The heaping spectacle of commercial creativity that is known as the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity is a boozy, sun-soaked, money-drenched, head-spinning week-long event in the south of France whose confluence of art and commerce is a tsunami for the senses.

As co-founder of the creative agency, D/CAL, I have longed to attend this festival as it has traditionally represented the pinnacle of achievement in the field of advertising. Winning a Cannes Lion award is on par with winning an Oscar, and it can change the trajectory of a career or an entire company. Though my agency did not have any projects in the running for an award, my partners and I decided to attend the festival because beyond merely celebrating past work, the event increasingly represents where the future of the industry is headed. We needed to get in the mix and see if we could read the tea leaves.

What started back in the 50s as an awards show for “advertising cinema” has today exploded to reflect the countless ways that brands interact with consumers. With 13,000+ attendees from over 90+ countries, 2000+ events, and representation from countless brands, agencies, creators, platforms, networks, media companies and technology providers, it’s a constant struggle to prioritize and make sense of what to do, who to meet, where to go and what to say, not to mention how to stay hydrated, presentable, and un-drunk.

When it comes to networking and business-building, the best-laid plans, reservations, and intentions are quickly shattered due to strict gatekeepers, un-secured credentials, unexpected discoveries, over-capacity venues, relentless traffic, and record-breaking heat. Even when throwing caution to the wind and going with the flow, it is difficult to identify themes worth leaning into.

All that being said, for anyone interested in some insider agency-speak, here’s a few observations and learnings…

WHAT THE IDEA IS SEEMS TO BE LESS IMPORTANT THAN HOW THE IDEA GETS OUT THERE.

If you are looking to get inspired by big ideas, you’ll have to look hard because those have been buried in the unglorious basement of the event center and are showcased like projects at school science fair. The festival still awards creativity across multiple categories each evening, but overall, the conversations on the stages, in the activation booths and on the street seem to be less about campaign ideas and more about idea distribution. How clever or breakthrough or insightful that idea is seems to be besides the point. It’s less about one single big idea, and more about a brand’s ability to express many things over time in a way that connects with various communities.

COMMERCIAL CREATORS ARE THE NEW STARS.

It’s notable that global talent agencies like CAA and UTA had a huge presence at the event as they have expanded their rosters beyond movies and sports to represent the emerging class of online creators and influencers. These people take many forms such as traditional A-list celebrities-turned-entrepreneurs, elite digital native creators, athlete-creators, and industry trailblazers, and they are increasingly working directly with brands. Mr. Beast, Paris Hilton, Kevin Durant, Mel Robbins, Colin Jost, Hoda Kotb, Chrissy Teigen, JB Smoove, Ludacris, Questlove, Mike D, Magic Johnson, Shaq, and Maria Sharapova are just a few examples of the famous names I came across, and that is dwarfed by the countless up-and-comer creators and influencers such as Katie Fang, Durafest2, Adrian Per, and Brandon Baum, to name just a few. I couldn’t pick these people out of a police lineup, but its obvious that their ability to connect directly with an audience via social media or YouTube or a podcast or a newsletter is extremely valuable.

BRANDS AREN’T NECESSARILY LOOKING TO AGENCIES TO SOLVE THEIR MARKETING PROBLEMS.

It’s interesting to see how the former stars of the show—the advertising agencies—are mostly afterthoughts in this new landscape. The media platforms seem to dominate the conversation, likely because that is where the real money is being dedicated, and they are a more direct line to the end consumer. Snapchat, Tik Tok, Meta, Google, Spotify, Netflix, Reddit, Pinterest, Yahoo, IHeart, and LinkedIn, all had a huge presence. Amazon erected an entire “port village” at the base of the Cannes Port which showcased its many avenues for media integration including storefronts for Amazon Prime video, Fire TV, Alexa, Twitch, etc. Even PayPal had a “patisserie” for discussing ad buys. All of these companies are increasingly working directly with brands to create and distribute content directly to consumers. This doesn’t mean agencies are dead. But it’s abundantly clear that for an agency to survive in this climate it needs to be strategically sound, creatively nimble, media-savvy and prove that it can effectively steer their brand leader partners on where to place the best bets amidst the panoply of cultural, creator, media and tech choices.

Some Cannes case study boards

Drone Show

A company called Kargo stole the show with their massive, mesmerizing drone light shows. At least twice a night, as many as 1,400 drones would swarm from their nest and assemble within spitting distance of the Croissette to mesmerize everyone on the shore with an everchanging array of messages, objects and figures. Similar in scale and depth to a grandiose fireworks display, these scenes were far more powerful because they revealed themselves at a pace that allowed your brain time to process the bigness and detail. One could imagine this technology over a stadium halftime or post game show, amongst a city skyline at landmark events, or simply becoming an entire new form of rock concert where the choreographed drones are the stars.

My new obsession - Bigorneaux

I’m a fan of escargot, and i’m used to it being served in one of those piping hot escargot plates with all the wells where the shell-less snails simmer in wonderful pools of butter. In France, they seem to embrace a more “au naturel” state of serving the snails that are still hibernating in their shells, and one must do some digging before they can enjoy their morsels.

This experience reached a new level when a restaurant began our meal by serving us a complimentary plate of ultra tiny snails called bigorneaux, which are surely the “popcorn shrimp” of the mollusk world.

Smaller than a marble, they require their own custom cutlery in the form of a plastic-handled needle to perform the dissection. Once you coax those buggers out, they are definitely not pleasing to look at, but they are more flavorful than one would expect, as they are slightly truffle-ish in their taste.

Apparently bigorneaux are a Cajun delicacy and outside of coastal France they can be found in parts of Louisiana which will make for a fun adventure the next time I roam the Gulf Coast.

Places to eat, drink and do stuff in Cannes

Astoux & Brun - Excellent seafood, great patio, great people watching.

Le Bistrot de l’Ecailler - Great spot tucked away in a cozy back street.

Da Bouttau - Wonderful restaurant on one of the most atmospheric streets in Old Cannes.

Marley’s - The crispy onions and signature mustardy, mayonnaise-y sauce distinguish this late night dog.

McDonald’s - Worth trying “Le Royale Cheese” just to see how the french beef compares to the original.

Hemisphere Cafe - Easy spot to duck into for a beer or catch a soccer match that is not far from the water.

The Carlton Hotel - Elegant old school hotel with high end bars and dining that is situated at the center of the Croisette.

Utile Market - Good all around market with an impressive wall of refrigerated rosé.

Ceneri Fromagerie - Nice shop to sample some stinky good cheese.

La Croisette - This term refers to the glorious stretch of beachfront that is at the heart of Cannes and features a promenade for strolling as well as many high-end private beach clubs.

Plage Macé - A solid public beach at the western end of the Croisette not far from plenty of restaurants and shops.

Joutes Provençales - If you hang out in the northwest corner of the Old Port, you might witness this obscure—and absured—nautical event.

Pétanque - Public courts where you might be able to talk your way into a game with some locals.

Maison Callaloo - Shop where you can find some wonderful homeware that is handcrafted in the area.

Notable odds and ends from Cannes

Maltese Falcon - This behemoth of a boat was seen bobbing out at sea and can be all yours for about $600,000 per week (plus fuel, food, and local taxes)

Le Royal Cheese - Ever since Pulp Fiction, I have had a soft spot for the “Royale with Cheese” as it was quoted by Samuel Jackson, and I ordered one at the 24 hour McDonald’s in the port near Cannes. It’s France’s version of a Quarter Pounder and uses all the same ingredients with the exception of the beef which is 100% sourced from France and gives it a slightly different, yet still pleasing, taste from one US version.

Joutes Provençales - Hard to believe this still exists—or ever existed—but there is a sport that is still played in the south of France which is a traditional form of nautical combat where two man joust at each other from approaching boats.

D/CAL Shout Out

A special shout out to my D/CAL crew who helped me navigate this wild, wonderful and ever-changing marketing landscape in Cannes. We wined, dined, and schmoozed. We shared notes, toothpaste, sunscreen, and, er, pillows. We interviewed. We Zoomed, We posted. How many of your coworkers would you still be on speaking terms with after spending a week together in cramped quarters with spotty AC and a 150 foot walk to the nearest bathroom? For years to come, we shall be recalling tales from the time we spent together on the Stormy JAZ.

“Happy is the man who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean sea.”

– Nikos Kazantzakis

Ry in Oia in 1999. The whole family in Oia in 2025.

As we gathered on the terrace, it felt like we were standing atop a zeppelin. Blue skies all around, islands floating in the distance, the sea a thousand feet below. There were no railings or barriers impeding the view. Nothing to keep us from stumbling into the abyss of the caldera.

After a 25 year hiatus, Jen and I had returned to the improbable Greek island of Santorini. Back then, the otherworldly setting blew us away and we vowed to return one day to stay in one of the cave homes that are perilously perched atop the cliffs of the still active volcano. We were finally following through on that plan with the family in tow.

While Santorini is home to about 20,000 year round residents, the population on a peak summer day explodes to over 160,000 making it one of the most touristed destinations on earth. But much like Venice, Petra or the Grand Canyon, the sheer wonder of your surroundings is worth dealing with the global hordes.

A Volcano with Villages

Describing the setting of this island defies comprehension. It’s the remnants of a ten mile wide active volcano cone that rises 1000 feet out of the Aegean sea. The land is broken up into a crescent-shaped archipelago of five islands that surround the ancient central crater, or caldera, which is filled with 1,200 feet of the bluest water you will ever see.

From the jagged shore, you can stare upwards at the nearly vertical cliffs and clearly identify various geologic events which are defined by red, black, gray and brown rock, some of which stack atop each other like layers in a cake while others slice through at extreme angles in laser-like lines.

The island has experienced numerous seismic events in modern times, but the most recent cataclysm occurred around 3500 years ago when an eruption is believed to have caused the downfall of the advanced Minoan civilization on the nearby island of Crete. One day they were making wine, racing bulls, and lounging in glorious mansions when they were bludgeoned by one of the largest tsunamis and ash clouds to ever occur on earth.

Today, though development is encroaching across the entire landmass, many of the communities originated by clinging to the highest ridges of the rim of the volcano like a string of Christmas lights on a house.

Illustration by Efthymios Warlamis.

Cave Architecture

The prominent architecture here is called Cycladic in reference to the group of islands where it thrives—The Cyclades. This fascinating style mixes geometric shapes with organic forms derived from cave-like shelters that were carved out of the cliffs, resulting in free flowing structures with nooks and crannies in dramatic settings that stir the imagination. Stoops, stairways, balconies and courtyards come from all directions, and are unencumbered by barriers that would ruin the view. Dwellings have various tiers where one person’s balcony is another person’s roof and so on. Many have pools that cling to the cliff’s edge or, better yet, built into a cove so that you avoid the mid-day sun but can still can soak up the view.

Back when “sustainability” wasn’t even a word, Cycladic builders were ahead of their time by erecting thick walls to stabilize temperature, made flat roofs to collect rainwater, painted everything white to reflect heat, and protected stonework from moisture and insects by applying a lime coating that is a natural disinfectant.

Originally created out of pragmatic necessity, the current day wealth derived from an endless stream of tourists on Santorini has meant that many of these humble homes have been transformed into charming shops, elegant restaurants and five star accommodations. While their hilltop setting was originally intended to provide early warning from pirate raids on the sea far below, now those high perches mean that every cafe, corner store and King’s suite has a glorious view. A labyrinth of paved pedestrian pathways weaves through each village, connecting properties, plazas and panoramas and turning every errand run and evening stroll into a scenic, magnificent feat of endurance.

Cycladica and slow living

One dreams about a trip like this for years. You search and scroll and plot and plan and ultimately cross your fingers that your feeble internet searches will translate into a worthwhile experience. Our good fortune led us to a cave home in the village of Oia, sourced from AirBNB, and hosted by a company called Cycladica. This lucky stroke equated to winning the lottery.

Our hosts were Laskarina and Yannis. She’s an architect who studied in Florence. He grew up on the island. They have expertly restored a few properties, and in the process created a lifestyle brand that exudes slow living. Quality over quantity. Savored experiences over instant gratification. Mindful details and minimal distractions over maximized luxury. Slower pace, less stress. The result is purposeful engagement, deeper connections, fulfilling consciousness.

In this case, that translated to a property that felt like a portal to another dimension. From the sun-drenched balcony, you entered the rock-hewn home with a heavy brass key that unlocked a medieval dutch door. The blinding light outside meant that it took a few seconds for the eyes to adjust. When things came into focus, the spacious interior was disorienting. There were no sharp corners, no right angles, just womb-like curves all around. An archway led to the kitchen. A gentle ramp to the bathroom. The shower was a cave within a cave. The second bedroom was down a level where you entered a gaping hole to the side of a living room by descending a few twisting steps that resembled a stack of marshmallows.

The style of furniture was somewhere in between Minotti and the Mos Eisley Cantina, and it complemented the space perfectly. A few shelves were curated with vintage books and magazines from the island as well as a booklet designed by the host which featured tips on where to find hidden gems around the island. There was Wifi, but nobody realized until well after we departed that there was no TV.

Breakfast appeared each morning like a renaissance still life. A large tray, delivered discreetly, with fresh fruit, yogurt, cheese, eggs, bread, cereal, juice and milk.

There was a fully-appointed kitchen, but no dishwasher. I knew that something as simple as taking my morning coffee on the breathtaking balcony would be worth the price of admission, but I never thought that hand washing a few dishes while staring at distant islands through a paneless window amidst a gentle breeze would be a highlight of my trip.

Each room overlooked the caldera and stepped directly out onto a patio which had multiple levels and arches and slopes and it was hard to tell where one property ended and another began. The kids scrambled onto the various tiers like cats on a cat tower. The most picture-perfect breakfast-ready table sat at the edge of the expanse, and a grotto-like shaded plunge pool tucked itself into a cove. Another level down featured porthole skylights, the hump of a dome and two more chairs. Stairways led up to various sunbathe perches. Ilias found a section that would later become an impromptu waterslide. And there was a third raised area that was flat and saucer like with two more chairs, no railings, and an unencumbered view across the entire expanse of the island. The sum of this put everyone in a state of bliss with little desire to venture beyond the sacred space.

We eventually forced ourselves to venture further than the plunge pool. We rambled through Oia’s maze-like streets where every step felt like an adventure. Pitogyros served gyros that more than hit the spot. Hassapiko made nice cocktails. The maritime museum satisfied my craving for old maps. Dimitris Koliousis’ iconography studio was filled with treasures. We didn’t manage to find a restaurant that matched the splendor of the island, but there were plenty of great places to duck into for wine, cigars, ice cream, clothing and trinkets. But the most worthwhile excursion away from home was the Kymatia.

Caldera Cruise

A few weeks prior to arrival, our host asked if we were interested in trying their new boat out. They had spent a few years restoring a traditional Greek wooden yacht, and it was finally ready to charter to guests. We figured this would be a once in a lifetime opportunity and the day did not disappoint.

