If anyone’s ever gone to Joe’s Steam Rice Roll in NYC, they know the existence of an even more delicate and thin rice noodle roll that’s a bit different from the standard version offered at dim sum. For years, people (mostly transplants) have asked me if restaurants in Atlanta offer this vers…

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Fuqi Feipian

Fuqi Feipian translates to husband and wife lung pieces, yet another Chinese dish with an unusually poetic description not meant…

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Over the past week, I’ve had many of you reach out in support after my last story. I’ve even had the pleasure of a few phone calls and shared meals to catch up. I know everything will be ok at some point. I learned I can be open and share things about myself without letting my guard down, so I can let in the good people. I’ve learned how to convey my emotions without being emotional, and ultimately get my story and message out. To everyone who checked up on me - and know me enough to know what’s happening is some crazy shit - thank you.

I chose not to go into details for reasons stated in the last story, but also because I know that no matter how many facts or how much evidence I have, it just creates more drama, more finger pointing, and more slander. The kind of people who change the narrative are doing it for control, not truth. It is a losing battle. I hope the group members who chose to partake in these toxic events (they have quite a large roster, from what I remember) put that same amount of energy into something positive, whether it’s growing their own businesses, focusing on their families, or building healthy relationships. Or like I said, get therapy.

But again, a reminder that I will forever have my receipts.

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Human behavior is pretty fascinating. And I keep going back to the same question - how did I let this happen? Or, how did I let this happen so many times in the past decade? I kick myself every now and then, wondering if I just don’t have a good radar for shifty characters. I now have terms that described certain things that happened too. One being triangulation.

Triangulation is a manipulation tactic that involves bringing a third party into a conflict to create division or gain control. Instead of addressing the problem directly, a person uses triangulation to stir things up behind people's backs, often pitting people against one another. It's a classic "divide and conquer" move that often shows up in toxic relationships, family dynamics, and workplace conflict. - Verywellmind.com

As many people know, I am the queen of confrontation. Being socially awkward as it is, it doesn’t phase me to make things even more awkward, so I can solve a problem, or get a message across. I don’t like involving others because it slows down progress. This shitstorm has been a reminder that not everyone chooses to do things this way. They will call all of their friends to talk about a person rather than communicate with the person they are talking about. Knowing triangulation is more common than I thought keeps me wary for the future.

Over the years, I would reiterate the same advice to the same people throughout the duration of our friendships - “have you talked directly to the person about your problem, rather than talking to me?” It was such a ridiculously simple solution but the advice was never taken. I should’ve known right then and there that my being the confidant did not make me immune to being the subject. My impartial stance was seen as frustrating and unsupportive because I was unwilling to take sides. Looking back, I’m grateful to myself for never doing so, because certain people only tell you what they want you to believe. Thankfully, my gut feeling did work for those situations.

I realized white lies aren’t totally harmless either. While white lies can protect people’s feelings from getting hurt (like making up a reason to leave a party early) it creates this perception that these people are being thoughtful and caring, while dismissing the possibility they are prone to lying in a malicious way. Our minds subconsciously balance these perceptions out as one cancels out the other, when in reality, different types can coexist.

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Mentally healthy people celebrate your accomplishments, whereas unhealthy people throw in negative comments in between their congratulations to you. It is subtle, but makes you feel like you need to hide yourself to protect their feelings. A few years ago, I was part of a cookbook. I felt forced to explain why I was in it, while others felt they did just as much work as me, their language bordering on accusation I stole something from them. I ended up spending my time and energy coddling the people around me rather than enjoying the moment, felt like shit, undeserving of the recognition I got. As I’ve said before, impostor syndrome isn’t something that you bring upon yourself, it’s something that is brought upon you by experiences in society.

I gotta wrap this up so I can get back to things that matter. Not that this didn’t matter, but reflections and life lessons only matter as I move forward a bit wiser (and more cautious). These experiences inspire me to try even harder now. Not for validation of others, but an example for how to make the best out of a shitty situation.

A couple weeks ago, I received a borderline threatening DM from a close friend. It was cryptic, instructing me not to associate with a person/venue I work with. When I asked for details, I received another cryptic response. It was a classic intimidation tactic used to hide intent, and not something a friend who cares about you would do. I said lose the attitude, just say what you have to say, or something along those lines. We talked, realized it wasn’t going anywhere, and agreed to meet for a discussion.

After being 90 minutes late, my friend walks into the restaurant and proceeds to cry. The first thing she told me was she would never say anything about me and what we talked about stayed between us.

Obviously, that’s a huge tell. It usually means that’s what they’re doing.

I originally thought we were going to recap the work we had done together. We had some unresolved issues, which I thought we were going to discuss during that meeting. My surprise that I didn’t know what she was talking about made her seem relieved. She proceeded to instruct me not to work at two locations I normally work at. An insistent and persuasive ‘I’m trying to protect you’ explanation while remaining frustratingly vague on the details. Many times, a finger was pointed at sketchy characters at this place, or that place, a phone randomly shoved into my face to see screenshots. I refused to look though; when someone’s not up front with the initial details you asked for yet very pushy on some unrelated screenshots, you begin to doubt the intention.

We parted ways hours later, leaving me more confused than before. For two weeks, it nagged me that something was about to go down. What that was, I had no clue.

