Looking for a little travel inspo beyond our monthly newsletters and seasonal roundups of everything from special events to live theater and music? Here is what the Explore Minnesota team is looking forward to during the final days of summer and the first signs of fall.

Find Our More About Star of the North

September is my favorite month in Minnesota. I can still get corn and tomatoes at the Saint Paul Farmer’s Market, but the light is all sharp and slanty, and everyone starts lowering their metaphorical BPM.

My September treat is always buying a new pair of vintage Levis at Corner Store (the pros know to BYO measuring tape to save time in the dressing room). The slate of fall theater this year is also especially strong; I already have tickets to Indecent at Latté Da and will likely try to luck out on rush tickets to Waiting for Godot.

I’m also this close to finally booking a tour of the Purcell-Cutts House, which will be paired with a visit to Black Walnut Bakery and a lazy canoe around Lake of the Isles (my family does have a plum canoe rack spot, not to brag). Toward the end of the month, I’ll likely sneak down to Dundas to visit Keepsake Cidery, then hit the antique shops in Northfield on the way back.

Oh, and wearing a sweater but still eating on the patio on a 55-degree morning at Victor’s is when I know fall has truly begun.

¡Viva Septiembre!

— Devon Cox

Fall is college football time. I love being on campus, buzzing with students and fans at restaurants and tailgates. The team spirit is electric, no matter what the size of the school. Go Gophers! Go Tommies!

September is for apple orchards. From Instagram-worthy pick-your-own spots, family-friendly activities, or pre-picked apples in gift shops filled with fall treats and home décor. I like you-pick spots with some kid activities, so Pleasant Valley Orchard in the St. Croix Valley is usually the spot. They have you-pick apples, live music, apple treats, farm animals, corn pits, and hayrides without being too overwhelming.

I love fall hiking because it’s cooler, there’s fewer bugs, and the fall colors are beautiful. Some of my favorite spots are the Winchell Trail in Minneapolis, William O’Brien State Park in Marine on St. Croix, Maplewood State Park in Pelican Rapids, and Afton State Park in Hastings.

This year, I’m also hoping to do Frontenac State Park near Red Wing and Lake City or Nerstrand-Big Woods State Park near Northfield, and Elm Creek Park Reserve in Maple Grove.

— Caitlin Hannah

I’m not a sun-loving sadist who holds onto the last gasp of summer for dear life. If anything, I welcome fall with open arms. It’s a far better season, IMHO — especially here in Minnesota — and, frankly, I would rather feed my fireplace and wear a chunky sweater in the frosty depths of winter than feel like I’m walking into a steam room or dry sauna every day. (I’d rather do that by choice.)

That said, I won’t let September fly by without attending at least one more live show at Shakopee’s glorious Mystic Lake Amphitheater. If you haven’t been there yet because of poor experiences with past outdoor shows, this former music critic is psyched to say it ticks all the boxes other venues overlook in the pursuit of sheer profit.

Chief among these highlights is a crisp live mix that is never muddy; clear and present sightlines, no matter where you stand or sit; gregarious employees who are happy to help you; ample, free parking at the nearby Canterbury Park; and budget-friendly touches like free water fill stations, $2 hot dogs, and $5 canned beer. (A limited supply of macro brands like Bud Light and Rolling Rock is typically available in the central concourse, offering a welcome, “in this economy!” alternative to pours that push $20.)

The concert I am considering this Friday is a beast of a metal/hardcore bill: Slayer, Hatebreed, Down, and Suicidal Tendencies. Slayer’s headlining set is the only 40^th anniversary performance of the band’s classic “Reign in Blood” album outside of LA, which says a lot about Mystic Lake’s straight-out-of-the-gates stature within the national music scene. Personally, I’m looking forward to a night full of pressure-cooked pyrotechnics, runaway guitar riffs, and floor-punching 40-year-olds.

The other thing I’m looking forward to this month: Taking one last tour of Sea Salt’s restless seasonal menu. The generously portioned tacos and po-boys at this Minnehaha Falls mainstay are as dependable as its locally minded draft lines, but I’m constantly impressed by the culinary ambition of co-owners Kait Ziemer-Davis and Jon and Bill Blood.

While Jon brought his Coastal Seafoods background to the business when it was founded two decades ago, Bill is behind its self-explanatory Sandwich Room, and Kait oversees day-to-day operations in the main kitchen. That’s where you might find someone firing panko-crusted walleye with potato salad and roasted carrots; shrimp, squid and mahi-mahi ceviche with tostones and tostadas; or pan-seared swordfish with a refreshing salad of arugula, grilled peaches, goat cheese, pistachios, and heirloom tomatoes. Chef Heather Jansz’s Curry Diva pop-up also makes a cameo appearance occasionally.

They don’t need to be trying this hard, to be honest — Sea Salt is a Twin Cities treasure partly because of its summer-in-the-city vibes — but I applaud them for offering more than just fish shack staples and implore you to give one of their specials a go before it’s closed until next April.

— Andrew Parks

One of my family’s easiest/cheapest days last year is ready to be repeated this weekend at Lebanon Hills Regional Park’s Visitor Center Trailhead. Storytrail is a temporary, one weekend-long (Sept. 4-7 this year) self-guided walk in the park while reading posterboard-sized picture book pages set up along the trail. This year, we’re celebrating the end of the hike/book with a beach day right there at the park and then dinner at Mason Jar.

I would be remiss not to mention that September will always represent RenFest for me. I love the shows, the shops, and, most recently, I have become slightly unhinged over the competitions. Had I found out about the Fairy House competition slightly earlier this year, you would have 100% seen an entry from me (and I’m not ashamed by how nerdy that may sound, even though maybe I should be). But I digress. What makes the Renaissance Festival a must-attend IMO is that there is always something for everyone, no matter who I go with.

I’m finishing out my September up on the North Shore. First, I’ll be in Two Harbors for family fun with waterfalls at Gooseberry, pies all day every day, painting rocks and eating s’mores with the whole crew at Superior Shores. And then I’ll make my way up to Grand Marais, where I’ll dedicate my time to finding passwords on the NINE State Park Hiking Club trails in the area and taking in all the fine art the shore has to offer during Art Along the Lake. P.S. This might just be the moment I get my 25-mile hiking club patch! Only time will tell.

* Last year, my solo trip was also in the fall for a self-made book crawl through Southern Minnesota, most of which ended up on this list. Also highly recommend.

— B Schneider

We debated whether to call this a “beginner’s guide.” Were we going to share our tips and tricks for fair first-timers? Of course. Did we vigorously debate what would and would not make the list if we were showing a newcomer the ropes?

Absolutely. But the thing is, this guide isn’t the perfect day at the Minnesota State Fair for beginners. It is simply the perfect day at the Minnesota State Fair.

Perfection, of course, is subjective. Perhaps it is arrogant to declare that this is the perfect day at the fair and not our perfect day at the fair. You can sound off in the comments if we missed something so essential corn sweat is coming out of your ears, or if you’re inclined to politely, Minnesota nicely, make a suggestion.

But we’ll offer you this: our team is half locals, half transplants. We have over a century of collective fair experience but are still able to take a step back and look at things with journalistic objectivity. We really, really want you to have a good time.

No, scratch that. We need you to have a good time. We need our deep love for this fair to manifest mimetically, to become your love for the fair, to grow so big it needs its own zip code.

Here’s the thing: there may be a preponderance of evidence that our fair is the nation’s best, but it’s also four times the size of Disneyland and has upwards of 1,200 vendors. We really don’t recommend going in starry-eyed and underprepared.

So read on, intrepid fairgoer. And don’t forget to buy your tickets.

— Devon Cox

A disclaimer: Because this guide is meant to be evergreen, we chose not to feature “new” foods or anything we weren’t sure would return year after year. There is plenty of new food media coverage! You can see guides from MPR, the Star Tribune, and Beyond Beurre Blanc, who also has a classic fair foods guide that overlaps quite a bit with ours. We also produced this video if you like to look before you read.

The Night Before
Pack your bag

Thought we were going to start with how to get to the fair, weren’t you? Remember that it’s a marathon, not a sprint. While you’ll be swapping your energy gels for cheese curds, it still requires some thought.

Here’s what we recommend:

1. A backpack, not a tote bag. Your shoulder will thank you.

2. A leakproof water bottle to put in your backpack. Trust us, you don’t want to get caught paying $7 for Dasani. This isn’t the airport; you can BYO liquids. Make it lightweight and refill it at the Culligan booth or at one of the fair’s water fountains. Remember, there are very few buildings with aircon at the fair.

3. Your blue ribbon bargain book. Also, remember to download the fair’s app.

4. Band-Aids, Neosporin, baby wipes, hand sanitizer, sunscreen. The last three are a requirement; the first two are just in case. Experienced fairgoers also pack a few floss picks for errant kernels of corn.

5. A gallon Ziploc bag, for your Sweet Martha’s overflow. Don’t let your cookies contribute to the smooshed cookie graveyard.

6. CASH. Not all fair vendors take cards, including the iconic corn roast. Don’t get caught without some cash money on you. We recommend carrying it in a cross-body bag, just to be safe.

7:00 a.m.
Leave your house (or hotel, or Airbnb)

To beat the crowds, the heat, and the worst lines, consider arriving at the fair as soon as it opens at 8 a.m. Here are all the ways you can get there, ranked in order of preference:

By Bike

If you have access to a bike, this is by far the lowest-friction mode of transportation. You don’t have to deal with traffic, the path along Snelling Avenue that leads to the fair is almost entirely off-road, and there are three FREE bike parking lots. You just roll up, get a ticket from a friendly volunteer, and lock your bike up (BYO lock).

At the end of the day, you’ll hand your ticket back and be right on your way — no waiting for the bus required. Just promise us you’ll wear a helmet, okay?

By Bus

Metro Transit, the Minnesota Valley Transit Authority and SouthWest Transit run express bus service during the fare, or check the regular routes using their easy trip planner. Metro Transit buses are clean, comfortable, and air-conditioned, and they’ll drop you right outside the fair’s main gates.

By Park and Ride

If you’d rather drive in as close as you can get, you can park in one of the fair’s free “park and ride” lots and take a shuttle into the grounds, then reverse the process at the end of the day. The fair’s website will tell you which park and ride lots are full in real time, and they do get full — like, fast.

So arrive early. Also be aware that the shuttles can run behind, especially on opening day and weekends. If you’re on a tight timeline, consider the bus.

By Uber/Lyft

Yes, you can take an Uber. There are two designated pick up and drop-off areas. We recommend this option for off-peak days and times. Traffic can be gnarly, and surge pricing is usually a given.

By Car

The fair has four designated parking lots. They fill extremely quickly after opening at 6.a.m., and you will still need to walk to the fairgrounds. Parking costs $25, cash or credit. Street parking in the surrounding Falcon Heights neighborhood is metered and also costs $25, so no hack there.

Please be considerate and refrain from seeking free street parking in other nearby neighborhoods. The fair can be tough on residents, and there are plenty of other options.

8:00 a.m.
Conduct a donut throwdown showdown

The longest line at the fair for several years running has been for Peachey’s Amish Donuts. But are they better than the tried-and-true fair classic, Tom Thumb’s Mini Donuts? We did a side-by-side donut throwdown and found both options worth going out of the way for.

Peachey’s are massive, pillowy, just-chewy-enough confections big enough to split between three people with ease. Think Krispy Kreme’s bigger, better older sibling who was both prom queen and valedictorian. There is nothing these donuts don’t excel in. Sorry, but they’re worth the line.

Tom Thumb’s are tiny, piping hot, and coated in a pleasant avalanche of cinnamon-sugar. They are snackable. They are addictive. They are not as filling as Peachy’s, but is filling really what you want?

Verdict? Tie.

Our recommendation: split up your party and have one person go get Tom Thumb, which you can eat in line while you wait for your Peachy’s. We call it “Donut Inception.”

9:00 a.m.
Get arty, get smartie

The Eco Experience and Fine Arts buildings are both right near Peachy’s. Pick one or hit them both. The Eco Experience is a great place to learn about planting a bee lawn, sustainable transportation options (those of you who biked to the fair, feel free to smugly announce this), and clean energy.

The Fine Arts building contains work selected in a juried competition, and most of it is for sale. Everyone is given a fair shot; no shoo-ins here. In fact, world-renowned photographer Alec Soth was famously rejected in 2012.

Any resident of Minnesota can enter, and anyone can win a ribbon, from hobbyists to some of the state’s most renowned talents. That’s what keeps the exhibition exciting.

We’ve spotted work from heavyweights like Kordula Coleman and Leslie Barlow, but the fair brings a special thrill of discovery. You could stumble upon a painting by someone who exhibits in the Walker, yes, but you could also find yourself captivated by a brand-new artist. That’s the magic of the fair.

10 a.m.
Get cropped

The Minnesota State Fair’s crop art exhibition has become a bit of an online legend. Crop art (also known as seed art, but not here, friends) is art made from edible grains, seeds, stems, and other organic materials, as outlined in a surprisingly robust rulebook. The art version of a cult movie, expect a line if you want to see it.

And you should see it. We can’t imagine someone not being tickled by seeing Keanu Reeves’ hair rendered in 3,000 poppyseeds.

But don’t skip out on the rest of the Ag Hort building; grab a local beverage from the Minnesota Craft Brewers Guild, see the giant pumpkins, and grab an apple cider pop and a locally grown First Kiss apple on your way out. Yes, we’re telling you to eat an apple at the fair. Trust us, you’ll need a break from fryer oil at some point. No, your mom is not paying us to say this.

11 a.m.
Go international

The International Bazaar, one of the fair’s open-air markets, is where you’ll find Union Hmong Kitchen (we love their galabao, a steamed pork bun), El Burrito Mercado, West Indies Soul Food, and Holy Land. You can also go shopping from vendors representing the world’s nations. We love the colorful embroidered shirts and Scandinavian dish towels.

11:30 a.m.
Appreciate the state’s best crafters

You haven’t seen stakes until you’ve seen the competition for blue ribbon baked goods at the Minnesota State Fair. These people are serious. And so are those who enter quilts, needlework, jams, and the nebulously-named “collections” (we love a mystery!).

You can see them all at the Creative Activities building, where we often find ourselves debating fudgy vs cakey brownies or the best hand-knitted item to receive as a gift (socks, and we won’t be taking questions at this time).

After you’ve had your fill, fuel up with an eggroll on a stick and get ready for ice cream.

12:00 p.m.
See someone have their head carved out of butter

Our friends in Illinois recently tried to brag to us about their fair’s giant cow made of butter. ONE COW. SINGULAR.

