While I almost always mix vintage and consignment with newness, below are all2 “new.” I’ve recently gotten into the world of Vinted, and I’m a huge fan of The RealReal, but sometimes pieces fresh out of the box are what’s needed to lift the wardrobe. Something vintage, something new, something (probably) not borrowed, something blue…

Below, what I have my eyes on and a roundup of my outfits from the first week back in the office.

COS is hitting. I’ve felt the need to add a baseball tee to my wardrobe and am excited to find an option for under $50; I think it’s the next retro style to come back in a big way. This black and cobalt striped shirt feels fresh, and would look great layered with another striped shirt underneath. The blue is very of-the-moment. These pleated balloon pants look polished and comfortable and seem to be made of a great transitional cotton fabric. The length feels fresh. Funnel necks are undeniably elevated and create a sculptural shape while letting the neck breathe (unlike their turtleneck cousins). With a hair tuck? Chef’s kiss. COS has nailed the casual barrel pant silhouette, but their cozy options are usually made of wool, which I find itchy and too hot. This new set is 100% cotton: perfect for feeling put together while traveling or lounging (joggers & sweatshirt). A black trench coat (with a great funnel neck) feels very Celine and/or Christine Centenera-coded. Lastly, this perfect sheer black midi skirt isn’t on the site yet, but is styled throughout the new arrivals page. I’ll be watching for it to land like a hawk.

I’m working on building my arsenal of statement skirts and can’t stop thinking about these four. I’d absolutely wear any of these options to work, plus they’re great for going out or running around on the weekend. Realistically, my 5% budget is going toward this stunner of a skirt from Tory Burch. I love the pattern mixing, subtle shine, and 2000s-inspired hemline. Rachel Tashjian Wise wore a gold version of this bouncy pleated skirt with a white tee and it’s become my Roman Empire. I firmly believe animal print is a neutral, and think the fawn is fun and a little tongue-in-cheek for fall. This shiny Gucci number is giving art deco vibes and would look incredible with a faded vintage crewneck sweatshirt, colorful socks, and a high-vamp heel or loafer: the school uniform, reinvented. (Sweatshirt3, necklace, notebook, socks, pumps4)

My style is all over the place and is completely dependent on the day’s mood, but these pieces are outfit makers and would set the tone for any look. Frye Campus boots have been around for literal decades and I’ve never had a pair, but recently I’ve been feeling like I have an Americana boot-sized hole in my closet that these would fill. I keep imaging them with my light blue silk drop-waist day dress from the 1920s: perfect tension dressing. Speaking of America, support NPR! I just bought this baseball tee that made the rounds on Substack months ago; I wanted to make sure I wasn’t being influenced by what’s “trendy” and that I’d actually wear it. Wait Wait… Don’t Tell Me! and Up First are my regular NPR podcasts, thanks for asking. This Sézane top screams modern antiquarian, a term I coined to describe my favorite personal style aesthetic that comes out swinging in the colder seasons. Lastly, we’ve already agreed animal print is a neutral, and I’ve been looking for the perfect printed day-to-night bag for months. This small brand out of Lebanon has some really interesting shapes and color combinations in their assortment.

Shoes are my go-to to for any sort of refresh. I just scored these Larroudé jazz-style flats on The RealReal, and as of this week they’re 50% off on their site! I’m looking forward to dipping my (literal) toes into the jazz flat trend. Jamie Haller can basically do no wrong, and unfortunately I waffled for half a second and these incredible electric blue pumps sold out in my size. I love a high vamp, but the angled lines on these feels new and interesting. Building on the back-to-work/school vibes of fall, Aeyde’s tasseled heels harken back to the Mad Men days in a 2026 silhouette (I’m sure a vintage pair could be found on eBay). Speaking of my love of high vamps, COS styled the aforementioned cotton barrel-leg set with these satin ballet flats, which really do remind me of classic split-sole ballet shoes (I think it’s the rounded square toe). These would transition easily into holiday.

Mondays at the office are usually pretty quiet. Thanks to putting out the bat signal during Toteme’s sale, I now have the perfect black compact knit top that’s become a staple. I wore it with a necklace I made, the Juju Vera Petra pendant necklace, off-white Levi’s 501 90s, a suede jacket from Zara, the most comfortable loafers ever, the only socks worth owning in pesto green, and a pony hair Rachel Comey tote. Sunglasses are Moscot.

I woke up feeling extra on Tuesday and put together an outfit to match: vintage Levi’s 501s, vintage reversible silk jacket my mom got in Hong Kong decades ago, vintage CZ necklace, the best graphic tee from Brut Archives, orange nylon Ganni heeled sandals from their outlet in Copenhagen, and a floofy ostrich brooch I made myself. Sunglasses are from Kiliwatch in Paris (they have the best selection for under €30!).

Wednesday was all about the color story of the moment: plum, classic red and a shade of blue between French blue and cobalt. When I first saw this red jacket in development at work, I knew I had to have it, and stalked Levi.com until it went live a year later. Unfortunately it’s sold out, but Roucha has an even better version. High funnel necks abound! The blue shirt was my late dad’s, culottes are from COS (sold out, similar from Uniqlo), I wore the same socks as Monday but in red and paired them with black boat shoes. I can’t stress this enough: colorful socks are the easiest way to play into a color trend!

A few weeks ago I bought these vintage men’s swim trunks for $6 and wanted to wear them ASAP. I cut out the lining on Thursday morning, layered them with a thrifted Brooks Brothers shirt, a Levi’s sweatshirt (only available in grey, buy 1 size up) and trench (on sale!), the socks in cobalt, and my trusty Aeyde mint heels (here in dusty blue, this season’s color). A beaded blue necklace I made and a vintage pre-Colombian style frog brooch from The Met museum store, found on eBay, tied it all together.

Friday was a work from home day (thank god) but it was incredibly busy and I only had 10ish minutes to throw together an outfit for Shabbat service. The vibe was “socially acceptable sweatpants” because I couldn’t bother with any level of discomfort. I repeated the Toteme knit top and Aeyde heels with old plisse pull-on wide leg pants from COS, Susana Vega earrings and ear cuff, and an incredible vintage brooch from . Not shown: grey cashmere socks from J. Crew because it’s always cold in San Francisco!

Until next time…

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I’ve been noodling on this topic for months, and have never had so many notes on my Notes app about one idea. This means it’s gotten under my skin, and I’m not sure if that’s a positive or negative. I think the bottom line is that anything with “cool girl” as a reference insinuates that you are not, and that exclusionary feeling brings me back to middle school like nothing else.

Caroline of outlined why these posts are purely “content dressed as consumption” in her article on the topic, going further to explain how to find your own personal style instead of mimicking someone else’s. I agree wholeheartedly with her thoughts. And, my mind keeps coming back to boring-ass images I see plastered all over the place of women wearing head-to-toe “quiet luxury” (that moniker is dead, right?) while holding a latte and crossing the street, the photo edited so the brightness is turned down to make it look a little moody. We all know what I’m talking about.

Color, enthusiasm, heck, joy is coming back into clothing in a way that’s been absent the last 5+ years due to the Row-ification of everything. I know I’m speaking in generalizations, but go with me here. When “quiet luxury” is pushed to the wayside and full maximalism takes over, what then determines if blasé minimalism is cool/chic or just taste slop? Luckily I think true, genuine maximalist style is immune to the formulaic dressing we’ve come accustomed to, hopefully keeping it from the same taste slop doom. And I’m biased: to me, most maximalist dressers are “cool” women.

Ultimately, it’s the wearer that determines the “cool” factor, which oftentimes can’t be articulated through a screen. Truly cool, interesting, and creative people can’t hide this even if they tried, their personal style seeping out through their pores. Even if they’re just wearing sweats, the sweatshirt is probably their dad’s from the 80s, the t-shirt thrifted, the sweatpants are from Uniqlo but are styled so you think they’re from a boutique in Japan. But, most importantly, these people are kind, smart, and interesting. Working in the fashion industry, I’ve been shocked by the gregariousness of attendees at Paris Fashion Week and brand events in NYC; the excitement of these undeniably “cool” people talking together about something they love is palpable. We’re all just nerds for fashion, at the end of the day. (Of course, there are always some bad eggs. There was one woman with her gorgeous Birkin and suede The Row flats that had a constant sour look on her face and wasn’t particularly warm when I asked if I could perch at the other end of the couch she was occupying. But let me tell you, the designer I met on a whim in Mexico City accepted me with open arms, immediately inviting me to a shoot that afternoon with a Vogue model friend of hers. Former, uncool. Latter, cool.)

I’m veering a little off track, but am also trying to paint a picture that I think is lost in the allure of being a “cool girl,” and to me, the coolest of gals do something creative and are inclusive of others; of course my closest reference is the fashion industry. The underlying trope of the “cool girl” is that you cannot have access to her and the elusiveness is, actually, the secret sauce to making her “cool.” This is why those clickbait articles are working: the audience is assumed to be void of any taste of their own, essentially using a paint-by-numbers system to hack their way into “coolness.”

I completely disagree with this. Perfectionism and copy-paste style is a dangerous combination, one that leaves me so bored I’m ready for a 2pm nap. Never have I ever seen a coiffed woman in a Zimmerman dress and thought, “wOw she’s SoOo iNtriguing.” Wearing what you think you “should” wear or what someone tells you to is forfeiting your rights to creativity, something a “cool girl” would never do. Beyond true, genuine personal style, one must have edge, and edge cannot be bought. Edge also shows up in the form of vulnerabilities and imperfections, which of course, is what makes people interesting IRL.

Unfortch, Substack seems to be ground zero for “cool girl” content, therefore subtly insinuating to readers that if you don’t know these brands or places, don’t look like this, dress like this, etc., you are therefore not cool. I’d argue the opposite: the minute the masses are onto something, I’m usually over it (except my Juju Vera Petra necklace, bury me in it). Don’t get me wrong, I’m not one for gatekeeping, but the simple act of blasting what all these supposedly “cool” women are doing/wearing/eating/whatever is antithetical to uniqueness and therefore, IMO, being cool in the first place. A real ouroboros, if you will.

“Kinda chic” may be replacing cool girl content, but let’s just replace it all, shall we? Call it as we see it: instead of “what the cool girls are wearing to work out” it actually should be, “throw out your boring-ass black leggings and wear something different to sweat in until your face looks like a tomato.” I’d read that, WBU?

Ultimately, and this might be too harsh, but not everyone is a cool/chic girl/woman, and that’s what makes those who are so intriguing. This is ok! We need our north stars, those who inspire. Again, if everyone dressed as these articles suggest, no would be cool, anyway. And honestly, as cheesy as this sounds, the most interesting women are those who have hobbies, are kind, are a tad weird, have depth to them and again, a little bit of an edge. I’ll take that over watered-down style and listicles any day.

Women who give me endless inspiration outside of the milk toast crap sourced from Pinterest are (but not limited to):

Read up on them here:

Spread the Jelly

What is Rachel Tashjian wearing in the second trimester?

Being pregnant is not often described as an “opulent” experience. And yet Rachel Tashjian, the brilliant fashion CNN Senior Style Reporter and brains behind the invite-only, hotly-coveted, delectably discerning newsletter Opulent Tips (as well as a recently launched newsletter…

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4 months ago · 80 likes · 10 comments · Spread the Jelly and Rachel Seville Tashjian

The Essential Vault by Marianne Theodorsen

The vintage pieces I am shopping for right now...

I´m writing from the chaotic trenches of my new full time job where I´m stacked between moving boxes and trying to store my wardrobe wherever there´s room in our house. During Easter Mother Nature decided t…

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4 months ago · 13 likes · 6 comments · Marianne Theodorsen

La Deeply Shallow by Laura Kirk De Valencia

4 color outfits and a couple of neutrals.

After a summer of mostly wearing neutrals, I have been challenging myself to wear color and print simply as an arbitrary creative exercise which has made me arrive at three points—i. that while color and print do not equal ✨happy✨ (nothing makes me happier that an Agnes Martin painting), the effort to achieve a satisfactory result within self-imposed bo…

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23 days ago · 83 likes · 8 comments · Laura Kirk De Valencia

The Dressing Room

What's on my mind, in my inspo folder, and on my wishlist

This is a bit of a departure from my usual posts. I’ve been doing a lot of research, browsing, and adventuring. I’ve been reading more and scrolling less and looking at art and watching old films and going down rabbit holes. As I’ve said in the past, personal style is not just clothing. It’s the media you consume and create and engage with. It’s the boo…

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3 months ago · 31 likes · 8 comments · Kendall Flavin

Lastly, follow , who posts “weird girls with great taste” as a palate cleanser for the feed. A personal fave is Scary Spice, who I absolutely adored as a 9-year old.

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Mexico City is magical and absolutely worth the hype. It’s a sprawling metropolitan city but neighborhoods feel quaint and special, boasting tree lined residential streets and boulevards and tranquil small parks. Colonial-era buildings blend seamlessly with modern architecture, and huge succulents and plants mix with leafy branches. The people are incredibly friendly, welcoming, and creative, and like any major city, multifaceted. I’ve been to Mexico City three times and have been all around, but like most, I love the neighborhoods of Condesa, Roma Norte/Roma Sur, and Hipódromo. Polanco is well-known but reminds me of stale Beverly Hills: not for me. If you’re adventurous, into fashion and textiles, and speak Spanish, the fabric/garment district near the Zócalo is unbelievably fun.

One of the first questions I’m always asked about Mexico City is, “Is it safe?” The answer is unequivocally yes, and also, don’t be stupid. The first time I visited, I was by myself for four days before my sister and best friend met up with me for another four. At no point did I feel unsafe, and at no point did I wander onto an unlit street at midnight looking clueless. In my experiences, it’s as safe as any other city. Also, I’ve heard pickpocketing is prevalent on the subway, so I’ve never taken it.

Like my other guides, I’ll take you through a few practical points and my recommendations on where to stay, eat, shop, and what to do. This is just scratching the surface and my most recent trip was November 2023, so I know new places have popped up, but everything I’m recommending is current. I’m writing this as a gringa with a lot of adoration for the city, sharing my experiences from visiting.

Mexico City is for everyone: it’s a fashion city, a foodie destination, a major cultural hub, an art lover’s dream and a rich historical landscape. So, ¡andale pues!

Speaking Spanish

Like most major cities, many people speak English in CDMX, but probably not to the length you’d expect. At least half the time I’m communicating in my butchered version of Spanish with a fair amount of gesticulating to try to communicate. If you don’t know a lick of it, you’ll feel it, so I recommend downloading Google Translate, at the minimum, and brushing up on the language as much as you can. Don’t let this deter you from visiting if you don’t speak Spanish, but be prepared!
Note that everyone uses WhatsApp to communicate, including restaurants to confirm reservations

Getting Around

Uber or walk everywhere. Do not take the pink and white city cabs, only because the odds of you looking like a tourist are high and you’re putting yourself in a situation to be taken on an extra circuitous route or price gouged. If you’re with a local, go for it. Ubers are fast, safe, and cheap, and I’ve never had any issues. Traffic in Mexico City, however, is terrible. If you’re driving somewhere far away, add 20 minutes to whatever Google Maps gives you as an estimate; close by, an extra five. I once missed an appointment to visit a local couturier at his studio because I was stuck in traffic for over 45 minutes. The neighborhoods I mentioned are very walkable, however, they are not accessible. Many sidewalks are cracked with huge tree roots trying to escape, some with drops over a foot high to the next step.

Uber to and from the airport: it’s very easy. When you walk out of baggage claim, turn left, walk a ways down to Door 7, and get your car there.
A note on the airport: baggage claim can be very hit or miss but I’ve only had terrible experiences (waiting over an hour for my bag). Carry on if you can.

Cash

Mexico City is modern and has Apple Pay/credit cards as an option at many places, but half of the fun of CDMX is a food stand or vendor on the street, for which you’ll absolutely need cash. You can get pesos at the airport: there’s a currency exchange at baggage claim (you have to walk by it even if you don’t check a bag) and can use your debit card to get out pesos (no need to bring US dollars to physically exchange). I’m not sure if it’s the best exchange rate you’ll get, but I’ve always done it. You can also use your debit card at a local ATM to get pesos, but make sure it’s attached to an actual bank and not freestanding on the street.

If you do any touring with a guide, make sure you tip them in pesos. If you do go fabric shopping, you’ll want to have cash. I probably take out too much, but I typically bring about $200 USD with me to exchange (more if I know I’ll be buying fabric). The leftovers will always be used on my next trip!

Water, Plumbing, and Your Gringa Stomach

Don’t drink or use the tap water in Mexico City: you’re just asking for it. Regardless of where I’m staying (hotel, Airbnb) I always go to an OXXO (a convenience store chain like a 7-11 that’s on every corner) and get copious amounts of bottled water. Use this for drinking and brushing your teeth. Even if where you’re staying provides you with filtered water (they will, and that’s safe to drink) I always end up needing more. Ice in restaurants is totally fine, they also use filtered water.

The pluming in CDMX is extremely old, which is one of the reasons why the water isn’t considered safe to drink. In restrooms you’ll often see trash cans with lids next to the toilet. This isn’t for feminine products, but toilet paper: most of the pipes cannot handle toilet paper and flushing it will cause major issues. This weirded me out the first time but I got used to it quickly. Don’t be the asshole that clogs the pipes: use the trashcans!

On the note of water and the restroom… always bring Pepto Bismol pills and Imodium with you, because you never know how your stomach will react. There are pharmacies everywhere but in the moment, the last thing you want to do is explain your gastric issues in Spanish to the pharmacist. I’ve personally never had anything happen to me, but my best friend got a stomach virus from a sidewalk smoothie stand and was sick for almost a month.

I’ve only stayed in Roma Norte and Condesa and have loved both areas: filled with trees, lots of charm, quiet but with shops and restaurants nearby. Choosing an Airbnb vs. a hotel is up to preference in Mexico City; every Airbnb I stayed in had a secure gate and cameras, and one had a guard. Some of the most enticing Airbnb listings are located in Centro, but I wouldn’t recommend staying in that area, as it’s more commercial and doesn’t seem as safe. I can recommend these spots:

Hotel Villa Condesa is a small hotel that’s more akin to a bed and breakfast, but it doesn’t have a restaurant or kitchen. I think it was an old mansion converted into individual rooms. It’s extremely quiet and has all the essentials, with a friendly staff. No frills, but I’d stay again, especially in the room I had with a peaceful balcony.

Brick Hotel is in Roma Norte and right next to Rosetta, a must-go for dinner. The location is truly perfect. However, I think it may have formerly been a bank because a block of interior rooms don’t have windows. Make sure you ask for a room with windows!

Both of these Airbnbs are great options if you’re traveling with a small group: I stayed here with two friends and here with two coworkers. The first has a guard at the door, the second does not, but both were safe, quiet, and a great location for exploring the neighborhood.

I haven’t yet stayed at Casa Tenue in Roma Norte, but the open-air rooms and private outdoor bathtubs look like a dream.

Mexico City is a foodie paradise, even if you’re not a huge fan of Mexican (but are you crazy, then?). I say this to reiterate that it’s truly a city for everyone and is extremely multifaceted. While I occasionally love fine dining, I prefer to go middle-of-the-road to hole-in-the-wall and taco stand. Almost every restaurant will require a reservation, but if you find yourself without one, you can always head to Taquería Álvaro Obregon for an al pastor taco (open until 4am).

If you ask anyone for a food rec for Mexico City, they’re bound to tell you to go Restaurante Rosetta and their bakery, Panadería Rosetta. Rosetta is Italian-Mexican fusion and every dish I had there on my three trips was incredible. Order the bread and butter appetizer (trust me) and the corn tamal if it’s in season.

Panadería Rosetta and Café Nin are both by the Rosetta group and have the most incredible pastries. You can’t go wrong, but the chocolate donut with the cream center is to die. If you go to la Panadería, don’t be intimidated by the line: order everything to-go and sit in the parklet with the fountain nearby. Café Nin is easier for dine-in and has great breakfast options.

Maximo is, hands down, an incredible dinner spot. It’s more expensive (in-line with San Francisco pricing) but it’s delicious and worth the price. It’s a vibe and beautiful people eat here.

Huset nailed the garden atmosphere, with tables on gravel and string lights overhead. It’s sneakily covered, though, so if it rains, it’s not a problem. It’s hard to describe what kind of food it is; I’d say Mexican/Italian/French fusion. Whatever it is, it’s great.

Fonda Fina is fun and vibrant and a great place to visit if you’re craving traditional Mexican with a twist. They have a vast menu, their portions are huge and the staff is super friendly.

Expendio de Maiz holds a special place in my heart and has consistently been my most fun dining experience in CDMX. It’s an outdoor-only spot with an open kitchen plan and wood-burning stove. The concept is that they serve small dishes with no menu: they’ll keep serving you until you tell them to stop. They’ll accommodate if you’re vegetarian but otherwise you get what you get. I dream about their coffee regularly, filled with spices and just the right amount of sugar. They’re cash only, and if you need to wait for a table, pop around the corner to Tus Besos Frios, a vintage and antique store that goes on and on.

A quick story: on my first visit to Expendio de Maiz, when I was traveling solo, I was seated at a communal table next to a guy my age. We smiled politely at each other but otherwise didn’t engage until one of the dishes was a whole small fish to be shared by two. We agreed to split it and began chatting. He was a photographer in town from Monterrey and was about to do a shoot for an emerging designer in Mexico City. I told him I worked in fashion and we chatted for the rest of the meal. At the end he asked me if I wanted to go to the shoot; at one point he’d texted the designer and asked if it was ok if I joined. I didn’t have any other plans, so I tagged along and am so glad I did. Liz (the designer) and I are still friends and she’s taken me all around Mexico City, particularly guiding me twice through the vast fabric district downtown (check out her work here!). That night, the four of us (Liz, the photographer and model, plus Liz’s adorable dog Coca) went out for drinks and late-night tacos. It’s one of my favorite travel stories, showing how meeting locals and saying “yes” can completely change your outlook on a city (and make lifelong memories and friendships, as cheesy as that sounds).

So you want a street taco, but you’re nervous about your stomach? Go to Tacos El Paisa, one of the only street taco spots I’ve been able to save on Google Maps. It’s (of course) delicious and authentic; make sure you try the zillion different types of salsa on offer. Cash only.
Another solid taco chain is Tacos El Huequito, known for their al pastor tacos.

