Also, if you haven’t subscribed yet, you should. I’m hoping to drop more of these in the coming months.

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I’ve noticed a strange trend. A very prominent, beloved beauty brand did something weird, twice, and I think that’s important. It connects to a larger theme I’m seeing across the beauty industry, which is brands’ incessant need to justify new launches as anything other than a ploy to make more money. In today’s market, you can no longer simply launch a new lip gloss—it needs to be innovative, it needs to solve a problem, it needs to disrupt. When did simply being good stop being enough?

Anyway, let’s go back to the start; this example I mentioned. I’m hesitant to say the brand’s name outright—because I really do like it and I don’t need to be on its shit list—but I’m sure I’ll give enough details that you can figure it out for yourself. This isn’t an admonishment of the brand so much as a microcosm of a larger trend. Henceforth, it shall be known as The Brand, TB for short.

Twice, The Brand has claimed to “enter a new category” with whatever latest launch it was peddling. Totally normal, right? Except neither of those launches were TB’s first foray into the given categories. So why say that? Why would it even matter?

The first time was more of a technicality. The Brand was launching a fragrance, which it did not previously have in its permanent collection. So yeah, in a way that’s a new category. But not really, because several years ago, TB launched a limited-edition trio of perfume oils—one of which is incredibly similar to this new scent.

More recently, TB is gearing up to launch body products. I’m quoting the press release I was sent directly here, with a few redactions: “THE BRAND REDACTED is entering a new category with the launch of the REDACTED BODY PRODUCT and REDACTED BODY MIST, extending the brand’s beloved sensorial and nourishing experience beyond skincare into the body.”

Again, this simply isn’t the case. And it’s even more egregious, because a body-care product is actively for sale on The Brand’s website! A product in this category is already part of the permanent collection. Not to mention there was yet another limited-edition product in the category TB previously launched—and then brought back a year later due to demand.

It got me thinking. Why was TB so hesitant to link these launches to previous products? Why was it so insistent on framing them as radical, as something incredibly special and exciting? Why couldn’t TB just say, “Based on the previous fanfare our last fragrances got, we decided to further expand into the category”? It feels like those stakes aren’t high enough any more. Why all the manufactured hullabaloo?

Even as I’m typing this up, I just got an email claiming a hair-care line is “entering a new hair category.” Isn’t the category just…hair? See, this is really a thing!

False claims, or at the very least, misleading claims taken out of context, are nothing new in beauty. It’s one of my biggest gripes with the industry. Claiming a sunscreen won’t leave a white cast, calling a three-shade range “universal,” using unregulated descriptors like sensitive skin-safe or clean—these are regular occurrences.

I believe we are entering a new phase of this strange marketing tactic. Many of the new beauty launches in my inbox have some sort of justification attached; some reason that the product is totally earth-shattering and worthy of launching. Products that “rethink what consumers can expect from” a given category (I don’t know, facial mists); “first-of-its-kind” treatments that aren’t really reinventing the wheel; “next-generation” mumbo jumbo. Like The Brand, these claims seem to act as pretenses for adding yet another plastic bottle into the market.

It’s a subtle nuance, but, I believe, an important one. Whereas many claims intend to make a product more appealing, these are playing the defensive immediately. It’s almost like the brands are trying to preemptively answer the inevitable “is this new launch really worth your money?” TikToks. It’s like brands are flinching before they’re even hit; the internet’s a very mean, unforgiving place and brands are trying to get ahead of it. But a new foundation can be an amazing without completely reinventing foundations. A fragrance can be worthy without it being the brand’s entrance into the category.

I think there are a few reasons this is happening. I discussed the whole weird defensiveness thing above. This obsession with innovation and the need to be reinventing the wheel with every launch feels inextricably linked to the current attention economy. With so much stuff, brands need a way to differentiate their launches from other ones. They need some sort of wow factor, a reason to be (other than just existing for sales). Ultimately, it feels like brands are trying to frame new launches as noble pursuits rather than what they really are: attempts at making money. It’s this weird mind game where, in order to make money, brands have to pretend like it isn’t about the money; like they’re doing something totally radical. And sure, sometimes brands really are breaking the mold and doing something different, but not this often.

I don’t think any of this is necessarily new—and it’s definitely not ubiquitous. Brands are always trying to dress up their new launches as something worthy of attention. Come one, come all, to see our first-ever entrance into this very exciting category! Can you believe we’re completely reinventing bronzers because ours has different undertones? This isn’t a regular hand cream, it’s one with a beard on! It feels like brands are desperately clawing at any means of differentiation. For some reason, it feels more desperate than ever. We’re forgetting that simply making a good product is enough.

I keep going back and forth, whether this is a truly novel trend or just something I’m suddenly noticing. Maybe I’m being sensitive. I’ve been in a generally gloomy, cynical mood lately, which I’ll maybe talk about eventually, and I’ve found it worming its way into everything. Whatever may be the case, it feels particularly pertinent right now, as we live in this weird hell-ish world where a million things are constantly fighting for our attention and money. It feels kind of aggressive and weird and, like I said, desperate.

That’s my two cents for now, but I’d love to hear your thoughts on the matter!

Xx

I am currently in the beauty mecca that is South Korea, and it felt like the perfect time to do a little industry pulse check. I am learning so much from these influencers! These ladies are making MONEY. I’m beyond stoked for this trip—I only have three full days there, and I intend to make the most of every little second.

In beauty world, things are, as I like to say, same same but different. That is, the general themes and issues dominating the industry have remained, but with a new set of particulars.

I’m sure we all saw the absolutely wild beauty pop-ups at Coachella—as always, the response has been equal parts excitement and disgust. Obviously Rhode World was major; seemingly taking in the footsteps of Revolve Fest. Beyond that, nothing stood out to me as particularly interesting or novel. I did love abundance of the Neutrogena SPF available at the actual festival, as I always do. I will say, I was not impressed with the glam among attendees, beyond my friend Beth Gilette (beauty editor at Cosmo). I want more fun! More wow!

I’m deep in product testing for the Marie Claire beauty awards, which kind of feels like playing Russian roulette with my face. Will this SPF break me out? Cool, what about this one? Or this one? I’ve been working hard to create a standardized, formal testing process—I just want to do this right, I’m so sick of hearing people say beauty awards are bullshit. Wish me luck!

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Now, let’s get to the news.

This newsletter is sponsored by Cora, my feminine care brand of choice. The brand recently launched the Less-Is-More Thong Liner, an organic cotton topsheet specifically designed to fit thong underwear. They’re ultra-thin and soft, and fit snuggly into the tiniest of panties. They’re perfect for those days when you’ve decided you’re done with your period, but your period isn’t done with you. I’m also a huge fan of the brand’s Comfort Fit Tampons and the Simply Soothing Heating Patches, which are equally amazing for cramps and neck aches. Shop now at cora.com.

• Is Kris Jenner’s facelift slipping? (Allure): There’s been renewed interest in Kris Jenner’s face after “a source close to Jenner” told Radar her facelift was already slipping and that “she is not happy with the results and is desperate to get a revision—she feels it has not held the way she expected.” To review, Jenner had her (second) facelift just under a year ago in May 2025. She was quite public about it, sharing it was performed by NYC plastic surgeon Dr. Steven Levine. While she didn’t specify the type of facelift she got, Dr. Levine specializes in a lateral SMASectomy—a technique in which the lower face is lifted by removing a strip of the superficial musculoaponeurotic system (SMAS) before suturing the edges back together—in combination with a deep structural neck lift, which sculpts the tissue underneath the platysma muscle (a thin sheet-like muscle that runs from the lower face down to the upper chest). Many online plastic surgeons have criticized the technique, suggesting it doesn’t hold up as well as a deep-plane facelift.

  

  • First and foremost, let’s remember this “source close to Jenner” could very well be lying. They could also have no idea what they’re talking about. We don’t know if this is true, and we don’t know what type of facelift she got (though we can make an educated guess on the latter given Dr. Levine’s specialty). We also don’t have any true before-and-after pictures to compare—sure, we have pictures of her both prior to and following the surgery, but she’s in full glam and they’re likely filtered.

    Let’s review the facts: Dr. Levine definitely gave Kris Jenner a facelift at some point last year, when she was 69 years old. Dr. Levine was a renowned (and expensive) plastic surgeon prior to his association with Jenner. She has had (at least) one facelift before, which she says she got 15 years ago. Facelifts generally fall faster on patients who are older and/or those who have had a facelift before—multiple studies have confirmed this. In the early post-op phase, the face is still swollen and taut, which gives a more youthful look. For this reason, many surgeons suggest patients won’t see true results until around the one-year mark.

    With all those considerations in mind, sure, there’s a very real possibility that Jenner feels unsatisfied with her results about a year after the procedure, now that her face has had time to fully heal. It’s also possible, albeit less so, that her facelift really is slipping, likely as a result of her age and her previous facelifts—but I’m skeptical on that front. I think, if anything, it is the first.
    I’ve reached a particularly fun time in my life in which several of the older women I know are getting facelifts, and honestly, a lot of the results can look a bit…intense in the early post-op time. Their faces are tight and puffy, and it absolutely looks like they’ve had the skin pulled back. I’ve found that with time, virtually all of their faces have settled into what I think to be a very tasteful, subtle lift.
    I can’t remember who, but a plastic surgeon once told me that facelifts don’t stop the aging clock, they simply wind it back a few years. So yes, a face will still age, even after a facelift. If anything, shouldn’t that make the facelift appear more natural over time?
    I guess my biggest takeaway from this whole thing is who actually cares? If Kris Jenner’s facelift is slipping, I trust that she’ll do what she feels needs to be done to restore it back to its most lifted, tightest state. And the odds she’ll ever tell us about that are 50/50, on a good day.

• RFK Jr. seems to be bullish on peptides—along with far too many other people (BoF): Not sure if you’ve heard, but a lot of people are injecting a lot of peptides into their bodies—looksmaxxers, menopausal women, athletes, influencers, Andrew Huberman, etc. The claims are wide-reaching: they heal injuries, build muscle, smoothing skin, “extending life,” you name it. The evidence, however, is minimal, at best. We have no conclusive data on their safety, and no major studies in human bodies to prove they even work. Animal studies and anecdotal evidence is really all we’ve got at this point. There are FDA-approved peptide injections, like GLP-1 drugs, which have been carefully studied, tested, reviewed, and regulated. But all that oversight adheres to GLP-1 injections specifically, not all peptide injections. And it’s not just the lack of clinical data on peptide injections, because they’re unregulated, you can’t ever really know what’s inside a vial. One peptide-testing company in Texas recently told the Guardian that around a third of the products it has tested have “failed basic quality checks.” That’s really bad odds for something you inject into your bloodstream. Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. (boo, tomato, tomato!!!) has announced the FDA will hold meetings this summer to discuss relaxing limits on more than half a dozen commonly sought (yet unproven) peptides and whether pharmacies should be allowed to manufacture them. He says this move will help shut down the black market for these products.

  

  • A growing number of Americans are buying unapproved, unregulated and potentially dangerous peptide injections. That’s definitely a problem. But the solution to the problem isn’t to simply formalize supply. That’s kind of like suggesting we legalize ecstasy sales to avoid it being laced with fentanyl. It ignores the issue of ecstasy itself! Okay, there are some differences, but stick with me. In this case, simply ensuring peptide vials aren’t being contaminated does nothing to address the lack of data surrounding the peptides themselves.
    It’s not lost on me that many of the people bullish on these unproven peptide injectables are the same people spewing nonsense about harmful chemicals in your skincare products. It’s hypocritical, obviously, but it all reinforces something far more dangerous, the rejection of science and fact. I fear we’re forgetting very basic principles: Anecdotes are not facts and one-off studies are not conclusive. Allowing pharmacies to sell peptides does not mean they are proven to actually work. And without conclusive data on whether various peptides work safely and effectively, as well as how long and who they are safe and effective for, it’s just not worth the risk. I really do believe it’s that simple.

• GLP-1 hair loss is beauty’s next big opportunity (Beauty Independent): Much like the GLP-1-induced protein craze, GLP-1-related hair loss is spurring an entire new commercial category. In the last couple of years, we’ve seen everyone from established haircare brands (like BondiBoost, Vegamour, Redken, Nutrafol, Virtue, etc.) to indie startups created entirely around the trend (GLP Fix) are racing to get their market share. And it’s not simply tailored products; there are creator campaigns, clinical trials, and even massive retailer strategies dedicated to solving GLP-1 hair loss. The financial opportunity is massive: By 2035, Morgan Stanley estimates that 15% of the U.S. population will take GLP-1 medications, and Google Trends reported “hair loss” was the most-searched beauty topic of 2025.

  

  • Blah, blah, blah, everyone except me and like five other people are taking GLP-1s, and they’re experiencing yet another major repercussion. I know the drug has been effective for many people, including those who actually need it for medical reasons, but I’m just exhausted by all the chatter. This isn’t beauty’s first response to GLP-1 use’s many side effects. I couldn’t possibly count the number of skin care launches that have come across my desk in the last few years specifically targeting GLP-1-induced skin laxity—and from some really well-known brands. And I get it, I see the very real demand.
    I think it’s important to also consider the increasing normalization of hair loss. Across both genders, we’ve seen far more frank conversations about hair loss and the effect it can have on mental health. I have to imagine that is having an impact on the growing hair-loss market. And with that in mind, it’s nice to have more cosmetic options.
    The problem, to me, comes when these products are marketed specifically for GLP-1 users. Here’s some fun gossip for the close readers: Last year, a very popular, “medical-grade” skincare brand launched a serum that was specifically tested on GLP-1 users to combat accelerated skin laxity and volume loss. While the product wasn’t made exclusively for GLP-1 users, it focused on them almost entirely in all marketing material. The product wasn’t particularly well received, and the team reached out to me a few months later asking for my candid feedback. My feelings then, in October 2025, are the exact same today: Framing a product around GLP-1 use and then off-handedly mentioning that the product will also work for the general population makes non GLP-1 users feel like an afterthought. That might attract people taking GLP-1s, but what about everyone else? It feels almost exclusionary. Honestly, I tend to write off a product that says it’s made for GLP-1 users. Because I am not one of those people! So what would it do for me? I understand not all products are made for all people—and I’m not saying they should be—but I think marketing a beauty product to only GLP-1 users is a dangerous trap, and I fear many haircare brands will fall for it. I’d also be remiss if I didn’t mention the fact that it further normalizes the wide-spread use of the drug, and tacitly reinforces the idea that more people should be on such medication.