At the Minnesota State Fair, we have 10 butterheads. Ten. Count ‘em. It’ll use all your fingers. These are the visages of Princess Kay of the Milky Way and her court, and every day of the fair, you can see each of these dairy ambassadors sit primly in an enormous, rotating cooler while master sculptor Gerry Kulzer recreates their likeness from a 90-pound block of butter. Each creation takes about eight hours, and yes, the Princesses get to take them home.

Sound off in the comments on whether or not you’d eat your own head or save it forever.

The dairy building is also home to the Dairy Goodness Bar, where a state-of-the-art ice cream plant churns out over 156 thousand treats over the course of the fair. We’re not trying to brag, but this is the best soft serve in the world. It’s incredibly rich and impossibly light. It’s perfect. It’s worth waiting all year for. It’s unskippable.

The line moves fast; we promise.

12:30
Compare the Pronto Pup and the corn dog

A classic fair dilemma: Pronto Pup, or corn dog? While the recipes are fairly similar (Pronto Pups use a slightly lighter, less cornmeal-heavy pancake batter, and the corn dog is slightly sweeter), each version has its staunch supporters. But we won’t bully you into choosing. Take a few bites of both and declare the winner for yourself.

Our final tally: 3 Pronto votes, 1 corn dog. I may stand alone, but I stand strong.

1:00 p.m.
Eat a peach

Taking breaks is important. Even from fried food. Even at the fair. Much like our ag building apple, we advocate for stopping at the Produce Exchange for a mid-day grilled peach (with or without goat cheese and honey).

It’s like a gustatory pomodoro method: go hard, but take a little breather every once in a while. It’s how you keep your vital organs from filing for emancipation.

1:30 p.m.
Do a cheese curd crawl

The vast majority of fairgoers will extoll the supremacy of Mouth Trap, the centerpiece of the fair’s Food Building. Mouth Trap churns out 65 thousand pounds of curds each year.

But a small, vocal minority insists that Miller’s, which offers flavor dustings like oh-so-Midwest ranch, is the hidden gem of the fair’s fried dairy scene. As always, we think you should get both. Research is important, after all. Tell yourself you’re doing the scientific method.

P.S. The Food Building is also home to Afro Deli & Grill, The Herbivorous Butcher, Walleye on a Stick, and Nitro Ice Cream, just in case you’re not full yet.

2:00 p.m.
Ride the GIANT slide

What better to do once you are chock-full of cheese curds than to hop onto a burlap sack, cozy up to a friend, and plunge down an undulating, 175-foot, neon yellow slide? We’d call this activity optional, but it’s really not.

The Giant Slide debuted in 1969 and has been a core part of Minnesota children’s memories ever since.

2:15 p.m.
Take a ride through the Ye Olde Mill

Oh, Ye Olde Mill. How do we describe your charms? Is it a ride? An experience? An excuse to make out with the person you have a crush on?

All three. The oldest attraction at the fair, Ye Olde Mill belongs to a category of amusement rides known by the somewhat cringey moniker, “Tunnel of Love.” They proliferated in the early 20^th century as couples sought a socially acceptable place to be alone together without violating any cultural standards of decency.

Once, there were as many as 700 mills operating across the U.S. Now, there are less than five. And how lucky are we to still have one?

The set-up is this: You get on a little floating car set into a lazy river and meander through a completely dark barn, occasionally passing what we can only describe as gauzily-lit dioramas set behind glass. The boat does not stop to let you enjoy them. No music plays. Then, the ride ends.

It is entirely confounding and absolutely perfect.

Propose a ride to your latest Hinge match. They’ll either enthusiastically agree (green flag) or they’ll ghost you immediately, in which case, good for you, because you don’t want to be with anyone who doesn’t appreciate the Ye Olde Mill anyway.

2:30 p.m.
Fry yourself

The Fresh French Fries stand at the Minnesota State Fair was once named the country’s best by Gourmet Magazine. Road food acolytes Jane and Michael Stern also swear by them. So what makes these fries special?

The potatoes. They’re from Big Lake, Minnesota, and are picked just days before they’re fried, so no months in cold storage here. That means less starch has developed, which makes the interior creamier and intensifies their “potato” flavor.

Are they great with ketchup? Yes, absolutely. But we’d actually argue that these fries are so good they don’t even need ketchup.

3:00 p.m.
Ride away at the Mighty Midway

When most people think “fair,” they think “Ferris wheel” and “trying to win a plushy bear at the ring toss” (IYKYK). When most people think of the “Minnesota State Fair,” they think “eat,” but we’ve got the Ferris wheel version, too.

Our rides department is called Mighty Midway (there’s also a Kidway, although they are confusingly not near each other). All the classic fair rides are represented, complete with hyperbolic names like “Kraken” and “Kamikaze”.

This version of fairhood isn’t for everyone, but the Midway fans are the Midway fans, and there’s a certain perverse pride in being able to get thrown upside-down multiple times at high velocity and not yak your curds up.

May the force be with you.

3:45 p.m.
Bask in the buttery glory of Minnesota-grown corn

From heady mazes to heirloom tortillas, we are well-documented corn fans. We even dedicated an entire newsletter to it. So, when we tell you that the epicenter of Minnesota corn culture is the fair’s boisterous Corn Roast booth, please believe us.

Here’s how it works: you pay per ear of Minnesota-grown corn (CASH ONLY, friends) and get handed one ticket per ear. Then, you bring those tickets to the corn counter, where a buzzing production line of teenagers so smudged in soot they look like Dickensian factory workers preside over an open-grill-to-butter vat workflow.

Finished ears are rapidly handed off to the auctioneer staff, who carry them to the counter and exchange them for tickets. It’s a little chaotic, a lot of fun, and the corn is the platonic ideal: sweet, warm, and drenched in flavor-amplifying fat and salt.

Also near the corn roast is the alligator on a stick, which Chris, our Louisiana native, declared “really, really good.”

If that’s not an endorsement, we don’t know what is.

4:00 p.m.
Get Up North on the SkyGlider

The SkyGlider is a fair favorite for several reasons:

1. It’s the most efficient way to get from one end of the fair to the other.

2. Your feet will probably need a break (trust us).

3. The aerial people watching is unrivaled.

There is also the closed vessel SkyRide, but we prefer the wind in our hair, so we typically take the gilder from the Grandstand (the fair’s epicenter and flagship event venue) to the north end, where a lot of the fair’s hidden gems are located. Think Korean corn dogs and mochi donuts at Chan’s Eatery, Baba’s Hummus (maybe the first protein you’ll have had since your Pronto Pup?), and the walleye cakes from Giggles’ Campfire Grill. But it’s also got the famous lumberjack show, the time-warp traditions of Hamline Church Dining Hall, the instant karaoke icons of the Giant Sing-Along, and the doggo demos that draw animal lovers toward the Pet Pavilions.

After you’re done, get back on the Skyglider and relax your way back to the Grandstand.

5:00 p.m.
Pet some animals or shop at West End Market

Where else can you watch a pig give birth, then pet baby goats? If you’re more into adult animals, there are different barns for sheep and poultry, cattle, and horses, an important part of the fair’s agricultural beginnings.

Alternatively, shop your heart out at the West End Market, where local vendors sell a variety of wares. You can even get soft serve peach and raspberry beer from Pyres Brewing (we didn’t, because we don’t drink on the job, but it’s very popular!).

6:00 p.m.
Visit Sweet Martha

We may have a new Princess Kay every year, but the fair only has one Queen, and her name is Martha. The ubiquitous chocolate-chip cookies from Sweet Martha’s Cookie Jar are an #OnlyinMN treat.

Founded in 1979 by Martha Rossini Olson, the perfectly chewy, perfectly sized cookies are now perhaps the signature item of the fair. Most people get a bucket (remember that overflow bag!) and take some home to enjoy later.

At least, we think they do. Is anyone out there eating their entire bucket of Sweet Martha’s in one day? If so, comment below. We are extremely impressed and also slightly concerned.

On busy days, Sweet Martha’s puts out 3 million cookies, adding up to 54 tons over the course of the fair.

If you want to try them, but don’t want to commit to a bucket’s worth, get a cone. It’s enough for everyone to cap their day off with one or two warm cookies, no overflow bag required.

If You’re Not Full Yet

Our other favorite vendors and foods include:

• Danielson and Daughter’s Onion Rings

• Fried Olives on a Stick (similar in spirit, and more overtly Minnesotan: Ole and Lena’s Tater Tot Hot Dish on-a-Stick with Cream of Mushroom Dipping Sauce)

• Honey lemonade and ice cream

• Key Lime Pie Bar

• Kiwanis Malts

• Peterson’s Pork Chops

• The signature sandwiches at Turkey to Go and Carl’s Gizmo

Things to Remember

1. The fair is usually at its busiest in the afternoon. If you want to beat the crowds, show up at opening and plan to take off around 1 or 2 p.m. You won’t be able to do this whole itinerary, but you can pick your hits.

2. You will get a hand stamp at the entrance, allowing you to leave the fair and return later. So if you have tickets for a Grandstand concert, you aren’t necessarily obligated to stay all day.

3. There’s air conditioning in the North End Event Center and History and Heritage Center near the West End.

4. If you want to see the llama costume contest, get in line early. It is THAT popular.

5. The more friends you bring, the more food you get to try. It’s also a great way to split costs. We recommend everyone putting a certain amount into a Venmo, and the person who receives the Venmo getting out that amount in cash. That way, you’re not exchanging money throughout the entire day.

6. If it looks like it might rain, just bring the umbrella.

7. Don’t be afraid to talk to people! Minnesotans are kind, and they want to share their fair tips with you. You never know who might share your new favorite food with you.

See even more things to do at the fair, locals’ favorites, a practical breakdown for beginners, and our guide to visiting with kids.

Our new friend Sierra Reece also manifested her first Minnesota State Fair, so we’re making it happen this week. Share your top fair tips with her here and follow along as she explores the Great-Minnesota Get-Together with local creators SadeintheCities and FeedMeez.

Follow the fun on her Instagram and TikTok or subscribe to her Substack, The Daily Cornbread

SIgn Up for a Free Subscription

Picture this: you’re standing in central Minnesota, staring at an architectural marvel designed by the man who inspired “The Brutalist.” You are alone. No one is pushing you around to get a better view. No one is smacking your selfie stick.

Drive 10 minutes, and you’ll end up at a restaurant with Creole food so good you’ll be immediately transported to your childhood meals at Li’l Dizzy’s. Drive another hour, and you’ll be at an idyllic farm slinging wood-fired pizzas and crawling into a memory foam mattress in a glamping tent.

This is what I love about Minnesota. She’s got the range, and you don’t have to compete with a thousand other tourists to enjoy the best spots; bribe a surly hostess who thinks your shoes are cheugy; or stand in a three-hour line for a triple-layer s’mores matcha cronut.

You can just show up, eat well, enjoy some of the world’s best design, and return home in less time than it takes to get through the Starbucks line at the airport.

— Devon Cox

DAY ONE

4 p.m.
Drive to your friendly local pizza farm

Pizza farms are not trying to confuse you. They are exactly what their name says: farms where pizza is served.

The movement spread across the Upper Midwest in the mid-2010s before enjoying a COVID-era boom. At first blush, the concept seems peculiar. But the pizza farm is a sort of rural rifacimento, recasting struggling family farms into thriving agritourism businesses.

At least, that’s how Kim Hayes, the owner of Alpha and Omega in Princeton, sees it. She and her husband, Brad, opened Alpha and Omega in 2020, and the business has been so successful that it is now their full-time job.

Kim is tall, tan, and gregarious. When we arrived on a Thursday evening, heavy sunlight dripping through the canopy of oaks and maples, she was working the crowd in a Yves-Klein blue jumpsuit, introducing herself to guests and personally delivering pizzas.

Later, she plopped directly onto our blanket and shared both her vision for the future of Minnesota’s agritourism industry and the recipe she uses for crunchy-on-the-outside, pillowy-on-the-inside pizza crust.

The scene at Alpha Omega (which took about 90 minutes to get to from Minneapolis) is Noah Kahanian, late summer idyll — all gauzy light and redolent basil plants overflowing from metal troughs. A local sister-band duo played “Kiss Me” from a converted truck bed. Children cavorted between picnic tables and bested each other at cornhole. Demilunes of string lights hung between converted grain silos and corn cribs, where happy diners drank from sweating bottles of rosé and fought over the last slice.

I felt as if I’d been transported to the scene of a ‘90s romcom, half expecting to run into a flannel-wearing innkeeper who would take me away from my big city life.

With proper char, gorgeously blistered cheese, and a scattering of purple micro-basil, Alpha and Omega’s pizza easily earns its place amongst the state’s best. Kim grows most of her own vegetables (as many pizza farms do), and the ones she doesn’t are delivered by a man she simply referred to as “Chuck.” Chuck, Kim explained, grows the “cutest tomatoes,” which I have subsequently identified as heirloom yellow pears. The cheese is local, as is the meat from Milaca, located just 17 miles down the road (and the home of Heggie’s pizza). I enjoyed it with a lemonade I did not expect to be served line-cook style, a.k.a. in a container the size of my head.

When Kim got up from our blanket, she told us we could toss any leftovers over the fence so the pigs could enjoy them. But unsurprisingly, there weren’t any leftovers.

Alpha and Omega Pizza Farm

Address: 6714 Alpha Rd, Princeton, MN 55371
Hours: Pizza nights are on Thursdays and Saturdays from 4:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. Goat yoga is on Saturdays from noon to 2 p.m. Summer pizza nights go through Labor Day. In September, they switch over to Sunday lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Good to know: You must reserve your crust in advance (they sell out quickly). Alpha and Omega does not have a liquor license. When we were there, a truck sold limited alcoholic beverages, but you can also BYOB. As with all pizza farms, remember to bring your own blanket, plates, utensils, napkins, and other dinner accouterments.

9:00 p.m.
Sleep in a real bed, but under the stars

I must admit that I do not, will not, sleep on anything that could reasonably be described as “ground.” Therefore, I abstain from camping. But glamping, camping’s palatial cousin, includes enough creature comforts for me to partake. Specifically, a bed. A nice bed. A queen-size with a nice memory foam mattress and a quilt.

After the pizza crew had cleaned up and gone home, the farm fell quiet. The crickets hummed. At some point in the night, rain began to fall on the metal roof above the tent. I get it, I thought, drifting in and out of consciousness. I get why people camp.

Good to know: The bathroom situation is porta-potties (but they’re big and clean!). There is a hand-wash sink with running water for brushing your teeth.

