Observation: A deer can jump higher than the average house. That is because deer have very strong hind legs, and the fact that the average house can’t jump. Wine time.

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Juicy with dark fruit and bold without being obnoxious (especially after decanting or some air time in a glass). Grows more impressive on the mid-palate and extended finish. Good complexity for a wine at this price point. $25-33

Located in the village of Gaiole, halfway between Florence and Siena in the heart of Tuscany, Tenuta Perano is an estate (“tenuta” is Italian for “estate” and is roughly similar to French “château” in wine terminology). The Perano location is in a natural amphitheater of steep, stony slopes at 1,640 feet with south-southwest exposure to capture heat and light. The elevation helps intensify the diurnal swing where cooler nights encourage acidity to balance tannins and ripeness created during the daytime heat. In short, an excellent place to grow Sangiovese, as this wine reflects.

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano vineyard

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano

The 2022 vintage saw a harsh winter with plenty of rainfall. Spring was mild, budbreak even and slightly early. Veraison was slightly early. Summer was hot, but graced with two rainfalls in August. That combination produced intense aromas and rich tannins. The August rains softened the tannins. In all, an excellent year at the estate.

Frescobaldi family

Members of the Frescobaldi family have been major players in Florence and Tuscany for more than 700 years. They began producing wine in Tuscany in 1308; some of their customers included Michelangelo and Henry VIII. At the high point of medieval Florence, the family spread its influence as bankers, earning the title of treasurer to the English crown. Later, with the flowering of the Renaissance, they became patrons of major works in Florence, including construction of the Santa Trinita bridge and the Basilica of Santo Spirito. Foreshadowing the Super Tuscan revolution, they began planting Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot vines in the region in 1855.

Lamberto Frescobaldi

In 2007, Lamberto Frescobaldi, the 30th generation of the family, became vice president and oversaw the renewal of the estates in the family’s extensive portfolio. In 2013, Lamberto became president of the company, taking over from his uncle Leonardo. Lamberto studied at UC-Davis and has worked to modernize the company and expand in the U.S. and other markets since the late 1980s. You have a good chance of finding this wine in better wine stores and online.

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022: Deep ruby-purple color; sour cherry, black cherry, raspberry, red plum, blackberry, black pepper, violets, tea leaf, tobacco, subtle spice on the nose and palate.

Dry (2.1 g/L RS); medium-plus tannins; medium-plus acidity. Medium body, somewhat taut, linear on pop-and-pour, becomes smooth and velvety with air; consider decanting. Blend of 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Matured 12 months in oak barriques and stainless steel. 14% ABV

Pairing—Tomato-based pasta and pizza; grilled steak (ribeye, sirloin, bistecca alla fiorentina); braised or slow-cooked red meats (lamb or beef ragù); porchetta; veal ribs with mushrooms; mushroom non-meat dishes. Avoid delicate fish, shellfish, and spicy dishes as they can overwhelm delicate seafood and amplify chili heat. Cheese—Aged, hard, salty cheeses; aged Pecorino Toscano, Parmigiano-Reggiano also Taleggio, Fontina, aged Asiago, moderately aged Manchego.

Frescobaldi website, rich with photos and videos

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2022

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano barrel aging

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano tasting area

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano dining area

Frescobaldi wine sales

Frescobaldi family

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Beronia Tempranillo Rioja, España 2023

Textbook example of the Tempranillo aromas and flavors you anticipate in a Rioja. It is 100% Tempranillo made to be relatively simple on your palate and easy on your pocketbook. Nothing to write about with exclamation points in your wine journal, but no need for frowning emojis either. Good weekday tipple from a consistent maker. Typically $14-18.

Fruit-forward, modern Rioja made for drinking young when all you want is a tasty wine that does not demand deep contemplation. This is young “joven” style Rioja (joven is Spanish for “young”) made with limited time in mixed oak barrels—American oak staves, French oak ends—to get oak impact in six months. Intended as an introductory effort leading to Beronia’s more serious, and more tannic and complex wines, for which you might pay up to double the price.

Bodegas Beronia

Bodegas Beronia barrel room

The Beronia company was founded in 1973 by a group of businessmen from the Basque Country and who would come to La Rioja on holiday. Sharing a love of food and wine, they created their own gastronomic society, or txoko as it is called locally. Next, they decided to produce their own wines to enjoy with the local cuisine, specializing in Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, for which they are now famous. This is a toddler Rioja compared to those efforts.

In 1982, the winery joined the González Byass Family of Wines and expanded into international markets. Today, Beronia is one of the best-known Spanish wineries in both international and domestic markets, producing pure, traditional Rioja wines with its own personality and Beronia style.

Bodegas Beronia bottle aging

Rioja is the best-known Spanish wine region. It lies in the valley of the Ebro River with the Cantabrian Mountains to the north and the Demanda range to the south. The region encompasses more than 165,000 acres of vines that produced more than 68.6 million gallons of wine in 2023. By contrast, the next year saw challenges, and the region produced 50 million gallons.

Rioja region old vine

Beronia vineyard

The region is traditionally believed to get its name from the Oja River (Río Oja in Spanish), but some sources indicate a Latin-Basque origin. Rioja is divided into three zones: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Baja (renamed Rioja Oriental in 2018). Bodegas Beronia is located in the village of Ollauri in north-central Spain and in the heart of Rioja Alta. Rioja Alta sits on the western edge of Rioja and is higher in elevation—hence the name—and is known for its Old World-style wines. The higher elevation means a shorter growing season and wines with bright fruit flavors that are lighter on the palate.

Beronia Tempranillo Rioja, España 2023: Deep ruby color; blackberry, black plum, cherry, blueberry, cocoa, vanilla, coconut, light spice on the nose and palate.

Dry; gentle tannins; enough acidity to be brisk without demanding attention. Medium body, juicy and round in the mouth rather than grippy or structured. Clean, mouthwatering finish that lingers long enough to be noticed. This is a value-focused Rioja to be enjoyed early. At three years, this is likely at its affable peak. Not a great Rioja, but more than adequate for a swirl you bought with spare change in your pocket. 14% ABV

Pairing—Grilled red meat, lamb, pasta with red sauces; grilled poultry, Ibérico sausage, seared pork tenderloin; mushroom and Mediterranean vegetable dishes. Meat-lover pizza, burgers and sliders, Spanish tapas, meatloaf. Cheese—Aged Manchego (6–12 months), Idiazábal, Mahón, Zamorano, young Ossau-Iraty, aged Gouda, Edam. Avoid pungent blues, very fresh goat cheese, and washed-rind cheeses.

Beronia website

Beronia Tempranillo Rioja, España 2023

Beronia vineyard

Beronia vineyard

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W. & J. Graham’s Six Grapes Special Vila Velha Edition Reserve Porto, Douro Valley, Portugal

Is there a better way to finish a quality meal than enjoying a glass of Porto (authentic port wine from Portugal)? I don’t think so either.

Medium-plus sweet; balancing acidity. Very full body. Velvety richness masks the high alcohol (19.5% ABV). “Reserve Porto” is relatively young port. The name indicates style and quality. Graham’s ages this wine two to three years in seasoned casks to preserve youthful fruit characteristics. $40–47

Graham’s vineyard

This is a single-vineyard production from Quinta da Vila Velha, property purchased by James Symington in 1987. Over the next three decades, Symington restored and expanded the quinta into a well-tended 358-acre riverside property with 135 acres under vine. Principally a blend of the Douro region’s major grapes: 56% Touriga Nacional (tannins, richness), 36% Touriga Franca (aromatics), 8% Alicante Bouschet (blackberry). Each variety is picked according to its ideal ripeness, then often fermented separately. Blending happens later according to each variety’s characteristics. Charles Symington was the winemaker. This special edition honored James Symington, who died in 2020.