• VIOLETTE_FR Plume Eyeshadow Feather Veil ($32): VIOLETTE_FR is one of the rare makeup brands that consistently offers innovative products. That’s likely because French makeup artist Violette Serrat launched the brand while simultaneously acting as the global creative director of makeup for Guerlain—she didn’t need to create the basics. Serrat fuses cutting-edge formulations with an effortless French girl vibe that makes for some of the coolest products on the market. These new shadows are no exception. With four shimmer and four matte shades, the sheer, cream-to-powder formula creates a soft, diffused veil of color that can easily be smudged across the eyes in seconds. I didn’t even know about this launch (bad beauty writer!), until my friend Sam Hollender, senior beauty editor at Marie Claire, posted about them on TikTok—after which I promptly called them in for testing (“called in” is beauty-editor speak for emailing a brand’s PR and asking them to send you the product). They remind me of the Merit Solo Shadows, except in bolder, fun colors with a powder dry down. These are available now at Sephora and violettefr.com!

• Anastasia Beverly Hills ArchiBrow Microblade Detailing Pencil ($30): Available now, ABH’s latest brow product features an ultra-thin, blade tip that delivers seamless hair-like strokes. It’s smudge-proof and claims to have a 12-hour wear time. I’ve been testing this out for a few weeks now, and I like it—but I don’t love it. First off, there’s no cap, it’s a twist-up situation. I want a cap in addition to the twist. It gives you an almost microblade-like effect thanks to its angled tip, but I think there’s a reason microbladed brows have largely fallen off. They’re kind of unnatural looking. While the thinness of the blade makes it harder to go overboard, I prefer a traditional pointed tip, rather than the longer angle. Also, because it’s a pencil, you have to drag the tip across your brow to get coverage, you can’t simply stamp it on, which makes for slightly longer strokes than I’d go for. Still a good option for those looking to spend less time perfecting their brows.

• Experiment Buffer Jelly ($32): Part oil, part gel, semi-occlusive, and surprisingly lightweight, this formula (it feels wrong calling it a true serum or oil) has been the final step of my evening skincare routine for the last few months. It locks in all the moisture and hydration—think of it as a milder version of slugging. It’s the kind of product that you put on before bed and wake up with still-dewy skin. I’ll probably pause on using it as the temperature gets warmer, but this will absolutely be a mainstay for me come fall.

Well, folks, that’s all I’ve got for you today. I’m thinking I’ll come back with a full Korea recap at some point, if that’s something you’d be interested in.

Okay, lots of love!

Xx

For those unaware (or just in need of a refresh), the sale utilizes a tier system to determine your percentage off as well as when you can shop: Rouge members get 20% off starting 4/10, VIBs get 15% off starting 4/14, and Insiders get 10% off starting 4/14. It’s totally free to join the loyalty program, and all Sephora collection products are 30% off.

I believe in a four-pronged approach here:

1. Big Kahunas/Investments: Any major splurges you’ve been eyeing

2. Restocks/Old Faithfuls: Even if you’re not currently in need, I strongly suggest restocking your favorite products while they’re at a discount

3. Missing in Actions/Routine Gaps: Anything missing in your routine that you’ve been meaning to fill

4. Sweet Treats/New Discoveries: Fun, new products you want to try

Obviously, I can’t speak to whatever you’ll be restocking, but I’m going to share my current Faithfuls, which I think can serve as your Sweet Treats! And I do have a few thoughts on the Big Kahunas. I can’t be sure about your MIAs but I find that most of the time these cover makeup brushes and the like, so I’ll address. Also, I suggest pre-filling up your cart, so when the sale begins, you can just check out. Easy! Below, my recommendations:

My Current (Old?) Faithfuls/Your Sweet Treats

A non-exhaustive list of the beauty products I’m loving right now and/or would strongly suggest. This is non-exhaustive, because writing them all out was so exhausting I’m sure I forgot a few. I’m going to try to keep my descriptions short and sweet, if at all, when needed, because there’s a lot to get through here.

Makeup

• Ciele Tint & PROTECT Serum Foundation SPF 50: On the thicker side; great medium natural coverage.

• Armani Luminous Silk Foundation

• Sarah Creal Face Flex Concealer: Thicker, hydrating concealer that can easily be spread across the entire face.

• Natasha Denona Hy-Glam Serum Concealer: Thinner serum-texture with medium-to-full coverage.

• Makeup by Mario Softsculpt Transforming Skin Enhancer

• Westman Atelier Sun Tone Bronzing Drops

• Haus Labs Precision Sculpt Contour Stick

• Westman Atelier Face Trace Contour Stick: I’d suggest getting the mini size.

• Patrick Ta Major Headlines Blush Duo: I’d suggest getting the mini size.

• Rare Beauty Soft Matte Bouncy Blush

• Rhode Pocket Blush

• Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks + Face Trace Powder Duo

• One/Size Mini Ultimate Blurring Setting Powder: Specifically in the pink shade.

• Pat McGrath Skin Fetish Blurring Under Eye Powder

• Fenty Invisimatte Setting Powder

• Lancome Lash Idole Mascara

• Merit Solo Shadow Cream Shadow

• Makeup by Mario Ethereal Eyes Original Palette

• Benefit 24-HR Brow Setter Clear Brow Gel

• Benefit Precisely My Brow Detailer

• Kulfi Lassi Lips Staining Lip Oil: Rose is a perfect my-lips-but-better shade.

• M.ph The Overliner Lip Pencil

• Eadem Le ChouChou Lip Balm

• Benefit Benetint Lip Stain

• Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm

• YSL Love Shine Plumping Lip Gloss

• Saie Glossybounce Lip Gloss Oil

Hair

• Crown Affair The Towel

• Crown Affair Leave-In Conditioner

• Crown Affair Volumizing Shampoo

• Crown Affair Hydrating Conditioner

• Crown Affair The Clips

• Crown Affair Texturizing Mousse

• Chris McMillan Hair Mousse

• Chris McMillan Styling Balm

• Bondi Boost Heat Protect Spray

Body

• Cyklar Body Polish

• Cyklar Vanilla Verve Body Wash

• Cyklar Vanilla Verve Body Cream

• Aestura ATOBARRIER365 Moisturizing Body Lotion

• Dolce Glow 2-Hour Express Self-Tanning Mousse

• Lux Unfiltered Gradual Self Tanning Lotion

• Lux Unfiltered Supernatural Self Tanning Mousse

• Patrick Ta Major Glow Body Balm: Also love the brush made to go with it.

• Necessaire The Body Wash in Cypres-Citronne

Skincare

• Dieux Baptism Gel Cleanser: I don’t think you need to waste your money on a fancy cleanser.

• Dieux Instant Angel Moisturizer

• Rhode Glazing Milk

• Shiseido Cotton Pads

• Rhode Peptide Depuffing Eye Patches

• Tower28 SOS Spray

• Merit Great Skin Serum

• InnBeauty Project Extreme Cream

• Tatcha Dewy Milk Moisturizer

• Sofie Pavitt Face Omega Rich Moisturizer

• Experiment Buffer Jelly: Great last step in a skincare routine at night to really lock it all in.

• Ultra Violette Future Screen SPF

• Ultra Violette Supreme Screen SPF

• Ultra Violette Vibrant Screen Face and Body SPF

• Kosas DreamBeam SPF: I prefer the original shade.

Big Kahunas

We’re talking $100-plus investments.

• T3 Aire 360 Hair Styler With Dual Voltage: In the great debate of air stylers (Shark, Dyson, etc.), T3’s stands out for two big reasons: 1. It’s dual voltage, meaning you can bring it with you abroad and it won’t break; and 2. It uses ceramic curling attachments whereas the others use plastic ones. It’s also prettier. The one downside is that it doesn’t come with a true round-brush attachment. As someone who owns all three, I find myself reaching for this one the most.

• Mane It’s Giving Body Medium Hot Thermal Round Brush: Think of this like a straightener or curling iron—in that it should be used to style dry hair. It’s just a round brush that gets hot, which makes it easy to fake a blowout look in 15 minutes flat. Mane very smartly offers a larger size option as well as jumbo and petite ones. I prefer the medium one personally. I love these in general but I think they really shine on shorter vacations when you’re packing a carry-on and/or are trying to extend the longevity of a blowout. They take up incredibly little room in a bag, and they can keep a blowout looking fresh for days on end.

• T3 Switch Kit Wave Trio: I’d venture to say this interchangeable curling iron situation will cover any and all hair-curling needs. It features a 1-inch wand barrel, 1.25-inch clip barrel, and a 1.5-inch clip barrel, as well as a convertible power base. It’s super easy to switch off the heads (there’s a nice locking mechanism), and if you don’t know how to use a clip barrel, you can easily just hold the clip open and use it like a wand.

• Shark Beauty CryoGlow LED Mask: If you are considering investing in an LED mask during the Sephora sale, I suggest this one. First off, it offers four different treatments (including both anti-aging and acne ones), all of which are gloriously quick. There’s also cooling under-eye metal patches inside the mask which you can set at three different temperatures for de-puffing and tightening. It also has a solid battery life. As I always say, these things really only work if you use them regularly, so keep that in mind.

• Slip Silk Pillowcase - Standard/Queen: I know it might feel a little ridiculous to spend this much on a pillow case, but these are truly the best on the market. You can try the satin ones, but they just don’t hit the same. These are gentler on your hair and skin, and they’re just a lovely little treat every night. I have four, and just swap them out every week. Also, I wash mine on the delicate cycle and let them air dry, and they’ve held up incredibly well over the last four or so years.

Missing in Actions

I say this with love and light, but you people do not have nearly enough makeup brushes and I think it’s holding you all back. Below, I’m going to list some of my top picks with brief explanations, but I really want to note that you do not need to use a brush for its intended function. Play around and see what works best for you. I use a lot of eyeshadow brushes for concealer, foundation brushes for bronzers, etc. Also, keep in mind anything Sephora Collection is 30%.

• Makeup by Mario F4 Foundation and Face Brush: This is a great brush to start off with because it demonstrates my above point perfectly. I use this to apply and blend out cream bronzer. It’s great for any and all cream/liquids, and it’s one of my favorite brushes. I own two!

• It Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe Complexion Brush #7: Probably my favorite makeup brush ever. You can use it for foundation, concealer, blush, bronzer, the works. I own four, I basically have one on me at all times. I really love to use it to blend over any harsh lines in my makeup—I’ll just take the brush without any product on it and gently pat it on my face.

• Sephora Collection PRO Crease Brush #27: In order to create a great eye look, you need at least one dedicated crease brush (though honestly I’d say two or three different ones, as we’ll discuss below). This paddle shape is great for applying and blending out shadow in the crease. I’d usually use a brush like this with my bronzer and buff it into my crease.

• Sephora Collection PRO Concealer Brush #71: I like these little paw-style brushes for concealer. It lays down product nicely and works to build up coverage and smoothly blend.

• Sephora Collection PRO Crease Brush #24: A smaller, rounded crease brush for more precise application and blending, also works great in the crease.

• Sephora Collection PRO Crease Brush #19: An even smaller (can you believe it?!) crease brush for detailing and targeted application. I really think you need several different sized crease brushes if you’re taking makeup seriously.

• Makeup by Mario EF1 Dual-Ended Cream & Powder Brush: Another great crease brush (the fluffier one), as well as a nice flat brush head that works nicely with cream products and packing down powder shadow in the center of the lid.

• Makeup by Mario EF2 Blending Eye and Face Brush: I like to use this one without any product on it to gently buff out my eyeshadow and make sure there are no harsh lines. I usually dust it over the outer rim of my shadow using light circular motions.

• Sephora Collection PRO Brow Brush #20: Last eye brush, I swear. Use this for eyeliner or filling in the brows. Also has a spoolie!

• Haus Labs Dual-Ended Multi-Purpose Brush: I use this brush for my contour, and I really love it. I use the denser side to lay down product and gently buff it out with the fluffier side. Would also be great for cream/liquid blushes.

• Sephora Collection PRO Blush Brush #96: Great for powder blushes or bronzers; I’ve also used it for cream blushes but prefer other brushes for that.

• Sephora Collection PRO Blush Brush #99: I love this one for cream and liquid blushes.

• Ciele Flush Blush Brush: I’d call this an intermediate brush. I like to use it to diffuse powder blush or highlighter. Would also be good for setting powder.

• Cinema Secrets Makeup Brush Cleaner Pro Starter Kit: You people also don’t clean your brushes enough. This does not substitute a true wash situation, but it will greatly extend your time between each wash. Basically, you’re going to pour a little bit of the blue liquid in that tin. Dip your brush tip into the tin so the liquid covers about a quarter of the way up the brush bristles (you really don’t need much!). Then, swirl your brush clean on a paper towel or cloth. Voila!

Okay! My hands hurt from typing. Happy shopping!!

Xx

Dani

Sorry for going a bit MIA there. The honeymoon quickly snowballed into Christmas followed by that glorious no man’s land of time and then New Years. Happy 2026! I love any excuse to wipe the slate clean and take stock of my life (new years, Mondays, fresh notebooks, etc.). I make my best decisions a few feet removed from the minutiae; I’m able to step back and think.

To that end, I’ve decided to pause Glossed Over (sort of; at least in its current iteration) for the time being while I pursue the litany of other things I’d like to do well. Because I’m doing too much, and I’d rather do a few things really well.

And honestly, I don’t think I’m doing Substack all that well! That’s not fishing for compliments. I tend to think quite linearly. I like organization, consistency, and order. But the best Substacks abandon all that in favor of voice and nuance and atrocious grammar. If this sort of stream of consciousness, which I guess is what I’m doing right now, is what the people want, I’m just not in the place to give them that regularly. Or maybe I just don’t want to have to do it regularly.

From today on, I’ll be pausing all paid subscriptions so no money is coming my way. But don’t just leave me high and dry! I’ll be popping in every so often when I have things to say—you know I can’t keep my mouth shut (or fingers off the keyboard?) too long. Anything I write here during this time will be totally free and open to all.

But in the interest of serving the people, today I want to go through some of my favorite brands and products of 2025.

My friend Mary challenged me to pick the best makeup, haircare, skincare, body, and fragrance products of the year—one per category, which is insane. But rather than doing that, three brands came to my mind as this year’s best. So that’s how I’m going to do it. And then, sure, I’ll tell you some of my favorite products too.

What exactly does “the best” mean in this case? Because these things are so often arbitrary and subjective. To me, the best brands aren’t necessarily the ones with the best product of the year, the most persistent (or creative) marketing, or the best PR people (though that does go a long way—in fact, particularly bad PR people have turned me off of brands completely).

Rather, these are the brands that are thoughtfully, steadily building their empires. An emphasis on thoughtfully. They’re listening to the consumers, they’re delivering top-notch products, they’re educating their fans, and they’re not being annoying about it. They’re approaching their given category from a great angle or maybe they’re just offering a tight, considered selection of products. Or maybe they just paid me a ton of money to say this (just kidding, but if a brand did want to do that…I’m just saying let’s talk—kidding! Again!) It’s a tough balance to strike. Anyway, if you disagree, please remember:

I give you, the three brands that won 2025, according to me:

1. Sarah Creal

For perhaps the first time ever, women 40-plus are actually being…considered. I realize I can’t comment on this meaningfully given I am 28 years young, but I do think I’ve listened to enough older women complain to get the gist. And while there’s been a slew of brands targeting this niche over the last few years (some very well, Jones Road, and others not so much), Sarah Creal really stands out to me. Probably because the namesake founder is an industry veteran with decades of experience—she really gets it. Like she was the CEO of Victoria Beckham Beauty gets it.

