Labor Day is almost upon us and nothing says end-of-summer to me like a corndog. I grew up eating microwaved corndogs that my mom would buy in the bulk family-size box from the grocery freezer aisle. Which, don’t get me wrong, are also insanely delicious. There’s just nothing quite like the contrast of soft, sweet cornbread encasing a salty, beefy hotdog. It’s honestly a delight.

And I’m sure that in 2026, store-bought gluten-free corndogs exist somewhere out in the world, but I haven’t seen them on the limited-SKU shelves in the small markets in my Brooklyn neighborhood. So I made my own, and it was actually way easier than you’d think.

I know the big hang-up for me (and probably a lot of other people) is the inconvenience and potential messiness of frying at home. I don’t own an electric deep-fryer (as previously mentioned, small Brooklyn apartment, very limited counter space), so frying always feels a little bit like a big production. But with the right setup, it’s pretty much a breeze.

First off, I can’t stress enough how important it is to really thoroughly dry your hotdogs. Take them out of the package and reaaaaallllly roll them around between a couple layers of paper towels to get all that hotdog juice off of them. This ensures your batter will stick to your dogs. If you want to be extra-sure about getting the batter to adequately adhere, dust the dogs with some additional cornstarch after drying and before dipping.

Secondly, I’ve found that the best container for dipping is a pint glass. Fill the glass to within an inch of the rim with batter and each of your dipped dogs will be perfectly coated. Refill as needed between dipping. And once the batter is mixed, use it immediately—as it sits, it starts to separate slightly, giving you less coverage, as well as creating more sizzle when added to the oil, so have your oil at the proper temperature and your dogs well-dried and skewered before mixing your batter.

Third, you can choose whatever brand of dog you prefer, but I suggest using regular, bun-sized hotdogs—not extra-long, not jumbo. I’ve used cheese-filled before, and those were delicious, but I usually default to Nathan’s Bun-Length Skinless 100% Beef Franks. This isn’t an ad, and I’m not getting paid by Nathan’s (I wish), I just want you to have all the info and hacks at my disposal.

And finally, if you do opt to use a standard 8-pack of hotdogs, you’ll likely have a little bit of batter left over. This recipe doubles as a pretty great hush puppy recipe without the hotdogs, so go ahead and drop spoonfuls of the remaining batter in the oil for a bonus treat.

Using corn flour as a base creates that soft, cake-like pillow around each hotdog, while coarse cornmeal provides extra corn flavor and a satisfying crunch. You don’t have to use Bob’s Red Mill varieties like I do, but you do need both corn flour and meal—subbing in a fine yellow corn meal (the kind you’d use for polenta or grits) for both won’t work.

To make these corndogs dairy-free, you can substitute the buttermilk by whisking 1/2 cup dairy-free plain yogurt of choice with 1/2 cup cool water. And if you don’t want to buy an entire carton of buttermilk, just add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice or white vinegar to a cup of milk, stir, and let it sit at room temp for 5-10 minutes.

Gluten-Free Corndogs

Makes: 8-12 dogs
Total Time: 45 minutes
Special Equipment: 8-12 6-inch wooden skewers; one 4-to-6-quart Dutch oven or deep-fryer; one high-heat probe thermometer; one rimmed baking sheet fitted with a wire rack and/or paper towels; one 16-oz. pint glass; a wire skimmer / spider

2 quarts (0.95 L) neutral, high-heat oil of choice (I always use peanut oil, but vegetable, canola, or grapeseed are good choices as well)
8-12 (12-16 oz.) bun-length hot dogs of choice
1 cup (240 g) finely milled corn flour
2/3 cup (135 g) coarse yellow corn meal
1/3 cup (70 g) cornstarch, plus more for dusting if needed
3 Tbsp. (60 g) sugar
1 1/2 tsp. salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp. baking powder
1 cup (310 g) buttermilk (or 1/2 cup plain dairy-free yogurt + 1/2 cup water)
1 large egg, at room temp
Ketchup & mustard, for serving, if desired

1. Heat the oil (approx. 3-to-4-inches deep) uncovered in a 4- to 6-quart Dutch oven or high-sided heavy pot over medium-high until a thermometer registers 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels and/or a wire rack; set aside.

2. While the oil is heating, remove the hot dogs from their packaging and dry completely with paper towels. Pressing them flat against your work surface with the entire palm of your non-dominant hand, push a skewer pointed-side-first lengthwise into one end of each hotdog about halfway through the interior, keeping 2-to-3 inches of the skewer visible. Set aside uncovered on paper towels.

3. Combine the corn flour through the baking powder in a medium bowl; set aside. In a liquid measuring cup, whisk the buttermilk and the egg until combined. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the corn flour mixture, whisking until a thick, cake-like batter forms. Immediately transfer the batter to a pint glass, leaving an inch of space at the top of the glass.

4. Dip a skewered hot dog into the batter, submerging it completely to coat, and carefully slide it in the hot oil. (If the batter isn’t adhering evenly to the hotdogs, dust them lightly with cornstarch, tapping off any excess before dipping.) Repeat with one or two more hotdogs per batch. Fry, turning as needed, until deep golden brown and crisp all over, 4-5 minutes per batch. Carefully use the wire skimmer to transfer the corndogs to the prepared rimmed sheet. Season lightly with salt, if desired. Repeat with remaining hotdogs and batter, rewhisking and refilling the pint glass as needed.

*If you have any remaining batter leftover after frying the corndogs, you can make some ad hoc hushpuppies on the fly. For bonus flavor, add 1/2 teaspoon onion powder, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 1/4 tsp. garlic powder, and a pinch of cayenne to the batter before frying: Drop 1-to-2 tablespoons of batter into the hot oil. Repeat with the remaining batter. Fry until golden, 4-5 minutes. Use the wire skimmer to transfer to the rimmed sheet, season lightly with salt, and enjoy.