William & John Graham

Brothers William and John Graham first established their firm in northwest Portugal to trade in textiles. In 1820, they accepted 27 barrels (“pipes”) of Porto in payment of a debt. Shortly thereafter, they devoted all their energy to making port wine. In the ensuing years, W. & J. Graham’s became one of the great Porto houses.

In 1970, the Symington family, who had produced Porto since 1882, purchased the Graham’s operation. The purchase represented an interesting twist, since 88 years before, the founder of Symington, A.J. Symington, began his career at Graham’s. The Symingtons now control or have historically controlled Cockburn’s, Graham’s, Warre’s, Dow’s, Smith Woodhouse, Gould Campbell, Quarles Harris, and Martinez—by far the world’s strongest Porto portfolio. They have the largest vineyard ownership in the Douro.

Symington family: Johnny, Rupert, Charles, Paul, Dominic

The six grapes label does not mean six different grapes. The grapes are grown and turned into wine in the upper Douro in northern Portugal, then transported to Gaia (on the opposite bank of the Douro from the port of Porto) where the wines are aged in “lodges” before being taken by truck to shipping facilities in the port city that gives the wine its name. To identify the different grades of wine leaving facilities in northern Portugal, barrels are marked with coded symbols describing the type of wine they contain. When the barrels are received in Gaia, the requisite symbol and quantity are entered into large ledgers known as “lot books.”

Graham’s vineyard

Graham’s adopted its own set of lot book codes, with geometric symbols, letters and other designs describing the style of the maturing wines. Only the wines with vintage potential were designated “Six Grapes”, that being the highest of their six possible classifications.

People sadly pigeonhole Porto as a winter wine to be sipped around blazing fireplaces while cold winds whistle outside. That is unfortunate. Porto is an all-the-year libation. Porto can be served chilled, which knocks down the heat on the finish and makes it a nice warm-weather drink. Graham’s suggests enjoying this at a summer evening picnic paired with s’mores and a campfire under starry skies. Sounds wonderful and decadently delicious.

Because it is a fortified wine, it can remain fresh after opening for two months if stored in a cool, dark place. Graham’s ports traditionally are sweeter and more fruit-driven than others. They’re also sensationally smooth on the palate and delicious. They virtually command you to take another sip—although at 19.5% ABV, some resistance is advised.

W. & J. Graham’s Six Grapes Special Vila Velha Edition Reserve Porto, Douro Valley, Portugal: Deep ruby-purple color; plum, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, raisin, licorice, chocolate, mocha, rosemary, mint, pine resin, esteva, subtle oak on the nose and palate. Medium-plus sweet (98 g/L); tight tannins; balancing acidity (4.6 g/L tartaric acid). Lush and jammy; a plum and chocolate delight. Intense and focused through long finish.

Pairing—While this is a classic after-dinner sipper enjoyed on its own, it also pairs with dark chocolate, chocolate desserts and other sweet desserts; pistachio sorbet; and dark chocolate truffles. Cheese—Mature and hard cheeses; blue cheese is classic; aged Gouda, Gruyère, Romano, Parmesan, Cheddar.

Graham’s website

Six Grapes website

W. & J. Graham’s Six Grapes Special Vila Velha Edition Reserve Porto, Douro Valley, Portugal

Graham’s vineyard

Graham’s barrel aging room

Graham’s library room

Graham’s barrel aging and tasting room

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Teliani Valley 8K Ancient Red, Georgia

Rich Saperavi wine aged in qvevri (clay amphora) in Georgian tradition dating back thousands of years. Georgian winemaking has made a spectacular comeback from its dreary days of Soviet plonk pushing. This is a crowd-pleasing example of that revival at a bargain price. $12-20

This is not complex, not exotic, just an acceptable everyday table wine. Part of its allure, certainly, is that you are drinking wine made in the birthplace of wine. Georgia can credibly claim an 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition, confirmed by archaeological evidence. By comparison, France’s prestigious classed-growth châteaux are still in their toddler-in-diapers stage.

Teliani Valley winery

Two young winemakers started Teliani Valley in 1997. Today’s winery was built largely from scratch rather than taking over a Soviet-era wine factory, but it is on a site that dates to a 19th-century winery. Its Soviet-era successor, the Teliani Wine Cellar No. 2, built in the 1950s. By 1997, the Soviet winery was largely in disrepair, certainly not configured for quality wine. The operation had built a new facility in 2005. Teliani Valley winery is located in Telavi, Kakheti Region, the heart of Georgia’s wine country. Grapes come from the 1,730-acre estate vineyard. Temuri Dakishvili is the winemaker.

Teliani Valley vineyard

Teliani Valley’s mission is to combine ancient Georgian winemaking—including the use of qvevri in this bottling—with modern equipment and techniques. Teliani also makes other wines using oak barrels, for instance. They aim to fuse the best of both worlds. That includes using indigenous grapes that teetered on the brink of extinction under the Soviet system that demanded quantity over quality. Georgians bristled under that imposition of state power and kept the ancient vines alive in backyard plots. Now we get to appreciate the fruits of those acts of courageous cultural preservation.

Saperavi means “paint” or “something to dye with” in Georgian, a reference to the wine’s deep purple-ruby color. Saperavi is one of the world’s few teinturier grapes—it has red flesh in addition to its red skin. This gives the wine its distinctive dark color. Native to the Kakheti region of eastern Georgia, it is now grown in Armenia, Moldova, Ukraine, Australia, and New York’s Finger Lakes region, testimony to its cold-hardiness when climate demands it and adaptable to various soil types. It ripens late while retaining natural acidity. Well worth a taste.

Teliani Valley harvest

Teliani Valley 8K Ancient Red, Georgia: Deep ruby color; blackberry, black plum, ripe cherry, pomegranate, black tea, licorice, clove, earth, dried herbs on the nose and palate.

Dry, but rich fruitiness gives the illusion of semi-dry; smooth, round tannins; pleasant acidity. Full, fleshy body. Its admirably discreet alcohol (12.5% ABV) keeps it from feeling massive. The finish amply delivers plush, lingering flavors. It is an easy-drinking, affordable gateway to Georgian wine.

Pairing—Grilled lamb chops, braised short ribs, hearty stews, barbecue. Roast duck, duck breast, game birds with berry reductions. Venison and other wild game. Creamy mushroom pastas. General comfort foods—meat lover’s pizza, meatloaf, hamburgers, tomato-based pastas. Cheese—Georgian aged Sulguni, smoked cow’s milk cheeses. Aged Gouda, sharp white Cheddar, Manchego, aged Pecorino.

Teliani Valley website

Teliani Valley 8K Ancient Red, Georgia

Teliani Valley qvevri

Teliani Valley qvevri cellar

Tending qvevri at Teliani Valley

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Fermentation Tom Wark’s blog has a 20-year history. Advocacy, criticism, analysis, news, reports, research, and his response to living a life in wine marketing, advocacy, and media relations.

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Two obstreperous poets argued very loudly in a pub.

Fed up with the ruckus, the pub owner ripped a scone in half and shoved a piece into each poet’s mouth. Both poets choked to death.

The pub owner killed two bards with one scone.

Wine time.

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Wedding Oak Winery Tioja Texas Red Wine 2022

Texas riff on Spain’s Rioja reds, “Tioja” being a play on the Spanish name. Tempranillo is the dominant Rioja grape, and dominates Texas’s Tioja, too, with a blending assist from Primitivo, Dolcetto, Pinot Noir, and Mourvèdre. Meat-friendly crowd pleaser worth finding. $30-37

The blend is a window into Texas winemaking. Tempranillo does well in Texas, where the climate echoes parts of Spain. While the grape has found a welcoming home in Texas in general, winemaker Penny Adams and her team had their hands full in 2022 from Texas weather. Beginning with a hard winter freeze, followed by stiff spring winds disrupted flowering (causing shattering), then triple-digit days in summer. Irrigation was required. Yields were restricted and the fruit more concentrated. Not a bad thing for wine quality, a vexation for the vineyard’s bean counters.