So what makes the brand so good? A huge part is customization. You would not believe how many brands use white labelling in some aspect. For those unfamiliar, labs, manufacturers, all the people involved in making and packaging a beauty product have standard, generic, ready-to-go items and formulas that the actual beauty brands can then purchase and use or sell as their own. That’s a big reason why a lot of brands come out with similar products at the same time. White labelling isn’t bad, per say. It allows for quick market entry with low investment and leverages expertise. It’s certainly cheaper than anything custom. Sometimes, brands can only afford white label! Tangent aside, Sarah Creal seems to customize every aspect of its products—formulation, packaging, the whole works. I mean, one look at that heavy, chic packaging and you know that brand has money. Because the brand was able to invest in custom formulas, it’s been able to bake its mission into each and every product. Every offering focuses on wear, repair, and moisturization. Obviously, this is a huge advantage that most emerging brands don’t have access to. They’ve also been able to third-party clinical test everything.

Anyway, yes, Sarah Creal is very fancy and customized to cater to women 40-plus, but what really sets it apart is its mass appeal. I believe this is unmatched by any of its competitors (yes, even by Jones Road). Who would’ve thought! Older women have the right idea!

Obviously, I have not shut up about the Face Flex Concealer. Dare I say it’s well worth the $58. It’s creamy and easy to use and really does flex with the skin to minimize creasing and it has this beautiful natural medium coverage that actually covers things up without looking makeup-y.

But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Every product in this lineup is a standout. And, Sarah Creal hasn’t bombarded us with a million (if any?) new launches since it entered the market. It’s focused on doing what it does really well. Good job.

First off, it’s quite scientific—third-party clinical testing, custom (not white-labeled) formulas, all that good stuff. But it’s also chic.

2. Chris McMillan

I admit, I was hesitant when Chris McMillan, creator of The Rachel and hairstylist genius extraordinaire, announced his new line of products. His ambition to be “all things hair” struck me as broad and boringly unspecific. But honestly, since getting the seven-product lineup, Chris McMillan has kind of become…all things hair…to me. So I was wrong!

What sets Chris McMillan’s line apart is twofold: the products are just plain bonkers amazing, and the education is really really good. I’d consider hair to be my weakest beauty category. I’ve been blessed with generally unproblematic hair (except for when my oily scalp acts up) that air dries quite nicely on its own, so I just never really had to learn how to deal with it. But I’ve been on my own hair journey, and I feel like this line significantly increased my know-how. I’m doing regular blowouts these days!

I think this is in large part thanks to the brand’s ability to infuse education into virtually everything it does. None of these products reinvent the wheel—we’ve seen mousse before, we’ve seen hairspray, hair gel, etc. But they’re simply the best of their kind. No cute product names—you know exactly what The Mousse is. The product descriptions succinctly explain what each does and what to expect. For example, with The Mousse, part of the description explains that the product will set hair with a crunchy cast, and that that’s totally normal and you should trust the process. A key piece of information! This is in addition to a “How to Use” section. Each product also comes with a tip straight from Chris himself—and they’re actually helpful! Every time he pops up on my feed, Chris is almost always working behind the salon chair, showing his products in use. Very smart.

Also, this is another brand that’s been slow and steady. In a sea of launches, Chris McMillan launched with seven products and has only introduced one new offering—mini sizes of those pre-existing stylers—since then.

I regularly use four of the seven—The Glassy Smooth Blowdry Spray, The Styling Balm (which has been the most surprising favorite for me!), The Dry Texture Spray, and The Mousse. And I like the other three! Just not in my regular rotation. You really can’t go wrong here. Just pick the product you think you’ll use, and trust me, you will.

3. Cyklar

I have this strange obsession with successful rebrands. I think admitting you were wrong and going back to the drawing board shows a lot of humility and commitment. This is almost certainly a factor in why I’ve been loving Cyklar so much. Shockingly few people remember its initial iteration: a glass tub of body cream that was so deeply boring to me, I didn’t bother to really pay much attention. For background, Cyklar is founded by influencer Claudia Sulewski (she is the fiancé of Finneas, who is Billie Eilish’s brother—not that it matters but that’s how a lot of people know her). Another influencer brand flop, I thought. I wasn’t alone, clearly, given Cyklar’s rebrand just a year after launch. And oh my god, did Claudia really turn this ship around. To be fair, she did take on a significant investment from The Center (brand incubator and investment firm for Phlur, Make, Prequel, and Saltair—as well as Naturium, which it later sold to E.l.f. Beauty), so that definitely helped with its new face.

Twelve nuanced scents, plus an unscented option; gloriously large pump-top body washes at a really perfect medium price ($35; not masstige, not luxury); and a really nice formula—like luxurious feeling. From there, the brand branched out into corresponding body creams, body oils, perfume oils, deodorants, and innovative in-shower body oil balms, as well as a few unscented exfoliating products. Good news, everything rocks. Cyklar offers an experience. You’re not just getting skincare-level ingredients or a silky foaming gel or deep hydration or delicious, considered fragrance. You’re getting it all, baby. And at that perfect price point! I really think the pricing here cannot be underemphasized. It feels like a splurge for body products without being, say, $45 for an eight-ounce tub of cream (which is exactly what the first launch was, lol).

I absolutely love the body washes, body creams, and body oils, particularly in the Vanilla Verve, Sacred Santal, and Naked Neroli scent profiles. I really like the Milky Essence (not a need but very nice to have) and In-Shower Body Oil Balms. And I know I’m underusing the perfume oils—Sex Musk in particular is really great.

Okay, now some more goodbyes and last notes.

I want to extend a heartfelt thank you to each and every person subscribed to this Substack. I have to admit, I’m surprised how many of you are here—and while I worry many have been bullied into this (by me or my mother, etc.), I have to assume at least half of you are here on your own volition. Either way, thank you. Letting someone into your inbox is intimate (and annoying!) and I appreciate the access.

In the meantime, you can keep up with me on Instagram, where I’ll be sure to share more of my writing now that it’s not coming to you all directly. My DMs are open for any questions or thoughts or just to say hi. You can find all of my favorite beauty products on my ShopMy page. I’ll also be regularly embarrassing myself over on TikTok.

I think that’s all! Remember, I’ll be back soon, but like I don’t know how soon. So don’t ask! Just think of it as a nice little surprise from me every so often.

Xx

Dani

Guys, I have a confession: I’m kind of lost track of the weeks here. Is this my ninth week? Or was last week my ninth week? Whatever, it doesn’t really matter.

Last week was, in a word, miserable. It felt like I was eternally living in the first five minutes after waking up—groggy, desperate to go back to sleep, stuck in a haze of clouds. I felt inept and exhausted and useless and totally unmotivated. I made a list of potential reasons: I was a week away from my period, my enemies had placed a hex on me, maybe the decades-long reserve of Adderall in my bloodstream was finally drying up, and so on. My therapist proved each one wrong, though she did say there could be some credence to the pre-period thing. Or, she said, maybe it’s just a bad week.

But that would be the worst possible reason. Some weeks, at the whim of my well-documented shoddy mental health, I just won’t be able to function? That seems unfair. On the flip side, this week has been much better—perhaps even great! Sometimes life is just weird.

We head to Thailand on Monday for our honeymoon, and I am just over-the-moon excited. We’re trying to take the whole two weeks off of any real work so I will be MIA for a bit. Until then you can find me on Instagram and TikTok, where I’ll likely be posting updates from abroad (unless I forget or don’t feel like it). I’m so excited to have two weeks where my lack of Adderall just doesn’t matter. What a dream!

I hope to come back wiser and refreshed and two inches taller (a girl can dream).

Bye for now! X

Hi! Sorry about the two-in-one situation here. But I think it’s kind of topical given what this one’s about.

I’ve been thinking a lot about what I put on my plate, metaphorically speaking; my responsibilities, whether they’re self-imposed or simply a fact of life. I once heard, on god knows what podcast, that we all have different sized appetites and plates—some people can handle more commitments than others; some people like to have a lot going on, others not so much. But you can still have a lot on your plate, no matter what size it is.

On Adderall, my plate was more like a serving platter, the kind you pull out for the turkey on Thanksgiving. And I was feasting. I like being busy; there’s something about the low hum of a never-ending to-do list that helps me drown out my own anxieties and neuroses. It keeps me on my toes.

But as I’ve been tapering off of Adderall—I’m sure you can see where this is going—that plate is shrinking. I can’t tell if that’s okay or a serious problem.

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And please, if you take any of my recommendations, consider purchasing the products from these links—I’ll get a tiny commission but more importantly it’s a sign to brands that people actually value my opinions! Thank you in advance.

Above the fold (AKA the paywall), let’s go through the five products I think everyone could benefit from. You’ve probably heard me wax poetic about at least half of these at one point or another.

1. Sarah Creal Face Flex Concealer ($58): While technically formulated for mature skin, this creamy concealer works on skin of all ages. It’s almost a foundation in concealer form, making it highly buildable with an airbrush-like finish. It’s medium coverage, and I especially like to use this alone sans foundation; it really holds its own. It subtly brightens the skin and never looks cake-y or crusty.

2. Makeup by Mario Softsculpt Transforming Skin Enhancer ($34): You quite literally cannot mess up with this product; it’s sheer enough that you can easily buff out any mistakes. You can think of it like a bronzer, though it really does so much more than that. It brightens the skin and evens tone instantly; it’s another product as good on its own as it is layered. The shades are so flexible, I can comfortably wear light medium or medium, depending on the day.

3. Ciele Tint & PROTECT Serum Foundation SPF 50: Ciele is criminally underrated in general—it comes from celeb makeup artist Nikki DeRoest—but this tinted serum really deserves more attention. It’s this perfect weightless texture that seamlessly blends into the skin for a true medium coverage that feels appropriate for everyday use. Plus it has SPF 50! And while you should absolutely still wear sunscreen underneath this, it certainly helps further protect against the sun’s harmful rays, meaning it’s actively helping your skin.

4. Sephora Pro 8-Piece Brush Set ($99): How this is not already sold out is beyond me. Not only is it 30% off for everyone (regardless of tier), but it’s also an incredible steal. Sephora quietly produces some of the best makeup brushes around, and this is a great opportunity to upgrade your unwashed, decades-old set or simply grow your collection. Also, the little case it comes in is an absolute game-changer for travel.

5. Hourglass Ambient Lighting Edit Unlocked Palette ($94): Another face product that is simply idiot-proof; you cannot go wrong here. The palettes include a mix of highlighters, blushes, bronzers, and finishing powders, all featuring Hourglass’s signature photo-luminescent technology to diffuse light and give skin that lit-from-within look. When in doubt, take a big fluffy brush, swirl it across all six shades and apply to cheekbones for a gorgeous flush.

Okay, now for the good stuff. See ya free subscribers.

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Hiiiiiii. Happy Halloween!

My full-time gig (WSJ) rarely impedes my other full-time gig (beauty writing), but today it is. Which is why this is all you’re getting for the introduction. I’ll be sharing a Sephora Special Sales Dispatch to my paid subscribers in the next few days, as well as this week’s Adderall Diaries. To upgrade to a paid subscription, you can click here:

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If you feel inclined to like, share, or comment on this post (please do), you can click here:

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Lots of love!

• Marta Freedman announces Air Pupshake, a new gifting suite for your dog (Instagram): Air Milkshake, the coolest gifting suite that I still have yet to score an invite to (please!!!) just announced a canine companion suite, Air Pupshake. In the process, Marta Freedman, founder of Air Milkshake and formerly of Dieux (though she seems to have departed on less-than-stellar terms), has seemingly confirmed what I’ve been thinking about for months: Pet care is beauty’s next big frontier. Stick with me here.

  • In a world where wellness is seeping into every crevice of culture, it only makes sense it’d come for our favorite four-legged creatures too. It doesn’t hurt that global pet product sales are expected to total $364 billion in 2025, with projections showing a market value of up to $500 billion by 2030, according to Capital One Shopping Research. Honestly, I’d spend an embarrassing, ungodly amount of money on Rollo’s glam routine, so I get it.

    Over the last three years, we’ve seen a slew of pet care brands masquerading as beauty brands—often coming from beauty industry veterans themselves—taking over the sector and delivering a new breed of elevated offerings for the pooch in your life. There’s Lil Luv Dog, founded by It Girls Cara Santana-Leto and Stephanie Suganami (better known as @Steph_Shep), with its cactus flower-scented dry shampoo infused with jojoba oil and aloe to lock in moisture. Former beauty journalist Noël Duan’s Artemis offers a powder-to-lather dog wash made of nourishing algae, soothing colloidal oatmeal and rebalancing prebiotics. And then there’s WagWell, founded by former beauty exec Will Smolen, with its ahiflower omega supplements that promote healthy joints, skin and coat with a robust blend of plant-based omega fatty acids. Rollo recently got PR from WellTayl, which describes itself as “a first-of-its-kind, four-step routine that applies clean beauty standards and dermatology-level testing to pets.” The Skin Barrier Stick, with its ceramides and shea butter and raspberry seed oil, has actually been great for his dry snout. We also have the soon-to-launch Biche, from beauty editor Alexandra Pauly, which will sell fur conditioner, called Après Oil, dosed with facial-grade skin-care ingredients and gentle fine fragrances.
    At this point, the evidence is overwhelming: We are officially in the era of bowwow beauty. And I kind of love it?

• The FDA has issued a safety communication warning regarding radiofrequency (RF) microneedling (FDA): The FDA recently published a statement “making consumers, patients, and health care providers aware that serious complications have been reported with certain uses of radiofrequency (RF) microneedling devices.” The notice specified that evaluation is ongoing—so there’s no hard-and-fast ruling right now—but it underscored potential risks like burns, scarring, fat loss, disfigurement, and nerve damage, and the importance of seeing a vetted professional.

  

  • To note, RF microneedling goes by many names, including Secret RF, Morpheus8, Genius, Vivace, and Vivace Ultra—Morpheus8 is probably the most popular of the bunch.

    Now, I know the most common reaction to any sort of FDA correspondence is immediate catastrophizing and fear, but these risks are nothing new. Any sort of procedure, even noninvasive, has serious risks. Botox injections could potentially lead to vision problems or loss of bladder control; laser treatments might cause hyperpigmentation or scarring; for god’s sake, we all know Linda Evangelista was deformed from CoolSculpt! I can’t decide whether people genuinely don’t know about these risks or choose to be willfully ignorant. I think the latter—which is fine. Listen, I still get Botox in my jaw despite possibly peeing myself. That being said, I am kind of freaked out by CoolSculpt post-Linda Evangelista. But if I’m thinking rationally, I understand I’m putting myself at the same level of risk in the name of beauty elsewhere.

