AND after watching 2 tables get their disruptive sparklers on a fake 3 tier cake as a birthday treat that looked worst than a fast food chain production (and I love fast food..) that was the icing on top that convinced us to never return. Sad because we are a fan of Andrew Carmellini but Lafayette feels like a ghost of its former self.

Happy holidays xo

Angel and the busboy team

At Lobel’s, six generations of our family have been behind the butcher block, cutting, curing, and cooking some of the finest meats in the country. Over the years, we’ve heard just about every meat myth in the book—from old wives’ tales, to internet misinformation. In an attempt to clarify what you should and shouldn’t believe, here’s some things to keep in mind next time you’re buying or preparing meat.

Myth #1: You Can’t Refreeze Meat Once It’s Thawed

This one has been making the rounds for decades, and it’s simply not true — if you’re handling your meat properly. Meat that’s been thawed slowly and safely in the refrigerator can absolutely be refrozen without compromising safety. The key is temperature control. As long as the meat hasn’t been left out at room temperature for extended periods, you’re in the clear. Will the texture change slightly? Possibly. But flavor and safety remain intact.

Myth #2: White Meat Is Always Healthier Than Red Meat

We hear this a lot, especially from folks watching their diets. While it’s true that white meats like chicken or turkey breast can be leaner, that’s not the whole picture. Add the skin back on, and suddenly your “lean” white meat packs more fat and calories than a beautifully trimmed cut of beef. Take filet mignon or a center-cut New York strip—both are lean, high in protein, and low in saturated fat when trimmed correctly. In other words: red meat isn’t the enemy.

Myth #3: You Have to Cook Meat Until It’s Well Done to Be Safe

Safety has more to do with temperature than color or doneness. Ground meats should always be cooked to 160°F, since bacteria can be mixed throughout during grinding. But for steaks, roasts, and chops, 135°F (medium rare) is perfectly safe—because bacteria live on the surface, not inside the cut. That’s why a proper sear does more than add flavor—it’s a safety step, too. Use a meat thermometer, and you’ll never have to overcook your steak out of fear again.

Myth #4: Organic or Grass-Fed Means It’s Healthier

Labels like “organic” and “grass-fed” often speak more to farming practices than nutrition. While there are subtle nutritional differences—such as slightly higher Omega-3s in grass-fed beef—the real variation is in taste, sustainability, and ethics. Grass-fed beef tends to have a more pronounced, earthy flavor. Organic practices can reflect a commitment to animal welfare and environmental stewardship. But nutritionally? The gap is narrower than most think.

Myth #5: Red Meat Is Just Bad for You, Period

While moderation and method matter, most of the health concerns surrounding red meat come from processed meats or meats that are heavily charred. A responsibly portioned, properly cooked steak? That’s a whole different story. Focus less on the meat itself and more on how it’s cooked. Grilling, roasting, and pan-searing are all great methods—just avoid burning or blackening your meat beyond recognition.

Rapid Fire Additional Myth Busting:

● Short-Term Freezing Ruins Meat: Not true. Frozen well and defrosted correctly, meat can be almost as good as fresh!

● Washing Meat Removes Bacteria: This is a no-go. All you’re doing is spreading bacteria around your sink. Heat, not water, kills bacteria.

● Pork Has to Be Gray to Be Safe: Not anymore. If your pork reaches 145°F, a little blush of pink is perfectly fine—and often more delicious.

● Microwaving Meat Is Unsafe: Not ideal for quality, but totally safe. Just don’t expect the same texture as other methods.

● Fat Is the Enemy: Fat is flavor! A well-marbled steak or chop makes for a rich and delicate piece of meat.

A few ways I have lived more spontaneously this past week:

1. Tried out a new restaurant. well - this was less spontaneous because it was a planned bachelorette but we had a late night dins reservation at eel bar in the LES (highly recommend - I could have kept popping back pickled cucumbers & anchovy gildas) but we did end up walking around downtown manhattan and seeing where the night took us. I actually haven’t had this type of evening in years and it was so nice to meet amazing women who have been in my peripheral world and just be girls and go out, drink and dance. and i was still able to wake up at 9 am today and have a day so a win is a win.