Earlier this week, one of the business owners I worked with reached out to me. She was also the same person my friend had given me explicit instruction not to talk to nor do business with anymore.

The business owner recounted to me her entire experience of a food influencer friend group which included my friend, from the short time she was initiated to the time she extricated herself for a number of reasons. One being gossip and shit-talking. In between foodie events, meals at restaurants and in their homes, she claims the group expressed brutal, mean-spirited comments. While gossip can range from helpful to malicious, she claimed to have witnessed the latter, and that their main focus was me.

Gossip, lies, defamation.

I collected nearly three days of information. This business owner knew private details of my life or work, things that I only shared with my friend. Sorry folks, nothing scandalous. Except, these details were wrapped into false narratives that made me look like an entirely different person. A person that deserved to be gossiped and hated.

In one instance, there was a descriptive scenario that couldn’t be made up out of thin air unless my friend shared the story. It was a situation between only three people in the back of a restaurant kitchen that no one else could’ve known about, except the details were skewed or completely fabricated. And therefore potentially damaging to my reputation.

There were claims of petty gossip while scrutinizing my every move on social media; who I was eating with, where I was eating, what types of pop-ups I was doing, giving them ample content for their dinner conversations. But gossip is just gossip, no matter how cruel it is, isn’t something that can be controlled.

There were many more examples, lies wrapped in little truths, more than enough to write a book, and none that was supposed to be public knowledge. Things that have been spread to ruin my reputation, relationships with businesses, nearly affecting my financial situation. Which is why I decided to write this, because once it affects my ability to put food on the table (personally and professionally), all bets are off.

The toughest year in a long time.

My friend was one of the first people I called when my husband got laid off in January. I had shared that because of our financial situation and tight budget, I couldn’t afford certain events. I ramped up on pop-ups and writing gigs, saving some money here and there for the occasions I could afford, none without guilt. Money is a taboo subject, and also one that could be used against me, which it was again and again in a false narrative.

In February, my husband almost died due to complications from a nasal surgery. A broken artery led to a massive hemorrhage. I wasn’t supposed to be home that day, but I was, and called 911 just in time. After observing what looked like a murder scene in our house, the paramedics told me if I waited another ten minutes to call them, he wouldn’t be here. He’s recovered now, but our family, and my kids, have been reeling from PTSD. My kids panic when I decide to pick them up after school (my husband normally does it), because the last time I did it he almost died. One can’t look at, or read about blood without fainting.

I share these traumatic and personal details now, because I can’t fathom why or how someone could want to destroy me when I sometimes feel like I’m already halfway there. These were the same personal details I shared with someone who I thought cared about me, but apparently dismissed to continue a campaign of hate because otherwise these details might elicit sympathy.

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Proof.

After days of playing a fucked up version of a truth or lie game and some digging for substantial evidence I was able to finally refute a claim from my friend, via third party witnesses. While I can’t go into details to protect sources, it was enough to free myself of any nagging doubt due to contradictory evidence. These people seemed to have forgotten I am a journalist too. This one piece of evidence also invalidated a slew of other fabrications my friend shared with me, one unraveling the next.

The thing about facts is that once they are substantiated, they still remain so, no matter who the sources are. Any attacks on an individual’s character to discredit them and create doubt (ie. past “bad” behavior or statements) do not invalidate an established truth.

As Jamilla Jamil once said on her substack, ‘I could be a fucking murderer and what I say about society would still be true. It doesn't matter who I am, what I look like, or how I behave.’

From an ignorant person’s perspective, it seems like we’re taking sides with each other, when in actuality we’re both siding with the truth. There are no sides with facts.

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House of Cards.

Toxic friend groups like these have fiercely loyal followers because they have so much dirt on each other, and fight tooth and nail for the others knowing their own lives and reputations are on the line, if they step out of line. Whether they were participants in spreading lies, gossipers, or simply bystanders witnessing things unfold, groups like this can fall apart like a house of cards unless they double down with more elaborate lies, slandering whistleblowers along the way. The problem with lies are they are hard to keep straight with a large group, and patience and time was all I needed to gather the facts.

Being a writer (and a good listener), I love to sit back and wait for facts to arise. And even if I’ll never get all the facts to stories, I can establish the truth isn’t being told. The longer I wait and stay quiet, the more verbal diarrhea, unhinged social media rants and emotionally reactive statements come out, riddled with contradictions.

The same goes for one on one conversations; the longer I stay quiet in a conversation, the more the other person tries to fill the gaps of silence, sometimes with contradictory details when the same story is repeated. And when demanding simple answers to clear questions, are they answering them or redirecting/deflecting? Once redirection is used multiple times for the same question (ie. slandering the person giving the information with refusal to answer), it sends a clear message they aren’t being honest. Which is exactly what happened when demanding answers from my friend. It’s easy to simply tell the truth, not much thought is required to do so.

Why did I decide to share all of this?

This wasn’t meant to be an exposé (there are no names or details here), but I share my experience as a tale of caution. I’m also protecting myself from the potential damage to my name, reputation, and business relationships. Both of these venues help me make money, with one even pressured to increase my fee by people within the toxic group.

I do fear of retribution for speaking out, being fully aware that bringing attention so publicly has its risks. It’s a risk I have to take because of the damage that’s already done. So when I finally get MY fake one star reviews from influencers or experience fallout from some new smear campaign, I hope it’s met with a layer of scrutiny and skepticism of their underlying malicious intent.