Wedding Oak owners Lynn and Mike McHenry

Mike and Lynn McHenry own Wedding Oak Winery. In 1996, on a whim following a trade show in Dallas, they purchased 112 acres south of San Saba, Texas. Soon thereafter, Mike retired after a 33-year career with Ecolab, a sustainability leader in water, hygiene, and infection prevention services worldwide.

By 2010, encouraged by San Saba business leaders, the McHenrys began an effort to place Wedding Oak Winery in the historic heart of San Saba, a Texas Hill Country town on the San Saba River, north of San Antonio and southwest of Dallas-Fort Worth. The town asserts it is the “Pecan Capital of the World.” The McHenrys restored a 1926 building near the town center to house a tasting room and a 10,000-case production facility at the intersection of U.S. Highway 190 and State Highway 16 on the northern edge of the Texas Hill Country AVA.

Wedding Oak Winery tasting room in San Saba, Texas

To begin their adventure, the McHenrys hired Penny Adams, an iconic figure and a pioneering woman winemaker in Texas. From the beginning, Penny insisted on using only Texas grapes, a policy that has not changed since the production facility began bottling wine in 2012. Adams moved to the position of director of wine operations in 2019. Seth Urbanek was the winemaker for this vintage. Van Johnson took over the cellar in 2023.

Wedding Oak Winery tasting room in Fredericksburg, Texas

Wedding Oak Winery tasting room in Burnet, Texas

The winery maintains tasting rooms in San Saba, Fredericksburg, and Burnet. The winery’s name comes from the 400-year-old Wedding Oak Tree that stands 2.5 miles northwest of the winery. The website notes: “Centuries ago, the local Native Americans, particularly the Comanche, revered this majestic tree as sacred, gathering for important council meetings beneath its sheltering branches. They believed in the tree’s mystical powers and utilized it as a Matrimonial Altar. By exchanging vows beneath its graceful canopy, couples sought the tree’s magical blessings upon their union.”

Wedding Oak Winery Tioja Texas Red Wine 2022: Medium-deep ruby color; black cherry, black plum, cranberry, blueberry, pepper on the nose and palate.

Off-dry (4.95 g/L RS); moderate tannins; expected acidity for a warm-climate Tempranillo (3.8 pH). Medium body; smooth, supple in the mouth. Blend of Tempranillo and a platoon of other grapes, all from Texas vineyards. Mirasol Vineyards in the Texas Hill Country AVA provided the Tempranillo. Aged 18 months in American oak, 20% new. 13.8% ABV

Pairing—Texas barbecue, slow-cooked brisket, smoked ribs; grilled ribeye, New York strip. Roast leg of lamb with rosemary, braised shank. Beef stew, short ribs. Sausage, pork ribs, pork tenderloin with herbs. Roast turkey or duck with pan gravy. Venison. Tomato-based pastas, wood-fired pizza. Cheese—Aged Manchego, Idiazábal, Mahón, Zamorano, Roncal, aged Gouda, aged Asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano, mature cheddar. Avoid fresh chèvre, triple-crèmes, stinky washed-rind cheeses.

Wedding Oak Winery website

Wedding Oak Winery Tioja Texas Red Wine 2022

Wedding Oak, San Saba, Texas

Wedding Oak vineyard

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Maker’s Table: Meg Maker Award-winning culture writer and fine artist curious about nature, food, wine, and place.

Fermentation Tom Wark’s blog has a 20-year history. Advocacy, criticism, analysis, news, reports, research, and his response to living a life in wine marketing, advocacy, and media relations.

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My boss asked why I only get sick on week days.

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San Felice Chianti Classico Borgo DOCG 2022

This is the next level of San Felice’s Chianti Classico bottlings. Clean, affable tannins, helpful accompanying acidity. Chianti made darker and more interesting with the rare, revived Pugnitello grape. Delicious, palate-pleasing pour. Worth finding. $30-35

According to San Felice, the 2022 season at Borgo was relatively benign, although other Tuscan operations had different experiences—such is wine and grape farming. There were no extreme weather events in San Felice’s report on the vineyard for this wine. There was, however, a general drought in Tuscany. Fortunately, high summer temperatures and drought were mitigated by August rains, encouraging grape ripening. At the same time, some of San Felice’s properties had a rougher adventure that reduced overall yields by 30 percent. There are years wine makers just have to sit back and say: “Nature, take the wheel.”

San Felice winery, aerial view

Grapes were vinified in stainless steel, followed by a year in large Slavonian oak barrels. Barrel size and, likely, multiple uses mean there are no assertive oak elements in the wine, although its smoothness is likely from the gentle, natural oxygenation through the oak. Oak, especially multiple-use oak, does more than add vanilla, smoke, and spice.

“Borgo” is one of four inaugural releases of San Felice’s Vitiarium Collection. With this effort, San Felice fashioned a very food-friendly, easy-in-the-mouth Chianti. It is made only from vineyards closest to San Felice, a hamlet a east of Siena. Sangiovese, of course, is the foundation of any Chianti, but San Felice adds 12% Pugnitello to this blend. Pugnitello (“little fist” in Italian) is an ancient Tuscan red variety. It may have been reduced to only a smattering of vines when San Felice stepped in to resurrect it. The grape delivers intense color, a savory edge, fine-grained tannins, and acidity to a Sangiovese blend. Think of it as a spice to lift and frame the Sangiovese.

San Felice winery, square

San Felice winery at night

San Felice comprises three famous Tuscan estates. Production reaches more than 1.2 million bottles—more than one million of Chianti, 80,000 of Brunello, 40,000 of Rosso di Montalcino, and 55,000 of Bolgheri. There are 20 labels. All San Felice wines are made using estate-owned grapes. The San Felice winery is located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico zone. Its history dates back centuries. The estate is named for an early Christian saint and was owned by the Grisaldi del Taja family beginning in the 18th century. That family was important in the formation of the Chianti Classico consortium, a key group in the history of Italian wine.

Enzo Morganti, a visionary winemaker who spent two decades researching Sangiovese clones, joined the estate in 1967. Morganti focused on high-quality winemaking and restructuring the estate. In 1978, the Italian insurance company RAS acquired it, which in turn was acquired by the German insurance and financial services giant Allianz, which has continued improvements and expanded the operation.

Aerial view of Borgo San Felice

San Felice is a leader in sustainable viticulture, moving toward regenerative and organic agriculture. The winery is energy self-sufficient through solar panels and has reduced the weight of its bottles to minimize carbon emissions. Today, the estate includes a resort, some 465 acres of vineyards and a 6-acre parcel dedicated to experimental viticulture. It is a key winery in the Chianti Classico region.

San Felice Chianti Classico Borgo DOCG 2022: Deep ruby, garnet edge color; cherry, raspberry, plum, cranberry, orange peel, blue flowers on the nose and palate.

Dry (0.5 g/l RS); soft tannins, very good acidity (6.0 g/l). Medium body. The label declares a blend of 88% Sangiovese, 12% Pugnitello. This combination is a step up from basic Chianti Classico wine and worth finding. The Sangiovese is excellent, as you would expect from San Felice, but the Pugnitello adds an enchanting nuance. I am a believer that, in most cases, a blended wine is more amenable and approachable than a pure varietal, and this makes that case for Chianti in my book. 13.5% ABV

Pairing—Tomato-based pasta, spaghetti with meatballs, lasagna, penne arrabbiata. Grilled, roasted red meat; lamb chops with rosemary and garlic. Grilled Italian sausage with peppers and onions, pork ribs, porchetta. Meat lovers’ pizza, sausage pizza. Mushroom risotto. Avoid delicate fish, cream-heavy sauces, anything aggressively sweet. Cheese—Medium-aged Pecorino Toscano; Parmigiano-Reggiano (aged 24-36 months); aged Asiago, Grana Padano; Fontina, young Toma. Avoid assertive blue cheeses and washed-rind stinky cheeses.

