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There are a few things to remember when choosing a retinol. The most common thing I get asked is why or why not a tretinoin prescription. Tretinoin has become the “gold standard” for retinol because it is retinoic acid. When we talk generally about a retinol, we could be talking about retinaldehyde, retinal, retinyl esters, encapsulated retinol, etc. All of these versions have to go through conversions in the skin to become retinoic acid, which gives you the best results. When the product has to go through a conversion, it does take away the potency, but also some of the irritation that can come with a prescription tretinoin. In my opinion, the problem with prescription tretinoin is the encapsulation and delivery system. Because it tends to be just sitting in a cream, it doesn’t go quite deep enough in the skin to prevent irritation, itchiness, redness, and peeling. Most people cannot use their prescription every day. Just like any other active/skincare product in general, consistency is everything. That's exactly why we've been so intentional about the retinols we carry at Higgy Skin. They are all retinoic acid (no conversion needed) but they are encapsulated in things like glycolic acid, peptides, exosomes, etc to minimize irritation. They also all have unique delivery systems driving them deeper into the skin, which can give you faster results and less irritation.

If you have a tretinoin prescription and do not feel dry or flaky and can use it consistently, by all means continue!

When a retinol is formulated correctly, you get cellular level change in the skin like:

1. Increased epidermal turnover - this is what helps with congestion and pigment the most.

2. Improved collagen and elastin - why it is recommended for aging skin.

3. Reduced MMP activity - MMP’s are enzymes that break down collagen in the skin and retinoic acid helps to slow them down. Again, helping with aging.

This is why when retinol is used correctly and consistently, your skin truly changes.

So, who is retinol for?

Anyone who is not pregnant or breastfeeding in my opinion! The exceptions would be those with extremely sensitive skin who have tried even the most gentle retinol and cannot handle it, or those with a true allergy. I have done my best to curate a collection of retinols that truly can be handled by anyone!

• RetaXome - This is the only retinol that would go first in your PM routine (even before Lipid Serum). You should be able to use all of these every day, but some clients like to start slow and use every 2 or 3 days for a few weeks to start.

• Alpharet - This goes before moisturizer in the PM.

  • For the most sensitive of skin, I would start with RetaXome or Alpharet. Both of these are ideal for overall aging and slight brightening benefits. They are really tolerable.

  • The difference is that RetaXome is formulated with exosomes and dual weighted hyaluronic acid. It goes the deepest into the skin and has hydrating properties, so if you are super dry and nervous to try a retinol, try that one.

  • Alpharet is encapsulated in peptides and glycolic acid, also making it hydrating, but I would say this is most ideal for a beginner to retinol with secondary concerns like slight congestion or pigment.

• Intensive Alpharxet - Let’s say that you’ve been able to handle your prescription tretinoin for a while now, but want to switch to over the counter or you have used a bottle or two of alpharet and are ready to bump it up. Go into Intensive Alpharet. This has a higher percentage of glycolic acid as well as lactic acid to give even more cellular turnover and brightening benefits.

• If you are struggling with stubborn pigment, go for LuminateXC. This is also retinoic acid, but it is encapsulated with brightening ingredients like Alpha Arubutin and has gone head to head with 4% hydroquinone and given similar results. The difference is that you are getting the skin health benefits of a well formulated retinol, rather than the barrier troubles that come with something harsh like hydroquinone.

For acne patients:

If you are dealing with acne, we have two powerhouse retinols for you to consider.

• 1. Clearing Serum - This one is best for blackheads, texture, and oil production. If you see skin colored bumps or feel like your skin is super oily, try adding Clearing serum to your nighttime routine. It has salicylic acid with the traditional glycolic acid of Alpharet to help manage both of these skin concerns.

• 2. Duality XC - This is retinoic acid with Benzoyl Peroxide. The retinoic acid targets aging, while the benzoyl peroxide targets really stubborn, inflamed acne. I have seen the most incredible results with this product on clients with acne that they thought they could never get under control. I cannot recommend it enough if you have stubborn cystic acne.

Pregnancy safe options:

So all of this sounds amazing, but what if you are pregnant or breastfeeding and have these same concerns? Here are some pregnancy safe alternatives to consider!

• For pore size - Hydrobiome Serum. This is true balance in the skin. When our oil production is balanced, we see a reduction in oil production, which can lead to less congestion and smaller appearing pores overall. I have been using it during this pregnancy and have been so impressed with the lack of breakouts and reduced appearance of pores without drying out my skin.

• For aging - Lines - use 1/2 of a pump of Lines on any stubborn fine lines and watch them soften over time. I also see this product prevent new ones from coming up. It uses neuropeptide to communicate with your facial muscles and help them not work as hard. Anyone who tries this product ends up swearing by it! Spot treat directly on horizontal lines - I love using on my forehead and crows feet.

• For pigment - Talk to your doctor about trying Cyspera. If they are okay with it, use it for 12–16 weeks. Apply to dirty skin for 15 minutes and watch your pigment lift and overall skin glow. I have personally been using this product in the mornings and am so impressed with how my skin looks, I can’t wait to share my before and afters. When I introduced Cyspera, I did have a slight purging moment, but it went away after about two weeks. If you are more sensitive, start by using for 5 minutes a day and work your way up.

• If your doctor is not comfortable with Cyspera, use Eventone Intensive. It has slight resurfacing properties + skin brightening ingredients to help lift and prevent pigment. You can use this twice a day!

• For acne - 8% Mandelic + 2.5% acne med (trust me on this duo)

  • Use Mandelic 2x a day and 2.5% acne med at night and your hormonal acne should start to go away. You will also notice a brighter and smoother complexion overall with this combination!

1. Cleansers

• Cleansing Gel - There is so much about this cleanser that I love. The fact that it is in a pump bottle that you can close (great for travel) to how it removes makeup and even how it rinses off with no residue, this is a one stop shop cleanser that lasts forever. The thing that keeps me coming back to this specific gel cleanser is the saponification because it is not too bubbly and does not leave any film leftover once you rinse it off. It is gentle enough for lash extensions while still getting off any makeup and dirt.

• Bioglyolic cleanser - This is a true treatment cleanser that keeps my pores clear and my pigment under control. I use it when I am not using Cyspera because you apply it with dry hands to dry skin and leave it on for 2 minutes. It really eats away at congestion and the Glycolic + lactic acid combination is super brightening. I also find that for an active cleanser, this one does not dry me out as much as others.

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2. Moisturizers

• Trio Luxe - She’s pricey but she lasts FOREVER. I keep coming back to this moisturizer because of the formula first. It feels like silky velvet on your skin and is so luxurious but absolutely will not clog your pores. As we head into cooler months, I will definitely be taking one of these home with me. I also love the pump/packaging in general. It ensures that you get every last drop and you really do need about 1/2 of a pump for your face and you could go up to 1 pump if you are doing your face and neck. There are around 125 pumps in a bottle, so while it is expensive, it will last you for a very long time. This is a cult favorite moisturizer that everyone comes back to for a reason.

• Barrier Care Gel Cream - This is not just our top selling moisturizer, it’s our top selling product! From the price point to the benefits, it’s all around an incredible option, especially for people who think that they can’t handle a moisturizer. This one is completely acne safe, lightweight, and has a tri recovery complex to help ease redness and expedite the healing of acne and post acne marks. If you are not acne prone, you will still love the benefits of this highly moisturizing formula. I find it best for warmer months or more humid environments. It really well just with about any routine!

3. SPF

• Glow - I love this SPF as a base to makeup or layering with any of our other sunscreen options. It is like the viral glow drops that we see all over socials, but acne safe and SPF 50. I find it really great for the days that I’m just feeling “blah” and need something to give me that extra glow! You also could apply on a brush as a highlighter.

• ToneSmart - We have been out of stock on our website due to a lost shipment, so I want to remind you that you can still support us and purchase here. ToneSmart is SPF 75, non comedogenic, and 100% mineral, making it an acne, pregnancy, and melasma safe choice when it comes to SPF. It is actually approved by the Skin Cancer Association, which is huge (and rare). I find the formula easy to blend and actually works great with glow, too. Although, it already makes your skin look like it has a filter!