I made it upstate a few weekends back just in time for the end of New York State’s short peach season, and came home with half a dozen luscious, tree-ripe yellow peaches. There weren’t enough for jam, but eating them one-by-one felt unceremonious and anti-climatic. As a kid I lived for strawberry shortcake during the summers, but these days I have an adverse reaction to even small amounts of strawberries, so I’ve missed out on shortcake season for years. Subbing peaches into this favorite summertime treat seemed like the obvious solution to both dilemmas.

The base of this shortcake is a gluten-free sponge I’ve had in my recipe repertoire for awhile now. It’s light and tender, and provides a simple backdrop that allows the sweetness and sunny flavor of the peaches to shine. To ensure your preparation is soy- and corn-free, be sure to use a gluten-free all-purpose mix without those ingredients. I used King Arthur Measure for Measure.

A Note on Peeling Peaches: As much as I love peaches, I detest peach skin. There’s no associated allergy ala Parasite, but the idea of ingesting fuzzy things truly bothers me from a sensory perspective. (Relatedly, if you’re one of those people who, whenever kiwis are discussed, explains that, “You don’t need to peel them, you can just eat the skin,” may all your pens be forever running out of ink and your eyewear perpetually covered in smudges.)

Perhaps you’ve experienced the exquisite satisfaction of halving a ripe peach and discovering that the wooly outer skin peels away from the succulent, juicy fruit in just one or two large swathes. No wrestling with a paring knife or peeler, no blanching or ice bath. Basically no stress, no mess, just like peeling a banana, and as easy as pulling a paper towel off the roll. That’s the sign of a perfectly ripe peach.

This was the case with these peaches, and many others this stonefruit season. If you’re not so lucky to get your peaches within this magical ripeness window, you can carefully help the skin along with a paring knife, or use the blanching method: Cut a shallow “X” on the bottom of each peach, then dunk them in a pot of boiling water for 1-2 minutes. Immediately transfer them to a bowl of ice water for 5 minutes, and the skin should peel off easily.

Gluten-Free Peaches & Cream Shortcake

Makes: 12 servings
Active Time: 1 hour | Suggested Setting Time: 4-6 hours or overnight
Special Equipment: Parchment paper; one 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet; one 9-by-13-inch baking dish; hand or stand mixer

Shortcake:
8 eggs, separated and at room temp
1 1/2 cup (360 g) granulated sugar, divided
1 tsp. vanilla
1 3/4 cup (280 g) gluten-free all-purpose flour blend
1/4 cup (40 g) arrowroot or tapioca starch
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. white vinegar
1 tsp. cream of tartar

Peaches:
6 large, ripe peaches (2.5-3 Lbs.), halved, pitted, peeled, and thinly sliced
1/2 lemon, zested and juiced (approx. 1 tsp. and 1 Tbsp.)
1/4 cup (75 g) granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. peach brandy (optional)
1/2 tsp. vanilla paste or extract
1/4 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
Pinch of salt

Whipped Cream & Assembly:
2 cups (665 g) heavy cream
1/4 cup (45 g) confectioner’s sugar
1 tsp. vanilla paste or extract
1/4 cup (55 g) peach brandy, divided (optional)
Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish, if desired

1. For the Shortcake: Heat the oven to 350°F with the rack in the middle position. Line a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper, allowing several inches to overhang both shorter edges; set aside. Using a whisk or hand mixer, whisk the egg yolks with 1 cup of the sugar and the vanilla in a medium bowl until thick and pale, 3-4 minutes. Sift in the flour, starch, and salt and fold together until a smooth, thick batter forms; set aside.

2. Wipe out a medium mixing or stand mixer bowl with a clean paper towel and the white vinegar. If re-using the hand mixer, thoroughly clean and dry the beaters and wipe with the vinegar. Beat the egg whites and the cream of tartar until soft peaks form, 2-3 minutes. Slowly sift in the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form, 2-3 minutes more.

3. Add 1/4 of the egg whites into the yolk batter, stirring to combine and loosen the mixture. (Don’t worry about deflating the whites with this addition, you’re loosening and tempering the batter to better retain the airiness in the remaining whites.) Gently fold the remaining whites gradually into the batter until a light, spongy batter forms. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared baking sheet. Bake until puffed and lightly golden, and the cake springs back when you lightly indent your finger into the middle, about 20 minutes. Let cool completely.

4. For the Peaches: While the cake bakes, halve, pit, peel, and thinly slice your peaches. Transfer to a medium bowl with the lemon zest and juice, the sugar, brandy (if using), vanilla, nutmeg, and salt. Toss to coat and let sit, loosely covered, at room temperature while the cake cools and you whip the cream.

5. For the Whipped Cream & Assembly: Place a clean medium mixing bowl or bowl of the stand mixer, and your whisk or whisk attachment, in the freezer for 5-10 minutes. While the cake cools and the peaches macerate, combine the cream, confectioner’s sugar, and vanilla in the chilled bowl. Whip on medium speed until soft peaks form, 2-3 minutes. Increase the speed to high and beat until stiff peaks form, about 1 minute more. Use immediately to assemble your cake, or chill, tightly covered, until ready to use.

6. Unmold the cooled cake from the baking sheet using the parchment paper and transfer to a clean work surface or large cutting board. Remove and discard the parchment paper and cut the cake in half crosswise so that you have two 9-by-13-inch halves. Place one half of the cake bottom-side-up in the 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Brush with 2 tablespoons of the peach brandy, if using, and evenly top with the peach slices and their juices. Dollop half of the cream over top of the peaches, spreading to cover in an even layer. Place the remaining half of the cake bottom-side-up over top of the peaches and cream, and brush with the remaining brandy, if using. Dollop with the remaining whipped cream, spreading evenly to cover completely. Sprinkle with the freshly grated nutmeg, if desired. Loosely cover, making sure not to touch the top of the cake, and refrigerate for 4-6 hours, or overnight. (This allows the flavors and moisture to meld, making for a velvety, luscious texture.) Or you can eat it immediately, your call!

