Not every grower needs an advanced IPM program.

Some of you are running a licensed room with a rep on speed dial and a spray rotation on the wall. Some of you have six plants in a tent, a job, and about forty dollars of margin before this grow stops being fun.

This one is for both of you, because the biology doesn’t care which one you are.

What follows is ten fixes that use things you already own or can buy for a few dollars. Sand. Pantyhose. Popsicle sticks. Baking soda. None of it is as good as a labeled product used correctly, and we are not going to pretend otherwise.

But a grower doing something beats a grower waiting until it’s finally “bad enough.”

Barriers: Stop Them Moving

The cheapest IPM there is. You are not killing anything here. You are just making it impossible for the bad guys to get from where they are to where they want to be.

1. A quarter inch of sand on top of your media.

Fungus gnats need to land on wet media to lay. The larvae already down there need to crawl back out to breed. Put a quarter inch of cigarette sand across the top of the pot and neither one happens.

Zac’s pick is the white cigarette sand sold for smoking receptacles and available at most hardward stores for cheap.

Reminder: this is a pest barrier, not a spore barrier.

Insects are microns. Spores are nanometers. Think of it like a screen door — great against mosquitoes, useless against smoke.

2. Pantyhose around the grow bag.

Root aphids are a containment problem before they are a killing problem.

Stretch a pair of pantyhose around a one-gallon pot or fabric bag and tie it off. It’s porous enough to irrigate through and breathe through, so you won’t choke the root zone. It is not porous enough for a root aphid to walk through.

That does two jobs at once. It keeps the infestation on the plant that already has it, and it keeps your next crop clean. Prophylactic on the front end, quarantine on the back end.

3. Sticky cards and DE (but use them the way they’re meant to be used).

Everybody buys yellow sticky cards. Almost nobody uses them right.

Sticky cards have a printed grid on them for a reason: they are monitors first and pesticides second.

The grid is there so you can count. When you can no longer keep track of how many gnats are on the card, the card has stopped telling you anything and it’s time to replace it.

Diatomaceous earth works the same way: passive and immobile. It only works on the pest that happens to walk into it.

Passive tools tell you what’s happening. They don’t end it. Pair them with something mobile.

4. Filter media on your intake.

You can buy HEPA-grade filter material by the roll or the sheet. Cut it to your intake and tape it in.

Air flow is the single biggest uncontrolled vector into a tent, and every spore that doesn’t get in is a spore you don’t have to spray.

Cheapest insurance policy in this article.

Sprays: Rotation, Rotation, Rotation

Here is the part where most home growers go wrong: They find one thing that works, they spray it every week forever, and they wonder why it stops working. The key is to rotate, specifically to rotate acidic and alkaline treatments for the greatest coverage.

5. Citric acid (the acidic half)

Get 99% food-grade citric acid. Fifty grams into a gallon of water makes your concentrate. From there, Zac’s rate is 5-15 mL of concentrate (your mix, not the straight acid) per gallon of spray, depending on how bad it is.

(Somebody is going to ask about lemon juice. It’s roughly 30% citric acid plus a lot of other compounds, and none of us know what those compounds do to trichomes. In theory it works. If you try it, tell us.)

6. Baking soda (the alkaline half)

Now the actual point, which is not either bottle; It’s the swing.

Powdery mildew needs a stable leaf surface to germinate on. Sporangia land, the conditions hold, mycelium establishes. Alternate an acidic spray one week and an alkaline spray the next and the surface never stays the same long enough for any of that to finish.

On the commercial side this is what PerCarb and MilkStop are doing for you. At home, baking soda is the approximation. Zac has seen growers use plain milk for the same reason because it’s alkaline, and it works decently well.

7. Hydrogen peroxide

Peroxide is genuinely useful for room sanitation, cleaning up water in tanks and res, and even as a foliar, preventatively or curatively.

In a product like ZeroTol, the peroxide is the workhorse. It’s what oxidizes.

The peroxyacetic acid is what keeps the peroxide stable long enough to finish the job. Straight hydrogen peroxide has no PAA in it. Pour some in a glass and watch it fizz: that’s it breaking down in front of you.

Put simply: you can get a similar effect to products like ZeroTol with drugstore peroxide, but the stopwatch runs a lot faster.

Mix it and spray it now. Don’t mix a batch on Sunday for Wednesday.