Bring portable chargers if you need them; these glamp tents do not have electricity. We also brought USB-powered collapsible fans, which came in clutch.

For those who want to stay the night but don’t want to do camping of any kind, you can rent the Summerhuis.

DAY TWO

8 a.m.
Enjoy breakfast in two parts

Kim delivered coffee and caramel rolls at 8 in the morning, both of which were enjoyed in bed whilst watching cool rain fall on the pasture. In the 20 minutes it took to do this, I briefly transformed into Henry David Thoreau.

However, like hobbits, some of us must have a second breakfast, so we made the hour-long drive to St. Cloud to go to Kitchenette, a small daily brunch café that prides itself on scratch cooking and the world’s best bacon.

They are not lying about the bacon. This is no flimsy, flabby pork product. It is thick-cut, dry-aged, smoked on cherrywood, capital B Bacon from Jones Dairy, and is tragically NOT AVAILABLE IN MINNESOTA GROCERY STORES.

So, you’ll have to go to Kitchenette to try it. Sorry, and you’re welcome. Get the BELTA (bacon, egg, lettuce, tomato, avocado) sandwich, upgrade to crispy smashed potatoes, and tell them Explore Minnesota sent you.

Vegetarians, worry not: Kitchenette’s eponymous omelet is stuffed with mushrooms, onions, poblano pepper, cherry tomatoes and spinach, and they also offer a Belgian waffle that would be equally good as an entreé or ordered for the table.

Kitchenette

Address: 417 E St Germain St, St. Cloud, MN 56304
Hours: Daily, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.

Good to know: Popular. We arrived on a Friday around 9, and it was quiet, but an hour and a half later, the restaurant was full. No reservations, so plan accordingly.

11:00 a.m.
Pick up a few vintage wares

St. Cloud’s East End is a vibrant, rapidly evolving neighborhood home to Iron Street Distillery and Somali Café and Restaurant.

Sage and Salvage / Scout & Co was just next door to breakfast, offering vintage Le Creuset alongside handmade wood furniture.

I picked up two vintage baskets and a side table from local woodworker Tim Willey, whose website I would link here if he had one. (His business card lists only his wife’s hotmail.com email address. I’m pretty sure we call that charm.)

Scout & Co.

Address: 413 E. St. Germain, St. Cloud, MN
Hours: Open Friday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.

1 p.m.
Enjoy the extraordinary church that inspired “The Brutalist”

The Hungarian-Jewish Architect Marcel Breuer (pronounced BROYER) was a student and then instructor at the Bauhaus school of design, founded by the influential modernist Walter Groipus in Weimar, Germany, alongside names like Wassily (Vassily) Kandinsky (whom Breuer would later name an iconic chair after), Paul Klee, and Josef Albers.

Sadly, the progressive Bauhaus school was forced to close under Nazi pressure in 1933. By that time, Groipus and Breuer had both fled Hitler’s Germany — Breuer on account of his ethnic Judaism, Groipus due to his status as a “degenerate artist”. By 1937, they were both on the faculty at Harvard University.

It was in the United States that Breuer turned to Brutalism, the austere postwar architectural style commonly derided by those without an appreciation for the tension between beauty and function. To put it in modern parlance, Brutalism is architecturally ugly-hot. Breuer designed Paris’s UNESCO Headquarters and the third iteration of the Whitney Museum (now owned by Sotheby’s).

However, it was the immense, almost Promethean St. John’s Abbey that inspired director Brady Corbet to make his Oscar-winning 2024 film, The Brutalist, starring a very sad Adrien Brody. While the story is highly fictionalized (apparently very nice monks as clients do not make for high-stakes drama), Corbet drew on the memoir “Marcel Breuer and a Committee of Twelve Plan a Church,” which you can purchase at the school’s on-site bookshop.

I am not Catholic. But I am a bona fide design nerd, and seeing St. John’s Abbey in person was, as someone who cried in Finn Juhl’s house, just about as spiritual as it gets for me. You do not have to be religious to appreciate the disciplined grandeur of Breuer’s design. One must pass through “the banner,” as it’s called, a 112-foot structure that holds the church’s bell, in order to reach the carved wooden doors of the abbey, and that journey alone is enough to inspire awe.

Inside the lobby, diaphanous sunlight illuminates an expressionist figurative sculpture that I thought might be a Giacometti but is, in fact, Doris Caesar’s rendering of St. John the Baptist. He gazes upon a dark granite water feature, representing entry to the church through baptism. A tripartite door leads to the sanctuary, where I wandered alone for a strangely nebulous amount of time, each turn revealing a view of the folded-plate walls that felt completely considered, as if Breuer had individually mapped thousands of possible sightlines and designed for each of them.

Orange light haloed the skylight over the altar, designed to look like the oculus of Rome’s Pantheon. The stained glass of this “lantern” was designed by Breuer’s old Bauhaus buddy Josef Albers.

Breuer also wanted Albers to design the massive north wall of 430 stained glass hexagons, but the church committee chose faculty member Bronislaw Bak. Bak’s design features 125 hues of handblown glass imported from Europe surrounding a symbolic “white eye of God” at the center.

The overall effect is spectacular, casting Kodachrome colors onto the surrounding concrete and begging you to walk around the church and appreciate how the light and tone continually shift, reminiscent of an expressionist painting.

St. John’s Abbey

Address: 2900 Abbey Plaza, Collegeville, MN 56321
Hours: Open to the public daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Good to know: This is still very much a church. Be respectful, time your self-guided tour so it doesn't coincide with services, and don’t take any photos that are in poor taste. Guided tours are available for a nominal cost, but you must have a group of six or more.

2:00 p.m.
Wander campus

The abbey isn’t the only famous piece of lore on the St. John’s campus. It’s the place where Minnesota Public Radio was born (a very young Garrison Keillor was one of the first hosts), there’s an on-site sculpture garden partially hidden behind a building, and the library contains a rare handwritten bible, which you can see on display.

It was still pouring outside, so I visited the library’s small but lovely art gallery, then plucked a few design books from the stacks and settled into one of the many Cesca chairs while reading about Breuer (very meta!).

In addition to the campus, Breuer also designed a house for Frank Kacmarcik, the St. John’s professor who advocated for Breuer’s hiring. The home, which sits on the bluffs above Pigs Eye Lake in St. Paul, was last for sale in 2007. Keep an eye on the market, you might get lucky!

For the Breuer-curious, you can see all of his buildings on this interactive registry map.

3:00 p.m.
Grab a coffee and hit the farmer’s market, then enjoy your spoils in peaceful surroundings

St. Joseph is a platonically idealistic college town, with a thriving main street and packed-to-the-gills coffee shop, Local Blend, where I got a flat white after browsing the wares at Minnesota Street Market, the food co-op-slash-local-art-gallery next door.

The small but popular farmer’s market was a 12-minute walk away, in the parking lot of the Lake Wobegon trailhead. Please note that there is no lake on the Lake Wobegon trail; it’s a paved bike path named for Garrison Keillor’s fictional town made famous by “A Prairie Home Companion.” Before heading back to campus, I bought a basket of shiny, garnet-colored strawberries and a half dozen ears of sweet corn.

Walking from the Breuer section of campus to the more traditional grand-brick-side, I was struck by how much the area resembled small-town Sweden, with stone retaining walls, towering conifers, and swimmers of all ages doing laps in Lake Sagatagan. On an empty patch of grass surrounded by summertime hush, I read my book, eating the strawberries one by one, struck by the stillness of my usually peripatetic attention span.

P.S. The charms of St. John’s are endless. Go get yourself a loaf of Johnnie Bread; visit the daily 3 p.m. tea service at the pottery studio of Richard Bresnahan (a student of world-renowned ceramicist Takashi Nakazato); or plan to attend the bi-annual firing of the largest wood-burning kiln in North America. Bresnahan is expected to lead the next firing this fall.

St. Joseph Farmer’s Market

Address: 610 Stearns 2 County, St Joseph, MN 56374
Hours: Fridays only, 3-6 p.m.

Good to know: Most vendors took credit cards, but cash was universally preferred.

4:00 p.m.
Check into the abbey’s guesthouse

Just beyond the Abbey is the guesthouse, which offers single and double rooms as well as suites. Listen to me carefully: this is not a hotel. You are a guest of St. John’s monks. There are no TVs with endless cable channels and no room service. But the guesthouse is open to all who want to stay, regardless of religion or ability to pay.

The rooms are sparse but lovely, with natural oak floors and lake views. Think college dorm if your college dorm were designed by a famous architect and your roommate was a very clean monk instead of a Weezer-obsessed burnout who went by the mononym “Pudge”. A simple breakfast is included, and you can offer a modest amount to attend dinner and lunch. Religious art hangs on the walls, but there is no pressure to join in spiritual direction or church services. Like Marcel Breuer, I am Jewish, and I never once felt unwelcome.

Surrounding the guesthouse is the St. John’s Abbey Arboretum, a 2,500-acre nature preserve with many walking and skiing trails, including one that leads to a hidden chapel that you can also see from across Lake Sagatagan, poking out of the tree canopy like something from a fairy tale.

St. John’s Abbey Guesthouse

Address: 2380 Water Tower Rd, Collegeville, MN 56321

Good to know: Once again, this is not a hotel. Reservations are made over the phone or by email. The guesthouse fills up during reunion weeks, move-in week, parents’ weekend, etc. Look over the St. John’s academic calendar before you plan a trip and be please respectful of the monks’ hospitality.

Rates are suggested donations; please pay the full amount if you can afford it to keep the guesthouse accessible to all. When you check in, you will receive an offering envelope with the total of your stay written on the front. Before you check out, you fill out your offering form, put cash, a check, or your credit card information in the envelope, seal it, and hand it to the front desk. There is no tax on stays.

5:00 p.m.
Enjoy hard cider amongst the apples it’s made from

Milk & Honey is one of Minnesota’s foremost craft cideries, named USA Today’s best in the nation in 2021. Some think of cider as beer’s cloying sibling, but Milk & Honey’s ciders are more in line with the bone-dry traditions of Normandy’s brut ciders and England’s West Country style made from bittersharp apples.

Co-founder Peter Gillitizer says they use “unique cider and heirloom apples with expressive aroma, body, mouthfeel, acid and tannins that elevate the beverage.”

Best of all, you can gaze upon the orchards from which the cider originates while you drink it. Milk & Honey’s patio is splendidly pastoral, with sunflowers springing from barrel planters, weathered benches surrounding a fire pit, and views of rolling farmland. I would have liked to order from their on-site restaurant, The North Table, but we had dinner reservations.

Milk & Honey Cider

Address: 11738 Co Rd 51, St Joseph, MN 56374
Hours: Open Friday-Saturday, noon-9 p.m.; Sunday, noon-6 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday, 4-9 p.m. Closed Mondays.

Good to know: They have a fun summer concert series. Mercifully, it is not right on top of the taproom, so if you’re not attending a concert, you don’t have to shout.

7:00 p.m.
Teleport to Nola for red beans and rice

Chefs are nostalgia freaks. Often, I’ve found that their love of food is secondary to a fixation on recreating a lost memory. Your insufferably pretentious ex-boyfriend would describe this as “madeleine de Proust,” referring to the passage from Swann’s Way when Proust’s unnamed narrator goes on a hunt for a perfect madeleine similar to the one his mother once gave him. Chefs, when you ask them about the origin of a dish or the inspiration for their restaurant, will usually cite a place and time before a taste.

At Krewe, the first thing your server will tell you is that the recipes you see on the menu are from Chef Mateo Mackbee’s grandfather, who was an itinerant cook in New Orleans. These recipes were handed down to his daughter, Mary Mackbee, the legendary and beloved former principal of Central High School in St. Paul. From Mary to Mateo. From Mateo to us.

And aren’t we lucky.

Krewe is one of the best restaurants in Minnesota, full stop, no questions asked. The food is exceptional, and the menu is surprisingly robust — abundant without losing focus. They are also incredibly thoughtful about allergies; our server brought co-owner and chef Erin Lucas to the table to walk us through anything that included crustaceans, an admittedly insane allergy to show up to a New Orleans-themed restaurant with.

There are classic New Orleans dishes without cheffy twists, like grandpa’s gumbo and old-bay seasoned shrimp with potatoes and corn. But there are also fried Brussels sprouts with chili vinegar (a pleasing deviation from the ubiquitous Momofuku fish-sauce version) and arrabiata gnocchi.

Creole cuisine is commonly misunderstood as mainly French-influenced, when in fact, it is mainly built on the foundations of African cooking. (Black chefs in New Orleans are beginning to directly address and reclaim this narrative.) Dishes like jambalaya are direct descendants of jollof rice. The name “gumbo” comes from “ki ngombo,” the West African word for “okra”. [SOURCE: https://www.jamesbeard.org/stories/the-african-roots-of-the-food-on-your-plate]

We are lucky to have a chef like Mackbee, who not only proudly represents his cooking as coming from the Black New Orleans tradition, but also includes yaka mein, a lesser-known Creole dish that’s influenced by the city’s Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants, encouraging diners to think expansively about what Creole cuisine is and can be. Chef Mackbee prepares his with smoked duck from Maple Leaf Farms, putting a Midwestern stamp on an otherwise southern dish.

It is a feat to build a menu that feels equal parts varied, original, and cohesive. But Krewe succeeds.

The meal starts with a gratis order of Chef Lucas’s exceptional homemade dinner rolls sprinkled with flaky salt, served with a smear of honey butter. In this “eight dollars for focaccia” economy, a touch of old-fashioned hospitality felt almost revelatory, especially one so above the usual perfunctory bread basket.

Krewe’s take on carne asada includes a swoop of complex salsa matcha cut by a tangle of escabeche, and the steak itself is 10 generous ounces with excellent bark, arriving perfectly temped and barely needing a steak knife to slice through it. The red beans and rice were rich and properly spiced, grounded by the clean vegetal taste of the holy trinity, properly thickened from the time-consuming process that comes from smashing the beans against the side of the pot as they cook (this releases the starch; otherwise, you end up with an overly liquid dish).

Please know that these are not Midwestern takes on Creole cuisine. If I can offer you a shred of street cred, my father is from Louisiana, and we visited New Orleans somewhat often, so I know my way around a crawfish boil and a Styrofoam container of red beans. Portions at Krewe are generous, and I regretted that we didn’t have room for maque choux, fried green tomatoes with local AmaBlu cheese, or smoked and grilled half chicken with Alabama white barbecue sauce.

But dessert is a requirement.