    So, no, I don’t think you need to cancel your Morpheus8 appointment. Instead, let this be a reminder of the very real risks that come with any sort of face or body procedure. Do your due diligence; find a trusted, well-regarded, licensed provider. Make sure that provider is clear and upfront about those risks. If you get a weird vibe, leave!

• Backed by beauty veterans, start-up Indomo wants to bring acne steroid injections into the home with the ClearPen (WWD): Jack Abraham, co-founder of Hims & Hers, and Cara Davis, former vice president of operations at Starface, have announced their new start-up, Indomo, and its first product, which aims to make corticosteroid acne injections more accessible. Pending FDA approval, the ClearPen will be available via prescription. The tool itself is reusable and designed so that the needle is hidden until injection, during which it will deliver a single dose of corticosteroids. This comes amid a cultural shift in which at-home injections are becoming more commonplace than ever before, thanks to the rise of GLP-1s and fertility treatments. The company plans to kick off the second phase of clinical trials for the shot next year, and says it hopes to tackle more skin conditions like keloids and boils via its ClearPen technology in the future.

  

  • I like this idea in theory, but I have several practical concerns.
    For those unfamiliar, dermatologists will occasionally inject cortisone shots into cystic acne (those painful under-the-skin zits) to rapidly reduce inflammation, swelling, and redness—this technology is not for smaller blemishes like blackheads or whiteheads. And therein lies the first potential issue with the ClearPen. Nonprofessional, at-home skincare enthusiasts tend to be far less gentle on the skin than, say, estheticians or dermatologists. I’m thinking about microneedling in particular—I can’t tell you how many horror stories I’ve heard from people who were too aggressive with the tool.

    Then there’s the prescription situation. I do think this sort of tool should necessitate prescription, but how would one go about getting it? Either they’d have to go to a dermatologist’s office (at which point, they can just inject the pimple for you) or they’d have to reach out to telehealth services. And how would a telehealth office be able to confirm that this particular pimple is right for a cortisol injection? I’m not sure I trust a few iPhone images. On top of that, perhaps someone gets the prescription, injects a cyst, doesn’t see results quick enough, and then reaches out to another doctor for a second prescription. Can that be tracked? What if too much is injected?

    There’s also side effects and risks to consider. My own dermatologist, Dr. Marnie Nussbaum, has turned down my plea for cortisone injections a few times, often saying the risks simply aren’t worth the reward. According to a 2020 study (from one of my favorite acne dermatologists, Dr. Joshua Zeichner), potential adverse events include skin atrophy (the thinning of skin, no bueno), hypopigmentation (lightening of the skin), and capillary dilation. How can a layman determine whether the juice is worth the squeeze? Or in this case, how can a patient tell if a cyst is bad enough to warrant an injection?

    The study raised more concerns for me. While 2.5mg/mL was the most commonly reported concentration used for such injections, it only accounted for 52.5% of all injections. And nearly 25% of injections were below that concentration. Would prescriptions for the ClearPen be standardized? How would prescribers be able to gauge what concentration would best suit a patient’s particular needs? It also noted that only half of all practitioners warn patients of potential adverse events on every occasion. This leaves many unaware of the risks entirely. How does Indomo plan to educate consumers on these possible outcomes?

    Also, acne is most common in teenagers. Is this product for teenagers? We can’t possibly be entrusting angsty, hormonal 16-year-olds with needles, right?

    In many ways, I feel like a huge hypocrite here—I can’t tell you how many times I’ve wished for a cortisone injection on hand. And yeah, I think I could probably do it correctly and safely. But I know far more about beauty and the skin and injections than the average person. And I still know far less than doctors! The ClearPen is exciting technology, but I just can’t see how the company would get around all the hurdles.

It might be October, but we’re firmly in holiday season—at least in the beauty world. That means limited-edition palettes, the cutest travel-sized products, and some seriously great sets. With that in mind, Fresh on the Shelves shall hence forth don the above Santa hat (what is that thing called?), and I’ll be highlighting the holiday offerings you can’t miss. At least until we’re all bored sick of holiday season—I’m thinking early December?

• Sephora Collection 8-Piece Pro Face and Eye Brush Set ($99—before the 30% discount!): This one’s fairly straightforward. It’s a set of eight makeup brushes from Sephora in a black “leatherette” (??? I’m going to assume that’s just a made-up word to get around saying it’s not real leather) case. The set comes with brushes for foundation, concealer, powder, blush, highlighter, eyeshadow, the crease, and brows.

  • If you’re in need of new makeup brushes, or even just curious about them, I cannot suggest this set more—I’m actually surprised it’s still available. Sephora makes shockingly stellar makeup brushes; they’re thoughtful and soft and never shed. And a brush case is a serious game-changer when it comes to travel. With the entire Sephora Collection 30% off, this is just a no-brainer, no further explanation needed.

• Sephora Favorites Holiday Perfume Sampler Set ($98): This set includes 20 sample-size fragrances in an array of families from vanilla to floral to soft musk, all packed away in a cute little makeup bag, along with a voucher redeemable for one full-size bottle of your favorite from the bunch.

  • Not to kiss Sephora’s ass, but the holiday sale started today and it’s not my fault the retailer puts out genuinely good deals. There’s no more efficient way to find your new signature scent than by using one of these sets. I really just think it’s genius! And fun! It’s also a great gift, given how personal scent can be.

• Smashbox X BECCA Under Eye Brightening Corrector ($33): Select beloved products from the now-defunct BECCA have returned under a collaboration with Smashbox. I can’t say I used this product, or even knew about it, when BECCA was around, but boy am I happy it was resurrected. I have incredibly dark circles—to the point that I can’t ever fully conceal them, I just brighten them a bit and hope for the best. I’ve been using the medium shade for the past few weeks, and it makes such a difference I find myself reaching for it on days I don’t even leave the house. I just like the way it makes me look. It’s slightly tacky, which is good in this case, and blends out easily, leaving behind a smooth base for concealer.

Ok that’s all I’ve got for you. Back to my other gig!

Xx

Hi. I’m adjusting to another taper, and it’s not awesome. On Sunday, I had to go to the butcher twice because I forgot half of what I was supposed to get. Yes, I had a list with me. Yesterday, I fumbled just about every aspect of the dinner I tried to make—based off a recipe I’ve used countless times before. I still haven’t found the energy to finish my weekly scheduling and to-do list, which is definitely not great.

Every time I lower my medication, I’m met with three to four days of absolute chaos. A wandering mind, a pit in my stomach, a weighty exhaustion, an inability to sit still. I know it’s only momentary, but I don’t like it.

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Good news! I have officially cut my Adderall dosage in half. I’m terrified to think about the next steps.

This week, I want to talk about weight gain, which is incredibly common when going off of stimulants. I’m not going to give any numbers or specifics, but I am going to talk about weight loss and gain, disordered eating, and body image. If that’s not your thing, totally understand. Feel free to leave this page now; Do what you need to do to protect your peace.

For all of Adderall’s many terrible side effects (anxiety, psychosis, headache, aggression, etc.), there’s one silver lining: loss of appetite. Today we have Ozempic nauseating users into starvation, but not so long ago, Adderall was the appetite suppressant du jour, a favorite among fashion crowds and celebrities alike.

Sure, I sometimes felt physically repulsed by food at certain times of the day, but after two decades on the stuff, I no longer noticed any meaningful effect on my appetite—I didn’t know any different. But as that suppressant whittles down to nothing, my body is reacting in tandem; my wandering mind and my appetite set loose after years on a tight leash. I’m not happy about it.

I don’t think my relationship with my body has ever been particularly unique, and, quite frankly, I don’t think it’s all that important. At the same time, I recognize body image is personal and complicated, and I think context is important.

To keep things short: I spent much of my adolescence feeling defined by my body—tiny and muscular, with gloriously large breasts. I, like most other women I encounter, spent years in the nebulous space that is disordered eating. I gained weight, I lost weight, I found a comfortable middle ground that consisted of thinking about my body as little as possible. I didn’t necessarily like the way I looked, but I didn’t dislike it—at least most of the time.

A few years ago, on the precipice of my engagement and staring down the barrel of a summer marked by several major weddings (followed by my own the next year), I wanted to feel less anxious—not even excited, but perhaps just neutral—when someone pulled out their phone for an impromptu snap. Perhaps I wanted a bit more definition in my arms; a bit less roundness in my face.

I slowly incorporated habits and carefully watched what I ate—at times hovering over the line into obsession territory but never making the move over. I was proud; I lost weight without going insane! Well done.

I didn’t think I’d remain at my wedding size forever. It simply wasn’t a sustainable weight if I wanted to live a full and fun life (and I do). But weight gain is a tough pill to swallow, especially when it feels out of your control. I’m embarrassed to admit that I care. All that hard work for what?

I try not to think about it; I try not to spend too much time agonizing over the scale or picking myself apart in the mirror. But it’s simply a fact: I have gained weight going off of Adderall, and I’ll probably gain more. And despite knowing better, I care.

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I’m writing this in the back of an Uber on the way to celebrate one of my best friend’s weddings. I’m signing the ketubah, which means it’s a big hand weekend for me. On Tuesday evening, I suffered four horrible losses—broken nails, lost in a battle putting the cushion covers back on the banquet after foolishly putting them in the dryer. It was devastating, really.

As a result, I’ve gone with clean, short nails (slightly rounded) in a deep red shade—I’ve been on a natural nail kick post-nuptials (I previously wore gel extensions for the last two-plus years) and this was the first professional manicure I’ve gotten in a while. It confirms I am not great at painting my own nails. But alas! I’ll keep trying. I can’t wait to John Hancock this thing (Andrew, if you’re reading this, I promise I’ll keep my signature tasteful).

I’m going to keep this relatively short because I am prone to car sickness and the fact I’ve made it even this far is somewhat miraculous.

No need for a personal update, given my weekly Adderall Diaries. You all know how I’m doing, which is to say, meh? I guess? Thank you so much for all of the support I’ve received there. It’s been a really hard transition and it’s scary to be vulnerable online, but the personal messages I’ve gotten really do make it feel worth it. To read the entire series, you can upgrade to a paid subscription here:

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In not-enough-juice-for-a-full-headline-breakdown-but-still-interesting news: In Business of Fashion, I saw Grimes’ co-creative director launched a sci-fi inspired beauty brand “with visual elements of sci-fi, gaming and avant-garde fashion.” It’s called Hyrular Beauty, and it immediately gave me deja vu. In May, I covered GODMODE, a beauty brand co-owned by Chloë Grace Moretz and Rina Sawayama, “inspired by creativity of digital artists, fashion designers, and music tastemakers,” and described as “where gaming meets beauty.” Same same, but different—right? Is this the start of a gaming-forward beauty explosion? Or just two very similar ideas? Probably the latter. Still, it makes you think.

And now, without further ado, I give you…..Glossed Over.

• Kylie Cosmetics, hoping to return to its previous glory, is betting big on nostalgia (BoF): Kylie Cosmetics is pulling out all the stops with its latest campaign in celebration of its 10th anniversary. The King Kylie campaign and corresponding collection, which features a range of lip kits, glosses, and eyeshadow palettes, calls back to Jenner’s younger days a decade ago—think blue hair, grills, black lipstick, and all. It’s important to note just how disruptive Kylie Cosmetics was in 2016; it was one of few celebrity beauty brands and utilized the streetwear DTC drop model. For those who don’t remember, just know it was huge and very cool. Since that time, however, Kylie Cosmetics has largely fallen to the wayside, with Jenner selling a majority stake to Coty in 2019.

  

  • In 2015, I turned the bedside table in my freshman-year dorm room into a vanity—I couldn’t fathom the idea of not having a dedicated space to do my makeup. Everyone laughed. It wasn’t cool to love beauty then the way it is today; it wasn’t even the norm. To my peers, it was vapid and aggressive and superficial. All this to say, I was deeply steeped in 2016 Kylie Cosmetics culture. The lip kits were nearly impossible to get your hands on—even if you were on the landing page at exactly noon when they dropped, you weren’t guaranteed a kit. I had three or four and none of them suited me, but oh how I loved them so. A couple years later, I remember wandering around a Connecticut Ulta hunting for the brand’s blushes—a Beauty Cool Girl (I want to say it was or ?) I followed religiously swore by them. Even then, the brand was on the outs; the blushes felt under the radar and niche. It was a real if-you-know-you-know recommendation.

    Those are the only meaningful interactions I remember having with Kylie Cosmetics. The brand kindly sent over a ton of products last year, and they are not bad—at all. Some are actually really great. I’ve only heard good things about the skin tint, and I absolutely devour any beauty tutorial Kylie posts with Stormi. But overall, the brand just hasn’t been able to drum up the popularity it once did. It’s felt, in large part, like an afterthought in the Kardashian-Jenner multiverse—it was but a mere noodle in their throw-spaghetti-at-the-wall-and-see-what-sticks approach to business, slowly sliding down that proverbial wall.
    Perhaps the brand’s lacking cultural relevancy has to do with Jenner herself. There was certainly a time, perhaps between 2019 to 2023, during which she felt largely separated from the brand. With its roots firmly planted in maximalist glam (hello matte hot pink lipstick), Kylie Cosmetics no longer gels with Jenner’s image—at least it didn’t up until recently. She’s largely cleaned up her act since 2016; swapping out BBLs for tasteful boob jobs and lip filler for a Facetune account (very cost effective). Jokes aside, we’ve seen a cultural shift to a more natural beauty aesthetic, and even Jenner isn’t immune to the trends. Plus, with her other ventures to tend to (Khy, Sprinter, two kids, heartthrob-y boyfriend, etc.), it just didn’t seem all that important to her.
    That being said, I appreciate Jenner doubling down on her brand, and the campaign is seriously fun. It’s nostalgic and campy and all over my newsfeed. But is it enough to revive Kylie Cosmetics to its previous glory? I think not. But I love to be proven wrong. I’d love to get my hands on one of those lip kits for my personal beauty memorabilia stash.

• For the first time in 25 years, the U.S. might finally be getting a new sunscreen filter (Allure): As I’ve mentioned many times, the U.S. currently has 16 active sunscreen filters approved by the FDA—only eight of which are actually used in modern formulations. This stands in stark contrast to our counterparts in the European Union and Japan, both of which have more than 30 filters to choose from. And it’s not just about optionality, a lot of these newer filters are more cosmetically elegant and simply more effective than those in the U.S. Finally, it seems we’ll be getting at least one of those new, sexy filters. Enter bemotrizinol, also known as Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT), which stays stable longer and gives better broad-spectrum protection than any sunscreen filter currently approved in the U.S. The BEMT manufacturer has been working to get this filter approved in the U.S. for around 20 years, spending an estimated $20 million in the process. If all goes to plan, that hard work should bear fruit (fruit, in this case, means sunscreen) as early as the latter half of 2026.

  

  • This is as exciting as Christmas to me—and I’ve only had four Christmases before! And I love Christmas!