2. Stayed up late to binge watch house of guinness. in my younger days, i used to be such a good binge watcher - I was especially prolific during the pandemic and got caught up to modern day grey’s anatomy. I have lost that skill somewhat but I’ve been letting myself indulge and press “next episode” this weekend just so I can truly relax.

3. Went to my local co-op and purchased kiwi berries for the first time. these little guys are so addicting - if you like kiwis, you’ll end up popping these back and finishing the pack in a day.

4. Try out new recipes. I’m a creature of habit and typically meal prep the same few meals that are tried and true but I’m trying to find myself in the kitchen more, not just because of necessity but because of enjoyment. I heard @lindseyeats is launching her cookbook this week and was lucky enough to receive a recipe in advance from her upcoming release something delicious - below.

TURMERIC DAL WITH MINTY-LIME YOGURT & CRISPY ONIONS

Dal is something I grew up eating, lovingly prepared by all my aunts (Mom not included). If you’ve never had dal before, it is a classic Indian stew of spices and lentils. Each one of my aunts has her own unique way of making this comfort dish. My Aunt Lulu adds amchoor (dried mango powder), Aunt Nina adds fresh cilantro and jalapeno, Aunt Renee makes a tadka (a sizzled chili spiced oil, or ghee, which is spooned over top), and Aunt Florette blends most of the mixture for a smooth finish. However, there is one thing they all have in common: They are all something delicious!

My take: Adding mint yogurt and crispy onions, I’m taking inspiration from the Persian soup ash, Danny’s favorite. The crunch from the onions works so well with the cooling effect from the yogurt and dal.

SERVES 4

30 MINUTES

TURMERIC DAL

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, ghee, or neutral oil

1⁄2 cup finely chopped yellow onion

2 large garlic cloves, minced or grated

1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced or grated

1 teaspoon curry powder (or 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin and 1⁄2 teaspoon ground coriander)

1⁄2 teaspoon garam masala

1⁄2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1⁄4 teaspoon chili powder, red pepper flakes, or cayenne pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 1⁄2 cups red lentils, rinsed

4 cups water, or more as needed

CRISPY ONIONS

1⁄4 cup neutral oil

1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced

Kosher salt

MINTY-LIME YOGURT

1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt

Juice of 1 large lime, plus lime wedges for squeezing

1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh mint, plus more for serving

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

A Pot o’Rice

Chili Crisp, optional

1. Make your Turmeric Dal: In a large saucepan or Dutch oven with a lid, heat the butter over medium heat until glistening. Add the onion and saute until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Add your garlic and ginger, tossing to combine. Add the curry powder, garam masala, turmeric, chili powder, and salt and black pepper, stirring constantly, until the spices are fragrant but not browned, 1 to 2 minutes or until fragrant.

2. Toss in your rinsed lentils and do a final stir. Add the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender and the dal has thickened significantly, 15 to 20 minutes. If you find it is getting too thick for your preference, adjust with a dash of water, as needed, tossing to combine.

3. Make your Crispy Onions: While your lentils are cooking, line a plate with paper towels and set near the stove. In a small deep pan, combine the neutral oil and onions and bring the heat to medium-high. Stir frequently, until the onions become golden brown and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to the paper towels to drain any excess oil. Season with salt. Store any oil from the pan in a mason jar or squeeze bottle for up to a week for use in any future cooking (such as eggs or salad dressings!).

4. Make your Minty-Lime Yogurt: In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt, lime juice, mint, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.

5. To serve: Ladle your dal into serving bowls over rice, topping with a dollop of minty-lime yogurt, crispy onions, mint, lime juice, and Chili Crisp (if using).

Have a great weekend and remember to say yes this week,

Angel

That’s not to say I don’t like corn tortillas - I will eat them. I had a buffalo cauliflower taco on blue corn tortillas at Jajaja earlier this week (but I will admit I did eat the fillings and leave half the tortilla on my plate). There’s just something about the chewiness of a fresh, griddled flour tortilla that provides a sensory overload that corn doesn’t grant me. Flour tortilla with protein of choice + the umami-ness of cheese + pickled red onions and slaw = perfect bite.