8. Micronized sulfur.

Everything else in this section knocks something down and then breaks down itself. Sulfur stays.

That’s the entire reason to keep it on the shelf. When the environment is just not working — humidity you can’t get under control, airflow you can’t fix this week, PM that keeps coming back no matter how clean your rotation is — sulfur gives you prolonged efficacy while you go solve the real problem.

It’s also the closest thing to a silver bullet for russet mites. Not because it wipes them out on contact, but because it holds them under constant pressure and takes away the environment they need to thrive. Same logic as the popsicle stick, different pest.

Treat it as a finisher, not an everyday spray. In a weekly rotation, it sits at the end of the week, after the maintenance work is already done.

One warning, and this one matters. Sulfur and oils do not play nice. Many growers spray a neem-derived azadirachtin product, follow it up with sulfur, and get a negative interaction for their trouble. It comes down to how your AD product was extracted. AzaGuard’s inert package is yucca and polysorbate (the stuff in ice cream) with no ethanol or petroleum in it, so it won’t fight with sulfur. Most oil-based products will.

Read the label before you stack it on top of anything, especially sulfur.

Environment: The Fixes That Cost Nothing

An infection needs three things: a threat, a susceptible host, and a conducive environment. You usually can’t do much about the first two on short notice. But environments are in your control.

9. Popsicle sticks in your colas.

This is the best trick in this article and it costs about four dollars at a hobby store.

Botrytis is anaerobic. It grows from the inside of a dense cola out, which is exactly why it goes undetected until you’ve already lost the bud. A big beautiful full cola in a humid fall is a purpose-built botrytis incubator.

So open it up.

Take a wooden popsicle stick (the tongue-depressor kind) and break it at a 45º angle without snapping it clean through. Pull the cola open, and wedge the 45º section in against the main stem so it holds the bud open.

Now oxygen gets in there.

You have not killed anything. You have removed the conducive environment leg of the triangle, and you’ve desiccated the conditions botrytis needs to propagate. On susceptible varieties, do this before you see a problem (by the time you see it, the inside of that cola is already gone).

It pairs with a spray, too. If you’re going in with a nonionic disinfestant and hydrogen peroxide or ZeroTol, the stick is what lets you actually soak into the stem and sterilize the whole floret instead of glazing the outside of it.

Zac’s honest note: at commercial volume this is next to impossible. Ten thousand colas is ten thousand sticks. But on your six susceptible plants, or on the twenty in the greenhouse you know always go first, it works every time.

10. Move the air before you buy anything.

Environment plays a bigger role in powdery mildew than most growers want to accept.

Stagnant air holds moisture against leaf surfaces. Moisture on a leaf surface is how spores germinate. If your intake and exhaust are actually functioning, you’ve already taken a leg out from under half the pathogens on this list.

You don’t need a bigger spray budget. You need a fan pointed at the problem.

Two Common Tools We’re Not Recommending

Tobacco steep Insecticide

Take a handful of loose tobacco, steep it like sun tea, strain it, spray it. It is a legitimately effective insecticide and growers have used it for a hundred years.

It is also a tobacco mosaic virus risk you are voluntarily introducing to your room, and a photo you do not want circulating of yourself spraying tobacco on cannabis.

Alkaline drinking water to combat acidic threats

This one gets passed around a lot and Ben tried it himself as a first-time grower. Got PM, learned that an alkaline environment is not conducive to PM, so he bought the 9+ pH bottled water, sprayed the whole plant daily, and mostly just added moisture to a room that already had a moisture problem.

Zac’s read: once it dries, the alkalinity is gone. The bicarbonate content isn’t enough to leave a residual on plant tissue. You need something that raises the pH of that leaf surface and keeps it there, which is the entire reason the baking soda rotation in #6 works and this doesn’t.

None of this replaces a real program. Buy the labeled product when you can afford it, read the label, and use it the way the label says.

But the growers who lose crops are almost never the ones who used the wrong tool.

They’re the ones who waited.

Put sand on the pots. Break a popsicle stick. Point a fan at it. Then go buy the good stuff when you can afford to put advanced tools in the lineup.

Not legal or regulatory advice. Some of these approaches are not labeled for use on cannabis in every jurisdiction. Check your own state’s rules and your compliance team before applying anything in a licensed facility. This is by no means an exhaustive list.