While no names were shared, they will publicly out themselves if they decide to attack me, and that will be their choice they make, not mine. If any of them want to link themselves to the dispicable acts, many with proof via third party accounts, screenshots, and time stamps, it’s their funeral.

Being a semi-public figure for years, I always expect there to be a few people who have nothing better to do than hate-follow my social media in order to distract themselves from their own miserable lives, or use me and my semi-large following and clout for their own benefit, taking advantage of my giving and supportive nature for businesses and friends. Looking back, I realized I got played. And with the amount of people that come in and out of my life, I miss some of the signs from time to time, this one being one of the more harmful ones. The life lessons never stop.

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Food is supposed to bring people together.

I am a 46 year old woman running a business that is nearly all consuming, currently the solo contributor in a single income household while raising two kids. In other words, I don’t have time for this shit. I have tried to get an honest explanation or some kind of admittance and was met with redirection and more slander. I graduated high-school back in ‘98, and even then, I didn’t experience the amount of vitriol and childish behavior I have seen the past few weeks.

As for the gossip I have heard about others - concerning people in the industry, their friends, or even vitriol between members about each other in the toxic group - that ends with me. I’m not interested in other people’s business. This desperate and disorganized flailing attempt to cover things up and avoid accountability in order to continue with their false narratives was never going to fly. Their hatred, jealousy and pettiness stays with me. None of them deserve the grace that they surely didn’t give me, but I’ll take the high road so I can sleep at night.

I’m also ready to go down the legal road. There’s enough defamation via slander and harassment against me and my business. If it gets worse, I have lawyers who are willing to help with cease and desists if needed.

I do believe my friendship with this person I knew nearly a decade was real though. I did truly care and support her. My assumption was she had growing issues with me, probably stemming from a competitive nature and jealousy, and when she expressed them to her friends with a victim mentality, the stories got more out of hand, more embellished, until it couldn’t be contained; real people and businesses are now threatened, all to hide the truth, because deep down she did really care what I think. Or needed to continue using me.

Food is supposed to bring people together. We should be talking about new ideas or hobbies, and not people around the dinner table with our friends and loved ones. And we should leave the table with our bellies full, our minds inspired, and our hearts filled with love.

Therapy is also a great option.

I wrote a bit about this last year but didn’t use this term because I didn’t know it existed. I noticed the words ‘third culture cuisine’ or ‘third culture kids’ or ‘third culture cooking’ floating around but dismissed it as just another trend, a newly invented term to give license rather than put a label on an existing concept or group. But after coming to terms with my own cooking and identity after reading numerous stories from chefs with smiliar experiences, it brought me peace to know I wasn’t alone in feeling like I was a part of two cultures, yet unwelcome in both.

My existential crisis began when I decided to make bacon cheeseburger potstickers for a pop-up years ago. I was called a sellout by a (white) friend, which started me down a spiral of self-doubt and shame. Was I doing my culture disrespect? At the same time I was also asking myself where I really belonged, a common question with second-generation immigrants.

The term second-generation immigrant is an oxymoron - we’re not technically immigrants if we were born here, but it’s the only term that ties us to our immigrant parents. It does this while simultaneously othering us. The term third culture kid doesn’t tie our identity to a birth country but rather the country that shaped our identity, so it’s a more accurate term.

Third culture cooking describes the unique way we apply the experience and knowledge of our cultures into cooking. It’s a relatively new term even though the term ‘third culture kids’ was coined in the 1950s.

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There are differences and similarities between Third Culture Cooking, Fusion Cuisine, Cultural Appropriation and Chaos Cooking.

Chaos cooking isn’t defined by who is doing it, but how it’s being done, whereas third culture is determined by both the who and how. The term fusion describes the trend from the 80s and 90s of combining different techniques and cultural foods without much regard for the culture, which sometimes (more times than not) leads into cultural appropriation.

Obviously, fusion had a bad connotation for decades. It was fiercely defended by non-native chefs taking from other cultures with the argument that authenticity is evolution. Which is true, but when everything has been centered on authenticity as a result of the backlash against Fusion chefs, it doesn’t allow Third Culture Kids a place in the food scene. It created rigid obstacles and impossible standards, with POC fighting hard to preserve what they felt was taken from them, even against fellow POC.

But recently, the term fusion cuisine has been getting a rebrand by POC claiming it, which overlaps with Third culture cooking and Chaos cooking.

Demand for authenticity is a way to keep POC in their place.

Being Chinese-American, I’ve been told that I’m not Chinese enough, especially with my food. My authenticity is questioned when I deviate from tradition, whatever tradition means. When it’s called out by non-Chinese people, I brush it aside because who are they to say what’s traditional or not? More times than not, I get these comments from people who claim to have more expertise on the subject of authenticity because they traveled to China once or twice, or have an Asian wife.

When I’m called out by fellow POC, it’s a gut punch. Sometimes it’s your garden variety crab mentality; only one Asian can succeed in Atlanta, with fellow Asian chefs using the lowest, easiest tactic to beat out competition. And Asians who don’t have any skin in the game call out other Asians to look more knowledgeable, a hero in protecting the culture.