4. Retinol - I miss retinol :(

• Luminate XC - This goes head to head with 4% hydroquinone without the side effects or risk of bounceback pigment. It keeps your barrier healthy and promotes healthy aging because of the tretinoin - grade retinol. If you have pigment and want to use a retinol, this is a must.

• Alpharet Clearing Serum - Another barrier safe, tretinoin grade retinol, but this one is encapsulated in salicylic + glycolic acid, making it an acne hero! We have soo many success stories of people going on Clearing Serum and seeing such amazing results in their stubborn acne. I recommend trying especially if you are oily or notice more breakouts around your period because the salicylic acid is so great for oil control.

5. Melasma Specific

• Cyspera Intensive - This has already changed the game for us and our clients in so many ways! It fits into any routine as it is a 15 minute daily treatment on dirty skin. You use it for 12-16 weeks and the results on stubborn pigment are remarkable. It uses technology that has been proven to work on stubborn pigment for years, but made it elegant and user friendly. This is something that no one else could figure out. We are so excited to have it in our line up for pigment! If you feel stuck in your melasma journey, I highly recommend giving it a try. If you are pregnant, I would talk to your doctor.

• Vivid Brightening - I have fallen in love with Vivid all over again this year because of the dual-weighted hyaluronic acid. It is not only extremely brightening, but extremely hydrating. Using this in a pigment targeted routine is so good for your barrier and aging well because a lot of what we put you on is slightly exfoliating to get rid of and prevent your stubborn pigment. I also love the cooling effect that it has on the skin.

My answer might surprise you - if you do not use a skincare routine and do not have any concerns, then by all means, do not incorporate products into your life. However, most people that I meet with have something about their skin that they would like to regulate or prevent, like aging well. If that is the case, then we do need to support our skin. Yes, the cavemen more than likely did not have a skincare routine, but the world was also different when they were alive.

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1. The air quality was not what it is now.

Pollution is one of the top reasons that skin is congested and it accelerates the aging process. This is why we have done so much research about antioxidant serums! They protect us from the free radical damage that can come with polluted air. When we think about aging well, this protection is important to keep skin from sagging / changing the elasticity and increasing pigment development. Even the quality inside of our homes is not completely clean, so we need to wash our faces now even on days when we never leave. Dirt left on the skin can oxidize, creating more damage as well as congestion.

• Antioxidant Serum we recommend (especially if you’re in a city). Just trust!!!

2. Blue light.

Cavemen did not have screens. Looking at screens can cause damage just like sun damage. It can increase pigment and age our skin much faster. If pigment and aging is a concern and you look at a phone during the day, you need to wear sunscreen.

• Sunscreen we recommend, especially if blue light is a big part of your day.

3. Food quality.

We are not having Whole Foods the way that they are designed to be eaten anymore. These nutrient gaps can affect everything from healthy hair growth to glowing skin and strong nails. Think of the amount of supplements out there promoting these things. People used to be able to (and still do with some intention) get everything that they need from food alone. Even if you think you are eating the best food available, more than likely, it does not have all of the nutrients that it once did. We are missing key vitamins that keep skin strong, healthy, and hydrated. This is definitely more of an internal issue, but we can support our body by keeping our skin hydrated externally as well. As a reminder, our skin absorbs the consistency of water the easiest, so serums are the best when it comes to hydration.

Our favorite hydrating serums:

Restorative HA

HydraRemedy

So short answer, do you need a skincare routine?

No. Can it help keep your skin healthy? Yes. If you aren’t sure where to start, find a gentle cleanser like Gentle Gel Cleanser.

And a basic moisturizer

And a sunscreen!

As a reminder, I am currently pregnant, I have melasma and I am acne prone. Since I live in Colorado, I do have more dry skin right now.

I am going to break down what each product does and why I use it AND how you can get a similar routine with far less products, because I do know I use A LOT. But since you asked... I'm sharing everything!

AM routine:

1. Cyspera Intensive - This is a 15 minute mask that you put on dirty skin. It is specifically formulated to target melasma and I have seen remarkable results in the 3-4 weeks that I have had it. It fits in to just about any routine! Most clients will use it at night even on top of makeup, I personally have more time in the morning. It has flown off the shelves, but will be restocked this week!

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2. Barrier Pro 1-step cleanser - This is a newer cleanser to our Higgy Skin store and I really love it. It removes all of your makeup, sunscreen and dirt without stripping the skin at all. I truly do not feel tight after using this cleanser.

3. Hydrobiome serum - This serum is unlike anything else I’ve ever tried. It fights congestion by balancing the biome of the skin. I have noticed literally zero pimples and much smaller pores since using it because my sebum production is so much more regulated. If you are sensitive to actives, try this! It does not have any “acid” makeup to it.

4. Lipid Serum - I truly can’t live without lipid serum. It is SO GOOD. A pea sized amount a day keeps the inflammation away. Inflammation is the root cause of almost every skin condition. Lipid serum is also super hydrating and my skin looks incredibly plump when I use it, so great for those fine lines! Also amazing if you live in a dry climate!

5. Eventone Intensive - This is my ride or die melasma serum. It targets all 5 pathways to pigment, has antioxidants, and a slight exfoliation factor to keep skin turnover. You just need one pump for the entire face, and a bottle has 250 pumps in it.

6. Arctigenin Brightening - This is powered by a patented chia seed ingredient to have an exponential amount of antioxidant protection without using vitamin c, which can be irritating for some. One of my favorite things about Epicutis is how hydrating the entire line is, so for some people this will take the place of a moisturizer, depending on where you live and your skin type. I find it to be hydrating enough for me! It works really well in conjunction with a product like eventone intensive or vivid brightening to keep pigment away. Melasma girlies, definitely consider this one!

7. Glow + Flex mixed together - I love this combo for glowy, full coverage sun protection. Colorescience is powered by minerals, which are the gold standard for sun protection, especially when you are dealing with pigment. Both formulas are also acne safe.

How do you know which one is best for you?

• When choosing between the two, if you do not have a sunscreen at all, I would start with Flex. Choose one shade lighter than you think you need, this formula will warm up with your skin.

• If you already have a non tinted or tinted SPF that you love, try adding in a little bit of glow to it! It has a similar effect to the viral Drunk Elephant Glow drops BUT it’s acne safe & has SPF ;)

PM:

1. Double cleanse - Double cleansing is so important!! Think about trying to put the best skincare possible on your face, but it still has a layer of dirt or SPF from the day. You need to cleanse more than once to ensure that you are squeaky clean. I love using an oil + a gentle cleanser, but for a lot of people, using the same cleanser twice is amazing and does the job just fine. The Barrier Pro Cleanser from the AM is great to use as a double cleanse! It removes makeup so well and is gentle enough to use around the eyes.

2. Lines - I use this as a spot treatment. I use about 1/2 of a pump and apply specifically to where I see horizontal lines. The forehead and around the eyes are my main areas. This is packed with neuropeptides, which can help tell muscles not to work as hard, making lines appear softer. This is my botox in a bottle.

3. Bioclear - A trick here when we think about consolidating products is using Hydrobiome + Eventone again instead of Bioclear + Vivid. You are still getting the cellular turnover and brightening effects from Hydrobiome + Eventone. I like using Bioclear in the PM because it has a higher concentration of acids, so it kind of can take the place of a retinol while I am pregnant.

4. Vivid - This is a brightening serum with dual weighted hyaluronic acid, so it is really hydrating. Again, dry skin is aging skin, so the more we can hydrate the skin the better! I love this one specifically for melasma because it also has an ingredient called Augustache Mexicana, which can lower the temperature of the skin and help with inflammation, again!

5. Hivea Cream - I picked this up at my clinic because I hadn’t tried it yet and I LOVE it! A little goes a very long way with this one. Literally dip your finger in and that is plenty. A jar should last around 4 months. I do know that it is a pricier product, so you can use Arctigenin brightening again at night for your moisturizer, or a great affordable option as always is the Barrier Care Gel Cream from Face Reality.