Your wash water keeps a record of everything you did in flower.

Bugs and seeds float to the top. Sprayed oils smear across the surface. Bits of trellis, net, and plastic stake all show up.

We talk to a lot of hash makers — on both sides of the aisle, off-market and on-market, all of them highly qualified people who know their way around resin and how to g…

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Not all tissue culture is the same. But it gets sold like it is.

Walk any show floor and you’ll hear TC thrown around like it all means one thing: Clean stock. Disease-free. Genetic reset. A fresh start for your favorite cut.

Here’s the problem.

Almost all of those promises belong to one specific kind of tissue culture: meristem culture. Most of what’s actually sold as “TC” isn’t that.

Think of it like squares and rectangles. Meristem culture is a square. Tissue culture is the rectangle. Every square is a rectangle, but not every rectangle is a square, and the industry has gotten very good at selling you the rectangle using the square as the model. You hear meristem’s benefits, you picture a clean reset, and you buy something that may not deliver one.

So before you wire money to a lab — or talk yourself out of TC because it sounds like a PhD project — it’s worth knowing what the word actually means, and where the real work happens. Because the lab is only half the equation. What you do before you ship a cut, and what you do when the plant comes back, makes or breaks the rest.

We got into all of it with Jesse Leach, founder of MTHRSHP Labs, who’s spent enough time in tissue culture, DNA, and biotech to call these differences in his sleep. Whether you’re running six plants in a tent or 10,000 in a greenhouse, this one’s for you.

Meristem vs. node: the difference you’re paying for

In practice, two very different things wear the same “TC” label:

1. Meristem culture

2. Node culture

A meristem is the newest, smallest point of growth at the very tip of a shoot, so new that pathogens haven’t had a chance to set up shop. As Jesse puts it, at the tip “there’s no vascular system or tissue or established cells“ for anything to live in. That’s the whole trick: you’re not cleaning the plant as much as you’re harvesting the one part of it that was yet-to-be dirty.

It works because of totipotency. In Jesse’s words, “a single cell has the capacity to build an entire plant“; all the information, all the capability, in one cell. Grow that out and you’ve rebuilt the plant from scratch, minus everything that was riding along.

That’s why meristem can genuinely reset a cut. As Jesse describes the payoff: “the biggest benefit is getting rid of everything and reinstalling the software.”

In plain English: meristem wipes the drive and reinstalls a clean copy.

Node culture is a different animal. You take a chunk of established tissue (aka a node) and surface-decontaminate it. Note the word: decontaminate, not sterilize. “If we fully sterilize that with bleach,” Jesse says, “it’d be dead.” So you clean the outside and hope you penetrated far enough, but the tissue is already established, or as Jesse put it, still “running on that old software.” Endophytes living inside the tissue ride right along.

Surface-clean is not the same as clean.

And node culture carries a quieter risk: it can walk a problem straight into your lab. “More often than not, I see problems with node culture,” Jesse says. “It’ll just start growing, but inside, something else starts growing. You might not see it for months, and then a leaf touches the side of the vessel and it starts growing mold.” From there, “you can rapidly spread it to everything else if you’re not careful.”

So why run node culture at all? Because it’s the right tool for a different job.

Node culture is faster. You’re not starting at the cellular level, so cultures take off quicker. And it can save a cut when there’s barely any living tissue left. Drop a chunk that small into a clone cube and you’ll likely lose it; in TC media you can “chop a stalk into 100 little pieces” and root what a cube never could.

The honest version: node culture is a propagation tool. Meristem is a cleanup tool. Both are “tissue culture.” Only one reinstalls the software.

One more thing worth saying out loud: meristem is also just harder. Pulling a clean meristem is a different skill level entirely, which brings us to the next question every grower should be asking.

What actually separates a good TC lab from a garage-op?

It’s not the building.

Jesse cuts clean cultures in the middle of outdoor trade-show events with no negative-pressure room, no lab coat theater. “It’s technique, man.” And the old myth that you need a million-dollar cleanroom and a team of PhDs to even start? Gone. Starter kits run a few thousand dollars now, and turnkey kits are increasingly available off the shelf. The barrier is no longer the gear. It’s the four things driving it:

1. Knowledge. Who’s actually doing the cutting, and how good is their hands? A meristem dissection done sloppily smears contamination around the sample. Done right, it isolates the one part of the plant pathogens can’t reach.