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Back to my point…since I’ve dived into my breadmaking side quests, I have been auditing all of the other carbohydrates that I eat frequently. Focaccia, I got on lock. Rye bread - WIP. Tortillas? I’ve always purchased them from Vista Hermosa when and if I could find them at Whole Foods. But a few weekends ago, when I made a trip to my local grocery store and checked out the selection, I hated to see so many additional ingredients. One brand even added in blue food coloring to the blue corn tortillas. From that moment onward, it was either I was going to get Vista Hermosa or I was going to make my own.

I found a recipe online by Inspired Taste that I have been replicating and testing out and absolutely loving. After 3-4 batches, I found I typically do not need the entire amount of water I prepped and butter (specifically Vital Farms butter) tastes better as the fat versus using pork lard.

I’m also in the process of testing out tortilla sizes and seeing if I’m able to replicate a burrito sized tortilla at home - would be perfect for bean burritos. I have been following this Tiktok creator who I have been online stalking (appropriately!) because her wraps look incredible.

@maryelouisCheck it out - Tex-Mex Breakfast Burrito using what I have on hand. This is the type of meal you can pull together without grocery shopping, if you adhere to my lean pantry stock list. The sauce is just cashews, salsa verde from a jar, some granulated garlic, salt and water. Tofu scramble is tofu, minced onion, turmeric, granulated onion, granulated garlic, nutritional yeast and an optional splash of non-dairy milk. Thanks, Matt! The hashbrowns are TJ’s brand and I always have like 3 packs in the freezer. Same with my burrito size tortillas because, if you haven’t noticed, I eat wraps and burritos ALL THE TIME. The black beans are canned, easy enough. And that’s it - burrito time! #vegetarian #eatmoreplants #plantbased #nutrientdense #pregnancyjourney #postpartum #pantrygoals #pantryrestock #veganfood #antidiet #intuitiveeating #plantbasedrecipes #breakfast #brunch

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So far, I do think this is a very easy project and putting some time aside each Sunday has been a game changer. I’ll make a batch that will last us 1-2 weeks (depending on how many dinner tacos and breakfast meals we want out of it) and it tastes way better than store bought. We are a big fish taco household and have had this twice in the past couple of weeks. Homemade pickled red onions are also a must!

As I continue my tortilla journey, I do want to invest in a tortilla press (hint hint close friends it’s on my wedding registry).

Till next time,

Angel

PS. This next week’s project is testing out the hydration levels in focaccia. I have been doing 1:1 but now have added 40 grams more water (600 g total) versus 560 bread flour. Updates to come.

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A few months ago, quite randomly, I got comfortable with measuring in grams on a scale and put my measuring cups away + ordered 2 bags of flour, 1 AP and 1 bread. I got sent a focaccia recipe from Lily (formally of Busboy - hey girl!) and somehow I was able to lock TF in. I also give credit to Tiktok creator/Substacker whose DITL as a private caterer got me hyperfixated on her videos, specifically the focaccia ones.

@caroline.i.andersonLoved how this turned out! Some of the sauce seeped out and formed a caramelized crust around the outside. You have to try it! The full recipe is on my substack ❤️#focaccia #focacciarecipe #focacciabread #monkeybread

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Since then, I’ve baked at least 1 focaccia a week and found major success in this realm.

Look at that crumb!! I’ve been eating focaccia as the carb with breakfast. It’s made an incredibly full meal that keeps me going until at least 1 PM. Scrambled eggs, chicken apple sausage, a scoop of cottage cheese + bread = perfection.

Earlier this week, I also attempted a braided bake. I think I need to move my rack higher up in the oven but I’ll continue to workshop this one.

Where am I am in this new gluten filled world of mine? Figuring out a good Rye bread recipe. I have tried the Rye recipe on King Arthur Baking but I found that I had little to no rise and it was still extremely dense. I tried this twice to no avail.

My Favorite Bakes to Date:

Aurora James’ Banana Bread Recipe - I did bake this a couple of times during the pandemic and even mailed this to Rebecca when it wasn’t safe for face-to-face interactions.