What is authenticity, anyway? It’s being genuine. And why is my authenticity tied solely to ethnicity and not lived experiences as a Chinese-American? So if I can’t be genuine in sharing my lived experiences as a Chinese-American, and forced to be something I’m not, wouldn’t that mean I am checks notes not being authentic? The existential crisis starts at the realization that there doesn’t seem to be a place for people like us in the food industry.

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Being Chinese-American doesn’t mean we’re confined to Chinese-American Takeout.

Not that there’s anything wrong with takeout. But why should Chinese-American cuisine stop at sesame chicken and moo goo gai pan? Third Culture Kids shouldn’t be confined to cooking their parents’ foods. Chef Arnaldo Castillo of Tio Lucho’s, a Peruvian restaurant in Virginia Highlands recently shared this message on his Instagram.

I asked Chef Arnaldo if I could share an excerpt from his Instagram post because the sentiments he expressed were so relatable:

“In the last few months, changes I’ve gone through personally are spilling into the restaurant unintentionally. One of them has been about identity. If you asked me where I was from, I’d stutter; I’d hesitate to say Georgia because I wasn’t born here, and if I said Lima, I couldn’t tell you what neighborhood my family was from. I’d have this whole internal debate about whether I needed to respond with where I grew up or where I am originally. This internal conflict spilled from my childhood into my teenage years and into my adulthood. But as I get older and become comfortable with who I am, I’m becoming more and more confident in who I am as a person and as a cook. This thinking is spilling over into the restaurant, with a new mantra at the top of the menu: “rooted in Peru, shaped by the South.” I am Peruvian and American, and my menu and food are starting to reflect that, now, finally. It’s not fusion; or maybe it is, if that word helps describe our pollo a la brasa with collard greens and uchucuta salsa or that our Southern oysters don’t come with mignonette - we serve them with leche de Tigre.”

None of this matters as long as it’s good, right?

This highly dismissive conclusion has been said to me many times, and I’ve also read it in comments on social media and articles. You have to wonder who is saying this, though. People who have no skin in the game, chefs who have already ‘made it’, or people protecting their transactional network of chefs at the top for their own benefit. It may not matter to them, but it matters to us, or to Arnaldo who is (quote) ‘one “This isn’t Peruvian food” google review from crashing out’. Shouldn’t people educate themselves before incorrectly calling out chefs for appropriation, mislabling them, or putting them in the wrong category? Or do they just have to deal with the noise for the rest of their careers while treated like they are on a level playing field?

Anyway, I’ll just leave it at that.

One week, influencers were rallying together to reduce consumer spending and boycott ICE supporting corporations while focusing on supporting local business during a nationwide Blackout. The next week, they’re lining up for free bagels from a VC-backed franchise who set up shop 3 doors down from a locally o…

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The thing is, I don’t think most of the things I talk about are political. I remember a time when discussing politics ranged from mundane…

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Whenever my mom made us soy sauce chicken, she always snuck a few hard boiled eggs into the stock so we got to enjoy those as well. To make a larger batch, we’d just add more eggs into the stock after the chicken was taken out, since the stock could be reused a few more times, each batch gaining more flavor. I’ve eaten this before …

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“No offense, but Cantonese food is bland.”

I’ve heard people tell me in more or less words that Cantonese food is bland or boring in comparison to the bolder flavors of other Asian cuisines, or even other regional Chinese cuisines like Sichuan. I nod as they explain why, not in agreement but in understanding that bold seasoni…

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Food shouldn’t require a mental exercise before determining whether it slaps or not. Reaching for a second dumpling, craving the same noodle soup the next day, or getting another order to go are signs that your mouth wants something before your brain is able to process it using a specific set of criteria it’s developed to do nothing except ruin life’s simplest pleasures. These dishes reminded me of the visceral experience it is meant to be.

Some notes:

• It’s definitely not a ‘best of’ list, as that wasn’t my goal. They are just dishes that I enjoyed and left me with a good impression.

• There is absolutely no theme here (newest, trendiest, etc.)

• I was not hosted nor tipped off by any publicists.

• I paid with my own money.

• I didn’t announce I was going in hopes of getting special treatment.

Interesting stats though -

• 4 out of 19 are pop-ups

• 3 dishes are some kind of tartare

• 2 dishes are xiao long bao

• 2 dishes are some sort of cold chicken

• 5 dishes are seafood

I also made a google maps list for you to easily locate each restaurant. Here are my favorite dishes of 2025 in no particular order, and I hope you enjoy them as well.

1. Kitchen Master

Address: 3131 Lawrenceville-Suwanee Rd Ste B5, Suwanee, GA, 30024

Dish: Berkshire Pork Xiao Long Baos

Price: $12/6

My eldest child and I went on quite a few self-led dumpling tours this year. As soon as she could eat solids, she had enjoyed many dumplings (my own, numerous restaurants, and even three Din Tai Fungs the past year). I trust this palate that I have nurtured for years almost more than I trust my own palate. When my kid reaches for a second dumpling without prodding, that’s enough for me, as there’s no reason for her to politely eat what I offer as I’m required *as a parent* to provide nourishment either way. I have created a monster (I kid).

Does we detect a hint of smokiness? My kid swears it did, compared to the other XLBs we had that day, which sets it apart from the rest in a good way. The dumpling skins were the thinnest ones I’ve seen in ATL, comparable to DTFs. Very soupy too. Price point reflects skill, flavor and quality.