2. Process. What are their intake and handling protocols, start to finish? A good lab treats every incoming sample like it could be carrying something. Because it might. (This is the part we get hands-on with below, and it’s the part you can actually control on your end.)

3. Substrate and media formulation. This is the quiet one, and it’s where a lot of the real edge hides. Jesse formulates his media to slow contaminant growth rather than hide it, so a problem still shows up, but slowly enough to catch and cut away. “It’ll slow the growth dramatically,” he says. “So if I identify something, we can pull all the other tissue out into a fresh plate, completely fine.” Pair that with low-hormone acclimation media that keeps a young plant from “worming out” and protects the fidelity of the genetics, and the formula is doing as much work as the technician.

4. Redundancies and failsafes. Ask your lab happens if the first batch dies, because sometimes it’s your team that kills it. A serious lab keeps backups: a vault, holdover stock, a copy kept alive after they ship you yours. Jesse keeps material in stock through the handoff “to make sure the transition is smooth… so we don’t have to start all over.“ Ask whether you can keep a copy in storage, too.

Gen 0, Gen 1, Gen 2 — the map nobody hands you

The generation labels get tossed around as marketing. They actually mean something specific, and knowing the differences keeps you from getting misled by marketing and sales.

Gen 0 is a plant grown from a cell, straight out of meristem. The true reset. Within Gen 0 you’ll hear about subcultures — Gen 0 Sub 1, Sub 2 — each one a round of multiplying that cell line in culture.

Gen 1 is a cutting taken from a rooted Gen 0 plant. A clone. Your first “normal” plant.

Gen 2 is a cutting from a Gen 1. A clone of a clone.

Here’s the part that trips people up: don’t flower a Gen 0.

A Gen 0 isn’t a finished plant yet. It has spent its whole short life “absorbing what’s in the media and learning how to photosynthesize again,” as Jesse puts it. The act of taking a clone off it to make that first Gen 1 is what resets the endogenous hormones and rebalances the plant. So Gen 0 is your master copy. You don’t run the master copy. You make working copies and run those.

“I’ll always recommend Gen 0s for mother stock,” Jesse says. “They’re clean as a whistle. Grow those out, clone them, and you’ll be much more successful.”

Skip that step and the horror stories write themselves. Jesse has watched growers fall in love with how Gen 0s look and go all in: “‘Man, these look awesome, I’m gonna fill my entire facility’ — and they get whole rooms of Gen 0s, and they herm out, or they don’t smell.“ A lot of that is mutation that shows up when the reset wasn’t handled right.

And no, you can’t just multiply in culture forever to dodge the cost. In a lot of programs, health tanks by the third subculture, one reason a clean Gen 0 reset matters in the first place.

When the testing actually happens

Most growers assume the lab tests their dirty plant on the way in, cleans it, and tests again. Mostly wrong on the front end.

In most cases, testing happens on the way out of TC, not the way in unless you specifically ask for intake testing.

And here’s the line to tattoo somewhere: meristem is not an automatic clean bill of health. “You don’t want to assume that because it’s from meristem it’s going to be clean,” Jesse says. “It’s an effective tool for that, but…“ some genetics still test hot coming out. It’s genotype-specific.

So how does a careful lab cover that gap? Isolation and tracking. Each meristem gets pulled into its own vessel, barcoded, and tracked individually, then verified before anything ships. Jesse has watched a single batch split, but because every shoot is isolated, one hot result doesn’t sink the whole run. (In culture they’re tiny and physically separated anyway — “a grain of sand,” as he describes them, “not interacting with each other.“)

Put simply: clean stock is a result the lab verifies on the way out, one isolated shoot at a time.

Snip to production: the real timeline

Let’s trace the whole thing once, start to finish:

1. Treat the mother plant.

2. Take and submit your snips.

3. The lab isolates and pulls meristems, then grows them into Gen 0.

4. Multiply to Gen 0 Sub 1 if you need volume.

5. Gen 0 becomes your new, clean mom.

6. Gen 1 — clones off that mom — is your first production stock.

How long does that take? The industry standard is roughly 9 months from cells, per Jesse. Pushed hard, MTHRSHP can run it in about 3 months. The realistic average they quote is around 5 to 6 months. It depends on how much clean stock you start with and the genotype.