You may have noticed the past month or so that you haven’t been hearing from me on my usual weekly basis. Between travel, work, and the heat this summer, I’ve had to cut back to an every-other-week recipe schedule. I have a single window AC in a 900-square-foot apartment and it’s just been too hot in NYC lately to turn on my stove or oven on a regular basis. Are there recipes that don’t require much (or any) heating that I could feature? Most definitely, but whether I’ve been finding the time to seek them out and develop them is another story altogether. In the meantime, I’ve been finding alternate ways to feed my household of two.

A few years ago, my partner gifted me a waffle maker for my birthday. I’d been wanting one for awhile, and although I don’t pull it out every weekend, it’s gotten its regular share of use. Unfortunately most store-bought gluten-free waffle mixes I tried in those early days were disappointments: soggy, spongy, flops of waffles without the crisp shell contrasting with a tender, airy interior I desired. So I set to work developing my own.

After lots of trial and error, I decided on several elements that really made a huge difference in the texture of my waffles. Rice flour is a hard, water-resistant grain that provides exceptional structure and crispness to the waffles’ exterior. It takes a lot of time and moisture to really hydrate rice flour fully, so it’s perfect for fast preparations where you want to maximize crunch.

Adding in nonfat dried milk powder was also a non-negotiable. I know it’s not an option for dairy-free folks, but this single-handedly re-created classic waffles’ glutinous chew without any actual gluten. For those of you who can’t add in dairy ingredients or don’t want to buy a whole box of instant milk powder, you can do without it, but it won’t be quite as good.

Egg whites work in tandem with both the rice flour and the milk powder, helping solidify a crisp outer shell, while also adding airiness to the pillowy interior. Finally, carbonated water reacts with the baking powder, giving the batter a bubbly boost, making these waffles extra light and puffy.

A Note on Waffle Makers: I have a Cuisinart Belgian Waffle Maker with a non-stick, 4-compartment interior. I wipe it out with a damp towel while it’s still hot after every use, and don’t use metal utensils to remove the finished waffles. My non-stick coating is still going strong, so I don’t find it necessary to grease the mold before adding my batter. I also know approximately how much batter it can handle without overflowing the sides of the mold during cooking. My measurements below are catered to my machine, but you know your waffle maker’s quirks and requirements better than anyone, so please adjust as you see fit.

Gluten-Free Waffles

Makes: 3 Belgian (4-segment) waffles
Total Time: 45 minutes
Special Equipment: waffle maker; hand- or stand-mixer, or balloon whisk

1 1/2 cup (315 g) white rice flour
1/4 cup (80 g) tapioca starch
2 Tbsp. (12 g) nonfat dry milk powder
2 Tbsp. (25 g) sugar (I sometimes use coconut sugar, but granulated is also great)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 1/4 tsp. salt, divided
1/2 tsp. white vinegar
2 egg whites
1 1/2 cup (135 g) seltzer or soda water
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla
Butter, for serving
Maple Syrup, for serving

1. Heat your waffle maker on low-to-medium heat while you make your batter. Whisk the rice flour, tapioca starch, milk powder, sugar, baking powder, and 1 tsp. of salt in a medium bowl; set aside.

2. Wipe out a medium mixing or stand mixer bowl with a clean paper towel and the white vinegar. Beat the egg whites and the remaining 1/4 tsp. of salt until soft peaks form, 2-3 minutes. Sift half of the flour mixture over the beaten whites and begin gently folding together from the bottom with a rubber spatula. Add half of the seltzer water and gently mix until smooth. Repeat with the remaining flour mixture and seltzer, add the vanilla, and mix until a smooth batter forms.

3. Adjust your waffle maker to your preferred setting. Add enough batter to cover the surface of your waffle maker. (Mine takes about 1 1/4 to 1 1/3 cup per batch.) Close the lid and cook until crisp and deep golden brown. (This will depend on your waffle maker; I usually set my waffle maker to medium-high / “4",” and let it run for two cycles for extra-crispy waffles.) Repeat with remaining batter.

4. Top your waffles with butter and maple syrup, if desired. Store uneaten waffles in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days. To reheat, toast in your toaster, or directly on your oven rack at 325° for 5-8 minutes.

I’ve been out-of-town the last couple weeks visiting family and taking a much-needed reset. My partner and I spent some time in Niagara Falls visiting his mom, and every time we’re there, it’s a requirement that we go to Pho Golden, the local Vietnamese restaurant nearby. It’s a tiny storefront on Pine Avenue a few blocks away from her house in East N.F., and the six booths and four tables are consistently full of locals and busloads of tourists visiting the Falls. In cold weather I get the huge, steaming bowl of classic Beef Pho, but in summer months, I always order the Vermicelli Salad with Grilled Shrimp.

The noodles come out slightly warm and perfectly tender, while the shrimp is hot and savory, contrasting so deliciously with the cold, crisp shredded iceberg and tangy fish sauce dressing. Crunchy beansprouts and julienned carrots, along with crispy shallots and chopped toasted peanuts add tons of texture, while aromatic Thai basil, mint, and cilantro add bright, fresh flavor.

I often indulge a weird tic of mine, which I’ve talked about before, of getting into a mini meal obsession where I eat the same thing on a daily basis to my utter saturation point until the next time the urge strikes. Getting back to hot and humid NYC, I found myself craving this cool and refreshing summer salad.

This isn’t the authentic Vietnamese preparation, or even Pho Golden’s exact version, but my at-home recreation to the best of my memory, ability, and availability. My local grocery store doesn’t carry beansprouts or Thai basil (and honestly I’m not a huge beansprout fan so nbd to me). Even though NYC has tons of Asian groceries that do, I opted to use what was most readily available nearby, which in my case was common Italian basil. I also added in grape tomatoes for a pop of sweetness and color. And I think the original Pho Golden recipe has thinly sliced white onion, but I can’t swear to it. Since I like the added crunch and acidity I added them anyways.