The fun started when we took the path from our house down towards the sea. A twenty minute hike to the seaside hamlet of Armeni offered glorious views at every turn. A tender awaited us with two shoeless, t-shirted, unshaven gents who invited us aboard for what at first had the feeling of a cordial kidnapping. I don’t know what I was thinking, but shame on me for expecting some sort of sharply dressed, buttoned up, “captain” who would offer stern pleasantries and keep a keen eye on the clock. Turns out, this was our captain and first mate, Yannis and Odie. And as I would soon learn, these were the two coolest, most capable, and most charming men in the Aegean.

We transferred to the larger, gorgeous boat named Kymatia. While nearly every other charter in Santorini is a modern catamaran, the Kymatia offered a much more unique and graceful experience. Of the various classes of Greek sailing vessels, I would guess this was considered a “Kaiki” which were typically built of pine, had single masts and ornate bowsprits, and were made for fishing or sailing. Below deck, there was a kitchen, bathroom and a few bedrooms. We were free to roam, and everyone quickly settled into their respective spots. The kids sprawled out on the large padded sunbed on the deck near the bow. Jen and I hunkered down near the bar in the stern where we could converse with the Captain.

The boat was ours for the second half of the day, and the itinerary was up to us. Kids wanted to swim and snorkel and beyond that it was just about taking in the views. First stop was to drop anchor in calm waters in between some of Europe’s newest islands—the volcanic remnants of Nea Kameni (“New Burnt Island”) which formed between 1707 and 1711 and Palea Kamani (“Old Burnt Island”) which formed in the prior millenium around the year 47.

The kids jumped in as soon as Captain gave the OK. He also handed out snorkel gear and a paddleboard. We approached Palea Kamani which had a sinister-looking cave we could swim inside. I gingerly emerged on the razor sharp, black lava rock shore. I sliced my hand pretty good on the way back and this led to the discovery of yet another talent of First Mate, Odie—he’s also a medic.

Some champagne and a few spritzes later, our next stop was anchoring close to a sheer rock wall of the main island. We were only about 50 feet from land, but the water was still hundreds of feet deep as the face of the crater continued straight down. This created an unbelievable blueness to the water all around us. Not sky blue. Not sapphire blue. Not Caribbean turquoise blue. This was a pure liquid cobalt. With the sun above us, any object that was in the water radiated a shocking cyan halo. It was like a reverse shadow where the underside of the boat seemed to hover on this lighter blue than the rest of the water around it. When looking underwater, the seabed was nowhere to be found and kids swimming 50 feet away where crystal clear.

Captain Yannis decided to settle here for a dinner, and no one objected. While Odie went below deck to magically whip up spaghetti with octopus, fried fish fillets, marinated zucchini, and a tomato salad, the rest of us dove and bobbed and relished the surroundings. This cathedral-like corner of the caldera was the perfect backdrop for a family meal. When dinner was served, every member of the family seemed to relish the moment because nobody showed up with phones, nobody fought over seats, nobody complained about the menu. Conversation flowed. Plates emptied. Glasses re-filled. And eventually the anchor had to be reluctantly reeled back into the boat.

The beauty of a boat like this is that we can go where we want to go, and for the final leg of this journey, we set course for the sun.

They sky turned from tangerine to lavender as our bare feet dangled over the bowsprit, tickling our toes with spray.

Odie pointed out the church on the tiny islet that he and his classmates would swim to every day after school like some sort of mythological version of Stand By Me.

We gathered for crew and family pics in the golden light, and every one of us realized we were experiencing a day of days.

The sun came and went. The sky was now dark and the encore of this excursion topped everything that came before it.

Above us, the lights of the towns atop the towering cliffs hovered mid-sky like mini galaxies you could reach out and grab.

When we reached shore, there was relief not because the journey was over, but because we knew we all experienced something we can reflect on for the rest of our lives.

A 1500 passenger cruise ship sank in Santorini in 2007 and is still sitting there underwater. Almost twenty years later, oil and fuel from the wreck is still slowly drifting to the water’s surface.

Atlantis Books is a remarkable book store overlooking the caldera in Fira that was opened on a lark back in 2002 and is still going strong.

Meet Sostis, the former solitary inhabitant of Palaia Kameni

In case you missed it, here’s the Sculptor’s House we rented in Oia on Santorini.

Gyro - The “Old” One

The Greek version of the humble but iconic gyro sandwich is worth daydreaming about, and pretty much anywhere you encounter the spinning shrine of melting meat you will find that it is every bit as good as you imagine. Perfectly warm and puffy pita bread wraps like a blanket around freshly shaved slices of marinated pork which have been slathered with a refreshing splash of the Pimms Cup of condiments—tzatziki—and stuffed with a bouquet of sliced tomato, onion, and freshly fried potato spears. In the town of Oia, the bustling Pitogyros restaurant offered numerous variations on this classic, one of which caught my eye—”Gyro, The Old One.” This version used a base of slice pork, tomato and onion on pita bread, omitted the french fries, and most notably, swapped the tzatziki for mustard. The end result was reminiscent of putting mustard on a hot dog and still hit the spot. A simplified classic for the ages.

Dublin is full of ghosts — not the frightening kind, but the kind that sit beside you and start talking.

— Conor McPherson

The glorious republic of Ireland offer charms in all its corners, and though many visitors race right through its capital city, Dublin provides plenty of satisfying pursuits. Its compact center, nearby neighborhoods, labyrinthe layout, and pleasant public transit system make it an ideal place to explore on foot. It’s street after street of incredible pubs draw tipplers from all over the world. There’s eclectic dining, pleasant parks, unique architecture, good shopping, a raucous sports scene, and extraordinary outdoor excursions. Plus there’s historic museums, castles, breweries, distilleries, literary haunts, legendary live music, and unforgettable characters at every turn.

That being said, there isn’t a single grandiose spectacle or landmark or cuisine that you come all this way to witness. You’ll meet magical people and have the time of your life, but something about the island’s limits keep the vibe of the city grounded. It can be a little melancholy, but its also generous, imaginative, and very alive. Dublin is less of a postcard city and more of a lived-in conversation; a character portrait rather than a skyline. At every turn you are sure to encounter talkative Dubliners with stories to tell that feature miraculous twists of phrase. The city makes its mark not through monumental memories, but by way of intimate, everyday happenings that occur through heavy conversations, rewarding strolls, and transcendent pints at a pub.

Small Snack Dublin Map

Pubs

An Irish pub is a place equally suited to fostering connections, drowning sorrows, contemplating strategies, or celebrating the pinnacles of human experience. In Ireland, the pub both anchors and lubricates the community it serves, and in Dublin you will discover its various forms. Some are grand and reveal a time when the layout segregated the wealthy and working classes into various rooms and partitioned nooks called “snugs.” Others are more spartan, unpretentious and get down to the business of drinking. Inside you’ll find revelers from the world over mingling with locals from all walks of life. Here are some of the great, Dublin classics.

• Toner’s Pub - Perhaps my favorite Dublin pub that dates back to 1734 with a traditional front bar and a never-ending ramble of more modern drinking areas in the back.
• Doheny & Nesbitt - Quite magnificent Victorian pub with many floors and many places to get lost in conversation.
• Mulligan’s - Reputed to have the best pint of Guinness in the world.
• The Long Hall - Grand ol’ drinking hall.
• The Palace Bar - Incredible bar with atmospheric back room.
• Stag’s Head - Duck through the alcove and find this gem just off the main drag.
• McDaid’s - Great pub just off Grafton Street.
• Dawson Lounge - Tiny, subterranean, bliss.

Eats

Over the last quarter century, Ireland has diversified greatly, created immense wealth, and expanded its dining scene far beyond the traditional chipper. While there are plenty of impeccable restaurants and deletable cuisines to choose from, one low-fi item that I am particularly fond of is the humble “Chip Butty.” The lowly Abrekebabra fast food chain has this item on the menu which consists of a french fries slathered in mayonnaise and stuffed into a french baguette. Here are some other arguably more respectable joints:
• Peploe’s - Fancy high end city center dining
• The Ivy - Bustling, vibrant, grand dining room
• Bar Pez - Irish-sourced tapas
• Loose Cannon - Natural wine and toasties
• Abrakebabra - Messy, late night, fast food spot, good for a “Chip Butty”

Sessions

Stumbling into an Irish pub and encountering a lively traditional Irish music session with some mix of fiddle, flute, whistle, spoons, pipes, mandolin, and frame drum is one of the joys of life. Unfortunately, it’s becoming more of a rarified treat in the city, but here’s a few places where you will find some action:
• Cobblestone
• O’Donoghue’s
• Darkey Kelly’s

Explore

You’ll be tempted to drink all day, every day, in Dublin, so it helps to have some non-drinking excursions on hand. Here are a few things worth exploring to take in some culture (and then maybe reminisce about your learnings over a pint).
• Merrion Square/Oscar Wilde sculpture/Georgian Architecture/Pepper Canister Church - If you walk in and around the quaint Merrion Square Park, its fun to seek out the soused and splayed out Oscar Wilde sculpture, but you will also be rewarded with some highlights of Georgian architecture from the view of symmetrical row houses along Mount Street Upper towards the iconic “Pepper Canister” church.
• Book of Kells - This 1200+ year old venerated ceremonial object visually conveyed Christian stories for an illiterate populace through magnificent medieval illustrations of remarkable craftsmanship, detail and vibrancy, all created from natural rare pigments harvested and prepared by monks. It is displayed in an equally magnificent vaulted hall library of rare books at Trinity college.
• St. Stephens Green - Tranquil civic gem in the heart of the city center perfect for a leisurely stroll.
• Ha’Penny Bridge - Take in the views of the River Liffey and city center architecture from this 209 year old pedestrian bridge which used to cost a “half-penny” to cross until 1919.
• MoLi - A museum dedicated to Ireland’s profound contributions to literature including legendary writers such as Joyce, Yeats, Wilde, Beckett, and Swift as well as more modern talent.
• Afternoon Tea - The ultimate genteel tea experience can be had at the Shelbourne Hotel in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge
• Guinness Storehouse Brewery and Jameson Distillery - If you are a fan of either of these world famous beverages, it is certainly worth taking the tour of their respective facilities, although if time is limited, I personally enjoy taking them in their natural environment of a local pub.
• Little Museum of Dublin - A wonderful quirky welcome to the city.

Local Adventure

Dublin’s proximity to water offers some rather unique coastline adventures.

• The Forty Foot - This is a historic outdoor free and public bathing spot in the neighborhood of Sandycove where people enjoy YEAR-ROUND cold swimming dips into the Dublin Bay. The welcoming community of bathers is ever present and the tradition harkens back to at least James Joyce’s day where he perfectly described the sea as “scrotumtightening.”

• Howth Hike - For an easily-accessible and absolutely perfect escape from the city which you can do without a car, take the DART to the northern terminus where you will arrive in the quaint and scenic port town of Howth. Walk ten minutes through town and you’ll arrive at a secluded trail known as the Howth Cliff Walk which cuts through lush green vegetation and wildflowers as it clings to the land hundreds of feet above the sea. It and offers spectacular views of surrounding islands, lighthouses, and wildlife. Cap it all off with a pint and some chowder when you wind back into town.

• Golf - If golf is your thing, there are many world class courses within 45 minutes of Dublin city center. Portmarnock and Royal Dublin to the north of the city have hosted many professional tournaments for over 100 years, and Blainroe is a one of many great courses that hug the coastline south of the city.

Sport

From horses to hurling, Dublin offers many chances to see some unique sports in action and any visit to the city will be enhanced by attending an event. The modern Aviva Stadium (capacity: 51,700) is tucked into a leafy south side neighborhood and hosts soccer, rugby and concerts. The larger Croke Park stadium (capacity: 82,300) is a Gaelic games stadium on the north side and hosts Gaelic Football, Hurling, and other events. Leopardstown Racecourse is Dublin’s premiere horse track for thrilling race days.
• Irish National Football Teams
• Irish Rugby Football Union
• Leinster Rugby
• Gaelic Athletic Association - Gaelic football, hurling, handball, camogie (the female version of hurling), rounders, etc
• Horse Racing Ireland

Local Wares

Here’s a random list of unique things worth trying or buying while in Dublin.
• Taytos - The ultimate potato chip, can be found at any shop in town.
• Starbar - It’s just caramel, peanuts, nougat and chocolate, but it has a perfect bite that is somehow smooth and crunchy at the same time.
• Boxty - This traditional Irish Potato pancake is worth a try.
• Strawberry Fluff - Encountered this strawberry version of the marshmallow spread in Dublin.
• Sudocrem - Whatever this stuff is, my wife swears by it.
• My beloved “Chip Butty” - Consider one late night from Abrakebabra.
• Guinness - You can do no wrong.
• Cadbury Whole Nut Dairy Milk Bar (Irish Version) - The Irish versions of the famous Cadbury chocolates use fresh grass-fed cow’s milk and are generally considered to be creamier.
• Irish National Rugby Jersey - Enduring classic.
• A match scarf - If you happen to be in town when a major sporting event is happening, consider buying a match scarf to commemorate the occasion.
• Sweny’s Lemon Soap - In the Lotus Eaters chapter of James Joyce’s, Ulysses, Leopold Bloom is drawn to the lemony scent of the soaps on the counter of this still-standing pharmacy. He proceeds to buy a bar and carries it in his pocket for the rest of the day as he wanders through Dublin.
• Something from Ulysses Rare Books - Anyone have $50k for a signed first edition Ulysses?
• Murphy’s Brown Bread Ice Cream - Brown bread isn’t necessarily that special, but this ice cream flavor sure is.
• Richie’s Wine Gums - Wine gums were created by Englishman, Charles Gordon Maynard, who wanted to develop a sophisticated sweet for adults that could be savored like a fine wine. Richie’s is a brand that he spun off for Ireland and the name refers to the lingering, rich flavors. Charles’ father was a strict Methodist and teetotaler who who was initially horrified by the name, “wine gums”, fearing his son was making sweets with alcohol, and his son had to convince him that the sweets contained no wine or alcohol before his father would agree to their sale.
• Dublin Artist stuff from Jam Factory - a good spot to find local art.
• Hephee T - Always on point Irish illustrator.
• Drumshambo Gunpowder Irish Gin - The distinctive gunpowder green tea is used in the distilling of this tasty spirit.
• A good tea mug - Irish designer, Orla Kiely, makes some great ones.
• The only Massive Map of Dublin - This map manages to tell a thousand stories about Dublin.

Stay

Stay at The Shelbourne or The Merrion for ultimate luxury and proximity to the city center, or get into the local groove with a stay at Gleeson’s which is a boutique hotel nestled in a neighborhood on the south side of Dublin.
• The Shelbourne
• The Merrion
• Gleeson’s

For a city that has averaged less than a million people over the last century, Dublin punches far above its weight when it comes to globally-recognized writers, musicians, artists, actors and famous figures. Here’s a few that were born or raised in Dublin:

Literature & Arts

• James Joyce: Iconic novelist (Ulysses).