6. Sulfur Spot treatment - I have something I put sulfur on every night. My skin can have a little bit of redness to it, so if I am feeling some of that, I will put a thin layer wherever I see some red peaking through. I also will put a thin layer on any breakout or clogged pore. This product is amazing and can be used multiple times throughout the day.

Remember that my routine might not work for you and that’s why your skincare professional is here :) Book your virtual here!

1. Most of the time when we get a break out, our initial thought is to dry it out and basically attack it. Using too many actives is one of the ways that we can destroy our barrier. When this happens, it makes it really hard for our skin to heal by itself. This leads to more texture and breakouts that stick around for a long time. The key with acne, is using the right actives at the right time.

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Here’s an example of a controlled actives acne routine that will get your acne gone while still keeping your barrier healthy!

AM

• 1. Ultra Gentle Cleanser

• 2. Moisture Balance toner

• 3. 5% Mandelic Acid

• 4. HydaRemedy

• 5. SPF

PM

• 1. Ultra Gentle Cleanser

• 2. Moisture Balance toner

• 3. Cleaning Serum

• 4. Barrier Care Gel Moisturizer

• 5. 2.5% Acne Med

2. The other common mistake is using products that work for your friend or your favorite influencer, but do not work for you. When I do virtual consultations, I so often hear people say that they’re using their products because they had a friend who recommended them. BUT their friend may live in a different climate, have a different skin type, or experience completely different hormonal fluctuations. It’s important to know how your skin responds to different ingredients, different foods, and to pay attention to when you break out around your cycle. Believe it or not, the pattern of your breakouts can help us choose the correct products for you. What works for your friend may work for a period of time, but it will not be a lasting solution. Understanding your specific skin is so important in healing your acne.

• I do want to point out that even with a skincare professional, healing acne can take time and often involves some trial and error. It also requires patience. The good news is that once we find the routine that works for your skin, everything becomes much more manageable.

• If you’re feeling overwhelmed or don’t know where to start, I’d love to help. You can book a virtual consultation here!

3. Not hydrating your skin because you’re scared of breaking out. I see this most often with oily skin types. One of the biggest myths is that oily skin doesn't need moisturizer. In reality, skipping moisturizer, especially when you're exfoliating, can leave your skin feeling dehydrated, causing it to produce even more oil to make up for it. Now, if you don’t wash your face and don’t apply any products then not using a moisturizer is fine. But even washing your face with a gel cleanser means you need a moisturizer, oily skin or not. Your skin has a pH that it likes to sit at and that is what makes your oil production balanced. Lots of times this requires a cleanser, acid, and hydrating product to keep things in line. The key to picking out a moisturizer when you are oily/acne prone is making sure that it does not have pore cloggers and it is not too heavy.

Here are Higgy’s top 3 moisturizers for oily skin:

• Trio

• Barrier care gel cream

• Oxygen cream

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There are also some habits that we get in to that also can cause our barriers to get impaired, when this happens it does make healing acne a lot harder. A few common ways this happens is if you cleanse too many times in one day. I see that clients who workout later in the day tend to cleanse their skin 3 or even 4 times in one day. Rather than doing this, make sure your skincare and makeup is acne safe, use a hypochlorous acid after you workout, and do your PM routine as soon as you can. I always remind clients that you can’t do it too early! If you are able to, wash your face for the evening after your workout. Otherwise use a spray in the meantime.

The other way that people often damage their skin barrier is by picking at their pimples. This increases your risk of scaring, especially stubborn textured scars, and makes the breakout take longer to heal. If your pimple is red and under the skin, I would opt for Sulfur Spot treatment.

If it has a whitehead, try wearing a pimple patch overnight or under your makeup and then apply the Sulfur Spot for healing and redness.

Be patient as your skin heals, even the right combination can take time! Rather than switching products when you don’t see results after a month, give each product about 3 months to work.

• Our skin is in 90 day cycles, so it can take that full 3 months to really see a difference. The only exception of stopping earlier is if you get an itchy reaction or you stat to breakout severely in new places.

• Within the first 2 weeks, you should notice more hydration and more of a glow to your skin.

• Around week 4, you should notice that you get less breakouts and they heal faster.

• Around week 12 is when we will see real results and build upon those. That’s right around when I feel comfortable adjusting actives and getting more or less aggressive, too.

Remember that these are all general rules and there is so much individuality in our skin! That’s why your skincare professionals are here :)

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• If i am looking at a routine from top to bottom, one of the first things that we do is take a client off of a harsh cleanser. This is SO important when calming down the skin. I tend to switch people to Barrier Balance Creamy Cleanser by Face Reality. If your skin is angry, I promise it will love this cleanser.

• Irritated skin is just like another part of your body being inflamed - don’t be afraid to ice! You can use an ice roller, but truly just a piece of ice moved around the skin for 60 seconds is amazing for inflammation. Don’t sleep on this step!

• If a client is experiencing dermatitis, inflamed acne, rashes, or rosacea, I like to put them on SIV as a second step. SIV is good bacteria that when applied to the skin, will overtake the bad bacteria that is causing these types of inflammation. You just need 1-2 drops on damp skin AM &PM after cleansing. Some people think it has a funky smell, but just trust the process.

• If a client is experiencing texture and general redness, we will put them on moisture balance toner morning and night right after cleansing.

  

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A common question we are getting right now is what is the difference between SIV and Hydrobiome from Epicutis. I kind of explained that SIV is actually good bacteria. Think of it like taking a probiotic for your gut. Hydrobiome is a serum that actually balances the biome of the skin. This is better for managing oil production and congestion/texture. If you feel like you are dry and oily at the same time or have enlarged pores and/or lots of texture, I would reach for Hydrobiome. If you have more rashy, irritated, dermatitis or rosacea - prone skin, I would reach for SIV.

In your routine, Hydrobiome would be your first step after cleansing and toning. It should be applied before Lipid Serum.

After one of these treatment products, it’s important that you are using a gentle moisturizer that you can layer on thick if needed. Barrier care gel cream is perfect for this. A thin layer can go under makeup/SPF and a thicker layer can be slept in. This moisturizer aids in the recovery of the skin and is really soothing and gentle. Clients loveee this one!

Finally, if your skin is compromised, please please use a 100% mineral sunscreen. Chemical filters can attract heat to the skin, making it more susceptible to irritations and damage. We are loving Colorescience at the clinic right now. Their clinicals show that the protection that they offer is truly the best on the market. All of the sunscreen on Higgy Skin is 100% mineral. We are always here if you have questions! Never hesitate to reach out and remember that we offer virtual consultations.

Finally, remember you are now able to shop Skinbetter directly on our website. We also added a new line called Cyspera that is specifically created for stubborn pigment like melasma. This includes old pigment, young pigment, hyperpigmentation, discoloration and melasma. We will create a video post on our Instagram to explain this further, but like I said above, please reach out if you think you are a candidate or have any questions.

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First, the universal no-no list:

• Salicylic acid in percentage greater than 2.5%

• Benzoyl peroxide in percentage greater than 2.5%

• Retinol and any derivatives

• Hydroquinone

• Chemical sunscreens (specifically with filter Oxybenzone)

• Formaldehyde (often a preservative that is easy to avoid)

  

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Most clients who are using a salicylic acid, can be switched to a mandelic or glycolic with really no disruption in their routine. If you are on a salicylic acid due to oil production, I would add in a toner like moisture balance toner by Face Reality. You also can start to use a mask a few times a week. We like the Soothing Clay mask from Face Reality to help balance oil and prevent breakouts. All available to shop in person and my website!

If you are struggling with fine lines, obviously Botox is also a no-no, but there is still a lot we can do. My clients and I swear by Lines from Skinbetter. This is a smart neuropeptide, which can help direct your muscles not to work as hard, softening fine lines over time. I also face tape at least 4 nights a week. I recommend tape over silicone patches, because we want to make sure that we are actually getting to the muscle, which tape does while silicone patches are just sitting on the skin. I personally use Mintier!