As always, you can opt to add or subtract ingredients at will. Cilantro tastes like soap? Don’t add it. Prefer cucumber matchsticks to carrots? Go for it. Want to swap in those beansprouts and Thai basil I mentioned? Fantastic. Luckily, I have a fridge and pantry already well-stocked with quite a few specialty ingredients, like lemongrass, rice vermicelli, sweet chili sauce, fish sauce, and crispy shallots. You can find all of these items at Asian markets, and many at local grocery stores, or even online. I highly recommend going to the trouble of sourcing these ingredients as they really make the dish. I’ve included links to the products I used in the recipe below.

A Note on Cooking Rice Vermicelli: This stuff is just begging to be overcooked into a soggy, broken-up bundle of mush. The first time I cooked these noodles according to the package directions, that’s exactly what I ended up with. Luckily, internet tutorial videos and common sense exist, and I workshopped the best cooking method pretty quickly. Whatever your package directions say, do NOT boil these noodles. The trick is to soak them in hot water for a very short amount of time, usually 1-2 minutes, then immediately drain and soak them in cool water until ready to use.

Summer Shrimp & Vermicelli Salad

Makes: 4-6 servings
Total Time: 45 minutes
Special Equipment:

Shrimp:
1 Lb. (450 g) peeled, deveined large shrimp (I used 21-25 per pound)
3 medium garlic cloves, grated (about 1 Tbsp.)
1 small stalk fresh lemongrass, crushed and finely chopped (optional)
1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated (about 1 Tbsp.)
Zest of 2 limes (about 1 Tbsp)
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. dried red chili flakes
2 Tbsp. sesame oil
2 Tbsp. sweet chili sauce (optional)

Salad:
1 14-oz. (400 g) package rice vermicelli
1/2 white onion, thinly sliced (about 1.5 cups / 200 g)
1/2 head of iceberg lettuce, thinly shredded (about 6 cups / 440 g)
1 1/2 cups (150 g) shredded carrot
1 cup (200 g) sliced grape tomatoes
1/2 cup (55 g) crispy shallots
1/3 cup (65 g) chopped toasted peanuts
1 cup (15-25 g) packed picked fresh basil leaves, torn
1 cup (15-25 g) packed picked fresh cilantro sprigs
1 cup (15-25 g) packed picked fresh mint leaves, torn

Dressing:
1/2 cup (120 g) warm water
1/3 cup (90g) fresh lime juice (from 2-3 large limes; use the ones you zested earlier)
1/4 cup (65 g) good-quality fish sauce (I used Red Boat)
3 Tbsp. (45 g) sugar
2 Tbsp. (30 g) rice vinegar
1/2 tsp. dried red chili flakes

1. For the Shrimp: Combine the shrimp, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, lime zest, salt, and chili flakes in a medium bowl, toss to coat, and set aside to marinate for 15-20 minutes while prepping the salad and dressing ingredients.

2. For the Salad: While the shrimp marinates, bring a 4-quart saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Place the rice vermicelli bundle (do not break apart) in a large heat-resistant metal or glass bowl. Once the water comes to a boil, turn off the heat and let sit for 1-2 minutes. Pour the hot water over the noodles, submerging completely, and let sit for 1-2 minutes more until soft and pliable. Drain in a colander, rinse under cold water, then place the colander in the metal bowl and cover the noodles with cool water. Let sit until ready to use; drain before using.

3. While the water comes to a boil, slice the white onion and transfer to a medium bowl. Cover with cold water and add a handful of ice cubes. Let sit while you prepare the remaining salad ingredients; drain before using.

4. For the Dressing: Combine the dressing ingredients in a medium liquid measuring cup or bowl. Whisk to combine; set aside.

5. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the 2 Tbsp. sesame oil. Add the shrimp, in batches if necessary, and cook until pink and golden brown at the edges, turning once, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from the heat and toss with the 2 Tbsp. sweet chili sauce, if using. Let rest, loosely covered, until ready to assemble the salad.

6. Divide the noodles and shredded lettuce between four to six serving bowls. Top with the sliced onion, shredded carrots, sliced tomatoes, and the shrimp. Garnish with the crispy shallots, chopped peanuts, and the fresh herbs. Divide the dressing evenly between the bowls, and toss to coat.

I grew up on canned Hershey’s syrup, the kind with the yellow plastic lid that you’d remove before puncturing the can with an old-fashioned opener. We’d pour it over bowls of ice cream or stir it into frothy glasses of cold milk. Maybe it’s nostalgia, or just imagination overriding memory, but I always thought the canned syrup tasted better—richer, more chocolatey—than the stuff in the plastic squeeze bottle.

It’s hard to find the cans these days, I haven’t seen them in stores in years, although apparently H-E-B still stocks them (maybe there’s something to the Texas hype after all). There are a few other brands that are my go-tos these days, u-bet and Bosco being top picks. But I can’t always find the u-bet made with sugar vs. corn syrup, and I have to watch my corn intake as it can trigger migraines.

I started making my own homemade chocolate sauce years ago out of a convergence of necessity and convenience. My version is slightly thicker than the syrups in storebought squeeze bottles, but unlike hot fudge it still stays liquid in the fridge (although it’s best to let it sit at room temp for 5-10 minutes before pouring). The recipe is just four ingredients, one of which is water and none of which is corn syrup, and takes under 5 minutes. Not only is it incredibly quick and easy, but it’s also deeply satisfying, with intense chocolate flavor unmatched by the factory-made, artificial stuff.

I opt to use dark chocolate in my sauce, usually 72%, for bold cocoa notes and a deep, velvety color, but you can use any percentage you’d like, from milk to semisweet to bittersweet.