No Knead Focaccia - I just add an extra 50g of water which has helped me get that

Italian Sesame Bread via King Arthur Baking. This is the one I am still workshopping but I have high hopes!

Next week, I will share some of my favorite bread baking tools so home bakers, please let me know what you can’t live without too - would love to continue to have an excuse to continue to buy tools.

Until next week x

Angel

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Full Name, Age and Where are you from?

My name is Pietro Quaglia, I’m 45 years old and originally from Milan, Italy.

What’s the main difference between Pietro’s then and Pietro’s now?
Pietro Nolita has undergone a thoughtful evolution, both aesthetically and in spirit. In the early days, the vibe was playful—think pink, kitschy, and lighthearted. Today, we’ve matured into something more elegant... The space feels more sophisticated and sexy, yet remains warm and inviting. Our goal was to create the feeling of a true Milanese living room—stylish yet approachable—where guests can enjoy top-tier cocktails alongside simple, authentic Italian dishes made with love and intention.

Describe the new changes to Pietro’s—furniture, lighting, and overall atmosphere.
The redesign leans into a vintage Italian aesthetic with a touch of modern elegance. We’ve introduced round terrazzo tables, a stunning marble bar, a vintage-print couch, and retro lighting elements that together channel the glamour and intimacy of Milan in the ’70s and ’80s. The atmosphere is mature and sultry without feeling pretentious—ideal for a night out that’s both elevated and easygoing.

What is the must-have drink on the menu?
There are a few standouts. The blood orange margarita is always a crowd-pleaser: bright, citrusy, and refreshing. The espresso martini is another classic that never fails. But my go-to is the jalapeño cucumber margarita—fresh and spicy.

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Which musical artist are you loving right now, and who would be your dream DJ at Pietro’s?
I’m constantly inspired by my dear friend Isabella Massanet. She has an incredible ear for music and a unique ability to blend old-school gems with contemporary beats. She brings an unmistakable energy to any space she curates.

What’s your favorite restaurant in New York, and what are you ordering?

After 25 years in New York, my favorite restaurant remains Indochine. It’s a classic. I’ve been religiously ordering the steamed ravioli, baby ribs, and saketinis for years. The atmosphere is unbeatable—always consistent, always delicious.

Anything exciting coming up for you?

I’m planning another trip to Japan with my wife soon. Japanese culture has truly captivated us with its deep sense of tradition paired with a forward-thinking creative spirit. We'd love to live in Tokyo for a year or so eventually.

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Full Name, Age and Where are you from?

My name is Sergio Nakayoshi. I’m Peruvian Japanese, and grew up in St. Louis Missouri. Shout out to Sexxy.

What is your title and where do you work?

I’m the Executive Chef here at Papa San.

What are some of the more challenging parts of opening a restaurant that the general public might not think about?

The most challenging part of opening a restaurant is the amount of hours that go behind planning, training, organizing, opening, and operating. My favorite quote by my friend Drake Maret is “everyone has a plan until you get punched in the face”. There are always gonna be things that don’t go as planned, you just need to be a rock and make the best decision possible and keep going. There is always light at the end of the tunnel.

What have been your top family meals as of late?

We take pride in our family meals. The best one so far was made the first week when all the sous chefs and chefs were starting to work with each other and learn about each other. We had a chicken adobo from Dan–he is from Cambodia–, an Aji verde from Jose Luis from Mexico, Tania is Tex Mex and made rice and pico de gallo, Sang’s our CDC from Korea so he brought the kimchi, Aaron from Seattle made a cucumber salad, and Nat brought the chips and guacamole. It was a delicious meal where everyone contributed a piece of themselves. It was also the top family meal because it was the first time cooking for each other as a team of chefs so you didn’t want to not bring it.

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How would you describe Papa San’s cuisine?

Papa San’s food is a new interpretation of Nikkei food. Peruvian food has been so influenced by the marriage of these two cultures in the last century, that I feel the food we make is a product of the evolution of Peruvian food. Nikkei food is a marriage of these two cuisines in Peru, and Papa San evolves as the migration of Nikkei food to another country and culture–this third factor now being New York.

It's your night off, what restaurant have you been meaning to try?