A really common symptom of pregnancy and one that I personally deal with each time, is body acne. The first thing to do is to make sure that none of your hair or body products have pore clogging ingredients. The second thing that you can do is incorporate the L-Mandelic Face and Body scrub into your body care routine. I have tried a lot of body washes and this is the only one that moved the needle for me. You do have to have a consultation for this product, so please email me if you’d like to purchase.

Red light masks are perfectly safe to use on your face. They are not recommended to use on a bare belly in pregnancy as side effects for belly use are not studied, but using directly on the face is totally fine! Red light can help with inflammation (from breakouts or pigment) and it can also add to your collagen “bank” helping your skin stay strong and age well over time.

Since it is not recommended to use retinol while in pregnancy, I would try to make sure that you are getting some form of cellular turnover twice a day. This can be from a serum, toner, or mask.

Below is a recommended AM/PM routine for acne prone, pregnant skin with pigment prevention:

AM -

• Refining Foam cleanser You’re now able to shop directly through Higgy Skin’s website for all SkinBetter products :) YAY!!!

• Moisture balance toner

• 5% mandelic acid - the best for acne!

• Vivid brightening - a must for melasma/pigment.

• SPF

PM -

• Gentle Gel Cleanser then Refining Foam cleanser

• Moisture balance toner or active peel pads 2-3x a week

• 1/2 of a pump of Lines (where you see stagnant lines) - I used this every night with Winnie!

• Hydrobiome serum

• Vivid brightening

• Trio - the most luxurious moisturizer ever

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1. I am an esthetician, not a nutritionist or a doctor so everything I know about this topic is related to skin and not your actual labs, health, etc. I always recommend getting bloodwork done and speaking with a doctor if you feel like something is off.

2. If you do not want to talk about diet, then we don’t have to.

3. I do not go over these factors with clients who are pregnant or breastfeeding because baby is more important than skin.

Now, broadly, there are some things that we can be doing to keep our skin healthy from the inside out.

• Drinking water matters. I feel like we used to roll our eyes when celebrities would say they drink water for glowing skin, but it really does contribute. I always say that dry skin is aging skin, and our skin can be dry when we are dehydrated internally as well as externally. This is your reminder to DRINK MORE WATER!

• Dairy can cause breakouts and is one of the number one culprits for a lot of clients. The protein in dairy can interact with some peoples’ oil production and lead to those juicy breakouts mainly around the area where you would have a goatee. The good news about dairy is that it is one of the first breakouts to show up (within 12 hours of consumption) so it is easy to figure out if dairy is one of your triggers. It doesn’t mean that you never get to have dairy again, but it can be something to be mindful of. For lots of clients, limiting their dairy consumption and preparing for a breakout if you do eat it can be really helpful.

• Sugar can be another food that can cause breakouts when eaten in excess. You don’t have to give up sugar completely. I like reminding clients of two things: 1) the devil is in the dosage with food 2) stress makes your skin worse than a food ever could. If monitoring how much sugar you eat stresses you out, that’s going to make your skin far worse. Actually, stress breakouts and sugar breakouts look really similar, too. Sugar breakouts tend to be more textured and seen more on the forehead and the temples. If you think a food could be breaking you out, I always recommending eliminating one food group at a time and seeing if your skin gets better. Do this when nothing else in your life or skincare routine has changed and make sure you only do this with one food at a time.

• The last thing I bet you don’t want to hear is how important sleep is. Stress causes breakouts and when we are not sleeping our body can interpret that as stress. I know that I personally see an influx in acne when I have a fun weekend or am up with the baby. These breakouts can feel random and like they don’t have a pattern, but a lot of them also show up on the forehead and temple area. That can be known as the “cortisol” zone, so be careful of not sleeping and having a lot of caffeine - that is a cortisol nightmare.

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To help with some of these lifestyle culprits, there are a few things we can do to help:

• I like adding electrolytes to my water, LMNT are my favorite, but if you are sensitive to stevia or have a high sodium diet already, I would lean towards getting unflavored mineral drops.

• If you are going to have dairy, make sure you consistently have a probiotic. Digestive enzymes can help too! Digestive enzymes are a great supplement to keep on hand because they can help your body digest foods that might otherwise be difficult. Red meat, leafy greens, and gluten are other examples where digestive enzymes can come in handy.

• Try to keep stress down in general. A hot cup of tea can be really helpful, bonus points if it is spearmint tea. There has been some evidence that two cups of spearmint tea per day can help with hormonal acne.

• Proper sleep starts with consistency. Go to bed at a normal time each day and try adding in magnesium to relax your muscles and get into a deep sleep.

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Other things to check:

• All of your supplements:

  • Check your supplements for stevia, especially if you’re consuming it multiple times throughout the day. This can be in protein powder, electrolytes, drink mixes, protein bars, etc. Look for whey protein and switch to beef, bone broth, or nut based. Make sure that the DV% for B6, B12, and Biotin is less than 150%. This is the hardest for prenatals. I have a list of acne safe prenatals, but always run yours by your doctor. A healthy baby is more important than acne.

  • Energy drinks are another sneaky place to check your vitamin intake. Many contain extremely high amounts of B vitamins, especially B6 and B12, which I like to look at when assessing acne. So far the only energy drink that I have found to not have an exorbitant amount of biotin are the Bloom ones. Those seem to be totally fine.

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Let’s face it, we’re going to break out. Here’s what helps

My favorite spot treatment

My favorite pimple patches are the Face Reality ones! Email me to purchase!

If you’d like a customized routine, please schedule a virtual!

If you are dealing with more acne in the summer months, it probably means that your skin is producing a little more oil in the humidity. This congestion tends to appear around the forehead, nose and cheeks - generally where we see some larger pores. If this feels like you, think about adding a Salicylic Acid into your routine. This would take the place of a mandelic or a glycolic. You can also add a retinol into your nighttime routine. I hear from so many clients who are hesitant to use retinol during the summer, but the good news is you absolutely can! As long as you're cleansing your skin each morning and applying sunscreen daily, it's perfectly safe to use a retinol at night. If you are dealing with new acne, I would try Clearing Serum.

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Another option is a toner. These are sneaky skincare products that can actually pack a big punch. If you are not pregnant or breastfeeding, start with Sal - C Toner, if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, start with Moisture Balance Toner. You can incorporate these once a day and then build up to morning and night.

You can also talk to your provider about upping the strength of your active. If you are using a low percentage, try a medium one. If you aren’t using benzoyl peroxide or retinol yet, try adding that in. Face Reality’s Acne Med 2.5% is actually a pregnancy safe benzoyl peroxide that gets us really good results with acne!

The final product that we can talk about adding in is Hydrobiome serum. This is what I have been using during my pregnancy to keep my skin clear. This serum balances the biome of the skin where the bacteria that creates acne lives. This is especially beneficial during pregnancy, when your skin is going through so many hormonal changes. I LOVE this product. This regulates oil production so you don’t get too oily or too dry. When your biome is regulated in this way, it prevents breakouts and makes pores appear smaller because they aren’t producing excess oil and they are staying clear.

My top sunscreen picks:

Choosing a sunscreen that will protect the skin, not clog pores, and feels good is super important. I do have a top 3 that we carry in clinic and no matter what other kinds I try, I always come back to one of these.

1. Tone Smart - This is our top selling sunscreen and for good reason. It adjusts to your skin tone (anyone Fitz 2-5) and the coverage is pretty full, so a lot of people use this as their foundation. It is SPF 75 and water resistant so it’s perfect for a full day at the beach or the pool. It is also 100% mineral, which is great if you deal with pigment. Truly this one is one of a kind. We are also huge fans of the Tone Smart SPF 68 Sunscreen Compact!

2. Colorescience Glow - This actually does make your skin glow! I like to wear it underneath makeup as a base or on its own for a nice lighter coverage glow.