Niddo is great for breakfast and had the fluffiest pancakes I’ve had outside Japan! I went back twice in one trip and sat outside both times. Peltre is great for a coffee and a quick bite (they have a few locations). If you’re craving a green juice or something healthy, Ojo de Agua is your spot (also a chain).

There are a handful of restaurants I haven’t been to but have been recommended multiple times, mostly because I find myself gorged on fresh fruit and street tacos and by the time dinner rolls around, I’m not hungry.

• Quintonil is a high-end dining experience rooted in traditional Mexican cuisine, pre-fixe only. It’s part of “the world’s 50 best restaurants” list and Michelin recognized.

• Pujol is famous worldwide for their mole and taco tasting menu, and has two Michelin stars

• Blanco Colima is one of Liz’s favorites, noted as an upscale bistro

• Contramar is in everyone’s guides for the best seafood in the city; apparently their fig tart is also incredible

• Marmota seems to be like a “local’s only” type of joint, with a cozy atmosphere and a menu inspired by the Pacific Northwest

Where to Drink

If you’ve read my other guides, you know I’m not a big drinker, but Mexico City is craft cocktail heaven. My two standout spots are:

Tlecan: if you only go to one bar, let this be it. We went on our night out after the shoot and it was locals-only. It’s since gotten more popular, but don’t let that deter you. They’re a Mezcal bar and only serve family-owned brands that can’t be bought at liquor stores. The bartenders are welcoming and knowledgeable and make incredible drinks. The vibe is moody and dark, and is totally unassuming from the outside. You’ll probably wonder if you’re in the right spot when you get there but, you are: open the door and you’re transported to an Aztec-inspired pyramid. Don’t be lame and skip the dried crickets and pepitas as bar snacks: they’re delicious!

I try to avoid restaurants and bars with multiple locations, but the Gin Gin on Álvaro Obregón is an exception. It turns into a club(ish) as the night goes on, but it’s perfect for a shopping break or early in the evening. Exceptional and fun cocktails.

I haven’t been to Casa Franca, but they have live jazz on Saturday nights. A friend recommends La Unica if you’re in Polanco for pre-dinner drinks, and Café Tacobar is known for chill vibes and tacos.

Mexico City has some of the best shopping ever. I wouldn’t bother shopping near the Zocolo or the big malls (although they’re all gorgeous) because you’ll mostly find international stores. The gems lie in the neighborhoods I’ve already mentioned, filled with small vintage spots, independent designers and quirky concept stores. There are a few great high-end spots in Polanco.

I have not been to Substack-darling Chava Studio yet, but cannot wait to visit to get a custom-made shirt (classic button down? tuxedo? there are so many options!). It’s not in an area where I have other things bookmarked, otherwise I’d include it in my neighborhood breakdown.

Similarly separate(ish) is the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela, a huge craft market on the east side of the city. There are some very cool pieces here, especially leather goods and cotton/lace. You have to wade through stalls of generic touristy gifts, but there are great finds here.

Roma Norte

Carla Fernandez is synonymous with modern Mexican clothing design; the stores alone are worth the visit. I have a few CF pieces that are timeless and always make me feel chic when I wear them. Their website explains their ethos best:

Carla Fernández is a fashion house based in Mexico City dedicated to preserving and revitalizing the textile legacy of indigenous and mestizo communities of Mexico. The brand’s vision in regards to manual methods proves that ethical fashion can be innovative, avant-garde and progressive. …Carla Fernández works in creative and productive collaboration with artisans in each project; techniques such as embroidery or manual weaving are an integral part of the design and production of new pieces and collections.

Cara de Planta Esculturas Vivas is hands-down my favorite store in CDMX, and it’s not clothing! They sell super funky, weird, and quirky ceramics that are all unique, from planters to figurines and the best mugs and vases. I easily spend an hour here each trip and would buy the whole store if I could!

Vintage Hoe is the place for 2000s vintage and a potential traditional Japanese score. The store is small but has a fun selection.

Casa Bosques is to Mexico City as Ofr. is to Paris (if you’re familiar). Casa Bosques is in a whitewashed, sun-drenched converted town home filled to the brim with fashion and art periodicals, books, and stationary, both in English and Spanish. Their selection of Mexican-published books is amazing.

I have Cardon saved in my Google Maps as “Mexican Paloma Wool.” The designs are super interesting and different, with a contemporary, almost streetwear lean.

Proyecto Rufina Roma Norte is a cutesy boutique featuring mostly handmade homewares and clothing. It partly feels like a store you could find in any city, but there are definitely gems there, especially if your style is more feminine.

Audette is a handbag store, similar-ish to By Far. They’re known for their cactus leather bags and unique colors and designs.

Hi-Bye is one of my favorite concept stores. Their clothing is extremely unique, something you definitely couldn’t find anywhere else. The staff is super friendly and they make ask to take a photo of you for their IG page. Some of my favorite jewelry is from Hi-Bye. Their clothing selection reminds me of Bungee Space in NYC.

ZII ROPA was made for the minimalist: only neutral colors and mostly linen and cotton materials. The prices are reasonable and the designs are contemporary but not overly trendy.

YOKO Butik is one of the tiniest stores I’ve ever stepped into, but with a selection that packs a punch. I regularly think about a gorgeous vintage Dries van Noten coat I passed on a few years ago from YOKO: nothing haunts you like the vintage you didn’t buy.

Goodbye Folk has a few locations in the city and while they’re fun to browse, I don’t necessarily think it’s worth the visit/time, as it’s all Americana.

Juárez

Nin Studio is paradise for anyone who loves anything pleated, à la Issey Miyake. Their shapes are interesting and different, with eye-catching prints and colors. A must visit!

Havre Studio went viral for their reconstructed blazers and suits. There are hundreds of options at the store and you’ll see tailors working on projects live for a true “studio” experience.

If you’re looking for clothing made of Mexican textiles, Fábrica Social is your spot.

Dafrehica is a multibrand boutique with trendy designs that are reasonably priced, plus a few core basics; think “high street.” I’ve been a few times and have always purchased something!

Utilitario Mexicano’s home goods are all made in Mexico and are modern leaning. From sponges to silverware and fabric napkins, everyone can find something here. Great for gifts.

Polanco

I found Xinú Perfumes through a Vogue recommendation and am so glad I did. I’ve been wearing the same scent from them (Ummo) every day for the last four years. Their in-store experience is the best of any store I’ve ever been to, full stop. Ask the staff for a tour and for them to tell you about each scent; that’s all I’ll say because I don’t want to give anything away! Everything is unisex and even if you’re not a scent person, seeing the store and hearing the history is absolutely worth the trip. They also have a smaller location in Roma (I haven’t been yet).

LAGO is a very high-end multibrand store, carrying exclusively designers from Latin America (they have a selection of Cara de Planta Esculturas Vivas!). There’s another location in Juárez, but smaller.

IKAL Store is a fairly large concept store where you can spend hours browsing and trying on different pieces, all from Mexican designers. (IKAL MEN is in Juárez.)

Sandra Weil reminds me of Carolina Herrera: feminine shapes mostly in crisp cotton, ideal for a special event or an elevated vacation wardrobe.

I have not even begun to scratch the surface of all the things to do in Mexico City. Just walking around is an event in itself. It’s a massive city and as someone who prioritizes shopping and then activities, my list of extracurriculars definitely has a few open slots. But, what I have done, I recommend:

Zócalo/Plaza de la Constitucion: this is the center of the government and are the oldest buildings in CDMX. Walk around the area and visit the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, a stunning and massive church. If you’re looking for big-box stores like Levi’s and Inditex brands, these are in the same area.

The fabric district starts south of the Zócalo and goes on for several city blocks. Unfortunately I’ve only gone with my friend Liz, who guides me around, but if you’re interested in fabrics/sewing or are in the industry, finding a local guide would absolutely be worth it. Great window shopping for quinceañera dresses, too.

Bosque de Capultepec is the “Central Park” of Mexico City and is leafy, tranquil, unique and gorgeous! Go to the bookstore Libreria Porrua, which carries Spanish and English books. It overlooks a lake and is the perfect place to relax away from the hustle and bustle.

The Museo Nacional de Antropología is an architectural behemoth that’s massive. Even if you can only go for an hour, it’s worth it! My favorite part was the Aztec section. You don’t need tickets in advance.

The Frida Kahlo museum is a must go, it’s absolutely worth the hype and has become a core memory. It’s incredible. It’s about a half day excursion (at the minimum) and you’ll want to take an Uber to get there. You must get tickets in advance.

Friends of mine recommend the Palacio de Bellas Artes building and museum, exploring the Plaza de las Tres Culturas, and of course going to a lucha libre experience (I was sick when my friends went, so sad!). Teotihuacan is an ancient Mesoamerican city (predates the Aztecs) and is about an hour north of CDMX.

As I said in the beginning, Mexico City is magical. The architecture, people, and culture are inspiring. You’re guaranteed to fall in love with the city in your own way, and then long for when you can visit next (at least I do). Please share this guide and let me know if you find it useful! ¡Buen viaje!

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If you’re interested, I also have guides for Paris & Copenhagen.

If summer was made into a bag, it would be this Chanel, for a cheeky $4200

With a capri and little kitten heel? Perfection. Vintage Valentino top, S, $105

More of a Cavalli gal? I have you covered. Vintage Cavalli top, M, $345

Chloe’s jellies from last season would be so cute with either of those tops. Size 9, $255

The perfect day-to-night dress for hot summer days (and nights). Dries van Noten dress, M, $325

I’d wear this Isabel Marant top while sipping on a perfectly chilled red. 100% cotton top, M, $125

I’d love to see this skirt with the Isabel top. Or my favorite Brut Archive tee for some color contrast? Or paired with these sandals that I unfortunately can’t get out of my head? The possibilities are endless. Pleats Please Issey Miyake skirt, S, $245

Pucci is the unofficial sponsor of summer. These espadrille sandals with the little heel cap are adorable. Size 9, $225

Need a wedding guest dress, or just a stunner for a night out? Pairs perfectly with ’s viral olive-juice mocktail. Halston dress, size S, $155

I feel like these can hold their own on hot asphalt and cobblestone streets, dressed up or down: the Swiss Army knife of heels. St. Agni sandals, size 8, $115

Style this versatile top with a sporty short and little printed wedge for a bit of interest. Sea NY top, M, $165

These unique Fendi mules are showstoppers. Size 7.5, $285

Lastly, nothing screams summer like a juicy Fendi Baguette. Most are from TRR, but a few eBay/Vestaire options are sprinkled in.

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Starting in May, I put myself on a clothing and shoe shopping ban until August, and while two items have slipped through the cracks (oops), I’m otherwise steadfastly sticking to it. While on Ban Island I’ve had time to think about my closet and what recent-ish purchases have stood out. I once heard someone say, “If you can’t buy it twice, you can’t afford it,” and I’ve morphed this statement into a similar thought: “If you wouldn’t buy it again, it’s not worth it.” I’m sharing what’s been on my heaviest rotation over the last several months, and while three of these were gifted to me via the brands, I’d either spend my own money on them or have already done so and bought more.1

Without further ado, my favorite darlings, a wish list for good measure, and thoughts on a key part of my childhood in the mountains becoming a microtrend.

Tees & Jewelry

Brut Archives long-sleeve (on sale!) and t-shirt: I stopped in to Brut Archives on a recent trip to NYC, specifically hunting down a graphic tee. Their whole schtick is vintage and workwear-inspired menswear. While you could absolutely buy the same vibe second hand and for a fraction of the price, their cuts and materials are worth the markup. I got this Paris graphic tee in-store, and bought the short-sleeve tee online because I’m already wearing the long sleeve to death. They’re both the perfect heavy-ish weight (ideal for San Francisco temps) and slightly cropped. The graphics are expertly worn to look vintage, and I can’t tell you how many compliments I’ve gotten on both styles. I wear a medium and they fit perfectly. Outfit inspo for a white long sleeve version here (includes a pair of sunglasses I’ve had my eye on, more on that below, and the best hair clip ever).

Susana Vega’s beaded ear cuff in olive, wood ear cuff & wood hoops: it’s rare to be stopped in your tracks when shopping online, but Susana Vega’s jewelry did that to me. My heart quickened and I immediately scrolled the entire site, feeling like I’d just stumbled upon a new vice. I’d seen the wood and beaded earcuff styled with the wood hoops on Claudia Li Johnson (of Vin) and had to have them. They’re offbeat and unusual, and can be worn as a set or alone.

Shoe Staples

influenced me into buying these Loeffler Randall sandals/flats and I’ve worn them countless times since (lots of outfit inspo here). They quickly became my go-to, as they add a perfect amount of color, texture through the satin moire fabric, and interest in their shape. They’re also great with a colorful sock (my favorite are from Le Bon Shoppe; they’re a compliment magnet.

I’ve been hunting for the perfect pair of fisherman sandals since Biden was President. When Margaux reached out to me offering a pair of shoes, I jumped at the chance to try on a few styles at their San Francisco location. I’d been in before, but nothing had quite caught my eye (except for their interior design, a perfect mix of MCM and antiques). This time, I tried their fisherman sandals and instantly fell in love. They’re so comfortable: I’ve worn them twice in the last week for 10k steps (no socks) with zero blisters. They have a slightly padded sole that makes all the difference. They are pricey, but the quality is top notch and I’d absolutely spend my own money on another pair. (Truly, the quality is in-line with Chanel.)

I think I nearly drove my boyfriend to madness with my hunt for the perfect pair of loafers over the past year. I ordered the tasseled style from The Row twice, returning both times because they were too stiff. I narrowly missed out on a fringed Jamie Haller pair. I refused to get anything resembling The Row’s eelskin loafers because everyone has them and I have to be chronically unique (derogatory, I think). That all changed when I took shelter in Pȇche in the LES during a rainstorm. I tried on their version of the eelskins, and immediately fell in love. They’re $145, incredibly soft leather, and comfortable right out of the box. I guess sometimes it’s ok to look like everyone else, because now I get it (and for 10% of The Row’s price). I mostly wear them with the aforementioned Le Bon Shoppe socks, but they can work sockless, too.

While I was there, I picked up a pair of black boat shoes with gold eyelets (a close Bally dupe, which are on sale). I have a different classic brown pair, but the black is elevated and looks slightly more formal; I also love the juxtaposition of wearing a casual style in a deep, rich black in the warmer months. They’ll ease perfectly into fall, too. A note on Pȇche: I bought a few things from them mid-Covid and thought the quality was just ok; it’s definitely improved over the years and I’m impressed with the shoes I bought, especially for the price.

These past few months have awarded me the holy-grail of shoe staples because I finally found my ideal pair of flats: this square toe pair from J. Crew. I wanted something different than a standard almond toe, without any ruching or funny business around the vamp. I was wearing them the other day and running late to catch BART (for those not in the Bay Area, it’s our train system) and literally ran three-quarters of a mile in these (and my Brut Archives blue tee!) to catch it. Zero blisters and no weird creasing. Win win!

Shoe sizing: buying shoes online is typically a losing battle for me because I seem to wear a different size in every brand. In general, I’m a solid 39 for any designer shoe and a US 8 in sneakers. Here’s what I wear for each pair:

• Loeffler Randall: 8.5

• Margaux: 38.5/8.5, 39/9 for their heeled ballet style

• Both Pȇche shoes: 39

• J.Crew: 8

Accoutrements

I’d seen Cadence’s travel “system” before but was hesitant to buy because of the price. I have a zillion pouches and use small bead cases for pills when I travel. However, Cadence offered to let me try their system and pouches gratis, and my curiosity got the best of me. I’ve gone on a few weekend trips since I got these, and I gravitated towards the medium and small cases for pills, but didn’t end up using the entire set for liquids. The cases are hefty and feel great in your hand, and I love the stacking ability because they’re magnetic. I now carry a small one in my everyday bag. The clear pouch is made of thick, flexible plastic and snaps closed with magnets, putting my other pouches to shame. They stack so easily in my carry-on, and I love that I can see what’s inside. Verdict: pricey, but worth it if you’re a traveler who wants to up their organization game. Would also make a great gift!

Hoy boy. The Ziip Halo has changed my skin in a way I never thought possible. After reading ’s literally glowing review, I decided to get one, and I’m so glad I did! I’ve only had it for three weeks, but my skin’s texture has greatly improved, it looks much brighter, and is more defined where I want it (cheekbones, working on my jawline). Unprompted, my sister said I look younger in a picture I sent her! Win. (And bitchy? JK.) It’s relaxing to do and results are instant. If you’re on the fence, do it - it’s the only skin device I’ve tried that’s truly worth it.

Edit: use code MITGANG for 10% off at Ziip!

Less sexy but still relevant to having great skin are the Proper hydration sticks in cucumber melon & watermelon berry. Initially a gift, I’ve reordered these twice and have one once a day. I like the taste of these significantly more than any other version I’ve tried, and they contain magnesium, which helps with muscle recovery/support. They absolutely quench my thirst in a way water alone doesn’t.

These Past Midnight “Icon” sunglasses have been on my SORTD2 list forever. Everyone seems to have the Elisa Johnson glasses so this dipped, almost oval shape feels fresh to me.

I’m normally not into any sandal that looks like it could be mistaken for a pair of Jack Rogers, but these Staud leopard-print sandals are scratching an itch in my brain. They look like something you could get in classic leather in a European seaside town, but the red and ponyhair combo pulls them into another dimension.

This Valesque nylon bag gives 90s Prada minimalism for much less. It’s the perfect size for running around (and holding my water bottle, which is a must) and is understated yet cool. I made a cutie outfit with the brown version here.

I don’t own any Issey Miyake, which seems blasphemous. I’ve seen the Madame T stole styled a dozen+ different ways on Instagram, and it looks like the perfect travel piece to easily create chic, elevated outfits. Unfortunately they’re so popular that it seems to be always sold out. I’m on high alert any time I get an Issey email, hoping it’s a restock notification.

I never put my bag on the ground and unfortunately, U.S. restaurants haven’t gotten the bag stand memo from Europe. A bag hook would solve all my problems and keep me from shoving my purse behind me on my chair during dinner. This one is made by Courtney Kinnare, an independent artist who also makes funky glass light fixtures.

I wish I could remember who on here introduced me to Karen Tinney vases ( was it you?!) but alas, I’m coming up short. I can’t get enough fringe on my clothing and accessories these days, and homewares aren’t any different. The vases even come with a comb! Incredible.

Look up niche in the dictionary and you’re bound to find see: Parvum Opus. They specialize in hand-marbled and printed paper, selling it by the sheet and via objects made from the paper. I’m particularly fond of the shadow box with intaglios; a collection of them on a wall would be stunning.

Fly fishing is cool again

I played mahjong with my friends this past weekend, and as we were all leaving the hostess’s house, her husband and teenage son were getting back from a fly fishing trip in Tahoe. “Fly fishing is chic. I think it’s the next old school sport to become cool again,” I told my other friend as she drove me home. That night, I saw Bode’s new “Fly-Tie,” exclusively launched at their Paris store during Fashion Week. Even though I currently have what I’m calling “trout nails” as my latest set, Bode standing behind the sport confirmed my inkling that being an angler, or t(r)outing anything angler-inspired, is back.3 (I’ve also thought about wearing my fishing vest for fashun purposes…)

This microtrend makes sense to me, specifically around everyone’s obsession to “go analog:”

There are few things more peaceful than standing in the middle of a river in silence while the gentle pressure of the cool water hugs your legs in your waders. The sudden jerk of a fish latching on to an expertly tied fly is both invigorating and satisfying, unless, of course, you’ve actually just snagged a piece of driftwood. As you gently, but firmly, grip the glistening and gaping fish in your hands, you marvel at the simplicity and skill it takes to catch a cutthroat trout. Holding it in the water, upstream, of course, so it can fill its gills, you let it go and watch it gracefully swim away, silently admonishing it for not knowing the difference between a stonefly and your feather alternative. You hope if it happens again, it’ll be met by another catch and release angler at the end of the line.

I write this as someone who grew up along the creeks (cricks) and rivers of Idaho and Montana, building “fish hotels” (aka circles of rocks) out of stones in the water until I was old enough to have my own rod. My dad tied his own flies, and eventually taught me the art. It was imbedded into our family with the same fervor as a weekend ball-game tradition many had but instead, we’d go fishing.45

And isn’t this the magic of fashion? Cherished memories resurfaced and reinvented through the lens of creative sartorial expression, holding the line until I cast again.

Thank you for reading the amalgamation of my random thoughts; let me know if you get anything (or take up fly fishing)!

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The color of the moment, a spring-ready silhouette and in the most luxurious cashmere ever.

The next two give me “mermaid summer” vibes.

These St. Agni paracord sandals are an easy way to add a sporty element to any outfit. I have a similar pair from last year and love them for styling!

I’m drawn to necklaces in unusual shapes. I’d layer this with a tennis necklace for contrast and shine, or as-is over a swimsuit. Chic.

Although more of a fall piece, this plaid jacket with fireman clasps is such a classic, and at a great price. Buy now, wear later!

This Donna Karan top is a perfect layering piece.

Or, on it’s own, with this Ralph Lauren Black Label (runway) skirt.

For the horse girl who wants to dabble in the tassel trend.

I can’t believe the price on this barely-worn Lisa Yang cashmere wrap sweater!

I bought an antique nightgown in Amsterdam two years ago and it’s become a spring/summer staple. I love the neckline and bodice detailing on this cotton dress.

I believe in year-round sequins and think they hit even harder outside the holidays.

Richly embroidered outerwear is everywhere, and this Sue Wong number is Conner Ives-adjacent. Sew on some faux fur for a truly luxe look.

The perfect vintage occasion bag with a scalloped edge, subtle beaded detail, and singular tassel.

If you get anything, be sure to let me know!

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I bought a black felt pillbox hat this week, emphatically exclaiming to my best friend that after months of searching online, in thrift and vintage stores and haberdasheries, I had finally found the perfect one. “This is the kind of weird niche stuff you’re always looking for,” was her response, because she knows I have a running list in my head of highly specific things I covet.1

This list is always churning and morphing in my brain. The pillbox hat is one example of many, and in that spirit, I’m sharing my other current fixations with you here. Depending on who you are, they’re either obvious closet needs or strange and superfluous. And, to note, I’m a true “fall/winter” gal when it comes to what I wear. So while we inch toward summer literally, stylistically I still favor the second half of the year. This usually works for me since I live in San Francisco, but every now and then, a pop of turquoise is needed. With that…

This specific shade of blue

Femme Y2K fashion references seem to be all over my feed these days, from 13 Going on 30 inspired dresses to stills of Sara Paxton shimmering as a mermaid in Aquamarine. Katherine Heigel’s character in Wish Upon a Star isn’t referenced enough, IMO, but that’s neither here nor there. While I love the nostalgia and whimsy of this resurgence, I can’t quite get on board with my own personal style. I am, however, hunting down bright aqua pieces with a ferocity akin to finding Britney Spears’s exact Juicy Couture sweatsuit in 2004 on eBay (something I definitely did as a 13 year-old).