• Oscar Wilde: Playwright & wit (The Importance of Being Earnest).

• Samuel Beckett: Nobel Prize-winning playwright (Waiting for Godot).

• Jonathan Swift: Satirist (Gulliver’s Travels).

• Maeve Binchy: Beloved novelist.

• Francis Bacon: Influential painter.

• William butler Yeats: Poet, writer, dramatist

• George Bernard Shaw: witty playwright who is one of two people to win a Nobel Prize and an Academy Award (the other is Bob Dylan)

• Brendan Behan: witty, rebellious playwright and poet

• Bram Stoker: Dracula, anyone?

Music

• Bono: U2 frontman & philanthropist.

• Sinéad O’Connor: Powerful singer-songwriter.

• Phil Lynott: Thin Lizzy frontman, born in the UK, but moved to Dublin at age eight.

• Niall Horan: Former One Direction member, solo artist.

• Grian Chatten: Frontman of Dublin-based, Fontaine’s DC, who was born in England, but moved to Ireland at one month old

• Ronan Tynan: Irish Tenor fame

• Kevin Shields: Musician, songwriter, producer for My Bloody Valentine who was born in New York, but moved to Dublin at age ten.

• Bob Geldof: musician, activist

Film & Television

• Colin Farrell: Actor (In Bruges, The Banshees of Inisherin).

• Brendan Gleeson: Actor (In Bruges, Harry Potter).

• Pierce Brosnan: Actor raised north of Dublin (James Bond, Mamma Mia!).

• Andrew Scott: Actor (Sherlock, All of Us Strangers).

• Gabriel Byrne: Actor (The Usual Suspects).

• Domhnall Gleeson: Actor (Star Wars, About Time).

• Jonathan Rhys Meyers: Actor (The Tudors).

• Aidan Gillen: Actor (Game of Thrones).

• Saoirse Ronan: Brooklyn-born Actress who was raised in Howth, County Dublin (Lady Bird, Little Women, Brooklyn, Atonement, The Grand Budapest Hotel, and Mary Queen of Scots)

  
  

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A Spotify playlist of Dublin and Ireland-adjacent music.

Spotify Playlist

Dublin Meaning

The name “Dublin” comes from the Irish Gaelic name, “Dubh Linn.”—“Dubh” is “black/dark” and “Linn” is “pool.”—referring to a specific physical location of one of the earliest settlements by Vikings who identified a dark tidal pool where the River Poddle met the River Liffey, near the modern day Dublin Castle.

Pub Origins

The word “pub” is a shortening of “public house” which was a term that emerged in late 17th century England to distinguish buildings open to everyone from private residences. These early pubs were remnants of the Roman empire’s extension into England where they established “tabernae” which were roadside alehouses for travelers and gathering places for locals dating back as far as 43 AD. Today, the oldest pub in the world is widely recognized as “Sean’s Bar” in Athlone, Ireland about 75 miles west of Dublin with continuous records dating back to 900 AD.

The Red Guinness Tankard Sign

Many Dublin pubs feature a red Guinness sign on its exterior. The red color is significant because although Guinness appears black in color, when held up to a light you will notice that the liquid is actually deep ruby red. The sign design originated in the late 1950s and featured a Waterford crystal tankard glass of a perfectly-poured Guinness to coincide with the rollout of the nitrogenated Guinness Draught. The nostalgic, vintage look was re-issued around 2015.

Backstory

A few years out of college I found myself behind a desk in Detroit making advertisements for car dealers in Tulsa and San Diego. It was a great job for a young man trying to get a career off the ground. But I was eager to explore the world. Thanks to a series of fortunate events, open-minded parents, generous Irish relatives, as well as a girlfriend (now wife) who was game for anything, I found myself living in Dublin, Ireland at the turn of the millennium. We stayed about 9 months and I have returned numerous times for family weddings and vacations, so I somewhat know my way around the town.

I am eternally grateful to my wife, Jen, and her extended Irish family, for their incredible generosity and hospitality which made our original landing in the city—and every visit thereafter—a cherished experience. I want to extend thanks especially to my Dublin hosts, Helen, Margaret and Jimmy, Liam and Julie, Sarah, Ruth, Liam and Karen, John and Orlaith, Emmett and Lisa, Grainne and Graham, Barry, Aideen, Eimear, Niamh, Anna and Aaron, and Ray.

”Or, imagine being magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi. I'm in... Delaware.”

- Wayne Campbell

Cape Cod, Jersey Shore, Outer Banks, The Hamptons.

Myrtle Beach. Virginia Beach. Daytona Beach. South Beach.

Cape Hatteras. Kitty Hawk. Nantucket, Martha’s Vineyard.

Cumberland, Assateague, Amelia, Jekyll, Fire and all the other islands.

When it comes to summer fun along America’s Atlantic coast, many wonderful places come to mind. But certainly one of the best stretches to be found is in the underrated, underappreciated, under-the-radar Delaware.

Yes. Delaware.

Surrounded by many major metros such as Philly, DC, Baltimore and New York, Delaware’s setting on the Delmarva Peninsula provides just enough buffer to keep it from being totally overrun by hordes every summer.

From Cape Henlopen in the north to the Delaware state line in the south, there’s a lovely twenty mile stretch of beach towns, surf breaks and undeveloped coast, all complemented by the utter lack of high rise hotels and condos, thanks to strict zoning rules and many locals’ preference for small scale charm. The beaches are vast and seafood culture thrives as you’ll find all the oysters, crabs, and Old Bay that you can handle. The region’s flatness makes for great cycling (it averages only 60 feet above sea level). And one of the area’s enjoyable rituals is to essentially tailgate on the beach if you can obtain a coveted Surf Fishing vehicle permit.

There are four towns along the coast, each of which offers a unique vibe…

Rehoboth - Anchored by a boardwalk that dates back to 1873, here you will find all the ingredients for a classic American summer overflowing with shops, seagulls and salt water taffy, not to mention broad beaches and a bustling seaside carnival.

Dewey - It’s roots are as the hard charging party town of the bunch, and while this is where you’re likely to find the wildest night life in the area, it’s a little more family friendly these days.

Bethany - Kind of like a mini Rehoboth—quieter, slower pace, less bars, less late nights, a little more upscale, and a boardwalk that is half the size.

Fenwick Island - Just before you cross the Mason Dixon line into Maryland, this area is slightly more spread out with no true central business district. It’s closest to a secluded state beach and benefits from an extensive network of bays, inlets, rivers, and nature preserves that allow for a whole other slew of activities to be explored besides the open ocean itself.

Our Harvest, Sticky Toffee Pudding
Thrasher’s, Fries with vinegar
Catch 54, Big Fat Crab Cakes
DiFebo’s Market, Beach picnic fixings

Big Chill Beach Club, Golden Road Mango Cart
Seacret’s, Sting
The Starboard, Orange Crush

Surf Fishing/Beachgating - $90 in state, $180 for out of state vehicles.
Atlantic Shoals, Local merch
Fenwick Island Surf Shop, Local merch
Shark’s Cove, Pontoon excursion of Assawoman bay

View Google Map

As a fan of flags, a closer look at the flag of Delaware reveals many details about the state…

The diamond shape - Thomas Jefferson called Delaware a “jewel” amongst the states, thus giving it one of its nicknames, “The Diamond State.”

The colors - The main colors of the flag—“colonial blue” and “buff”—represent those of the uniform worn by General George Washington in an official Army publication. Today, even the Delaware license plates use these two colors.

The date of December 7, 1787 - Delaware was the first colony to ratify the constitution on this date, thus one of its knicknames, “The First State.”

The ship - A reference to Delaware's extensive coastal commerce and symbolic of New Castle County's ship building industry.

The banner with “Liberty and independence” - To this day, there’s no state sales tax in Delaware.

The farmer, wheat sheaf and corn - refers to the agricultural vitality of Delaware

The militiaman - With his musket, the militiaman recognizes the crucial role of the citizen-soldier to the maintenance of American liberties

The ox - Represents the importance of “animal husbandry” to the state economy

The blue wavy lines - Within the shield, just above the Ox, these wavy lines represent the Delaware River, the main stay of the state's commerce and transportation

Road Trip Stuff

We actually did an old school road trip to get from Chicago to Delaware. A couple points on that…

If you like baseball, a road trip through these parts allows you to squeeze in quite a few stadiums. We checked the Red and Pirates’ stadiums off our to-do list, but Phillies, Orioles, Nationals, and even Mets and Yankees are all within a couple hour drive from Delaware.

To pass the time in the car, we played the license plate game where you observe other cars as you drive and try to spot at least one license plate from all 50 states. We came remarkably close to finding all 50 states. While driving through six different states, the only three we could not find were Hawaii, Idaho and Utah. Remarkably, we found about 25 of the license plates while just passing through Indiana on I-80. On this one trip, we also managed to discover plates from District of Columbia and the Canadian Provinces of Ontario, Quebec, Alberta, and Manitoba.

Delaware Fam

I’m fortunate that I’ve had relatives who have lived in this state for decades who have showed me the ropes. Shout out to Mary Ann, Jack, Alex, Kelly and Brian who have shared with me the many wonders of this great state!

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There’s a sliver of the southwesternmost corner of the state of Michigan that doesn’t show up on many people’s radar. There’s no major towns. There’s no major attractions. It’s a gorgeous stretch of sandy coastline that happens to be nestled between two nuclear-ish power plants. To get there, if you’re coming from Chicago, you have to cross two state lines, make a time zone change, and pass through Gary. And if you are in Michigan’s metros of Detroit or Grand Rapids or Kalamazoo, you are far more likely to head north for your recreation than race to this part of the state. All this inconvenience and subtlety works in favor of keeping this Great Lake riviera at just the right level of low key glamour.

Running through this area is an old road called the Red Arrow Highway. It connects about a 15 mile stretch of unique but unassuming beach towns—New Buffalo, Union Pier, Lakeside, Harbert and Sawyer—the sum of which give the area its charm. There’s other nearby inland gems like the village of Three Oaks and the hamlet of Hesston, to name a few, but the rest hug the magnificent Lake Michigan, and each offers something different.

What makes this area great?

Sunsets. Sand Dunes. Secluded shores.

Beach bonfires. Old growth forests. Lake effect snow.

Fruit farms. Goat farms. Farms that serve gourmet feasts.

Dutch treats. A Swedish bakery. A Greek museum.

A distillery with its own putting green.

A bowling alley that only serves cider.

A brewery in a church.

Antique shops, old timey movie theaters, and a deli that converts into a speakeasy after dark.

Great biking, great hiking, great dog walking, great paddleboarding, great porching.

It’s bookended in the north by a fun park with its own captain, and in the south by one of the world’s top golf courses.

There’s colorful characters like Andrew from Hearthwoods, Jacqui from Wine Sellers, Penny from Out There, and Pat & Ellie from—where else—Patellie’s.

It’s the kind of place where you can witness a thunderstorm, a seiche, and a moonset in the same evening.

The area is close enough to Chicago to tune into a Cubs game, yet far enough away to feel like you’ve stumbled upon an uncharted isle. And while you can enjoy four season splendor in the form of snowy winter walks, surveilling spring storms, applauding fall foliage and basking in summer’s abundance, you’d do just as well to spend the day enjoying the simple rhythms of the greatest of freshwater lakes.

Red Arrow Exhibition

This area, and the lake living that flourishes there, is the inspiration for a brand I created called Red Arrow. There’s a book, prints, apparel, postcards, stickers, pins, flags, and, of course, a map.

Thanks to the wonderful people at Den10 Studio, I’m about to open an exhibition of all things Red Arrow at their gallery in La Grange, Illinois. The opening night gala is Friday, June 13 from 6-9pm and you’re all invited.

If you can’t make it, feel free to peruse the goods at www.redarrowmich.com. If you like what you see, you can pre-order items that I can ship them your way later this month. Subscribers of Flags Candy Wine get $10 off orders of $50 or more with code FCW10.

Follow Red Arrow on Instagram

Chicago>Red Arrow

Many people from Chicago choose to hightail the 80 or so miles to get to the area as fast as they can. But if you relish a little off-the-beaten path adventure, here’s a link to some interesting places to check out between Chicago and Red Arrow.

Apple Map

A Red Arrow Playlist

Bobbie Gentry. Bill Callahan. M. Ward. Kurt Vile. Tim Buckley. Etc.

Spotify Playlist

The author living life to the lakest. Photo by Anthony La Penna.

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(Immediate fam in Chicago; Bigger fam in Chicago; Gus and Ava in Amagansett; Jen and myself in Morocco; Jen, myself and Izzy on Long Island; Gus, Ava, myself and a parrot in Florida; Myself, mom, grandpa Mick and Ava; Jen and I; Gus and I)

Floss.

Vote.

Network.

Stay curious.

Embrace change.

Dance more.

Study abroad.

Relish sunsets.

Always be learning.

Travel by train.

Seek celestial events.

Respect others’ differences.

Don’t diss Delaware.

Learn to like dogs.

Make room for plants.

Drink lots of water.

Get a Mick Kit.

Make time for yourself.

Always go to the lake.

Find joy in small things.

Skateboarding is not a crime.

No phones at the dinner table.

Listen. Really listen. Listen some more.

Never put ketchup on a hot dog.

Have a well-packed beach bag.

(Leyla, Jo, Gtodd, Lars, Holly, Sugar, Minyo, Bradley, Jen, Kate, Sean, Ben, Munoz, me, Myra and Greene)

With kids, showing up is half the battle.

Work hard to make those around you feel good.

Read books to your children, every day if possible.

Every once and while, eat dinner by yourself at a bar.

Seek little things you can do everyday to live a greener life.

If you are within 500 miles of an eclipse’s path of totality, go.

Pick a favorite Champions League soccer team and stick with ‘em.

(Marty and I in Bozeman; Josh and I in LA; me being shot on set in Boston; Playing chess against Danish Hans; Ripp and I in Tennessee; Me, Davidson, Leahy, Saur and Carr)

Embrace, engage, and contribute to your community when raising kids.

Call your mom more often than you think is necessary.

Get to know a butcher, a baker, and a local coffee maker.

Give your kids a few basic chores they have to complete each week.

Learn how to play a musical instrument, or at the very least, learn how to play at least one recognizable melody on a piano or guitar.

When travelling to a new country, study its language and learn how to say “hello,” “how are you,” “thank you,” “please,” “yes,” “no,” and “where’s a good place to eat or drink around here?”

If you have relatives who live in a distant country, don’t skip a chance to visit them.

(Yorgos and I tending the spit in Athens; The Romanelli’s and I cheersing in Alvito)

If you want to reduce stress for an important meeting or class or project, dedicate more time to preparation, studying, practicing.

When giving a speech, write down as much of the speech as you can. Then, break down the key points into a handful of 3 word phrases so that when you speak, you will say what you want to say but be more conversational with your delivery.

In the workplace, develop a reputation of being positive, enthusiastic, reliable, and a meaningful contributor.