It’s my night off, I want a beer. My mind takes me to get the kilo of meats at Carnitas Ramirez. That’s all I crave.

What are some of your favorite ingredients utilized at Papa San that people might not be familiar with?

I love using my Peruvian Chiles that are available in the United States. Aji Amarillo, Aji panca, Aji limo, We also use a lot of katsobushi and dried shiitake mushrooms, can’t forget perilla oil and leaves. These Japanese ingredients marry so well with our cooking.

What are three things you can’t live without right now? (Restaurants, kitchen utensils, books, it can be anything!)

3 things I can’t live without right now are my Apple Watch, my headphones, and Citi Bikes. It’s my daily meditation for 45 min on my way to work. Got to keep zen.

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We shed our coats and shake off the cold that stuck to us on the walk from her apartment. After ordering a customary cup of pot coffee (a guaranteed first of several), I take a chance to soak in the Bushwick institution that's withstood the test of eight decades.

There is magic here, as there is in most great diners, in the simplicity of it all: a constant stream of coffee that flows directly from an industrial brewer seemingly straight into patrons' expecting, ever-depleting mugs; a menu that is steadfast in its straightforwardness — taking pride in the fact that it's as affordable as it is filling; a waitstaff that feels simply inseparable from the diner itself, pacing between tasks like worker bees, but all equally as important as the queen bee.

This scene — this beautiful scene — feels more and more rare in a city where the cost of doing anything keeps creeping up. Rebecca eulogizes past establishments that didn't make through her decade-plus as a New Yorker. Good Stuff on 14th. Jimmy's on Union. All of which have shuttered their doors only to be reinvented for their next life as a sushi spot or a french bistro, respectively.

Change can, at times, feel like the only constant in New York's restaurant scene. Buildings that once housed a decade-plus worth of memories can overnight shapeshift into something new, something different — lathered clean by a fresh coat of paint and a new name.

But the death of a diner feels more personal. These spaces, by design, saddle you as close as possible to not only your friend, acquaintance, or lover but also your neighbors. People can be anonymous until you're both pressed up to the diner bar, forced to occupy the same minimal space available and, even if only a little, to become aware of the lives that your fellow New Yorkers are living. Their journeys, their stories, where they're coming from, and what they're ducking away from. What collective spaces they're currently mourning.

There is a stark need for more diner-like spaces where people can congregate, get a cheap, filling meal, and just exist for a while. And on that Sunday, I'm grateful that Tina's exists and that Rebecca approaches diner ordering the same way I do (one savory and one sweet dish to be shared). Even though there's a long list of closed doors in Rebecca's favorites, this one remains open. And I'm grateful we get to spend that Sunday afternoon eating, eavesdropping, and hiding away from the rain.

By Aaron Christianson

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P.S. Here are a few of our favorite diners that are still open. While we encourage you to check these out, we doubly suggest you visit your local diner to see what it's all about.

• Tom’s Restaurant in Prospect Heights

• Court Square Diner in Long Island City

• La Bonbonniere NYC in the West Village

• Gracie’s on 2nd in Yorkville

• Montague Diner in Brooklyn Heights

• B&H Dairy in Noho

• Bel Aire Diner in Astoria

• Waverly Diner in the West Village

• Andrew’s Diner in Eltingville

Cory O’Brien-Pniewski, 35, West Bloomfield, MI.

What is your title and where do you work?

Taproom Head Bartender, The Dead Rabbit NYC.

It's someone's first time at Dead Rabbit, what would you recommend that they order?

Definitely the Irish Coffee made with Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey. It’s our most well known drink, and we execute it flawlessly – a perfectly balanced cocktail and a St. Patrick’s Day favorite at The Dead Rabbit.

Do you remember an exact moment that your passion for cocktail development started?

The first time I had a cocktail with egg white in 2011. It really opened a door for me in terms of learning more about cocktail complexity and texture, and it jumped started my interest in cocktail development.

What was your first bartending job?

I had worked part time in bars and restaurants while going to school over the years but my first bartending job in NYC was 2014 at a bourbon bar in Harlem. I was part of the opening team.

It's your night off, where are you heading to grab a drink outside of work?