2. Chubby Cattle Shabu

Address: 2180 Pleasant Hill Rd SUITE B20, Duluth, GA 30096

Dish: Wagyu Tartare

Price: $45 AYCE price provides choice of specialty item (one of which being tartare)

Unfortunately, you can’t order the tartare without committing to an AYCE package here, the cheapest being a non-member fee of $45. Considering what I pay at some places, $45 is worth it for unlimited wagyu shabu shabu, wagyu roast bone marrow, wagyu curry brisket, and wagyu tartare, which comes heavily seasoned with truffle and served with *checks notes* generic tortilla chips? The plating reminds me of the days I enjoyed Cantonese crispy whole chicken at NY Chinatown banquets, served with a side of Pringles. Anyway, the off-brand Tostitos make this a little more special and nostalgic.

3. Laghman Express

Address: 3070 Windward Plaza X1, Alpharetta, GA 30005

Dish: Central Asian Manty

Price: $18.99

The photo doesn’t do the manty justice, as each one is almost as big as my hand, so don’t be shocked at the $18.99 price tag. They come either steamed or fried, but I prefer steamed as they’re juicier. The filling is a mixture of finely chopped lamb and onions, and served with a refreshing yogurt dipping sauce to cut the gameyness. Our family enjoyed these so much we ordered another manty to go…then ate it a few hours later.

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4. Lao Wei Dao

Address: 3875 Venture Dr NW, Ste A7, Duluth, GA 30096

Dish: Chilled Chicken

Price: $8.00

I never got a photo of this chilled chicken, it was something my kid asked me to order when I was researching for Yum Cha food tour. We couldn’t stop eating it though. The chicken is gently poached then sliced, coated in a sauce with the perfect balance of numbing, spicy, salty, sweet. While it’s named Chilled Chicken at Lao Wei Dao, I believe the more common name is mouth-watering chicken, or 口水鸡 (Kou Shui Ji).

5. Beksa Lala (pop-up)

Address: Pop-ups (regularly at Tio Luchos and Seventh House)

Dish: Paczek Bonbon stuffed with dill creme fraiche and topped with smoked mackerel

Price: one of the dishes from her tasting menu this past summer. Follow her account for seasonal menu items.

Description pulled from my Beksa Lala post: As someone who only enjoys the occasional Bavarian cream filled doughnut because I’m not a fan of many sweets, I really enjoyed this savory paczek bonbon, filled with dill creme fraiche and topped with smoked mackerel. I wish they were sold by the half dozen, although that would be dangerous. The doughnut is also light and airy, balancing the rich creaminess of the filling.

6. Crazy Skewers

Address: 6035 Peachtree Rd, Unit A118, Atlanta, GA 30360

Dish: Potato Noodles

Price: $12.99

I first tried potato noodles at the Siblings Potato Noodles food stall (located inside New World Food Court in Flushing Queens, but has since closed) years ago and have been chasing that high ever since. I went out looking for potato noodles in Atlanta and this one from Crazy Skewers came close to fulfilling that craving. I don’t know why these particular potato noodles are clear while the ones I remember are white, but both are similar in their slippery, chewy, and bouncy textures. Broth is incredibly flavorful, and just spicy enough without being overpowering although it will clear your sinuses. My youngest ate half my bowl during our last visit, then asked if we could go back the next day.

7. Wimal Authentic Thai Food

Address: 2960 Shallowford Road, Suite 112, Marietta, GA 30066

Dish: Beef Boat Noodles

Price: $23.00

This is a bit pricier than the other boat noodles around town but I’ll suck it up because I get to enjoy boat noodles (and decent ones) in East Cobb. The broth is rich and flavorful, and comes with meatballs, sliced or braised beef, Chinese broccoli, beansprouts, and Thai culantro. The sliced beef is so tender as if it’s placed in right when the broth is bubbling then immediately taken off the stove so it doesn’t seize up. Apparently this comes in varying spice levels but I’ve always gotten it without spice, then use the spicy condiments on the table.

8. Mr. Bento

Address: 6000 Medlock Bridge Pkwy Ste E400, Johns Creek, GA 30022

Dish: Pork Xiao Long Baos

Price: $10 for 6

I was excited to find out that the owners of Xiao’s Way came out of retirement to make their famous dumplings at Mr. Bento, a fast causal Japanese establishment in John’s Creek. While the pork potstickers and hargow were also good, the xiao long baos stood out from nearly all other ones (right up there with Kitchen Master). The skins are delicate, and the filling is flavorful and soupy, coating your mouth with a collagen rich broth after every bite.

9. Hong Kong Bakery and Dim Sum

Address: Address: 6000 Medlock Bridge Pkwy Ste E400, Johns Creek, GA 30022

Dish: Egg Tarts

Price: $2.50

The iconic HK Bakery’s closing in Buford Highway’s Asian Square plaza was a sad moment for most of us, but luckily they opened a bigger location in Duluth next to the Canton House Event Hall. While their new dim sum items fill a void, the egg tarts go above and beyond, and I have to say are even better here than the previous location. The custard is eggy in flavor (usually they’re tasteless and anemic looking in most places), and the pastry is flaky rather than dense.