If you run a business, the feeling that you are going to go out of business is not going to go away, so learn to live with it.

Always be on the lookout for opportunities. The smallest interactions can sometimes lead to big things.

(The Arc crew on WGN for Movember, Kathy and I on the balcony at D/CAL, Adam, myself, Tony and Staab in Detroit)

Work hard to ask meaningful questions.

Only in the most extreme cases should you check your luggage on an airplane.

When traveling to an island that is smaller than 15 miles, rent a scooter.

Learn how to handle a gun, but don’t own one, and address anyone who carries one professionally.

Don’t let your kids use social media or have their own phone until they are at least 12 years old.

(Me in Morocco, Florida, Las Vegas, Santorini, and Venice)

Figure out what excites you and find a way to lean into it as a career.

Look people in the eye when speaking to them, and have a good handshake.

When hosting others, anticipate and fulfill the needs with warmth and kindness.

Prioritize the things that you can influence, and stress less about the things that are beyond your control.

Read Will Strunk Jr.s’ “Elements of Style.” It will make you a stronger writer, and no matter what you pursue in life, the ability to write well will always be of value.

Use a pen/pencil and paper/notebook and write down anything you want to fully absorb. Don’t rely on just listening and remembering. Write it down.

Learn a joke, a few card games (i.e., Euchre, Hearts), a few dice games (i.e., Liar’s Dice, Tenzi), how to drive a stick shift, how to change a tire, how to change a furnace filter, how to unclog a drain, how to set up a tent, how to play Chess, Backgammon, Risk, Monopoly, Blackjack, how to fill out a score card for bowling and golf, how to sew a button onto a shirt and hem a pair of pants.

(Me skating in Hart Plaza in Detroit around 1993)

Don’t waste a chance to celebrate the milestones and achievements of those around you.

If you want to survive a dreary midwest winter, plan at least one good trip to a ski resort.

If you have crummy tickets at Wrigley Field, try moving to section 232 where you can usually find a seat and sit in the sun.

Failing is learning. Don’t dwell on the negatives of failure. Figure out what you can learn from it and move on.

There are interesting things worth discovering in any town in the world, no matter how small or remote or unfamous the place is. When in doubt, seek out a local record store, diner, dive bar or non-chain cafe or restaurant. If it’s a small town in Wisconsin, seek out the supper club.

(Vernazza, San Francisco, Hanoi, Empire, Aitutaki, Lindos, Florence)

Put yourself in someone else’s shoes before rushing to judgment.

Listen to Brahms or Bill Evans if you want to hunker down and get some work done.

Carry a notebook and write down seemingly inconsequential things that you may want to recall in the future…the name of an entree or bottle of wine you liked at a restaurant, the attendees at a meeting, the places you visited or acquaintances you met on a trip, etc.

Seek out multiple sources for understanding various perspectives on a topic, rather than relying on a single source.

Go to Venice, Prague, New Orleans, Tokyo, Bangkok, Copenhagen, Buenos Aires, Hanoi, Tangiers, and Oia, Santorini.

Even if you don’t like golf, make an effort to follow the various storylines of the Masters every year.

Always be on the lookout for new and interesting condiments.

When it comes to food, fashion, and travel find pleasure in both the high and the low.

Stay one night at the Hostel in the Forest.

(Myself and my dad on his 50th, July 2001, Madison, Wisconsin)

Learn what fruits and vegetables are in season where you live, buy the freshest, high quality versions you can find, and incorporate them into your meals as much as possible.

Take a walk every day to clear your mind, ponder a topic, chat with a loved one, or work off a meal.

If you don’t know what wine to buy, look for something from a place that you are fond of like Sicily or Sonoma and just roll with it.

Never miss an opportunity to tell the people that mean the most to you that you love them.

Follow Uncle Pappy.

Start saving a little bit of money on a regular basis as early as you can in life and don’t touch it for as long as you can.

Pick a film director whose movies you admire and study up on the choices they made to make their movies.

(Michigan City, IN)

Play two different sports in one day as often as possible.

Watch “Planes Trains and Automobiles” every November and “It’s a Wonderful Life” every December.

If your family or close friends have some annual traditions, embrace them as much as possible. If you don’t have any, invent some.

Write thank you notes as often as you can manage.

Don’t rely on your phone for navigation. Study a map.

Find a poem you like, study it, and try to remember a few key verses. Consider “If—” by Rudyard Kipling.

Instead of doom scrolling yourself to sleep every night, keep a book near your bed and read a chapter before retiring for the night.

Make it a goal to visit at least one art museum, one science or history museum, one play, and attend one classical music concert or opera each year. Bonus points if you can also visit a national park, aquarium, planetarium, botanical garden, or a zoo.

Create a list of old, classic movies that you can refer to for something to do on rainy, dreary days.

Read a real newspaper on the weekends. I recommend FT Weekend.

Buy a good unstructured blazer and when in doubt, wear it.

Find a recipe you like and master the preparation for each of the following: an egg, a cocktail, an entree, a side dish, a salad, and a pasta sauce.

Be imaginative and ambitious with the life you want to live.

(Me on an Outer Banks beach north of Ocracoke, North Carolina, July 2000)

Baseball is back and Spring is finally (almost) upon us in Chicago. The Cubs home opener is this Friday and with that comes one of the truly great American spectacles—a full capacity day game at the friendly confines of Wrigley Field.

Less and less people seem to give a shit about baseball these days. It’s too long. Too slow. Too boring. It lacks the run-and-gun action of the NBA, the all-consuming zealotry of the NFL, the mortal bloodsport of UFC, the global excitement of FIFA.

If we’re just judging by on-field action alone, perhaps there’s some truth to all that. But there’s a secret sauce to attending a game at Wrigley Field that goes beyond the game itself. There’s the before, during, and after aspects of a Cubs game that add up to one of life’s great joys.

Unless you are commuting in from a distant suburb, getting to the game is half the fun because the stadium anchors a vibrant northside neighborhood. The El that connects all corners of the city rolls right up to the back of the stadium and the view from the platform makes one giddy. Sure, the traffic sucks, but bartering with a local to park in their personal garage a couple blocks from the stadium is a rarified experience. You can also bike, Lime, Uber or simply stumble your way there.

There’s no need to rush into the stadium because perusing the surrounding neighborhood is integral to the experience. The bars, patios, rooftops, and restaurants are all packed, but there’s enough of them that you can usually find a spot without having to wait in a line. Mingle with the firefighters who have the coveted gig at Engine 78. Chat with the old timers who stand guard with their gloves on Kenmore Avenue waiting for fly balls to carry out of the park. Discover and endless stream of new gear at the Cubs Team Store. Set your beer down for a minute to take some batting practice in the cages on the second floor of Slugger’s two blocks from the stadium.

Once you do make it inside, take in the glorious sights and sounds from a few different perspectives. Bask in the full sun of the bleachers or wander around the perimeter to to find your favorite perspective. If you’re lucky, you can watch a pitcher deliver, an El train pass by, and a boat sailing the bright blue waters of Lake Michigan all in one glance. If you’re with your kid, find a patch of grass in Gallagher way and play some catch. Seek out an Old Style which manages to remain on tap in a few select locations even after Budweiser bought all the beer rights. Local wiener king, Hot Doug, makes some interesting hot dogs, but a good ol’ Chicago-style hot dog is a must. Maybe try a Nacho Helmet, Barbacoa Quesa-taco, or Wrigley-rita if you’re feeling frisky. I don’t recommend the beer bats as their novelty wears off about 5 seconds after the first cumbersome swig. If you have tickets to one of the VIP clubs, scratch all this and take full advantage of the open bars and premium buffet. And while I tune out the “Go Cubs Go” post game song, I always relish the 30,000 strong seventh inning communal singalong, “Take Me Out to the Ball Game.”

Unlike most other stadiums across the US, once the game has ended, you aren’t stuck dealing with the funeral-esque drudgery of a prolonged parking lot exit. Wrigleyville is your oyster. If you’re looking for a post game beer at one of the remaining dive bars, Nisei Lounge is your spot. If you want to hang with the beer vendors once they’ve clocked out, head to Toons. If you want to class it up and eat some proper food, try Swift and Sons or, better yet, grab a bar seat at Ella Elli.

All good days must eventually come to an end. But Cubs game days last longer than others.

Here’s some options for a high/low gameday itinerary spent around Wrigley Field:

Pre-game social reveling

• Bernie’s - This multi-level classic Cubs bar is a great place to ease into the afternoon as you’re bound to bump into someone you know. The outdoor patio is a good place to start.
• Murphy’s - Perhaps the ultimate Cubs bar, this place sits right across the street from Wrigley’s bleacher entrance and sets up like a labyrinth with numerous rooms, bars, and patios that you can weave your way through. Press ahead all the way to the very back bar which has a miniature replica of Wrigley Field.
• Slugger’s - If you like the idea of incorporating a little workout into your gameday routine, head up to the second floor of Slugger’s where you’ll find multiple batting cages.
• Lucky Dorr - Tucked away just off Waveland in the alley between Wrigley and the Cubs baseball operations building is this tiny little bar that serves local microbrews.

During the game to-dos

• 1914 Club - If you can get your hands on these tickets, enjoy private, climate-controlled, premium everything with multiple bars, chef stations, and in-seat vendors directly behind home plate.
• Scoreboard Bar - This is just a simple beer vendor stand, but it is perched in a unique spot near the highest point of the stadium directly under the centerfield scoreboard. Bud and Bud Light are your only options, but there’s quite a panorama from up there.
• Nacho Helmet - If you’re going to get nachos, you might as well get a whole helmet full of them. Find this item near sections 307, 327, or 124.
• Chicago-style Hot Dog - You might as well go to the source for one of these, thus try the Vienna Beef Grill in section 131.
• Barbacoa Quesa-taco - A unique item worth seeking out in section 121.
• Old Style - See below for the particular areas of the stadium where you can find this brew.
• Gallagher Way - If you are with kids, or if the game is dragging on in the later innings, it’s not a bad idea to venture out to the turfed park area just outside the stadium where you can stretch your legs, grab a drink, and catch the last few plays on the giant screen overlooking the area.

Post-game bar hopping

• Guthrie’s - Corner tavern in the first floor of a house.
• Nisei Lounge - Enduring dive that offers its own brand of “Day Baseball Beer.”
• G-Man Tavern - Old school hipster cool.

Post-game eats

• Toon’s - Great food, great beers, great service. And shuffleboard. And homemade pineapple vodka shots.
• Big Star - Great tacos with handmade tortillas, but the sleeper hit on the menu is the Big Star salad.
• Billy Goat - Solid burger, solid bar, no more curse.

Post-game fancy eats

• Ella Elli - Sneaky little hot spot with a good size bar you can belly up to for a post game feast if you’re lucky enough to find an open seat.
• Swift & Sons - Directly across the street from the Wrigley marquee, you can get a platter or oysters and a decent steak.

One more for the road

• Lange’s - Cold beer, wild crew.
• Ten Cat - Nobody even seems to know this place is here yet it has a great bar, pool tables, and a nice outdoor patio.

Where to find Old Style at Wrigley Field:

• Portable Bleachers - Sections 506, 515

• Portable Upper Deck - Sections 314, 321

• Portables Mezzanine - Section s207, 222

• Portables Concourse - Section 116, 124

• Retro Beer Cave - Upper Bleachers

• Red Line Grill - Lower Bleachers, Right Field

• Beer & Wine - Sections 107, 114, 118, 122

A nice overview of the significance of the flags at Wrigley Field.

A bitter poem about a really good Cubs infield trio from the turn of the century.

The interesting origins of one of the Cubs original logos.

A peek inside the manual Wrigley scoreboard.

Classic Bill Murray clip on the Cubs first night game at Wrigley.

Ever wonder what game Ferris Bueller attended?

Cubs World Series parade was allegedly the seventh largest gathering in human history.

Somehow, Eddie Vedder and Bill Murray managed to travel from Cleveland to The Lodge on Division Street in Chicago on the night the Cubs won the World Series.

Randy Newman’s classical ode to Wrigley Field.

Eddie Vedder singing “All the Way” with 2015 various players on roof of Jon Lester’s roof after the Cubs won their first pennant since 1945.

The Harry Caray glasses might look good on you.

William Murray Cubs Polo Shirt.

This remarkable drone video sums up all the best parts of a day at Wrigley. The audio is almost as good as the drone flying itself.

I asked ChatGPT to write an article as if Ernest Hemingway witnessed the Cubs winning the World Series.

The Cubs players over the last century have had some nifty nicknames. Can you identify these players?

1. Cap (side note: I tried to name my first born son, Cap)

2. Death to Flying things

3. Dad

4. Jiggs

5. Buttons

6. Peerless Leader

7. Three Finger

8. King

9. Bubbles

10. Zip

11. Hippo

12. Sweetbread

13. Tiny

14. Sheriff

15. Pinky

16. The Rajah

17. High Pockets

18. Monk

19. Every Day

20. Footer

21. Froggy

22. Kong

23. The Professor (the first one)

24. Fonzie

25. El Mago

Answers: (1) Adrian Constantine Anson, 1876-97 (2) Bob Ferguson, 1878 (3) William H. Clarke, 1888 (4) Walter Edward Parrott, 1892-95 (5) Herbert Briggs, 1896-98, 1904-05 (6) Frank Chance, 1898-1912 (7) Mordecai Peter Centennial Brown, 1904-1912 (8) Leonard Cole, 1909-12 (9) Eugene Hargrave, 1913-15 (10) George Washington Zabel, 1913-15 (11) James Vaughn, 1913-21 (12) Abraham Lincoln Bailey, 1919-21 (13) Earnest Osborne, 1922-25 (14) John Blake, 1924-1931 (15) Clarke Pittenger, 1925 (16) Rogers Hornsby, 1929-32 (17) George Kelly, 1930 (18) Walter John Dubiel, 1949-52 (19) Don Elston, 1953, 1957-64 (20) Richard Allan Johnson, 1958 (21) William Alfred Hands, 1966-1972 (22) Dave Kingman, 1978-1980 (23) Greg Maddux, 1986-92, 2004-06 (24) Alfonso Soriano, 2007-2013 (25) Javier Baez, 2014-21

St. Patty’s weekend is upon us. There’s many sights to see, friends to meet, pints to down. You need a plan to make the most of the day. What’s your St. Patty’s Strategy?

In Chicago, St. Patty’s Day is a big deal. For well over 150 years the Irish have been a dominant force in the city’s politics, labor and communities. In the 1850s, 1/5th of the city consisted of residents of Irish ancestry, and since then about a quarter of the city’s 50+ mayors have have been of Irish descent.

Today the city is much more diverse, and the holiday of St. Patrick’s Day has evolved far beyond a single day and far beyond a celebration of Ireland’s patron saint. Now the holiday is a multi-day bacchanal of all things Irish, er, all things drinking.