The fixation began when coming across Khaite’s now sold-out ostrich ballet flats, a piece of footwear priced at more than my month’s rent and in a color and material so outlandish I thought, maybe, they were an April Fool’s joke on Net-A-Porter. Wrong. Not only are they not a joke, they’ve taken up a very serious amount of my brain space. Occupying similar real estate is a top I can’t track down to save my life, a ¾ length sleeve boatneck tee that I swear someone on Substack did as part of a collab ( was it you?!). 2025 me thought it looked like something out of a Land’s End 2005 catalog. 2026 me is clearly still thinking about it. The problem is that only designer brands seem to be offering this color in any earnest (men’s Prada, Celine, Khaite) and resale options are often of the stretchy workout clothing variety. Maybe this color will trend next year, but right now, I’m eagerly searching for that piece in this specific shade of blue that’ll scratch the itch.

This J.Crew cashmere sweater is close, but I’d prefer it in cotton or a v-neck. Banana Republic has two skirt options, one a printed mesh and the other a classic slip from their Factory line, but neither are perfect (for me). Tory Burch seems to be picking up on this most of all, highlighting “marine blues” on their new arrivals page, but I’m looking for something less overly summer/resort wear. (This sequin skirt, though, is what warm weather dreams are made of.) A silk shirt option here for $6, a long sleeve courtesy of L.L. Bean here for $15 (I’m very much considering this one), and a bright chore coat for $46, all from the ocean depths of eBay. Lastly, I’m rounding out my “not quite right for me but so close” selects with these Simon Miller pants on TRR.

Party pants

There’s a bit of discourse around the return of the “going out top,” and while I do think it’s on the come up, I’m all about “going out pants” (except the pants can be for worn at any time of day). A pair of loud, printed or colorful pants is sartorially interesting in this post-Quiet Luxury world,2 especially when paired with a graphic tee, leather fringe jacket, a cape (another Blanca special), a well-loved sweatshirt, or an opera coat. The styling possibilities are endless. Chan Luu’s techno taffeta pants and Donni’s silk gingham pair have essentially broken the fashion internet. I don’t think one can own too many pairs of party pants, so I recently picked up a deep olive green silk shantung to make my own. Do I still want these from La Veste?3 Absolutely.

Clear acrylic bangles

I’m not a bracelet wearer, save for my daily watch and tennis bracelet combo, but I think big, acrylic bangles are on the path to resurgence and I have a deep desire to own one in clear. I’m genuinely considering one from Lizzie Fortunato, which feels modern because it’s more of a cuff than a bangle. However, I can’t quite pull the trigger, since I’m convinced I’ll find one for a fraction of the price if I troll the internet long enough. Like the pillbox hat, though, I may end up buying the contemporary version of a trend that existed many moons ago.

Fringe on everything

Enter the year-round fall/winter vibes. Tassels are having a moment and are seriously everywhere, much to my dismay, because that means that sooner rather than later they’ll be overplayed. I believe in always wearing what you want, but when Zara starts glomming on to a trend, you know the end is near.

That being said, I absolutely love the idea of a silk scarf with fringe (à la ) and an evening bag with the same swishy trim. Le Nodo’s beaded version is becoming a fan favorite, and while I think it’s important to support independent designers, I also know I can make my own. This past week, I pulled dozens of fabric bolts at Mood and various stores around the Garment District of Manhattan, finally landing on a dusty blue satin for a soft little bag and an eggshell silk jacquard for the scarf. I got the most unique ombre fringe at Mood for the bag. I asked the trims guy why they didn’t have more on offer when it’s “definitely trending.” He said, like me, three other people had bought the same trim in the last hour, getting two yards each, and yet they won’t be carrying it anymore once the bolt is sold through. Missed opportunity! At Hai Trim & Feathers on W 38^th, I looked at 6, 12, and 24 inch ivory trim, landing on 12” because while I love drama, I’d probably be tripping on 24 inches of fringe.

Another fringe vehicle: the piano shawl

Piano shawls, originally designed as literal garments for pianos, are having a moment. I saw two gorgeous vintage ones this past week while shopping and didn’t pull the trigger, for whatever reason, and of course, can’t stop thinking about them. They can be styled so many ways: as a top when worn over a base layer, draped around the shoulders of a trench coat, tied at the hips like a pareo, etc. I’ve seen a few outerwear pieces and dresses fashioned after the piano shawl, too, like Bee Carrozzini’s look at this year’s Met Gala. The style has had many moments in the sun, most recently in the 2010s, but this go-round exudes history, mystery, and elegance in a way that one from Free People just can’t land. To visually pull this post together, I’ve searched the interwebs and have, I think, come up with some true gems. Get one before I collect them all.

Opera coats

As we’ve learned, nothing haunts me like the vintage I didn’t buy. About a year ago, I came across the most intricately pleated black I. Magnin opera coat. I had popped into a vintage store on a whim with a group of friends, and felt self-conscious about making a $285 impulse purchase. Mistakes were made, regrets have been had, and I think of that coat more often than I’d like to admit. I’m trying to fill the void by finding it’s perfect replacer and so far, haven’t come across The One, but these options are pretty stellar (this $5000 Bode number is a dream). What I do love about this particular hunt is that once dowdy brands like Chico’s are suddenly chic and honestly, that sits right with me. My 2025 Spotify Wrapped age was, after all, 86.

This Max Mara hat

Similar to the bright aqua long sleeve, I can’t remember who originally posted this incredible straw Max Mara hat in an edit, but I both simultaneously thank them and curse the day they were born. A few weeks ago, my boyfriend and I were having sushi and I pointed to the ceiling lamps. “Oh my god. These look just like this hat I can’t stop thinking about.” To prove my point, I whipped out my Soortd app and showed him then and there while we waited for our next red crab handroll. I have very few occasions for which I need a straw hat, much less one that’s $600, but damn, she’s pretty.

This is less a shopping list and more of a rotating archive of highly specific wants: some practical (most not) and all taking up an unreasonable amount of my brain space. From elusive shades of aqua to fringe-trimmed everything, they’re the pieces I’m chasing, rationalizing, and occasionally attempting to make myself. What’s on your “weird niche list”?

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Hej there!

I often dream of living in Copenhagen. While Paris is my favorite city, there’s something familiar about Copenhagen that’s inviting and warm, where I can see myself shopping for weekly groceries or going on a Saturday morning walk. The people are friendly, the city is accessible, there’s a rich history and if you’re a fashion girlie, you know the style and shopping is unmatched. I’ve visited twice and emphatically encourage anyone considering a trip to go, pronto.

As I laid out in my post about my travel ethos, my suggestions mix high and low and are centered around shopping, eating, and a healthy dose of culture1. I’d recommend a total of four days (at the minimum) when visiting: three for the city itself and one to explore either Frederiksborg Castle or the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. I haven’t visited the famous Trivoli Gardens; if a retro amusement park is your thing, make sure you plan for that, too.

I stayed in an Airbnb both times I visited Copenhagen and unfortunately, neither are available anymore (a serious bummer because one of them was my favorite Airbnb of all time). Both were on the far side (northwest) of the large park, Østre Anlæg, in residential areas. It was about a 15-minute walk to the main shopping area and lovely in the spring and fall. However, I can imagine it would turn into a trek in the winter with snow, so I’d avoid staying on that side of town if you’re visiting in the colder months.

Getting Around

Biking is, of course, the preferred mode of transportation in Copenhagen. According to Denmark’s website, 62% of residents use bikes for commuting, and there are over 385km of protected lanes throughout the city. I, however, am terrified of bikes (I know, I know) so I basically walked everywhere. If you need a car, I recommend downloading the TAXA app for taxis around the city. Uber’s available there, but only as a booking platform for taxis, and it’s faster to go straight to the source. It functions the same as Uber. The Metro within the city is super fast, easy, and clean, and trains for destinations outside the city are just as convenient.

Cash

Like most modern cities, ApplePay and cards are accepted basically everywhere. Having a little cash, especially when shopping at smaller thrift/antique stores will benefit you, but isn’t necessary.

Tipping is not expected in Copenhagen, unless you had an incredibly exceptional experience, then 10% is a good guideline.

Danish fashion is arguably my favorite “style” of the current fashion city archetypes. There’s a playfulness and creativity to Danish style that’s unmatched, running parallel to the colorful looks of the Portuguese and the minimal styling of the Scandi gal, having formed its own DNA full of whimsy and experimentation. Don’t forget to shop with your passport to get VAT back!

Contemporary

• Ganni & Ganni Postmodern (Outlet): I’m a “Ganni Girl,” deep in my bones. Ditte, I’m available to answer your call, whenever. And as a Ganni Girl, I cannot go to Copenhagen without visiting at least one mainline (non-markdown) Ganni store and their outlet. My favorite location is their flagship store, as it’s the largest, but all are worth popping into because their offering and sale sections vary by location. Their outlet, Ganni Postmodern, is a bit of a trek but absolutely worth it. I’ve scored some of my most favorite pieces there for a true fraction of the price, and the staff is really friendly.

• Stine Goya is another homegrown brand full of color, whimsy, and prints. I think it’s the cooler sister of Marimekko. There are two locations, the linked one is small and easy for a quick pop-in.

• Baum und Pferdgarten’s store is a visual treat, with stark, clean lines creating the perfect backdrop for beautiful clothing and a gas fireplace making you feel kind of at home. The space is huge and almost feels like shopping in a gallery. BuP’s aesthetic is more on the minimal side.

• Henrik Vibskov is my favorite multi-brand boutique in Copenhagen, and their in-house line is elevated, yet funky, in true Danish fashion. They stock the best shoes (Tabi heaven). Their only other location is on Broome St. in NYC. (Men’s & women’s)

• Mads Nørgaard is a Copenhagen fashion explosion, offering men’s, women’s, and accessories.

• Another nué is a neutral-lover’s dream. The prices are reasonable and pieces seem to be relatively high quality. The staff is meh.

• Storm is mostly men’s and a little hype-beasty, but has a great collection of fashion books, fragrance and accessories.

• Lot #29 rivals Henrik Vibskov for my favorite multi-brand boutique. If you’re short on time and want a saturated Copenhagen fashion experience, definitely go here.

• If you’re a minimal girlie, Skall is for you, as is The Aiayu Store (clothing & homewares).

• Mr. Larkin is basically viral amongst the fashion set, and for good reason. Easy layering, crisp shirting, and unique shoes make it a destination in itself. It’s a trek across the city, but worth it.

• Unfortunately Helmstedt closed their physical locations, but if you’re a fan of the whimsy, you won’t want to miss them. Pro tip: order online in advance of your trip and have it shipped to your hotel/Airbnb.

• Copenhagen’s Arket is massive and a must-visit if you don’t live in the EU. I have a note that the bathroom code is 2780. If that still works, you’re welcome.

Vintage & Consignment

With great style, comes great responsibility… to resell. The resale scene in Copenhagen is phenomenal; all the fashion gals have to unload last season’s closet somewhere, right? For a leisurely shopping stroll, head to Larsbjørnsstræde, which is lined with vintage and consignment stores.

• O-S-V. Secondhand Fashion is teensy tiny but is one of my favorite consignment stores in the city. I snagged an amazing pair of Maryam Nassir Zadeh croc-embossed heels for $80 and a like-new Wood Wood windbreaker. Highly recommend.

• No.10 Edith Hegedüs is a bit of a Roman Empire to me: I think of it often. Unique jewelry perfect for a modern antiquarian, offering vintage and contemporary pieces with reworked antique elements. The staff is very friendly and the space small and welcoming.

• Magnolias is home to the most gorgeous Cecilie Bahnsen dress I didn’t buy. Nothing haunts you like the purchases you didn’t make. The store is filled with vintage and contemporary designer, and the staff is so nice and patient. It’s a small, packed space, so leave plenty of time to forage.

• Collector’s Cage is down the street (a touristy one) from Magnolias, and is the holy grail of 1900s-2010s bags. While you’d probably be able to find the same thing on eBay for less, everything is in impeccable shape and the merchandising is fantastic. Don’t miss downstairs, which is vintage Louis Vuitton heaven.

• Time’s Up Vintage is a highly curated store; it was a little stuffy for me, but I can’t deny that they have standout pieces. Definitely go in if you have an affinity for the 1990s Calvin Klein aesthetic.

• For my minimalist gals or those who prefer only neutrals, Jerome Vintage is for you. They also usually have a fair amount of Courreges from the 1970s.

• PRAG has two locations, Nørrebro and Vesterbro. They’re true thrift stores, packed to the brim and requiring a bit of digging. However, they know their trends and merchandise accordingly. When I was there, there was a whole rack of “parachute pants.”

• Iblamelulu is a trek from the city center (but it’s next to Mr. Larkin) but worth it. It’s a designer consignment store with many items like new or with tags.

Home/Miscellaneous

• HAY House is the flagship location for cult-favorite pop-art homewares brand HAY. The space is light-filled and beautiful and if you’re lucky, the shop dog will be there for belly rubs.

• One day, my home will be filled with pieces from Helle Mardahl, glass-blower extraordinaire. If you’re not familiar with her work, definitely visit her website (if not the store). Her Bon Bon objects have been copied by countless brands, but nothing compares to the original. The studio space is truly dreamy! You have to buzz up to be let in, but don’t be intimidated or feel you have to purchase anything. It’s near Nyhavn, on a street lined with gorgeous old buildings, making it a beautiful walk.

• A controversial recommendation for some, a must-visit for others (me) is Skindhuset. They’re a fur and animal skin store, and I left with the most plush, gorgeous reindeer hide that I’ve draped over my reading chair at home. They have every type of pelt imaginable, and many are dyed fun colors.

• SUPeR BOOKSTORE is the Copenhagen fashion girlie’s version of a bookstore. Bright, colorful and independent with unique titles and zines.

• Paludan Bog & Café is a beautiful, old world-esque bookstore great for a walking break and a shot of espresso.

Copenhagen is a famous food city, and for good reason. While I’ve never been to noma, I don’t feel I’m missing out, because every other spot has been exceptional. My favorite meal ever was in Copenhagen, and unfortunately the spot closed, but let me tell you: dessert was bone marrow crème brulee, served in the bone, and it was otherworldly.

• Runner-up to Bone Marrow Spot is Høst2, where I had my favorite meal my last trip. Although categorized as fine dining, it’s not stuffy and has a very warm atmosphere. They serve Nordic cuisine with a twist, using local ingredients. This is my #1 restaurant recommendation – go!

• My second restaurant rec is Radio, which uses experimental techniques and local ingredients to craft an insane meal. Great food, casual yet elevated vibe. (There’s a metro stop nearby, as it’s a bit outside the city center but worth the visit.)

• When you’re shopped out and it’s a sunny day outside, head to Mojoe Kitchen & Bar for girl lunch: fries & an Aperol Spritz.

• TorvehallerneKBH is both an activity and a place to eat, and I went almost every single day while I was in Copenhagen because I could get fresh seafood for breakfast and no one would bat an eye. They also have a Grød inside, known for their oatmeal (a more normal breakfast option) piled high with a zillion toppings. (There are other Grød locations around the city). Make sure you leave time to walk around the market: it’s exceptional.

• For a sit-down restaurant at the market, visit Hallernes Smørrebrød for classic Danish food.

• If you want to feel cool and European, go to Café Dan Turell. Parisian vibes in Copenhagen. Dress to impress, but don’t try too hard.

• If you need a break from Nordic food (speak for yourself), Delphine serves up Italian/Mediterranean fare.

• I don’t usually share places I haven’t been, but I trust my friend who recommended Baka d’Busk implicitly. If you go to this cool hipster restaurant, let me know!

• My favorite (non-seafood) breakfast was at Seks, another spot recommended to me by the same friend. Their open-faced sandwich and fresh juice was the best way to start the day, and the location is ideal to kick off a round of shopping.

• Juno the bakery is internet famous for their cardamom buns (deservedly so).

• Over by Iblamelulu and Mr. Larkin are two standout spots: Hart kaneelbtoodjes for baked goods and bird:uptown for a drink.

Outside of shopping and eating, Copenhagen has some of the most beautiful parks I’ve ever visited and stunning castles to tour.

• Rosenborg Castle is a Renaissance-era landmark smack in the middle of Copenhagen, featuring incredibly distinct architecture with a green roof and spires. It’s surrounded by groomed gardens and a moat, making it seem like out of a fairytale. If you have the time, picnicking in front of the castle or stopping on a bench to read is a must-do. So is touring the castle itself; I don’t want to ruin the surprise, but one of the largest music boxes ever is housed inside, along with a phenomenal collection of nautilus shell goblets (my fave).

• One cannot go to Copenhagen without visiting Nyhavn, the famous canal lined with old boats and colorful houses. Nestled away from the bustle is Apollo Bar, perfect for a snack and, you guessed it, an Aperol Spritz outside.

• Visiting Frederiksborg Castle was a favorite experience because I was essentially alone the whole time, allowing myself to delusionally believe I lived there. Each room is intricately, elaborately decorated and has a stunning chapel inside. It’s decorated by era, theme, and color, and is like stepping into a massive cabinet of curiosities. Take the train from Copenhagen (use Google Maps to plan it out) and spend the whole day there. The surrounding town is quaint, with a few vintage/consignment/trinket shops. On my way out, I picked up some framed pressed flowers that are now hung in my apartment.

• While I was at Frederiksborg, my best friend went to the world-famous Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and waxed poetic about it. The photos alone are stunning, so if you’re more yearning for something other than a castle, this is the day trip for you (she also took the train from the city center).

• Taioba Tattoo Studio: I have 17 tattoos and my favorite was done as a walk-in here. If you’re into realism or fine line work, this is the spot for you. The artist (unfortunately I can’t remember his name) and another guy working there were so friendly and fun. I love to get a new tattoo when I travel, and would absolutely go back here.

• Lastly, one of my favorite memories in Copenhagen was sitting by the water in Østre Anlæg. It’s a large park with many spots to read, take a nap in the sun, or listen to the sounds of nature. I took a video of the grass swaying and ducks floating on the water, which was so still that the reflection almost looked like the real thing. I watch it when I need to be transported somewhere calm.

There is so much more to Copenhagen than what I’ve shared, but I’m hopeful this will get you started for what is sure to be a memorable trip. Try new things, buy the dress, get on a bike (if you dare).

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With this in mind, we entered Métier and now, friends, I have a new jewelry obsession. I don’t use the word “obsession” lightly but, it’s been over a week since I’ve been to Métier and I can’t stop thinking about it, so I’d say we’re in obsession territory.

The door was unlocked for us and we entered a small, gorgeous space with deep navy blue walls. The woman who was helping us was so friendly; my jaded self was absolutely shocked and wanted to hang out even longer because she was genuinely nice and knowledgeable. Of course, the pieces she was wearing were absolutely insane, including large metal and enamel earrings fashioned into some mystery bug and strands of gorgeous stones. Should I quit my corporate job and work here? I want to live here. I want to be Métier. I snapped out of my bullshit and started staring in awe at the vintage jewelry case. “Why,” I asked to S and my new bug-earring-wearing-friend, “would you shop at Cartier and spend your money when you could come here?” A genuine question, and I think one many of us who have an affinity for the antique and vintage wonder often.

The woman helping us said we could try anything on. At this point, I could feel little beads of sweat on my nose and an intense warmth on my face, meaning I was definitely turning red and couldn’t hide my excitement or bashfulness of the idea of playing dress-up (I should talk to my therapist about this, or just take a beta blocker like everyone else in SF). “No no, it’s okay, but thank you,” I said. S and I excitedly pointed at pieces, and my eyes locked in on a gold bangle with red cabochons. I’m not a bracelet gal; I wear my late dad’s watch every day with a very convincing-looking CZ tennis bracelet1, but that’s it. I think I actually lost my breath when I saw it: I imagine this is how one would feel seeing the Cliffs of Moher for the first time but here I was, having it in Hayes Valley. Bug Earrings (wholly complimentary) pulled it out and let me try it on. She explained its origins: Victorian, likely 1860-1880. Solid gold. Unique wavy design set with domed, red garnets. “Ah yes, cabochons,” I said, thinking I was on to something. “Actually, while technically cabochons, they called them carbuncles back then. Not nearly as sophisticated of a word and kinda gross, if you ask me.” See, I told you we liked her.

I slipped it on over my watch and CZ bracelet (can she tell the bracelet is fake? This is embarrassing! The watch is real, I swear!) and fell in love. Forget Cliffs of Moher. This must be what people talk about when they hold their child for the first time. It glittered in the light and made the most gorgeous stack on my wrist. I immediately felt like it was me, I was it. I saw us going to the symphony, laughing at dinners, leading a martini toast. I also knew we’d be together doing mundane tasks but making them glamorous, like laundry or running to the bodega, as BIA quips in her song Whole Lotta Money. At this point, I had to know. I grimaced, scared of the answer. “How much is it?” Bug Earrings scrolled on the catalog on her iPad and looked up at me. It was, in fact, a whole lotta money. “Five thousand.” I was kicked in the gut. The wind, which had me flying on garnet-colored clouds, was actually courtesy of a large industrial fan and the plug had just been pulled from the outlet. Ok, I can make this work. I can put it all on my credit card. Or I can pay cash and not go on a trip this year. I could sell half my closet. Do they take Klarna? Can I pay in four?

As quickly as I put it on, I took it off, gently placing it on the little velvet tray and saying goodbye forever. The longer it graced my skin, the more attached I’d grow, and I knew I had to remove it. I could see the scene unfold: S gently restraining me, telling me everything would be okay, I’d find something else soon. Bug Earrings would undo the clasp and slip it from my wrist, hurriedly placing it back in the case under lock and key. We’d be ushered out of the store and my friend would promptly put me under a 5150. I’d never see the Victorian carbuncle bracelet or Métier again.