10. Salty Smiles (Pop-Up)

Address: N/A

Dish: The entire menu

Price: N/A

I think I went to Salty Smile’s pop up every week he was cooking at Minhwa Spirits. While he’s retired for now, if he ever decides to come out of retirement, jump on the opportunity to try his unapologetically spicy foods. My kids ordered his Sticky rice pileup with moo ping 3 times in one sitting. Also enjoyed the steamed egg curry custard, papaya salad, tom yum noodles and water spinach. I just realized I didn’t come every week because I missed the Hat Yai Chicken and will regret it forever.

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11. Edo Japanese Cuisine

Address: 2500 North Point Ct, Alpharetta, GA 30022

Dish: Bluefin Tuna and Sea Urchin Tartare

Price: $24.80

My whole experience at Edo back in the summer was very enjoyable, and as long as the fish is fresh I don’t have many preferences for sushi other than proximity to my house. So what I’m saying is the bluefin and sea urchin tartare stands out, as it’s a bunch of creamy, briny things I like, but at $24.80, order it if you’re celebrating something special, or because yolo. Then check out their store which is connected to the restaurant, selling china and tea sets.

12. Red Lantern Chinese Cuisine

Address: 1630 PLEASANT HILL RD STE A2, DULUTH, GA 30096

Dish: Shrimp with Salted Egg Yolk

Price: $19.95

I didn’t like salted egg yolk for the longest time, as I thought the flavor was strange and texture was too gritty (the Cantonese description uses ‘sandy’ to describe its texture) but grew to appreciate and even enjoy the richness it offers delicate tasting proteins like shrimp. The shrimp is lightly fried, then coated in a salted egg yolk sauce that clings to the cracks and crevices of the batter. Red Lantern also does a version with short ribs if you want to say to hell with balance, make it even richer.

13. Springfield BBQ (pop-up)

Address: Roswell Farmers Market, 38 Hill St, Roswell, GA 30075 (seasonal market ended in October)

Dish: Brisket Egg and Cheese Breakfast Sandwich

Price: N/A

Springfield BBQ offers a brisket egg and cheese sandwich at Roswell Farmers Market on weekend mornings, although the market season closed, be on the lookout for him next season. Or, visit him at venues such as Proper Hop Taphouse or Variant Brewing. I ate this so fast I almost forgot to snap a pic. It’s such a solid, simple sandwich with juicy and tender brisket, fluffy eggs and melted cheese holding it all together.

14. Urban Hai

Address: 77 12th St NE Ste 7, Atlanta, GA 30309

Dish: Lime Shredded Chicken

Price: $12.00

I’ve never had a dish like this in ATL, or in any Chinese restaurant and most of my excitement was because of that. This is in the appetizer section of the menu, and served cold, so it was pretty refreshing with its sharp, citrusy bite and minced birdseye peppers giving it a slight kick. My dining companion wasn’t crazy about the cartilage but that was something I actually enjoyed, so I pretty much ate the majority of this myself. And unlike American chicken salads adding richness to white meat with mayo, the bright and zesty dressing balanced out the fattier, richer tasting dark meat here.

15. Dumpling Garden

Address: 2731 Sandy Plains Road, Marietta, GA 30066

Dish: Chicken Wings

Price: $11.95 for 5 (but its really 10 since they don’t cut them)

Nothing slaps more than Chinese restsaurant chicken wings. My youngest kid always gets an order of wings no matter where she goes, and while a part of me is like ‘don’t you want to try something new?’ the other part of me thinks ‘I get to try their wings now too’. These aren’t battered, just simply marinated, fried, and sooo juicy. Growing up, a lot of us Chinese kids would beg for KFC, our moms would go “we have chicken at home” and whip up a batch just like these.

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16. Big Boss

Address: 77 12th St NE Ste 7, Atlanta, GA 30309

Dish: Salt and Pepper Shrimp

Price: N/A

Although the salt and pepper shrimp doesn’t seem to be on the menu anymore, I still wanted to keep them on my list because Big Boss reminded me of my love of American Chinese food, and they do such a good job with it. Everything is nostalgic here. Each dish had enough ‘wok hay’ iykyk. And they have free parking in the garage behind the building, a rarity in the city.

17. The Sparrow

Address: 950 W. Peachtree Street NW, #220, Atlanta, GA 30309

Dish: Bamboo Fish

Price: $12.00

Every since having Bamboo fish (aka Dry Fried Fish) at the OG Tasty China off Franklin Rd. in Marietta I’ve been chasing this dish in every Sichuan restaurant in Atlanta. The Sparrow does a nice job with it, called Szechuan Cooked Fish here, but it’s in an appetizer portion so leaves me wanting more. I ordered this during their happy hour between 3-6pm where it was half off, so check if they still offer this special.

18. Dhaba BBQ (pop-up)

Address: N/A

Dish: Lemon Pepper Chilean Sea Bass

Price: N/A

I went to a private dinner pop-up that Jay of Dhaba BBQ cooked at Minhwa Spirits back in February and while everything I ate was delicious, my mouth still waters thinking about the lemon pepper Chilean sea bass. We can conclude that lemon pepper accentuates anything at this point, and such a great idea using it for this buttery and flaky white fish. I hope he decides to serve this again at one of his next pop-ups.