San Felice-Agricola website

San Felice website

San Felice Chianti Classico Borgo DOCG 2022

San Felice terroir

San Felice terroir

San Felice terroir

San Felice harvest

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I got asked out by five screaming women today!

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Dugladze Wines & Spirits Otskhanuri Sapere Dry Red, Georgian Wine 2021

Very dark, somewhat rustic wine made from ancient Otskhanuri Sapere grapes thought to be a transitional variety between wild and domesticated vines. This example displays a gamey, savory edge. At the same time, it is smooth with noticeable but amenable tannins and works well with hearty, umami-driven fare. $15-24

Otskhanuri Sapere grapes are indigenous to western Georgia and named for the village of Otskhana. Today they are grown primarily in Imereti. The grape almost disappeared under the unfortunate era of Soviet standardization, but is now being revived. It is a rare teinturier grape where both its flesh and juice are dark red, which accounts for its very dark color. Most wine grape juice is clear or light green-yellow; red wine gets its color from contact with dark skins rather than the color of its juice. Otskhanuri Sapere gets its deep color from both its juice and skins.

Dugladze Wines & Spirits vineyard

The Otskhanuri Sapere grapes are not picked until late October or early November, allowing complete ripening. The wine ferments in French oak barrels, where it is aged for two years. It then spends at least a year in bottle to soften and integrate some more. Grapes come from select vineyards in the Baghdati villages of Imereti, in the central western part of the republic along the middle and upper reaches of the Rioni River. Imereti is Georgia’s most populous region outside Tbilisi.

With archaeological wine sites dating back 8,000 years, Georgia is often called the cradle of wine. The present winery’s story began in 1984 when production started at Georgia’s largest Soviet-era alcohol plant. Dimitri Dugladze took over the operation in 2004 after the USSR’s collapse, fulfilling a lifelong dream of establishing a wine and spirits company. The Dugladze Wine Company LLC was founded in 2004 by Dimitri’s sons when Dimitri handed off the operation. Today, Dugladze is one of the largest makers and exporters of Georgian wine, with the second and third generations of the Dugladze family continuing the tradition and the dream. Temur Gonjilashvili is the chief winemaker.

Dugladze Wines & Spirits chief winemaker Temur Gonjilashvili

Dugladze Wines & Spirits Otskhanuri Sapere Dry Red, Georgian Wine 2021: Deep ruby color; black plum, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, pomegranate, smoke, black peppercorn, toasted oak, gamey-earthy notes on the nose and palate.

Dry; smooth, elegant tannins; balancing acidity. Full body. Dense mouthfeel. While there is a savory, rustic edge to the wine, it is a refined rusticity. Think hands-on vineyard worker dressed in his Sunday go-to-church clothes. It does not easily fit into wine descriptors—dark fruits come close, but there is a little tilt. Close, but not quite it. You really need to find a bottle to experience something whose lineage dates back thousands of years. Dugladze Wines & Spirits exports to more than 30 countries, including the U.S. 12.5% ABV

Pairing—Grilled or braised red meats, ribeye, shashlik/kebab, brisket. Lamb—rack, shoulder, kebab. Barbecue and smoked meats. Pork ribs with savory rub. Roast duck, other rich poultry, game birds. Bean-forward and legume stews, wild mushroom dishes, richly-sauced ragùs. Cheese—Bold, aged, salty cheeses; aged Georgian Sulguni (especially smoked); Guda; aged pecorino; Manchego curado/viejo; aged gouda (2-4 years); rustic aged cheddars (English farmhouse, clothbound). Avoid fresh, very creamy, or bloomy rind cheeses.

Dugladze Wines & Spirits website

Dugladze Wines & Spirits Otskhanuri Sapere Dry Red, Georgian Wine 2021

Dugladze Wines & Spirits harvest

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A photon checks into a hotel.

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History Sauvignon Blanc, Smith-Cernie Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2024

Features fruit rather than sharpness thanks to excellent ripe grapes, partial fermentation in oak, and three months on the lees. This presents another facet of sauv blanc, not the grassy sharpness of New Zealand or the flinty minerality of a Loire effort. $35-40

History is a label of the Stoller Wine Group, an Oregon maker. The grapes for this Sauvignon Blanc come from a vineyard at the Dalles in Oregon from the steep, terraced hillsides, benches, and ridges at a bend overlooking the river across from Washington State portion of the AVA. The Columbia Valley AVA straddles both Washington and Oregon. This is relatively small production—just 240 cases—so it likely hard to find, but worth checking the Stoller website for next vintage availability as History’s Smith-Cernie efforts have been consistent.

History founder and winemaker Melissa Burr (Carolyn Wells-Kramer);

The grapes come from grape vines planted in 1979. The 2024 vintage enjoyed an excellent growing season. A warm summer segued into a cool fall that allowed enough hang time for the grapes to fully mature. They were harvested in the morning to preserve freshness and fruit notes. Fermented in French oak puncheons and stainless steel. After fermentation, the wine rested on the lees for three months to develop smooth richness and complexity. The oak-fermented and stainless steel-fermented batches were blended and allowed to harmonize for a month before bottling.

Stoller’s History brand is made under the direction of Melissa Burr, longtime Stoller winemaker. History is Burr’s brand in partnership with with Bill Stoller. It began in 2013. The History name reflects Stoller’s mother, the local historian for Yamhill County, Oregon. History is a small-batch brand that emphasizes quality over quantity—although Stoller and Burr also have achieved significant success in quality with quantity in their broader portfolio.

Stoller winery and tasting room (Mike Haverkate)

VP of winemaking Melissa Burr has been at Stoller since 2003. Burr says the challenge at Stoller is to control the vigor of the sites in order to concentrate flavors. Unlike most Stoller wines, this is not from estate-grown fruit. The Stoller-Burr concept was to purchase fruit from old-vine growers across Oregon and Washington State who grow to Stoller guidelines. The Smith-Cernie Vineyard is located near the banks of the Columbia River amid tree fruit orchards.

Bill Stoller (Andrea Johnson)

Stoller, who died in 2025 at age 74, was the founder and CEO of The Stoller Group, as well as the president and vice-chairman of very successful employment–service companies. His business success allowed him to pursue his passion for wine in the 1990s with the purchase of his family’s former turkey farm in Dayton, Oregon, which he planted with grapes in 1995 and released the first Stoller vintage in 2001. The winery opened in 2006 as Oregon’s first and only LEED-certified, solar-powered, gravity-flow operation. Its commitment to sustainability earned it recognition as the world’s first LEED GOLD-certified winery. Stoller now is one of the Willamette Valley’s most recognizable producers.

Today, the Stoller Wine Group brands include Stoller Family Estate, Chehalem, Chemistry, Elouan, Stoller Swing, Canned Oregon, and History. The links below lead to more information about their offerings. Stoller is a dependable, easy choice as a go-to producer across their range of bottlings.

History Sauvignon Blanc, Smith-Cernie Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2024: Pale yellow-gold color; pear, key lime, lemon verbena, pineapple, papaya, thyme saline-minerality on the nose and palate

Dry; somewhat mild acidity for a sauv blanc (3.4 pH). Medium body. Notably viscous full mouthfeel with key lime and lemon verbena tartness stepping up on the medium-long finish. This is restrained and savory. It depends on fruit to play the leading role rather than the punchy grassiness of New Zealand or the sharpness of Loire Valley efforts. 12.5% ABV

Pairing—East Coast oysters on the half shell, littleneck clams, Dungeness crab; halibut or hamachi crudo with lime, olive oil, Maldon salt; Pacific Northwest halibut ceviche with cucumber and jalapeño. Delicate white fish, pan-seared sole or petrale, poached sablefish, grilled trout with lemon and herbs. Shrimp risotto, seafood chowder with leeks. Roast chicken with lemon and tarragon, chicken piccata. Linguine with clams, lemon-butter shrimp pasta, spaghetti with olio, chili, and parsley. Herb-forward vegetable dishes, asparagus with hollandaise, spring pea and mint risotto, tomatillo salsa verde on grilled chicken. Avoid red meat, sweet barbecue glazes. Cheese—Fresh goat cheese is classic, Bûcheron, Selles-sur-Cher, Valençay, plain Vermont Creamery log. Sheep’s milk, Ossau-Iraty, Menchego (three months), Brebis Pyrenees. Feta, burrata, fresh mozzarella, young Crescenza or Robiola. Young brie or fresh Camembert (avoid overripe, ammoniated versions).