Snap back to reality, ope, there goes gravity. I forced myself to find a piece of rebound jewelry, my eyes landing on a stunning cocktail ring. Rings are why we came into Métier in the first place, and this one was certainly unique. I leaned over to my friend. “Oh my god, look at that one! That huge cocktail ring with the enamel. The blue is so blue.” Bug Earrings immediately pulled it out for me, clearly enjoying torturing me with fine jewelry. “This one is really exceptional, you have a great eye.2 It’s from 1780, look at the condition it’s in! These are rose-cut diamonds surrounding a glass-covered window of braided hair. It has no inscription on the back, which indicates it may have been a clandestine love token of a potential affair. It’s also fairly large; we think it was worn over opera gloves.” Well goddammit. I love a story. And this ring is truly museum quality. 1780?! Think about that. It’s five years younger than the United States. Why is it in such perfect condition? Was the intended wearer too nervous to actually wear it? Or did she run off with said lover, leaving proper society behind forever, forsaking balls and jewels to live a life of seclusion with her one true love? The possibilities are endless.

At this point, I knew the ring was astronomically out of my price range, but I was holding on to a little glimmer of hope. As the kids say, I’m delulu. Bug Earrings scrolled on her iPad again and informed me that the ring is also five thousand dollars. My precious, I think, looking at the ring. One to rule them all. I reluctantly placed it back, worrying I suddenly looked like Gollum. I’m definitely as pale.

I should leave the store, right? I didn’t know I was a masochist but apparently I am, because I pointed to a locket in the same case. “Just for funsies, may I see that one? Look at the striped stones, what are those?” Clearly, the bashfulness I possessed upon entering the boutique had gone out the window. Now I’m pulling things with reckless abandon. I’m informed that the locket is from the 1880s and the stones are banded agate, which I didn’t even know was a thing. I ask if I can open it up and, surprise, I’m met with more hair inside and a photo of a gentleman with the most extraordinary mutton chops I’ve ever seen.3 “We really try not to unhouse any of our jewelry,” our guide told us. Unhouse. I’d never thought of it like that, but I actually think that’s beautiful. Who are we to replace the original inhabitants of these historic pieces? You think anyone else can compete with Sir Chops here? I highly doubt it. “And this one is, wow, five thousand six hundred.”

So there I was, with my little velvet tray worth nearly sixteen thousand dollars. But really, it was priceless. I’d never wished to be an heiress more than in that moment. I’ll be back for you, my preciouses. Don’t go home with that other lady who’s lingering, eyeing the bracelet. Wait for meeeee…

S and I moved around the store, looking at contemporary pieces and learning about their designers from Bug Earrings, my new BFF. Nothing, however, compared to the estate jewelry we started with, and I soon felt a gaping hole form in my soul in the shape of a Victorian garnet carbuncle bracelet. One of my friends has recently encouraged me to foster puppies. You think I can foster a puppy?! I can barely leave this inanimate object behind!

Eventually, S and I decided we should make our exit. I promised Bug Earrings I’d be back one day, and I believe I will be. I’ll be a woman with no spending limit, shopping like it’s AliExpress but in actuality, I’m gliding around Métier pointing to 250-year old pieces saying, “I’ll take that one. And that one. And that one!” After their door locked firmly behind us, we headed across the street and I purchased a pair of $38 butter yellow socks because, fuck, I had to get something, if not a $5,000 bracelet.

Hairwork, or “hair jewelry” dates back to the 17th century4 and was common in the 18th and 19th centuries, reaching peak popularity after Queen Victoria lost her husband in 1861. She wore several pieces of jewelry fashioned out of his hair as a form of mourning, although not all hairwork pieces serve the purpose of remembrance. As in the case of the ring at Métier, hair was used as a memento similar to that of a photograph, and hairwork began to decline in popularity as photography became commonplace. If you’re into the idea, these pieces are available to round out any appropriately freaky jewelry collection. Read more about hair jewelry here.

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There are “formulas” that work when I don’t want to peacock around town (a rare occasion): black oversized silk blouse, beaded necklace, piles of gold, Levi’s, a vintage bag and statement heel. Usually that works. But sometimes (most times), I want to shine. I want to feel quirky, chronically unique (complimentary).

So, while furiously binging the last half of Season 8 of Summer House last night (if you don’t know why, you live under a reality TV rock) I put together a few outfits for funsies, using my saved favorites from The RealReal and other pieces I’ve been eyeing from afar. Taking it a step further, I’ve thought about where I’d wear these looks in San Francisco, assuming I actually moved off my couch and exposed myself to the real world. Enjoy.

For chamber music at the Legion of Honor & dinner at the Spruce bar

Ordering a Hendricks dirty martini with blue cheese stuffed olives and the burger2 (on a house-made English muffin bun) with gruyere

For cocktails and classic dishes at the newly reopened The Big Four in the historic Huntington Hotel

Ordering the Huntington Martini, steak tartare and the San Francisco cioppino3

For people watching and Dim Sum for dinner (amongst other plates) at The Happy Crane

Ordering the Rosy Dawn and $120 prix fixe, because I want to try everything

For the best chicken of your life at Zuni Café and a nightcap at Martuni’s

Ordering the Caesar salad and roast chicken for two (there is no other option) and a lychee martini at Martuni’s

For Japanese comfort food at Bon, Nene

Ordering yaki onigiri, chicken karaage bites, original potstickers and the mentaiko spaghetti (their take on carbonara)

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Instead of hoarding my finds like a Niffler, I’ve decided to share them here for the greater good. You know, the stuff that really makes a difference in the world.

Today’s theme: a slutty little heel. These are all my actual selects as I’ve been window shopping, so they’re all my size (38-39ish). I’m a shoe gal through and through and want them all. Enjoy babes, and let me know if you buy anything!

Under $300

Prada. Butter yellow. Suede. Peep-toe. (!!!)

These patent leather cherry red Louis Vuitton babies are a grail find. Buy them before I do…

My favorite way to do silk (or satin): moire

These $900 Co. pumps look like they’ve never been worn and are under $100

I feel like these satin Louboutin mules are reminiscent of the Manolo Blahnik Marie Antoinette collection for a fraction of the price

The perfect bare kitten heel for summer

If your outfit doesn’t have pockets, at least your shoes will.

I love how the feathers are positioned on these slingbacks to minimize drag on the ground. It’s giving feather-quill-meets-shoe.

It’s all in the details: even the heel of these Prada pumps has a woven tweed texture

Splurge-worthy: over $350

Rich chocolate suede vintage Chanel: chef’s kiss

Another Prada winner with a flirty little heel pop

A spring mule that feels very SATC to me

To wear at Studio 54, if it existed in 2026

An architectural wedge from Khaite with gold accents

I’m a huge fan of black and brown, and the added texture of the embroidery really makes these Manolos pop

A take on the green-and-pink moment with the perfect pair from Roger Vivier

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Anyway, the texture of these fabrics create a richness when getting dressed that’s unmatched. While I firmly believe in the “wrong shoe theory” (or wrong whatever), nothing sets an outfit off like a bit of texture and styling tension. Texture is the difference between an average look and one that pops, creating contrast and interest on a canvas that would otherwise be flat. Opposite garments attracting visually surprises and delights.

The easiest way to incorporate texture into the wardrobe is often in fall, where chunky knits, faux fur and velvet do the heavy lifting. Warmer months are more of a challenge. Rich fabrics, like brocade and jacquard, are the most fun to wear when the sun is shining (IMO) because they’re epitome of the “wrong shoe” theory, but in fabric form. Spring is about lightness, but a jacquard duster will really pack a punch and turn heads. Loeffler Randall’s Devon Sandal is this idea actualized: bright red satin moire on a summer-ready design, which also look great with socks in the shoulder seasons.2

A repeatable styling trick I like to use is to pair something sporty with a more traditionally “formal” or “femme” fabric. I love the look of a graphic tee underneath a vintage sleep shirt made of lace or silk; Chan Luu’s sheer overlay dress does the same job. The casual, athletic nod paired with a more dressed-up piece creates an easy tension; the same goes for a sports jersey with a typically “gussied up” skirt.

When it’s just too hot, a fluffy feather brooch (a favorite of Matthieu Blazy for Chanel), woven bag or anything with a tassel will add interest without adding extra clothing. In the winter, wearing a straw beach bag with a heavily layered outfit is the epitome of “wrong,” which makes it so right.

Look 1: fabric texture (silk jacquard) + textured accessories (raffia bag & moire shoes) worn with “summery” pieces (graphic tee & white pants): One of my favorite purchases ever, a kaftan made of striped vintage silk from Istanbul | Woz Art tee | pants I made myself from a vintage tablecloth | Loeffler Randall sandals | Coach raffia kiss lock bag | Moscot sunglasses | jewelry throughout is either made by me or from various travels

Look 2: fabric texture (satin skirt with embroidery & fringe) + textured accessories and a sporty element: Portuguese soccer team jersey, alt non-jersey here in M | my best Zara purchase ever (unfortunately no longer available but I found 1 skirt here, eBay, S) | same sunglasses, bag and shoes as outfit 1

On the other hand, one standout piece can accomplish a similar effect, like the old adage of “just throw on a dress and go.” During a dinner date, a friend of mine was wearing a popcorn-textured teal long-sleeve tee with easy black pants. We discussed, at length, as Clothes People do, how her look would be completely different (and boring) if her top was a regular knit. I’ve been seeing more of these types of tops popping up lately as a nod to the early 2000s: my favorite modern interpretation is from Rachel Comey. What’s great about a pleat or popcorn effect is that it can easily be the main character. A simple black pant works here, and lets the star of the outfit shine. Maximum impact, as little effort as you want.

Ultimately, all of this isn’t a new idea and is arguably the foundation of Dries van Noten’s work; the purposeful clash of textures and maximalist styling drives a unique point of view that stands out amongst the sleek minimalism that’s been so pervasive over the last several years. A constant source of styling inspiration for me is ; her often colorful, cool-girl aesthetic hits you in the face like the first time you had a Sour Patch Kid, and yet feels approachable in a way of realizing, “I could wear that with that, too.” While I don’t pair sequins with feathers every day of the week, there is a tiny hit of dopamine I get when I feel I’ve nailed an outfit, and my best jolts come from something unexpected. Chances are, you already have something visually interesting in your closet to either lift an otherwise neutral outfit or create a “wrong” look that actually feels right.

In finding visual examples for this post, I realized I often choose a grounding color to build upon, which helps visually connect the dots of a textured, busy look. Lately, I’ve been gravitating toward red, which is wild because I avoided it like the plague for most of my life, but I frequently go back to my favorites: off-white and chocolate brown.

Look 1: sporty elements (tee & shorts) with “dressed up” contrast (silk-crepe sleep top & satin ballet flats) + calfhair bag, grounded in black & light brown/tan: vintage sleep shirt with tigers drawn on in traditional American tattooing style | my dad’s old shirt for his hospital tennis team | JuJu Vera Petra Shell necklace (no longer available in bronze) | nylon Prada shorts (texture #1), size XS or this season’s version; Rachel Comey calfhair tote (texture #2) | & Other Stories ballet flats (similar here)

Look 2: sporty elements (hat, jacket & bag) with feminine clash (nightgown & bag strap) and masculine element (workwear vest) + ponyhair flats, grounded in black & tan: ‘47 Brand A’s hat, mine is sold out but black is available | Adidas jacket | Levi’s workwear vest | vintage cotton nightgown, similar skirt here | Simone Rocha ponyhair flats (unfortunately had to return these because the embellishments fell off, so disappointing), these are an incredible alternative (texture #1) | My most worn, everyday bag by Simone Rocha (texture #2)

Look 3: texture on texture (suede, pleats, croc embossed leather) + length variation (long jacket & capris), grounded in black & chocolate brown: my grandmother’s suede coat (texture #1) | & Other Stories pleated top, Pleats Please here is similar (texture #2) | faux Chanel belt found at the flea market | vintage Real Tree cargos cut into capris, similar here | vintage croc-embossed mules from Paris, similar here, 7.5 & Manolos here in 39 (texture #3) | vintage suede Lucite handle bag from Screaming Mimi’s in NYC

Look 4: elevated fabric (sequins) with sporty/causal element (twill jacket) + feather brooch, grounded in chocolate brown: Zara jacket, sold out, here in L | ostrich feather brooch by me | consigned Milly sequin plaid skirt, a gorgeous Tory Burch alternative | Chanel slingbacks, 7.5 here, 38.5 and 40

A little practice of the methodology never hurt nobody. The first: simple cotton pieces (read: boring) get a little “oomph” from my tried-and-true raffia bag, the aforementioned Loeffler Randall shoes, and a pop of red. Unbuttoning the shirt very low is key to avoid looking mumsy: you could actually see a peek of my black bra underneath. I also went to the school How to Cuff Your Shirt by master , which will keep you from looking like a basic bitch.

The second is a more-is-more approach using the same shoes, clip and sunnies as above but completely changing the vibe. This feels the most true to my aesthetic and direction when getting dressed, and is (also) a copy of something I’ve worn before. This outfit could easily work by wearing just the t-shirt or with the top closed using Hollywood tape so as not to wear anything underneath it. The slightly structured, cleaner bag doesn’t take away from the clothing itself, and the subtle aubergine color compliments the brown skirt instead of being too matchy-matchy. For jewelry, I wear a pair of chunky gold mid-size hoop earrings almost daily that were my mom’s (she said they make her look old lol) and the pair below are a pretty close match. I always have on my late dad’s gold watch3 and rings on almost every finger. An organic beaded necklace layered with a little shine, again, creates a bit of contrast. I make all my own beaded necklaces and always go to Lizzie Fortunato for inspo.

“Maximalism” can be intimidating because there’s no real “formula” or “rule” for getting dressed (which is why I love it). When I need a starting point, I turn to texture. The term “high-low” doesn’t just apply to price, but also to the piece’s intended wearing occasion, and throwing those rules out the window creates tension and interest. I also firmly, firmly believe that anyone can pull off anything, you just have to believe it (cheesy and true). If nothing, I hope this was a feast for the eyes and a respite from today’s world. Thank you for reading!

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I have over 1.3K items saved on my TRR wishlist. There’s something about clicking “add to cart,” therefore labelling the item as “ON HOLD” that feels like a semi combative, yet thrilling, claim-staking ritual amongst anonymous internet shoppers. Will it be swept up by someone else when the annoying 20 minute bag hold timer counts down to zero? Or will it remain available, and inevitably sit in my wish list purgatory for weeks to come? There’s always a mix of both, and sometimes I actually buy something.

Subconsciously, I shop in themes. I didn’t realize this until recently, when I looked at my “obsessions”1 and thought, damn, that’s a lot of Herbert Levigne-esque shoes. Or wow, look at all those statement skirts begging to be paired with a graphic tee and kitten heel.

So today, friends, you get my midi skirt roundup. It’s quick, akin to a reading children’s picture book.2 They’re all a size medium because that’s my size, and I filter to M only, otherwise I get my hopes up on something that’s a size 2 and will barely fit over my thigh. Check the measurements though, because you never know. These are my actual selects, not stuff I’ve pulled for the sake of a post. Enjoy, and if you buy something, thank you for taking me out of my misery.

Starting off strong, this is what Hilary Duff was referring to when she sang, “this is what dreams are made of.”

A more affordable version, at $101. I love the way the sequin layout creates a pattern.

Everyone’s talking about arsenic green. Try this less deadly option, under $150.

How cute would this be with a baby tee and minimal leather sandal? Under $150.

Dries van Noten is the designer for a statement skirt. I love the pattern clashing and draping of this one, without it being a wrap style.

A velvet option with more gorgeous draping. I’d still wear this through spring, maybe as an of-the-moment pink and green pairing, and then save for fall.

Very 90s/2000s, it screams ~*People’s Choice Awards*~ back when people were still getting slimed.

Another evoking 90s/2000s vibes and under $150. I’d style this with an oversized vintage graphic tee and, you guessed it, a kitten heel. Maybe this pair for $45?

The sequins, color combo and high slit are to die for. I also love the sporty-ish waistband. Under $150.

I’m sorry, who is she? Turning heads when worn with these Louis Vuitton cherry red heels, that’s who.

Thanks for snacking!

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Substack is inundated with guides to Paris and as someone who needs to be chronically unique (complimentary), I was hesitant to share my own. However, circulating my recommendations via email chain isn’t serving me anymore, and I’d be remiss not to share my suggestions I’ve amassed over six trips. This guide was a true labor of love and took hours (many, many hours) to create; I hope when reading it, you feel as if Paris itself is reaching through your screen and giving you a double kiss on the cheek.

In this post, I introduced my ethos on travel and my desire to write about it through my lens, describing myself (and my audience) as “discerning creatives.” I can’t help but to want my inaugural guide to be about Paris, even though I’ve traveled elsewhere more recently. Pure, unbridled joy is strolling around the City of Light with a vague sense of where I’m going, stopping wherever I see fit and peeking through wrought iron gates to find the most gorgeous courtyards beyond reach. It’s a special kind of magic that I hope everyone gets to experience at least once in their lives.

Each of my forthcoming city guides will follow roughly the same format: practicalities, where to stay, eat, shop, and things to do. Allons-y!

• The Left and Right Bank refers to the side of the Seine you’re on, essentially viewing the city aerially from the east. Another way to think of it is that “right” is north and “left” is south.

• Paris is old, like really, really old, and the layout reflects it. Arrondissements are neighborhoods, or districts, are numbered 1-20, and abbreviated in French with an “e” at the end, instead of “th,” as you might expect in English. 1er (only the 1st is written 1er, eme is also used) starts at the Louvre and spirals outward, commonly referred to as in a snail (escargot) shape, until you land at the 20e.

• Like most cities, Paris takes cards and Apple Pay almost everywhere. However, cash is definitely preferred for a quick shot of espresso or pastry. Restaurants include a service charge (tip), but rounding up to the nearest €1-2 is a kind gesture; tipping 10% at a nicer restaurant is my usual move (also in cash).

• Do not engage with anyone trying to pull you in to a magic trick or anything similar on the street. You’ll lose money, or your wallet. I haven’t fallen for this, but have heard stories. I’d like to think this goes without saying for my smartie readers!

• If you’re able bodied, taking the Metro or walking is the way to get around Paris. It’s quick, efficient, and much less expensive than Uber. If you do need a car, my boyfriend was just there in February and said Bolt is the cheapest option. For the Metro, you can buy tickets with a credit/debit card or cash at kiosks at every station (pay attention to entrance signs that show you can buy a billet there), or you can get a Navigo pass at a major station and reload it. I have a Navigo that I keep in my passport holder and reload each trip.

• Depending on your comfort level with public transit, and how many bags you have, the train from Charles de Gaulle into the city is cheap, fairly easy, may not require more than one transfer and takes a little over 90 minutes. Google Maps will show you the way better than I can describe, and there are people to help at the stations near/at CDG. Alternatively, taking a cab or Uber (I haven’t tried Bolt yet!) is quick and convenient.

• To plan your day, stay within one arrondissement and then move to another. Doubling back is the worst! Depending how long you’re in Paris, you could also split your trip by the right and left bank. I’ve labeled all restaurants with their closest Metro stop, arrondissement number and name, and all shops are categorized by arrondissement name. I map everything out using Google Maps, including taking the Metro, and go from there.

• Lastly, using whatever bits of French you know will get you a long way. Most will immediately speak English to you, but trying (in my opinion) is a sign of respect.

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My preferred accommodation in Paris is an Airbnb, because I’m delusional and like to feel like I live there. For my first (adult) trip in 2013, I stayed at Hotel Taylor which is on a quiet, conveniently located street right near Thanx God I’m A VIP (more on that later) and the Metro. The rooms are tiny (per usual) but I can definitely recommend it. Last year, I stayed at a Renaissance Marriott property, coincidentally around the corner from Hotel Taylor. It had the standard corporate Marriott feel but got the job done. Unfortunately I don’t have any other hotel or boutique hotel recs. Of course, if you’re in a certain tax bracket, the only way to go is Ritz Paris (unaffiliated with the Ritz Carlton). It’s a life goal of mine to stay there - it will happen!

I’ve only stayed on the right bank but would love to stay in the Latin Quarter next time (aptly named because of the Sorbonne and nearby universities, where all the students were speaking Latin). For Airbnbs:

• I stayed here last year with a coworker; great spot with a nice large, open living space. The host doesn’t speak English and I, even though trying my hardest, hardly speak French, but we communicated via Spanish. Ofr. (again, more later) is around the corner, there’s a really interesting little atelier/office where a woman makes shoes out of rugs on the same residential street (she’ll sell them to you if you ask nicely) and an easy coffee shop a half a block away that won’t frown at you if you order your espresso for “take away” (although not advised in the general culture).

• Single room: this was my first experience staying in a room in an Airbnb and honestly, it was great. Alejandro’s place is teensy, and he crashes on the couch in the living room with a curtain acting as the door while you’re in the main bedroom. I stayed a few nights there solo, and then my friend joined; I don’t think we saw him for the five days we were there but he was helpful and responsive via WhatsApp. It’s pretty far north from the city central, in the 20th, but it was one of my favorite stays because it felt like I was living there. There was a local street market right outside the apartment, and the gorgeous Parc des Buttes-Chaumont was a short walk away. I wouldn’t have gone to the park if I was staying elsewhere, so I’m so glad I chose this spot.

• A superb location and great for two (apparently can fit three), I stayed here way back in 2016. Having access to a washing machine while traveling is definitely a plus! It was also about a 10 minute walk from the Metro and an easy direct shot (no transfers) train from Charles de Gaulle.

I’ll save you all the fifth-floor walkup with no fans where I stayed in July for Men’s Paris Fashion Week in 2017. Non, merci…

Mon dieu, the places to eat in Paris are endless - one of the many reasons why the city is so phenomenal! However, it can feel overwhelming, and nothing is worse than roaming around the city hungry, wondering which cafe is legit and which is a tourist trap. My number one, absolute must-visit restaurant is Frenchie Bar à Vins, the little sister to Michelin-starred Frenchie. My best friend studied abroad in Paris and introduced me, and I cannot recommend it enough. They don’t take reservations, but put your name in and grab a verre de vin at the bar to nurse while you wait outside or peruse for a cocktail spot nearby.

Reservations are always recommended if the spot takes them.