19. Tipsy Thaiger

Address: 605 Atlanta St, Roswell, GA 30075

Dish: Northern Laab Beef Tartare

Price: $21.00

Laab and beef tartare are a couple of my go-to items on any menu so combine these two concepts and I need to try it. ‘I love this’ were the first words I uttered after taking a bite and I never say I love anything. I need more northern laab spices (prik laab?) in my life. The tartare was silky in texture thanks to the sauce and egg yolk, and a squeeze of lime juice and fresh herbs adds brightness to balance the richness of the beef. The other dishes we tried were also so amazing they go into their own substack post later, so stay tuned. I’m glad Roswell has this gem.

And no, I am not sponsored to say any of this.

A few weeks ago I shared my avocado rose on Instagram and didn’t realize it would get so many oohs and ahhs. I guess I inadvertently flexed these skills the way chefs flex their chive cutting skills (don’t click the link if your anxiety outweighs your OCD).

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It’s been one year since starting this Substack. Thank you to everyone who subscribed (paid or free), I can’t believe people even want to read this sometimes.

As most of you know, I wanted to quit the pop-up scene a year ago, but kept one foot in the door. I currently have 5 side gigs to avoid get…

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All that said, I realize the irony in that I make a lot of these lists too. It’s how I got into the A…

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There are many things I can speak passionately about, but who knew the topic was government cheese today.

Let me start in the beginning. When my dad worked at Kodak, the film company in Rochester, NY back in the 70s-80s, he befriended the janitor. They would end up talking at my dad’s cubicle where he worked as a CAD drafter, every day after everyone went home. *Years later, my mom would tell me how he and the janitor became friends. My dad, being new transplant from NYC, didn’t know anyone, nor were people that friendly at work. Kodak had recently welcomed Asians to be employed there. And that might have been progressive, but Kodak still maintained a strict rule against hiring WOPs (the derogatory term for Italians, their words, not mine), which they literally wrote on the job applications, ‘No WOPs Allowed’. So, being that my dad was sort of an outcast, and the janitor was an outcast simply because he was the janitor, they found common ground.* Eventually, the janitor invited my parents to dinner at he and his wife’s home, and I assume this ritual started before I was born. As soon as I was old enough to be self-aware (maybe 5?) I knew them as the elderly white couple who cooked for us - and I say ‘elderly’ in the eyes of a child, but who knows, they were probably the age I am now.

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I looked forward to visiting their house on Sunday nights. Looking back, it couldn’t have been more than a 1k foot ranch. When you walked in, you could smell cinnamon and other warm spices. Our house didn’t smell like anything other than the occasional lingering scent of the previous night’s stir-fry. I’m trying (very badly) to concoct an image of the Sleepytime Bear environment, but if they got into a car accident with the set of ‘That 70’s Show’. Picture the scene below, but replace the rug with a large tri-colored orange/beige/brown braided oval one.

*This is really creepy, but my mom just texted me as I’m writing this, asking me for my knowledge on cheeses. She’s at costco, deciding between trying triple cream brie or light Laughing Cow cheese. My, what a long way we’ve come since gov’t. cheese. And I know they’d enjoy the brie more than the Laughing Cow.*

Back to my story on the Sleepytime couple.

They’d cook us dishes we’d never had before, or at least, I never had before. The most memorable one was meatloaf with a ketchup glaze. It was like the American version of my mom’s steamed pork loaf.

While our meatloaf was made with finely chopped pork, bespeckled with minced shiitake mushrooms and lap cheong, and topped with either salted fish and/or shrimp paste to add that pungent and funky profile, theirs was a pleasant contrast made with beef and minced onions, and had sweet and savory flavors. My uneducated child palate never appreciated the funky flavors from our home cooking.

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Anyway, the meatloaf was always served with mashed potatoes, and we could never understand why their mashed potatoes were superior to ours when we made it at home. My mom used chicken stock instead of milk for ours - she said it added more flavor without the fat, and that’s where she went wrong. We found out the secret was an entire stick of butter, along with milk (although, looking back, I bet it was heavy cream, or at least half-n-half). Their mashed potatoes were so creamy, they were able to use a handheld mixer to whip the potatoes.

I’m getting to the government cheese. Let me finish my story.

After dinner, there was always dessert. Homemade apple pie (because, upstate NY), with a lattice crust, topped with a scoop of Wegman’s vanilla ice cream. It could’ve also been Byrne Dairy ice cream, or whatever was cheaper at the time. Apple pie was always cloyingly sweet to us but enjoyable and balanced with the creaminess of the ice cream. At the end of dinner, we’d all sit around and talk, the couple would ask me about school, my interests, if I liked any boys yet (while my mom would exclaim “she’s too young don’t ask her that!”). In immigrant Chinese households, we typically didn’t have these sorts of conversations around the dinner table. Love and concern was shown through food, not words.

Now came the government cheese. The 5 lb. block, encased in a cardboard box, would come out of the bulky, retro refrigerator (the ones with that metal lever). They’d ask if anyone wanted a slice of cheese. I don’t know about Southerners, but we Northerners would eat apple pie with a slice of cheese on the side. I’ve never looked this up, and always assumed it was an Upstate NY thing. My parents would ritualistically shake their heads and decline, but eventually forfeit the battle to just one thin slice. I’d eagerly accept every time.

My parents’ idea of a thin slice was as thin as a sheet of paper, whereas the couple’s idea of thin was an inch thick. They used one of those handheld wire cheese slicers, and slice us all a piece from the seemingly never-ending block. It tasted like a cross between velveeta and hard cheddar to me. It didn’t crumble like a hard cheddar, giving way to suspicion, hey, something’s off here (delicious, but off). It would eventually sit in our stomachs like an undigestible rock, the way nature intended. But delicious, nonetheless.