3. Lipid Shield - This is for the person who doesn’t like sunscreen. It feels like a lightweight slightly tinted moisturizer and it has true skincare benefits. Not only is it 100% but it has TSC which is Epicutis’s patented ingredient that protects from environmental damage like blue light and free radicals. You need a teeny tiny amount of this sunscreen to get the coverage you need so a bottle lasts a long time, too.

If you are wearing one of these (or any SPF), don’t be afraid to use an active product in the morning to continue to achieve your results.

If you are dealing with acne, here is an example routine:

AM

1. Cleanse - Refining Foam Cleanser

2. Tone - Sal C Toner

3. Hydrate - Restorative HA

4. Protect - Lipid Shield

PM

1. Double Cleanse - Ultra Gentle Gel

2. Treat - Clearing Serum

3. Hydrate - Barrier Care Gel Cream

4. Treat - 2.5% Acne Med

*to make this pregnancy safe, swap the Sal - C for Moisture Balance and Clearing Serum for 8% Mandelic.

If you are dealing with melasma, here is an example pregnancy safe routine:

AM

1. Cleansing Gel

2. Eventone Intensive

3. Vivid Brightening

4. ToneSmart or Glow

PM

1. Cleansing Gel 2x

2. Bioclear

3. Eventone Intensive

4. Transformation Cream

Anything out of stock, will be restocked tomorrow!

If you’d like a customized skincare routine tailored to your skin and your stage of life (or pregnancy!), we’d love to help. Reach out to us, and we’ll create a routine that’s right for you <3

The top culprit of dull skin in the summer is air conditioning. Air conditioning can dry out our skin more than almost anything. The key is to not turn your humidifier off. Just because it is humid outside, it’s still going to be dry inside! Similarly, people tend to think they need less moisture when it is warm and humid.

Skincare tips to remember:

• Make sure to continue moisturizing, but you can switch from your heavy cream to something more lightweight. Don’t be afraid to add something like Restorative HA - a dual weigh hyaluronic acid, which plays well with just about any routine. It also has Augustache Mexicana in it, which can actually lower the temperature of the skin to help with summertime induced inflammation. Additionally, switching from a thicker cream to a more lightweight moisturizer like Barrier Care Gel Cream or Transformation Cream are great options. Transformation Cream is packed with peptides and growth factors for an extra anti aging, plumping boost.

• Another huge culprit of dull skin is not changing your type of exfoliation if your skin produces more oil in the summer. Most people need to either change their acid or up the percentage that they are using. Your provider can help you figure out the best move there. Remember, what you do at home twice a day is far more important than a facial once a month. Build a consistent at-home routine, and the healthy, hydrated glow will follow.

• It’s also important to remember that external skin conditions can be a sign of internal inflammation. If you are breaking out more or feeling dull, it also could be a sign that you are enjoying yourself and that’s amazing! Give yourself some grace with travel and holidays and if you need a little boost, remember that you can ice twice a day. You just need an ice cube, nothing fancy. Additionally, you could add in some peel pads 1x a week or a treatment mask at home. Finally, focus on hydrating internally a lot, too. I like to try to add in a hydration packet once a day to really make sure that I am getting enough.

• When you are outside, make sure you apply and reapply your sunscreen. Reapplication is really important for those long days outdoors. SPF can wear off after 2+ hours and even sooner if you are doing a water activity. Sunscreen is your main source of prevention for pigment and aging, so if you do nothing else, focus on this! I love the Tonesmart compact for reapplying on the face! It’s so easy, SPF 68 and makes your skin look like a filter!

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Your routine for glowy, hydrated summer skin:

AM -

1. Cleansing Gel

2. Bioclear or 8% Mandelic

3. Restorative HA

4. Alto Defense

5. Colorescience Glow

PM -

1. Cleansing Gel

2. Bioclear or 8% mandelic

3. Restorative HA

4. Barrier Gel Cream

5. Sulfur Spot treatment

The final thing I want to mention in the sunnier months is that your skincare is designed to protect you from the elements as much as heal your skin overnight. Don’t skip your morning routine! I see people doing this a lot in the summertime. As long as you are wearing your sunscreen, there is no need to skip any steps just because you are outside more.

As always, your providers are here to walk you through it all!

In office treatments are going to get you the fastest results, unlike most skin concerns. My favorite treatment that has given us the best results is PRX with micro needling. This treatment takes 45 minutes to an hour and you’re completely numb so it is pain free. We do a layer of PRX and then we microneedle it into the skin. PRX is a topical bio stimulator so it makes the results of micro needling even better! We can get you a similar outcome from six microneedling sessions in just four of these. It also tackles pigment a little bit more. If you are pregnant or breast feeding, you cannot do this combination so we would do micro needling with a light peel and no numbing cream, as long as you are cleared by your doctor.

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A common myth is that you cannot microneedle over active acne, I disagree! You just need to know how. I went to an advanced course to learn a protocol on exactly how to do this, and I feel really confident in doing so. If your acne has not been treated with any people or any home care, I would not start with micro needling. Please make sure you are going to a trusted provider that has experience in this, otherwise, you can damage the skin barrier and make your acne worse.

Just like a scar from an injury, there are things that we can do at home to help with your scarring outcome.

1. Do not forget to wear sunscreen make sure it is mineral and reapply it. Sunscreen is your number one tool against the scar lasting for a long time and it’s going to help with pigment because the sun can make any pigment darker.

2. A retinol is your best home care option. This advanced cellular turnover can aid in the healing of scarring and pigment. If you are pregnant or breast feeding, we have options for you, it just depends on the type of scarring you are experiencing. Ask us in person or shoot us an email!

3. We want to add in peptides! Right now, Higgy carries some called contour. They are actually quite powerful and I am looking for one more option so if you’ve tried some peptides that you love, please send me a message!

Ideal routine -

AM -

• Cleanser

• Contour - Email me to purchase!

• Eventone Intensive

• Tonesmart

PM -

• Cleanser

• Contour

• Alpharet Clearing Serum

• Transformation Cream - Email me to purchase!

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I think that one of the biggest mistakes that people make when they’re clearing their acne scars is that they don’t treat them at all and hope that they go away on their own. Of course they absolutely could! However, if you leave them untreated for too long and they start to bother you years down the line, they are much harder to treat the longer they have been untreated. It is so much better to tackle them early and often so we can get you the best results possible. As we age, most people are going to get more pigment in their skin, regardless, so it’s nice to take care of any pigment that we see as soon as we see it. Pitted scars that have been there for a long time are especially hard to treat. You will get much quicker results if they are fresh and you treat them from the beginning.

If the pigment left over from your acne bothers you as much as your acne, we can treat both at once. You might just see slower progress with each. I prefer to get rid of the acne first and then treat the scarring. Most acne products are going to treat pigment no matter what. We can put you on a peptide whenever you would like, most are acne safe and can help heal acne too. We truly do have skincare options for every concern. If you’re feeling stuck, not seeing the progress you’d like, or are ready to start your clear skin journey, please reach out! We’d love to help.

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1. Cleanse - our go to is Ultra Gentle Gel cleanser from Face Reality. If you are more sensitive, I would start with Creamy Barrier Balance Cleanser from Face Reality.

2. Tone - toners are underrated when they are used correctly. A toner is meant to balance the skin in order to help products absorb more effectively into the skin. I would recommend Moisture Balance by Face Reality.

3. Target - I like to start with mandelic acid for clients experiencing active acne. If you are not used to an acid on your skin, start with 5%. If you have been exfoliating regularly, go up to the 8% option.

4. Moisturize - Barrier Balance Gel Cream! This is our GO TO moisturizer for anyone, acne or not. It is simple, acne safe, and ultra healing and calming. I can’t think of someone I wouldn’t recommend this for. It is truly worth the hype.

5. Treat - I have always been hesitant of benzoyl peroxide. I have felt in the past that it can be too harsh for most people’s skin. The new acne med formulation from Face Reality exceeds the hype of a traditional benzoyl peroxide. It truly calms inflamed skin and acne and helps for breakouts to heal faster. I would start with 2.5%.