Now look at the two ends of that timeline:

Step one happens on your turf: treating the mom and taking the snips. Then, there’s a step after step six that isn’t even on the list: bringing a sterile plant home without killing it.

Those two moments are where most clean stock actually gets lost. They’re also the most hands-on part of this entire process, and the part you fully control.

That’s the playbook below: the exact IPM for shipping material in, and for bringing it back to life. Two printable SOPs included.

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A lot of growers either spray everything, or they never want to spray at all. But for cannabis, the best path is usually somewhere in the middle.

As Zac put it, there are folks that talk about being successful, and then there are those of us that get out there and do it. Good IPM works the same way. It is not about having a perfect idea on paper. It is a…

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Why Amino Acids Matter

A lot of growers want stronger roots, faster development, and better stress tolerance. The usual path is synthetic hormones. But there is a cleaner way.

Amino acids let us stimulate specific plant responses without harmful residuals.

These acids can mimic hormone effects, but the difference is they break down into plant parts, not in…

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Organic vs. synthetic is the wrong argument.

Not because it doesn’t matter what you feed, but because most growers lose crops for reasons that have nothing to do with ideology.

They lose crops because plants get stressed.

They lose crops because nutrition isn’t available when it’s needed.

They lose crops because the root zone isn’t resilient.

Once stress sho…

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Not every grow gets a dry season.

In some places, like Hawaii, it’s wet all the time. And that brings its own problems.

Ben has a client on the Big Island whose plants live in 70-90% humidity, every day.

Unlike Colorado, you can’t treat powdery mildew (PM) or botrytis as rare events when there’s always a heavy moisture presence in the air. You have to trea…

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Tissue culture (TC) is one of the best tools we have to clean up cultivars but here’s the thing people forget:

Clean plants are vulnerable plants.

The moment they leave a sterile agar environment, they’re exposed to inoculum in your media, your room, and your system. Without the right biology in place, these plants don’t stand a chance.

Sterility is not su…

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If you’re mixing and spraying every week but still chasing the same pests or pathogens, this one’s for you.

Tank mixing might be the easiest way to make your IPM more efficient, more effective, and a whole lot less work. But only if you’re mixing the right products.

As Zac put it recently:

“Sometimes it’s not a chemistry issue. It’s a coverage or timing …

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If you're staying on top of your sprays, making sure applications are done on a regular basis but still seeing issues pop up, this is for you.

Whether you're working with six plants in a tent or 10,000 in a greenhouse, one of the most overlooked tools for effective pest and pathogen control is a surfactant.

Most growers are doing their best to stay on top…

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One of the most common mistakes we see in cultivation at scale is leaving the substrate alone in the name of microbial health.

Growers are often afraid to treat the soil and impact the ecosystem that has evolved from cycle to cycle, or they're afraid it'll wipe out the beneficials they've spent money on applying.

The truth is most of these soil grows are probably fighting more bad microbes than they are benefitting from good microbes.

The longer substrate goes untreated, the higher the chance that all biology (good, bad, or otherwise) establishes itself. All too often, that includes pathogens like fusarium, xanthomonas, or verticillium, that don't show up in veg and and you won’t know until it’s too late to fix.

Proper microbe management means cleaning while you cook.

It's not about nuking your soil. It's about giving your beneficials the best chance of impacting your efforts.

Sterilization Isn’t a Dirty Word

It's true, most soil treatment products are non-discriminatory (they kill the good with the bad).

So, in effect, treatments are like resetting the system at that point. Unfortunately, some of the good guys are going to go with them. But here's the thing: Biological inoculants work better in clean environments.

When we reset a substrate before reinoculating, we give those beneficials a clean surface to colonize. That means less competition, faster establishment, and higher efficacy. Think of it like painting a wall: If the surface is already greasy, bumpy, and cracked, your expensive paint job won’t stick — and won’t last.

But microbe management isn't a one-and-done scenario; it requires routine and rotation.

Treatment Rotation Prevents "Resistant" Microbes (Using pH to Your Advantage)

Just like nutrients are absorbed best at specific pH ranges, microbes also thrive, or resist, based on pH.

But using one product or one method to treat your substrate means you're missing out on microbes that exist in different pH ranges than your single treatment.