Homemade Chocolate Sauce

Makes: about 1 cup
Active Time: 5 minutes

1/2 cup (120 g) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (25 g) good quality Dutch-process cocoa powder (I use Valrhona or Guittard)
1/2 cup (125 g) water
2 oz. (60 g) chocolate, finely chopped

Whisk the sugar and cocoa powder together in a small saucepan until evenly incorporated. Slowly whisk in the water until combined. Bring to a boil over medium heat, 3-4 minutes. Chop the chocolate while the mixture comes to a boil. Once the mixture is boiling with large, frothy bubbles, cook for 1 minute, stirring, then remove from the heat and whisk in the chocolate. Let cool to room temperature, whisk again, and transfer to a resealable glass jar. Store in the fridge indefinitely.

Years ago I was a freelance recipe tester for New York Times Cooking and was sent a recipe for broccoli pesto pasta. I initially scoffed, being of the opinion that broccoli’s use in that beloved mother sauce was sacrilege, not to mention that it wasn’t a true pesto at all, lacking parmesan, nuts, and lemon in the blended preparation, although including them in the recipe’s finishing touches—More of a deconstructed pesto, if you will.

But personal reservations aside, I tested the recipe and was unexpectedly enamored. So much so that it’s become a staple over the years, a simple dish that comes together quickly and can be paired with any number of proteins: grilled chicken or salmon, seared pork loin, sautéed shrimp or scallops.

The alchemical mastery that makes this dish such a hit isn’t in merely blanching the broccoli, but in fact boiling the crap out of it, cooking it beyond crisp-tender to the point it will puree into a smooth, creamy amalgam that robes the pasta in a velvety green sauce, satiny with emulsified olive oil.

And forget the inconvenience of two pots of boiling water—one for the broccoli, one for the pasta. You simply scoop the cooked broccoli out of the boiling pot with a strainer or slotted spoon, directly into your food processor or blender, then plop the pasta into the roiling, green-tinged water. Talk about maximizing nutrients while minimizing prep time.

I no longer have a subscription to NYT Cooking, and have been casually winging this pasta all these years later, but here’s the recipe as I make it today. If you’d like to adapt the recipe to be dairy-free, substitute the parmesan for a vegan alternative. For nut-free, omit the walnuts or replace them with toasted breadcrumbs.

Broccoli Pesto Pasta

Makes: 4 servings
Total Time: 30 minutes
Special Equipment: wire spider / skimmer, or slotted spoon

3 Tbsp. salt, divided
2 medium broccoli crowns and tender stems (10-12 oz. / 285-340 g), cut into florets
2-3 medium cloves garlic, peeled
2 cups (2.75 oz. / 75 g) packed mint leaves
1/2 cup (4 oz. / 110 g) olive oil, plus more for serving
12 oz. (340 g) gluten-free pasta of choice
1/2 cup (2.5 oz. / 65 g) walnut pieces
1 lemon, zested and juiced (about 1 tsp. and 2 Tbsp.)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup (2 oz. / 60 g) freshly grated parmesan

1. Bring a large covered pot of water to a roiling boil over high heat. Uncover, add 2 1/2 Tbsp. of salt, the broccoli, and garlic, and cook for 5 minutes.

2. While the broccoli cooks, place the mint in the bowl of a food processor. Use a wire spider or slotted spoon to transfer the cooked broccoli and garlic cloves directly to the food processor, keeping the water boiling. Add the remaining 1/2 Tbsp. of salt to the mint, broccoli, and garlic, and puree until smooth, 1-2 minutes. With the machine still running, slowly drizzle in 1/2 cup of olive oil until emulsified, 1 minute more. Set aside.

3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package directions, about 10 minutes.

4. While the pasta cooks, toast the walnuts in a medium saucepan over medium heat until fragrant and lightly browned, 4-5 minutes. Let cool slightly.

5. Reserve 1/2 cup of pasta water and drain the pasta. Transfer the pasta to a large bowl and toss with the broccoli pesto, the lemon zest and juice, tossing to combine. If the pesto needs to loosen up, add some reserved pasta water 2 Tbsp. at a time, until smooth and creamy, and the pasta is evenly coated in sauce.

6. Divide the pasta between bowls, and top with freshly ground pepper. Divide the walnuts and grated cheese between the bowls, and drizzle each with olive oil, to taste.

My early summer gluttony recently outweighed my common sense once again and I ended up with too many pounds of peaches and cherries for one person to consume in a reasonable amount of time. Even after moving the ripe peaches into the fridge in an attempt to restrain their juicy softening, I was working against a tight deadline with both. So I defaulted to my favorite way to use an overabundance of ripe fruit: a crumble.

But what makes this preparation slightly different is the frangipane (ie. almond-based) custard binding the fruit and crumble in a suspension of creamy cake-like sponge. Studded with fresh fruit and finished with a crisp, glacéd topping, this crumble is just sweet enough, with subtle vanilla notes, and wholesomely satisfying.

The stone fruits I’ve come across so far this summer have been exceptional, and I highly recommend trying this peach-and-cherry combo, but if you feel like going in another direction, plenty of other soft-fleshed fruits or berries will work just as well, such as nectarines, pears, plums, blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, or strawberries. If you opt to swap in firmer fruit or fruit-adjacent ingredients, such as apples, pineapple or rhubarb, I recommend cooking them slightly first to allow their cellular structures to release excess moisture and soften, or you’ll likely end up with a soupy fruit casserole.

To adapt this casserole to be dairy-free, swap the heavy cream in the custard for a non-dairy creamer, and substitute the butter for greasing and in the crumble with a vegan butter alternative.