Stoller Family Estate website

Stoller Wine Group website

History Sauvignon Blanc, Smith-Cernie Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2024

Stoller vineyard from tasting room (Mike Haverkate)

Stoller tasting room and solar panels (Mike Haverkate)

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Maker’s Table: Meg Maker Award-winning culture writer and fine artist curious about nature, food, wine, and place.

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What do you call a rabbit born and raised in a hotel?

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Among the Giants Estate Merlot, Goose Gap AVA, Washington 2022

Rich, well-made pour from the Monson Family, one of the major players in Washington State and Pacific Northwest wines. Dark fruits. Its tannins have mellowed after four years, but this still has a bit more bite than expected from a mid-shelf Merlot. That is offered as praise rather than criticism. Good value at $18-22.

Among the Giants is a Goose Ridge Vineyards label for its estate wines from the Goose Gap AVA. The label is part of Destination Brands, a collection of brands under the ownership and operation of the Monson Family. All Destination Brands wines are certified Sustainable WA Grapes and Salmon Safe. The Goose Ridge Estate property is their flagship estate.

Goose Ridge vineyard

Geographically, Washington State is two states. It is a temperate rainforest west of the Cascade Mountains along the Pacific coast. You think Seattle, you think rain. It is an arid desert in the eastern part, where water comes from the mighty Columbia River, not out of the sky almost every day. Goose Ridge is in the arid desert of southeastern Washington and one of the largest vineyards in the Pacific Northwest.

The winery describes its property as a gently sloped roughly 1,800-acre vineyard that receives less than eight inches of rainfall annually. Vines are planted on their own roots in small lots on slopes for maximum sun. Grapes are farmed for low yields. Vineyard crews carefully select the best blocks for shoot, leaf, and cluster-thinning throughout the growing season to achieve ideal ripeness and flavor at harvest.

Goose Ridge-Destination Brands VP Will Wright, VP, co-president Molly Monson-Stutesman, sales-marketing director COO Taylor Monson

The Monsons emphasize sustainability. Cover crops of wheat and barley are planted in alternate years with natural vegetation. This helps control erosion, choke back weeds and enrich the soil. It also promotes a habitat for beneficial predators such as burrowing owls, songbirds, bats and others, which are further encouraged with nesting houses and natural habitats and corridors throughout the estate.

M.L. Monson brought his family to the Yakima Valley in the early 1900s. His initial focus was on cattle, later apples and cherry orchards. In 1998, M.L.’s son, Arvid, began establishing vineyards with guidance from Walter Clore (considered the father of Washington State wine), which led to the founding of Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery. In the years since, the family has remained true to the vision of M.L. and Arvid, led by Arvid’s three children, Bill, Molly, and Valerie, and Bill’s son, Taylor. Bill Monson, Arvid’s son, notes: “My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one. We believe the same principles apply to our family winery.”

Among the Giants Estate Merlot, Goose Gap AVA, Washington 2022: Deep ruby color; black cherry, red plum, blackberry, strawberry, black tea, chocolate, earth, baking spices on the nose and palate.

Dry (1.69 g/L RS); semi-soft Merlot tannins with hint of bite (it was more grippy when released); moderate acidity (3.79 pH, 5.70 g/L TA). Full body with plush, supple, dense mouthfeel. Acidity helps avoid jamminess. Long, savory finish. Blend of 97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, all estate-grown in Goose Gap AVA. Grapes come from selected, low-yield parts of the property planted north-to-south to maximize sun exposure. Fermented with native yeast. Aged 18 months in the winery’s smoothest, richest French oak barrels. 14.5% ABV

Pairing—Grilled, roasted lamb with rosemary; duck breast with cherry or plum reduction; veal, braised short ribs; smoked brisket with light rub; venison backstrap; roast pork loin with dried-fruit stuffing. Herb-roasted chicken; Thanksgiving turkey with cornbread-mushroom stuffing; chicken-fried quail. Pizza, burgers with caramelized onions. Avoid delicate fish, heavy chili heat. Cheese—Aged gouda, young Comté, Fontina Val d’Aosta, Gruyère, Beemster Classic; Manchego, Ossau-Iraty, lightly smoked Idiazábal. Avoid very fresh/tangy goat cheese, heavily blue-veined cheese, stinky washed-rind cheese (Époisses, Munster).

Goose Ridge Vineyards

Destination Brands website

Among the Giants Estate Merlot, Goose Gap AVA, Washington 2022

Goose Ridge executives

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London cabbie kept throwing “lion powder” out of the window to keep lions away.

Passenger: “But there aren’t any lions in London”

Cabbie: “And a bloody good thing, too, because the powder don’t work.”

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Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Côtes du Rhône 2023

Smooth, juicy GSM, a simple, pleasing dark-fruit pour that works at its lower price point. You can do better in the GSM lane if you go for something priced $20 or more—and Jean-Luc Colombo has many such options—but there are times when good enough is good enough.

This is a nice, if not distinctive, everyday pour or second bottle during an indulgent night. That is an important niche for most of us who do not live off our trust fund allocations. $14-$19

Jean-Luc Colombo makes notable GSM Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines as well as a flagship northern Rhône Syrah—Cornas Les Ruchets. This is one of their entry-level efforts. Nothing wrong with that, especially when all you want to do is twist the Stelvin screwcap and enjoy a wine that does not challenge your palate or pocketbook. It is good for what it aspires to be.

Jean-Luc Colombo family

The winery is a family operation. Jean-Luc Colombo’s mother was a cook from Marseille who gave her son an early taste for enhancing the dining table with culinary skill. Jean-Luc became an outstanding cook, which led him to winemaking. The website notes: “Known worldwide for his wines, Jean-Luc is also renowned for his friendliness, generosity and sense of hospitality. He fiercely defends the identity and richness of the French gastronomic heritage.”

Jean-Luc Colombo vineyard specialist Anne Colombo

Anne Colombo, Jean-Luc’s wife, is the vineyard specialist and champions biodiversity on the estate. The “Les Abeilles” name means “The Bees” in French and bees appear on the label. The family donates a portion of Les Abeilles profits to beekeeping charities.

Jean-Luc Colombo winemaker Laure Colombo

Anne is joined by daughter Laure Colombo, who studied business at the University of Lille and went to work at Disney World for the Epcot Food & Wine Festival, for Wine & Spirits Magazine, and as a sommelier’s assistant at Alain Ducasse Restaurant at the Essex House in NYC. Laure then returned to France, obtained a bachelor degree in viticulture and oenology in Bordeaux (and additionally interned at Château Haut-Brion). She followed that up with a master’s degree in oenology from the University of Montpellier. Laure joined the family estate in 2010. Bottom line: the family is a serious player in the wine world through multiple generations. This is not their showcase bottling; it is a pleasing at the price pour. The full Colombo lineup is worth your exploration.

Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Côtes du Rhône 2023: Deep ruby color; blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, plum, licorice, lavender, pinch of pepper, baking spices on the nose and palate.