• Le Clown Bar: once the place in Paris, I was unable to get a reservation on two different trips. It’s since calmed down and is now more accessible, but is still incredible. About two years ago, a friend of mine was there and was nudged at the bar by a fellow diner to ask what he was eating. He turned on his stool and saw it was none other than Broad City icon, Ilana Glazer. Frequented by comedians and fashion people alike, Le Clown Bar is understated and yet high-brow chic: aka very Paris. Also, what was he eating, you may ask? The veal brain, duh. You must get it if you go. Between the belle epoque interiors and cutlery hidden in the tables, it’s a true gem. (Metro: Republique/Oberkampf, Arrondissement: 11e, Neighborhood: Popincourt)

• Le Grand Bain: fresh, seasonal vibes in a cozy, semi-industrial looking space. A Michelin-quality meal without the Michelin prices. (Belleville/20e/Belleville)

• Chez Janou: obviously you’ll want a classic, un-fussy French meal in a bistro while you’re there. The duck and escargot are delicious. (Chemin Vert/3e/Marais)

• Le Refuge des Fondus: this is not fine dining, let me be clear, but it is fun dining. This unassuming spot in Montmartre serves fondue on long red-and-white checkered picnic tables and you get two options for wine: red or white. You don’t, however, get a choice in how it’s served: in a glass baby bottle. The whole experience is ridiculous and I can’t recommend it enough. (Pigalle/18e/Montmartre)

• Le Petite Saint Paul: According to the timestamp on my phone, I had dinner here at 10:40pm (extremely late for me), and I was definitely solo. My food mission in Paris (and I always choose to accept it) is to eat as much escargot as possible. Bonus points for French onion soup and beef tartare. I played detective while looking through photos: I couldn’t remember the name of the spot, but thank goodness for geotagging, Google Maps, and someone else posting the exact same serving plate used for their escargot. I was nearby at my most favorite wine bar (La Belle Hortense, below) and got hungry and didn’t have a close by recommendation, which is what I’m trying to save you from… anyway, this place is solid. It’s zero frills but sometimes, you just want to eat some snails while tipsily watching drunk people make out all over each other (I could do without the last part but, that’s what happened). (Saint-Paul/4e/Marais)

• The Mamma fam: you’re in Paris, but you need a break from French food. I can understand…I guess. There’s a fantastic Italian restaurant group, serving up phenomenal bougee pizzas amongst gorgeous interiors, that’s a great alternative when you can’t have one more snail (speak for yourself). Ober Mamma is near Le Clown Bar, the closest Metro is Oberkampf, 11e, Popincourt. Mamma Primi is near Villiers, 17e, Batignolles (perfect for lunch before/after visiting Musée Nissim de Camondo, more on that below).

• Café Charlot seems to be a spot that’s always bustling with cool French kids. Their steak tartare can easily feed two, and the people watching is phenomenal. Stop here after perusing the gallery/store Empreintes and shopping your little heart out in the neighborhood. (Filles du Calvaire/3e/Marais)

• La Palette is a hit-or-miss according to Google, but I love it there. The beautiful, historical bar was an old haunt of Hemingway’s, but he never wrote about it so it’s not overrun by tourists. The mustard they serve with the duck will clear your sinuses. Also, they have the tiniest bathroom I have ever seen (complimentary). (Mabillon - but I recommend walking across the Seine instead! 6e, Left Bank, Monnaie close to the Latin Quarter)

• The amount of phenomenal bakeries in Paris cannot be understated, and I (personally) think it’s very hard to go wrong. Beware of insanely touristy spots, of course, but most places I’ve stopped into on a whim have not disappointed. Du Pain et des Idées, however, is worth a visit. Gorgeous lamination on the croissants (thanks for the vocabulary lesson, GBB) and even more beautiful interiors. (Jacques Bonsergent/10e/Canal Saint-Martin)

I don’t drink much and therefore have only three bar recommendations, but they’re solid:

• La Belle Hortense: I cannot begin to explain the place this little wine bar/bookstore holds in my heart. After wandering around all day, I paid it a visit, cliche-ly reading A Moveable Feast at the bar and drinking a pinot noir, as one does. An older gentleman sat down next to me and asked what I was reading; we got to talking, as he was in the neighborhood after going to his son’s show at a nearby gallery. He was a painter himself, and pulled up some of his work on his phone. They were rich and saturated, appearing lit from within. He then wrote me a little note in the back of my book. It’s one of my favorite memories of Paris. Afterwards, I found the aforementioned Le Petit Saint Paul and had a late dinner, having had a perfect solo travel experience in Paris. (Saint-Paul/4e/Le Marais)

• Little Red Door (near Cafe Charlot) is a speakeasy type joint with creative cocktails and a friendly staff. I recommend coming here for a drink and then moseying over to Le Clown Bar for some brain (or something more conventional on their menu). (Oberkampf or Filles du Calvaire/3e/Le Marais)

• Bar Hemingway: OK, this isn’t an experienced recommendation, because I’ve never been but am dying to go. Because of it’s history and, honestly, tourist status, it’s nearly impossible to get a table and therefore you must go right when it opens at 5pm. Brush up on your history of the bar here & here:

  This cupboard-sized bar is tucked into an unassuming corner of The Ritz Paris, but what it lacks in size it certainly makes up for in stature. The bar earned its name after Ernest Hemingway “liberated” it from the Nazis in 1944. The Ritz was used as a Nazi headquarters during the occupation of Paris and legend has it that Hemingway, then a war correspondent, accompanied soldiers to reclaim it. Once in, he immediately went up to the bar and ordered champagne for everyone.

(Madeline/1e/across from Place Vendôme)

My recommendations for coffee shops are both a caffeine hit and an activity. Most little bistros/cafes serve up a solid espresso, but these spots are particularly noteworthy:

• Antipublic Library: you know the feeling when you walk into a space and you know you’re not cool enough to be there? Antipublic Library is that place. The baristas are friendly enough, but probably because they pity you. Anyway, it’s great for people watching, a €10 iced coffee, and interior design envy (I spotted the exterior on an inspo board at work so, you know it’s legit). (Filles du Calvaire/3e/Le Marais)

• The opposite of Antipublic Library is Le Bone Appart, the most adorable, joyous little space filled with, you guessed it, DOGS! They sell teensy tiny wool berets for your pet for €24 and it is worth it. When we were there, a bb dachshund was having her first birthday: candle, cake, and “Happy Birthday” by Stevie Wonder playing over the speakers for the whole cafe to join in. What a gem of a place. (Saint-Paul/4e/Bastille)

• If you need a break from the bustle of the city, get an espresso from the cafe at the Petite Palais and sit in the garden (no ticket to the museum needed). It’s a tranquil spot to rest, read, journal, send a note via carrier pigeon, etc. (Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau/8e)

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Oh boy. My list is extensive, so I’m going to give each place a minimal description, for my time and yours. These are just the highlights, by neighborhood1. If I had only one to two days in Paris, I’d make sure to go to Thanx God I’m A VIP, Officine Buly, Killiwatch, and Brigette Tanaka (+ The Broken Arm if they’re open). My wishlist of stores I haven’t been to includes Rubirosa’s, a highly curated, vintage-esque space focusing on loungewear and shirts, the iconic Charvet, the colorful world of La Veste by , Sœur to finally get the pants recommended by and Bourgine, specifically for their mutton sleeve sweatshirt.

Right Bank

Republique

• Thanx God I’m A VIP: the most incredible vintage store I've ever been to: everything is organized by color. You can spend hours here! (Honorable croissant et espresso mention goes to Café Petite across the way, for when you need a post-shopping pick-me-up.) (vintage/men’s & women’s)

• The Next Door: minimalist/semi-hypebeasty concept store for men

• Ofr.: I think anyone creative either knows or would love this store: basically every magazine, ever, including rare editions. Gallery in the back. (vintage & contemporary)

Les Marais, north

• Temporarily closed at the time of writing, The Broken Arm is one of my favorite concept stores (avec coffee shop) in Paris. It’s a true gem and has the feel of being in someone’s home. I hope they reopen! (Contemporary, men’s & women’s)

• Empreintes is a collective space showcasing multiple French designer’s work, from jewelry to drinkware and incredible pottery. Fabulous place for a gift, very chic. (contemporary, home/jewelry)

• Officine Universelle Buly 1803: go when they open, there’s a line for a reason. Founded in 1803, it’s essentially an apothecary/perfumery you can shop, and it catapults you back in time. You can monogram almost everything, too! They reached cult status for their lip balm, but I personally love their rose perfume, dental floss (so specific) and Italian toothbrushes. Skip the boar hair brush, it makes my hair frizzy, even though it’s beautiful. (second location in the Latin Quarter; beauty)

• Ysé: my favorite lingerie store, affordable (contemporary, women’s)

• Merci: a must-visit! A multi-brand space with a cafe featuring a wall lined with books that opens to multiple levels of men’s, women’s, and homewares (contemporary)

• Kanelle Vintage: if you’re looking to live out a silky Jane Austen meets 1920s flapper boudoir fantasy, this is your spot (vintage, women’s)

• Open on Sundays: overwhelming vintage spot where you can find some hidden gems (vintage, men’s & women’s; Come on Eileen has multiple locations for honorable overwhelming vintage store mention)

• Tabio: my favorite socks, to rival Le Bon Shoppe; they also have two other locations (contemporary, men’s & women’s)

• As an American, I always hit up Arket (since we don’t have one in the U.S.), COS and & Other Stories (better assortment and prices), Adidas (better assortment), Sézane, American Vintage and Rouje, all in Le Marais.

Les Halles/12e

• La Galcante is like a museum of “paper” you can buy: prints, ballet programs from the 1800s, old Playboys, etc. I once got an photo of Jackie Kennedy that was stamped by the French Government of her leaving Dior. Iconic in a genuine, non-cheesy way. (vintage/antique periodicals)

1e/2e

• There’s not much around here boutique-wise (major designers are, though), but Killiwatch is worth going to on it’s own. A hybrid contemporary-vintage store, it’s huge and does a great job of showing trends and making it easy to shop. My favorite sunglasses are from Killiwatch (€20!) and I found the perfect vintage French workwear jacket in the back. (vintage, contemporary, antique/men’s & women’s)

• A 20 minute walk from Killiwatch is Brigette Tanaka, the most kitchy, unique “home goods” store ever. My best friend got me an organza tote that looks like a takeout bag from here - truly amazing pieces! Also great for gifts. (contemporary, accessories/home goods)

• Down on the Siene is the recently(ish) reopened Samaritaine, a mind-blowingly gorgeous department store in the Art Nouveau style. I’m not one for department stores, but Samaritaine is an exception. (contemporary, all)

Left Bank

Latin Quarter

• Shakespeare and Company is an institution and cannot be missed; it’s a spot that’s famous for a reason and worth the hype. The writers of the Lost Generation hung out here at length, borrowing books from the owner, Sylvia Beach, even though it is/was a store, not a library. Later in it’s history, the second owner, George Whitman, allowed 30+ struggling writers to sleep there at night if there was no where else to go. In the 1950s, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, the soon-to-be-owner of City Lights in San Francisco, wrote his thesis at Shakespeare & Co, becoming friends with Whitman. The lore is that Ferlinghetti and Whitman wanted to go back and forth to manage each other’s shops, but I don’t believed that ever happened. Today, there’s a City Lights sign above the entrance of Shakespeare & Co. It’s an incredibly special place and you must visit! Read more about it’s history here.

• Stop at the bouquinistes (book sellers) along both the left and right bank while you’re visiting, a truly Parisian experience

• If you’re having a bookish day, head to The Abbey Bookshop, which exclusively sells books in English (mostly Canadian titles/authors)

• Go read said book purchases at the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève (below), especially if it’s a rainy or snowy day

Saint-Germain-des-Prés

• The second location for Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is right next to the Dries Van Noten…

• Which is right next to a minimalist’s consignment/vintage heaven, a store called Preclothed (consignment/vintage, women’s)

• Maria de la Orden: contemporary clothing but with a clear vintage-design lens (women’s)

• Bellerose is a classic French brand, their shirting is unique with a twist. My former boss is French and uses their room spray in her office - it’s a favorite place to be at work. (contemporary, women’s and men’s)

• Assouline is known for their “destination” pop art coffee table books, but they have so much more. Stop in for a feast for the eyes.

• A block down, Taschen gives them a run for their money

• Kilo Shop is famous in Paris - you buy clothing by the kilo! I like this location best. (vintage, women’s and men’s)

• Les 3 Marches de Catherine B: you must make an appointment to shop at this little treasure trove of vintage designer items. I got a pair of Chanel earrings from here years ago; tiny spot, worth the visit. (vintage & contemporary women’s designer accessories)

• Simrane: Homewares, clothing and accessories inspired by India with a Parisian twist (contemporary, women’s & home)

• Ines de la Fressange: Classic, Parisian chic staples (contemporary, women’s)

• La Petite Etoile carries chic, borderline-organic looking pieces with great color stories (contemporary, women’s)

The Flea Market

Les Puces de Saint-Ouen (Les Puces) is the most incredible antique market on the planet. My grandmother used to go in the 50s and 60s, buy furniture and paintings, and ship them back to Chicago. While I haven’t done that (yet), I have had some incredible experiences, like viewing racks of archival Margiela in an attic and buying a pair of rare “Made in France” Levi’s 501®s. If at all possible, hire a knowledgeable guide (this will take some sleuthing online). A friend of my mentor took me around and I can’t imagine going without him.

There’s no shortage of things to do in Paris and, for the most up-to-date, niche, fun recommendations, make sure you visit the website Messy Nessy. So many of my favorite spots are courtesy of Vanessa and her team, and they can even help you plan unique experiences while you’re in town. A true treasure trove of information!

Museums

Paris is arguably the place for museum lovers. While I love the historical aspect of museums, they’re not the center of my trip like they are for so many others. These are my favorites that I’ve visited multiple times:

• The Louvre cannot be missed. Sorry. Go as early as possible to skip the crowds, or at the end of the day (they’re very serious about kicking people out when they close, but you’ll still have time to go through both gift shops, which is v important). Napoleon III’s apartments are my favorite part of the museum, but I’m also partial to the Venus de Milo (I have a tattoo of her on my forearm). Finally, you have to see the Mona Lisa, if not just once. Her eyes really do follow you around the room…

• As a big fan of the Impressionists, the Musée d'Orsay is a must-go. It’s in an old train station and is a relatively quick, but very fulfilling, visit.

• I absolutely love, deep in my soul, an old mansion-turned-museum. Musée Rodin scratches that itch, but the main draw is the incredible garden filled with Rodin’s work. Musée de Montmartre is the perfect place to go on a lovely day: you’ll visit the gardens, as painted by Renoir, catch a view of the Sacré-Coeur over the Clos Monmartre vineyards, and see the studio of Suzanne Valadon (which will make you want to pick up painting immediately). It seems like this museum is relatively unknown and hopefully it stays that way, as you can wander the property practically alone, feeling like you live there. My favorite of all mansion museums, though, is Musée Nissim de Camondo. This place is my Roman Empire. I don’t want to share too much, as it should be uniquely discovered by each person who visits, but it’s…incredible. When in Turkey this last November at another mansion museum, I noted that some of their photographs were from the collection at de Commondo. A small, antiquarian loving world. Unfortunately it’s closed until 2027, but that’s approaching sooner than I’d like to admit…

• La Galerie Dior is now open; I haven’t been because I saw the majority of the collection at the Brooklyn Museum a few years back, but I know it’s a must for any fashion lover.

Landmarks

• The ceiling, painted by Chagall, and the staircases at the Palais Garnier (Opera House) are worth a visit alone. When I visited, they were also showcasing intricate, couture-worthy ballet costumes.

• If it’s nice outside, grab a bottle of wine, a baguette, cheese, and head to the steps of the Sacré-Cœur for the most incredible sunset view of Paris. The surrounding areas are touristy, but it’s worth pushing through the neon lights.

• Do you need to go up the Eiffel Tower? No. Should you absolutely see it? Yes. And if you do want to get close, my same advice follows from Sacré-Cœur: get a bottle of wine, some snacks, and post up on the lawn. If you’re there in summer, it’s truly a delight to watch the sun set at 10pm+ and then see the twinkling lights of the Tower come on.

• I haven’t been to Notre Dame since before the fire, but I remember being blown away when I was there in 2013. It is, at the very least, worth walking by while on your way to the other side of the river. If you do decide to visit, go early, as the lines are out of control!

• Sainte-Chapelle is called “The Jewel Box” and once you see the incredible stained glass from inside, you’ll understand why.

• Words cannot describe how utterly insane Versailles is, from the scale to the opulence to the beauty of the gardens. If you have time, it’s absolutely worth a day (or two). Don’t miss The Grand Trianon while you’re there, which includes the Queen’s Hamlet (a mini village, so Marie Antoinette could “experience provincial life”) and the Petit Trianon, essentially a mini Versailles. The train ride there is short (about an hour) and convenient. Midnight costume balls are thrown there every year; it’s a goal of mine to attend in full 17th century regalia. If you’re really going for the full experience, you can stay on the property in one of 14 rooms at Le Grand Contrôle. Your $2000/night stay gets you private access to the Hall of Mirrors, a golf cart to explore the grounds, and personalized pajamas (to name a few amenities).

• The opposite of Versailles (yet, kind of morbidly related…?) is the Catacombs. I haven’t gone subterranean yet, but when I do, I plan to join a secret society for dinner amongst the skeletons. How? A Messy Nessy connect, of course. Seriously, reach out to that team.

The Art of the Stroll

There’s no better place to be a flâneur/flâneuse than in Paris.

• As previously mentioned, take a stroll along the Seine, enjoy the view, and pick up an antique book or two from the bouquinistes.

• You are not allowed to leave Paris without sitting in an iconic green chair with a book at the Jardin du Luxembourg. Period. While you’re there, make sure you see the Medici Fountain.

• As previously mentioned, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, in the northern part of the city, is a tranquil slice of heaven.

• The Marché des Enfants Rouges (I start at 37 Rue Charlot) is the oldest food market in Paris. Stroll and oggle how the French make produce look sophisticated, and grab a bite at the food hall before you leave.

• If it’s raining, a visit to the many passages (covered shopping arcades built in the 1800s) is the cure. Start at Passage Verdeau then head to Passage Jouffroy (go to the miniature furniture shop called Pain d’Epices). Cross over the busy section to the Passage des Panoramas, which is the oldest of the arcades. If you need provisions, rest your feet and let your appetite take over at Stern Ristorante (Italian). Exit des Panoramas on the other end on rue Saint-Marc. Head south down the rue Vivienne for a few minutes until you arrive at Galerie Vivienne. If the rain lets up, walk for 10 minutes east to the Passage due Grand Cerf. (I cannot take credit for this itinerary, it’s all Messy Nessy, but I had this long note saved in my Google Maps, now sharing it with you!)

• Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève is a 19th century library with a huge arched ceiling reading room. It’s open to explore solo or read, but according to their site, there’s a free tour in English at 3:30pm on Saturdays. I haven’t visited yet, but it’s on the top of my list.

This guide, as terribly cheesy as it sounds, is my version of a love letter to Paris. My sincere hope is that you find this helpful in some way. Please share it with anyone you know who’s traveling to the City of Light, and come back for more of my city guides. À bientôt (see you soon).

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Leona Waller

If every American did 3 of these 5 things, ICE would be stopped in its tracks.

We’ve been watching our government slide towards fascism for the last year. It’s been consistently concerning, but also not quite concerning enough. It’s registered for many people on the level of “I should keep an eye on this” but below “I should put aside other priorities and focus on this…

Read more

7 months ago · 8967 likes · 512 comments · Leona Waller

This war is the administration’s new distraction and we cannot forget what’s happening on our home front.

However, if you’re here for the listicle (you can read both, I highly recommend reading and actioning on points in Leona’s post) then let’s get into it.

IRL, I’m constantly recommending things to people; hopefully not as “unsolicited advice,” but in a “this has helped me or changed my day for the better, you must know about it” kind of way. I am, for better or worse, a consumer through and through. I consume media (Fashion and reality TV, mostly) and things, and through all this consumption, I feel like an expert on some level.

Everything on this list is under $200 (most under $50) and all of them make great gifts. While this isn’t a gift guide (thank god we’re out of that time of year), it is a good one to save for birthdays or when the holidays roll around. In my opinion, the best gifts are either unique and something they wouldn’t buy themselves, or utilitarian and fill a hole they didn’t know they had. We’re obviously in the latter territory here.

While some of you reading this know me in the Real World™, the vast majority don’t, and I need to gain your trust. I hope this extensive listicle will play a small part in gaining it, and that you’ll treat yourself1 to something. The categories are: skincare and beauty, sleep necessities, travel, and apparel and accessories.

Skincare

Arguably the largest section of this post, skincare & beauty is a funny one to me because I always skip these sections in other writer’s articles! If I were to analyze that, I’d say it’s because I’ve found what works for me and am not open to much else, which is the perfect segue into my recs. In no particular order…

COSRX Lip Sleep Mask: my friend L clued me in that you don’t have to use a lip sleep mask only at night, and my mind was blown. I’m such a rule follower. I’ve repurchased this 3x times: it’s one of the only lip treatments that keeps my lips fully hydrated. It does have a slight shine to it, but it’s not sticky.

Avène Cold Cream Lip Balm: if a tube/stick form is your preferred lip balm medium, look no further. My best friend gifted me this years ago and I’m forever grateful. It’s expensive in the States ($19), so whenever you’re traveling, pick up a few!

Skyn ICELAND Eye Patches: what separates these eye patches from the pack is their felt backing. The felt isn’t on the skin side, but helps the patches stay put and keeps them from sliding down. Plus, they just work and leave under eye skin looking totally refreshed. I originally found these at a beauty industry supply store in NYC and haven’t looked back since.

Dr. Wu Acid Serum: this one is a bit hard-to-buy and niche; I found it in a Mannings pharmacy in the Hong Kong airport last July, and during a layover this year I literally bought 6 bottles. When I ran out last year I tried to find a replacement and truly nothing compares. This is a gentle peel (I recommend the 8%) that I use about 4-5x/week. My pores have never been smaller and clearer, and my skin is so soft. No redness, no irritation. I hope the link I shared works in the U.S., because this is a holy grail product!

Earthen Instant Peel: when you don’t want to pay for a facial (or don’t have time), look no further than this peel-in-a-box (gentle, not Samantha in Sex & The City). Take an extra 10 minutes during an Everything Shower and apply in sections on your face and emerge with new skin. NYC peeps, you can get this at Zitomer (UES).