As tempted as I was by the praline bread pudding, it was Chef Lucas’s beignets that won out. I have iconoclastic beignet opinions. Mainly, I think Café Beignet is better than Café Du Monde. But Lucas manages to combine the best of both: the fluffy, tender interior of Café Beignet (no overdeveloped gluten here!) with the proper, playing-card sizing of Café Du Monde.

At the end of the night, Chef Mackbee made his rounds to tables of regulars. He and Chef Lucas are not the type of owners who have passed off the actual cooking to a chef de cuisine. Even though they have a bakery, food hall, and smashburger truck, they were both on the line.

They chose this life, they say. They want the best for their workers, the farmers they source from, and the community. They offer a $3 menu option to “buy the kitchen a beer,” a charmingly low-pressure way to close the well-known pay gap between the front and back of house.

In other words, it’s bigger than the madeleines.

P.S. We have the recipe for Chef Mackbee’s outstanding shrimp bisque. You’re welcome!

Krewe

Address: 24 College Ave N Ste 104, St. Joseph, MN 56374
Hours: Open Wednesday, 4-10 p.m.; Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-10 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Good to know: Happy hour runs Wednesday through Friday, from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. They will be very, very nice even if you show up with a shrimp allergy.

DAY THREE

9:00 a.m.
Grab pastries at one of the nation’s best bakeries

One of the most difficult culinary skills in the world is mastering laminated pastry. But Erin Lucas makes it look easy. It’s no mystery that she landed on the NY Times’s Best 22 Bakeries in America list, and in her review of Flour & Flower, local food critic Kirstie Kimball wrote, “drive to St. Joseph for this and this alone.”

Not convinced yet? Maybe the thought of a lemon-blackcurrant Pop-Tart will get you. Or kimchi sourdough, sliced and ready to be brought home. Perhaps you’ll be delighted by the tangle of Hollyhocks flopping around the side of the tiny cottage the bakery calls home, or the painted florals on the pink wooden door.

Like its sister restaurant Krewe, Lucas has developed a menu that offers something for everyone without creating gustatory chaos. Little bags of sophisticated rosemary shortbread share shelf space with an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink cookie teeming with butterscotch and potato chips. There are sweet and savory pastries on offer. Sandwiches and pies line the cooler. There are even homemade dog treats.

This year, Flour & Flower added a pergola-covered patio behind the bakery, and we enjoyed our croissants and lattes surrounded by planters stuffed with nasturtiums, thyme, and salpiglossis. We were hardly the only ones – we arrived early, but the patio was already half full.

Flour & Flower

Address: 26 College Ave N Ste 104, St. Joseph, MN 56374
Hours: Open Friday-Sunday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Wednesday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-1 p.m.; Monday, 5-8 p.m. for pizza night. Closed Tuesday.

Good to know: A full fridge of soups, sandwiches, and whole pies is available for grab-and-go. If you have your heart set on something, get there early. They sell out.

10:30 a.m.
Gawk in awe at Munsinger Clemens Gardens

Someone once told me I should get a tattoo that says “will travel for gardens.” Guilty. I’m a Monty Don superfan. A regular at Highland Nursery. I give my colleagues frequent, unsolicited reminders to pull their creeping bellflower. I even wrote a guide to home gardening in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area.

But somehow, I’d never been to Munsinger Clemens Gardens. St Cloud’s crown jewel, the gardens are bifurcated by Riverside Drive, where you’ll find ample free parking. On the west side, with beautiful views of the Mississippi River, is Munsinger Gardens (named for Joseph Munsigner, an influential former parks superintendent who drew the original garden plan).

Munsinger is the more relaxed, cottage-style garden. It’s also wooded, and relies heavily on shade-friendly plants like hostas, snakeroot, and hydrangeas. Portions of the garden also incorporate the traditional cottage garden practice of weaving edibles amongst the ornamentals, so you’ll see kale and rainbow chard bursting up in between annual blumink, sunset-colored agastache, and zinnias.

The more formal side, Clemens (named for the gardens’ benefactors), is divided into sections, or “rooms,” most of them anchored by a center fountain. These include a treillage garden with a wisteria and clematis-covered arbor, a white garden inspired by Vita Sackville West’s famous version at Sissinghurst in Kent, England, and a rose garden, with both shrub and tea roses – all labeled. For me, the highlights were the long pathway lined with airy verbena bonariensis, a rooguchi clematis wound into the arbor, and the delicate sprays of dwarf guara in the white garden.

If you haven’t been, it’s well worth a visit, especially if you plan on posting up at a bench with a scoop of locally-made Jupiter Moon ice cream (sold in Clemens Garden) and staying a while to enjoy yourself.

Munsigner Clemens Gardens

Address: 1515 Riverside Dr SE, St. Cloud, MN 56304
Hours: Daily, 7 a.m.-10 p.m.

Good to know: Free! If I had more time, I would have brought a book and stayed all day.

A couple of other things to keep in mind:

(1) You could easily turn this itinerary into a day trip by splitting the pizza farm and St. Joseph parts.

(2) You could also flip and reverse it by heading to Collegeville on a Friday; hitting the farmer’s market and Krewe first; continuing onto St. Cloud Saturday morning; getting to Alpha and Omega for their Saturday pizza night; and coming home Sunday.

Check out more things to do in Minnesota’s Central Lakes region, including stops in the Brainerd Lakes Area, Otter Tail County, Alexandria and one of the country’s top mountain biking destinations.

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The pressure of planning the perfect summer for kids can be overwhelming and take the fun out of it all. Sometimes all you need is a road trip that’s less than an hour away from home. And some of the best road trip memories happen along the way — like a giant steaming Swedish coffee pot (but more on that later.)

If you’re looking for a local summer day trip, steal my itinerary to Lindstrom, Schafer, and Taylors Falls in the St. Croix River Valley to find the best Swedish pastries, larger-than-life sculptures, a classic drive-in, ancient potholes, and maple syrup milkshakes.

— Caitlin Hannah

9:15 a.m.
Snag some of the best Swedish pastries

We arrived at the charming Lindström Bakery shortly after 9 a.m. on a weekday, and it was already packed with locals catching up over donuts and coffee — their mid-morning “fika,” as the Swedes say.

The Scandi-inspired space is filled with natural light and warm woods. The pastry cases were filled with rows of delicious-looking donuts, including a popular Scandinavian-style (slightly crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside) that Food & Wine named Minnesota’s best.

They don’t stop at donuts, either. Lindström also specializes in several kinds of fruit-flavored scones, cookies, cupcakes, and Swedish-inspired goods like cardamom and cinnamon buns with pearl sugar. It was hard to choose; I wish we had a table with more friends so we could have a smorgasbord of sweets.

I took it as a sign of good luck that I got the last lingonberry bismarck filled with Holland vanilla cream, dusted with powdered sugar, and topped with a large dollop of lingonberry jam. My toddler obviously picked the vanilla donut with rainbow sprinkles. We snagged a table in the corner with a view of the vibrant mural outside.

Once the morning rush cleared, the warm and friendly staff visited with us and mentioned there are five hot dogs hidden throughout the mural — a nod to the giant hot dog on the roof of Deutschland Meats across the street. The mural also includes tributes to the area, such as the Karl Oskar House, a cup of coffee, several water elements celebrating the area’s love of lake life, Ojibwe beadwork, and cyclists.

Lindström Bakery

Address: 12830 Lake Blvd, Lindstrom, MN 55045
Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday, 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; and Sunday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Closed Mondays.

Good to Know: Some of the most popular items will sell out. If your heart is set on something in particular, get there early or call on your way to reserve your treats.

10 a.m.
See a steaming coffee pot, giant hot dog and colorful Dala horse

After we devoured our donuts, we stepped outside to admire the mural and try to find the hot dogs hidden throughout. Before we knew it, it was 10 a.m., and the charming Lindstrom water tower that’s shaped like a coffee pot and adorned with colorful rosemaling was all steamed up and ready to pour out to the delight of my kiddo. The steam appears every day at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. during the summer months after the community hit their fundraising goal to keep it running in 2025. You can read the full story of the coffee pot here on the city’s website.

As we walked down the street to see the giant Dala horse — another recommendation from our friends at the bakery — she kept asking to go back and see the coffee pot. Lindstrom was becoming my toddler’s new favorite town.

10:30 a.m.
Stock up on reading material at Bruyere Books & Tea

Our next stop was nearby Bruyere Books and Tea, as we always like to stop into bookstores on our adventures; it’s an easy souvenir I know we will use. The shop opened early that day, and we were greeted by Jessica, the friendly owner and Sir Wiggelsworth, an adorable boxer dog.

This recently opened LGBTQ+- and Indigenous-owned shop was so cozy, with moody lighting and plush reading chairs. The shelves were stocked and had a special focus on queer and neurodivergent voices and local authors.

I appreciated the wide aisles, especially while wrangling a toddler who loves books. Once we finally decided on a book, the owner helped my daughter ring it up, which made her feel so special.

Bruyere Books & Tea

Address: 12814 Lake Blvd, Lindstrom, MN 55045
Hours: Open Wednesday-Thursday, noon-6 p.m.; Friday, noon-7 p.m.; and Saturday-Sunday, noon-6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Good to Know: Free street parking is available in the front, and there’s a free parking lot behind the building.

10:30 a.m.
Shop throughout Main Street

Downtown Lindstrom is filled with locally owned shops and dotted with large hanging baskets filled with pink petunias that look like giant gumballs. There’s the Tackle Box (ice cream, not live bait), Deutschland Meats, The Flower Shop, Ghosts in the Attic (not a jump scare, just antiques), The Oven Mitt kitchen and specialty foods store, and more.

Of course, we had to stop into the Swedish Gift Store with its cheery bright blue and yellow exterior. The shop was filled with art, home goods, clothing, books, artwork, and dozens of colorful Swedish dishcloths. They had a great selection of the popular Swedish candies, too. Swedish candy has gained enormous popularity in recent years due to its ingredients, textures, and adoration on social media.

As we drove through the area, we noticed colorful barn quilts that adorned the sides of shops, buildings, businesses, and farms. Barn quilts are large and colorful pieces of wood or metal that are designed to look like a single fabric quilt block. We picked up a guide at the bakery that lists all 73 spots. (You can also view the list online.) The goal of the trail is to celebrate the area’s Swedish heritage, showcase talents of local artists, and add a splash of color to area businesses, attractions, and historical sites.

Throughout our day, we made a game out of spotting them all. I especially loved the quilts that leaned into a theme, like the quilt with the colorful houses outside the local realty office. If you’re a mural hunter, we found several photo-worthy spots, including a Swedish flag and a mural depicting the history of the town.

Swedish Gift Store

Address: 12734 Lake Blvd, Lindstrom, MN 55045
Hours: Open Monday-Friday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Good to know: Free street parking is available, and pedestrian crosswalks are easy to navigate.

11:30 a.m.
See larger-than-life sculptures

I could have spent more time in downtown Lindstrom, but it was time to head over to nearby Schafer to explore Franconia Sculpture Park. The park is about 10-minutes down Highway 8, and passes through Center City, home of Nordic Harbor, another Scandi-inspired spot that’s been named one of the best spots to dine by the water in Minnesota.

Franconia Sculpture Park sits on 60 acres and features more than 100 larger-than-life sculptures and public art pieces that can be viewed year-round. They also offer a robust artist-in-residence program. We saw two artists busy at work welding various metal pieces during our visit. The park is celebrating its 30^th anniversary in 2026. Franconia is a donation-based park, and they make it very easy to donate with a QR code upon arrival and cash boxes throughout the park.

Start at Franconia Commons, the visitors center, to pick up a map and other info about the art, including scavenger hunts and eye-spy sheets for the kids. They also had a top-notch gift shop, ice-cold water, and a large and clean family restroom.

Surrounded by lush prairies, we saw many wildflowers in bloom and dozens of butterflies and other pollinators. With toddler legs, we barely scratched the surface of their impressive collection, but some of our highlights were climbing to the top of the Fannie May Salter Salute by Dane Winkler, with a birds-eye view of the park and exploring the Playstation by Bridget Beck, a colorful wood and steel structure filled with tunnels, mini slides, and swings.

As we were getting ready to leave, we saw many families enjoying lunch on the picnic tables.

Franconia Sculpture Park

Address: 29836 St. Croix Trail, Shafer, MN 55074

Hours: Grounds open daily, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Franconia Commons open daily, May 4-Nov. 14, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Friday-Sunday, Nov. 15-May 3, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Closed on national holidays.

Good to know: There is no admission fee to explore Franconia Sculpture Park. Visitors are encouraged to make a donation through a QR code on display, in orange cash boxes throughout the park, or inside the Franconia Commons building.

12:45 P.M.
Step back in time at The Drive In Restaurant

We had a late lunch, but The Drive In restaurant in Taylors Falls was still buzzing, especially for a Wednesday afternoon. The staff is young and friendly, with many servers donning colorful 50’s-style poodle skirts and some of the best French and bubble braids I have ever seen.

We scored a spot near the cheery mural of a root beer mug, with views of the popular car-hop service. Our server was still friendly and attentive even though it was busy.

My daughter requested cheese curds (smart kid) and a corn dog, and I was impressed that the kids’ meal came with fruit or fries, a cookie, a drink, and a 2-for-1 coupon for mini golf for just 6.99. I ordered the All-American burger basket because I can’t pass up burger sauce and a frosty mug of homemade root beer. The hand-packed patty came neatly wrapped in parchment paper with crinkle fries and a crispy pickle spear.

We both happily ate our lunches and enjoyed the gorgeous sunny summer day after our recent 90°+ heatwave. We didn’t have time for mini golf, but I hope to come back this fall to use our coupon and soak up the fall colors in the area.

The Drive In Restaurant

Address: 572 Bench Street, Taylors Falls, MN 55084

Hours: Open seasonally Monday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Good to know: Free street parking is available on Bench Street near the restaurant. Plan ahead if you want to go mini golfing, as it can get busy.

2:00 P.M.
Go on an adventure at Interstate State Park

Just over a mile away is Interstate State Park on the St. Croix River, one of Minnesota’s most distinctive state parks due to its geology. Park-goers can climb the trails to see the impressive potholes carved into the rocks by swirling sand and water thousands of years ago. Some trails offer built-in railings for extra stability. Over 200 potholes of various sizes are found at the park, including the 60-foot deep “Bottomless Pit”, the world’s deepest explored pothole.

Once we arrived, we applied another layer of sunscreen, filled our water bottles, and grabbed my daughter’s magnifying glass. A purchase from the Como Zoo gift shop this winter, it has quickly become the best way to keep her engaged on hikes.

10/10 recommend.