Barring a rare 70 degree day in February, this mid-March day marks the moment when this city of three million people finally wakes up from its months-long winter slumber. People emerge, streets clog, pubs fill. Almost everyone seems to enjoy a pint at some point (Side note: that non-alcoholic Guinness is a delight). Camaraderie and drinking rule the day. Parades flank the north and south sides while the river that bisects the downtown transforms for a few fleeting hours into the most unbelievable shade of green. Leprechaun accessories abound along with trays of corned beef, pitchers of green beer, and piles of vomit. Things get messy, but overall the good outweighs the bad.

Since this day comes once a year, it’s wise to have a St. Patty’s Day strategy. Are you looking to party or avoiding the crowds? Seeking out the classic Irish pubs or making the dyed river a must-see? Gathering with family or connecting with old friends? Trekking across town or staying within walking distance of your front door? So many pubs. So little time. Here’s a few courses of action…

Seek out the Classics

Chicago has some wonderful, classic, tried and true Irish pubs that have been around a while.

Shinnick’s - Located on the south side near the White Sox stadium, Shinnick’s has been in operation since the 1890s and has been in the Shinnick family since 1938.

Fox’s - 55+ year old, family-owned and operated pub and pizza restaurant located on the far southwest side in Orland Park.

Kitty O’Shea’s - Forty year old pub tucked inside the Hilton on Michigan Avenue staffed by a steady influx of Irish.

Cork and Kerry - With a history that dates at least back to the 80s, this is a South Side Irish institution.

Barney Callaghan’s - On the far south side of Chicago, this pub has been around since the 80s, was completely reimagined in 2015, and offers some authentic Irish ambiance.

Timothy O’Toole’s - Sprawling Streeterville pub first opened in 1992.

Fado - Muli-level pub with a Disney-esque vibe that has been going strong since the 90s. It’s a commercialized mix of old and new. But hey, Disney was Irish.

O’Donovan’s - Established in 1999, this north side pub is like two pubs in one with a traditional wooden bar on one side and then a bright and airy loft-like second bar.

Celtic Crossing - If you play your cards right, you just might get locked into this River North bar, and that is a good thing.

Galway Arms - 20+ year old Irish pub inside a historic mansion in Lincoln Park with lots of nooks and crannies for craic and conversation.

The Kerryman - Owned by three gents who hail from County Kerry, Ireland, this Irish bar has been a hot corner in River North for decades as it was originally the Irish pub, McGovern’s, then a strip club, the Liberty Inn, then the original Chicago Punk bar, O’Banion’s, before reincarnating to its current day state as The Kerryman.

Hang with the Old Timers

If you’re longing to hear an authentic Irish brogue and want to increase your chances of hanging with people who were actually born in Ireland, there are two Irish Cultural Centers, one on the north side of town and one on the south side of town, where chances are high that you’ll encounter some locals from Leixlip, Kinsale or Farrenfore.

5th Province - Family-friendly pub inside the north side Irish cultural center.

Carraig Pub - This pub is located inside Gaelic Park on the far south side which hosts everything from weddings to hurling matches.

Pick a Strip

If you’re just looking to throw yourself into the raucous fray, then pick one of these strips where there are numerous bars—Irish and not so Irish—that will be bouncing the weekend of St. Patty’s Day.

Rush and Division in the Gold Coast
Butch McGuire’s, The Lodge, are always packed and festive. And just a couple blocks over, Dublin’s is where you are sure to find all sorts of crazy including an eclectic mix of revelers, pushers, hookers, cougars and drunks.

Clark Street in Wrigleyville
Amongst the mega bars along this stretch which will have lines out the door, the nearby Gingerman, Murphy’s, and Guthrie’s are worth ducking into.

Webster Avenue in Lincoln Park
There’s a nice little crawl that includes Glascott’s, Kelly’s, and McGee’s amongst others along this residential stretch near DePaul University.

Stay Classy

A few places that provide an elevated Irish pub experience…

Guinness Open Gate Brewery - They don’t brew Guinness here—that comes exclusively from the Dublin brewery—but they make a range of other good beers and also serve good food at this brewery near Randolph street. The grand setting of the taproom features a bar that is modeled after an Irish harp.

The Gage - This nicely appointed bar right on Michigan Avenue across the street from Millenium Park serves great food and pints.

The Dearborn - Stylish, modern bar in the heart of the Loop.

Avoid the Masses

Keenan O’Reilly’s - Pretty much as divey and under-the-radar as it gets. The ping pong table in the back is a nice touch.

Fuller’s Pub - Cash only Irish dive bar that, according to the sign out front, has been going strong since 1976.

Four Trey’s- Cash only, dog-friendly, family-owned. Probably not Irish, but for the sake of this list, let’s say it is.

Take Me to the River

It’s wise to work some non-drinking activity into your St. Patty’s Day strategy, and while the parades are nice, the fantastical fluorescence of the Chicago River on the Saturday morning before St.Patrick’s Day is a spectacle worth planning a day around. Here are a few spots within a block of the river…

Smith and Wollensky - This high end steakhouse is not Irish, but the bar sure has the right feel, and it sits right on the river with indoor and outdoor patio seating.

Lizzie McNeil’s - Right on the river with an added outdoor tented area for St. Patrick’s Day.

Shamrock Club - Wonderful little hole in the wall Irish pub in the shadow of the Merchandise Mart that has been going strong since 1989.

Emerald Loop - Expansive Irish bar walking distance from the river.

Bring the Kids

In Ireland it is not uncommon to see entire families at a pub, particularly on a Sunday. St. Patrick’s Day offers a chance to do the same in Chicago at a few establishments that have ample space and serve food.

Chief O’Neill’s - Sprawling indoor/outdoor pub is bedecked in from floor to ceiling in green lights that’s sure to dazzle all comers.

Mrs. Murphy & Sons - The main room features a wonderful central square bar, a fireplace, and often features live music. There’s a great shop in front that is stocked exclusively with Irish goods. Hello, Star Bar.

Porter Cullen’s - Charming neighborhood Irish bistro in Evergreen Park.

Follow the Rovers

The Shannon Rovers are a famous Irish pipe band that lifts spirits wherever they go with their brief but triumphant performances. They post their whereabouts on social media and you can build an itinerary around their whereabouts.

Hold Court

Finally, here’s a nice and easy strategy that can keep you close to home. Lucky for you, Irish pubs are one of the most ubiquitous institutions on earth. From Perth to Portland to Phnom Penh you can find something that passes as an Irish Pub. And if you’re in Chicago, chances are good that there is one within walking distance of your front door. This strategy involves you going to your nearest Irish pub, grabbing a stool or table and settling in for an afternoon. You’re not going anywhere for a while. Rather, you nurse a pint while various friends and acquaintances eventually pass through and strike up impromptu conversation.

Chicago “Pub” Map

Here’s a map of all the before-mentiond places plotted along with a slew of others. There’s tabs for true Irish pubs and kinda-sorta Irish pubs, etc.

Chicago Pub Map

Kerry Talk

This weekend always reminds me of my mother-in-law, Marie (Dennehy) Karas for whom I wrote a book that is a collection of all her amazing Irish phrases.

Purchase Book

”A great and corrupt gardenia of an island.”

- Tom McGuane

There’s something wonderful and unsettling about being the last stop on the continent. For those looking to get away from it all, Florida’s Key West is the end of the line.

This remote speck was first settled by the Indigenous Calusa people, followed by the Spanish Explorers who passed through in the 1500s, then the pirates had their day in the 1700s, then the US claimed the land for various strategic military purposes in 1800s, then things skewed more commercial in the 1900s to the point where today the island is mostly dedicated to various leisure pursuits such as eating cheeseburgers in paradise.

The last habitable island at the southernmost point of the continental US barely pokes above the vibrant waters between the Gulf of Mexico and the Straits of Florida that rush out into the Atlantic Ocean. You can fly, ferry or drive yourself here along the scenic, harrowing, 113 mile long, Overseas Highway.

Well, it’s scenic if you traverse it during the day. For Jen and I, our flights were cancelled and we ended up doing the entire four hour drive from Miami to the island between 9pm and 1am. Fortunately, many more stretches than I imagined are on land, but the 42 bridges, most of which are poorly lit, two lane highways, require the utmost concentration after dark. Roads stretch into the abyss, the inexplicable miniature Key Deer are plentiful, and I found myself almost hallucinating for numerous stretches where you can’t tell if the lights in the distance are cars, ambulances, or UFOs.

However you arrive, you’ll eventually gravitate to Key West’s Old Town which still retains—barely—a particular seductive atmosphere rarely found in America. The air is salty. The homes are tiny. The foliage is unruly and lush. Many bars, cafes, and restaurants exist in jungle settings. Hot, sweet, cortaditos can be found at sidewalk stands. Businesses are quirky, independent and diverse with no chains in sight. No Starbucks. No high-rises. No parking lots. No gated communities. Most everything is within walking distance, and it’s the perfect place to rent a scooter. You’re more likely to see a Cuban flag or the Key West Conch Republic flag than the American flag. Geckos and chickens—yes, chickens—roam freely with people from all walks of life in the streets. Italian tourists. An Indian family on detour from their Disney vacation. A group of gay friends on holiday from the UK. Afro-Caribbeans. Honeymooners. Acid trippers. MAGA types. Hippies. Yogis. Runaway teens. Midwesterners on a never-ending bender. Mostly-naked cyclists. The occasional linen-suited dapper gent.

Beyond your local island mates, half the fun of being in Key West is exploring the back stories of the wide array of history-makers, pioneers, artists, addicts, bohemians, recluses, sportsmen and world class bamboozlers that have strutted down its sun soaked lanes. From Hemingway to Judy Blume, Edison to Truman, with some Shel Silverstein thrown in for good measure, there’s lots to read up on and explore.

Bar hopping and Hemingway house-hunting are worthwhile, but getting yourself on a boat is a must. There are package deal day trips of every persuasion—the kind of thing where you cruise off shore to watch the sunset with a complimentary cocktail—but the way to go is to charter a boat and choose your own adventure. Flat fishing, deep-sea fishing, reef snorkeling, sandbar swimming, mangrove touring, sea-kayaking, deserted island hopping, or pick a tranquil spot to drop anchor and have a transcendent happy hour.

If you do hire a boat, most can take you just about anywhere, weather-permitting, so do some research on your activity of choice before hand and have a couple options in mind. On our recent visit, we were winging it and didn’t have a clear plan because there seemed to be so many options. I’m not a fisherman, but I wanted to try fishing the flats. But I also wanted to find a remote idyll to swim and snorkel. And I also didn’t mind the idea of just cruising along while sitting on the boat deck and admiring cloud formations with a bottomless cooler of cold beers nearby.

All this added up to an itinerary that didn’t stray too far from shore, but led us to a desolate sand bar where the captain popped a couple kayaks in the 80 degree water, tossed overboard a soft cooler stashed with beers, ice, tequila, limes, soda and sandwiches, and let us drift off on our merry way across the lapping sea to cobble together our own waist deep four cocktail lunch. Still feels like a dream.

Go-getters will figure out a way to sail to the Marquesas Keys or Dry Tortugas for their hardly touched waters. And for the truly industrious, it is indeed possible to do a day trip to Cuba via private airplane or boat charter. These itineraries were advertised in numerous local publications and casually suggested by multiple bartenders who “knew a friend with a boat.” Timing was such that we couldn’t see this particular escapade through, but what an adventure that would be!

If you do stay on land, I found the notion that “Key West has no beaches” to be a myth. Fort Zachary Taylor Beach was easy to access and was a great place to catch a sunset. If you bring a hammock, you can string it up to the non-native pine trees that were imported from Australia to create a uniquely shaded beach environment.

For reasons that I still don’t fully understand, it is nearly impossible to find good seafood on Key West. You would think the island’s proximity to one of the world’s premiere fishing channels would grant it access to some fresh quality fish. Not the case. Oysters were awful. Don’t bother with the conch. Filets were smothered in thick sauce. Closest thing I found to good seafood was the fried hogfish sandwich from Hogfish Bar and Atlas Izakaya crafted some nice bites. But if you remind yourself that you are really here for the tropical heat, the debaucherous dives, the immaculate flats, and the cotton candy sunsets, then you’ll be happy.

Here’s my guide to some highlights…

Blue Heaven - Key lime pie under a banyan tree
Atlas Izakaya - King crab tacos
Lola’s Bistro - Veal medallions
Cafe Sole - Hogfish Snapper Sole
Cafe Marquesa - Hot and cold foie gras

Chart Room, Cold beer and hidden gem vibes
Captain Tony’s - Cold beer and Hemingway vibes
Green Parrot - Cold beer and live music
Don’s Place - Cold beer and local drunks vibes
Hogfish Bar & Grill - Cold beer and a Hogfish sandwich

Boat Charter - Sandbar picnic
Cuba Daytrip - Havana in-and-out
Bocce Courts - pick up bocce match by the sea
Kimpton Winslow’s Bungalow’s - Midnight swim
Besame Mucho - Thoughtful gifts
Hemingway House - Second floor bathroom tile
Fausto’s Fleming Street - Beach picnic supplies
Sandy’s Cafe - Sidewalk cortadito
Fort Zachary Taylor Beach - Sunset through the pine trees
Books & Books - Local author browsing

View Google Map

Local Legends

Many a memorable character has graced this tiny island. To name a few…

Judy Blume - Even at 86 years old, you can find the famous novelist, and long time Key West resident, managing her book store that is part of a dynamic, multi-use space she co-founded which includes a performance auditorium, artist studios, and a gallery.

Vince Vaughn - The actor filmed the entertaining comedic crime series, Bad Monkey, in Key West in 2022 (the series was recently renewed for a second season and will take place mostly in Los Angeles).

Jimmy Buffet - Legendary singer, songwriter, and entrepreneur who is synonymous with all things Key West. He lived on the island through the 70s and 80s. Many of his most famous songs were written on or about the island. Upon his death in 2023, his net worth was over $1 billion, making him one of the world’s richest musicians.

Shel Silverstein - Amongst his other homes in Sausalito, Greenwich Village, and Martha’s Vineyard, the writer and cartoonist spent the last few decades of his life in Key West, passing away there in 1999.

Tom McGuane - Writer and angler who moved to Key West in 1970 and wrote several books about the island including Panama, Ninety-two in the Shade, and Cloudbursts.

Jim Harrison - One of the “Fat Boys,” a gregarious group of writers, anglers, and all around partiers who spent many winters on the island in a stupor during the 70s.

Tennessee Williams - Southern Gothic playwright, perhaps most famous for his Pulitzer winning play, A Streetcar Named Desire. He lived on the island for over thirty years between 1949 and 1983.

Harry Truman - The nation’s 33rd President spent 11 “working vacations” for a total of 175 days of his presidency between 1946 and 1952 on Key West. His home became known as the “Little White House",” and can still be visited today.

Ernest Hemingway - World renown writer, drinker, hunter, fisherman, journalist, ambulance driver, and lover of of cats who penned numerous novels when he lived on the island between 1931-1939. In 1938, he set a “world record” for catching seven Marlin in a single day off the coast between Key West and Cuba.