Going back to no miracle acne products - there is no one miracle product and progress can take time. I have had clients clear in 2-4 weeks and I’ve had some where it takes up to a year. Our skin is ever changing and so is our life. There are a lot of factors out of our control when it comes to healing the skin. Remember that a product might not work forever and you may need to change the strength or type of acne treatment that you are doing. Before you throw in the towel, ask your provider to change your routine. Make sure you use the entire bottle of your recommended product before wanting to try something new. The only exception is if you are experiencing any sort of rash or irritation. Lots of times skin gets worse in the first couple of weeks before it gets better. That is completely normal. It is frustrating, but it is normal.

One of the most common mistakes I see in clients who are trying to heal their acne themselves is that they use too many actives at once. Start low and slow. Exfoliate once per day to begin and then you can build as your skin adjusts. If you add too much too quickly, you can cause an inflamed/irritated barrier which will create a whole new issue to solve. If you are trying to do this without the guidance of a professional, I also would avoid anything without clinical data to back it up. Products can legally claim a lot of things about the skin and you need to be careful that you are not getting duped. A lot of these products without data end up being incredibly irritating too.

If you feel overwhelmed and can only start with one new product, I would go for a specific acid for your acne.

• If you have red, angry, inflamed breakouts, start with mandelic.

• If you have skin colored bumps, start with glycolic. Use it once a day to begin and then you can work up to twice per day.

If you are trying to clear your acne, make sure you are checking everything you use. There are really sneaky things that can clog your pores and actually make your skin worse. Check your makeup, hair care, supplements, how often you touch your face during the day and what your partner uses on their skin. There are so many easy things that you can take out of your routine before you ever add anything new!

If you feel overwhelmed, we’re here to help! A virtual is the perfect opportunity to talk about all of your concerns and then have Higgy Skin be a resource for you over email after. I don’t have a time limit on my a so we can walk through every life stage and continue to change your products when you feel stuck. Book yours here!

Number one thing to do is ALWAYS check for pore cloggers! If you are putting things on your skin that are clogging your pores, then you are going to get clogged pores. I don’t really know how else to say it (lol). There are lots of resources on the internet and I always like to remind clients that the formulation matters. If the pore clogger ingredient is towards the bottom of the ingredient list, it is more than likely not causing issues. Focus on ingredients that are listed near the top, as they’re present in higher concentrations, and try eliminating products that contain them from your routine. Everything on our website is acne safe and you can find all of my acne safe lists here and a pore clogger checker I use here.

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Another sneaky thing that can cause texture of different kinds is if you are not exfoliating correctly or over doing it. Make sure that the acids you are using agree with your skin for daily use. If you cannot use it daily, it is more than likely too strong and could potentially be making things worse rather than better. You can consult with your provider or someone at Higgy Skin to make sure that you are using the right things for your skin! If you are new to exfoliating, start with something gentle like 5% glycolic or mandelic. Use it once a day and follow with hydration products. After a few days, you can work up to using an acid multiple times a day or upping the percentage. If you are experiencing skin colored bumps, glycolic in the morning and a retinol at night is the BEST combination. We love Alphabet or Intensive Alphabet because it is retinoic acid that is encapsulated in glycolic acid so it is double as effective for this specific type of acne.

An ideal routine is:

AM-

1. Cleanse

2. Moisture balance toner

3. 5% glycolic from Face Reality

4. Barrier Gel Cream moisturizer

5. SPF

PM-

1. Double cleanse

2. Moisture balance toner

3. Alpharet

4. Barrier Gel Cream moisturizer

Wash your face thoroughly AM and PM and follow with these routines and your texture will improve slowly but surely. That’s another thing - a double cleanse at night will make a huge difference. We do not want anything to oxidize on the skin overnight and clog pores. Washing your face thoroughly is a simple and inexpensive way to keep your skin really clear. Aim for about 60 seconds of cleansing AM and PM.

Finally, get extractions! Get them from someone experienced. I would utilize the Face Reality acne expert finder on their website to find someone in your area. The peels from Face Reality are also really really helpful and if you can get extractions every 3-4 weeks, you will see a massive difference in the amount of congestion and texture on the skin.

Chin/mouth

Internally, this can be hormonal. I especially see this with people who tend to break out the week before their period starts. If this is you, try drinking two cups of spearmint tea per day and add in a clay mask or extra toner the weeks leading up to your period to control oil. The chin/mouth is also the dairy zone! Dairy shows up about 12 hours after you consume something with it, so it is really easy to spot! They are the first breakouts to show up and the first to go away. You don’t necessarily have to cut it out completely, but it is a good thing to watch for so you can keep breakouts as minimal as possible. Externally, check your toothpaste for SLS and your partner’s facial products, especially if they have facial hair! I would opt for any of these!

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Cheeks

Internally, this can also be a hormone zone, especially along the jawline. I would pay attention to when you break out around your cycle and bring that to your OBGYN or another doctor that you work with. It can be helpful if you are choosing a different form of birth control or trying to get on different supplements. Cheeks can also come from eating gluten and eggs in excess. Those are the most common inflammatory foods for that area; however, I always give clients the antidote that I was breaking out and had no idea why - I cut out gluten, eggs, and dairy! What had happened was that I replaced all of those with almond based alternatives and my body wasn’t able to digest almonds anymore. The devil is in the dosage, so it is more about how much and how often you eat certain foods and less about the food itself in my opinion. But back to the point - gluten and eggs are very common for cheek breakouts. Additionally, checking your makeup, washing your makeup brushes, and making sure you do not touch your face during the day are really important for keeping that area clear. A hypochlorous acid is great to spray throughout the day too! Finally, check your supplements for excess Biotin, those breakouts tend to show up here too!

Forehead/Hairline

Internally, this is the cortisol zone - excess stress, excess exercise without proper rest, and not enough sleep can all contribute to breakouts here. Cortisol can also come from too much caffeine. If you are having energy drinks or more than two cups of coffee per day, try taking a break and see how your forehead clears up. Vitamins B6 and B12 in percentages more than 150% of DV can also cause congestion on the forehead. Externally, it is the most common place for fungal acne to show up - if you have used an old towel or sweat a lot and not washed your face afterwards, expect some congestion there. Make sure that you either wash your face directly after working out or you use a hypochlorous acid spray to kill the bacteria. Check your shampoo and conditioner for pore clogging ingredients and wash any hats that you wear! Making sure your hair care is acne safe too is a great idea!

Neck

The neck can also be a hormone zone and I actually see it a ton with people who eat a lot of whey. If you are breaking out here, make sure that your protein of choice is not whey based. This is another place that shampoo and conditioner or leave in products for hair can play a big role so make sure that you check those too!

Back

Guess what? Another hormone zone! I personally broke out here the most when I was pregnant and I have a lot of pregnant clients who breakout the most on their backs as well. It can be a really frustrating place to breakout, but in pregnancy I will say it usually subsides after the first trimester. Check your shampoo and conditioner and body products too! Also, make sure you are not hanging out in your sports bra too long and that your detergent is fragrance free and you do not use dryer sheets. We can treat the body more aggressively than the face, so I like having clients use a scrub every day! We recommend the L-mandelic from face reality and you can email to purchase. It has cleared up so many of my clients back acne.

Here are some resources that I have found:

Acne safe prenatals

Acne safe makeup

We can also treat hormonal acne topically! It obviously just misses the root cause, but the appropriate amount of exfoliation and regulating oil production can make a huge difference. It is very individual, so if you have questions please book a virtual!

Melasma has become my personal number one skin concern in adulthood and I have truly tried every single product on the market to see what actually works. Let’s break down my gold standard melasma routine.

At Higgy Skin, we developed a melasma bootcamp with in office treatments designed to help lessen your pigment without causing any bounce back. You might notice if you get a laser or a peel, your melasma will be gone for a while but will almost always come back. This is known as Bounceback pigment and is really common with more invasive treatments. We keep things surface level and consistent. Book with us here!