We ventured down the paved trail and were greeted by a large group of kids of all ages, rock climbing, which stopped my toddler in her tracks. The cheerful instructors introduced themselves from Big River Climbing Guides out of Winona and said that when she’s old enough, she can join the fun, which immediately made her day.

We eventually made our way down to the river, just in time to see the iconic Taylors Falls Scenic Boat Tours paddleboat passing by. We admired the rocky cliffs and the river, waved hello to Wisconsin, and with her new boost of confidence, we went “rock climbing” on the rocky trails, explored the rock formations or “caves” as she would call them, and examined the large rock formations with her magnifying glass.

On our way out, we stopped to watch the climbers and say goodbye to our new friends. Before we left, she said, “Sign me up next time!” so I think I need to plan our next adventure.

Interstate State Park

Address: 29836 St. Croix Trail, Shafer, MN 55074
Hours: Open daily, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Ranger Station open Monday-Wednesday, noon-4 p.m.; Thursday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Visitor Center open Thursday-Monday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
Admission: $7 parking / $35 for a year (valid for all State Parks)

Good to know: If you’re a member of the Minnesota State Parks Hiking Club, there’s a trail in the park for you to check off your list.

Before we headed home, we needed a little sweet treat. Just outside Interstate State Park is downtown Taylors Falls, lined with antique shops, coffee shops, restaurants, and gift shops. Schoony’s Malt Shop and Pizzeria was the spot.

Once we walked in the door, we were surrounded by vintage decor, signs, gumball and trinket machines, mechanical rides for kids, and a classic soda shop vibe. As we were admiring the space, a motorcyclist decked out in full motorcycle gear said to us, “I feel like I just stepped back in time — in a good way!”

The chalkboard menu sign listed a variety of floats, malts, shakes, and more.

The frozen case had rows of Kemps ice cream, including Mackinaw Fudge, M&Ms, Oreo, and more. If you were craving scooped ice cream, it may be tough to decide on one of their many flavors, but a toddler cannot resist the technicolor vibes of the classic Superman ice cream. I ordered a maple syrup shake, something I have never tried. It was sweet in just the right way and was topped with whipped cream and a bright red maraschino cherry.

We could have spent much more time exploring this place, or playing a few rounds of pinball, and it would be a great spot to bring the grandparents for a dose of nostalgia.

Schoony’s Malt Shop and Pizzeria

Address: 384 Bench St, Taylors Falls, MN 55084
Hours: Open daily, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.

Good to know: Bring cash to avoid a credit card fee and quarters for pinball and trinket machines.

Lindstrom, Franconia Sculpture Park and Taylors Falls are in Minnesota’s St. Croix River region. See more things to do in the St. Croix River Valley, and a guide to outdoor activities in the area.

Whether you’re searching for sculpture parks, astounding roadside attractions or towering wooden trolls, Minnesota has no shortage of stellar public art.

One of its most impressive outdoor collections is scattered throughout St. Paul’s Creative Enterprise Zone. An epicenter of cultural expression and entrepreneurship between University Avenue and Vandalia Tower, it’s peppered with contemporary murals from the annual Chroma Zone festival that started off strong in 2019 and returns for another round of live painting and related programming on Sept. 17-19.

To get a sense of the event’s scale and scope, we decided to spend a day wandering the neighborhood in search of the 73 (!) pieces currently on display, as well as nearby restaurants, stores, small businesses and brands that share their independent spirit.

Better put on your plushest pair of sneakers; we’ve got some walking to do. Don’t feel like you literally need to see everything in one day, though. While we gladly gave it a go, the CEZ has plenty of reasons to circle back another morning, afternoon or evening. Here are a few we enjoyed firsthand.

– Andrew Parks

8:30 a.m.
Grab breakfast at Trung Nam French Bakery

Before hitting the ground running with a fully charged smartphone, may we suggest a round of robust Vietnamese coffee (properly iced and sweetened with condensed milk) and pristine French pastries from Trung Nam? A family-owned Frogtown favorite since 1989, it specializes in flaky, buttery croissants that can be enjoyed au naturel or gussied up with generous fillings of fruit, coconut, almond, and chocolate.

Trung Nam also excels at baguettes that crackle beneath your teeth before giving way to a soft, pillowy interior. They can either be stuffed with a classic bành mì combo (pork, cilantro, jalapeño, mayo, pickled carrots and pâté) on-site — a savory breakfast staple in Vietnam for a reason — or saved for later in long or short loaves.

Trung Nam French Bakery

Address: 739 University Ave W, St Paul, MN 55104
Hours: Open 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Good to Know: Trung Nam’s baguette game is so strong that Asian Duck, Trieu Chau and The French Hen have all logged their fair share of wholesale orders.

9 a.m.
Park and walk, rather than ride

There’s no right or wrong way to rock Chroma Zone’s clusters of international street art. Start by opening the organizers’ custom Google Map — dots are broken down by year in the side panel — and picking a starting point surrounded by official murals.

To get your steps in and work up an appetite, look for legal street parking near the intersection of Raymond and University avenues. Thanks to the neighborhood’s sleepy industrial stretches, it’s easy to find a space within reasonable walking distance of enough murals to keep you busy for a couple of hours.

Our favorites include the wrap-around ivy web of Chroma Zone co-founder Mike Davis (a tip of the spray can to nature outlasting all of us, including graffiti), the bold colors and cartoon-like creatures of Birdcap (“Flowers for the Friends Who Picked Me Up”) and Jose Dominguez (“Clubhouse City”) and the intersecting Hmong and American experiences of Kao Lee Thao’s “Our Common Threads.”

Don’t miss the one-two punch of Hend Al-Mansour’s “Coming Home” and Danielle SeeWalker’s “Dakȟóta Ancestors”, either; they brighten the same building and reflect the artists’ respective Islamic and Indigenous roots.

11 a.m.
Cool off at Workhorse Coffee Bar

If you end up mural hunting on a day as humid and/or hot as we did, head straight for the refreshing specials at Workhorse Coffee Bar. This summer has featured such immediate standouts as a raspberry-and-hibiscus fizz, a hand-squeezed lemonade hit with house-made blueberry syrup, and a vanilla-kissed Thai iced tea.

We were personally thrilled to see a switchel on the menu — a bright, not-too-sweet balance of ginger, apple cider vinegar, water, and honey.

Workhorse Coffee Bar

Address: 2399 University Ave W, St Paul, MN 55114
Hours: Open 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday; 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Good to Know: Don’t miss the Smallest Museum in St. Paul on your way out the door. Kept in a vintage fire-horse cabinet, it’s quirky but never corny exhibits have spotlighted “Weird State Capitol Souvenirs,” the “Joys of Jell-O,” “LEGO Mosaics,” and many other microcosms of art, history, and idiosyncratic Atlas Obscura-isms.

11:30 a.m.
Dig for dynamite vinyl at Agharta Records

Everything you need to know about Agharta Records is right there in its name, a reference to the restless live record Miles Davis released in 1975. Critics either loved or loathed the double LP; Robert Christgau deemed it “angry, dissociated [and] funky,” and Robert Palmer compared Pete Cosey’s chaotic guitar to “a noisy machine shop.”

Gnarly jazz nod aside, Agharta is not the St. Paul version of the vicious store in the Nick Hornby novel “High Fidelity.” Much like the many other members of the Twin Cities’ strong vinyl scene, owner Dylan Adams is warm and welcoming, not jaded and judgmental. If anything, he seems driven by an innate desire to share albums we can all agree on, and a wide-ranging wealth of wild sounds.

Depending on the day, the new-release cubbies may include everything from welcome reissues of David Bowie, New Order, and the Ramones to the latest studio efforts from The Strokes, Charli XCX, and the Rolling Stones. Not to mention choice selections from the store’s considerable avant-garde collection.

As for its seemingly endless aisles of used vinyl, they can feel like a true treasure hunt. During our visit, we spotted a numbered box set from Art Blakey’s Jazz Messengers, long-out-of-print LPs from Tyler, the Creator, Aerosmith, Moby, Carly Simon, and the hardcore band Every Time I Die, and 7-inch singles from the likes of Bruce Springsteen, Iggy Pop, Father John Misty, and Lizzo.

Agharta Records

Address: 2512 University Ave W, St Paul, MN 55114
Hours: Open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Good to Know: Agharta updates its Discogs store regularly; browse its listings for a broad overview of what’s currently lurking within its crates. Adams also accepts trade-ins if you’d like to unload some old LPs and search for new sounds.

12:00 p.m.
Climb the Scoville rating scale at On’s Kitchen

Anyone who assumes “Minnesota spicy” begins and ends with a dash of delicate black pepper needs to experience the explosive Thai food of On’s Kitchen. Longtime chef-owner On Khumchaya isn’t kidding with the 1-to-10 range of hurt that’s offered throughout her sprawling repertoire. Go with a four if you’d like a little kick, a seven if you’d like a tongue lashing, and a 10 if you have something to prove and don’t mind the kitchen laughing about you later.

To be clear, On’s isn’t a gimmicky restaurant that makes you sign a waiver. They’re more interested in cooking incredible food than pushing your pain threshold. They offer a sliding pepper scale simply because that’s how Thai people eat — adjusting flavor profiles (a little fish sauce here, a little chili vinegar there) to one’s own preferences. And more importantly, they prepare both crowd-pleasers (pad thai, khao soi, fresh spring rolls) and rarely seen recipes with pride.

We typically run, don’t walk, to the special dishes section of Khumchaya’s menu. Today’s lunch revolved around generous portions of pad eggplant (stir-fried with pork, shrimp, bell peppers and Thai basil in a dark soybean sauce) and pad sa-thor (a Southern Thai star made with bitter stink beans, pork, shrimp, rainbow-hued bell peppers and a scintillating red curry sauce).

Other palate expanders include nam prik pla too (deep-fried mackerel with a Thai chili relish and steamed vegetables), kaeng som bae-saa (a tamarind-tinged, hot-and-sour, coconut-free curry), and pla louee suan (deep-fried tilapia draped in a bright mango and herb salad).

On’s Kitchen

Address: 1613 University Ave W, St Paul, MN 55104
Hours: Open 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Good to Know: Khumchaya’s daughter and son-in-law (Sa and Joel Krupinski) now run her business and operate a side hustle in St. Paul called On’s Thai Express.

1 p.m.
Wander the wondrous aisles of Ax-Man Surplus

On’s shares its block with one of St. Paul’s most iconic retailers: Ax-Man Surplus, a clearinghouse for curiosities that could be used in a scrappy indie film, psychedelic art project, or questionable science experiment. We’re talking dirt-cheap reflectors, switches, magnets, cords, hooks, containers, beakers, signs, corks, motors, and maybe a functioning iron lung and several other medical or industrial oddities.

Dig through the detritus long enough, and you’ll quickly realize that this isn’t where failed products and forgotten machinery go to die. For more than six decades now, it’s where they find a new life and become the epitome of repurposed humanity — a fitting detour for a mural-centric itinerary, really.

Ax-Man Surplus

Address: 1639 University Ave W, St Paul, MN 55104
Hours: Open 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday; noon-5 p.m. Sunday.

Good to Know: If you can’t get enough of its eccentricities, Ax-Man also has locations in Fridley and St. Louis Park.

1:15 p.m.
Snap a selfie in front of the world’s largest loon

Speaking of the street art we’re here to herald, here’s one last stop before sparking another round of urban exploration: “The Calling,” a skeletal Andy Scott sculpture that stands 32.5 feet tall and 89 feet wide in front of Allianz Field.

A toast to Minnesota’s haunting state bird and its MLS squad’s loony mascot, it’s one of those must-be-seen-to-believe monuments. More than just a big ol’ bird, it’s a feat of engineering — 5,000 individually welded stainless-steel feathers that welcome fans to the burgeoning neighborhood Minnesota United owner Bill McGuire is building with millions of his own investment dollars.

While it’s mostly a site for soccer games right now, construction is well underway on United Village’s boutique hotel, diner, pizza joint and office space. Definitely a corner to keep one’s eye on in the months and years ahead!

Allianz Field

Address: 400 Snelling Ave N, St Paul, MN 55104

Good to Know: Minnesota United FC’s schedule runs through November, which means that, yes, they sometimes play in the snow, leading many fans to literally shout “he’s just cold!” when opposing teams complain about fouls.

1:30 p.m.
Complete your crawl

Now that you’ve had a chance to eat, shop and hydrate, it’s time for the main event: a sweeping east-to-west survey of any essential businesses and murals you may have missed in the morning.

Start near Hampden Avenue and the Vandalia Tower complex, which boasts such beloved local ventures as Lake Monster Brewing, Hackwith Design House, the Scandi-inspired SK Coffee, and menswear mecca BlackBlue. It’s near such transformative stunners as Cadex Herrera’s “Pitzik’ Q’ij: Courts of the Sun”, a widescreen celebration of Maya culture; Biafra Inc.’s comic book-caliber “Crisis”; and “Celestial Embodiment: X,” a larger-than-life piece by Northern Arapaho and Kickapoo artist Missy Whiteman.

Smaller in scope but more suitable for everyday collectors are the many different styles and mediums Khanh Tran features throughout Dow Art Gallery on University Ave. The custom framer/curator packs more than 3,600 square feet of original work into St. Paul’s largest private space for paintings, sculpture and photography. Its latest exhibition, “A Prairie Stroll,” opens on Sept. 12 and promises an “immersive multimedia installation featuring dozens of hand-dyed panels of silk, linen, muslin, organza, and cotton gauze.... Visitors’ physical presence causes the panels to undulate, simulating the experience of walking through a tall grass prairie.”

Before leaving the east side, be sure to check out work by former Minnesotan Ewok (now based in Orange County, he is an internationally recognized graffiti artist whose work has shown up in Seoul, Tokyo, Dubai and Taiwan); local printmaker and Burlesque of North America co-founder Wes Winship; and WUNDR & Ryoe, who teamed up on a takeover of the Creative Enterprise Zone’s main office building.

The rest of your route should take you west and north towards the Wycliff complex — a space for local innovators within St. Paul’s Midway neighborhood — and the day’s last stop, Bang Brewing. Be sure to stop and stare at a significant mural by hip-hop heavyweight Cey Adams. The founding creative director of Def Jam used to roll in the same circles as Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring, which explains why Chroma Zone made “Love” its first official commission.

Other can’t-miss photo ops include Rock “Cyfi” Martinez’s “Spirit of Misi-zibi,”, Chuck U’s “Maritime Law,” Mariela Ajras’ massive “Motherhood and Migration,” and Max Sansing’s “The Magic Hour,” a vivid menagerie of flowers, saturated colors, and both realistic and abstract forms.