Dry; unobtrusive, silky tannins that become somewhat more assertive on the finish; mild acidity. Medium body; supple mouthfeel. Classic southern Rhône GSM blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. This is a solid value made from grapes that did not make it into Jean-Luc’s more premium efforts in a hot, drought-stressed year. That does not mean this is a poor pour. It means you get the B team rather than the A team. But Jean-Luc’s second team is still a very slurpable sipper. 14% ABV

Pairing—Grilled lamb chops, lamb kebabs with rosemary, thyme, Grilled pork chops, pork tenderloin with herbes de Provence, country-style sausage. Seared ahi tuna served rare. Mesquite-grilled skirt steak, smoked brisket, cabrito; skip anything heavily sugared, barbecue sauce will flatten the fruit. Tomato-based pasta, puttanesca, sausage ragù, eggplant Parmesan. Cheese—Oussau-Iraty, young Manchego, Pecorino Toscano. Local Rhône, Tomme de Savoie, Cantal entre-deux, young Leguiole. Aged goat cheeses, semi-dry crottin, Bûcheron rind. Comté 12-month, Gruyère, young Gouda. Avoid Roquefort and other blues, stinky washed-rinds like Époisses.

Jean-Luc Colombo website

Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Côtes du Rhône 2023

Jean-Luc Colombo soil tilling

Jean-Luc Colombo pest control experts

Jean-Luc Colombo vineyard

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I like to think the many of you would vote “The whole package” in the poll , but this is an attempt to discover what part of the package you most enjoy.

Son: “Dad, your hearing is not what it used to be!”

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Domaine Allimant-Laugner Pinot Noir, Vin d’Alsace 2023

Excellent, affordable pure Pinot play from Alsace backed by a rich history of vineyards and winemakers. You typically think white with Alsace, but the region produces cool-climate reds, too.

This presents somewhat more substantial red fruit and mouthfeel than expected from Alsace Pinot Noir while still delivering typicity of France’s northeastern wine region on the border with Germany. Very nice value. $19-22

Members of the Allimant and Laugner families have worked vineyards in the area for centuries. The Allimant side of the family purchased the winery property near Orschwiller, about 35 miles southwest of Strasbourg, in 1816. Captain François-Antoine Allimant made the purchase after fighting in Napoleon’s campaigns. The purchase included a stone building dated 1664. It is the site of the domaine’s headquarters today.

Domaine Allimant-Laugner vineyard and village of Orschwiller

The Allimant and Laugner families had grown vines separately since the 17th century—the Laugners in Dieffenthal, the Allimants in adjacent Saint-Hippolyte. The families merged holdings and traditions through marriage in the mid-20th century when Mariette Allimant married René Laugner. Their eldest son, Hubert Laugner, took over the estate in 1984 and named it Domaine Allimant-Laugner. Hubert’s son, Nicolas, joined the estate in 2013 and now is the winemaking face of the domaine, and the leader of the domaine’s conversion to organic agriculture. Between them, the families have more than 10 generations of winegrowing and winemaking experience in the area.

Domaine Allimant-Laugner winery, historic picture

Domaine Allimant-Laugner winery today

Laugner family, owners of Domaine Allimant-Laugner

The Allimant and Laugner families do not have documentary records of how long they have worked vineyards in the area, but the date 1724 appears on a sandstone pediment above the wooden cellar door, so they assert wine has been made at the site for three centuries, including nearly a century before Allimant’s purchase.

Today, the family grows seven traditional Alsace grape varieties on their nearly 30 acres (12 hectares) of vineyards divided into 40 separate parcels with different orientations, vine ages, and terroirs. South of Orschwiller, between the village and Saint-Hippolyte, the heavy clay-and-limestone soil is particularly well-suited for Pinot Noir. North of the village up to Châtenois, granitic soils are suited for aromatic Riesling and Gewürztraminer. In both locations, vines are planted close together to encourage competition and deeper rooting for better varietal expression.

Domaine Allimant-Laugner winemakers in 1950s

Domaine Allimant-Laugner winemakers today

The 2023 bottling is the first certified-organic vintage made with grapes from their clay-limestone Pinot Noir vineyards. The Laugners say they chose to go organic to emphasize the region’s crisp, bright character. After hand harvest, the grapes underwent one week of maceration. Fermentation followed in stainless steel using native yeasts. The wine then aged 6-12 months in large, old oak barrels. The wine is entering its ideal drinking window through 2029.

Domaine Allimant-Laugner Pinot Noir, Vin d’Alsace 2023: Pale-to-medium ruby color; dark cherry, plum, raspberry, strawberry, fig, sweet spices, pepper, minerality, hints of oak and smoke on the nose and palate.

Dry (0.2 g/L RS); crunchy, pleasant tannins; lively Alsatian acidity (5.7 g/L TA). Light-medium body; silky smooth, slightly dusty mouthfeel with grippy finish where the tannins politely say hello. 13.5% ABV on the bottle label, 12.65% ABV from the winery’s tech sheet.

Pairing—Pork tenderloin, roast pork, lighter sausage; duck breast, duck confit or coq au vin; grilled chicken, turkey; venison, rabbit, game birds. Seared salmon, tuna; trout with mushrooms. Mushroom tart, mushroom risotto, lentils, roasted root vegetables. Excellent for a charcuterie board. Cheese—Comté, Gruyère, Beaufort, Tomme de Savoie, Brie de Meaux, mild Munster. Skip powerful blue cheeses, aggressively pungent washed-rind cheeses.

Domaine Allimant-Laugner website

Domaine Allimant-Laugner Pinot Noir, Vin d’Alsace 2023

Domaine Allimant-Laugner vineyard

Domaine Allimant-Laugner vineyard

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I like to think the many of you would vote “The whole package” in the poll , but this is an attempt to discover what part of the package you most enjoy.

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This column is intended as an introduction to Japanese “rice wine” anchored by Bōken No. 77 Junmai Ginjō Saké.

Bōken No. 77 is worth seeking out. Bōken means “journey” or “adventure.” It shows a pale silver color and floral nose—honeysuckle, lemon aromas; then coconut, pear on the palate. Clean finish. Medium-plus body. It strongly leans toward sweetness, but it has excellent balancing acidity and fruitiness.

While saké can be enjoyed on its own, it also is a versatile food wine, which is what Bōken intended with this label. It is curated and marketed for American tastes, especially for novice saké sippers—and also to be paired with American cuisine: grilled fish, lamb chops, steaks, barbecue, mashed potatoes. 13% ABV. $50-60.

Bōken Saké founder Daisuke Nakajima

Bōken Saké is a portfolio of authentic Japanese sakés made by a very well established and well-regarded maker. One of the breweries involved dates to 1487. Another was founded in 1884. According to Daisuke Nakajima, U.S. importer and founder of Bōken Saké: “We launched Bōken to broaden the appeal of saké beyond traditional Japanese cuisine. We take pride in partnering with family-owned, small-batch brewers, and we’re thrilled to demonstrate that saké is not only flavorful but can also complement a wide variety of dishes from around the globe.”

Bōken No. 77 has an SMV of -18. “SMV” stands for Saké Meter Value; the more negative the number, the sweeter the saké; -18 means it is sweeter than most ginjō sakés. A more common score for junmai ginjō is +3 to -5. This case is balanced by high very high acidity, similar to Sauternes or German Riesling Spätlese. No. 77 refers to a special strain of yeast used to make this saké. The yeast is noted for high malic acid production and fruitiness, key elements in balancing sweetness.

Its rice polishing ratio is 60%, which refers to how much of the original rice grain remains after 40% of the outer layer was removed. The outer layers of rice contain fats, proteins, and minerals that can affect saké’s taste and aroma and cannot be converted into saké. Only the starch in the rice can be made into saké after it is converted by koji enzymes (more about that in a bit). A rice polishing ratio of 60% or less qualifies the saké for ginjō/junmai ginjō classification. The next classification is daiginjō/junmai daiginjō, which means 50% or less of the original grain remains. More polishing tends to result in a cleaner taste.