Thomas Edison - The genius inventor was stationed in Key West for six months in 1917 during WWI, working on depth charge experiments for the Navy.

Henry Flagler - Industrialist and Founder of Standard Oil. Key figure in the development of much of the southern Atlantic coast including primary investor in the original railroad to Key West that was completed in 1912.

Winslow Homer - The painter visited the island between 1886 and 1904, and he produced numerous works while there including A Norther, Hauling in Anchor, and Taking on Wet Provisions.

All That is Sacred - A wonderful documentary produced by Yeti, which is largely based off an obscure 1974 documentary called “Tarpon,” offers a glimpse of the alluring and haphazard 1970s Key West.

Dry Tortugas National Park - If you’re up for a remote adventure and pristine waters, seek out this National Park.

Key West Mooring Buoy System - Who knew you could park a boat for free in Key West?

Civil War-era Key West tidbit - Despite Florida seceding to the Confederacy in 1861, due to the presence of the US Military, Key West never fell out of Union control during the Civil War.

Key Deer - On the islands stretching out to Key West, it is not unusual to encounter the smallest of all white-tailed deer, the Key Deer, which stand only about 30 inches tall. These pixie-like creatures can actually swim from island to island!

Fisherman’s Paradise - The merging of the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean, along with the extensive nearby reef system and warm shallows waters, all contribute to making this one of the best places in the world to fish.

Key West Day Trip - Circumstances change frequently, but apparently, at the moment, thanks to the Office of Foreign Assets Control’s “Support for the Cuban People” policy, you can indeed take a perfectly legal day trip to Cuba from Key West.

The largest underwater treasure find of all time was discovered west of Key West in 1985. Three Spanish treasure galleons sank during a hurricane in 1622 and 500 lives were lost. Over 350 years later, Treasure hunter, Mel Fisher, discovered $400 million worth of gold, silver and rare artifacts being transported by the Nuestra Senora de Atocha. And for a brief period in the 1830s when salvaging shipwrecks was an everyday pursuit for many people, Key West became the richest city per capita in the US.

Key West Little Conch Baseball League - Each island in the chain has their own Little League Team!

You Can Do Magic - I don’t believe this song has anything to do with Key West, other than perhaps it qualifies as “Yacht Rock,”but the video is a must-see for its pastel-clad musicians grooving in an otherworldy cloudscape.

A Key West Playlist

Yacht rock, stoner soul, jazz pop, coastal country, sailor folk.

Jimmy, Steely, Crosby, Lightfoot, etc.

Here you go…

Listen

There was a time when a man could determine the grade of a slope with a
single glance. A time when a man could be counted on to properly
position a sprinkler. Indeed, there was a time when a man could spread
enough mulch around the perimeter of his home to build an eight foot bunker.
Despite the disfavor for these crafts amongst the common homeowner, there
exists a man who continues to bestow his mastery over the land. That man is
Yardman. He knows his mission. He understands that lawn etiquette is not a
task to be taken lightly. A palette of trustworthy earth tones needs to be
established. Rhythms of line and texture must be adhered to in rooflines and
gutter placement. A thorough understanding of botany is essential, as is an
ability to communicate with woodpeckers and deer. And while it seems certain
members of the male species cannot be trusted with a pair of hedge clippers,
the Yardman can always be relied on for the skillful upkeep of his land.
In the pages that follow, we celebrate the exhaustive craftsmanship
of one such Yardman: Kent Stewart Maconochie.

Behold Yardman’s home from the road. Lawn mower cutting patterns, roof
pitch, tree placement—if there are any flaws, they are instantly revealed from
afar. Make no mistake, this vantage point is of utmost importance to the
Yardman. Morning joggers, leisurely strollers, and those passing by from the
comfort of their vehicles all observe the Yardman’s kingdom from this
perspective. Thus the Yardman spends countless hours to ensure all
elements act as a cohesive unit, for Yardman is king of his neighborhood.

There is never any question as to the location of the Yardman’s home. His
address is displayed clearly, chiseled for posterity into solid concrete. At
night, strategically placed halogen lamps project a steady beam of light
across the plaque. At the Yardman’s lair, the pizza guy rarely has a suitable
excuse for not delivering his bounty promptly.

Upon approach, one is nearly overpowered by the entrance of the Yardman’s
dwelling. Expertly-groomed shrubbery flocks both sides, aromatic rose bushes
abound—resistance is futile.

The Yardman is many things. Among them, a highly-skilled botanist.

Tasteful brick-selection, well-crafted arch-work, finely-tucked ivy—though
they may go unnoticed to the casual observer, these details are at the
forefront of the Yardman’s mind.

Legend says the Yardman cuts brick with his bare fists. Are you going to
question the Yardman?

Semicircle shrubbery— a Yardman trademark.

Yardman is all too familiar with this scene. Once an onlooker has advanced as
far as the front porch, they have surely succumbed to the grandeur of the
entrance to his lair. With the prey firmly in his grasp, the Yardman knows
the game is up.

The Yardman’s back yard is an equally impressive sight to behold. Here the
Yardman can find respite. This sacred area is his private territory, free of
distractions brought forth from passing cars or curious onlookers.

Observe how the Yardman has successfully merged lawn and dense forest. Though one with nature, the Yardman ultimately surrenders to the wild.

Various levels of manicured foliage are no accident. Always conscious of the
visiting neighbor’s perspective, the Yardman has gone to great lengths to
ensure that each vista offers the maximum amount of visual satisfaction.

Symmetry. Proportion. Harmony. Concepts learned by some, but instinctive to
the Yardman. He knows that repeating an arched window motif in the design of
his patio ornaments will offer the casual observer a sense of pleasure, though
they may not be exactly sure why.

The Yardman’s house always looks more impressive from the vantage point a
well-manicured lawn. From this position he can also enjoy more fully the
permeating aroma of fresh-strewn fertilizer.

Though the Yardman reigns supreme over his own territory, he is quick to
acknowledge neighboring Lawnmen. In a gesture of respect, the Yardman
positioned this arched vestibule so that it would take advantage of the
wondrous view of the neighbor’s backyard.

Spiders and other creatures of the yard are of little consequence to the
Yardman, who happily cohabitates with all of nature.

The quintessential Yardman patio. Plentiful seating, ample shade during peak
sunshine, and a fully stocked fridge just footsteps away.

Behold the Yardman’s alter. A place for peaceful contemplation where one can
admire the encroaching Hemlocks and worship the Lawn Gods.

Yardman should be proud of his home. He can rest assured that Yardson will
happily carry on the Yardman tradition when he owns a home of his own.

On the last point, all I can say is, I don’t own a lawn mower and the grass at my house is—shall we say, au naturel— but I try!

I am not the biggest soccer fan, but I do love the global excitement and fleeting epicness of the larger tournaments such as the World Cup. This summer, we get to experience a few of these sort of events with the summer Olympics, Copa America, and, starting today, the Euro 2024 Soccer tournament which will be playing out in Germany for the next month or so.

I’m the sort of person who needs the various layers of soccer explained to me—the leagues, the tiers, the tournaments, city teams, country teams, etc. As I understand it, this particular tournament only occurs every four years and is exclusive to the European countries. Actually, not all European countries get to participate. Only the 24 that qualified of the 44 European countries. So the usual stalwarts like England, Spain, and the Netherlands are there next to some up-and-comers like Slovakia or Georgia. But some familiar friends like Ireland, Greece, and Sweden have to watch from home.

Unfortunately, I won’t be romping around Germany during this tournament trying to scavenge up bags of Haribo and downing liters of Krombacher. But here in Chicago, there’s plenty of places to find passionate fans tuning in to every match. There are some world class soccer bars in the city, but its also fun to seek out an enclave that has roots in the home country. The kind of place that pulls a TV out onto the sidewalk for the match. The Roman pizza place for the Italy match. The Scottish Pub for the Scotland match. The Slovenian bar for the Slovenian match. (Yes, there’s a Slovenian bar in Chicago).

Anyways, this tournament starts today and wraps on July 14 with matches on most days in between. Click below for a map I made of some Chicago bars and restaurants that pair with the countries competing in the Euro…

Chicago Euro Map

Here in Chicago, when a summer Saturday rolls around with blue skies, warm weather, and a clear calendar, there is no better way to spend the day than frolicking around the city with no particular agenda other than to take in as many of the sights, sounds, tastes and experiences as the city has to offer. Many cities may boast about a similar mix of food, architecture, cultural institutions, accessibility and diversity, but Chicago sets up remarkably well for this sort of impromptu adventure. Yes, there’s crime. Yes, there’s segregation. Yes, there’s cold, shitty weather a few months of year. But taken as a whole, the pros of this metropolis far outweigh the cons. You can enjoy a coffee here, a cocktail there, maybe take a dip in the lake, catch a few innings of a game, peruse some art, wander through a street fest, pop in on some friends, and late night dine your heart out. It is indeed possible to do all these things in one day without stepping foot in a car. I call these kind of days, a “Great Chicago Day.” When it all comes together, it’s like a pub crawl, a dinner party, restaurant week, opening day, an architectural tour, and the last day of school all rolled into one.

When venturing out for a Great Chicago Day, the point is to bounce around rather than linger at any one spot too long. Maybe plan a few stops, but keep an open mind for those unexpected discoveries and jump at opportunity when it arises. You can do the day solo, but its best enjoyed with a sidekick. If you have a larger group, it limits your ability to get seated without a reservation or squeeze into that lost slot at the bar.

Forget the car. You don’t want to deal with the parking or the traffic. You don’t even want to take your own bike. You don’t want to be tethered down and it’s more fun to mix up your mode of transport around the city throughout the day. Start off on foot and rely on taxis, public transport, Divvy, Lime, etc. The city’s flatness is a benefit here as much can be explored on foot, and every neighborhood is serviced by public transportation. If done right, your Great Chicago Day will involve you getting on the Chicago River Water Taxi at some point.

Without question, when it comes to food and drink, from the finest dining to the dingiest of dives, Chicago will go toe-to-toe with any city on earth. And to really enjoy all that the city has to offer, you should be willing to venture to both ends of that spectrum. A Chicago Dog, Italian Beef, or Quesabirria can be every bit as transcendant as the ribeye at Bavette’s or the tasting menu at Alinea. Much like New York or London, you can find a restaurant for just about every country on earth, but in Chicago these things tend to come in bunches. From the Vietnamese restaurants, markets and cafes of Uptown/Argyle to the German bars and fests of Lincoln Square with Chinatown, Little Italy and Ukranian Village in between—just to name a few—you can easily spend a day hopping continents all within the city limits. Rather than being defined by socioeconomics, the character of many neighborhoods exudes the flavor and cultural vibes of its early inhabitants, and these often shift in a matter of just a few blocks.

Chicago might not be as musically-minded as Nashville or as art and fashion-heavy as New York, but you better believe there’s world class institutions for all of the above. From clubs to galleries to street fests, you will find something to suit your taste.

Unlike many other metro areas, all of the major sports stadiums are within the city limits—if not tucked into neighborhoods themselves—making it easy to work them into an itinerary. If you aren’t a fan of any of the Chicago teams, the city is a magnet for much of the Midwest, so no matter how bad the Cubs, Sox, Bears, Bulls, Hawks, or even the Fire are playing, there is always a team to cheer on somewhere. On my street alone, I know a Bears fan, a Lions fan, a Packers fan, a Steelers fan, a Bengals fan, a Browns fan, and a Bills fan. There’s even a Chicago bar dedicated to Las Vegas Raiders fans for chrissakes.

The climate forces the scheduling of the majority of the festivals to be condensed into just a few months—not to mention the long-standing pastime of neighborhood groups creating their own block parties—which means its nearly impossible to avoid simply stumbling upon some sort of public party.

A Great Chicago Day starts early and ends late. Breakfast lunch and dinner are to be enjoyed out of home. If you aren’t sure where to start, consider incorporating a few of the following into your adventure:

ACTIVITY

Do a physical activity. Hit some balls at the Diversey Driving Range. Call that friend with a sailboat. Bike along the 606. Kayak the Chicago River.

CULTURAL INSTITUTION

Visit a cultural institution. The point here is to just skim the surface of one of these beauties. Do a leisurely stroll through the Lincoln Park Zoo, peruse a few rooms of the MCA, catch a few innings at Wrigley, or just admire the skyline from the Planetarium.

COFFEE

Metric, Eataly, Le Colombe, Ritual, 3 Arts Club Cafe, to name a few.

INTERNATIONAL

Eat/drink something “international.” Moroccan mint tea from Shokran. A Vietnamese banh mi from Nhu Lan. Filipino Sisig from Boonie’s.

HIGH

Eat/Drink something fancy. Dine at the bar at Bavette’s. Try the crudo at Nobu. Enjoy a martini at RL.

LOW

Eat/Drink something low brow. Chicago really surprises when you discover the wings at Budacki’s, the birria tacos at Quesabirria Jalisco, or the Depression Dog from Gene & Jude’s.

SWEET

Eat/Drink something sweet. A Paris Brest from Southern France Patisserie. A Beard Papa cream puff. Oreo Drop Cake from Te Amo. A bag of goodies from Amy’s Candy Bar.

CLASSIC

Visit a “Chicago Classic.” Pequod’s. Berghoff. Manny’s. Rainbow Cone. Twin Anchors. Second City. Green Mill. These are the places you take for granted, but are always worth a visit.

FRIEND

Work some friends into the mix. Bonus points if you meet up with someone you haven’t seen in a while.

NEW

Try something you have never done before. Get a hot towel shave. Try a platza at Bath House. Go see a drag show, magic show, improv show, or a traditional Irish session.

OUTDOORS

Hang out on a patio and/or rooftop. Take in mind-blowing lake and architecture views from Cindy’s. Grab a beer and sausage on the roof at Gene’s. Or simply watch part of the game on the patio at Roscoe Village Pub or the roof at Reggie’s.

LATE NIGHT

Work in a night cap and/or late night bite. Fire Chicken from Dancen. A burrito from Allende. One for the road from Snickers. Yes, Snickers.

Let me create a Great Chicago Day Itinerary for you…

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Lake Lights

Continuing 2024’s remarkable streak of wondrous natural spectacles, the Northern Lights made an extremely rare appearance into southern latitudes this month. According to some online aurora trackers, these things seem to swirl around the globe in various intervals, and some friends and I waited it out along the southern shores of Lake Michigan where there is little light pollution. For a couple hours nothing seemed to change with the night sky. But eventually, a faint greenish haze started to appear in a direction across the lake which is normally jet black. Low and behold, the aurora borealis crept ever closer our way. All in all, it lasted about 20 or 30 minutes from beginning to end, like a passing thunderstorm. But this one was silent, florescent, and ever-shifting. There were waves and rising streaks of purple, maroon, teal and chartreuse. The camera picked up the colors in dramatic effect, but even with the naked eye this was a shocking and heavenly sight.

If you are into these sorts of celestial events, a planetary alignment is taking place June 3, 2024 where six planets will all be visible in a row with the naked eye— Jupiter, Mercury, Uranus, Mars, Neptune and Saturn.