Ursa Major Golden Hour Recovery Cream: for 4 years I used a luxe, all-natural moisturizer that I absolutely loved, but the price kept going up. It was always expensive ($100/1.5oz) but it’s risen to $150, and I just can’t do it. The Golden Hour Recovery Cream has become my replacer, and while it’s still not cheap, it’s absolutely worth it. I use this year-round, morning and night. It’s thick AF but don’t let that fool you: it’s not greasy and is super hydrating. It also comes in a travel size if you want to try it first before committing (which is what I did).

Trader Joe’s Sunscreen (light orange box): unfortunately not linkable, but the TJ’s sunscreen is the perfect Supergoop dupe and is under $10. It has a matte finish and feels light to the touch. I’ve bought all the French sunscreens while abroad and I have to say, this one is still my favorite.

Eucerin Eczema Lotion: truly unsexy, truly works. I’ve tried fancy stuff, lotion with Retinol in it, medicated potions…this one wins, every time.

Waleda Hand Cream: my coworker introduced me to Waleda and OMFG, never going back to anything else. It’s thiccc and moisturzes as promised, with a subtle spa-y scent.

Ben Nye Setting Spray: if I’m wearing makeup, I do not leave the house without spraying this on my face. Setting sprays from Sephora are an actual joke compared to this stuff. To illustrate how powerful it is, I found this at the same NYC supply store as the eye masks, and this is what’s used to set Broadway makeup. While it’s heavy duty, it doesn’t clog my pores.

Nail Glue: I wear hard gel nails (no shade to ’s elite nail theory) but I’ve always had long nails and can’t imagine life without them. Said life can be rough, and sometimes they get a “hairline fracture” that needs to be patched up. Enter this nail glue: I keep one in my work desk, one in my purse, one in my makeup bag and one in my craft drawer. Yes, I use this instead of superglue and am never without it.

Immunity Vitamins: not skincare, but more important. For years, I never took any vitamins or supplements, and I’d also get sick (literally) every 4-6 weeks. Now I’m only sick every 6 months or so (a huge win for me) and I credit these vitamins. Definitely take them with food, though: you’ve been warned!

Pre + Probiotic: gut health is linked to skincare, no? While I definitely haven’t unlocked WTF is wrong with my stomach, these vitamins absolutely help and I can tell a difference when I haven’t taken them. Plus, they’re stable, so you don’t need to refrigerate, like other probiotics (key when traveling!).

Beauty

I wear the same makeup, every day, and haven’t changed my look for years. Not including the aforementioned Ben Nye setting spray, I use only 5 products and I’ve repurchased them all.

Kosas Revealer (aka Concealer): I stopped wearing foundation years ago, opting just for concealer under my eyes and along my nose. Unlike other concealers, this product doesn’t cake and truly does “brighten.” Not sure how they do it, but I’m a forever fan. (Shade 02W, pale AF.)

MOB Beauty Bronzer: a little goes a long way here. I wear bronzer everyday because otherwise I look like a sickly Victorian child. This requires buffing and blending since it’s so concentrated, but the shade is great (I use 37) and like all my makeup, it’s cruelty-free. The brand was founded, in part, by the former founding chemist of MAC. Legit.

Tower 28 Balm (blush): I layer this on top of my bronzer using a sponge applicator to further pull me away from said sickly face. It also works as a lip color! I use “After Hours.”

Kosas Eyebrow Pencil: to ensure my eyebrows don’t disappear off my face, I must pencil them in. Every. Day. I use shade Neutral Medium Brown.

Ilia Mascara: my 7-minute makeup routine is finalized when applying Ilia Mascara. My friend D tuned me in to only using the travel size, because it ensures your mascara is always “fresh” when applying. I have tried, no joke, at least 30 mascaras in my life and this is definitely my favorite. It makes my lashes long, strong, and down to… you (and Sir Mix-a-Lot) know.

Sleep Necessities

Items to make my favorite past time more successful.

Silke London Bonnet: if you’re not sleeping in a silk bonnet, you’re doing something wrong. Sorry, but it’s true. Are they sexy? No. Do they make your hair sexy, shiny, and bouncy? YES. (And no, sleeping on a silk pillowcase doesn’t have the same effect.) They key here is that the bonnet is silk, not satin. Satin is a type of weave, made of polyester, whereas silk is a material, made from silkworms. I’ve tried other silk bonnets and always come back to Silke London’s because they stay on. The elastic does eventually stretch (I use it every night, after all) but they’re always worth it to me to repurchase. I buy a new one probably every 18 months, and you can always wait for a Black Friday sale to buy. When you sign up, you get 10% off. GET ONE!

Noise Cancelling Earplugs: my apartment building was built 125 years ago and unfortunately, the noise is an indication (along with not having an outlet in my bathroom, can you believe?!). I had a horrendously noisy neighbor for years and slept with my Airpods in, but a) they die after 4 hours and b) that has to be bad for my brain. I’ve heard good things about Loops earplugs, but gave these cheapies a try and have been a super satisfied customer. They stay in and block an unbelievable amount of noise. My boyfriend’s apartment is newer and much quieter, but he snores, so I always bring these with me…

The Hatch Alarm: speaking of my boyfriend, he gave me a Hatch alarm when we first started dating (to help with said noisy neighbor) and I fucking love this thing. I had a standard noise machine and thought this was unnecessary, but he was right! (Further proof that the best gifts are the ones you won’t get yourself.) I don’t pay for the extra features and only use the brown noise and sunrise alarm, and I absolutely love it. I turn it up so I can hear it through my earplugs because I like the sound, and the gentle light wakeup is so much better than my iPhone. (When I’m traveling and don’t have the Hatch with me, I play this track; highly rec for sleeping on planes, too.)

Travel

The international terminal at SFO is my happy place. These are the essentials I don’t get on a plane without.

Portable Fan: I get overwhelmed in heat really easily, and this little fan has genuinely saved me from heat stroke/passing out/turning into a puddle multiple times. It has a neck strap and a clip, so you can clip it to your neckline and have it blow down your shirt if needed (so attractive, I know).

Portable Charger: slim, lightweight, and with multiple outputs, this portable charger is the best of the 4+ I’ve tried. It holds several charges, and I don’t leave my apartment (much less the country) without it!

Neck Pillow: I’ve had mine since 2017 (holy crap) and mine doesn’t have the fancy attachment for the back of your seat, but regardless, it’s incredible. This pillow has been around the world with me several times, and I haven’t considered replacing it in 9 years. That has to say something, no?
*I also travel with a butt cushion, LOL. If you’re not flying business and you’re on a long haul flight, your tailbone will get sore. I can’t find my exact one on Amazon anymore, but I highly recommend buying one!

Vacuum Storage Bags: how do I fit a neck pillow and a butt pillow in my carryon, you ask? Why, vacuum storage bags, of course! Is it awkward to pull out the pump at the end of the flight and suck out the air from the bag in a tiny seat space? Yes. Worth the embarrassment? Also, yes. Plus, obviously, I use these for packing clothes, under-bed storage, etc.

Foot Rest: I’m 5’3, and my feet don’t comfortably touch the ground when flying, and it kills my lower back. Enter: the travel foot rest! It has a hard, flat bottom so your feet don’t stack on each other, and loops around your seatback tray. A true game changer in economy!

Handheld Steamer: after using this at the Ritz Carlton in Santa Barbara, I had to have one, and my boyfriend delivered. While not always practical for carryon travel (depends how much you’re packing), this steamer is handheld and travel-sized. It’s a total powerhouse and worth every penny if you can’t stand wrinkled clothes. I don’t have a regular-sized one for home; I just use this!

Hand Towel: no link here, any small terrycloth or washcloth works. I picked mine up in Tokyo in 2017 and always carry it with me. Hand dryers are gross and are actually less sanitary than paper towels, and not every bathroom has towels. Also works in a pinch if you get a little sweaty and need to literally towel off…

Summer Fridays Jet Lag Kit: I’m that person that does a full skincare routine on a long haul flight, and I will not be shamed for it. This kit has it all, and has saved my skin multiple times from harsh airplane air and over-airconditioned hotel rooms. Always use hand sanitizer before you apply on a plane, and remember to cleanse with a makeup remover cloth prior to starting! (This kit is also great for hospital stays, if you ever find yourself or a loved one in that position.)

Clothes & Accessories

These aren’t the fun, niche, chronically unique pieces I love to wear, but they are tried and true essentials for me that I’d be remiss not to share.

COS White Tee: my former boss, K, recommended these tees to me and honestly, what the actual hell was I wearing before?! I’ve tried Hanes, Rag & Bone, Reformation, Madewell, AE, the list goes on, and nothing compares. So much so that I now own 6 of these, since I wear one almost every day as a base layer (and I have 2 in black). They’re a great mid-weight: not sheer but not too heavy when it’s hot outside. They’re the perfect meet-and-greet (your waistband) length, and the sleeves don’t hug my arm. They look expensive, but are $45 (which may be expensive to some for a t-shirt, but is incredibly worth it to me). They run true to size (I’m a medium). I can’t recommend these tees enough.

Anine Bing Tank Top: ok, $95 is arguably expensive for a tank top, but I bought this in 2021 and have worn it (easily) 100+ times. I can wear it without a bra and not feel exposed, and it holds me in in the right way. The cut doesn’t allow for wearing a regular bra, which is a downside, but otherwise, I love it. It’s also remained a true, saturated black, despite washing it a zillion times, and it hasn’t stretched out. A workhorse.

Levi's 501® 90s Ankle: I’m definitely biased because I’m the Merchandising lead for women’s premium denim at Levi’s, but the 501® 90s Ankle is truly my favorite fit, ever. I work on dozens of jeans a year, and I try them all on, and nothing compares. They’re the perfect mid-rise, right below the belly button, and an easy straight leg that’s not too wide or slim. They come in a heavier-weight, more classic denim (14oz, this is what I wear), lightweight (12oz, more in-line with what everyone else sells) and Selvedge, if you fancy. Since I’m short, I go with the ankle length, but also have a few regular length pairs. I prefer these true-to-size, but you can size down and still get the look. They’re 100% cotton so they’ll give a little throughout the day. To me, this fit is the best alternative to vintage Levi’s. I have 10 pairs…and counting.

Solomon XT-6 Sneakers: I resisted the XT-6s for a few years because I thought they were a flash-in-the-pan trend. I was wrong! They’re here to stay, and it’s because they’re comfortable, practical, and cool AF. The key is to get them with Gore-Tex, so they can be worn in the rain. I’ve gone on desert hikes*, traversed Paris, and run through puddles in these and can’t recommend them enough. They do scuff easily, which annoyed me at first, but I’ve gotten over it. I have the safari color, and they’re true to size. It’s rare to find a sneaker that looks great with workout clothes, wide leg Rachel Comey pants and dresses. These are it, a true Renaissance Man of footwear.
*Nature walk

Black One-Piece: I’ve always worn bikinis because I look like a child gymnast in one-pieces. I decided to give this Andie Henley-style suit a try last year before a trip to the UAE, and I couldn’t be happier. It’s so flattering, holding me in without being restrictive, and the snaps allow you to show a little cleave (or not). It’s super cute with a white poplin skirt as a top, and dries quickly. I chose the medium-coverage, regular torso, non-ribbed fabric option. It makes me look like a chic adult, hooray!

Sports bra, leggings & tank (92% cotton): I worked retail for lululemon for nearly 2 years…11 years ago. I still have some of the product from when I worked there, but I have to say, these pieces from Amazon (blarg) give them a run for their money at a quarter of the price. The longline bras and pocket leggings are great, too. I do SoulCycle, lifting, and the occasional Pilates reformer class in these and have no complaints. I know a lot of Fashion Substack is moving toward 100% cotton and all-natural workout gear, but I want my sweat wicked, not just sitting there. I’ll finish by saying these are also significantly better quality than my leggings from Set Active, which pilled almost immediately, plus their sizing is off. Sizing with the CRZ product is true to size, and you can easily make a set, if you’re into that, by searching the color you like in their “store.” I wear a medium.

Pepper Bras & Aerie Bralettes: as a card-carrying member of the IBTC, I’ve tried many bras and Pepper is by far the best for everyday wear. (I was sold on EBY until 2 of my clasps literally came unglued, once at work! Thank god I had a sports bra at my desk, and no, they didn’t refund me for the QC issue.) Aerie seamless are my favorite for lounging around, great for all cup sizes. Both run true to size (medium).

Thigh Society Shorts: I cannot stand the feeling of my thighs touching. I wear these shorts under anything where that will happen: baggy pants, shorts, dresses, etc. The 7” is the ideal length, in my opinion, and I think the “cooling” fabric works best. They are absolutely worth the price. I wear a S/M.

Le Bon Shoppe Socks: high-quality socks make all the difference, especially with ballet flats, loafers, and an open-toed heeled sandal. They make the outfit! I’ve slowly started replacing my cheapies with the cotton-blend Her Socks from Le Bon Shoppe. I have two each of the desert rose & pesto colors, and wear my classic red pair regularly. Other heavy hitters are black, cobalt, peacock, dark brown and light blue with a subtle shine. They’re all great, you can’t go wrong!

Baublebar Tennis Bracelet: secret’s out. The bracelet I wear with my late dad’s gold Rolex is…not diamonds! Of course it doesn’t have the same shine factor as a diamond bracelet, but for $100, it’s deceptively close. I wear the sterling silver version, 2mm stones, 6.75 size.

Italian Resin Claw Clip: if my apartment were on fire, I’d probably grab this clip (both to save it and pull my hair back). It’s made of the most exquisite, hardcore resin and my hair holds all day with it in. It doesn’t scratch and just looks luxe. I have the red and definitely need to add another color soon. Plus, it comes in the most gorgeous packaging, perfect for a gift or treat for yourself.

Ossa Crossbody Chain & Case: my exact one is sold out, but I can’t speak highly enough of this chain and case combo. The case is clear (as I like them) with hefty metal attachments to easily snap the chain off and on (otherwise, I’d just make my own). The chains are like jewelry, and even when I’m wearing something with pockets, I love to wear mine to keep my phone accessible. Although expensive (I got mine as a gift from my mom) I can absolutely attest to the quality and would spend the money on another.

Congratulations, you made it to the end! My sincere hope is that if you purchase something on this list, you love it as much as I do! I’ll also add, I just started my ShopMy profile upon writing this, so if you buy through a link, I may earn a little commission. Until next time…

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I naturally gravitate towards a city destination, although I’ve had some incredible relaxing trips (my most recent was to the Al Wadi Desert, north of Dubai). At this stage in my life, cities are also the easiest to access, since I typically do trips shorter than two weeks. I’m hoping to do Edinburgh and the wilderness of Scotland next summer, which would nicely blend the two.

I travel to shop, eat, and learn. The vibe is always “luxury within reason,” usually through purchases and a few meals, and avoiding as many tourist traps as possible. Traveling with a sartorial lens is important to me: I love to be inspired by city full of fashionable people, architecture, or culinary experiences, but I also know I’m not dropping several grand on a private tour of Chanel’s atelier. There’s a blend of high-low that’s present in both my personal style and how I travel; you won’t catch me in a hostel, either. Education is a huge piece of this, and my favorite “travel prep” is listening to a podcast or reading a book about the destination before I step off the plane. To me, recalling a bit of information I read while finally getting to visit a certain place (like the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul) is it’s own form of nerdy magic. I’ve always wanted to be the “eccentric aunt that travels the world,” collecting stories, trinkets, and learning that we are all, in fact, more similar than we are different.

My “brand” of travel seems to be one that hasn’t been nailed down yet, requiring hours of trawling the internet, so I’m here to share my research and advice for those of you that travel similarly. It’s not all luxury, and it’s not all budget. I care about what I’m wearing and where I’m shopping, but that’s not the only focus and I’m not made of money. Food is important to me, and I want a combo of fine dining and a locals cash-only spot. I’m sure there are a zillion Travel writers on Substack, but to me, none have the niche content I’m looking for. So, let’s get started.

Where to stay

Boutique hotels and Airbnbs, always.

Nothing turns me off more than a big, corporate hotel (The Ritz Carlton and The Four Seasons are the exception). My first instinct when booking a trip is to stay at an Airbnb, because I’ll get to experience a part of the city that’s likely off the beaten path and will make me feel like I actually live where I’m visiting. The best Airbnbs are people’s homes, and although rare these days, I’ve stayed in two exceptional apartments in Paris and Copenhagen in the 18 months. I try to find a spot that has a homey or clear design aesthetic and is in a convenient neighborhood/not in a high-traffic area. Safety and quiet are obviously important, so I always read reviews and will message a host if I have questions.

If my destination doesn’t offer quite what I’m looking for on the Airbnb front, I default to boutique hotels or smaller properties owned by larger chains. In my experience, the right boutique hotel is often in a historical building, has great interior design, and a friendly staff. Some recent favorite stays were the Bank Hotel in Stockholm and Hotel Mercier in Amsterdam.

A boutique hotel can be a truly incredible experience: I’m convinced Heaven on Earth is Sri Lanka’s Lunuganga, the estate formerly owned by the “founder” of modern tropical architecture, Geoffrey Bawa, now turned into an otherworldly escape from Colombo complete with sprawling gardens, an infinity pool, the most kind people and a lesson in creativity.

The reality of city travel is that wherever I stay is more of a crash pad, so while I want to be comfortable, I’m not going to spend a huge amount on accommodation. One day, I’ll check Ritz Paris off my list, but for now, Airbnbs and smaller hotels are the target.

Where to shop

Vintage, local brands/boutiques, and markets

Mall culture and department stores are really not my thing (but ironically, are a huge part of my job in corporate Fashion). If it’s part of the shopping experience of a particular culture, I’ll absolutely check it out, but it’s not where I gravitate.

Vintage is a tricky one, as it’s become mainstream and a lot of sellers are featuring American vintage. While these stores are often aesthetically pleasing, I don’t need to be shopping for Made in USA leather jackets while I’m in Japan (a blasphemous statement to a specific cohort of people). What I’m looking for are pieces from the region that I can’t get anywhere else. A well-loved kimono in Tokyo. A vintage cotton nightgown found in Amsterdam. A faded blue French chore coat in Paris. A silk Turkish kaftan made from antique yardage in Istanbul (Bode wishes). I love a historical garment, and hunting for unique vintage or antique pieces while traveling brings me joy. Consignment stores also fall into this category, especially in major fashion cities. The finds can be absolutely incredible (I still think about a Cecilie Bahnsen number I passed up on in Copenhagen). To me, something I can wear is the ultimate souvenir!

Local brands

Even though we have so much of the world at our fingertips via the internet, there’s nothing like visiting IRL. I do a lot of research before I travel to learn what the city/area is known for, or if there’s an exceptional store experience that stands out above the rest. XINÚ Perfumes in Mexico City has been hands-down my most memorable store visit in the last five years; I’ve gone back three times over separate trips and wear their Ummo scent daily, layered with the light rose perfume from one of my other favorite stores, Officine Universelle Buly in Paris. (The girls who know, know, since their monogrammed lip balm reached cult status a few years back.) Officine Buly has been around since 1803 and their store still looks like it, allowing me to feel like I’m time-travelling while shopping.

This is just the tip of the iceberg, and I plan to share all my favorites in upcoming guides, but I can’t understate the importance of shopping locally instead of defaulting to Zara.

Markets

My #1 rule: if you’re going to a major market, hire a guide. These spots are often a city hub, and are an incredible way to get a crash course in the local culture. You can, of course, do it yourself, but oftentimes stalls look the same and it’s difficult to discern what’s legitimate and what’s pushed at tourists. Guides know where to take you and can help you negotiate pricing, especially if you don’t speak the language. However, being discerning about a guide is imperative. Don’t just sign up for the first listing you see on Trip Advisor: that’s falling into the tourist trap itself. Like accommodations, hiring a guide depends on where you’re traveling. I’ll share more of what I know in specific city guides.

Food market shopping is not to be skipped. Even if you aren’t buying anything, there’s nothing like seeing fresh, local ingredients with signage in a foreign language and currency to really center yourself in the moment. A 300+ pound tuna at Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo and papayas twice the size of my head in Guatemala are memories I’ll never forget.

Learning about what an area is known for textile-wise is another way for me to connect with the history, culture, and sartorial root of wherever I’m visiting. I love searching for textiles and beads; for other creatives, this could be musical instruments, cooking knives, paints, etc. Visiting both a cotton hand-loom factory and small silk factory in Sri Lanka was incredible, and when I make it to Austria, I’ll definitely be buying lace. I’ve spent hours in the garment district of Mexico City with a friend I met on my first trip there, weaving between huge bolts of fabric that stand upright like a magical forest. While this isn’t a part of every trip for me, it’s something I absolutely love to do and it makes me feel more connected to wherever I’m visiting.

Where to eat

Just like my personal style, the mixing of high-low is important here. I’ve had Michelin meals, street cart dinners, and everything in between. Shopping (obviously) and food are where I spend my money on travel, and having a solid plan of where to go, with wiggle room for finding spots while I’m there, is imperative. There are few things worse than being in an incredible foreign city and feeling too overwhelmed by options (or tired from the day) and ending up at a crappy spot. Not on my watch!

I don’t need every meal to be a three-hour, multicourse experience. I love to pepper in fine dining, but without eating in the mid-to-lower range, you’re really missing out on where the majority of locals are going and some innovative dishes. I’m not a big drinker, so this is less of a factor for me while I’m traveling, but my favorite “bar” is La Belle Hortense in Paris: a bookstore and wine bar open until 2am. A painter struck up a conversation with me when I was there last, showed me his stunning work (he was stopping in after his son’s gallery show) and wrote me a note in the back of my copy of A Moveable Feast that I was reading at the bar. Sounds like a movie, huh?

Immersion!

A splash of history

I’m not one for a modern art museum, but a palace or historical mansion-turned-museum is my absolute favorite. This definitely comes from my nostalgia for a time I never lived, and I love being able to step into a house and imagine what it was like at it’s peak. Musée Nissim de Camondo in Paris was a standout for me, taking my breath away, from the staff kitchens to the grand salons upstairs. While not a “grand historical mansion,” visiting Georgia O’Keeffe’s home in New Mexico is high on the list.

Although full of tourists, big, famous museums live up to the hype and are a must-do when visiting a major city (my criteria being that it’s not contemporary art). The Louvre and the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam have been my favorite, with the Rijksmuseum coming out ever-so-slightly on top because of it’s incredible library and collection of historical clothing. Napoleon III’s apartments at the Louvre, though, really can’t be beat.

One thing is for sure, the fatigue after a museum is real, and I won’t plan a white-tablecloth dinner or late reservation after a full day of the “museum shuffle” because I know I’ll be drained.