    The U.S. is notoriously behind on sunscreen innovation, and while the FDA is largely to blame for that, we also have to consider how we regulate sunscreen here versus in other areas. The government deems sunscreens over-the-counter drugs, thus limiting them to the rules, regulations, and rigorous testing and approval processes of the FDA. That’s not a bad thing; that’s actually quite good.

    Consider Australia’s recent sunscreen scandal, in which findings revealed that numerous Australian sunscreens did not provide the claimed level of protection, with some testing as low as SPF 4 (despite SPF 50 labels). Australia categorizes sunscreens as either therapeutic goods or cosmetics, meaning there’s far less government oversight. This likely wouldn’t happen in the U.S. thanks to the FDA’s stringent protocols.
    But those protocols have greatly stymied our sunscreen innovation. In fact, based on research I did for a 2024 Elle article, at least eight new sunscreen filters have been filed and awaiting FDA approval since 2002. What’s the hold up? Pretty much every expert I spoke to—including the author of the Allure piece, cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos—expressed immense frustration over the lacking innovation, while maintaining the stance that sunscreens should remain classified as OTC drugs. So it’s complicated.

    Onto BEMT. Many of us, especially those hoarding foreign sunscreen formulas, are already familiar with the filter. It’s found in La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios line of sunscreens (the ones available in the EU, not in America), as well as the original, Japanese version of Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence Sunscreen. Given both formulas are quite popular among sunscreen aficionados, BEMT is a welcome addition to the U.S’s decidedly meh lineup of filters.

    Like I said, I am absolutely stoked for this new filter, but let’s also keep in mind the seven other sunscreen filters that have been patiently awaiting FDA approval for the last 20-something years. Hopefully, BEMT’s approval is a sign of what’s to come. Better filters mean better protection and better skin-feel which means better sunscreens which means increased sunscreen use. God, this gets me jazzed.

It might be October, but we’re firmly in holiday season—at least in the beauty world. That means limited-edition palettes, the cutest travel-sized products, and some seriously great sets. With that in mind, Fresh on the Shelves shall hence forth don the above Santa hat (what is that thing called?), and I’ll be highlighting the holiday offerings you can’t miss. At least until we’re all bored sick of holiday season—I’m thinking early December?

• Hourglass Ambient Lighting Edit Unlock Palette ($94): Available now at Sephora.com, Ulta.com, and Hourglass.com, Hourglass’ limited-edition, full-face palettes are back for yet another year, this time featuring art by tattooist Sasha Unisex. Each palette includes a selection of blushes, highlighters, bronzers, and finishing powders, all in Hourglass’ signature Ambient Lighting formula to give skin a lit-from-within glow. There are four palettes this year: the deer, fox, swan, and horse.

  • I know what you’re thinking—$94 for a six-pan palette is highway robbery. And perhaps it would be from other brands, but I implore you to go to your local Sephora and try these out in person. The quality speaks for itself. These powders impart the perfect glow—not glitter, not shimmer, and certainly not shine. Just a heavenly glow, like the Instagram filter of your dreams. Not only can you do a nearly full face of makeup with a single palette, the colors are so easy and flattering that you can quite literally take a big fluffy brush, swirl it through all six shades and dust across your cheeks for an instant lewk. It’s fool-proof! I’ve collected eight of the limited-edition palettes over the years, and I do not travel without at least one in tow.

• Make Up For Ever Mini Artist Color Lip Pencils ($39): Available now at Sephora.com and Makeupforever.com, this five-piece set features mini sizes of Make Up For Ever’s beloved Artist Color Pencils in the most popular lip liner shades: 506 Endless Cacao, 600 Anywhere Caffeine, 606 Wherever Walnut, 607 Limitless Brown, and 808 Boundless Berry.

  • First off, this is an incredible deal. A full-size Artist Color Pencil will cost you $25 a pop, and I’m willing to bet 95% of people never even make it halfway through a pencil before losing either it or interest. These mini ones are the perfect size—throw one in your purse, one in your travel makeup bag, one in your work tote, and then, I don’t know, whatever you want with the other two. The shades can all double as eyeliner in a pinch (yay for multi-use products), and the range spans pretty much any lip liner shade you could need (beyond, like, a bold red or fuchsia). I still have my set from last year and despite all shades being in heavy rotation, I’ve yet to make a real dent in any of them.

• Prada Paradoxe Intense Eau de Parfum ($185): “Thank you for blessing my car with your beautiful scent today.” That is a direct quote from my Uber driver last week—I know because I wrote it down. The confidence and ego trip that comes from a scent compliment is virtually unmatched, and now I can’t stop wearing this perfume. This is not a subtle fragrance. It’s a punchy floral base with amber and woods-y notes, making for a deeply feminine eau de parfum that’s simultaneously intense and delicate (hello, every woman ever). It has impressive longevity and leaves you in a dreamy warm haze for hours.

Okay, well I think if I try to look at my laptop for any longer I’ll throw up. Please like this post, share it with a friend, comment—it really does help a lot!

Talk soon. Xx

I tend to do things the hardest way possible, and tapering off of Adderall is no exception. For some reason, I’ve decided this is the perfect time to add more to my already-full plate—namely, another part-time job.

To review, that’s two full-time jobs, a part-time gig, trying to pump out daily content on Tiktok, growing my Substack, and, oh yeah, that book I want to write. There’s also just being a human being, which is a lot of work. And then there’s fighting off depression and anxiety—and with my sweet, tortured mind, it’s close to a part-time job.

This is something I call the Plight of the Overly Ambitious, and it affects a wide range of people—in particular, anyone who was called a “pleasure to have in class” in elementary school, those with double majors in college, people who decide to become exercise instructors in addition to their corporate jobs, and most Northwestern alumni.

Before the great tapering of 2025, I wore my POA (Plight of the Overly Ambitious, duh) with pride. All I needed to do was really hunker down once or twice or five times a week with 20 milligrams of Adderall and a lengthy to-do list.

Today, I’m faced with a grim reality: I simply cannot do as much as I used to. I am not superwoman; I was just on speed. I am, unfortunately, merely human.

I care about too much, too hard. It’s one of POA’s core symptoms.

And now I’m in a place where I simply cannot produce work at the speed I am used to. I used to be able to sit in my chair for hours on end, using bathroom breaks as treats if I finished a particular set of tasks (this is insane, I know). Now I’m lucky if I can remember everything I need to do in a given day, let alone actually do it. I feel weak. I am failing as the POA poster child.

I don’t know how to handle the feeling that perhaps I am not as smart or productive as I thought I was. That is the thought that haunts me lately; the idea that cuts to the core. It makes me sad. Why? I’m not sure.

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I’m trying to get comfortable with being unsatisfied—feeling groggy at 2 pm on a Sunday, leaving to-do lists unfinished, ignoring the persistent nagging feeling I’m forgetting something, simply not knowing everything. I don’t like it.

In that spirit, here’s my wildly unsatisfying update for the week: I don’t know how I’m feeling.

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Happy Life of a Showgirl day to all those who celebrate! I, for one, have been absolutely thrilled to have something to take my mind off of myself.

I hate to insert myself into Taylor Swift discourse, but I rarely have a thought to keep to myself so I’ll quickly give my two cents on the album: Taylor Swift’s ability to write 30-something heart-wrenching, lyrically dense songs and then turn around and serve us 13 succinct, light-hearted bangers is exactly what makes her so great. Not everything needs to be complicated or serious; it can’t be. That being said, it reminds me of Midnights in the sense that she’s once again created a chasm between the marketing around the album and the album itself, which is frankly just confusing. But also, it’s been less than 24 hours with this music, let’s give it some time.

Now, back to me. I’ve not-so-quietly been going through it the last month amid my whole Adderall journey. You can read all about it with a paid subscription:

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Listen, I’ll survive; things aren’t that bad. But I’m being forced to sit with a lot of uncomfortable feelings, and it’s bumming me out. I am highly ambitious and, at least usually, quite confident in my abilities. Lately, that hasn’t necessarily been the case. It makes me sad, and being sad makes me anxious that I’ll spiral into depressive episode, which makes me sadder and, in turn, more anxious and so on until I end up admitting defeat and realize I wasted another night in my head instead of working or at the very least relaxing. Complaining helps.

So does today’s weather. There’s a certain relief that comes with the first whiffs of fall; finally, a moment of respite after months of unrelenting heat. And yet it’s over in a flash, only ever just a moment before we’re plunged back into the depths of mid-afternoon darkness and frostbitten chill. Autumn is special; fleeting and finite and oddly magical, light jackets abound.

Over in beauty world, we have officially entered holiday season. That means lots of events and emails and products—more than the usual a lot. With that in mind, I’ve been thinking about doing some sort of a giveaway on here. I appreciate you all being here, and I’d love to share the beauty wealth! Watch this space.

Before we get into it, I want to thank you all again for all the positive feedback I’ve gotten on the Adderall Diaries. A lot of you have reached out to me privately, which I so appreciate. Feel free to also share those things, I don’t know, in a more public forum via commenting, liking, and/or sharing any work that resonates with you. It goes a really long way.

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• Gen-Z beauty brands are attempting to attract an older audience—is it the right move? (BoF): As elder Gen Z-ers near 30 (hi), brands that captured once the generation’s hearts with bold designs and novel textures (think Byoma, Bubble, and Starface) are trying to keep up with the cohort and age gracefully. The very traits that initially sold these brands to younger fans—bright, playful packaging; interesting sensorial experiences; simple formulations; and easy-to-understand language—are turning out to be their biggest hurdles. After all, consumers don’t exactly associate meaningful skincare results with cheerful messaging and neon bottles. The three brands are taking three different approaches to maintaining—and expanding—their fan bases. The recently acquired Byoma is now available in UK premium beauty retailer Space NK, elevating the brand from its humble drugstore beginnings. Meanwhile, Starface is hoping to move away from its hero pimple patches, instead pushing its lip balms as the new it item in an attempt to cater to those of all ages, rather than just the acne-ladden youth. Finally, Bubble signed 39-year-old Leighton Meester on as its first brand ambassador, citing research that she resonates with ages 13 to 40, and has a general association with quality, premium goods (no doubt thanks to her iconic Gossip Girl run as Blair Waldorf). But as these brands try to prove that affordable prices and playful packaging can still offer meaningful, serious skincare results for older audiences, they run the risk of losing the youth appeal that propelled them in the first place.

  

  • Can anyone, or any one brand, ever really appeal to everyone? In many ways, it feels like a misguided mission—as my beloved Taylor Swift says, “A friend to all is a friend to none.” In attempting to do so, these brands risk abandoning their hard-earned fanbases. Just look at Glossier: The brand built for Millennials lost much of its cachet chasing Gen Z, finding itself now in a strange no man’s land catering to everyone and no one, all at once.
    Bubble’s tactic—giving the brand a face (a 39-year-old face at that)—seems the most dangerous to me. It’s an incredibly pointed move, spelling out its cross-generational ambitions for all to see. And I can’t help but question the research Bubble cited; does anyone below the age of, say, 20 actually know who Leighton Meester is? I don’t buy it. This whole thing feels like an attempt at rewriting the very narrative Bubble wrote for itself. I actually have no issue with the narrative of the campaign itself—that serious skincare doesn’t have to be seriously boring—but I fear the Meester choice was an ill-fated one.
    At least Byoma and Starface are playing it somewhat safer with their attempts at world domination. Enter a new storefront, sure! Hone in on a new hero product, why not? Still, I can’t help but wonder why these brands are so unwilling to remain in that tween/teen category. It’s a position a lot of other brands are vying for, and I think it actually fills a very important need. I would’ve been all over these bold, fun beauty brands 15 or so years ago. I quite like some of their products even today! All three brands offer solid, simple formulas that really could work for anyone. Why not trust in their product a bit more? Why didn’t the brands consider these ambitions earlier on? I guess the grass is always greener on the other side. Or perhaps it’s just capitalistic greed rearing its ugly head yet again.

• Three celebrity beauty brands—Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty, Gwyneth Paltrow’s Good.Clean.Goop, and SKKN by Kim—have shuttered in the last few months (Beauty Independent, Beauty Independent, Global Cosmetics News): This past March, Kim Kardashian’s SKIMS acquired SKKN by Kim, and this past month, the brand announced it would officially be shutting down just three years after its 2022 debut. The move wasn’t exactly shocking—the brand failed to make any meaningful impact and it’s believed that Kardashian will re-launch her beauty brand a third time (the first being KKW Beauty) under the SKIMS portfolio. Last week, Drew Barrymore’s makeup brand Flower Beauty officially announced it’d be closing operations after 13 years. Again, this wasn’t much of a surprise given Flower Beauty’s social media accounts have been inactive for nearly a year. The mass makeup line was co-owned by beauty incubator Maesa, which is reportedly pivoting away from makeup to focus on its more-successful brands in skincare, fragrance, haircare, and body (Kristen Ess Hair, Being Frenshe, Hairitage, Fine’ry, etc.). Finally, Gwyneth Paltrow’s Good.Clean.Goop, her attempt at an affordable beauty-and-wellness line, quietly folded after two years at Target.

  

  • Let’s start with the most recent news, which, yet a third time, comes as little surprise given Paltrow has likely never step foot inside a Target. With Goop’s—and Paltrow’s—appeal sitting squarely in the aspirational box, Good.Clean.Goop felt like a shoddy attempt at pandering to the poor, sad masses. After all, Goop already had a (seemingly successful) pre-existing beauty line that charges $150 for a 1-ounce serum. Was the GCG lineup simply filled with Goop rejects; basic scrubs and oils that weren’t up to Paltrow’s snuff? A mass line simply doesn’t jive with Paltrow’s carefully curated, delightfully out-of-touch personal brand. It was an obvious cash grab from a brand that just last year included a $4,000 sauna and $600 caviar bowl (caviar sold separately) on its gift guide. That is what we come to Goop and my dear, beloved Gwyn for, not a $19.99 toner.
    As for Barrymore’s Flower Beauty, it closes with a far more impressive track record. That said, the brand as a whole was fairly unimpressive; no real product standouts or compelling innovation. But it did exist for 13 years, and that’s something. I humbly offer Flower Beauty a participation ribbon. You did it! Good job!
    Finally, we come to SKKN by Kim, a brand doomed from the moment Kardashian proudly announced that the nine-step system was directly inspired by her own skincare routine. Note she did not say she uses the SKKN by Kim lineup nor did she mention what she actually uses. It felt…strange. This was followed by a video in which Kardashian pretends demo the products. Unfortunately, no one on her team clocked the obvious difference between Kardashian’s short pink nails and the hand model’s long nude ones (see below). All this to say, Kardashian’s indifference about the brand was abundantly clear from the start. The brand also launched a few makeup items at some point, to little fanfare. In contrast to GCG and Flower Beauty, there seems to be plans to resurrect Kardashian’s beauty line yet a third time under the SKIMS portfolio—which is probably a smart move. But at this point, I can’t help but ask why. Why do we need a Kim Kardashian beauty line? Does anyone care?