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1. Marini Management system. Think of this as the foundation of your routine. It is a 5 step system that includes a cleanser, vitamin C, Acid blend (bioclear), moisturizer, and SPF. The system comes numbered and all of the products are on a pump system so they run out at the same time if you use one pump am and pm (brilliant). I do slightly modify the system as the cleanser that comes inside is Bioglyolic and really active. I like to use it as a treatment in the morning on dry skin with dry hands then at night, you can use any gentle cleanser to remove your day. This system is pregnancy safe and also great for acne. It really treats so many concerns at once which is why so many of my clients love it!

2. A tyrosinase inhibitor. This is what actually fights and prevent melanocytes at the surface of the skin. We are all born with the same number of melanocytes under our skin’s surface. Sun exposure, diet, hormones, and other inflammatory triggers can cause them to come to the surface and create darker pigment. A tyrosinase inhibitor is a product category designed to prevent this from happening. We have two at Higgy Skin: Eventone Intensive and Vivid Brightening.

• The easiest way to choose between the two is if you are more oily/acne prone, go for Eventone Intensive.

• If you are more dry go for Vivid Brightening.

Vivid is part of Hydrinity Skincare, which is known for their dual weight hyaluronic acid, which is included in Vivid’s formula so it is more moisturizing. One other standout is if your melasma seems to be more triggered by heat or you live somewhere really hot, reach for Vivid because it has an ingredient that can actually lower the temperature of the skin. Eventone Intensive targets all 5 pathways to pigment and has tranexemic acid, so if you notice your melasma more on your forehead, try Eventone Intensive. You want to use either of these products after step 3 in the Skincare Management system. Both of these are pregnancy and acne safe.

4. Retinol. Obviously this is the step that you would skip if you are pregnant, but this can be the most impactful when it comes to a skincare routine. There is one retinol above the rest for pigment and it is Luminate XC from Marini Skin. This one went head to head with 4% hydroquinone and won. The difference is that it does not damage the barrier and you do not have to cycle on or off of it, you can use it forever! If you are using your tyrosinase inhibitor in the AM, this goes after step 3 in the PM. When I say this changed my skin it CHANGED my skin.

5. Tinted SPF. The tint is important! A tinted SPF creates even more of a physical shield from the sun. We love ToneSmart because it is SPF 75, which is the highest that I have seen. It is water and sweat resistant and is also acne safe :)

I know this feels overwhelming and these products are not cheap. The Marini System is designed to last about 8 weeks, Eventone Intensive and Vivid brightening are designed to last close to 6 months if you use just one pump per day, and Luminate XC will last around 4-5 months with one pump per day!

Other things to avoid this summer if you are prone to melasma -

• Extra heat. Do not do heated workout classes. If your skin gets hot, then go inside and ice it. Ice will prevent melanocytes from coming to the surface and keep your pigment down.

• Avoid direct sun. Always wear a wide brim hat and sit under an umbrella if that is an option.

• Try to avoid inflammatory foods like alcohol, processed sugar, high processed gluten, etc. For someone people this can really trigger that inflammatory response.

• If you are cleared by your doctor, taking a tranexemic acid pill orally can also be really helpful. Depending on your health conditions, some doctors might not recommend it.

• Reapply your SPF every two hours! Always!

Remember the big no no’s - hydroquinone, tretinoin/retinol, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid in concentrations greater than 2.5%. If you are shopping on the Higgy Skin website, the only things that I would not use while pregnant are Marini Luminate XC, Retaxome, Age Internvention Duality, Face Reality Sal C toner, and Salicylic + Serum. Everything else is fair game!

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When we have a pregnant client come in, we always have a safe alternative for them no matter what their concerns.

Let’s go over some of the most popular ones:

• A pregnant client looking for a Botox alternative - Lines from Skinbetter as a spot treatment where you see horizontal Lines. This will be the very first step in your skincare routine. This product is filled with neuropeptides, which are really smart and can help tell muscles not to work as hard. Combine this with the Mintier Face Tape and say bye bye to new wrinkles.

• A pregnant client who was using a retinol and has pigment will have two options. Switch completely to the Marini Management system, which truly has your ENTIRE skincare routine, or we will do Eventone Intesnvie +Bioclear, depending on how severe the pigment is.

A pregnant client using a retinol with acne, we will switch to a higher percentage of mandelic acid and maybe combine it with another acid, depending on how resilient their skin is. You also can use the Acne Med 2.5%, which gives AMAZING results for acne.

We are told that when we are pregnant, we have a ~glow~ about us. When I was pregnant with Winnie, I certainly didn’t feel that way, especially in the first trimester! There are a lot of things we can do to keep our skin glowing. It can be like having a little spa day at home!

1. Lipid Serum - this product is truly amazing. It is EWG verified, so it is about as clean ingredient-wise as you can possibly get. You just apply a pea sized amount as your fist step in your routine and watch your skin shine! This is truly a can’t live without product in my routine.

2. Active Peel System - if you are a peel pad girly but can’t use your favorite ones while pregnant or breastfeeding, try this system. You can use the peel pads about 2x a week and continue with your normal routine afterwards.

3. If you are already using an acid in your routine, add Glowtone in afterwards. It works great on its own, but even better when combined with another active! Glowtone is perfect for evening out texture and specifically targets redness in the skin.

While you are pregnant, it is normal for your skin to change by the day. It’s hard to remember in the moment, but you will look back and realize how temporary and fast pregnancy is! Your skin will go back to the way it was, it might even be normal tomorrow, but we are always here to hep guide you!

Also, remember that there are acne safe prenatal options as long as your doctor is okay with them. We have a whole list!

MAY/JUNE PROMO!

If you’ve been thinking about microneedling, now is the time!
Purchase a 3 pack of SkinPen treatments by June 30 and receive $100 back!

Tretinoin is considered the gold standard of a retinol. When you do research, you do see that it basically set the standard for retinol because it is the first medically backed product that uses retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the form of vitamin a (retinol) that does not need to be converted in the skin to achieve results, making it the most potent. That is why you get the “retinol uglies” - it is STRONG! If you can handle it, you can get results, but it comes with a trade off of a compromised barrier, flaking, peeling, and sometimes more acne. With something this powerful, most people can’t use it every day and when you alternate often, that can lead to an almost endless continuous purge.

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Retinol is known for increasing your cellular turnover, which is a good thing. Some people with acne or rosacea, or more sensitive skin in general cannot handle the amount of cellular turnover that happens when using a tretinoin. I personally don’t like recommending it for acne patients because of how much it can sensitize the skin. In my 6 years of seeing clients, I have never had an acne client report that Tretinoin is what healed their acne. If you have resilient skin and aging is your main concern, then go for it and see if you can handle it!

At Higgy Skin we offer tretinoin grade retinols, but they are encapsulated differently and that’s what makes them more tolerable. Plus, if you have acne it won’t harm the skin or cause more breakouts. The encapsulation matters because it can slow the release of retinoic acid, keeping the potency but monitoring the intensity. Encapsulations can also target different concerns.

For example:

• Clearing Serum is tretinoin grade retinoic acid encapsulated in salicylic acid, making it ideal for more oily or acne prone skin.

• Luminate XC is a retinoic acid formula (tretinoin-strength) encapsulated in peptides and paired with brightening ingredients like hexylresorcinol, making it a more tolerable alternative to hydroquinone and traditional tretinoin for targeting pigmentation.

• Retaxome is a the same retinoic acid but it is encapsulated in exosomes so it not only goes deeper into the skin than a traditional retinol/tretinoin could, it also has more advanced anti aging properties and is even slower release. It is the best suited for super sensitive skin.

How to use:

Most of these retinols will be your last step before moisturizer in your routine. The only exception is Retaxome. When you use a product with exosomes in it, it should always be the very first step in your routine. Even before Lipid Serum by Epicutis if you use that at night.

The goal of a retinol is to be able to apply it every single night I know people who have worked up to this with a Tretinoin, but it is easier and you get less side effects with a more sophisticated delivery system. I usually do recommend starting low and slow, maybe apply a retinol every other night until you are able to use it every night without irritation of the skin. That means no redness, flakiness, or dry skin. If you cannot work up to this, then your retinol is too strong and your provider needs to help you find one that is less aggressive.