5 p.m.
Toast a day of photo taking at Bang Brewing

The Twin Cities and Greater Minnesota are so chock-full of craft breweries that it can be easy to overlook a smaller operation like the labor-of-love that Sandy and Jay Boss Febbo launched in 2013. In a move that was practical, symbolic and striking, the dynamic husband-and-wife duo built their organic brewery around a custom-built corrugated grain bin and a sustainable property of native prairie plantings, rain gardens and wind power.

Waste is also reduced by giving spent grain to a local farmer and packaging Bang’s small-batch beer in reusable glass bottles that help retain its natural carbonation and highlight its fresh, unfiltered character. Kernza — a perennial grain developed by the University of Minnesota and supported by the major outdoor brand Patagonia — is a cornerstone of their rotating ales, lagers, pilsners and IPAs, too, making Bang one of the state’s most progressive (and tasty!) breweries.

That mission carries over to Farina Rossa’s kitchen, which churns out chewy, wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas every night Bang is open. Look out for signatures like the Kirby (house-made sausage, marinara, pepperoni, basil, hot honey, jalapeño, parmesan, and a sublime cheese blend), farmers’ market reflections like Mushroom and Asparagus, and the minimalist tomato-and-cheese masterwork that is the Capreza.

If you’d like to down a non-alcoholic drink alongside your pizza, Bang shakes things up with sparkling water and Misfit Coffee Co. mixers that bring out the brash flavors typically found in a well-made shandy, michelada, or margarita. Not a bad way to wind down after walking through one of the Midwest’s most ambitious public art projects!

Herbst Eatery & Farm Stand is also in the area if you’d rather tease your appetite at Bang and settle into a long sit-down meal afterward. It’s seasonal, locally sourced eating that actually lives up to that long-overused tag. Chef Ben Moenster’s peak-of-summer plates have included a tomato tartine with whipped ricotta, mint pesto, chermoula, and Peruvian-style huacatay; Wild Acres duck breast with radishes, red wine jus, and a nettle and spinach purée; and a French curry made featuring grilled snap peas, hickory nuts, pea tendrils, and Shepherd’s Hope cheese.

And for dessert? How about a sponge cake starring lemon thyme mousse, blueberries, and buttermilk ice cream? Sign. Us. Up.

Bang Brewing

Address: 2320 Capp Rd, St Paul, MN 55114
Hours: Open 4-9 p.m. Wednesday; 3-9 p.m. Thursday; 3-10 p.m. Friday; 1-10 p.m. Saturday; and 2-9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Good to Know: If you’d like to do a quick craft-beer crawl, Urban Growler — Minnesota’s first women-owned microbrewery — is right next door to Bang, and the IPA icons over at BlackStack Brewing are just a five-minute drive away.

Chroma Zone is located in St. Paul’s Creative Enterprise District. Check out more things to do in the greater Minneapolis-St. Paul metro area, including some of the state’s best shopping, food and drink finds, family-friendly activities, and arts & culture.

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The Northwest Angle is not only the northernmost destination in the contiguous U.S., but also one of its most remote. Separated from the rest of Minnesota by the vast Lake of the Woods, it can be reached only by taking a 40-mile boat trip or crossing the Canadian border, driving north, and then heading back into the U.S.

All thanks to an 18th-century mapping error and the Treaty of Paris.

For me, remote was the point. I wanted an adventure free of cell service and traffic noise — somewhere I could hear myself think and be rewarded with everything from mind-bending historic sites to fantastic walleye fishing.

—Riley Hallaway

DAY ONE

11:00 a.m.
Take a pit stop for Philly Cheesesteak

I left the Twin Cities bright and early, making my first stop the Road Runner Bar & Grill in Kelliher, a small town about four hours north. That day, it was just the local UPS delivery driver and me grabbing lunch. I heeded my server’s recommendation to get a Philly cheesesteak, which came sizzling hot, with a side of super-crispy fries.

Fueled up, I got back in the car to make the last six hours of my drive.

Road Runner Bar & Grill
Address: 321 Clark Ave, Kelliher, MN 56650
Hours: Open 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Tuesday.

____

1:00 p.m.
Savor the scenery

As the idiom goes, it’s the journey, not the destination. The drive to the Northwest Angle took me through towering coniferous forests (biome nerds, unite) and a complex network of lakes.

A few passing thunderstorms seemed to draw out the local wildlife, and a small black bear darted across the road in front of me as I drove around Lower Red Lake. Fear not; both the cub and I were unharmed in the making of this itinerary.

____

6:40 p.m.
Clear customs and board a boat to paradise

There was no line at Canadian customs. The agent simply checked my passport, and I was on my way. By this time, I’d long lost cell service, so I’d recommend printing or downloading all your maps offline before you leave home.

After winding through gravel roads, I crossed back into Minnesota and headed up to Young Bay’s Resort. There, I checked in at the U.S. customs kiosk (located inside Jerry’s Restaurant and Lounge, where local fisherman were extolling their daily catches) and showed them my information.

Total time in Canada? Sixty-six minutes. You tell me whether or not that makes this an “international” trip.

Young’s Bay is one of the most popular starting points for fishing trips in this area. If you’re traveling to one of the many fishing resorts on Lake of the Woods, this is where you will park your car and be picked up by your fishing guide.

I purchased a parking pass from the resort, which cost about $9 for two nights, then made my way to the docks to be picked up via boat by Wyatt, whose family owns the fishing resort I’d be staying at. On the way to the docks, I passed the famous stone buoy statue that marks the northernmost point in the contiguous U.S.

Fun fact: you’ll find a nearly identical marker in Key West, Florida, marking the southernmost point. Traveling between them would be an epic road trip.

Young’s Bay Resort
Address: 7600 Young's Bay Dr NW, Angle Inlet, MN 56711
Hours: Open 7 a.m.–8 p.m. daily. Closed throughout November and April.

____

8:15 p.m.
Reach an island fishing resort

Fresh out of high school, Wyatt told me he had been working in the family business forever. After about a 15-minute boat ride, we arrived at his family’s fishing resort, The Inn at Hennum’s Oak Island Lodge. Hennum’s is truly remote, and while cell service was spotty, the wi-fi signal was great.

After dropping my bags in my room, Wyatt gave me a quick tour of the resort. I’m used to hearing the hum of traffic daily. But at Hennum’s, the only sounds were trees rustling, birds chirping, and calm waves lapping the shore.

The lodge is a true log cabin-style building. It’s cozy, inviting, and offers a great view of the lake no matter where you sit. The menu at the restaurant featured classic American bar food and local favorites like walleye.

I was in the mood for something greasy and heavy, so I opted for the Smokehouse Burger with fries.

Hennum’s Oak Island Lodge
Address: 820 Oak Island, Lake of the Woods, MN 56741
Hours: Open daily from 7–10 a.m. for breakfast, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. for lunch, and 5–9 p.m. for dinner.

____

DAY TWO

7:30 a.m.
Reel it in on a guided fishing trip

I will be the first to admit I’m not an expert angler, but I met Wyatt at the docks the next morning for a fishing excursion, excited and ready to learn. I already knew I was in safe hands, but when I noticed Wyatt didn’t need to look at the route he’d plotted on the boat’s GPS, I felt doubly reassured.

The skies were overcast, and the lake was a little choppy, but Wyatt told me that made for better fishing. “It wakes them up,” he said.

We stopped just off the coast of an island. “Look over there,” Wyatt said, gesturing behind me. I turned to see a dozen or more fishing boats speeding toward us in formation, confirming our choice of fishing spot.

Sure enough, no more than five minutes after dropping my line in the water, I had a bite. It was a sauger, a common fish closely related to walleye.

“Not something we usually keep,” Wyatt told me.

Wyatt added new bait to my hook for me, and I dropped my line in the water again. Not long after, I had another bite. This one felt huge. As I pulled it to the surface, Wyatt grabbed the net. It was a 26-inch walleye!

“I’ll keep that one,” Wyatt said, “Nice catch.”

As I looked around at the fleet of boats nearby, I saw other anglers reeling in fish, one after another. Wyatt was fishing too. He got a bite and told me to come over and reel this one in for him as he grabbed the net. This one I had to use my whole body to pull up (and I am not a small person).

As it hit the surface, Wyatt pulled it into the boat with the net: a 36-inch northern pike, the biggest fish I’ve ever caught.

All credit to Wyatt, though. He was the one who hooked it.

____

11:30 a.m.
Eat lunch and live that lake life

After another hour or two pulling in walleye and sauger, Wyatt brought me back to the island. I grabbed a quick lunch at the lodge and took a long, peaceful walk around the resort grounds, then relaxed by the shore, knowing I had a jam-packed schedule the following day.

____

WEDNESDAY

8:00 a.m.
Get some hands-on time with real northern history

Joe Laurin lives in a custom-built lighthouse with his dog, Mia, and I was lucky enough to join one of his private history boat tours of Lake of the Woods. They picked me up on a perfect, sunny 70-degree morning.

As we made our way across the lake, Joe told me about all the unique sites on the islands: 19^th-century settlements, World War II POW camps, petroglyphs, pictographs, abandoned gold mines, and more.

He also took me to “Cheerio Beach,” an island where the small rocks on the shore develop holes in their middles — hence the name.

Magnuson’s Island was our next stop. This island is home to Fort St. Charles, a settlement built by French explorer and fur trader Sieur De La Verendrye in 1732, which was abandoned in the 1750s after the French-Indian War.

In 1960, the Minnesota Fourth Degree Knights of Columbus restored the fort. Visiting it solo was both insanely cool and slightly spooky.

____

12:30 p.m.
Mimic a spy movie at the Canadian border

With my tour completed, I said goodbye to Wyatt, Joe and Mia, packed up my car at Young’s Bay and started my journey back to Minneapolis. The border checkpoint on the Canadian side isn’t your standard kiosk, but a phone booth along a dirt road in the middle of the woods. The windows were plastered with stickers from travelers.

On the wall of the phone booth was a black box. No need to dial a number. Wondering if I’d been secretly teleported into the middle of a Bond movie, I picked it up and was connected to Canadian customs.

After giving them my passport information, I was on my way to Warroad.

____

2:00 p.m.
See some classic cars at the Shed

The Shed is a classic car collection featuring nearly 100 unique cars, including a 1933 Lincoln that Franklin D. Roosevelt rode in during his 1939 presidential campaign and a 1960 Corvette that was the first of the year off the production line.

After picking out my future dream vehicle, I returned to my (totally adequate, but way less fun) KIA and stopped at Lake of the Woods Coffee Company for a pick-me-up. I opted for the sweet cream cold brew. It was a perfect drink for the 80-degree day.

The Shed
Address: 1099 State Ave N, Warroad, MN 56763
Hours: According to its official site, “We love our visitors… If the green light is on, feel free to stop in, even if it's after hours.”

Lake of the Woods Coffee Company
Address: 102 Lake St NE Warroad, MN 56763
Hours: Open 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 7 a.m.–4 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.

The Northwest Angle is located in Minnesota’s North Lakes District. Check out more things to do in the area, including soaking up dark skies, hunting for humongous trolls, and posing with Paul and Babe.

I am not claiming to be a cool country gal. While I love the outdoors, I definitely enjoy it with modern-day amenities. But when my daughter started showing an interest in The Little House picture book series, well …I hitched up the covered wagon (fueled up the car) and took her to Southwest Minnesota’s Prairielands region, where Laura lived. Our mission? To see the annual Wilder Pageant in Walnut Grove.

Laura Ingalls Wilder may have only lived in Walnut Grove, Minnesota from 1874 to 1876 and again from 1877 to 1879, but with her book series still in print, the cult-like following of the 1970s TV series, and now Netflix’s new reimagining (anyone else bingeing it?), her legacy is alive and thriving.

So pack your bonnets, your outdoor boots, and whatever mosquito remedy your family lives by (for me, it’s calamine lotion; for my little, it’s Band-Aids) and let’s travel back to the 1870s.

— B Schneider

DAY ONE

11:00 A.M.
Jump right into the time period with authentic sod houses

Although the Ingalls family did not actually live in Sanborn, Minnesota, this site was built to recreate the living conditions Laura described in her books. In 1987, the current owner’s father built a wealthy family’s and a poor family’s sod house with only tools, materials and furnishings from the time. I’m glad this was our first intro to “pioneer living,” as most of the sod houses in the surrounding area are in museums and not actually functional.

The “rich” house had wooden floor planks, multiple beds, and designated areas for play, work, and food. Drastically different, the “poor” sod house was incredibly small (dare I say claustrophobically so?), with dirt floors and a low loft for extra sleeping space and storage. On the property, there is also a small hunting lodge with a challenging scavenger hunt that kept my little one engaged.

A family visiting at the same time wheeled out a cooler and enjoyed a picnic in the middle of the prairie, and I wish I had thought of that. Instead, we grabbed a dipped ice cream cone from the Dairy Queen on the corner before getting back on the road.

Sod House on the Prairie
Address: 12598 Magnolia Ave. Sanborn, MN 56083
Hours: Daily 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. (Spring, Summer, Fall)
Admission: $5 Cash or Venmo
Good to know: The website is a tad outdated: no one currently lives in the house (in fact, you can rent it over at Airbnb), and there weren’t any bonnets/dresses to dress up in. You can now also experience an overnight in “Soddy” via Airbnb, but visitors begin at 10 a.m., so there’s a hard out every day.

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1:00 P.M.
Enjoy the party at Pelican Cove

Pelican Cove restaurant on Lake Shetek is actually on a peninsula, and it was enjoyable being surrounded by water on both sides of the road leading to it. The restaurant felt like our own little Margaritaville with kitschy beach decor, a stellar drink menu, and laid-back atmosphere. The massive patio with a beautiful view of the lake really caught my eye, but unfortunately, it was lightly raining.

While we waited for our food, we counted how many pelicans were in the restaurant (my daughter challenges you to do the same, we found 26). I ordered the fish tacos with their Golden Cove sauce (their take on Chick-fil-A sauce) — a new twist on tacos that left me wanting another round.

Pelican Cove on Lake Shetek
Address: 21 Valhalla Dr, Slayton, MN 56172
Hours: Daily 11 a.m. - 1 a.m.
Good to know: Motel and RV campsites are available if you’d like to keep the good times rolling.

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2:00 P.M.
Put on your conductor hat for the End-O-Line Railroad Park and Museum

As we drove into Currie, Mo’ than Antiques looked like a promising stop, but my kid had trains on the brain. The guided tours at End-O-Line Railroad Park and Museum run on the half hour, so we spent time in the old schoolhouse beforehand.