    So, what does this all mean for the future of celebrity beauty brands? Probably not much. All three brands were underwhelming and mediocre at best. Perhaps others will think twice before phoning it in on a half-assed beauty line, but rest assured there are still several celebrity beauty brands out there with bored, unconcerned founders.

    

• Salt & Stone X Aritzia Deodorant ($20); Body Wash ($36); and Body Mist ($45): Aritzia enters the self-care category with a three-product, limited edition collaboration with Salt & Stone, all available now on both aritzia.com and saltandstone.com. There’s an aluminum-free deodorant, aromatic gel body cleanser, and “nutrient-rich” body mist (please note the quotation marks). All feature a clean, sparkling Lily & Yuzu scent, with notes of (shocking!) lily and yuzu, plus bergamot, amber, jasmine, and matcha. There will be an additional product added to the lineup later this year, though I can’t say more at the moment.

  • I’m sniffing all three products as I type this, and the first thing I notice is a subtle difference in scent between each format—to be fair, that’s probably because they are, in fact, different products and thus project notes differently. Lily & Yuzu smells exactly as you’d imagine; like an Aritzia store. That is to say, it smells clean and slightly pointed; elevated and easy. I give the aluminum-free deodorant a big eye roll—we’ve pretty conclusively proven that aluminum in deodorant is not going to give you cancer, and most people need it to, respectfully, not stink. I’m pretty over the body mist category, though this is a quite nice one at that. And I definitely will be adding the body wash to my shower! But did Aritzia really need to make a play at the beauty space? No.

• Rhode The Peptide Eye Prep Set ($47 for 12 pairs; $25 for 6 pairs): Available October 9 at rhodeskin.com and online and in-store at Sephora on the 14th, it’s only a matter of time before Rhode’s under-eye masks take over your Instagram feed. The masks feature yet-another peptide-infused formula, alongside caffeine, sodium PCA, and glycerin to cool, tighten, and de-puff under-eyes. They will be available in two designs: Rhode’s signature “r” and the classic rhode print logo.

  • First Summer Fridays, now Rhode. Given both brands’ (occasional) focus on sustainability, I’m surprised to see them launching single-use eye masks. It just feels like low-hanging fruit; uninventive and easy. They’re certainly an easy play for organic social—I have these on the way and you’re kidding yourself if you think I won’t be posing up a storm in them. I don’t find eye masks to be a particularly exciting or interesting product category—I’ve yet to find one that truly stands out from the bunch—but, again, I think this is a move more about image than innovation. Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

• Haus Labs Precision Sculpt Shaping Balm ($30): I appreciate a product that is intentionally different than others in the category. I appreciate thoughtful details and purposeful choices. All of that is present in this contour stick. The nine shades (which is a very solid offering for a contour product) are all fairly cool-toned, or at the very least neutral—none of that dreaded orange in sight. The color range is thoughtful and flexible; I could use two or three different shades depending on what I’m going for. The stick itself is thinner and smaller than most other contour sticks on the market, meant for precise, mistake-proof application. There’s also the beautiful formula to consider, gloriously blendable and long-wearing. It’s yet another notch on Haus Labs’ belt of impeccable complexion products.

Okay, I’ve got to wrap up my work so I can head to a 6:15 pm showing of The Official Release Part of a Showgirl, alongside an audience of what I can only assume will be largely under 16 years old. You’ll hear from me soon with another Adderall Diaries.

Thanks for being here!

Xx

I write to you from the depths of a Sunday haze. While they require far less focus than the work week, weekends have been the hardest part of the journey thus far. Probably—definitely—because I take about a fifth of my weekday dosage. I spend most of my weekends eating (so much eating) and napping intermittently on the couch. It’s almost like I’m high, which is weird given the lack of drugs in my system.

Anyway, I fear this one might be a tad incoherent and ramble-y. Bear with me please. The only reason I can even try writing this right now is because I took an extra dose. Which still puts me at less than half of my weekday milligrams. I just couldn’t handle the possibility of repeating last Sunday—wake up at 11 am, stumble to the butcher, empty the dishwasher, take three naps, and go to bed at 9 pm. This morning, I woke up at 9 am, sucked back a matcha, fed the dog, and fell back asleep until 12:30 pm before starting my day. So I guess that’s better. And I even crossed a few things off my to-do list! Music to my neurotic ears.

Here’s the good news: Things got a bit better this week. By Wednesday, I felt like I was starting to see the light again. Or maybe I just got used to things feeling shitty.

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I’ve spent most of this week trying to stop thinking. I have a horrible habit of thinking myself to death—I can take the simplest of situations and spiral them wildly out of control.

I couldn’t even bring myself to finish this week’s Beauty News to Know; I’m worried my meandering paragraphs and run-on sentences don’t make sense. I can’t tell if my arguments are sound. So I figured I’d just send this out in its place this week.

Okay, a quick step back. Every day, I take two or three doses of short-acting Adderall. I’m hesitant to share particular numbers, but I take the largest dose in the morning when I wake up. I take a second dose, 10 milligrams less than the first, at lunch. Depending on how much work I have left to do that night, I’ll take a third dose, 20 milligrams less than the first, around four or five in the afternoon if need be.

For the last week, I’ve been taking 10 milligrams less than my usual morning dose. The re-ups have remained the same. On the weekends, I’m trying to take only a morning dose, at 20 milligrams less than my usual. Though I will sometimes take a second dose on Sundays if I need to get work done. All this to say, I’m taking small, incremental baby steps.

And yet my brain seems to think I’ve quit cold turkey. My thoughts are relentless.

I’ve found the best way to explain this weird torture cycle of thoughts is with one particular example: The rabbit hole I inevitably fall down any time I get sick. Am I actually not feeling well or am I just pretending I don’t feel well for attention? How do I know if I’m actually sick or not? Am I being lazy? Does everyone think I’m lying about being sick? I don’t think I’m lying, but what if I am subconsciously? How would I be able to tell if I’m lying about being sick? Can I successfully deceive myself? When other people feel like this, do they consider themselves sick?

It’s ridiculous, I know. All this to say, I fear the knowledge that I’m tapering off of Adderall is making me struggle with it more. I just can’t stop thinking about it. And spiraling. And running through hypotheticals. And doing it all over again.

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Growing up, I thought cranberry juice had pulp. Stick with me here for a second. Every morning before school, I was served a glass of cranberry juice and told to finish it whole. It wouldn’t have been an issue if it weren’t for those weird white balls gathered at the bottom of the glass. They tasted bitter, and why weren’t they stringy like the pulp in orange juice? It didn’t take me long to catch my mom emptying a pill capsule into my glass—that’s not how pulp works. And why did the pill bottle have my name on it?

Given I told most of my first-grade class I was taking Adderall that day, I don’t blame my mother for trying to hide it from me. My family likes to joke I put the H in ADHD. It goes far beyond the run-of-the-mill inattentiveness. I struggled to read—there were too many words on a given page for me to consider just one. I regularly interrupted and blurted out answers in class (okay, I still interrupt a lot but I’m working on it). I was forgetful and restless and impulsive; I struggled to finish tasks and get along with my classmates. The Adderall quieted my brain and gave me control.

That’s not to say the drug was all good. I’d get terrible headaches from the come-downs. I remember one brand (maybe it was Concerta or Ritalin) made me so deeply sad, it drove me to pulling out my eyelashes. Another dampened my personality to the point that I couldn’t handle normal conversations in the lunchroom, instead hiding in the library and working through the period.

I used to take breaks—weekends, vacations, and summers off were crucial, but increasingly difficult to manage. The off-days dwindled, slowly and then all at once, until there weren’t any at all. I don’t remember the first time I took a stimulant, and I can’t remember the last time I didn’t.

That’s about to change.

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I, for one, am a total September junkie. That start-of-the-school-year feeling is inescapable—I can smell it in the air—and there’s nothing I love more than a clean slate, a fresh notebook, and a light jacket. It’s better than New Years.

But in my line of work, September brings with it a particular brand of horror. Not the toilet-paper-stuck-on-your-shoe kind (or the period-leaking-onto-your-chair-in-math-class kind, which I unfortunately experienced in seventh grade). It’s New York Fashion Week, baby.

I, for one, am not a fan. I can barely get dressed without my mom’s help, and I’m in sweatpants 75% of the time. Being around the fashion crowd makes me feel inferior, poorly dressed, and ridiculously short. So I try to skip most of it.

But I’m merely human, and some of the cooler invitations continue to lure me in year after year despite better judgement. Plus, it seems like there are more beauty-centric fashion week events than ever. Suddenly, I’m begging my mother for an emergency shopping session this weekend, attending three back-to-back-to-back masterclasses, and trying to figure out how I’m possibly making it to an 8 p.m. party on a Sunday. Champagne problems, I know.

On another note, I want to earnestly thank everyone who liked, shared, or messaged me about the previous Beauty News to Know. I’m so happy you liked it! Getting that sort of feedback really does fuel my work and make me feel all warm and bubbly. So let this be a reminder to share any nice thoughts you have inside your little heads (about me specifically, but also anyone else).

With that, I’m going to shut up and get straight into the headlines.

• The European Union didn’t ban gel nail polish—just an ingredient in some gel nail polishes (Allure): This week, the EU announced a ban on gel polishes containing one specific ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), classifying it as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction.” To be incredibly clear: The EU did not ban gel nail polishes and manicures themselves, just any that contain TPO. Effective immediately, it is now illegal to sell gel polishes with TPO or use them in salons across the EU. This comes after the EU first identified TPO as a potential substance of concern in spring 2024, following toxicity data from animal-feeding studies.

  

  • You would not believe the number of concerned texts and DMs I got from middle-aged women about this. I want to really break down what’s going on here, because, I understand why people are concerned. I mean, look at the headlines: Gel Nail Polish on Sale in US Banned in Europe; Why Gel Nail Polish Is Now Banned in Europe—But Not the US; This Common Gel Nail Polish Ingredient Just Got Banned in Europe for Being Potentially Toxic to Humans.
    
    Unfortunately, this is fairly similar to the FDA sunscreen debacle we discussed last time. Headlines only tell part of the story. Specifically, the scariest, most click-worthy, guaranteed-to-hook-you part of the story. The problems come when that’s all we read. So let’s dive into what’s actually going on.

    
    This decision was based on studies in which animals ingested TPO in high concentrations. I want to really break down that statement. The studies observed animals, not humans. In these studies, TPO was ingested—in some cases, quite literally injected into the bloodstream—not applied topically. And that TPO was ingested in high concentrations, specifically higher than what is found in gel nail polishes. As writer Marci Robin smartly puts it, “In this case, the studies show something closer to what would happen if you enjoyed your gel nail polish as a nightly digestif, not what the effects of bi-weekly manicures would be.”

    
    In other words, this decision was made without considering how people actually use gel nail polish. And we use gel polish topically on the nail, which is made of densely packed keratin and thus very hard to penetrate. Not to mention the fact that once the polish is cured under a UV light, the TPO is locked into a solid state and deactivates (so even the nail biters are safe). That’s like deeming water toxic because if enough is injected into a rat, it’ll die. Maybe I’m being a little dramatic with that comparison, but I honestly don’t think I am!

    
    In essence, the EU is taking an extra-cautious stance on TPO—which is in line with its approach to ingredient regulation at large. It explains why the EU has banned over 1,300 cosmetic ingredients to the U.S.’s 11 (though it’s worth noting the U.S. tends to focus more on ingredient-use level guidelines instead of outright bans). I’m not saying our regulations here are superior; I’m just showing a pattern.

    
    So if you’re asking me, there’s no reason to avoid TPO in gel nail polishes. If anything, I’d be more concerned about the potential damage from those UV lights (just slap some SPF on your hands, you’re fine).
    
    For those who remain concerned after my level-headed, research-backed, thoughtful explanation (which is annoying but whatever), there are tons of gel polish options without TPO. I know this because every single one of those brands emailed me this week. Again, definitely not necessary, but here are some TPO-free options: Any of these from Après, OPI’s Intelli-Gel collection, Manicurist’s Green Flash line, and Dazzle Dry (technically not gel but rather a long-lasting alternative).

• The top beauty products and brands in the last quarter revealed (Puck): Based on unreleased numbers from market research firm YipitData (pulled from some 11 million U.S. beauty customers in Q2), writer Sarah Shapiro shared a ranking of the top-10 beauty brands and beauty products in the previous quarter. To be clear, this data is based on sales revenue—which is the amount of income generated from a given brand or product before any expenses are deducted. That does not take the number of products sold into account; just the amount of money earned. Not much to explain other than the list itself, which, in an effort to avoid any claims of plagiarism, I’ve recreated below, using the data Puck published:

  

  • I thought it might be fun for us (me) to break this down and discuss what it means—especially because this gives us a better look at the state of the industry than any individual piece of news ever could.
    
    Again, I want to reiterate that this list is based on sales revenue, which I think explains why Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Valentino made the list. Those luxury prices really add up. Compare YSL’s Make Me Blush Blurring Powder Blush to Tower28’s GetSet Blur + Set Matte Powder Blush. Both launched in the first quarter of 2025, but the former costs more than two times the price of the latter, at $46 and $22, respectively. In order to match YSL’s blushes in sales revenue, Tower28 would have to sell more than double however-many blushes YSL managed to sell. Continue that across an entire brand’s offerings, and the numbers quickly make sense.
    
    With that in mind, two key takeaways jump out at me: Huge heritage brands reign supreme, but new innovative, breakout products can still make a mark.

    
    Heritage brands have three main factors on their side: reputation, sheer distribution, and breadth of offerings. Unless you’re pumping out products at an E.l.f.-like speed, there’s simply no way to match brands that have had decades of time to amass endless shades of endless products. And even then, the cost factor creeps in again.
    
    Let’s go back to the YSL versus Tower28 example. E.l.f.’s Primer-Infused Matte Blush, which launched in March 2024, costs $8, meaning it’d have to sell nearly six times the number of blushes YSL sells just to match it in terms of product revenue. Sorry for all the math; I know you come here for lip gloss not equations. But I think the point is important to drill home—it’s why these pricey brands are dominating the list.

    
    And just a note: I consider Clinique, Lancôme, and Estée Lauder to be heritage brands—I’d even go so far as to say MAC is one too (in a very different way than the rest, but still). Dior, Chanel, YSL, and Valentino are what I’d call ultra-prestige, designer heritage. The cachet that comes with a designer name really cannot be overstated. You might not be able to afford a Chanel purse, but a lipstick? Suddenly, $50 for the Chanel name seems like a steal.
    
    On the flip side, breakout products have something heritage brands can rarely get right: the power of social media and virality. Summer Fridays’s number-one spot proves just how far that can take a brand. Think about how many $24 lip balms it takes to match the sales dollars from a single $599 Dyson Airwrap ID! For the record, it’s just under 25 lip balms. Yeah, I can write and do mental math.

    
    And we can’t ignore the fact that a limited-edition flavor of the lip balm also made the list—though its second “limited-edition” release has been available for seven months, so I’m not sure how limited it really is. Given the shade is making that much money, I see why the brand might keep it as a mainstay.
    