Some microbes resist acids.

Some resist bases.

If you only treat one pH range, the survivors become your dominant population, aka "the resistance". If you’re only using an acid-based drench like Zerotol, you are likely leaving entire classes of microbes untouched. We often mistake this for microbes "building resistance," when the reality is that you just aren't using the right tool to target them.

Like microbe biology, the more diverse your approach to micromanagement, the more success you're going to have.

If you use a microbe inoculant that's one strain, you might see some benefits. But if we use a more diverse option, we'll see better results.

The Brewery Analogy: Acid and Caustic

Ask any master brewer how they keep tanks clean and you’ll hear the same thing:

“We rotate acid and caustic washes to achieve full-spectrum sterility.”

They’ll use an acid like Star San (similar to PAA or Zerotol 2.0). Then, they'll follow up with a caustic like Powdered Brewery Wash (similar to PerCarb or Green Clean Pro). Why? Because one bad microbe ruins the whole brew. Sound familiar?

Sterility isn’t overkill — it’s a standard operating procedure in any system where biology and quality matter. Your substrate deserves the same respect.

Living Soil vs. Practical Soil

Now here’s where things get controversial: Does microbial age matter?

Said differently: Are older microbes that have evolved in an untouched container going to outperform newly inoculated beneficials?

Short answer: No.

Some growers swear by no-till, no-touch, let-nature-do-its-thing approaches. And in theory, that’s beautiful. But it's out of reach for most people. Unless you’re a soil biologist, managing the variance of organic soil nutrients as well as the microbial balance in living systems is a full-time job that 80% of growers aren’t doing right. Red wrigglers and aeration can help. But they don’t undo compaction, unbalanced nutrient zones, or years of microbe buildup.

Most no-till beds are just neglected beds.

We’re not saying living soil doesn’t work. We’re saying routine cleaning and reinoculation often outperforms no-till approaches in commercial settings when yield and predictability matter. New beneficials have a clean slate to thrive without competing with old colonies (good and bad).

Microbe Management Applies to All Media, Even Rockwool.

We’ve talked a lot about soil, but this isn’t just a dirt grower issue.

Even “inert” media like coco or rockwool can host microbial life, and that includes pathogens. Rockwool is especially notorious for fusarium and algae issues if left untreated. If you’re not cleaning during and between cycles, you’re playing with fire.

It only takes one hidden spore to compromise your next run.

The Clean Growers' Simple 3-Step Microbial Management SOP

Here’s a field-tested substrate treatment rotation to reduce resistance, clear out pathogens, and give your inoculants the best chance to thrive:

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Outdoor growing offers numerous advantages: free light, fresh air, and space to spread out.

But it also throws curveballs that indoor cultivators simply don’t deal with. If you’ve ever had a crop get ruined by something you didn’t even see coming, or if you're trying your hand at outdoor after years of growing indoors, this one’s for you.

Here are 11 of …

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Clones play an important role in cannabis, both as the most common source of genetics in the industry for production, and also in terms of genetic preservation (keeping beloved varieties around). There's a predictability to running identical copies of a proven plant. But those copies bring both the good and the bad.

A dirty clone can cost a facility mill…

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The one thing we want to hammer home is that testing is a necessary expense as a modern cannabis grower, without exception.

Not every test is for every grower, but every grower should be testing.

There is no way for you to effectively target issues if you don't know what is going on in your grow. With pathogens, often symptoms don't present until it's too…

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If you've been around IPM long enough, heard Zac speak, or picked up a copy of Clean Growing, you've likely heard that Beauvaria bassiana is an effective tool for pest mitigation.

Beauvaria is a great follow-up to azadirachtin when fighting a wide variety of pests.

But what many growers often overlook is the endophytic benefits of this fungus, and how the…

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In October 2024, for the first time ever, OSHA announced it would start Colorado cannabis inspections.

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) focuses on worker safety.

As their regional director Chad Vivian told Westword, "All we look at is worker safety. It's kind of a whole set of separate regulations. We don't have any specific regula…

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There's been a lot of chatter in the grow community about water quality recently, specifically as it relates to the effect on final product.

What's the best way to treat your water? But also, what are the potential impacts of treating your water?

Ben saw West Coast Alchemy (among others) discussing the effect of hypochlorite chemistry (typically bleach) &…

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