Chalk slates, pull-down maps, and 3D globes were fascinating to my 4-year-old, which immediately made this “wait time” fly by. I also personally learned that most schools were required to hang portraits of George Washington and Abe Lincoln in their classroom during that time. Who knew?

While the guided tour is optional, it felt worth it to me as you’re given unique access to some features - our favorite was having the guide turn us around on the turntable as they would do for a train. Yes, we made chuga-chuga sound effects as we rotated.

We could have spent another hour playing on the playground and touring the remaining buildings on the property, but the little one was losing some steam, to which she replied grouchily, “I’M NOT A TRAIN, MOM.” Hey, at least she learned the trains ran on steam. Guess she did listen during the tour :)

End-O-Line Railroad Park and Museum
Address: 440 North Mill Street, Currie, MN 56123
Hours: Wed.-Sun. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Admission: $7 for adults, $5 for kids 6-17. Kids 5 and under are free.
Good to know: Be sure to use “North Mill Street” in your GPS to avoid incorrect directions. Guided tours start on the half hour, but are subject to staff availability, so call ahead to request a tour.

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5:00 P.M.
Go off-grid in a real settler’s cabin

Have you ever experienced a host who immediately welcomed you like family? Sunny at Merryweather Farm is that kind of person. As we pulled in from a long day of driving, Sunny met us with a warm smile, four happy dogs, and freshly baked zucchini bread.

I think she could tell I was a little out of my element (again — city girl) and helped us acclimate to the farm. She even took my kid on a walk around the grounds to introduce her to the chickens, turkeys, ducks and let her pick eggs for the piggies.

In addition to tending to the animals and running an Airbnb, Sunny also grows an impressive amount of vegetables. We were about three weeks too early to enjoy her barn becoming a shelter for a wide variety of drying garlic, but will I be finding a way to buy them once they’re ready? Yes, yes I will.

Sunny’s place is a true pioneer experience. She found the structure on her property, rolled it to where it is now, gave it a proper foundation and began fixing it up. While she was repairing the rotted wood walls, she found a paper used as insulation dated 1880!

I did temporarily panic when my kiddo had a meltdown over the lack of plumbing in the cabin. But we turned everything into a game — washing her feet with the bucket outside ended up being her favorite part of the evening.

To be clear: there is a fully functional bathroom attached to the main house with a decadent tub and rainfall showerhead. And if you wanted to go “full pioneer” for your trip, the outhouse was the cleanest outhouse I have ever been in.

Historic 1880 Settler Cabin
Address: Merryweather Farm in Walnut Grove
Good to know: It was actually quite comfortable at night, even without any A/C, but if you plan to spend more time on the property during the day, handheld fans would be wise items to pack. Also, this is about 10 minutes north of the town and on a dirt road. If your GPS tells you to go down a road with a sign reading, “THIS ROAD IS NOT REGULARLY MAINTAINED,” do not continue to listen to your GPS in your small car unless you enjoy the thrill of pushing it out of mud. Actual footage of me.

DAY TWO

8:00 A.M.
Stay awhile at Main Stay Cafe

After waking up early to a delightfully boisterous rooster, we made our way to the town of Marshall and popped into Main Stay Café. This place had it all: small town banter, a wide variety of pastries, calming morning music, and chatty customers riding up on bikes to get their morning brew. We made ourselves at home at the circular table in front and played a few board games before hitting the ground running.

Main Stay Cafe & Coffee Co.
Address: 316 West Main St, Marshall, MN 56258
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m. - 3 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m. - 2 p.m., Sun. Closed

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10:00 A.M.
Go on an adventure at Camden State Park

We chose to hike the Dakota Valley Trail in an attempt to find the Hiking Club password1 and I was pleasantly surprised that my kiddo made it 80% of the way. The beginning of the path is fairly wooded with mini waterfalls, but as we got closer to the prairie, the trees became less clustered and seemed to grow in almost arched-like formations.

Soon we “I Spyed” butterflies flying around us, bees buzzing in the milkweed, and birds perched on the thick grasses. The prairie portion of the hike is the star of the show. Every few feet, we were stopping to point out new flowers, a new animal or a new sound.

After piggybacking my little for a quarter mile, there was nothing more refreshing than taking a dip in the spring-fed pond and relaxing on the sandy beach. We happened to be there while a larger group was also present and they welcomed us into their fun of finding tadpoles between rocks and weeds.

Camden State Park
Address: 1897 Camden Park Road, Lynd, MN 56157
Hours: Daily 8 a.m. - 10 p.m., Ranger Station Mon.-Thurs. 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.
Admission: $7 parking / $35 for a year (valid for all State Parks)
Good to know: Minnesota State Parks offers a Passport Club and a Hiking Club, which are nice bonus activities at each new park visit.

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2:30 P.M.
You can’t go wrong with bubble tea at Hunan Lion

After staying a bit longer at the beach than originally planned, we arrived at Hunan Lion during an odd hour. We chose to skip a full meal and enjoy potstickers, shrimp dumplings and bubble teas instead.

No regrets; the Thai Iced Tea bubble tea was the pick-me-up I didn’t know I needed. Future me dreamt about this drink for the remainder of the trip.

Hunan Lion
Address: 228 W Main St, Marshall, MN 56258
Hours: Tues.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-9 p.m., Mon. Closed
Good to know: Pay at the counter when you’re ready to go.

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3:30 P.M.
Get your learn on at Lyon County Museum

While Laura’s family never made it to this area, Almanzo (Laura’s husband) farmed in Ghent for a year before heading to South Dakota. On a mission, we went straight to the pioneer displays. We could interact with the items in the log cabin, and this was our first chance to witness how small those covered wagons really were.

There is a lot of historical information to read along the walls, which I read aloud to my kid as she asked question after question about the grasshoppers that devoured the pioneers’ crops for almost four years.

Lyon County Museum
Address: 301 West Lyon Street, Marshall, MN 56258
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., Sat. 12-4 p.m., Sun. Closed
Admission: Donation
Good to know: Pioneer displays and interactions are in the basement.

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4:00 P.M.
Pay your respects at Memorial Park

It’s only a quick walk to the beautifully landscaped and maintained 9/11 Memorial Park. If you think your child can handle a heavier topic, this is something to stroll through together. The statues, quotes and dedicated bricks helped steer our conversation around the tragedy and honor those who lost their lives and the people who sacrificed themselves to save others.

9/11 Memorial Park
Address: 101 E Main St, Marshall, MN 56258
Hours: 24/7
Admission: Free

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4:30 P.M.
Indulge your sweet tooth at Walnut Grove Mercantile

While known for its family’s gourmet honey cremes, the store itself is also chock-full of Minnesota giftables, decadent fudge, and old-timey stick candy. We spent a solid chunk of time combing for holiday and birthday gifts and, in the process, came home with a small package of irresistibly rich, melt-in-your-mouth, made-fresh-daily, chocolate fudge for ourselves. This was the first time my little tried fudge and I fear she may never again find fudge that will live up to this.

Also, how adorable is the outside of this store? Someone ride a horse up to that hitching post, stat.

Walnut Grove Mercantile
Address: 1501 East Lyon Street, Marshall, MN 56258
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sun. Closed

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6:00 P.M.
Become a regular at the Walnut Grove Bar & Grill

Most patrons were from the area, but they welcomed us with open arms and seemed genuinely thrilled when my kiddo decided to line dance in the walk space. The restaurant offers a typical bar menu. While I contemplated a wrap, I eventually spotted the “Ma Burger” and couldn’t say no. “Pa Burger” also available!

On our way out, we discovered the “Pioneer Game.” Some clever people have taken to hiding pioneer fact sheets around for a town-wide scavenger hunt. Name at least 15 when you enter the Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum to get a prize!

Walnut Grove Bar & Grill
Address: 681 Main St, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: Daily 11 a.m. - 1 a.m.

DAY THREE

8:00 A.M.
Get a nickname at Half Pint Coffee

Named after one of Pa’s nicknames for Laura, Half Pint is the place to be in Walnut Grove. We received so many greetings from regulars: “Mornin!” and “hey there!” were delivered enthusiastically, which made us visitors feel quite special. In addition to the locals’ welcomes, the communal tables encouraged patrons to share stories with one another. As a bonus, their bagels were delightfully fresh, and we vowed to return for ice cream later.

Half Pint Coffee Co.
Address: 400 7th St, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m. - 4 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m. - 4 p.m., Sun. Closed

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10:00 A.M.
Peek inside the Masters Store and Hall

Pa helped build the Masters Store and Hall and the real Laura lived upstairs in this building for a short time. Since this is directly across the road from the museum, we decided to stop here first. You aren’t able to enter this small store, but you can make your way to the balcony and get a decent view of the Laura Ingalls Wilder museum grounds.

The Masters Store and Hall
Address: 311 8th St, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: 24/7
Admission: Free

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10:10 A.M.
Take your time at the Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum

It felt as if our trip was at an all-time high and we were practically giddy as we paused to take photos in front of the Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum. After a very informative chat with the staff in the Visitor Center, we made our way to the first building en route, The Depot. The first half of the building is centered on replicas of artifacts and events Laura references in the book, as well as a few actual items from her — the highlight being a written letter addressed to two people from Currie, dated 1951. The second half of the building is all things from the 1970s TV show, including signed photographs from the actors.

The building nicknamed “Grandma’s House” was actually built in 1890 and features a rare onion dome tower. My little one spent a significant amount of time in the attic, which isn’t surprising, since the whole floor is designed to encourage kids to play.

The sod house replica was a condensed version of what we witnessed in Sanborn, but impressive nonetheless. It features one bed, a small stove, a dirt floor and white-washed walls.

The schoolhouse is also smaller than the one at the End-O-Line Railroad museum. We still spotted good ol’ George and Abe on the wall and felt the furnace in the middle of the room was probably a more efficient way to keep school kids warm.

My kid blew through the Settler’s Cabin, but she found it more interesting when I told her that part of the home is from Eleck Nelson’s property (a pioneer neighbor and friend of the Ingalls family). The furnishings all represent an authentic pioneer dwelling described in On the Banks of Plum Creek.

Heritage Lane is another building with interactive elements geared towards kids — and kids at heart. My child spent the time shopping at the mercantile, reading a book (upside down) and counting money, while I let my Type-A side win as I tried to match the letters to the correct postal cubbies.

The gift shop has plenty of options to commemorate the trip, from books to prairie dresses to Christmas ornaments to candies. Before we knew it, we had blown through our lunch time, so we made a quick stop at the Bakker Farm House on the outside of the grounds before grabbing that ice cream from Half Pint we had promised ourselves.

Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum & Tourist Center
Address: 330 8th St, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: Change monthly. Refer to their hours of operation online.
Admission: $12 for 13 and older, $5 for kids 5-12, Free for preschoolers and members.
Good to know: Print out the Activity Guide filled with a scavenger hunt, trivia, I Spy, and coloring sheets, if you think your kids will need help staying entertained. Also, the website claims you only need 30 minutes if you want to take your time, but my kiddo wanted to stay here for over 3 hours, and we didn’t even crack open the Activity Guide.

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4:00 P.M.
Kick back with some pizza (and wine) at Painted Prairie Vineyard

My original plan was to unfold our picnic blanket on the grounds, relaxing as we read our books and played some small board games. The reality was: my kid took a long car nap and, upon waking, was ravenous.

We quickly ordered two brick-oven pizzas, an N/A Frosted Blackberry Mule and a cold milk and were not disappointed. The amount of cheese on those pies alone was enough to write home about; the drinks (complete with a cute cocktail garnish) immediately lifted our sleepy spirits. If you extend your trip, letting the evening music wash over you while enjoying a communal fire pit outside might be just what the doctor ordered.

Painted Prairie Vineyard
Address: 1575 250th Ave, Currie, MN 56123
Hours: Fri. 5 - 9 p.m., Sat. 12 - 9 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Good to know: There are adorable glamping options for those seeking more lodging options. The taproom hosts live music in the evenings.

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6:00 P.M.
Burn extra energy at Leo Thorsness Memorial Park

Smack dab in the middle of Walnut Grove, with a playground, gazebo, picnic shelter, tennis court, basketball court, and public restrooms, this park offers plenty for all ages. We met several families who were also attending the pageant that evening (and we later recognized each other there!). The absolute highlight, though, was getting invited to learn Hmong line dancing with a studio practicing in the park.

Leo Thorsness Memorial Park
Address: Main Street, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: 24/7
Admission: Free
Good to know: This is also the location of the Walnut Grove Village Fair on Saturdays during pageant season.

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7:00 P.M.
Tie your bonnets and adjust your suspenders for the main event

Let’s set the scene: a small town of about 1,000 people comes together year after year to plan, build, donate and volunteer for a month-long event focused on the Ingalls family. It’s a well-thought-out production with parking attendants, concessions, merch, talented singers and carriage rides — and that’s all before the play even begins.

Large families wander in to admire the expansive stage and settle into their spots on the grassy slope before the sun sets. And then the real magic begins. An actor playing Laura in her later years serves as a captivating narrator, leading us through a grasshopper invasion, two very different birthday parties, the birth of the Ingalls’ only son, and the difficult decision to leave Walnut Grove in search of the American Dream.

Beyond the excellent acting and creative scene changes, the production highlighted the connection of community, the ingenuity of outdoor theater, and the thriving art scene on the prairie.

2026 is part two of a three-part series in Walnut Grove. Never fear — you can jump right into the story, even if you missed part one. According to the press release, it seems they will continue to repeat the trilogy.

Wilder Pageant
Address: 11505 Crown Ave, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: Gates open 7 p.m., Singers 8 p.m, Pageant 9 p.m.
Admission: Varies, depending on seat location.
Good to know: They clearly spray for bugs, but I’d keep roll-on insect repellent (preferred by the pageant) handy just in case. I had pajamas ready to go in the car, knowing my kiddo would fall asleep on the ride home.

DAY FOUR

After returning to the cabin at midnight the night before, we didn’t even wake to our usual rooster alarm clock. The morning was spent packing, completing our Airbnb checkout list, chatting with Sunny, and returning to Half Pint for a bagel and coffee.

11:00 A.M.
Don’t skip a visit to the Village Fair

The park in the center of Main Street comes to life Saturday mornings, lining the pathway with pop-up tents full of antiques and handmade crafts, jewelry and clothing. Take your pick from rotating food trucks, musicians and performances. We had to leave beforehand, but we were told the weekly look-a-like Laura and Nellie contests bring in quite a crowd.

Walnut Grove Village Fair
Address: Leo Thorsness Memorial Park, Main Street, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: Sat. during pageant weekends, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Good to know: Some booths only accept cash.