    Perhaps even more impressive than Summer Fridays’s number-one product spot is Sol de Janeiro’s listing on the brand side. It’s not just a win for newer, more social-media savvy brands, but also one for body care, positioning it as a legitimate contender within the beauty industry. That’s a lot of Bum Bum Creams.
    
    Some other notable takeaways include the enduring prevalence of legacy fragrances, with four making the product list. Even just from a reputation standpoint that makes sense. There’s something aspirational—and undeniably iconic—about a Chanel Coco Mademoiselle that other prestige fragrance brands, like Parfums de Marly or Le Labo, will simply never be able to reach.

    
    Sephora Collection being on the list is interesting. Not sure I have any real insights to draw from that. I guess don’t write off the in-house brands.
    
    I’d venture to say the Dyson Airwrap made the list thanks to its hefty price tag. Both the One/Size by Patrick Starrr and Urban Decay Setting Sprays speak, again, to the power of social media, particularly the former, given Starrr’s YouTube roots.

    
    And I’ll level with you: I have absolutely no clue what on earth Maëlys Get-Dreamy Overnight Toning Body Whip is doing here. I guess every data set needs an outlier. I think that’s what my teacher said in AP Statistics, right?

• Beekman 1802 Milk Therapy Peptide Shampoo and Conditioner ($32 each, or $54 for the set): Beekman 1802 enters into haircare with a three-product Milk Therapy lineup (I only listed two above, mostly to give my tired little fingers a break from typing). The shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in treatment all feature formulas powered by goat milk, hydrolyzed collagen, and a Brazilian peptide bond. The clinical testing results and claims are fairly impressive—color protection that lasts through 20 washes, reduced breakage by 71%, and increasing shine two-fold with just one use. We’ve heard a lot about the skinification of hair over the last however-many years (three? four?), but I didn’t think it meant actual skincare brands getting into haircare. There’s a lot to love about Beekman 1802—the cute goat mascot, the actual goat farm (which, mark my words, I will visit one day), the focus on kindness. My one gripe with the brand, and unfortunately it’s a huge one, is I’ve yet to love any of its products. That’s not to say I hate, or even dislike, any products. I just haven’t found anything I love from the brand yet. I remain ready and willing should that product come about.

• Farmacy Beauty Honey Cloud Lightweight Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($48): Available now on farmacybeauty.com, September 16 on sephora.com, and September 21 at ulta.com, Farmacy Beauty expands its Honey Cloud collection with the Lightweight Barrier Repair Moisturizer. The fragrance-free formula features Hawaiian white honey, PGA peptides, ectoin, hyaluronic acid, chamomile, and upcycled calendula (not exactly sure what “upcycled” means in this context) to soothe, calm, and reduce redness. Respectfully, I couldn’t tell you the last time I thought about Farmacy Beauty. Do any of you regularly or even occasionally use any of its products? I remember loving the brand in 2019, but I feel like it’s stayed frozen in time since. It’s got the exact same schtick it did back then, and the exact same hero product—admittedly, that Green Clean Cleansing Balm was very good from what I remember, but six years later, I do think there should be at least one more notable offering.

• m.ph by Mary Phillips Underpainting Palette ($64): I regret to inform you that this overpriced product is, in fact, very very good. And I really am sorry I have to say this, because despite loving the product, I have a few points of contention. Let’s discuss those first. First off, there are three shades available. Sure, this sort of palette allows for a lot of stretch within each color family and Phillips has said there’s already an expansion on the horizon, but I don’t understand how a makeup artist-led brand can launch a face product with a three-color shade range. That’s kind of abysmal, guys! My second concern is the fact that this frames underpainting as if it were created by Mary Phillips, despite being a technique firmly rooted in drag culture. I understand she popularized it online, but I just feel a little weird about the lack of acknowledgement. Both factors leave an odd taste in my mouth. All this to say, it must be something really special for me to give it the MVP stamp of approval. And it is! I think the magic of this product is how gloriously easy it is; I find myself reaching for it constantly, whether I’m going full glam or keeping things natural (okay, natural-ish). The creams themselves are deliciously creamy; the contour shades are actually cool-toned; and the formula is incredibly forgiving. I want to give Phillips credit where credit is due; she’s made a great palette and done an amazing job educating consumers on how to use it. I have to admit, the corresponding Underpainting Dual-Ended Brush ($38) is perhaps just as stellar as the palette itself—so much so that I really do recommend buying the two together. It’s uniquely shaped and makes using the experience that much more seamless.

Unfortunately, I have a hot date with my laptop tonight answering emails and editing a story. I do, however, have a beautiful steak marinating in the fridge. So that’s exciting. Brandon and I have taken to Steak Fridays, in which we, you guessed it, eat steak on a Friday. No complaints on my end! That said, I hope you all have sexier Friday night plans.

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Please share any thoughts in the comments below or in my DMs or texts or email inbox or actual mailbox if you feel so inclined. Talk soon!

Xx

I know what you’re thinking: What is Dani doing in my inbox on a Glossed Over off week? I’m here because I care about you, dear reader, and I wanted to share some great Labor Day weekend sales I stumbled upon.

No lengthy updates, no rants about sunscreen misinformation—just good old deals and steals. For once, I’m keeping things simple. Oh, and I’m going to keep this free because I’m feeling generous. You’re welcome!

Let’s get into it.

Dedcool

The Deal: 20% off sitewide, no code needed

• Xtra Milk Fragrance ($72, usually $90): This falls under the category of the ever-popular universal musk/skin scent/you-but-better fragrance (think Glossier You, Missing Person, etc.). The entire Milk line is top notch, though I prefer Xtra Milk’s amplified approach—otherwise the soft scent is just too subtle for my taste. It has notes of bergamot, white musk, and amber, and smells clean, fresh, and comfortable.

• Mochi Milk Fragrance ($72, usually $90): The latest to the Milk lineup, this is a decidedly decadent twist on the classic. It infuses notes of marshmallow, sweet rice milk, vanilla bean, peach nectar, and jasmine petals into the amber-white musk base. It’s sweet but not saccharine—fluffy and yummy while maintaining a lightness to it.

• Room + Linen Spray in 01 “Taunt” ($32, usually $40): A really easy way to make things feel fancier than usual. The scent profile is fairly similar to Milk with bergamot and amber, but adds in notes of vanilla, florals, cassis, and fresh dew for a fragrance that just smells...clean and good. I like spritzing it on my linens.

• BYO Fragrance Duo ($96, usually $120): I’d strongly suggest taking advantage of this deal. I keep travel sizes of all my favorite fragrances—perfect for on-the-go touchups and, obviously, travel.

MAC Cosmetics

The Deal: 30% off sitewide, no code needed

• Connect in Color Eye Shadow Palette in Unfiltered Nudes ($39.20, usually $56): My lifelong love for beauty is firmly rooted in MAC lip glasses and eyeshadows, and this 12-pan palette takes me right back to those days swatching shades in the Westchester Mall. It’s a tried-and-true classic nude eyeshadow lineup, but with MAC’s exemplary formulas and pitch-perfect shades. There’s a great mix of matte, frosted, metallic, and shimmer finishes, and the inside mirror makes it ideal for travel.

• Hyper Real Serumizer Skin Balancing Hydration Serum ($45.50, usually $65): Nothing complicated here, just a great hydrating serum for under makeup. It leaves the skin radiant and dewy without looking oily or shiny.

• Eye Kohl Eyeliner in Teddy and Costa Riche ($16.50, usually $24): Two staple brown eyeliners every makeup lover should have in their collection. Costa Riche is a matte, rich coffee-bean brown, while Teddy is a deep, intense bronze shade with a pearl finish.

• Glow Play Blush ($23.80, usually $34): These blushes have the exact texture of the now-discontinued Maybelline Dream Bouncy Blushes—a cushion-y, lightweight feel that’s gloriously, well, bouncy. These offer sheer-to-medium, buildable coverage that’s subtly blurring and looks like a natural flush to the face. The shade Blush, Please is my perfect your-skin-but-better blush.

Necessaire

The Deal: 20% off sitewide, no code needed

• The 500 Ml Body Wash in Eucalyptus ($33.60, usually $42): This will probably go down as one of the three best—if not the best—body washes of all time. The eucalyptus scent is absolutely divine and leaves your entire bathroom smelling like a spa without overwhelming. The formula itself is just a great, non-drying cleanser with a rich foam and easy rinse-off. Invest in the extra-large size, which also comes with a lovely pump top, while it’s on sale.

• The 250 Ml Body Wash in Hinoki ($22.40, usually $28): If you want to branch out from the eucalyptus scent, this one is a definite second-best. It’s the same base formula, with the addition of gentle chemical exfoliants and that delicious Japanese cedar scent.

• The Hand Retinol ($30.40, usually $38): An incredibly approachable retinol for the hands that requires zero afterthought—it doesn’t irritate or pill or leave behind that dreaded sticky film some hand creams can. Leave it by your bedside and apply before sleep. If you’re worried about signs of aging, the hands are an excellent place to invest in (besides the face, obviously).

• The Sex Gel ($22.40, usually $28): Fancy lube. What’s not to love?

• The Body Essentials Mini in Eucalyptus ($32, usually $40): I’m a bit of a freak about mini-sized products (we can dive into that another time), and I really appreciate the fact that these have the same packaging as their full-sized counterparts. Great for yourself or as a gift.

• The Body Duo in Eucalyptus ($88, usually $94): A great gift to keep on hand. I’d give it to someone hosting me at their beautiful Hamptons house for the weekend (any takers?).

Sephora

The Deal: 50% off select products every day (basically just the same ones as Ulta’s 21 Days of Beauty), and up to 50% off an assortment of goods

• LYS Triple Fix Brightening Concealer ($14, usually $20): Despite the limited shade range available, this concealer is still quite impressive. It’s fairly full coverage and comparable to the beloved Hourglass Vanish Airbrush Concealer ($38)—at half the cost.

• Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick SPF 50 ($25.60, usually $33): You probably don’t think you need this because summer’s almost over, but sunscreen is not limited to the summer. I keep one of these (or something similar) in most purses for easy, on-the-go reapplication. Why not re-up your stash at a discount?

• Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Waterproof Eyeliner Pencil ($13.80, usually $23): Simply a great eye pencil. It’s ultra-creamy yet long-lasting, even on the waterline. I like the following shades: Perversion (a matte black), Smoke (deep matte gray), Whiskey (rich matte brown), Demolition (deep matte brown), and Space Cowboy (light champagne gold with silver sparkle).

• Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Tinted Lip Oil Stain ($15.40, usually $22): This is definitely one of my top-three favorite Rare Beauty products. I think it was actually a bit too ahead of the curve when it launched, so people dismissed it, but this oil-stain technology is much more common now, so perhaps it’ll have a resurgence. It’s exactly what it sounds like, a tinted lip oil stain. It offers fairly light coverage, which makes it great for day-to-day use. I like shades Happy (a cool pink), Delight (rose brown), Serenity (warm rose), and Wonder (a rose mauve).

• Saie Glow Sculpt Multi-Use Cream Highlighting Blush ($16.80, usually $28): Another product I don’t think got the love it deserves. This is a true hybrid product, though I primarily use it as a glowy blush or wash of color on the eyelids. It’s a silky cream formula and melts into the skin for an added radiance. I really do like all the shades!

• Shiseido Eyelash Curler ($22.40, usually $28): My ride-or-die eyelash curler. It never tugs, and makes grabbing all the lashes gloriously easy.

• First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($28.50, usually $38): I’ve always known these were beloved, but didn’t really pay much attention until my wedding makeup artist used them on me. They’re gentle enough for regular use; I like to use them twice a week at night, but I’d also suggest swiping one across your face before makeup for any big event. A great option for sensitive skin.

• Peace Out Acne Healing Dots ($33.75, usually $45): Yes, these are more expensive than other pimple patches, but they’re simply superior. There are two main features that set these apart from the rest: One, they have a micro-dose of salicylic acid and aloe vera in each patch, making it the only patch to combine the hydrocolloid technology with active ingredients. I swear that makes it work faster and more effectively than any other on the market. Two, they’re the stickiest patches I’ve tried. I am quite active in my sleep (sorry, Brandon), and these never fall off.

• Ellis Brooklyn Mini Chapters Perfume Coffret Set ($38.35, usually $59): These are very cute (again, my thing for miniatures comes into play), and a great way to test out some of my favorite Ellis Brooklyn fragrances without blindly committing to one. Also a great set to have on hand for last-minute gifts.

• Caliray Socal Superbloom Lip and Cheek Gloss + Tint ($21, usually $28): Quietly a great lip stain. It’s also a solid blush, but I primarily use it on my lips. It’s super fluid and comfortable but still packs a punch in the color department.

• First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream ($28.50, usually $38): I like to have a very good, very gentle thick moisturizer on hand at all times. You just never know when you might need it, and it’s nice to have an old faithful waiting around for you. That’s exactly what this is.

• Virtue Flourish Minoxidil 5% Hair Growth Treatment ($21, usually $30): I’ve never used it before, but I’d recommend it for two reasons: One, Virtue has some very impressive science behind it. And two, minoxidil is the only FDA-approved ingredient clinically proven to boost hair growth. So if you’ve been looking for a hair growth treatment, I endorse this one.

• Living Proof So Fresh, So Clean Advanced Clean Dry Shampoo Set ($24, usually $35): Yes, my strange need for miniature sizes of all my favorite products does come into play here, but this is also just an excellent dry shampoo. It’s intense, so I’d suggest it only to those with an oilier scalp—if you’re just looking for a little top off, go elsewhere. And at this price, you’re getting a full size and mini size for less than a single full-size bottle! Easy math.

• First Aid Beauty KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub ($22.50, usually $30): A real scrubby scrub, if you know what I mean. I love that this has the one-two punch of both chemical and physical exfoliants, and its mess-free, squeeze-tube packaging. Get it in the strawberry scent or the original version, both are great. I like to use this before self-tanner.

• Skylar Fall Cashmere Eau de Parfum Rollerball ($22.50, usually $30): I would not suggest blind purchasing a full-size fragrance, but a travel size or rollerball is absolutely fair game. Actually, I think it’s a great idea. This one is perfect for the upcoming season. It’s warm and sweet and a little spicy, with notes of cinnamon bark, roasted almond, and spiced ginger.

• Shiseido Facial Cotton ($12.80, usually $17): Just trust me with this one. These are the only cotton pads I let touch my precious little face.

• Bio Ionic Long Barrel Curling Iron 1.5” ($114, usually $163): A stylist-loved curling iron perfect for loose waves. It’s easy to use, lasts a lifetime, and features an extra-long barrel.

• PHLUR Missing Person Perfume Oil ($33.75, usually $45): If you love the infamous Missing Person fragrance (another one of those classic skin scents) but wish it had a bit more staying power, I’d suggest trying this perfume oil. The format is known for lasting longer than traditional eau de parfums.