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Over the years, the ritual offering of cheese after dinner became borderline desperate, with the couple pleading - please, take this cheese, it never ends, they just keep giving us cheese, we’re desperate to give it away, it keeps multiplying in our fridge. I’m being dramatic, but jokes about the cheese each night were funny to me. One time, my mom begrudgingly agreed to take the block (it was probably half the size it originally was until the couple needed to rid themselves of it) and we (I) got to enjoy it at home for a good few months. With my mom on the sidelines commenting that I would get fat (fat-shaming with every bite was just something you grew accostomed to as a child of immigrants).

That cheese became such a burden on the adults of my life. Will they offer the cheese this Sunday night? Will they bring us cheese when they come to our house for dinner? Do we throw out the cheese if we don’t want it? To people like us, you never throw food out, even if its gov’t. cheese. We asked others to carry the load, but nobody was interested. And through a child’s eyes, while this looked to be a problem of overabundance, I never realized until years later when I became an adult, that government cheese was created to solve a problem of utilizing a surplus by the dairy farmers, to create a more stable and solid form by processed cheese, butter and powdered milk, offloaded to people on welfare, the elderly, food banks, or others in need. But the solution to solve one surplus created another surplus, until our fridges looked similar to the Missouri caves the government was desperately and frantically forklifting the cheese into. In the government’s case, out of sight, out of mind. We had to look at our cheese every time we opened the fridge door. But upon learning such caves exist, I know where I’ll hole up with some crackers when the zombie apocolypse hits. Lactose intolerance be damned, I’ll die not by zombies but by my own hand, clutching a block of cheeese.

Growing up, I thought everyone knew what government cheese was. But most people fell into two groups - the groups who didn’t know what it was at all (“you mean, Velveeta?” - also includes people who’ve never touched Spam or Vienna sausages) or the ones who looked down on it, since they assumed anyone who took the cheese were lazy and wanted handouts. It opened me up to a whole world of people who had utter disdain and contempt of others, their divisiveness bred from pride and/or privilege - “Our family would never accept gov’t cheese no matter how hard times get” mentality, as if all life experience was universal, lacking nuance, no range of physical/mental disabilities, even though most of us were one paycheck away from receiving the inevitable solid orange block of cheese product, the difference being whether to go with or without food before getting back on our feet.

In pop-culture, references to gov’t. cheese are in movies, shows, and music. For example, in Kendrick Lamar’s Money Trees - ‘What else is a thug to do when you eatin' cheese from the government?’ In Jay Z’s F.U.T.W he says, "After that government cheese, we eating steak.” Celebrities, they’re just like (some of) us.

Why was I thinking about this today, and what led me to write nearly 10,000 words on it? I dug deep on trying to remember where my love of processed cheese came from and why I am so protective of recipes that use processed cheese. It forever reminds me of where I came from, how I was brought up, friending people from various socio-economic statuses without a second thought, not being interested in keeping up with the Joneses, and how I’ll always consider myself as a ‘cook’ and not a ‘chef’. You’ll never see me trying to ‘elevate’ with a slice of real (and unmeltable) cheese. I even put it on my Cantonese salt and pepper fried chicken sandwiches. “But Candy, you know it’s not real cheese, right? It’s just oil and -” Listen, I know there’s a lot of ways to thinly veil your pretentiousness while explaining why you think you’re better than me. Let me eat my cheese product in peace.

And I guess I’ll end this with a musical coda for once. I was going to use Money Trees since I mentioned it up above, but this one fits too:

Enjoy whatever cheese you’re eating this weekend.

Being that the pop-up community is a tight knit one, I knew of Beksa Lala (“crybaby” in Polish) back when she was at Punk Foodie at Ponce over a year ago, and at Burle’s Bar off the beltline last summer. That doesn’t mean she was new by any means - with experience working in kitchens in Jacksonville and Atlanta, Basia Piechoczek was prompted to start he…

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I’ve been meaning to try Crazy Skewers for some time, but there are dozens of new and exciting Asian restaurants in ATL so it didn’t end up on the top of the queue until I needed my fix for potato noodles, and this restaurant was the only place I knew who offered it.

Crazy Skewers is located in the H-Mart plaza in Doraville, by Meet Fresh and Tea Top. It…

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General update on life.

It’s the last week of summer break before the kids go back to school on Monday. I’ll never get used to this schedule - back in NY we started school after Labor Day weekend. We put some miles on our new car and used some miles for flying - Asheville NC, NYC, Florida, back to Upstate NY, then Chicago. And everywhe…

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I lost a friend after Hurricane Helene happened. Not in the hurricane, but by ending a friendship due to their apathetic and somewhat cruel reaction to the hurricane. Although the friendship was doomed for multiple reasons, that was the nail in the coffin. …

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Hong Kong Bakery and Dim Sum in Duluth recently opened in a strip mall two doors down from the also fairly new Canton House Event Hall. The original HK Bakery in Doraville’s Asian Square plaza was an iconic landmark in the community, with hundreds fondly reminiscing of their fluffy baos and flaky egg custard tarts since they announced their closure. Aft…

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