On my night off I’m heading uptown to ROKC for a bowl of Ramen and a highball.

In your opinion, what are the elements of a perfectly balanced cocktail?

In my opinion, a cocktail not only should be balanced but should also tell a story. The best cocktails are the ones that tell the best stories. A cocktail should have a nice balance of flavors with a high note in the middle but one that develops as it washes over your palate and takes you on a journey as you drink it. When developing cocktails, I believe you should focus on quality of ingredients over quantity of ingredients. I find that in most cases, less is more.

My name is Tomo Kubo. I am 43 years old and I am from Tokyo, Japan. I was worried about naming the restaurant TabeTomo (which translates to “eating buddy”) at first. In Japan, this would be considered a weird name for a restaurant so I was worried that if we failed, people would say it's because of the name. Now that we’ve opened and been in business for 6 years, I’m happy I made that decision.

What is your position at TabeTomo?

I am the Chef Partner.

How have you been navigating the reopening after the fire?

The fire was de-motivating from a business standpoint, but it was touching to see all the support from the neighbors and community. The silver lining was that it gave us time to take a step back and take all our experiences the past 6 years and really apply those lessons going forward to create a better experience for our supporters.

What has been the most motivating factor of this process?

Definitely the East Village community and all of our neighbors. It was touching seeing all the regulars stop by during our renovation, asking when we will re-open and offering their support. We were also blown away by the support we received on grand opening day.

Are there any new plans for the restaurant as you enter this next chapter? 

We just want to continue improving and working to provide a better experience for our customers. Going through COVID, the protests, and now this fire, the team’s mantra has always been to take any challenge and use it as an opportunity to learn.

There is a popular Japanese proverb “nana korobi ya oki” which translates to “fall down seven, get up eight”, and has become the team’s slogan. After re-opening, it’s really now taking that mindset to continue improving and provide even better food and experiences for our customers.

Our vision for TabeTomo has always been a restaurant that’s warm, inviting and friendly—a place that customers want to go to to re-connect with friends and neighbors. We want it to have a cool and energetic vibe similar to sake bars that I grew up in in Tokyo so we’re always working towards that goal.

Favorite menu item? 

Definitely the Tsukemen (or dipping ramen)!

Favorite place to eat out in the East Village (when you aren't at the restaurant!)? 

KENKA on St. Marks! It has great vibes, great deals and I love that izakaya style of food.

So when Sfoglini reached out with their generous gift to send me their new long cuts, it was an immediate, “Yes chef.”

Pasta is one of the categories of food I am so happy to enjoy in a restaurant (Altro Paradiso, Via Carota & Anton’s are top favorites) but equally as happy to make it myself. There’s something about the gathering of ingredients, setting up my mise in place and watching it all come together that is meditative for me. On the weekend, I love a project like a bolognese and during school nights, I love how easy it is to whip up a quick sauce + get dinner on the table in less than 30 minutes.

I tested these two new long pastas in both methods - 1 project and 1 easy recipe with the help of NYTCooking.

Dinner #1 - Bucatini with Drop Turkey Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

You truly can’t go wrong with red sauce. However, next time, would make the turkey meatballs separately i.e. baking it and make the sauce separately. We found the onions weren’t cooked evenly when following this recipe step for step. The highlight of this meal was the bucatini - I love this shape because it is simply so fun to eat. It’s like a noodle straw!

Dinner #2 - Bigoli, Green Beans and Potatoes in Pesto Sauce

I owe NYT Cooking an apology, because when I read this recipe, I was super skeptical of cooking the potatoes, green beans and pasta in the same water for 20 min total and called BS. I’m sorry I ever doubted you. What the potato did do perfectly was add texture and body to the pesto sauce and it felt super hearty. We ate this with local arctic char from our fish shop and it was divine. I had this for lunch leftovers for two days straight and I could have eaten it more.

Sfoglini is definitely an investment but it makes a difference in your meals and you can taste the quality.

I may or may not have added this Year of Pasta subscription to my wedding registry because I can’t get enough.

x

Angel

For those of you who don’t know, I moved to Saint Paul back in the spring and have spent the last few months eating and drinking to the best of my ability; all in hopes of finding my new regular haunts. After a lifetime in New York, I’m hitting a new city with a blank slate and have a long road ahead until my coffee shop once again knows my name and order.