• Shark Beauty FlexStyle Blow Dryer and Multi-Styler ($279, usually $349): I mean, if you’re in the market for it, that’s a pretty nice chunk of change off the usual price.

• Nette Chai Milk Candle ($61.50, usually $82): I almost don’t want to share this one, which is how I know it’s a really great recommendation. I’ve gone through at least four of these guys. It’s warm and spicy and cozy and delicious, with a double wick and up to 55 hours of burn time.

Other Sales Of Note

• Danessa Myricks: 30% off sitewide with code LABORDAY30

• NARS Cosmetics: 20% off sitewide and 40% off last-chance items with code SUMMER

• Naturium: 20% off sitewide with code LDW25

• Supergoop: 20% off sitewide, no code needed

Okay, done for now. Talk next week!

Xx

You know when you’re just in it? That’s been me all week. My insides have been on fire; I swear I can feel every tiny cell in my body exploding with potential.

It all started in an incredibly stupid place: TikTok, of course. Over the last five days, my account went from 200 followers to more than 3,000. I went viral! Or at least I think this constitutes viral—it has around 300,000 views at this point. If nothing else, it’s well known.

Of course, it was the least important video I’ve ever posted. I know the influx of followers means nothing; these people aren’t here for me, and I’m sure I’ll lose many of them over time. But for whatever reason, it’s ignited this insane renewed drive in me.

Lately, I’d been feeling frustrated about all the upfront work I’m doing, hoping for eventual results. Posting videos that maybe three people see, writing a Substack that hasn’t felt like it’s quite working, going back and forth with editors about potential stories only for the exact, very specific pitch to be published in the New York Times the next morning (this actually happened last week), plotting out a book that I have no guarantee will ever be published (it’s a thriller set in the beauty industry, and I kind of think it’s going to be amazing)—it’s hard to stay positive when you’re in the heads-down working phase.

For god know’s what reason, going viral unlocked it for me. Maybe it’s just seeing movement of any kind. Maybe it’s just something different than the general monotony of it all. Whatever it is, I see the path forward.

I’ve come to the realization that no one is truly getting their beauty news from a bi-weekly Substack. Duh. My subscribers fall into a few main categories: You’re a colleague in the beauty industry (in which case, you already know the news) or you’re here because you like my work, want to support me, or you’re a family member/friend who feels like they didn’t have a say in the matter. I’ll take it all, I’m not picky (thank you!). But whatever the case is, the bottom line is the same: You’re here for me. So I’m going to give you what you came for.

I’m going to cover less stories and less launches, instead focusing on the ones that speak to me; the ones in which I have something of value to add to the conversation. And then I’m just going to let it rip. Less editing, less structure, more raw thoughts, probably more rants, and definitely more me. Here’s my promise: If it elicits a reaction from me, you’ll hear about it.

I’ll start it off with this amazing quote I saw on Instagram from the Dame herself:

And now, let’s get on with the show.

• E.l.f Cosmetics royally misses the mark with controversial Matt Rife campaign (BoF): E.l.f’s latest campaign, a parody of those old Cellino & Barnes ads (that jingle!) featuring drag queen Heidi N Closet and comedian Matt Rife, has left fans in outrage. It’s not shocking, given Rife has not only made several domestic violence jokes in his work, but also actively chosen to include those jokes in his 2024 Netflix special. The brand posted an apology two days later, noting it “missed the mark with people we care about” and ending on a rather odd note that “although E.l.f.ino & Schmarnes closes today, we’ll continue to make the case against overpriced beauty.” In an absolutely baffling emergency PR tactic, the brand’s CMO exclusively spoke with Business of Fashion, claiming that the brand focused on data—Rife’s TikTok base is 80% female, with 75% below the age of 34—rather than Rife himself. Not to mention his notoriously misogynistic reputation. As of publish, E.l.f has kept the original ad live on its social media accounts.

  

  • Unfortunately, this campaign had the potential to be pretty good (though the Cellino & Barnes reference seems quite niche and perhaps a bit old for its target demographic). E.l.f. was more than halfway there—the idea was funny and a queer black drag queen was one of the two leads! And yet the brand instead chose to tank not only the campaign but also its entire reputation. I say chose, because I simply cannot imagine a world in which no concerns about Rife’s inclusion were ever mentioned. There’s absolutely no way this campaign made it to launch without anyone considering the negative implications of featuring this guy. It’s just so blatant, especially for a brand that’s usually so tapped into pop culture.
    
    The apology was meh, but I honestly think it’s this Business of Fashion interview that’s most egregious. After all, apologies can really only go so far—they’re never going to win anyone ever. But it is an absolutely baffling move to claim ignorance, as the CMO is. I don’t even understand the excuse: You liked the data, so you just didn’t look into this guy any further? How can that possibly be true?

    
    I’m trying to put my integrated marketing communications certificate to work and remember what my PR crisis professor would’ve suggested a brand do in this situation. Unfortunately I can only remember the time my friend Megan and I used the two-hour lecture as a pregame and drank wine out of coffee cups. If I had to give a suggestion, I’d say stick to the apologies and promises to do better, and just move forward. Don’t try to explain yourself out of the issue.
    
    All in all, I don’t think this will drastically impact the brand in the long run. The products are generally pretty good, and the prices are great. One bad move does not make a bad brand—though I want to reiterate it was a very stupid, easily avoidable move. And it’s probably going to be a rocky couple of weeks. Good thing the brand has E.l.f.ino & Schmarnes on retainer, I guess.

• Hung Vanngo joins the roster of expert-led beauty brands launching at Sephora (WWD): More than two decades into his career, makeup artist Hung Vanngo is officially launching his eponymous makeup brand on September 8. He’s an industry favorite, regularly working with Selena Gomez and Scarlett Johansson, and has long been a go-to makeup artist for Victoria’s Secret Angels. The brand, he says, is about “perfecting the basics,” and he’s starting by making bold colors feel more approachable for the average makeup user. To that end, the brand will launch with eight eyeshadow palettes, 18 matte lipsticks, nine lip liners, 10 eyeliners, three kohls, six blushes, and six bronzers. The brand will be available both in-store and online at Sephora.com.

  

  • I’d like to start with a piece of advice for anyone starting any brand ever: Do not name your company after yourself. Have we learned nothing from Bobbi Brown, who has absolutely zero affiliation with the eponymous makeup brand she sold to Estée Lauder in 1995? There’s just no reason to risk it, especially given the many instances in which non-celebrity founders still shine as the face of a brand (Marianna Hewitt at Summer Fridays, Laney Crowell at Saie, Jen Atkins at Ouai—need I go on?).

    Now I fear I must say (or type, I guess) out loud what I think a lot of people in the industry are quietly whispering. I love an expert-led brand, don’t get me wrong, but is being an expert enough of a differentiating factor to necessitate a brand? For Vanngo, it honestly might be. I mean, I’m clamoring to get my hands on Hung Vanngo Beauty (though I don’t think my interest is necessarily hard to get in beauty). But this is one of three major expert-led brands launching at Sephora in the next month alone. I guess I’m just curious what the brand’s through line is here beyond Vanngo himself. Makeup by Mario is about artistry, Patrick Ta is about…artistry, Danessa Myricks is.…about…artistry; I think you understand where I’m going with this. And yet I’d rather these experts make new brands than virtually anyone else! So perhaps I’m just nitpicking for the sake of it.

    I am, however, curious why experts no longer go for ambassadorships or long-term partnerships with pre-existing brands. Why doesn’t that feel like enough anymore? I heard something interesting recently, I believe it was on Glossed Angeles, about how, because all of the foremost experts are now making their own brands, those ambassadorships are going to artists earlier in their careers. And if that’s the case, I actually quite like it. The ambassadorships help raise these newer artists’ profiles while also acting as a training ground for their eventual eponymous lines. I can get behind that. I’d love to hear from someone like Daniel Martin, who could’ve started his own line years ago (and it’d absolutely go gangbusters), but instead has stuck with Tatcha as the brand’s Global Director of Artistry.

    
    As for the Hung Vanngo Beauty lineup itself, the brand is certainly launching with a splash. Eight eyeshadow palettes (with eight shades each), 18 matte lipsticks, nine lip liners, 10 eyeliners, three kohls (whereas the eyeliners appear to be gel), six blushes, and six bronzers. That’s a lot! And there’s tons of color—bold shadow palettes in shades of greens and blues and purples, and a cherry red eyeliner I’m very curious about. Both the blushes and bronzers feature what the brand calls a “cloud-matte finish,” which I’d like to know more about. The lipsticks, in particular, feel symbolic to me.
    
    When Makeup by Mario launched its SuperSatin Lipstick collection, I asked Mario (yes, himself) what was special about this launch—so many of his offerings feature unique technology or are made to translate his techniques to the general public—so what about the lipsticks? What he said really stuck with me. That particular launch wasn’t about elevating a product or bringing expertise to the masses; for him, launching a classic satin lipstick was simply a right of passage. He’s not wrong. I’m guessing the same is true for Vanngo’s lipsticks.
    
    Anyway, I’d like to reiterate that I’m dying to get my hands on this brand (who’s doing the PR?). And I’m excited to hear more from Vanngo himself! A great personality is probably enough to fuel the brand, at least for a few years.

• The FDA issued warnings to Supergoop!, Vacation, and three other brands regarding alleged regulatory violations with their foam-format sunscreens (Allure): On August 6, five brands—including Supergoop! and Vacation—received warning letters from the FDA, alleging the brands’ foam, whipped, and/or mousse sunscreens are “misbranded.” Per FDA rules, sunscreens can only be sold as oils, lotions, creams, gels, butters, pastes, ointments, sticks, sprays, and powders. In order to sell sunscreen in a foam, whipped, or mousse format, brands must submit a new drug application with sufficient data proving efficacy and efficiency—which, according to the FDA, all five brands failed to provide. The FDA also called out particular concerns with Vacation’s Classic Whip, noting the potential danger of drugs or cosmetics marketed similarly to food products. Each brand in question has 15 working days (from August 6, so until the 27th I believe) to respond to the agency with specific steps it has taken to correct any violations or explain why its product is not, in fact, in violation of the law. What exactly would happen should a brand not respond during that 15-day timeline is unclear.

  

  • The FDA is in notoriously bad hands at the moment, but my beef with the agency precedes RFK Jr. getting his grubby little paws on our vaccines and medicine. A bit of background: At this moment, there are 17 approved UV filters in the U.S., and only a few of which are actually usable in modern sunscreen formulations. The FDA hasn’t approved a new filter in more than 25 years. Meanwhile, there are over 30 filters actively approved and used in Europe, Korea, and Australia, nearly all of which, experts say, are longer lasting than their U.S. counterparts, and come with better broad-spectrum coverage and less potential for allergies and irritation.

    
    Here, sunscreens are deemed over-the-counter drugs and are thus beholden to the FDA’s rules, regulations, and rigorous testing and approval processes. That’s not necessarily a bad thing—we want our sunscreens to be safe and efficacious. But even if all the necessary rules, regulations, and testing are completed, which, by the way, requires a lot of money, the FDA still needs to give final approval. At least eight new sunscreen filters have been filed since 2002, none of which have yet to achieve that FDA stamp of approval. We’re still not totally clear on what’s taking the FDA so long, but as a result, U.S.-manufactured sunscreens are notoriously meh (at best). All this to say, the administration seems to already have its hands full when it comes to sunscreen.

    Even more perplexing is the FDA’s choice to address these mousse formulas now. Supergoop!’s had its mousse on the shelves since 2017, and Vacation’s formula launched in 2022. The FDA has quite literally had years to look into this supposed issue. It begs the question, if the FDA isn’t on top of the products it allows on the shelves and it’s not working to approve new UV filters, what in god’s name is going on over there? On one hand, it’s nice to see the administration still seems to care about sun protection, but it’s a bit of a bummer in terms of sunscreen innovation. I understand its concerns—a mousse format is technically not legal per regulations. And it’s important that the sunscreens on our shelves actually work the way they claim to. But, again, is this really the biggest fish the FDA has to fry right now, even when just limiting the scope to sun protection?
    

    Of course, we now have to contend with the unfortunate reality that is this country’s lacking media literacy. I fear this will spiral the same way so many sunscreen-laden scandals tend to do. Let’s look at three headlines I pulled from the first page of Google results: ‘Beware’ Mousse-Based Sunscreen, FDA Warns; The FDA Just Gave Us a Major Warning About Mousse Sunscreen; FDA Warns Americans To Avoid Certain Popular Sunscreen Products.
    
    Okay, so the FDA technically did tell consumers to “beware” of mousse sunscreens in this tweet (what is the X verbiage for tweet?), but the TSA also posted on Threads recently saying the A in its acronym stands for “absolutely do not take that to the airport.” And let’s not forget the absolutely terrifying Instagram from the White House, in which Trump was referred to as “the king.” All this to say, government-sanctioned social media accounts are clearly not held to any sort of standard of the truth. And when people only read headlines, as they often do, they’re not just getting half the story; they’re getting a different story entirely. And while I really hate to go on a political tirade in my sweet little beauty Substack, but when sunscreen is under government control, it’s inherently political.
    
    If there’s one thing you take away from this, I hope it is the importance of nuance. And not to take any social media post as gospel, even if it seems to come from a reputable source. Oh, and that mousse sunscreens are probably just as effective as any other format, and you don’t need to rush to throw out that $23 can of Vacation’s Classic Whip SPF just yet—at the very least, there’s no reason to panic or cause for serious concern. And, finally, that when I say “one thing,” it’s likely really three or four things.

• Kylie Cosmetics Eyeshadow Brush Bundle ($79.20): Kylie Cosmetics launched its eyeshadow brush collection this week. You can purchase each brush separately for $22 a piece, or the collection as a whole for $79.20. In the below image, one side shows the promotional image for this new launch. The other is a recreation of that image (made by me, thank you Canva Pro) using Fenty makeup brushes. Can you tell the difference? To be fair, Fenty does not offer eyeshadow brushes, but the similarities are still astonishing.

• Chris McMillian The Hair Mousse for Bouncy Volume ($36): Mousse usually scares me; most hair styling products scare me. My scalp is miserably greasy, and I’ve been trained to shy away from any nonessential stylers. But every once in a while I swallow that fear and test the waters. And boy am I happy I did. I scrunch this mousse into towel-dried hair and just let it do its thing. It leaves behind a slightly crunchy cast that initially spooked me—but it’s easily removed with a bit of finger-raking. It defines my waves and adds a natural-looking volume without feeling goopy or sticky or heavy. I even put some near my roots! And no oil spill-esque disaster ensued! It also smells divine, with a “tomboy” fragrance featuring notes of bergamot, baie rose, and vetiver.

It’s a same-same-but-different Glossed Over. I’d really appreciate any and all feedback here—do you like a more me-centric newsletter? What are we missing? One of the most helpful things you can do on here is comment, share, or follow. Please do!

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