Landmarks and Guided Tours

Hopefully this is a no-brainer, but visiting what an area is “known for” is always critical. I usually try to see landmarks/etc. at the beginning of my trip, like dunking myself into the cultural water to get an immediate feel for the place. This helps me ground myself in where I am and provides further context for the rest of my time there, often giving me ideas for additional things to do that I hadn’t planned beforehand.

This is another area where, depending on location, I’ll hire a guide. I like a small group or one-on-one setting: no “hop on, hop off” bus situations for me, please. My best experiences with guides were this year in Galle, Sri Lanka, and Istanbul; I also loved my ghostly tour guide in New Orleans a few years back (I’m into that kind of stuff!). When you find the right one, a guide can be like the Fairy Godmother of xyz city.

You just read all of this and I didn’t actually give many recommendations; I wanted to lay the foundation of my travel ethos before diving into my guides themselves. Amongst the “color commentary,” you can also expect practical advice, like how to get around each city, the contents of my mini portable pharmacy, and what’s actually worth packing for a trip, even if you’re into fashion but prefer to travel with a carry-on (that’s me!).

All of my trips have required a lot of digging around on websites/publications (Messy Nessy’s guides are my favorite), subscriber chats on Substack, Reddit, and TikTok/IG to put together what I’m looking for. I enjoy all of this research, but it’s a lot of work, and I want to share the fruits of my labor with a broader audience. I’ve created mini travel guides on my Instagram and have sent the PDF versions to friends of friends, and I always text my Google Maps to anyone in need. I have a running email for Mexico City and Paris recs, but I haven’t put all of this together. This will be their new home, and I’ll edit as I (hopefully) get to visit these incredible places again. I’ll start off with Istanbul, my most recent trip, and then move on to Paris, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Amsterdam, Mexico City, New York City, notes on Sri Lanka, and a local guide to San Francisco, adding new cities as I go.

I look forward to sharing and reliving my trips through Substack, and hope my fellow discerning history-loving, food-curious, sartorially creative people find me here at the intersection of fashion and travel: my favorite place to be (besides the international terminal at SFO).

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The Notes App

It kills me softly that I can’t remember where I saw this, but I read (or was it an IG post?) about how the Notes app on a woman’s phone is absolutely unhinged (in the best way) and is the modern diary. As someone who, at the time of writing, has 1,371 personal notes and 12 shared, I deeply resonate. My reliance upon this relatively paleolithic app abated with the introduction of Carted, where I could store all my shopping thoughts in gorgeous categories and revisit regularly (along with standard folders for tops, loungewear, shoes, etc., I had one that was “inspiration” - basically, this is gorgeous but overpriced and I can totally make this myself). Carted folded (I sent them an email expressing my sadness) and now I’m back to saving links on Notes1, which truly feels like I’m on dial-up internet.

From a shopping/trend POV, here’s what’s taking up the memory on my iPhone (and physical brain space):

Grey is emerging, potentially becoming the new brown which was the new navy which was the old black

Grey is interesting to me. With the rise of synthetic materials, grey suiting options became prevalent at retailers like H&M, Banana Republic Factory and Ann Taylor Loft as the option for professional-wear, mimicking wool without the price tag. The oversaturated nature of seeing icky-shiny slim-fitting ankle pants completely turned me away from the color almost in it’s entirety. Even when cut impeccably and touting an Armani label, I still couldn’t get over it. That, plus the classic image of a pit-stained gym t-shirt really kept me from ever considering grey as chic. H-O-R-S-E is trying to change this, but I’m not sold.

Something is happening, though. Brown, which used to be reserved for polyester spread-collar shirts from the ‘70s, has undergone a fashion facelift akin to Anne Hathaway’s miraculous results. It truly is this season’s black. Besides my trusty COS t-shirts (I own 5, who do I think I am, Zuckerberg?), my brown LESET Margo polo, brushed cashmere FRAME sweater and brown LESET button-down2 are my most-worn tops in my current rotation. This COS long-sleeve tee is also in my Notes app “consider buying this” list, a real twofer trend item (stripes + brown). I just got a pair of brown balloon pants from Zara and I have to keep myself from repeating them several times a week. Our very chic denim Design Director was wearing a buttoned-up brown polo sweater and deep espresso trench coat combo the other day and I was completely transfixed. Paired with black, white, a pop of red, possibly butter yellow, or *grey,* it’s giving holy chic.

My prediction: grey. is. next.

While my trusty Quince cashmere sweater is another closet go-to, I still don’t own much grey. In the last couple weeks, though, it’s been creeping up on me, and I’m tiptoeing my way in with this Uniqlo cashmere-blend turtleneck. It’s important to note, darker grey and melange yarns seem to be the most trend-forward, but it really depends on fabric and overall vibe.

1. Róhe’s frog-closure (more on that below) grey wool cardigan emerged last year and has basically now reached cult-status (is it the new Toteme scarf coat??). While also available in cream and brown, the grey hits hardest (except for the black leather, drool). I’m loving this season’s peplum update with black leather closures. I’m very tempted to buy, but I’m holding off, as I’m constantly combing through resale sites trying to find a vintage (less $$$) version.

2. Bode’s Dovecote Port Trousers. As I mentioned, I have mall-retailer grey trouser PTSD, but Bode’s version is checking all the right boxes. The key to a grey trouser is to un-corporate them, essentially going with the “wrong shoe theory” but for the entire outfit: swinging one way with a party top (tassels, anyone?) or over-index on a casual vibe. I’d love to see these with a red Adidas track jacket, graphic tee, a patent moc loafer (an excellent Chanel dupe), and pillbox hat (+ plenty of gold jewelry, obviously).

   

3. Modern, clean-lines à la Phoebe Philo done in a grey melange or similar texture. This is harder to find; COS had this whole getup in grey, but it sold out. The light brown is a good substitute; I’m predicting we’re going to see more of these styles pop up. The Row is toting a $1600 light flannel button-down this season, and Substack-darling Maria McManus has a similar version on offer. I have no doubt the high street will soon be following.

Leap Frog

I’m hyper-conscious of cultural appropriation and also have a deep appreciation for clothing from around the world. I’ve asked my friends of different cultures and backgrounds if wearing xyz is out of bounds, and their consistent answer has been that as long as it’s worn respectfully and with good intent, not as cosplay, I’m good to go. Still, I remain cautious. With that being said, one of my favorite clothing details for as long as I can remember is (re)gaining global trend status: the frog closure. According to Google (lazy journalism):

The frog closure originated in China, where it has been used on traditional garments for centuries, possibly as early as the 5th to 7th century, and at least since the Song dynasty (960–1279 AD). It later spread to Europe and beyond, where it became a prominent feature on military uniforms and, subsequently, civilian fashion.

I pilfered this gorgeous reversible silk jacket from my mom’s closet, which she bought in Hong Kong before I was born, and while I wear it a fair amount, I’m searching for a more neutral version (enter, Róhe’s cardigan). I’ve also bought dark navy frog fasteners from the fabric store, and am planning on either adding them to a denim rinse Trucker jacket or sewing up a navy poplin peplum blouse (Ganni style) and using them as the closures instead of ties. Maybe I’ll do both?!

Adidas closed out Shanghai Fashion Week with a show titled “Power of Three,” featuring Tang jackets reimagined for today with, yep, you guessed it, many frog closures. Coverage of the show was ridiculously hard to find, shocking given how devastatingly good it was. (Any Adidas people reading this that can hook me up with one of these jackets?!)

Massimo Dutti has jumped on the frog train, albeit with a more “minimalist” take. Bode is obviously here. And, of course, there are many vintage and second-hand versions on eBay, Etsy, etc. Closure adjacencies fall under this Chan Luu cardigan I think about literally daily (I should probably just buy it, huh?) and this Donni fleece number. If you’re more of a military-punk-Euro fan, wrote an excellent piece on the resurgence of the Hussar jacket (a modern, cropped version here).

Speaking of outerwear…

My niche fascination with historical-inspired jackets is a little out of hand. As a self-titled Modern Antiquarian, attaining a phenomenal topper (or five), usually with mutton sleeves, has become a hyper-fixation of mine. There’s this one from French brand Bourgine for more everyday wear, this gauzy, semi-creepy (and crepe-y) option from independent designer Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, a black Victorian-esque blazer from everyone’s favorite historical cosplay-meets-fashion label Selkie, and Destree’s brand-catapulting Amoako jacket that truly lives rent-free in my brain. The pièce de résistance? This Colleen Allen dream.

The rise of silk

There are many Substack writers discussing how opulence is emerging due to our world being on fire and post-pandemic fashion is craving a break from boring quiet luxury. I’m not one of them (maybe I am, with that one sentence?) but I am noticing a huge uptick in structured silk fabrications amongst New Arrival pages. Let’s be clear: I have never walked away from structured silk. My mom had gorgeous, sculptural open-front jackets made for her when I was a kid (she got rid of them, whyyyy?!) and those pieces have always remained an inspiration to me (similar to the cropped Bobbi but cooler). When I first started sewing, I chose organza instead of cotton to make my projects. Unforgiving? Yes. Dramatic? Also, yes. It seems the trend world is sidling up to where I’ve been this whole time, finally offering pieces that exude the attitude of, why yes, darling, I am a purveyor of the arts. It’s very grande dame matron and I am absolutely here for it.

Please, please, also note that satin is not silk. Say it louder for the people in the back! Satin is a type of weave, whereas silk is the material itself, made from silk worms. I have a serious issue with brands like LESET (clearly, I have a love-hate relationship with them) charging $300+ for a pair of elastic-waist polyester pants, preying on poor West Village girlies who think they’re walking away with silk. Not on my watch!

Anyway, do I have a favorite type of silk? Of course, thank you for asking. It’s a tie between organza and moiré, arguably at the opposite ends of the silky spectrum. Moiré is definitely harder to find and is more of a “historical” fabric, most commonly used these days in upholstery. It’s characterized by it’s ripple-effect texture, achieved by pressing finished silk fabric through rollers to create its unique appearance.

I haven’t found anything *current* that I love in moiré, so my plan is to buy the perfect yardage and have a jacket, à la historical inspiration, and maybe a matching pair of pants, made for me. And while they’re listed as being made with moiré, and I’m not seeing it, I literally don’t care: these Bode flats are, in my opinion, absolute perfection. I’m on the waitlist for when they restock my size and am chomping at the bit for them.

Chan Luu is a brand that’s doing silk-inspo the right way. Am I the only one that remembers them as the brand who launched tiny leather-wrapped beaded bracelets into cult status? When did they start doing clothes, and so well?! I’m here for it, don’t get me wrong. What a phenomenal pivot for the times. While I wish their clothes were actually silk (they’re mostly poly) I’m willing to look the other way because of the killer designs.

This beaded trench in a paper weight (!!!) cotton organdy is giving organza but more “every day,” if you will. Their taffeta barrel pants are absolutely gorg, and could be dressed up or down in a multitude of ways. I’ve been *this close* to buying a pair but am considering sewing up my own. Donni has entered the chat with their version of LESET’s Bobbi coat in this gorgeous ballet pink. I’m a sucker for anything even remotely ballet related, including the color. made me aware of Kallmeyer doing an actual silk organza button down that would look *so amazing* with dark vintage Levi’s jeans, red Le Bon Shoppe socks and the aforementioned Bode opera flats. Add a dark brown suede trench and you’re good to go (forever grateful to have my grandmother’s vintage version!).

Finally, one cannot forget silk velvet. The best pieces are made in the 1920s, with the softest drape of all time, exuding flapper elegance. While not of the Charlie Chaplain-era, this opera coat has been saved in my Notes app for over a year, and although I’m hesitant to share it for fear of someone snatching it up, maybe that’ll put me out of my “should I or shouldn’t I?” purchase misery.

We’re going to leave the silky section with a fun fact I learned at The Costume Institute’s Sleeping Beauties exhibit last year: Scroop is the term used to describe the “characteristic rustling sound” of stiff silk, common during the days of yore when ladies wore massive silk gowns. This is not to be confused with Salt-N-Pepa’s 1993 hit single, “Shoop.”

Honorable Notes mentions

I can’t stop, won’t stop, thinking about:

• Simon Miller’s wooden fish clutch, the perfect not-so-serious take the minaudièr resurgence

• Dries Van Noten’s $6,000 tassel-embellished blazer, which I may attempt to recreate

• Front Row Shop’s leather necklace, introduced to me by . Hoping to find a similar version (and definitely a tassel necklace) on my upcoming trip to Turkey, but if not, I’ll definitely be buying this.

• Long, skinny (silk!) scarves are absolutely back!

• Vaguely Jedi-coded, super duper flat, leather sock boots. I refuse to pay $1300 on these from The Row so I’m on the hunt for a good dupe.

• Finding the perfect loafer: my gawd, I went on a 3-week journey with The Row’s tassel loafer, buying and returning two sizes because I ultimately found them uncomfortable. I want something polished and unique, casual for everyday wear but able to dress up if needed. A trip to Belgian Shoes during my next visit to NYC is imminent, because I love the croc pair posted by Blanca Miro.

  

Well, that’s it, those are the unhinged highlights of my Notes app. Thank you for sticking with me this far. I’ll be back (more regularly!) soon!

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noun: vice

1. a metal tool with movable jaws that are used to hold an object firmly in place while work is done on it, typically attached to a workbench.

To name this post, I’ve pulled out my copy of The Thinker's Thesaurus, have used Dictionary & Thesuarus.com, and have noodled on different titles saved in my notes app. Nothing seems to stick like the idea of a Brain Vice, though, and so I’ll add my own definition, here:

concept: [brain] vice

2. a metaphorical grip a topic, idea, or object holds on the brain, establishing itself as a near-permanent fixation.

Or, as the kids say these days, “It’s living rent-free in my head.”

A brain vice is also not something negative, but more of an interest with curiosity as the driving force. Sure, my anxiety and clinical depression keep my brain in a vice (different than “brain vice”) but I have like, prescription drugs for that. It also doesn’t have to be something particularly erudite. For example, one of my brain vices is Erika Jayne’s skin (of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills). She’s 53 and I don’t see a single wrinkle on her. Who’s her doctor? What’re her secrets? Future me in twenty years would really like to know.

Hopefully we’re now all on the same page, so we can dive into the meat and potatoes of this post. Speaking of meat…

Cows are having a mooment

Cow print is dangerously close to becoming the new leopard print and, as someone who grew up in Montana, I’m all for it. I have a cowhide pillow cover in my living room, a faux cowhide as a rug in my bedroom (planning to upgrade this in 2025), a cowhide purse I bought last year in anticipation of this trend and my treasured Simone Rocha flats. Sure as the Big Sky is blue, “new arrivals” sections are filled with cow print, perfect in a loafer or slouchy tote.

It’s not only the print that’s garnering attention these days, either. On a recent road trip back from Palm Springs with my boyfriend, we were listening to NPR’s Wait Wait…Don’t Tell Me!, my favorite “interactive” news show. In one section, they read a limerick and a call-in contestant has to finish the rhyme. The excerpt:

KURTIS: From this tallow, my skin gets relief, but the internet's giving me grief. The fat from a cow makes a wrinkle-free brow, so I'm rubbing my face with some...

BECKY: Beef?

SAGAL: Beef, yes.

(SOUNDBITE OF BELL)

SAGAL: According to The New York Times, more and more people are turning to beef tallow. That's beef fat. It's a cheap and natural alternative to commercial skincare products. So stop shopping for skin care at Sephora. Start shopping at the dumpster behind a Ruth's Chris Steak House. Users claim slathering pure beef fat on their faces makes their skin look nourished and gives them that fresh-off-the-grill glow.

I turned to my boyfriend with a horrified look on my face, only to be met with him telling me that he uses beef tallow, starting recently, and reminded me that I’d just told him his skin looks amazing. The next day, he brought me a breakfast sandwich and an unopened container of tallow (he really is the best) from a company called Harvest & Herd (clever, no?). I kept the tallow in it’s box, worried my dog would lunge for it and voraciously tear apart the packaging when she smelled a whole tub of beef fat, imagining her tearing off my face like some kind of crazed monkey when I’ve slathered myself with the ultimate dog treat (welcome to my brain, she’s an elderly pup and so docile with me that this is actually comical).

Anyway, I opened the glass jar and had quite a shock: it smells ah-mazing and has the best, smooth texture. I rubbed it on my face, wondering if I looked like a freshly cooked steak, but it absorbed pretty well and left me soft and glowy. I use it every night now, and have genuinely seen a difference in my skin. Have I told anyone? No. You’re the first.

My final note in this cowtegory are Chomps beef sticks. The grownup and less icky version of a Slim Jim, Chomps are a carnivore’s dream. They have enough protein to tide me over and are so easy to slide into my bag or travel backpack, taking up zero space. I read somewhere that Chomps are the “hot girl snack of L.A.” - the author saw a bunch of babes walking around eating them, apparently. My teammate made me a care package a few months ago after my dad passed, and what was inside? CHOMPS. She gets me.

Honorable mention to these Brother Vellies Boston-style clogs, and although not cow-print, this gorgeous Alaïa-esque shoulder bag from & Other Stories.

Book nooks

Around 2020, I found a corner of the internet I never knew I needed: book nook Reddit. I’m a long time lurker, occasional poster if I see one out in the wild, but the talent people have to build these little worlds wedged between books is astounding. Book nook kits are now all the rage, but I’m talking about the made-from-scratch, wired with electricity, insane detail of a handcrafted nook.

My dad was an avid model railroader, and I know he would’ve loved to have helped me build one of these. My goal is to use his tools and supplies to fashion one for myself, one of these days.

This one is an invisible library - watch all the way through!

Austria

Visiting Austria is at the top of my bucket list. I want a solid ten days to go to the symphony every day, catch an Opera or ballet (depending on the season), visit gorgeous museums and palaces, and see a Lipizzaner performance. I haven’t even seen The Sound of Music (sacrilege in most circles, definitely to my mom) and I’m still desperate to go. (In 2021, a rumor started that there was a counter in the Vienna airport for travelers who’d flown to Austria, thinking they were going to Australia. Sadly, it was a marketing ploy for a data company, but I’m sure this actually happens.)

One day, I spent several hours planning my dream trip to Vienna and Salzburg. I’ve decided this will likely happen in 2026 instead of this year, but here’s a screenshot of my plans:

While everything on this list is definitely a brain vice, the Lipizzaner horse ballet sounds like one of the most exquisite events of all time: gorgeous white stallions dance in a stunning arena (this blog seems to describe it pretty well). The tradition has been alive for over 450 years, meaning spectators in the 1500s were seeing the same performance as we are today. It takes place at the Spanish Riding School, on the grounds of the Hofburg Palace.

I grew up riding horses and I didn’t even know their back legs could get that straight! It’s truly stunning. My parents saw them on their honeymoon and a friend also went, citing it as an amazing experience.

In a true case of frequency illusion, I stumbled across this article about a costume designer’s salon/atelier in Vienna and have not been able to stop thinking about it. A dream kitschy dollhouse filled with tulle and antiques, it sits as a hidden gem in the old silk manufacturing district. It’s worth scrolling through the pictures alone, but the way she describes her space is enchanting, providing plenty of inspiration for my own apartment.

Lastly, if you’re a fan of historical dramas like I am, I can’t recommend The Empress enough on Netflix. One of my best friends told me about it, and my other BFF and I crushed both seasons in a week while on Thanksgiving vacation. It’s in German (natürlich) but that shouldn’t scare you off. There is a dubbed version, but my brain can’t handle voices not matching mouth movements. Plus, I watch everything with subtitles, Housewives and Love Island included (especially Love Island, Cockney accents are something else) so it wasn’t that much of a stretch for me. The drama and familial relationships are incredibly well done, and while a lot is dramatized, I learned so much about the history and prowess of Austria through the show. Plus, the costumes and set design are 10/10.

This quote from The Art Thief

Our brains are permitted to dream while awake. [Art] signals our freedom. It exists because we’ve won the evolutionary war.

A Tabi dilemma

During a 2016 trip to Paris, my mentor set me up with a friend of his to guide me through the Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen, which is the largest (factually), most incredible antique market (I’d argue) in the world. “The origin of Marché aux Puces de Paris - Saint-Ouen dates back to the 1870s, nearly 150 years ago, when, driven out of Paris, the waste pickers came to settle on the other side of the fortifs.”

Having a guide, one that’s well-known and respected in the fashion community, was invaluable. He chatted with vendors who brought down secret bags of denim, allowing me to score a pair of Made in France 501s that I’ll cherish forever. Another shop owner specialized in rare clothing, and allowed us to sneak upstairs to view his storage area, full of archival and runway Margiela. Photos weren’t allowed, and I tried to stealthily snap one (below), but you can’t see much. I haven’t stopped thinking about that visit since. Witnessing conversations between my new friend and sellers and seeing spaces not open to the public was one of the most privileged moments of my life, one that felt truly tailored to me and so incredibly special.

How does this relate to Tabis?

Well, I’ve never worn a pair, and I don’t own any Margiela. For years, wearing Tabis was an IYKYK fashion connoisseur secret language. I’ll never forget seeing them for the first time on the subway in NYC: I imagine my eyes looked like they comically bulged out of my head. However, I didn’t see them as a shoe for “me.” Tastes change, and now I’m fully on board, absolutely wanting a pair. The “problem,” now, is that Tabis no longer have the mystery and secret fashion language attached to them that they used to have. As with most things, I blame the internet. The absolutely wild story about how one woman’s Tabis were stollen after a Tinder date blew up TikTok in 2023. Lily Rose Depp’s trench coat “buttoned to the TOP” and “ballerina ass slippers” is now my favorite niche fashion TikTok audio clip. But, with my scarcity mindset and a need to be chronically unique, wanting Tabis is at odds with this.

What it actually comes down to is that I need to just fucking relax and try them out. Maybe I’ll hate them (I won’t, I went Tabi shopping in September but didn’t buy a pair). Maybe I’ll love them and start collecting these little split-toe Centaur-core babies for decades to come. Either way, I’m nearly certain I’m going to dip my big toe into the world of Tabis by buying a non Margiela pair first. I’m not dying to have the white stitch to signal to everyone I spent $900+ on my shoes, although I’m sure I’ll get there. For now, I’m eyeing these from AliExpress (if you’re new here, my thoughts on AE can be found in this post).