If you’re looking for a new podcast…

I can’t stop listening to the nerdy but fascinating podcast called “Acquired” which tells incredibly detailed back stories of many of the world’s most famous companies like Apple, Nike, Porsche, and Nintendo. Each episode plays out somewhat like an elaborate book report of key players, pivotal decisions, and business practices that affect each company’s standing in the world today. The hosts go super deep with the details which are fascinating and revealing. Who knew some of the NBA’s global success today can be attributed to the fact that YMCAs have been in China since the 1800s? And the one about Hermes is incredible for how it unpacks how this brand has acted contrary to nearly every established marketing practice in its way to becoming one of the premier luxury brands on the planet.

Skatepark Scarf

Speaking of Hermes, now that I know that every scarf they make is hand made by a fleet of various artisans and master craftsmen, offered for a limited time, and takes at least two years to plan and manufacture, it is even cooler to learn that one of my favorite artist/designers, Geoff McFetridge, has been tapped to create art for a Hermes scarf. This one features amazing artwork of a skateboard park:

Salmon Crispy Rice Cake

My wife and I ping each other when a good looking recipe pops up in our Instagram feeds. Jen forwarded this one by @sivanskitchen my way and it was mind blowing. It had all the flavors of sushi but presented more like focaccia. We don’t do a lot of fish on our own but this thing looked so good and the weather was so nice that it just felt like the right thing to do. I found it relatively easy to pull off, and thanks to the colorful mix of avocado, red onion, cilantro, serrano pepper, spicy mayo and sesame seeds, the presentation was awesome. Even the teens liked it!

View Recipe on Instagram

Lists: Ways to Describe the Khruangbin Sound

Khruangbin is a band that has a distinctive sound that sounds like it is new and old and familiar and exotic and exciting and chill all at the same time, and it is hard to describe their genre of music exactly. Here are some attempts at doing so:

• 70s Psychadelic Surf Funk
• Thai-Tex-Mex-Indie-Funk-Fire
• New Mood
• Neo-Funk
• World Groove
• Pulp Fiction on Acid
• Hip Speakeasy Elevator
• Psychedelic lounge dub
• Desert Surf Rock
• Don Draper’s Living Room

Recent Listens: Helado Negro

Here’s an intriguing artist I came across that has Khruangbin vibes, but isn’t Khruangbin.

Listen on Spotify

Tom Dennehy, 1933-2024

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FINE DINING

If you haven’t been to Detroit in a while, you will be blown away by the amount of amazing, high end restaurants that are now in the city. These three all feature great food coupled with amazing ambiance…

Le Supreme is a full on Parisian brasserie that recently opened in the newly restored architectural masterpiece, the Book Tower. Afterwards, see if you can find the five other bars that are located in this same building.

Take an elevator to the bustling second floor restaurant of Wright & Company which overlooks Woodward Avenue and enjoy top notch modern fare.

Descend down a flight of stairs to the subterranean meat lair of the London Chop House which had its heyday in the 50s, but is every bit as great today.

PIZZA

If you are seeking Detroit-Style Pizza—and you should—it is hard to beat the experience at the original Buddy’s Pizza location at 6-mile in Conant. This hole-in-the-wall spot is always filled with interesting characters. Where else would you encounter some cops eating lunch next to a pack of friars who are next to some guys who just got off their shift who are pounding Miller Lites next to some hipsters from Belgium who heard that this place has the world’s best pizza? The sign outside still uses the original lingo of “Buddy’s Rendezvous” and it should be in the Smithsonian. There’s a bocce court out back which is a great place to hang if you have a group. And of course the pizza is excellent. They put the sauce on top of the cheese which keeps the dough from becoming too heavy or dense, and also allows the cheese to congeal along the edges to create an immaculate crunch.

If you want to try the new school version of Detroit-Style pizza, the next best option is Grandma Bob’s over in Corktown.

DIVES

I dare you to find a better drinking establishment in the entire country than Cafe D’Mongo’s. It’s only open Friday and Saturday night so it’s alwasy rocking with a wild mix of folks from all walks of life. There’s a funky layout with all kinds of bric-a-brac and the most amazing orange vinyl bar chairs. There’s a rollicking two piece band tucked into a corner that will blow your mind. There’s food in the form of ribs, chicken and grilled cheese. there’s the infamous “Detroit Brown” cocktail which pairs Crown Royal from right across the river and the homegrown favorite, Vernors ginger ale. And of course, there is the world class proprietor, Larry Mongo, who should be a lead chracter in the next Tarantino film.

A little further afoot in southwest detroit you will find the century old corner bar, Abick’s. Enjoy hard to find Detroit brew, Altes, while bellying up to the mahogany bar. Check out the somewhat secret back room cigar lounge where there’s tons of police, fire and military memorabilia from patrons and the owner’s family. There’s an old police call box which is reputed to stock the commissioner’s private liquor stash. Be sure to say hi to Shadow, the resident pooch.

CONEY’S

Do yourself a favor and before retiring and make your way to Lafayette Coney Island for a nightcap. There are two competing coney-serving restaurants side-by-side on this downtown stretch of Michigan Avenue, but I prefer the beaten-up old school charm of Lafayette over American. Order yourself a Coney with everything (no bean, beef chili + mustard + diced onions), and enjoy how the warm embrace of the steamed bun contrasts perfectly with the snap of the encased meat. Vernors is the way to go for a drink, but you can also wash it down with a beer. The waiters are a wonder to watch as they work from memory and perform circus-like antics when transporting an arm’s length worth of platters to tipsy diners.

“THERE ARE CITIES THAT GET BY ON THEIR GOOD LOOKS, OFFER CLIMATE AND SCENERY, VIEWS OF MOUNTAINS OR OCEANS, ROCKBOUND OR WITH PALM TREES. AND THERE ARE CITIES LIKE DETROIT THAT HAVE TO WORK FOR A LIVING.”

- Elmore Leonard

I just need to say a few words here about the best app on the planet, the Masters app.

This app only needs to exist for about one week a year—four days,really—and yet it outpaces any other app I use on a regular basis on many fronts.

In case you don’t know what I’m talking about, the Masters app serves the annual Masters Golf Tournament which is the premiere golf tournament in the world. There is countless lore surrounding this tournament. It attracts the best golfers in the world. They play on one of the most challenging courses in the world. And it exists on the grounds of one of the most elite private clubs in the world, Augusta National Golf Club in Augusta, Georgia, USA. Notable members past and present to this club include Warren Buffett, Bill Gates, Roger Goodell, Peyton Manning, Jack Nicklaus, Condoleeza Rice, Dwight Eisenhower, Jack Welch, and T. Boone Pickens, Jr. I’m not sure what T. Boone did in his life to gain access to Augusta, but the name just sounds like someone who would be a member of a really exclusive private golf club.

Anyways, even if you don’t like golf, you may appreciate the design and user experience provided by the Masters app. Here’s a rundown…

It’s Free

Despite membership to the club costing somewhere far north of $100,000, and the annual total purse that will be distributed to players being $20 million dollars, the Masters app is totally free to download. And aside from an ad or two that you might watch when you first open the app, the user experience is essentially ad free and seamless from there on out.

The Video

One of the most remarkable aspects of this app is how it magically, seamlessly, effortlessly plays endless video clips with sound. It does this so quickly and with such high quality that you wonder if the app somehow upgraded your phone without you knowing it. There’s no lag. No interruption. It somehow manages to display video better than when I watch my own videos that are saved on my phone. You can instantly tune into the livestream broadcast. You can watch any number of player highlights and interviews and behind the scenes stories. You can search for a video clip of any player on any hole on any day and pull up that exact clip within seconds. Trust me, it somehow showcases video better than any other app you have ever used and I’m not sure how it does it.

The Design

The overall design of the app is clean elegant and uncomplicated. Logos, icons and type are all sized perfectly. Line weight is exactly right. The color scheme is simple and instantly recognizable as The Masters. Photos are gorgeous. The layout is intuitive, easy to navigate, and manages to pull off the rare feat of organizing massive amounts of information in a way that doesn’t feel overwhelming.

The Players

If you are one of the rare folks who manage to get an invitation to this tournament, be forewarned because the Masters app manages to know more about you than the IRS and it reveals it for all to see. Click on player’s name from the Leaderboard and you are taken to a single page where you see their portrait, name, representing country, biography, birthplace, residence, education background, tee time, current tournament position, current scorecard, stats, scoring average, lifetime earnings, playing history, social profiles, a slew of recent news links, and even their god damn weight. There’s instantaneous video of them playing live. When viewing their scorecard, you click on any hole and instantly watch video of how they performed on every stroke of the hole. With a click or two, you can literally watch a continuous string of concise video clips of every single stroke that player had in the entire tournament.

The “Track” feature takes all this to another level by mapping and plotting every stroke on every hole. Click on any point and you can view video of that particular moment.

The Course

The actual golf course is like a revered entity all its own where every hole, bridge and creek has a name, every plant has a purpose and and every obstacle has a thousand stories to tell. The app allows you to dig deeper than you could ever imagine into any of this minutiae. Why is Hole No. 14 called “Chinese Fir.” Did you know that “Tea Olive” had a left bunker removed from the fairway in 1935? And which 2014 weather event led to the demise of the loblolly pine known as the Eisenhower Tree? The Masters App knows all.

The Experience

Buried in the app is a ton of other content that you can discover relating to the overall experience. What food is served on the course? What food is served at the players private dinner? What do the accommodations look like for the amateurs? What kind of merch do they sell? What time does the course open to patrons? Can I play Fantasy Masters? What are some great moments from Masters history? Which hole is loudest? What’s up with the Green Jacket? What the hell is a yardage book? How do I get tickets to future events? The app allows you to dive into stories, images and videos of any and all of these things.

Get the Masters App

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Oh my goodness this eclipse.

No one wants to hear more eclipse stories at this point, but I need to get my experience down on paper because what I was lucky enough to witness for even a few brief seconds was nothing short of extraordinary. It was absolutely one of those rare times in life where you literally cannot believe what you are seeing with your own eyes. Made all the more surreal by the fact this is a live, natural, purely organic occurrence that manages to feel mathematically, geometrically, cinematically, perfect.

I’ve witnessed a handful of these at this stage of my life where the day adjusts to an evening glow for a few brief minutes, or the minuscule crescent shape appears through a pair of those flimsy eclipse glasses, but this was the first time where I made the effort to situate myself within the notorious “path of totality” which I now know is the single most critical factor for witnessing the eclipse’s full effect. This is the narrow strip of lunar shadow where the moon conceals the view of the sun a full 100%. Because the sun is so powerful, even 1% of the sun’s rays will negate the effect of the total solar eclipse as the brightness will always be visible. But if you can find your way into that path, things get biblical.

I was working in Detroit on the day of the eclipse and my meeting wrapped about 3 hours before it was to occur. Detroit was slated to witness 99.2% solar coverage, but the “path of totality” was passing a mere 60 miles away south near the Ohio border. The day was clear and my afternoon was free, so I decided to make a go at seeing how close I could get to the path. I figured I would take rural roads south and when the time arose I would simply pull over and watch the event.

The country roads where busy, but not bumper-to-bumper like the freeways, although I’m sure the various people who I saw cutting their lawn or sitting on their porch in preparation for the eclipse must have grumbled at the uptick in traffic on these infrequently traveled roads.

I started to get some Heavenly vibes when the town of Dundee suddenly appeared on my car’s navigation. That is the town where my father’s family comes from in Scotland. I never knew there was a Dundee in Michigan. Even crazier was the next street that I was instructed to turn on was Stewart Road. Stewart is the name of my dad’s father. I would have totally lost it right then and there if a Kent Road or Kent Creek were to suddenly appear.

My ancestral homeland appearing out of nowhere on the navigation.

I tuned into AM radio as I trudged along. They were reporting about the eclipse in various ways. A tip proved to be pivotal when the announcer mentioned that during totality, it would be possible to view Jupiter at the 11 o’clock position and Venus at the 5 o’clock position. Because the totality is so brief, these coordinates wold later help me quickly recognize those points in the sky.

With about 30 minutes to spare, I crossed the Ohio border. According to a NASA website I was technically within the path of totality, so I started to look for a scenic spot to pull over. I passed a few church parking lots and parks that were filled up with tailgaters and picnickers setting up for the spectacle. I decided to push on a little longer until I finally came upon the first stop light I had seen in a while. About a block from the intersection, a beacon startled me. Waffle House. I love the design of the Waffle House sign. I love the open kitchen format. I love the insane mix of individuals that always seem to inhabit these crazy places. And I had no idea there was a Waffle House so far north! I really only ever visit one when I am in Florida. This one had a quasi-festival going in the parking lot as numerous people were milling around sitting on tailgates and looking up at the sky. I pulled in, ordered a coffee, then camped out by my car with the rest of the sun seekers.

Outside Waffle House about 15 minutes before go time.

As the seconds inched closer, the light was definitely shifting from a bright sunny day to something that felt stormy despite no real clouds in the sky. The lights from the nearby gas station flickered on, followed by the Waffle House sign suddenly illuminating. When glancing through the glasses, I saw the slightest bit of sun poking out from behind the moon. When trying to view the sun with the naked eye, it still hurt to look up because the light was so intense.

And then my fellow observers start to howl. Oh. My. God. No way. Wow, wow, WOW! Looking through the glasses, I see nothing. When I take them off and look straight up into the sky, I see stars. Or planets. There was Venus as previously announced. Above that is the most perfectly black, perfectly circular hole in the center of the sky. Like a sinister heavenly orb that leads to another dimension. The sky all around is dark like it is an hour after sunset when you are near an ocean, but not pure black dark, so the moon’s stark silhouette really jumps out. I see hints of the faintly flaming corona like an iris surrounding a pupil. I look down at the pavement because I’m not sure if I should be looking directly at the eclipse with the naked eye. But I’ve come this far. I can’t not look! I peer up again to see that the magnificent moon is still there.

And then it’s not.

Much too soon, the sun concludes this cosmic tease by peeking out again. Its mighty rays overwhelm the scene. The black circle sadly disappears. The sky brightens. Within seconds you are asking yourself if what you saw even happened. In this case, the totality lasted less than a minute. You want to rewind or do it again, but the moon has continued on its merry way and one must wait a couple decades for a repeat of this celestial show.

Before and during the show, approximately 3pm and 3:14pm EST.