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12:30 P.M.
Take it back to the OG dugout

About 1.5 miles north of Walnut Grove, along the banks of Plum Creek, the Ingalls settled on property with the intent to homestead. The location is now on private property, but the family allows people to come soak it all in. There are groomed grass pathways along the creek, and the owners have taken the time to rope off the exact spot where the dugout home was located.

Ingalls Dugout Site
Address: 13501 County Road 5, Walnut Grove, MN 56180
Hours: May-October, during daylight hours.
Admission: $10 per car, $50 per tour bus, cash or electronic payment via QR code.
Good to know: Nothing remains of the home but a small depression in the ground, overgrown by prairie grasses, but there are paths to stroll along on the property.

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2:00 P.M.
Celebrate the arts at the Lower Sioux Indian Community’s cultural incubator

Cansayapi Wicoicage Oti is one of the many ways all generations of the Lower Sioux gather to share and strengthen traditions through oral stories, appreciation of history and the revitalization of art forms. While no classes or events were taking place this afternoon, we were invited to tour the ceramic, sewing, and music studios, as well as the 5-and-under indoor play area. In the center of the building, many of the pieces created through the incubator program are on display.

Cansayapi Wicoicage Oti, Lower Sioux Cultural Incubator
Address: 39527 Reservation Hwy 1, Morton, MN 56270
Hours: Vary, call to confirm.
Admission: Free

Walnut Grove is located in Minnesota’s southwestern Prairielands region. See more things to do in Prairielands, including finding cacti blooms in a State Park and trying windsurfing in a town with “the nation’s fastest wind”.

If you have plans to visit northeast Minnesota, Explore Minnesota’s Travel Advisory page contains links to official sources and area tourism organizations with up-to-date information on wildfire activity, closures, and air quality. We strongly encourage visitors to review information provided by local tourism organizations so you can make informed choices regarding your upcoming visit.  

At Kenny’s Oak Grill, we were halfway through scarfing our SPAM omelet when our server (wearing a SPAM-emblazoned t-shirt), insisted we come outside to see the vintage “SPAM TOWN USA” banner hanging on the front of the building. There was construction, so we’d come in the back way, and she really didn’t want us to miss it.

At Tendermaid, where the line for loose meat hamburgers stretched out the door, you can get a SPAM-dog, but if you’d rather stick with a traditional dog, the menu goes out of its way to announce that dog’s provenance: the word “HORMEL” is larger than the words “hot dog.”

Then, of course, there’s the SPAM Museum: a 14,000-square-foot shrine to the world’s most beloved canned meat, where we downed maple and tocino-flavored “SPAMples,” brought to us impaled on pretzel sticks (!!!) by enthusiastic “SPAMbassadors”.

By the end of the tour, we were so SPAM-struck we walked out of the gift shop with matching SPAM logo t-shirts. How could we not?

But Austin, Minnesota, is more than SPAM: they have barbacoa that rivals San Diego’s, an expansively restored prairie where you can see the monarch butterfly migration, and a warm, genuinely welcoming small-town vibe (everyone we ran into asked us where we were visiting from, then promptly invited us to multiple town events three to 30 days in the future). And at just two hours south of the Twin Cities, it’s the perfect one-day getaway.

10:00 A.M.
House a SPAM omelet (SPAMlet?) at Kenny’s Oak Grill

After a two-hour drive from Minneapolis, we were more than ready for breakfast at Kenny’s Oak Grill. We arrived just after 10 a.m. and were greeted by the smell of buttery hash browns, tables full of regulars, and an extremely friendly server sporting an on-theme SPAM t-shirt. We ordered the SPAM and cheese omelet, which came to our table still sizzling, four perfect rectangles of toast riding alongside it. Kenny’s makes classic three-egg, diner-style omelets, and ours was properly fluffy, with a generous portion of crispy SPAM wrapped inside. While we were laser-focused on our mission (eat as much SPAM as possible in one day), other diners had French toast and loaded hash browns that we were tempted to steal off their tables.

We also highly recommend a thorough read of their website’s history page, where every longtime employee is listed by name (“server extraordinariness” Joan Kunze has been with Kenny’s since 1974, thank you very much).

Next time, we’re getting waffles with our omelet.

Kenny’s Oak Grill
Address: 307 W Oakland Ave, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Weds-Mon, 7 a.m. - 9 p.m.

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11:00 A.M.
Can up some meaty history at the SPAM Museum

How many SPAM cans tall are you? What do pumpkin spice SPAM and figgy pudding SPAM have in common? Which country consumes the most SPAM? You can get the answer to all these questions (and more) while you snack on SPAM-ples at the SPAM Museum, a 14,000-square-foot journey through the history, lore, and flavors behind the world’s favorite tinned meat.

On the day we visited, the SPAM Museum was packed with SPAM lovers of all ages, who took their time ogling the massive conveyor belt of SPAM cans that snakes through the building. The museum’s interactive exhibits include a tour through the SPAM-loving world (Japan! England!) and a hands-on test of how you’d do on the Hormel production line (we did poorly).

The cost? Zero dollars; the SPAM Museum has free admission. Although we did all pick up some swag on our way out the door, for who could resist a SPAM-emblazoned onesie or a commemorative SPAM koozie? Not us!

SPAM Museum
Address: 101 3rd Ave NE, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Mon-Sat, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Admission: FREE!
Good to know: You will be fueled throughout your visit by trays of SPAM-ples, and there is a play area for kids who aren’t enthralled by the history of canned pork.

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1:00 P.M.
Get loose (meat) at Tendermaid

When we arrived at Tendermaid, there was a line out the door. On a Wednesday. At the tail-end of peak lunch hours. Let this be a testament to the power of a loose meat sandwich, an Iowan specialty that’s drifted 12 miles north of the border to Austin. Basically a sloppy joe sans sloppy sauce, Tendermaid’s version offers an optional slice of American cheese (we opted in).

Tendermaid has a little bit of theatrical flair: the goods are doled out from a massive, steaming vat of ground beef set inside a food prep island, which is surrounded on three sides by vintage Formica countertops and red vinyl-topped stools, where hungry diners anxiously watched their sandwiches being assembled.

Note the small board below the menu: It extols the accomplishment of one Molly Schuyler, who holds the record for “The Tendermaid Challenge.” If you think you can put down 30 loose meats in less than 26 minutes, get ye to Austin!

We also added a SPAM dog to our lunch, ordering it with relish, onions, ketchup, and mustard. “A nice snack!” said one member of our party. “Like a regular hot dog, but, you know, Spammy.”

Pairs well with Dr. Pepper.

Tendermaid
Address: 217 4th Ave NE, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Daily, 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Good to know: Limited seating inside and the line can stretch out the door – there are picnic tables outside the building for nice weather days, otherwise plan on taking your loose meat to-go.

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2:00 P.M.
Get wallpaper envy at the Hormel Historic Home

There are many locations named for the Hormel family in Austin, but only one where they actually lived. Put any musty, spooky visions of “historic homes” out of your mind; this place is straight-up design bait for fans of original architectural details, GOW (good old wood), and, maybe most importantly, wallpaper.

Because oh my god, the wallpaper.

While the home is named for its most famous residents, it was actually built in 1871 by John Cook, Austin’s third mayor. George and Lillian purchased it in 1901 for (brace yourself) $3,000, which is (brace yourself again) about $118,000 in 2026 dollars, and began an extensive renovation, importing many of the building materials from Europe, including George’s native Germany.

From the quarter-sawn oak walls in the dining room to the perfect flamingo-colored bathroom tile, the Hormel Home is scattered with QR codes that teach you historical context as you gather modern inspiration.

Hormel Historic Home
Address: 208 4th Ave. NW, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Most days Tues-Fri, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., check their calendar for up-to-date info.
Admission: $5 for adults, free for children with paid adult admission.
Good to know: the columns and yard are both currently under renovation, the columns for structural reasons and the yard for fun ones – they’re building a stage for live music.

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3:00 P.M.
Prairie bathe at the Jay C. Hormel Nature Center

By the late afternoon, we were ready to walk off some SPAM. The Jay C. Hormel Nature Center was a quick six-minute drive from the Hormel Historic Home, and we arrived to the adorable sight of tie-dye-t-shirt-clad day campers planting a panoply of native species under the enthusiastic direction of two counselors. Native species, in fact, became a theme of our visit as we enjoyed stunning views of the center’s restored prairies, which were dotted with gently swaying wild white indigo, stunningly blue tradescantia, and sunny-yellow heliopsis.

Jay C. Hormel (George’s son, if you’re tracking the Hormel lineage) planted over 200,000 trees on the first acres of what is now the 520-acre nature center. We loved the view from the 3-story observation deck, which was a very doable mile walk from the parking lot.

In the fall, if you time it right, you can see a spectacular swarm of monarch butterflies getting one last feed in before they migrate south for the winter.

Jay C. Hormel Nature Center
Address: 1304 21st St. NE, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Trails open daily from 6 a.m. - 10 p.m., Interpretive Center open Mon-Sat 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. and Sundays 1 p.m - 5 p.m.
Admission: Free
Good to know: The nature center has a free power track chair, so everyone can enjoy the trails, and while pets and bikes are not allowed, the nature center is adjacent to the 29-mile paved Shooting Star Bike Trail, where they are.

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5:00 P.M.
Load up on barbacoa at Tienda Y Taqueria Guerrero

Austin experienced a large influx of Mexican immigration in the mid-1980s. Now, according to the 2020 census, about 18% of Austin’s population identifies as Hispanic or Latino, and everyone in town seemed to have an opinion about which of the many Mexican restaurants was the absolute best. We grabbed an (amazing) early dinner at Tienda Y Taqueria Guerrero, but locals had equal love for El Mariachi and Los Landeros.

We ordered barbacoa and chicken enchiladas with a slice of passion-fruit filled tres leches for dessert, and when we tell you that this food rivaled Las Cuatros Milpas in San Diego, CA...know how serious that is for us. This was excellent barbacoa: lusciously tender, with a beefy depth of flavor that was well cut by the two (red and green) salsas they brought tableside. And for $13.99? Including rice, beans, pico, avocado, a griddled pepper, and tortillas? An absolute steal.

Tienda Y Taqueria Guerrero also has an attached grocery store with hard-to-find ingredients like mayocoba beans and an on-site panaderia, where several of us grabbed concha and ojo de buey to take home to our (lucky) partners and kids.

Tienda Y Taqueria Guerrero
Address: 301 4th Ave NE, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Sun-Thurs, 9 a.m. - 8 p.m., Fri-Sat 9 a.m. - 9 p.m.
Good to know: The restaurant is in back of the store and panaderia, a straight shot from the parking lot entrance.

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6:30 P.M.
Grab a SPAM burger for the road

We had one final side quest to complete before departing Austin. Our friends at the SPAM Museum told us that there is one Culver’s on earth that serves a SPAM burger, and (naturally) it’s the Culver’s in Austin, Minnesota. You won’t find it on the written menu, though. As a secret menu item (IYKYK), you have to special request it. Still quite full from our Mexican food, we shared a single, perfect SPAM burger, which was griddled in butter and served on a signature Culver’s Kaiser roll.

Culver’s
Address: 1800 8th St NW, Austin, MN 55912
Hours: Daily, 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Good to know: Ask for the SPAM burger, it’s not “officially” on-menu.

Austin is located in Minnesota’s South Lakes region. See more things to do in South Lakes, including grabbing a raspberry danish latté at an internet-famous coffee shop and touring the factory of Faribault Woolen Mills.

Officially, we’re the state’s promotional agency. Unofficially, we’re a rabid pack of Red-Wing-boot-wearing idea machines who literally can’t stop talking about Minnesota to anyone polite enough to listen.

That’s because we love this state. We love every part of it, from the damp-sweat smell of First Avenue on a summer night to the solitudinous quiet of the Boundary Waters. From the deep horizon lines of the southwestern prairie to the craggy drama of Winona’s bluffs. From Target Field to the Northwest Angle, we’re obsessed in a way that we should probably get checked by a clinician. But that level of obsession is why we’re the right people to bring you a newsletter on everything there is to do #OnlyinMN. So that’s what we’re doing now.

This Substack will feature ideas for weekend getaways, there-and-back day trips, and the occasional side quest for worthy pursuits, like finding the most Minnesotan ice cream. Our mission is to illuminate corners of the state you may not have considered. To bring new-to-you destinations to the table or encourage you to visit destinations in a season you hadn’t previously considered (yes, you should go to the North Shore in February, and we’ll prove it).

We promise we’ll never use AI to write (or worse, create images), and we’ll never ask you to pay for access. Not that we’re against paying for content – we are all about promoting local Minnesota creators – but this space will remain free.

We also get the reality of this moment: our state is still healing from a harrowing winter. Families have less money and more things to worry about. But travel, even if it’s just a half hour from home, is still a way to bring us together. We know it’s trite, but getting out of our routines is the way we build memories, and you don’t have to go halfway around the world to do it.

Sometimes, all you need is a little inspiration. Something to nudge you into saying “we should do that.” To send the text to your bestie. To call your mom and ask what she’s up to this weekend. To decide that instead of going to the park by your house, you’ll go to the park by someone else’s house (we do, after all, have some of the nation’s top-ranked parks). That’s travel too. And we’re here to inspire you to do it.

In Minnesota, the sun rises earlier than it does down south. The lilacs bloom in May. In just a couple months, we’ll all get cheese curds and stare gape-mouthed at the butterheads. And every weekend brings a new possibility of something to look forward to – if you know how to fill it.

Locations in this issue, in order of appearance:

• Voyageurs National Park, photo by Mary Mathis

• Minnesota State Fair in St. Paul

• Sekapp Orchard in Rochester, photo by Experience Rochester

• Gunflint Trail Area, photo by Jamie Cooper

• New Scenic Cafe in Duluth, photo by Mary Mathis

• Paradise Center for the Arts in Faribault

• Lake Harriet in Minneapolis

• 10,000 Drops in Faribault

• Touch The Sky Prairie Unit National Wildlife Refuge in Luverne, photo by Paul Vincent

• Sweet Corn Stand at Minnesota State Fair in St. Paul

• Stillwater, photo by Melissa Teng

• Lake City Lighthouse, photo by Visit Lake City

• Painted Prairie Vineyard in Currie, photo by Painted Prairie Vineyard & Estate

• SPAM Museum in Austin

• Gondola in Stillwater, photo by Melissa Teng

• Sugar Loaf Bluff in Winona, photo by Mary Farrell Courtesy of Visit Winona

• Bean & Bear Hike in Silver Bay, photo by Melissa Teng

• Longfellow Gardens in Minneapois, photo by Sarah Ascanio