When I eventually buy Margiela Tabis, I want them to be Galliano-era, which means I need to snap up a pair in the next year or so. My dream pair (below) is a reminiscent of his S/S 2024 Couture Show, which, I can guarantee, is a brain vice of any fashion, beautify and history buff out there. And as of I <3 Mess said, “I must say, however, I am more than ready to see the Margiela tabi slip back out of mainstream popularity again. Let us artsy fashion freaks have something for ourselves!”

The Louvre x Couture

Given the success The Costume Institute at the Met has every year, it genuinely shocks me the Louvre is just now dabbling in the fashion space. Art and Fashion: Statement Pieces sounds like an absolute dream come true; I even looked at plane tickets just for funsies to see it (the financially responsible option is to buy the catalog, so I’ll be trying to find a copy of that, instead). All major news outlets are covering it, and with PFW upon us (Men’s has begun) I’m sure we’ll hear even more from the lucky ducks that get to visit the show.

This glossy red claw clip

I found this on someone’s gift guide somewhere, have saved it on my Carted app and look at it approximately three times a week. It’s so glossy and clearly well-made, and adds an easy pop of trendy red. I should probably just give in and buy it, huh?

Two photos, one brain vice

A fire burned the Irish Moorehall estate in 1923, and “nature has been reclaiming it since.”

New Orleans recently experienced historic snowfall, and one of my favorite photographers on Instagram captured it beautifully. This image has stuck in my mind, but others of a deserted Bourbon Street and Mardi Gras decorations blanketed in white are incredible, too.

Bossa Nova Jazz

Speaking of NoLa: my boyfriend picked me up one day cheerily playing Bossa Nova jazz, and I haven’t stopped listening for a solid three weeks. Growing up, our house was filled with a healthy mix of Dave Brubeck, Yoyo Ma, Don Henley and Van Morrison. Hearing Take Five immediately brought me back to childhood.

Thanks for reading this installation of The Creative Clam and humoring my brain vices. What’s keeping your brain hamster wheel a runnin’?

The Creative Clam is a whenever-the-mood-strikes newsletter largely focused on fashion, what I can’t stop thinking about, & musings discovered on-and-off the World Wide Web.

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Before we dive in…

Are you familiar with the “how your email found me” memes? Usually featuring a cuddly character or mascara-streaked individual facing some sort of existential crisis, these memes are all too real these days. Between the LA fires and Tr*mp’s inauguration, I wasn’t sure if sending out a newsletter was appropriate. In reality, we all need a little brain break, and this post exudes powerful femininity, a feeling we’d all benefit from tapping into more on a regular basis.

On a positive note, this is how I’m writing “this email,” which in all actuality, is pretty chill. My dog is cuddled up in her bed and I have Bach playing on vinyl; I stopped by an estate sale this weekend and found the dearly departed and I had the same taste in music: I got six Bach records, one “Happy Piano” vinyl and “Pavarotti’s Greatest Hits” for $40. I’d like to think they’re happy that their records are filling my living room with music while I write.

A note on the creative process

In December, I wrote a post called Today I Learned: Substack Edition. Effectively a running list of trends* and themes I’d seen on my feed, TIL was the inspiration for this post. My initial plan was to do a mini feed roundup and throw in some trends and ideas I’m personally feeling or shopping for, but as I was writing, a broader theme became clear: what was once matronly is now chic. A harkening back to grande dame femininity is here, a trail blazed by our foremothers for us fashion-lovers in the year 2025. So, instead, I’ve made a left turn (I literally wrote for my intro: “There’s no major theme here, just musings that will hopefully give your brain a break for the next 3-5 minutes.”). Just kidding. The theme is MATRIARCH.

*A note on trends: I, like so many of my fashion cohort, are sick of micro-trends and the internet telling us what to wear, who to be. I got my nails done this weekend, going in with the idea that I’d do some crazy art with sculptural 3D elements. I left with sheer ballet pink. My nail artist and friend (who I’ve been going to since 2017) said that everyone’s into the “clean-girl” aesthetic right now. UGH. My color selection wasn’t a nod at a trend: in that moment, sitting in her chair, simple nails seemed like the way to go, not because I want to have the same manicure as Hailey Bieber. This is, actually, a note I wrote in my notes app and my phone autocorrected “clean girl” to “clean gut” and honestly, I’m into that more. Clean guts 2025.

Onward…

Grande Dame Nostalgia: Baubles & Accessories

Opaque necklaces

Sophie Buhai’s easy-to-wear beaded necklaces have been popping up on my feed, introduced to me by in one of her Elusive Hot Girl (EHG) Series posts (please read, for the good of the culture). They’ll run you $500+ for the most basic of necklaces. I love the look but knew I could easily make my own, so I did just that, going to Chinatown in San Francisco and finding lapis lazuli beads to create my own “everyday collar”. My expensive taste wasn’t lost while shopping, though: my eye caught an absolutely stunning strand of 18mm jade beads. The price? $890.

Recently, these types of necklaces were “out of style” and pretty matronly looking. Now, this classic is making it’s way back, from semi-precious stones to easy pearls. I wore my lapis lazuli necklace several days in a row and absolutely love it; it’s a new staple for me, akin to an easy gold chain. It’s also unlocking a new curiosity for me with lapis lazuli and next, I want to dive in with larger beads, like this style, either in jade or my new favorite blue stone.

Sophie Buhai and these Elusive Hot Girls are on to something.

Brooches

Continuing down the yellow brick road of old-school jewels brings us to our next stop: brooch-a-palooza. Some of us (me) have been stocking up on brooches for years, waiting for their return. Thanks to Daniel Roseberry at Schiaperelli and Jonathan Anderson at Loewe (RIP to his stint there) the use of brooches as buttons and the over-embellishment and personalization of clothing has become even more popular. coined the term Brooch-Maxxing in a recent post, and it’s stuck with me. One of my “Roman Empires” has been a stunningly embellished Loewe coat from 2023, and I couldn’t believe my eyes when I read her article, centered around that coat! (Side note: this is what I mean when I say that I’ve found my people on this platform.)

Formerly saved for the senior crowd, brooches are having a moment. They’re such an easy way to express personal style on a variety of garments, and by tying a ribbon around the back pin, one can become a bag charm. If you don’t have great flea markets or vintage stores near you, Etsy and eBay are goldmines for finding vintage pins. AliExpress also has solid Schiaperelli-esque options, more on that here.

wrote a handy piece on how to source brooches (and jewelry) online, absolutely worth a read with great keywords to keep in mind while scrolling resale sites.

Clip-on earrings

Much to my earlobe’s dismay, clip-on earrings are here to stay (intentional rhyme, no apologies). By their very nature, clip-ons are often large, over-the-top earrings that are the very antithesis to the “clean girl” aesthetic. This is probably why I’m drawn to them; my maximalist sensibilities love a mega bauble paired with a chunky necklace and a ring on each finger. Equally as good is a baseball cap with a clip-on: ideal tension-dressing. Some of my favorite second-hand and vintage writers regularly include great pairs in their edits. If you’re looking, give these gals a follow: , , , , , , .

Hammered spirals, like Georgia O’Keeffe’s famous pin, ( says they’re brutalist) are also definitely having a moment, finding their way into almost every sub-category of jewels discussed in this post. Ginny found some excellent pieces, here, nailing the art of scouring the internet for spiral diddies.

Collars, tassels & minaudières, oh my

My grandmother, who we lovingly called Honey, was impossibly chic (along with her mother, Goggie, who was a Ford model). I remember her wearing an articulated collar necklace with a jeweled slider pendant, my favorite being a crisp aquamarine. All her jewelry was stollen in a home invasion, quite literally robbing us of her stunning heirlooms (but those f*ckers can’t take away my memories of her wearing them). Like the aforementioned opaque beaded necklaces, brooches, and clip-on earrings, these collar-style necklaces are making their way back into the jewelry boxes of many. Collars aren’t anything new in the trend-cycle, but the vintage style with a center focal point, coiled ones with the stone sliders, and linked variations are feeling decidedly fresh in 2025. Styled with a black turtleneck or white tee is a no-brainer, but I love the idea of wearing them with a crisp button-down, collar popped, martini in hand.

Tassels have floated to the top of many “weekly finds” lists, mostly gold-toned and worn as a long, lariat-style necklace. Layered with a shorter necklace (aforementioned opaque stones, anyone?) creates a modernized look and textural contrast. Egg-shaped, classic minaudières with glossy exteriors seem to be the current piece du jour, another item that’s giving “museum-store-find,” in the best way. In order to fall into this category, though, they must come complete with a tassel. The longer, the better. Katie Casper found several gorgeous options (one being a Chanel football-shaped clutch) and of Driving Shoes posted about “things niche luxury chic girls are obsessed with” and now… I want this $12,000 bird minaudière.

Court shoes

“Court shoes” are the British English name of what we in ‘Murica call “pumps,” and honestly, “court shoes” just sounds more chic. They inspire images of royal courtiers dancing the night way in gilded halls with marble floors. Pumps remind me of gas stations.

Of course, when taken literally, court shoes aren’t really a trend: they’re always around in some form. What I’m specifically referring to is the type of low- to mid-heeled shoe with more foot coverage than the standard. They look divinely lady-like styled with vintage 501s and a feminine white blouse, or with a cropped sweatshirt and voluminous skirt. While I love Dior’s “New Look” as much as the next gal, I don’t gravitate towards a full Tradwife outfit. Again, tension-dressing here is key.

has shared some recent court shoe outfit inspo, citing Bally shoes as an excellent purchase for those wanting to dabble in the style. I’ve had my eye on a Phoebe Philo-era Celine pair since I first saw them in Saks years ago: leave it to Phoebe to modernize the style. TheRealReal has many good options, a few saved from my favorites are linked below.

This final collage feels very reminiscent of my go-to style these days, and further exemplifies how I identify as a modern antiquarian: inspired by many different time periods (and women) while keeping my style current. While I thank you for reading this post, I also implore you not to forget to thank your foremothers, for without them, we wouldn’t have grande dame nostalgia. Viva la feminista.

If you end up buying anything I suggested, please comment and let me know! Save me from myself!

The Creative Clam is a whenever-the-mood-strikes newsletter largely focused on fashion, what I can’t stop thinking about, & musings discovered on-and-off the World Wide Web.

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I regularly tell people that getting dressed is my favorite time of day. I love deciding what my outfit personality will be and how to communicate it through clothes, shoes, accessories, hair, all of it. Some days, I have legit outfit paralysis that leaves me late for work, forcing a Waymo ride instead of the economical bus. I would rather pay $14 to get to work dressed than show up wearing something that doesn’t feel like “me” that day, itching in my own skin.

This brings me to my next point: I mostly dress for work, peacocking around my office because I know my coworkers appreciate personal style and a great outfit won’t be wasted on them. It will, however, fall on deaf ears for the majority of San Francisco (this isn’t New York, after all). I actually have an internal barometer for how unique or, in my mind, great my outfit is: the more stares on the street, the better.

Not all looks lean maximalist: sometimes I moonlight as a Khaite/The Row girlie, too. The unpredictability of my morning brain and how I want to look that day excites me, often triggering a flow state of getting dressed, beautifully explained by on her Substack.

What it really boils down to is that while I don’t have the mental capacity to make something every day (sewing, jewelry, crafting, etc.), I do have the ability to be creative in what I wear and to me, that’s the ultimate daily excitement.

Without further ado, my favorite outfits and pieces of the year, inspired by ’s approachable, readable post on the same topic, with storytelling coming from the item descriptions themselves.

Closet MVP: paint-splattered Carhartts

I bought these at American Rag’s vintage offshoot in May 2023 while on a work trip to LA and they’re one of my favorite pairs of pants. Androgynous, artsy, and worn-in: a great canvas for contrast dressing or an IDGAF outfit.

This was my favorite outfit of the WHOLE YEAR! It was weird and Man Repeller-y and I absolutely loved it. Vintage adidas jacket, vintage lace caplet, Acne tank, Mango mules (sold out), Givenchy Antigona bag; earrings were my mom’s, “turquoise” necklace from Amazon, and I made the skull & pearl necklace. The sunglasses are a collab between Selima Optique in NYC and Poor Things; they’re a reproduction of the pair Emma Stone wore in the movie.

L to R: 1. Room Shop Cloud scrunchie, Carmen Marc Valvo vintage silk shirt, the best tank top in the entire world, unknown* belt, AliExpress boots; 2. Secondhand Ulla Johnson shirt from Crossroads, Laredo boots, earrings I made; 3. Arket button-down purchased in Amsterdam, Laphont melting watch, AliExpress sunglasses, vintage cowhide bag from Etsy, Hermes Oran sandals.

*Unknown means I literally can’t remember where I got the specific piece

Summer MVP: Adidas dress

My body type tends to look best in shift-dress shapes, and when I found this Adidas dress at one of their outlet stores, I knew I had to have it. It reminds me of Prada’s re-nylon version, without the price tag. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find it online to link it here or in my Indyx app closet.

L to R: 1. Aforementioned vintage Adidas track jacket & sunglasses, earrings from AliExpress, Ganni leopard tote snagged for me by a friend at their outlet in Copenhagen, Brother Vellies shoes via TheRealReal; 2. Vintage silk sleep shirt with tiger graphic hand-drawn on the front (I wish I could remember the name of the seller/artist, I got this at West Coast Craft), Simone Rocha bag, AliExpress shoes, H&M sunglasses; 3. I wore outfit three to see Challengers: Moschino F/W 2014 jacket via TRR, Brandon Blackwood Kendrick Trunk bag, MSGM feather heels found at Second Street in SoHo; 4. You’re* hat, Chanel sunglasses, S/S 2003 LV x Murakami Speedy (found on eBay), super old ASOS shirt, Mango Mary Janes (sold out), necklace I made myself.

A few favorites: Maximalist

L to R: 1. Flight jacket via Amazon (that I actually wore while taking flying lessons but also, fashion), vintage lace dress from Depop, black slip underneath from Missing Audrey Vintage in SF, unknown sunnies, earrings from AliExpress, Tom Ford era Gucci boots, Simone Rocha bag; 2. Giants hat I’ve had since I was twelve (!), vintage cotton dress (it’s probably a nightgown, let’s be honest) found in Amsterdam, AliExpress earrings & belt, Hermes scarf & sandals, Givenchy bag; 3. Eddie Money “No Control” 1986 tour tee & lime green dress both from ReLove in Oakland, Zara ballet sneakers, Beyond Yoga bike shorts underneath, perfect for NYC summer heat; 4. (Hopeful) best-dressed-wedding-guest in a Ganni dress from their outlet in Copenhagen, vintage box bag (was $20!) and Manolo Blahnik BB heels.

A few favorites: Minimalish

It’s interesting to look back and compile outfits by theme to see… themes. Here, my Levi’s XL Straight jeans in rinse and Levi’s 90s 501s in washed black were the base for my outfits, and my Zara babouches found at Second Street on the UES were shoe winners, along with my well-loved simple tennis necklace from Bauble Bar, purchased 6+ years ago. All other pieces here are vintage/not available (except for outfit #2’s classic Havianas); one of my favorite bags in my entire wardrobe is the one on the left, found at Screaming Mimi’s in NYC. The Lucite handle is to die!

Historical bangers

I recently wrote a post titled Living a modern antiquarian life. If you haven’t read it, I encourage a quick peruse, as it’ll give you context to how I view my personal style, both in clothing and interiors, as well as the lens through which I look at the world around me. One of my favorite ways to dress is with a historical lean. Sometimes I can get a little costume-y, but often it’s a nod, here or there. Below, some of my favorite historically influenced outfits from 2024. If you feel like reading to some tunes, check out my most-listened to Spotify playlist, Classical Bangers.

L to R: 1. I wore this outfit to see Poor Things, full look details here, from my post titled I have a dirty little secret; 2. The second look was worn to see the Legion of Honor’s exhibit Fashioning San Francisco: headband purchased in SF’s Japantown, Stella Nova Florence jacket (sold out, purchased in New Orleans at Saint Claude Social Club), Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66s; 3. Levi’s Nola shirt (sold out), tiered lace skirt from Screaming Mimi’s, AliExpress silver cuff & earrings, the bag & sunnies you know by now, Loewe mules; 4. My office holiday party outfit was the same Levi’s shirt but I added organza cuffs from Japan (a gift from ) and a beaded 1920’s-style shawl from Screaming Mimi’s, Levi’s XL Straight jeans, AliExpress earrings & boots (jewelry details also in the dirty secret post).

L to R: 1. The height of my historical horse-girl craze in an Isabel Marant shirt from a sample sale, vintage leather vest via Depop, old Levi’s pants, earrings & boots from AliExpress; 2. Second outfit details here, in my post Fashion as armor; 3. my Galentine’s hostess outfit, wearing a deadstock Givenchy robe I scored for $20, Shop-Pêche pleated trousers that got me through the Covidtimes, Brother Vellies mules, Aritzia tube top, necklace by me; 4. This summer’s Pride picnic was the perfect opportunity to make everyone stare: ruff collar from AliExpress, vintage leather harness, Ganni dress from the Copenhagen outlet, Melissa platform fisherman sandals.

Neutrals + texture

Neutrals don’t always mean minimal… may these outfits provide a prime example.

L to R: 1. Deconstructed blazer by the incredibly talented Mexico City-based designer, Minena, worn to the ballet with a silver hand-woven bag also purchased in CDMX, AliExpress boots, vintage skirt and previously mentioned best tank top ever; 2. Zebra Gucci sunglasses from TRR, vintage suede fringe jacket from Missing Audrey Vintage, vintage silver lame shirt, vintage mother-of-pearl bolo tie found in Miami, Levi’s bleached-out 90s 501s, YSL Lukas boots purchased in Paris; 3. Quince cashmere cardigan, Carla Fernandez pants (another brilliant Mexican designer), AliExpress Alaïa ballet flat dupes, By Far Amber bag in croc embossed leather (similar here); Levi’s Sansome vest (sold out) & old rugby shirt, cotton dress/nightgown, Gucci boots from TRR, Givenchy bag; Entire Studios sweatshirt, Levi’s trench coat, Rachel Comey pants, Tom Ford era Gucci boots, Assembly New York hat, Givenchy bag, Jenny Bird chain necklace, my mom’s earrings.

My favorite color is black

Ok, not really, but it makes for a great outfit.

L to R: 1. I absolutely hate showing my arms, but for some reason I did on my first date with my now-boyfriend. Maybe that was the secret all along?! Dress from Assembly New York (not available), oldie-but-goodie Prada heels, stacked cuffs and earrings from AliExpress; 2. One of my favorite 2024 purchases is this crinkled organza jacket/blouse from ReLove, belt wrapped around to give me some shape, sold out Levi’s jorts (they’ll be back this spring/summer, promise), Mango mules; 3. Previously mentioned Levi’s shirt buttoned and taped down with garment tape to create pleating at the placket, Levi’s x Barbie Ferreira skirt, vintage leather vest, Mango Mary Janes, Hue knee-high socks; 4. Vintage Nike sweatshirt found in Sacramento, Realtree pants from ReLove, Sigerson Morrison boots from TRR, my favorite bag/sunglasses combo.

Not a stick of butter*, definitely color

I thought I wear more color than I do; in order to create this post, I pulled together all my outfit photos of 2024 into one album, and I’m surprised by the lack of overt color I wore this year. I have moments, of course, but it’s less than I thought it would be. Typically, I balance color with black, and these looks are no exception.

L to R: 1. Cabo girl’s vacation ready in an Alémais silk shirt, Prada Re-Nylon shorts, Fendi bag, Ganni heels from the Copenhagen outlet; 2. I wore this Christopher Kane dress (purchased on mega-sale from Net-A-Porter in 2020) to the Sleeping Beauties Met exhibit with a necklace I made, The Row jelly dupes, and huge satin flower hair clips, not visible; 3. Old Levi’s sweatshirt, pale lavender slip dress worn as a skirt (found in CDMX), AliExpress earrings, Jenny Bird necklace, Gucci Brixton loafers (side note: I cannot believe how expensive designer shoes have gotten. I bought these for $600 years ago, which is still very expensive, and now they’re $1k. Insane.); 4. Cult Gaia top, vintage Escada bag found on eBay, leopard jeans from Amsterdam, barbed wire necklace by The M Jewelers (was also wearing the orange Ganni shoes here from outfit one).

*I’m referencing ’s now fashion-girl famous 2018 term, which she’s so kindly added to her glossary, here

The birth of Mitgang, my label no one knows about…
Until now?

Over the last two years, I’ve sewn a fair amount of clothes, made a lot of jewelry (mostly necklaces), and have had a hell of a lot of fun with trims and a glue gun. As I was artistically (I think?) photographing a harness I’d just made, hanging it from my antique chandelier in my living room/atelier, I asked myself what I’d name my brand, if I actually had one. I think my last name is pretty badass so, why complicate it? Now, when I log my items on Indyx, I actually tag them as “Mitgang” in the brand-name box. Gotta start somewhere.

As you near the end of this post (congratulations for making it this far!) I’m going to stop tagging items and only share what I’ve made.

Pale pink dress, brown taffeta top, and quilt coat

I also took this blue vintage mock-neck sweatshirt (left) and made it into a cardigan, cutting it down the center and applying pleated velvet ribbon from Mood and vintage ribbon I found at an antique fair for closure.

Top and harness

Leopard dress and red floral skirt

I wrote about this skirt and the importance of it in my post on Fashion as armor, which was my “reintroduction” to Substack. The shoes in my first outfit are pre-loved MNZ, found in Amsterdam this spring; I love the contrast of them with a sheer sock and raffia tote from H&M.

She loves a glue gun (and a sewing needle)

The power of a glue gun is endless! I’m not exaggerating: I’ve made some of my favorite pieces by gluing on trims to existing items. It’s easy and transforms something from ordinary to unique, instantly.

Putting this post together has confirmed my statement that making an outfit is a form of daily creativity. Some of you may be thinking, “duh,” but to others, like myself, this may be a fun wakeup call. I know professional stylists do this as a true creative job, but knowing I’m (only) dressing myself has somehow diminished how I’ve thought of this process. Is this imposter syndrome? Maybe.

My hope in sharing these looks is that I inspire someone to get dressed, even if it feels impossible, to wear something they'd normally save for a special occasion, to create a little sartorial contrast, or to embrace stylistic creativity. Dammit, I just love getting dressed.

The Creative Clam is a whenever-the-mood-strikes newsletter largely focused on fashion, what I can’t stop thinking about, & musings discovered on-and-off the World Wide Web.

Subscribe now