Gluten-Free Peach & Cherry Custard Crumble

Makes: 8-10 servings
Active Time: 30 minutes | Baking Time: 45 minutes
Special Equipment: One 3-quart casserole dish

Fruit:
1 tsp. butter, for greasing
2 lbs. (900 g) firm-ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced (about 4 cups)
1 lb. (450 g) sweet cherries, stemmed, halved, and pitted (about 2 cups)
1 lemon, zested and juiced (about 1 tsp. and 2 Tbsp.)
1 cup (200 g) light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. (20 g) arrowroot or tapioca starch
1/2 vanilla bean, seeded (or 1 tsp. vanilla extract)
1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp. salt

Custard:
3 large eggs
2/3 cup (130 g) granulated sugar
2/3 cup (80 g) almond meal
2/3 cup (160 g) heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean, seeded (or 1 tsp. vanilla extract)
1/4 tsp. salt

Crumble:
1 cup (120 g) all-purpose gluten-free baking mix
1/2 cup (100 g) light brown sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp. salt
6 Tbsp. (75 g) butter, softened

1. For the Fruit: Heat the oven to 350°F with the rack in the middle position. Grease a 3-quart casserole dish with 1 tsp. of butter. Place on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment (optional, but easier to clean up any bubbling juices); set aside. Combine the peaches through salt in a large bowl, gently folding to mix. Transfer to the prepared casserole dish, spreading evenly over the bottom; set aside.

2. For the Custard: Whisk the eggs and sugar until light and foamy, 2-3 minutes. Whisk in the almond meal, heavy cream, vanilla seeds, and salt until smooth. Slowly pour over the fruit in the casserole dish; set aside.

3. For the Crumble: Whisk the baking mix through salt in a medium bowl to combine. Using your hands or a pastry cutter, add in the butter and combine until the mixture resembles damp sand, 2-3 minutes. Sprinkle large chunks of the crumb layer evenly over top of the custard layer.

4. Bake until the juices are bubbling and the topping is crisp and browned, 45-50 minutes. Let cool 25-30 minutes before serving.

Last week I made a Gluten-Free Onion & Rosemary Focaccia, then turned it into a seasonal summer pizza for this week’s recipe. I based this build-my-own version on one of my favorites at my local pie shop, Fornino. They make a truly excellent gluten-free wood-fired dough, and whenever I go, I order the ‘Pear y Copa,’ topped with fontina, gorgonzola, goat cheese, juicy pear, pinenuts, and spicy copa ham. I couldn’t find several of those ingredients at my local market, already had other substitutes on hand, and added a few of my own.

I felt like making mine a marinara base (the original is just olive oil & garlic), and instead of fontina, I already had a block of gouda in my fridge. I also had a packet of Serrano ham that came as a promo item with an online specialty grocery order I’d made for work. There were no substitutes for the pear, pinenuts, or gorgonzola, but I had leftover pickled red onions from a shoot I wanted to use, and arugula and mint added some freshness, along with a peppery bite and fantastic aromatics. Finally, I topped the finished focaccia pie with hot honey, a Fornino staple.

As always, feel free to adapt this recipe to your own preferences. You can easily cut out, substitute, or add any ingredients you like. If you want to adapt this recipe to be nut-free, omit the pinenuts. To make this recipe dairy-free, substitute the standard gouda and gorgonzola cheeses for vegan alternatives of your choice.

Gluten-Free Focaccia Pizza

Makes: 12 servings
Total Time: 20 minutes

1 recipe Gluten-Free Focaccia
1/2 cup (130 g) jarred marinara of choice
2 Tbsp. (30 g) olive oil
6 oz. (170 g) grated gouda (about 2 cups)
2 oz. (60 g) thinly sliced Serrano ham, torn
1 firm-ripe pear, cored and thinly sliced (6-7 oz.)
1/3 cup (50 g) crumbled gorgonzola
2 Tbsp. (25 g) pine nuts
1/4 cup (25 g) pickled red onion, squeezed dry
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup (25 g) packed baby arugula
3 Tbsp. torn mint leaves
2 Tbsp. hot honey

1. Heat the oven to 375°F with the rack in the middle position. Spread the marinara evenly over the surface of the focaccia and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle the gouda evenly over the pizza and top with the ham. Scatter the pear slices over top, followed by the gorgonzola, pine nuts, pickled red onions, and freshly ground pepper.

2. Bake until fragrant and the cheeses are melted and beginning to brown, 8-10 minutes. Remove from the oven and scatter the arugula and torn mint leaves evenly over the surface. Drizzle with hot honey, slice, and serve.

I purchased a bag of Caputo Gluten Free Flour on a whim in an Italian specialty store several months ago, without a clear idea of what I’d be using it for. One of its most popular intended uses is for handmade GF pasta, but I don’t own a pasta machine, and honestly don’t have the inclination to make my own pappardelle at this point. What I did feel like the other day was a warm onion and rosemary focaccia, with a crunchy cornmeal-coated crust on the bottom, and a pillowy, elastic interior with a bit of chew.

Studded with swirls of succulent caramelized sweet onions and fresh rosemary, this bread makes a great accompaniment to cool gazpacho, a fantastic addition to tomato panzanella salad, or the perfect base as a summer build-your-own pizza.

A Note on Caputo Gluten Free Flour: This Italian flour brand has revolutionized a process in which they successfully remove the gluten from wheat starch, resulting in a product that is able to closely mimic gluten’s classic elasticity and structure in pastas and baked goods. While it meets European and FDA standards for its gluten-free labeling (meaning it may contain less than 20 parts-per-million of gluten), it may not be safe for extra-sensitive celiacs and and NCGSs (non-celiac gluten sensitives). Although less than a quarter teaspoon of a gluten-containing food will trigger my gluten response, Caputo GF leaves me symptom-free and feeling fine. But because its main ingredient is still wheat, it’s not safe for those with a wheat allergy or sensitivity.