It’s true that solar eclipses happen with some frequency. The earth averages about two per year. But it is interesting to contemplate just how rare these events are to witness fully. Location, timing, weather and luck all need to work in your favor. For starters, since the Earth’s surface is 71% water, and the area above and below the Arctic Circle and Antarctic Circle is about 8%, the likelihood of most people to ever be in the remote vicinity one of these things is really about 1/5 (And the US only makes up about 6% of that non-ocean surface area, so chances go down from there). Assuming one is happening in your part of the world, you need to make your way somewhere within the path of totality which is different with each eclipse. In this most recent case, the path was 9,190 miles long and averaged 109 miles wide. Sounds like a large area, but that is only 0.005% of the earth’s surface. Finding your way into that sliver of the earth is no easy task because the eclipse occurs for such a short time and at such a precise moment that you will be dealing with potentially hundreds of thousands of other people who are all trying to get into that same sliver of earth at the same time. And even if you do get to the right spot at the right time, now you just need to hope that there are no clouds. The next one that will occur in the contiguous 48 states is 21 years from now. But I hear the real eyepopper is happening in Egypt in 2027 when the weather will likely be favorable and the eclipse will be visible for a whopping six minutes and twenty three seconds which is plenty of time to contemplate the wonders of our very existence.

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Spring is beckoning. Easter is upon us. The Greek one. It’s time to do the lamb.

We’re talking here about an entire lamb—head to hoof—cooked over a coal spit. From prep to feast, we’re looking at a two day affair.

I’ve only attempted this succulent pageant solo once, but I have gone through the gauntlet numerous times with my late Father-in-law, Dr. Ilias Karas. We called him Doc. He grew up in Athens as the son of a butcher, so he knew his way around a carcass.

In Greece, the slaughtering of a spring lamb is the most important celebration on the calendar. This ancient ritual honors the gods and celebrates the renewal of life that happens all around this time of year—the return of flowers, the replenishing of crops, the warmer days. In Ancient Greece, Dionysius, God of Wine and Pleasure, oversaw the feast. In my day, the Doc was in charge.

This sort of thing can’t really be done in a day. You can’t just go buy a frozen lamb from Costco and fire up a grill. Prep starts at least a week out. You need to make friends with a local butcher and order a fresh lamb ahead of time. You can ask them to remove the head if that sort of thing wigs you out (Doc had a taste for the brains, but that’s a story for another day). Even when you procure the prize, you need to prep it and let it rest overnight, then cook it all day on the following day. There’s also a bit of time required to get the spit set up in a place that is sheltered somewhat from wind, and, if possible, scenic. Once you get this operation in full swing, you’re going to be settled for many hours. Doc used to do this on the roof of his family home in Athens with a view of the Acropolis in the distance. Oh, and you also may need to take apart half of your refrigerator to make room for the body that you are going to stuff into it overnight.

Doc on the roof in Athens going old school with the hand crank spit.

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Desert sky—
Dream beneath the desert sky.
The rivers run, but soon run dry.
We need new dreams tonight.

- U2, In God’s Country, The Joshua Tree

Deserts tend to be renown as lifeless voids. But the southeastern corner of California that contains the resort town of Palm Springs and Joshua Tree National Park is packed with wonders. Below are some highlights along with an interactive map.

Palm Springs

In the town of Palm Springs, you can frolic the day away in the impeccable weather and with the utmost leisure amidst poolside cocktails, carpaccio platters, and polo matches. Whether you are a golfer, a gambler, a foodie, a hiker, a biker, an ATV rider, an aviation enthusiast, an environmentalist, an architecture buff, an art collector, a Sinatra fan, or are just seeking some sun, you’ll find something to your liking. The airport alone is worth the trip with its open air terminal that jolts the senses the minute you walk off the plane.

Two gents discussing football diving catch strategies in the pool at the Butterfly House in the Racquet Club Road Estates.

As far as food and drink, some Sinatra-era restaurants and lounges still hold up such as Melvyn’s and Mr. Lyons. More modern charm can be found at Azucar, Workshop and Sandfish. For coffee or breakfast, try Farm, Acai Oasis or Ernest Coffee in Palm Springs or Más o Menos in Joshua Tree.

Poolside tartar at Azucar.

There are numerous incredible hikes within 15 minutes from the town, but the Palm Canyon Trail is otherwordly on a many levels. It’s a mountain valley with a consistent source of flowing water that provides conditions that allow a mile long forest of towering palm trees to exist. A tranquil shaded hike always in earshot of a flowing stream has you admiring desert palms and snowcapped mountain peaks all in a single glance. An hour in and you have your choice of tracing your steps back, continuing onto more extreme mountain trails, or circling back along the Victor Trail which takes you atop various smaller peaks for a completely different experience on the way back to the Trading Post.

Palms and springs.

Joshua Tree

Drive an hour and you strip away all that glamour and excess in the off-the-grid, out-of-cell-service, boulder-strewn moonscape of Joshua Tree National Park. Just driving through the park is worthwhile to catch glimpses of the otherworldly rock formations and desert flora including the namesake cacti with the bizarre blooming habits. But you are vastly rewarded if you pull over even briefly to venture into the surroundings. The scale of the rocks are deceptively inviting, allowing most anyone to scamper up and explore in various directions. You regain a sense of a kid building a sandcastle as you choose your own line, discover dinosaur-size crevices, and leap across expanses. You might be 100 yards from your parked car, but you before you know it you are in another world wondering how the hell you are going to get back down.

When in Joshua Tree National Park, a great day-long itinerary is to visit at least one of the easily accessible boulder-ish formations of White Tank, Jumbo Rock, or Skull Rock where you can explore within site of the parking lot. Then try a more involved hike such as the one to Barker Dam which won’t take long and even young children can do it without too much effort. Finally, drive up to Keys View where you can marvel at sweeping views of the Coachella valley and Salton Sea.

All in all, this one-two punch of Palm Springs and Joshua Tree works well whether you are on a girl’s weekend, a honeymoon, or a family spring break. And a great place to stay while you are in the area is the Butterfly House in Palm Springs which is a single home rental with many first class amenities including pool, hot tub, bocce court, indoor and outdoor fireplaces, and impeccable landscaping, art and furnishings.

This house does not suck.

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Palm Springs
Mr. Lyon’s • New York Strip
Mister Parker’s • Lobster Pappardelle
Sandfish • The Venue Roll
Azucar • Yellow Tuna Tartar
Workshop Kitchen & Bar • Local Citrus Curd
Farm • Chicken BLT
Acai Oasis • Acai Cup
Ernest Coffee • Pistachio Latte

Joshua Tree
Pappy & Harriet’s • Ribs
Mas o Menos • Caffeinate

Melvyn’s • Martini
Barn Kitchen • Bloody Mary
The Colony • Aperol Spritz
Paul Bar • Margarita

Palm Springs
Palm Canyon Trail • Palm-shaded hike
Palm Springs Art Museum • Hockney
Palm Springs Aerial Tram • Snowy peaks
Off Road Rentals • Half hour ATV dune ride
The Butterfly House • Art-filled, modernist home rental gem

Joshua Tree
Barker Dam • Desert Stroll
Jumbo Rocks • Scampering
White Tank • White Tank
Keys View • Salton Sea view
Cholla Cactus Garden • Teddybear Cholla
Pioneertown • Strutting

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St. Patrick’s Day is upon us, and here in Chicago, this holiday is quite the spectacle. By mid-March, the city is crawling out of the winter blues and ready to party. There’s an Irish pub in every neighborhood in the city. There’s not one, but two parades—one downtown and one on the south side of the city where a sizeable sect of Irish reside. And the coup de grâce is the colossal civic splendor of the Chicago River dyed an incomprehensible shade of green.

If you’re seeking a pint on St. Patrick’s Day in Chicago, you won’t have to walk far. Here’s a map plotting the 100+ Irish pubs in the city…

View Chicago Irish Pub Map

And if you are looking for a short list, here’s a few:

River North (these are all within a few blocks of each other):
• Brehon Pub
• Kerryman
• Celtic Crossing
• Fado
• Smith & Wollensky (Not technically an Irish Pub, but the bar area of this steakhouse is particularly festive during the dying of the river)

North Side classics:
• Chief O’Neill’s
• Fifth Province

South Side classics:
• Cork & Kerry
• Porter Cullen’s
• Barney Callaghan’s
• The Carraig

Kerry Talk

My mother-in-law, Marie, was born on the family farm in the tiny town of Currow in County Kerry in the southwest of Ireland. Well before they ever dyed the river green in Chicago, Marie had relatives who came to work in Chicago, and she immigrated to the city a couple generations later in the 1960s. I didn’t come to know her until the 1990s, but ever since then, I have took note of these magical phrases that she would occasionally drop into conversation…

“You could hear the grass grow.”

“Like a pocket in a shirt.”

“You wouldn’t call the Queen your aunt!”

“More porter for the woman in the bed!”

These were often simple utterances delivered without much thought, but they would always stop me in my tracks. The word choices somehow seemed totally foreign and completely familiar at the same time. And there was an enchanting lyricality to the phrasing, which I have since learned is a trademark of Irish conversation.

A couple years back I published a collection of these phrases in a book called “Kerry Talk” as an ode to Marie. It couples her anecdotes with illustrations of familiar Irish sights: A block of Kerry Gold butter. The Guinness toucan. A Dublin door. A Spar storefront.

Buy "Kerry Talk"

I also produced a few other limited edition items inspired by the quotes. Reach out if you are interested in any of this stuff and I can try to make more.

Things I miss about Ireland:

I lived for a year in Dublin. These are the things I miss:

• Abrakebabra’s “Chip Butty”
• “Father Ted”
• Tea Service with Uncle George
• Toner’s toastie
• Howth hikes
• A Mulligan’s pint
• Walking past the Pepper Cannister to work
• Watching Six Nations rugby
• Hanging with Helen
• Irish sessions
• The Stations mass
• The literary traditions
• Banoffee Pie
• The warm breezes of the Inch Strand
• Watching William eat breakfast (Full gallon of milk, half loaf of bread, half block of cheddar cheese, half bag of Maltesers)

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CSO’s “An American in Paris”

Every now and then, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra adds one of these types of performances on the calendar where they hang a cinema screen directly above the musicians and play a movie while they perform the score live. “Home Alone.” “The Godfather.” They are doing “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” in May.

I stumbled upon an ad for “An American in Paris” and I decided to drag Jen to it. For the record, nothing irks Jen more than the thought of a “jazz-influenced symphonic poem.” She would have much preferred I take her to see Lauryn Hill or Arcade Fire or something alone those lines, nonetheless, she put on her game face and joined me for this Hollywood Golden Age classic.

I am not a fan of musicals, but I get sucked up into the nostalgia of this one. I spent a year in Florence, Italy, and the Parisian setting of the movie reminds me of my time spent abroad when days were spent wandering endlessly around cobblestone streets, hanging out in cafes, and meeting people from all over the world. The starving artist painter role Gene Kelly plays reminds me of when I would set up for an afternoon and sketch churches and bridges and interesting characters roaming around town. The opening scene features this miraculously choreographed single take of Kelly in his studio apartment, rhythmically going through the motions of waking up, stretching, making breakfast, getting dressed, and beginning his day. I know, I sound like I’m 80 years old, but you gotta check it out. And Gene Kelly has this signature style throughout the film which I am willing to bet later on inspired Michael Jackson: white socks, rolled pants, and black loafers.

Taking all of this all from high up in Symphony Center, it was fun to shift attention back and forth between the movie and the orchestra. Even though I actually love this film, I don’t think I’ve ever watched it all the way through—the second half has a 17 minute dialogue-free dance routine between Kelly and Leslie Caron. But in this setting, aided by an intermission where we could refill the vino, it was actually fun to view the whole thing.

New Blue Sun Live

Moving on to the current century, I managed to get a ticket to see Andre 3000 perform New Blue Sun Live at the Garfield Park Conservatory which was a perfect setting for this music. This is a 115 year old conservatory that houses trees, plants and flowers from all around the world. About 200 guests sat amongst the foliage to enjoy the intimate show.

To get you up to speed, three months ago, one of the biggest hip hop acts of all time dropped his first new album in 17 years and not only is there not a single lyric uttered on the entire record, the man plays various flutes the whole time. It’s spa-like. New agey. Hotel lobby-ish. I suppose it’s ultimately Jazz. It’s actually great background music for getting work done.

I wasn’t sure how this sort of thing would pan out live. About 20 minutes into the show, Andre explained that this wasn’t a show at all. He wasn’t going to play any of the “songs” from the album. Rather, this was going to be an in-the-moment experience where he and his band mates were going to improvise based on the vibe of the room. Free form, baby. Thank God we had a cool room.

Something about the leafy setting, throbbing rhythms and free form flute made much of the performance resemble the soundtrack to a jungle cruise amusement park ride. Then we drifted off to Morocco with some snake charming before channeling a full on steam engine and stretching some balloons.

Andre encouraged the audience to participate which led to a handful of lame shouts, yips and cackles that went nowhere. Stretches went by where I was expecting some sort of transportive payoff, but there really weren’t any. I giggled to myself at one sequence which resembled monkey cries. My buddy, Gavin, said he was thankful for the half of a gummy that he took as we walked in.

Overall, the best part of the event was when Andre addressed the audience to explain that he is surprised as everyone else that he is on stage playing a flute. He said one day he was walking along the beach in Venice, California, when he heard a sound that he admired which turned out to be coming from a lady playing a flute. He asked her where she got the instrument, ordered one from the same maker, and started messing around with it. He never played the instrument before and everything felt new. He kept waking up each day being excited to play the thing. That feeling never went away and here is is still playing the flute because it makes him feel good. I liked the purity and honesty of this story, and appreciated Andre’s commitment to just follow the feels and go where the winds take him.

I traveled to Michigan for work last week and I hung out for a night in Birmingham which is a fancy little town just a few miles northwest of Detroit. There’s some really nice centrally-located hotels from which you can walk to many great restaurants and shops, which is a rarity in the region unless you are staying in Downtown Detroit. Here in Birmingham, even the library is a great place to chill for a bit. I have my personal little trifecta for a night out as follows:

Streetside - Intimate, seafood-centric restaurant with a fantastic little bar area. Great for a drink and platter of oysters to get the ball rolling.

Bella Piatti - This is a true gem of a modern Italian restaurant. There’s exceptional food established by the Venetian born, Francesco Apollonia. Seasoned service led by ever-present General Manager, Kevin Mazziotta. There’s a warm ambiance with lots of cozy nooks and a lively bar that is always humming with gregarious groups, solo diners, and a celebrity or two.

La Strada - The attempt at elegance here is a bit off—there’s unnecessarily opulent furniture, dull lighting, stark tile, strange paint choices—but they have this pistachio cheesecake that is top notch.

Speaking of Pistachio Cheesecake, Melissa Clark explains two great ways to make it yourself! And you get to buy pistachio cream!

Wild story about how two Irish guys almost took over Nigeria.

This little Winnerwell Iron Stove is pretty rad in a make-your-own-steak-in-the-woods kind of way.

There’s “bored,” and then there’s “Cheetos-Sarcophagus bored.”

Did you know that Henry Ford built a colony to produce rubber in Brazil called “Fordlândia?”

You’ve never seen a “Pop-a-Shot” like this.

Who knew Michigan’s Upper Penninsula had an experts only ski resort?

“Saints be praised, for Professor Tucker Aloysius Mayflower Kennebunkport Backgammon Carlson III has arrived!”

— Jon Stewart, The Daily Show

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