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, it is usually not recommended to use a retinol. In this case, use an exfoliant at night and in the morning. I like having clients use Mandelic Acid in the morning and Bioclear in the evening which give really great results! We also can supplement with treatment masks. We have so many options that can target specific concerns coming soon to the website but available via email.

As always, please reach out to justskinjess@gmail.com <3

Here are my top three items that everyone should have in their routine:

1. A pH balancing cleanser - balancing the skin’s pH is what creates a healthy barrier. Healthy barriers lead to more balanced skin. No more extra dry, extra oily or feeling dry then oily, you’re just balanced. When your skin is balanced, it is more prepared to absorb products. This makes your entire routine more effective. Your cleanser is not balancing your skin correctly when your skin does not feel comfortable throughout the day. This can feel like tight/dry, extra oily, or even just oily in the Tzone.

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Some of my favorite balancing cleansers are:

• Cleansing complex from iS Clinical

• TAHNYC gentle cleanser

• Refining Foam Cleanser from Skinbetter

2. An acid that you can use every day. If you cannot use your active every day… it’s too strong. So often I see clients using an acid once a week for fear of drying out their skin. When this happens, you almost go through a never ending purging phase where your skin never adjusts to exfoliation. This can be a really frustrating cycle. The best way to over come this is to use a lower percentage active every single day and have your skin adjust to being able to handle more.

My favorite places to start are:

• 5% Mandelic Acid

• Sal - C Toner

• Azaleic Acid

3. A good moisturizer. So often we are scared of moisturizers when we have acne. This can lead to major imbalances and barrier disruption. Often, oily skin is a sign of dehydration and you need a moisturizer that is actually going to penetrate and hydrate, not just sit on top of the skin as an occlusive barrier. To properly hydrate the skin, don’t think thick, think thin! Can’t give up your thick cream? You really don’t have to, just add in the hydrating serum like HydraRemedy and then apply your thick cream on top.

Here are some of our favorite acne safe, deeply hydrating moisturizers:

• Barrier Care Gel Cream

• Trio by SkinBetter

• Oxygen Cream

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Other things not to skip:

An SPF! Make sure it is mineral protection to help the most with pigment. When people want an anti-aging cream, they have to start with sunscreen. There is truly no point to anything else if you’re not going to protect your investment. We have so many favorites on our website, but I would say our number one is ToneSmart (for good reason!). It is acne safe, water resistant, and adjusts to your skin tone. It basically blends perfectly into the skin and blurs. Think the best foundation of your life with SPF 75.

Once you hit 30, it’s probably time to think about adding in a retinol. Choosing the right retinol is like choosing the right acid, you should be able to tolerate it every day and if you can’t, then you need a different one. My dream routine for clients is using an acid in the morning (with SPF) and then a retinol at night. The best starting Retinol is Alpharet. After you have used a whole bottle, we can look at upping the intensity or choosing a more targeted one.

1. It’s annoying, but truly dull skin can be a sign of internal dehydration. There is a reason why celebrities say they drink water for great skin - it actually works. Now, it’s 100% not all that they do to get glowing skin, but it is a main contributor. Our skin is an external reflection of what is going on internally, so internal hydration will be reflected externally, too! Fun fact, most of the time when you have dark circles, this is also a sign of dehydration. Don’t just hydrate with water alone. Add your favorite electrolytes once a day so that the water also has something to bind to. Electrolytes increase absorption of water and your skin loves electrolytes too! Our skin is our largest organ and it’s important to take care of it!

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2. Your skin is dry. I don’t mean dehydrated, which is a skin condition. Dry skin is a skin type. Skin types are what we are born with and they are based off of pore size. If you have almost invisible pores all over the face, you have a dry skin type. Using a hydrating serum and a hydrating acid like Glycolic or Lactic acid every day is going to be your best friend. If your skin is dehydrated, this is a skin condition and we need to focus a little bit more on balancing the skin first. This looks like starting with a really simple, gentle routine and then adding in more exfoliation as your oil production adjusts again. The best way to describe dehydrated skin is that it is almost desert-like. If you’ve noticed that about your skin then you know exactly what I’m talking about. It’s kind of like a “you know it when you see it” situation.

3. You are not exfoliating enough. Use chemical exfoliation every single day. If you can’t use your exfoliant every day, it is too strong for you and you need to change it. Think of your chemical exfoliant like a floor cleaning solution dissolving the dead skin that is on the surface. You know how shiny and glowing your hardwood floors are after you clean them, yeah that can be your skin too, every single day! Just find the right solution for your skin. Book a virtual here if you need help with a routine :)

4. Your products are not penetrating deep enough. This is first of all a formulation issue and why clinical grade skincare is so important. Their delivery systems are studied and proven that the ingredients are going as deep as they need to in order to be effective. When you do not purchase scientifically backed products, we have no idea if they are effective and most of the time they are not using sophisticated delivery systems. That is why I don’t care as much about cleansers and moisturizers - they don’t need to go deep into the skin, active serums do! On the note of cleansers, washing your face in the morning is another way to make sure that your products are effective. If you think that your skin is too dry to wash twice a day, that is a bigger issue of probably not using the right products. We have to wash our faces in the morning for products to work and remove the dead skin cells that occur overnight.

That’s a lot of info!

Let me give you an example of a perfect glowy skin routine:

AM -

• Cleanse

• Lipid Serum or Restorative HA

• Vitamin C - Alto or c-esta

• Moisturizer if necessary

• SPF

PM-

• Double Cleanse

• Acid - Bioclear or Mandelic are my favorites

• Hydraremedy

• Moisturizer

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Looking for the perfect skincare routine for YOUR skin? Schedule a virtual with me and be sure to look for skin tips and example routines on my IG :)

What is it?

Keratosis Pilaris (KP) is a common, harmless, and chronic skin condition caused by excess keratin buildup plugging hair follicles, creating small, rough, dry bumps often described as "chicken skin”.

There are a few things to note about it… First, it is really common and completely harmless. With this specific skin condition, it’s often more frustrating than anything, mainly due to the uneven texture caused by skin colored or slightly red bumps. These bumps are most commonly found on the back of arms, back of legs or thighs, cheeks, and/or butt.

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How does it get there?

Our skin produces something called Keratin. This is a protective protein that our skin does really need. Some people produce too much of it to the point where it can clog up the hair follicle. This is what happens in KP. It is not an infection or breakout, it is a buildup issue.

Acne is different, instead of keratin build up, it is oil build up in the hair follicle. Just like with acne, exfoliation can help, but the type and frequency matters a lot! We can’t just treat this like body acne.

KP responds best to gentle, consistent exfoliation, not aggressive scrubbing.

• Chemical exfoliants (your best friend here):

  • AHAs (like lactic acid, glycolic acid) → smooth + hydrate

  • BHAs (salicylic acid) → help clear the follicle

  • Urea → softens and dissolves keratin buildup

You could use one of these options to start and buildup to all of them or jump right in depending on your skin sensitivity.

What to avoid:

• Harsh physical scrubs (can worsen redness + inflammation)

• Over exfoliating (this often makes KP look angrier/more irritated)

Think of these acids as softening the skin and then dissolving the build up. Not scrubbing the bumps off of your skin. Just like with facial skin care, consistency and tolerability is more important than aggressive treatment.

Is it genetic?

Yes, KP is largely genetic and tends to show up in childhood or when you are teenager. It can still develop in adulthood depending on lifestyle and products, but it’s most often genetic. It is also most common in dry skin and those that are more prone to eczema. Just like with acne and melasma, we cannot cure your KP, but we can manage it and make it less noticeable.

Products are most important for this specific skin condition, here are some things that I would incorporate!

• Bio glycolic cleanser from Marini Skin

• Cerave SA lotion

• Prequel Urea Milk

If you struggle with KP or acne, we’d love to treat you at Higgy Skin. And as mentioned - we’ve moved! You can now find us at our new space:

770 W Hampden Ave, Suite 250 Englewood, CO 80110

We can’t wait to see you <3