Saké often is called “rice wine,” but saké involves a complex and unique brewing process that is completely different from grape wine. At its very simplest, you can make grape wine by pouring grape juice into a vessel and sitting back and letting ambient yeast and nature do their thing without human intervention. Not so with saké. Saké production is closer to beer production than grape wine production because saké starts with a grain—not a fruit—and requires converting starch to sugar.

After the rice is polished, it is washed to remove any remaining bran, then soaked in water to achieve the desired moisture content. The rice then is steamed using specialized equipment. The next step involves koji—a special mold (Aspergillus oryzae)—that is a crucial element in saké production. Rice is spread on tables in the koji room. Koji spores are mixed with the rice. The mixture is covered and left for about two days, during which time the koji mold grows, producing enzymes that will later convert rice starch into fermentable sugars.

Bōken brewery partner Hiraizumi, now in its 27th generation

Saké brewing involves a unique, multiple parallel fermentation where saccharification and alcoholic fermentation occur at the same time. A yeast starter (shubo) is prepared by mixing steamed rice, koji, water, and yeast. Bōken ferments for roughly four weeks using the traditional Yamahai method to prepare the mash for fermentation for this saké. The main fermentation (moromi) takes place in large tanks and lasts three or more weeks.

The process begins by combining the shubo with more steamed rice, koji, and water in three stages over the next four days. The mash is mixed daily and fermented at low temperature. Bōken ferments this at 60º F; other methods run at 45º-55º F. During fermentation, the alcohol content can increase to 18-20% ABV, but makers often add water at bottling to reduce it. Saké typically has an ABV similar to or slightly higher than grape wine. A standard saké is 13-16% ABV. Japanese law requires saké to be less than 22% ABV.

After fermentation, the mash is pressed to separate the liquid saké from remaining solids. Some styles, like nigori saké, are pressed or strained more coarsely so fine particles of rice remain suspended. This retains a cloudy appearance and achieves a fuller mouthfeel. Most saké, including this one, is then pasteurized to kill bacteria and deactivate enzymes that could affect flavor and color. After pasteurization, most saké is aged for several months before bottling.

Next comes enjoying the finished product. One way to serve saké puts an emphasis on generosity or hospitality. The “mokkiri” style of service involves pouring saké into a small glass that is inside a wooden box called a “masu” (once a measuring device for rice). The saké is deliberately over-poured so some of the saké flows over the glass rim and into the masu. The term mokkiri means “filling full or more to the rim.” This style of serving represents the Japanese concept of “omotenashi” (hospitality). The intention is to reflect the server’s generosity and often is associated with restaurant or izakaya service (similar to a bartender pouring a pint so the beer spills a bit, except with saké you get to enjoy the over-pour out of the masu rather than wiping it up with a bar towel). More formal saké service uses lacquerware, porcelain cups, or ceremonial vessels.

Saké set with masu box

Serving saké can be less formal, especially today as brewers strive to reach international drinkers. White wine glasses are often used because they present saké aromas, and most households are likely to have them on their bar shelves. There are myriad types of saké cups and glasses, many resembling small bowls with wide rims or cups without handles. Like grape wine glasses, the various shapes and sizes are paired with different styles of saké. No one size fits all, but a white wine glass likely will suit your needs until you get heavily into saké appreciation.

People often think of saké as a drink served warm. While saké can be served warm, the temperature is a personal decision. Saké can be served warm, room temperature, or chilled. Today, many sakés are served chilled (35-40º F) or at room temperature (60-70º F). Bōken Saké recommends you serve No. 77 either warm or cold—cold for crispness, warm by heating it somewhere between 90º and 110º F to, in Bōken’s language, “warm the bones.” In the beginning of your saké adventure, everything will be fine if you sip saké out of the white wine glass already in your cupboard and experiment on temperature.

As the rollout of Bōken Saké only began in fall 2024, you may not find it on your neighborhood store’s shelves. If you find it on a restaurant list, which was the company’s initial target, it is well worth a try. Saké in general is worth a place on your table. In any event, I hope this excursion into “rice wine” gives you a simplified, broad picture of what is going on with rice’s contribution in the wine world.

Bōken website

Bōken No. 77 Junmai Ginjō Saké

Last round

London cabbie kept throwing “lion powder” out of the window to keep lions away.

Passenger: “But there aren’t any lions in London”

Cabbie: “And a bloody good thing, too, because the powder don’t work.”

Wine time. It gets funnier after your third shot of saké.

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Want to know how to keep someone in suspense?

…

Wine time.

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Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2022

Leans toward elegance and approachability rather than power while still possessing the allure of Napa fruit. Medium-full body. Moderated tannins, acidity, alcohol, power. A Napa cab on its best behavior so as not to offend anyone.

Note: some people favor Napa cabs that can offend casual wine drinkers. A good buy at its lower end price. You can do better for the money at its higher end price. $45–65

Stags’ Leap Winery Manor House

Stags’ Leap is one of California’s oldest wineries. Horace Chase partnered with his uncle, W.W. Thompson, to found the estate on land where grapes had been planted in 1872 by T.L. Grigsby. The manor house was built in 1890. The first vintage was produced in 1893. The Chase family acquired the Stags Leap name from a Wappo legend about a stag leaping to escape hunters.

The mountains behind the property on the eastern side are known as the “Stags Leap Palisades.” While wine production was interrupted for extended periods—especially during Prohibition—wine grapes have been grown on the property continuously since its founding some 150 years ago.

Stags’ Leap Winery alley

After 64 years of non-wine making (while still growing wine grapes for others), Carl Doumani resumed wine production at Stags’ Leap in 1972. Christophe Paubert joined Stags’ Leap as head winemaker in 2009. He hailed from Bordeaux and worked at the world-famous Château d’Yquem before joining Stags’ Leap. The 2022 effort was his handoff vintage. Paubert retired after the 2022 vintage, replaced by Ludovic (Ludo) Dervin, who worked with Paubert on this bottling.

After sales and acquisitions beginning in 1996, Stags’ Leap is part of Treasury Wine Estates today. Treasury is a major international player, making wine in 12 countries and selling more than 35 million cases a year.

Wine harvest at Stags’ Leap

Cabs from the Stags Leap District can be so powerful and rich that they are one-dimensional—massive red fruits that are like the loudest extrovert at a party. Entertaining, but too intense for extended enjoyment. Like a talented bronco buster, Paubert demonstrates his skill at coaxing wines into nuances of civility while preserving spirit and harnessing power. His farewell effort is an example. It is an easy-to-enjoy pour, not something that demands pairing with massively marbled beef to appreciate.

Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2022: Deep ruby color; raspberry, black cherry, redcurrant, blackberry, blueberry, mint, sage, oak spice, tobacco, vanilla on the nose and palate. Dry; well-behaved tannins and balancing acidity. Medium-full body; smooth, accommodating mouthfeel. Fresh, restrained expression of Napa cab. Elegance instead of power. Blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot, 3% Malbec, 2% Petite Sirah, 1% Tannat from growers in southern, cooler locations in the valley floor. Aged 19 months in 25% new French oak barrels with a mix of neutral French and American oak. 14.1% ABV

Pairing—Medium-intensity beef, filet mignon, hanger steak, bistro-style steak frites. Herb-crusted rack of lamb, lamb chops with rosemary and garlic. Pork tenderloin with berry reduction. Duck breast with cherry or plum sauce. Braised short ribs with tomatoes, richer pasta ragùs, mushroom-heavy dishes. Cheese—Aged cheddar, aged Gouda, Comté, Parmigiano-Reggiano; firm, nutty cheeses, Manchego curado; milder blue cheeses.

Stags’ Leap website

Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2022

Stags’ Leap winemaker Christophe Paubert

Stags’ Leap barrel cave

Stags’ Leap vineyard

Stags’ Leap Winery Manor House Living Room

Stags’ Leap Manor House porch

Stags’ Leap Winery Historic Exterior

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My boss asked if I wanted to sign up for the company’s 401K.

I told him there was no way in the world I could run that far.

Wine time.