If you’re unable or unwilling to use Caputo Gluten Free Flour for any reason (availability, accessibility, or personal preference), you can substitute the following amounts of GF flours and starches:

1 1/4 cup (200 g) chickpea flour (instead of 1 1/2 cup (240 g) Caputo GF Flour)
1 cup (175 g) potato starch (instead of 3/4 cup)
3/4 cup (120 g) tapioca starch (instead of 1/2 cup)

Gluten-Free Onion & Rosemary Focaccia

Makes: 12 servings
Active Time: 30 minutes | Rising Time: 40-45 minutes | Baking Time: 30 minutes
Special Equipment: 11x17-inch rimmed baking sheet

1/2 cup (110 g) olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. coarse cornmeal (optional)
1 large sweet onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups / 365 g)
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
2 Tbsp. (30 g) plus 1 cup (240 g) warm water (110°-115°F), divided
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 pkg. (7 g / 2.25 tsp.) active-dry yeast
1 1/2 cup (240 g) Caputo Gluten Free Flour
3/4 cup (130 g) potato starch
1/2 cup (80 g) tapioca starch
1 tsp. onion powder
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary, plus 2 Tbsp. picked rosemary sprigs
1 tsp. flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

1. Grease an 11x7-inch rimmed baking sheet with 1 tsp. olive oil and sprinkle evenly with the cornmeal, if using; set aside. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the sliced onion. Season with 1 tsp. of the kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mostly browned and beginning to crisp at the edges, 8-10 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. of the water and continue to cook, stirring, until the water evaporates and the onions are evenly caramelized, 2-3 minutes more. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

2. Dissolve the sugar and the yeast in the remaining cup of warm water and allow to sit undisturbed while combining the dry ingredients, 8-10 minutes. The mixture should become foamy and fragrant.

3. While the yeast is activating, whisk the remaining 2 tsp. of kosher salt with the flour, starches, and onion powder. Make a well in the center. Add the yeast mixture, 1/4 cup of the olive oil, the beaten eggs, and the cider vinegar. Whisk until smooth and lightly thickened. (The mixture will appear more like cake batter than traditional bread dough.) Fold in the chopped rosemary until evenly distributed.

4. Spread the dough evenly in the prepared baking sheet and dimple the surface lightly with your fingers. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and sprinkle with the picked rosemary sprigs and flaky salt. Top with the caramelized onions. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free area until the dough has doubled or tripled in size, 40-45 minutes.

5. Heat the oven to 375°F. Bake uncovered until fragrant, puffed, and golden brown, and the internal temperature registers 200°-210°F, 25-30 minutes. Cool 5-10 minutes before slicing.

I adore a custard pie, and key lime is the best of all custards in my book. Key lime season usually runs from June through September in the US, so there’s a good chance you’ll be able to find key limes in Caribbean markets, online, or even in local supermarkets in the next several months. Key limes are smaller, tarter, and seedier than standard Persian limes that populate most grocery stores, with thin, yellow skins that make them less hardy with a shorter shelf life. That might not sound like a solid sell, but key limes are also extremely fragrant, with an intriguing floral aroma that somehow encompasses an enigmatic wild spiciness. Their juice is also slightly tarter yet somehow milder at the same time, without the strident astringency and one-note flavor of Persian limes.

The true key to key lime pie’s appeal is the exquisite harmony between the extremes of flavors and textures. The creamy smoothness of the rich egg yolk and condensed milk base balances the piquant tartness of key limes. The sweetened condensed milk also supplies all the sweetness needed to offset the limes’ acidity without any added sugar. Gingersnaps and shredded coconut in the crust complement the tropical flavor profile of the limes, while browning the butter provides a hint of toasted nuttiness, cumulating in a satisfyingly indulgent crunch. Barely sweetened mascarpone fortifies and stabilizes the airy whipped topping, creating a luscious contrast to the custard’s dense richness while adding a hint of cultured tang.

Although the recipe has multiple components—crust, filling, candied limes, and whipped topping—each is streamlined with just several ingredients each. By the recipe’s end, you’ve achieved a silky smooth custard cradled in a buttery crust, mellowed by lightly sweetened mascarpone topping and zesty limes rounds.

A Note on Substitutions: It’s worth searching out and purchasing key limes if you have the option, but if not, I recommend using two parts Persian lime juice to one part lemon juice (or even Meyer lemon juice, which will supplement the floral notes) as a substitute. But please—PLEASE—use fresh juice, nothing out of a jar or a squeeze bottle. This pie relies on a handful of simple ingredients, so focusing on quality over convenience will make a difference to the final product. You can likewise swap out the gingersnaps for graham crackers, and omit the coconut, or replace it with macadamia nuts, if you’re not a fan. I used Mi-Del Gluten-Free Gingersnaps, which is my go-to, but feel free to use whatever is available in your area.

Key Lime Pie with Brown Butter Gingersnap-Coconut Crust

Makes: 10-12 servings
Active Time: 1 hour | Cooling Time: 5 hours or overnight
Special Equipment: One 9-inch deep-dish pie plate; Food processor; Hand mixer; Piping bag and large piping tip

Crust:
5 Tbsp. (70 g) butter
8 oz. (225 g) gluten-free gingersnaps
1/2 cup (2.5 oz / 70 g) shredded, sweetened coconut
1/4 tsp. salt

Filling:
6 large egg yolks
2 cans (14 oz. / 395 g) sweetened condensed milk
2 Tbsp. key lime zest (from approximately 12-16 limes)
3/4 cup (6 oz. / 170 g) key lime juice (from approximately 26-32 limes)
1/2 tsp. salt

Candied Limes (optional):
3 key or 2 Persian limes, very thinly sliced
1/2 cup (4 oz.) water, plus more to cover
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar

Whipped Topping:
8 oz. (225 g) mascarpone
1 cup (8 oz. / 250 g) heavy cream
3 Tbsp. (25 g) confectioner’s sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract

1. For the Crust: Heat the oven to 375°F with the rack in the middle position. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Continue to cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the foam has dissipated, and the milk solids have caramelized to a deep brown and coated the bottom of the saucepan, 8-10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

2. Combine the gingersnaps, coconut, and salt in the bowl of the food processor. Pulse to combine, then blend on high for 30-60 seconds until very fine crumbs form. Add the butter, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom of the saucepan, and pulse until the mixture begins clumping together like damp sand.