For now, I’ve started a list of the places I already have been frequenting, or anticipating myself heading back to again and again. Give a scroll to the first half of my much anticipated 202

5 Hit List and mark your Google maps for any upcoming trips to the MidWest.

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1. Hyacinth

   Coming in at a hard number one is Hyacinth, a kind of American/Italian/French amalgamation of all the best from each cuisine. Coincidentally, it’s also two blocks from my house. To give you an idea of how often I’m there, in roughly 4 months my camera roll has 210 photos from this one restaurant. Every time I eat here I’m more impressed than the last, a most recent notable being the Roasted Cabbage with Bagna Cauda and bread crumbs (as seen in my scrapbook below).

   They’ve also recently partnered with the Injera Circle on a new supper club exploring Ethiopian cuisine. I was out of town for the first one and shed a literal tear.

2. Myriel

   After Hyacinth, I’m not putting these spots in any particular order (or uploading from my camera roll), but I will say Myriel was competing for #1. Perhaps it’s because the size of the restaurant and the dining set-up feel the most familiar to me, but chef/owner Karyn Tomilson’s induction to Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs doesn’t hurt either. Oh and everything is completely, completely, farm to table. The waiters are great at letting you know what the farm brought in that morning, and any menu changes as a result.

   I prefer to sit at the bar when I’m here, where you can snag a rotating charcuterie with house-made pate and pickled veggies. Ask the bartender for a wine rec, they always hit.

3. Meteor

   In so many ways, Meteor is my dream bar. From the moment you park your car, your dive bar senses will be tingling. A sort of monolith of a building, the front features a glass block wall with colorful twinkle lights behind, giving a kind of otherworldly feel when they emanate through the glass and into the snow. Then you walk inside and boom, it’s the dark and lived-in kind of dive bar you so hoped for, save for the fact there is actual space to move around.

   Where we diverge from this divey trope however is in the drinks. These guys are slinging insanely delicious cocktails. They can make the classics, or you can try from their always-changing list of house specials (including mocktails AND low ABV options).

   The pièce de résistance of Meteor however is the hot dog menu. They offer 3 hot dog styles, and while I can’t remember them all exactly I can tell you one’s got kimchi mayo, one's got pineapple, and one’s got a whole lot of relish.

4. Taqueria y Birriera | La Cuatro Milpas

   If I’m being honest I’ve only eaten at Las Cuatro Milpas once, but it’s not close to me and the fact it’s on this list should tell you enough about how delicious it was. If you’re a Birreria fiend, they’ve got you covered as the name denotes, but I lean more toward a carnitas or lengua taco and can honestly say these were some of the best I’ve had since…May in Mexico.

   Grab a small horchata (It was like 32 oz) and side up to the large windows to let the sunshine hit you while you enjoy. Oh and I just discovered their Instagram and it’s incredible work, Danny Trejo is the cover of 4/5 posts.

5. Small Hours

   Freshly opened in September, I have a soft spot for Small Hours because it’s as new to the Twin Cities as I am. While these kind of wine/listening bars exist in droves in NYC, here it’s pretty one-of-a-kind, and the two owners did a great job building it from the ground up to be unfussy, beautiful, and full of great wine & music. They carefully pick guest selectors for their beautiful vinyl system, and have frequent collabs with winemakers and vermouth brands alike.

   Head in to see if they have seating available (it’s first come, first serve!) and and load up on Gamay, sardines in spicy olive oil, pickles, and chunks of bread. IDEAL!

To be continued…

Oh, we also wanted to leave you with a little footnote on what our team has been loving at home recently. Feel free to send in your recs from kitchen objects to pantry goods, and we’ll include them in next week’s round-up!

• Fish Spatula (Winco’s is a staple)

• Synergy Trilogy Kombucha…sue us!

• Taqueria Al Pastor Chicken Burrito

• Northwood Mushroom’s Morel Butter

• Bagna Cauda on everything, especially this recipe

• Haut Les Choeurs Pet-Nat

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