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Casadei Sogno Mediterraneo Blend Rosso, Toscana IGT 2022

Tuscan version of a Southern Rhône GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre), in this case dominated by Syrah. Serious dark fruit flavors. Not an accommodating easy-drinker, best deployed alongside hearty food after time in air. $20-28

Blend is 85% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre from certified organic and Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards. Fermentation and initial aging in concrete vats and terracotta amphorae, followed by 14 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. This is a Super Tuscan made using Southern Rhône varieties rather than Bordeaux grapes. Syrah’s richness and power are only slightly tamed by Grenache’s savory and herbal qualities and Mourvèdre’s (Monastrell) darkness and body. If you are not into powerful, assertive red wines, this is not for you. If those characteristics are in your gastronomic wheelhouse, especially paired with an emphatic slab of beef, pull cork on this big boy.

Casadei vineyard

The power here is forceful fruit, not puckering tannins or intricate complexity. This is especially true in the amazingly long finish; after 15 seconds you begin to question if you really swallowed the whole sip. Tannic structure is not a signature. Pushy Syrah abetted by the smoky, gamey boldness of Mourvèdre and the herbal nudge of Grenache is the point of this wine. While it is a GSM, the “S” is the burly bully in this pour; G and M play supporting-but-noticeable roles. This has much more Syrah than previous vintages by this maker.

Casadei principals Stefano Casadei, Fred Cline and their wives

The wine is a collaboration between Italian winemaker Stefano Casadei and American winemaker Fred Cline. They hit it off after meeting and realized a shared dream of growing international grapes in Italy while respecting the environment. Their place: slopes leading to the Metalliferous Hills west of Siena and less than a dozen miles from the sea. Their joint effort would embrace safeguarding nature, protecting the ecosystem, and using an approach called “BioIntegrale” in Italy, which is similar to biodynamic viticulture elsewhere.

Casadei horse working vineyard

Just as they are all-in on muscular Syrah, they are all-in on holistic winemaking. Animals work the vineyards. Horses pull plows guided by humans, geese and sheep keep the ground neat. No synthetic chemicals. Replenishment of biological matter. Natural waste disposal. Nourish the soil rather than the vines. The comprehensive approach also includes the community, according to their website, by employing local labor and neighborhood enterprises and making use of domestic resources to redistribute wealth and support local culture.

Casadei Sogno Mediterraneo Blend Rosso, Toscana IGT 2022: Deep ruby color; blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, black plum, sweet spice, black pepper, dark chocolate, tobacco, Mediterranean herbs, balsamic on the nose and palate. 14% ABV

Dry; well-integrated tannins; medium-plus acidity. Medium-plus body. Serious wine for a serious wine drinker. Benefits from air, and likely just entering its drinking window after four years. Improves on the second day after time and air sanded its fiercest elements.

Pairing—Robust fare; wild game, meat stews, grilled or roast lamb with rosemary/thyme; duck, pigeon, guinea fowl; beef and pork stews, braised short ribs, osso buco with tomato base; pasta with ragù (wild boar, sausage, beef). Cheese—Aged Tuscan Pecorino or Pecorino Romano; Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano; aged Cheddar, Manchego, aged Gouda. Avoid mild cheeses, chèvre, ricotta, fresh mozzarella.

Casadei website

Casadei Sogno Mediterraneo Blend Rosso, Toscana IGT 2022

Casadei vineyard

Casadei winery

Casadei barrel aging

Casadei principals at tasting area

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I prefer the British spelling for “diarrhea.”

“Diarrhoea” looks like the word lost control of its vowels.

Wine time.

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Clos Mogador Nelin White Priorat DOQ, Catalunya, Spain 2022

Balanced, impressive, age-worthy white with a parade of delicious fruit and enchanting aromatics. This is a serious white. Creamy, complex, harmonious. $75-85

Blend of Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo, plus a field blend of smaller local varieties sourced from four small estate organic vineyards. Full clusters pressed, juice fermented in 1,200-liter (317 gallons) French oak foudres using native yeasts. Fermentation lasts three-to-nine months. Full malolactic conversion in barrel. Aged 12 months in oak, followed by six-to-eight months in stainless steel. Very sophisticated, meticulous regimen.

Clos Mogador winery and vineyard

This wine has depth. So does its backstory. Elisabeth Barbier, great-aunt of the owners, described her winemaking family in her imaginative book, “The People of Mogador” (Les Gens de Mogador). Their story begins in the 19th century in France. When phylloxera ravaged French vines, the family of French winemakers sourced grapes from Spain. During German occupation of France in World War II, the family turned to their ties in Spain.

Clos Mogador family-Christian Barbier Meyer, Anderson Barbier Meyer, René Barbier Ferrer, Isabelle Meyer, Rene Barbier Meyer

In the 1970s, the Barbiers discovered available vineyards in Priorat, one of the world’s older and more storied wine-growing regions, two hours southwest of Barcelona. The region takes its name from the 12th-century “Priory” at Scala Dei—the first Carthusian monastery built on the Iberian Peninsula. The vineyards can be traced back to Roman times. Clos Mogador is an amphitheater of crumbling slate (licorella), a defining feature in Priorat and its wines. Vines are surrounded by mountains up to 3,900 feet high. The Siurana River flows through the valley below the vineyards. Priorat is only one of two DOCa/DOQ regions in Spain; Rioja is the other. The designation is Spain’s top quality tier.

Clos Mogador vineyard

“Clos” means “enclosure” or “walled vineyard” in French. Here, it means the four estate vineyards of the Barbier-Meyer family, makers of this wine, applying their French perspective. Following in family tradition, René Barbier Ferrer founded the winery with his wife, Isabelle Meyer, in 1979. Their children run the winery today. René Barbier Meyer is the winemaker, aided by his brothers, Christian Barbier Meyer and Anderson Barbier Meyer.

Clos Mogador Nelin White Priorat DOQ, Catalunya, Spain 2022: Deep gold color; candied citrus, white peach, grapefruit, lemon, yellow apple, melon, quince, honeycomb, vanilla, spice, orange blossom, chamomile, mint, saline-minerality on the nose and palate.

Dry; moderate acidity. Medium-plus body; rich, generous mouthfeel. Excellent aromatics. Impressive complexity. Long finish filled with lingering, distinct flavors. This is a plush, hedonistic wine with layers of flavors and the capacity to improve with age. Light, crisp young whites are appealing in their own way. This is not that. This is a much more substantial effort, with a price associated with such attributes. Think white Burgundy with Priorat’s slate-driven minerality and Mediterranean ripeness. Prepare to be wowed. 14% ABV

Pairing—Rich seafood, monkfish with saffron, grilled turbot, lobster with herb butter, wild sea bream ceviche, shellfish in general. Roast chicken with lemon and thyme, rabbit with olives, pork loin with fennel. Creamy risottos with mushrooms or saffron, roasted root vegetables. Cheese—Aged Manchego or Zamorano; earthy goat cheese, Crottin de Chavignol; aged Comté, Gruyère; triple-cream brie or Brillat-Savarin. Avoid very pungent blues or ash-rind goat cheeses.

Clos Mogador website

Clos Mogador Nelin White Priorat DOQ, Catalunya, Spain 2022

Clos Mogador vineyard

Clos Mogador vineyard

Clos Mogador barrel aging

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Dave McIntyre’s WineLine Longtime Washington Post wine columnist now on Substack. Entertaining, informative.

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Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.

Maker’s Table: Meg Maker Award-winning culture writer and fine artist curious about nature, food, wine, and place.

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What do you do when you open one door and then it shuts?

You open it again. That is how doors work.

Wine time.

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I can hear fruit talking.

“What’s this orange saying?”

I don’t know. It’s speaking Mandarin.

Wine time.

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I lost my job as a masseuse today.

My boss said I just rubbed people the wrong way.

Wine time.

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Never argue with stupid people.

They will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.

Wine time.

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