3. Transfer the crumbs to a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate and press the mixture evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the dish. Bake until fragrant and beginning to brown at the edges, 8-10 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven. (If the crumb mixture has puffed or slumped in the pie dish, use the bottom of a glass or measuring cup to gently re-press it evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the dish.) Let the crust cool while you prepare the filling.

4. For the Filling: Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F. Whisk the yolks and sweetened condensed milk in a medium bowl until smooth. Stir in the zest, juice, and salt, and whisk until slightly thickened. Pour the filling into the prepared crust and smooth the top with a rubber spatula, if needed. Bake until the custard is set and the center jiggles very slightly, 18-20 minutes. Remove the pie and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Chill uncovered in the fridge for at least 4 hours or overnight.

5. For the Candied Limes (optional): While the pie is baking, place the lime slices in a small saucepan and cover with several inches of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until slightly translucent, 8-10 minutes. Strain the limes, discarding the water, and set aside.

6. Combine the 1/2 cup of water and the sugar in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil until the sugar is completely dissolved, 3-4 minutes. Add the limes and reduce the heat to medium. Cook at a gentle simmer until the syrup has thickened slightly and the limes are translucent, 8-10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely, about 1 hour. Transfer the limes in the syrup to a glass jar with a lid and store in the fridge until needed.

7. For the Whipped Topping: Chill a large bowl and a ballon whisk, or the beaters for a hand mixer, in the freezer for 10-20 minutes or overnight. Add the mascarpone and whisk lightly to loosen. Slowly whisk in the cream until smooth, then whisk in the confectioner’s sugar and vanilla. Beat until thickened and the mixture can hold stiff peaks, 2-3 minutes.

8. Fit a piping bag with a large tip (I used #848), and transfer the whipped topping into the bag. Pipe 1-inch florets around the edge of the pie. (Alternately, you can spread the whipped topping over the top of the pie with a rubber spatula, creating swoops of ridges and valleys.) Remove the candied lime slices from the syrup, if using, and blot dry. Garnish the whipped topping florets with the candied limes, slice, and serve.

I’ll house a burger any day of the year, but I think we can all agree it hits differently as the weather warms up and summer approaches. Even if you don’t have a grill, even if you’re working out of a tiny apartment kitchen and the aerosolized grease clings to your clothes and hair, inducing your partner or roommate to complain about lack of ventilation, a burger is still a burger is still a burger.

I wish I’d been able to get this post up in time for Memorial Day weekend, because I’ve been making burgers for my main meal, lunch or dinner, just about every day for the past week and a half. I’ll probably continue to do so until I run out of the staple ingredients—elastic American cheese singles, dill pickle rounds, the trio of baby gem lettuce I bought specifically for its ideal leaf size, my gluten-free buns.

I love the quintessential burger build without any frills or complicated ingredients: toasted bun, smear of mayo, dill pickle chips, 100% beef patty, American cheese, thinly sliced raw red onion, leafy green lettuce, beefsteak tomato, squirt of ketchup and yellow mustard. Even when I’m dining out, this is my standard burger order. I don’t see the need for auxiliary extras that read like a breakfast sandwich (egg, bacon, avocado) or a pitmaster special (anything whisky, bourbon, bbq, or chipotle).

But the great thing about a burger is that it’s infinitely customizable. If you do happen to prefer any of those aforementioned add-ons, go nuts! And of course you can opt to buy the pre-formed patties sold in any grocery store, but I like to make my own, and once again simplicity is key. I stock up on lean grass-fed beef whenever I make a Costco run, and defrost a pound at a time a day before I plan on using it. For a touch of smoky flavor, as well as an extra-juicy bite, I add in a little bit of softened bacon grease, but butter would work just as well. I feel the same way about ranch or steak seasoning, minced onion and garlic, or dried herbs in my burger blend that I do about extraneous toppings, so just a touch of salt and pepper rounds out the patties’ preparation.

To make this burger dairy-free, replace the standard American cheese with a vegan alternative. If you’re concerned about soy or corn additives in your condiments, read ingredient labels closely and purchase allergen-friendly versions of mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard.

A Classic Hamburger

Makes: 4 servings
Total Time: 20 minutes

1 lb. (450 g) lean ground beef (90% lean or higher)
1 Tbsp. (20 g) bacon fat or butter, softened
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
4 slices American cheese singles
4 gluten-free hamburger buns (I used Schär)
2 Tbsp. mayo, divided
12-16 dill pickle rounds, blotted dry
1 small red onion, thinly sliced into rings
4-8 leaves of leafy green lettuce, cleaned and stems trimmed
1 ripe beefsteak tomato, thinly sliced
4 tsp. ketchup, divided
4 tsp. yellow mustard, divided
Dill pickle spears, for serving (optional)
Potato chips of choice, for serving (optional)

1. Heat a large skillet over medium-low heat. Combine the ground beef, bacon fat, 1 tsp. salt, and the black pepper in a medium bowl with your hands, kneading until smooth. Divide into four 4-ounce portions and flatten into patties approximately 1/4-inch thick and 4- to 5-inches wide. Increase the heat to medium high and cook the patties (in batches if necessary to avoid crowding and steaming) 2-3 minutes, seasoning with a light sprinkle of salt if desired. After flipping the burgers, immediately lay a slice of American cheese over each patty and continue to cook until the burgers are browned at the edges and the cheese is melted, 2-3 minutes more. Transfer the burgers to a plate and keep warm, loosely covered, while you toast the buns.

2. Reduce the skillet heat to medium. Place each bun half cut-side down in the skillet, moving around to coat lightly with burger grease. Weigh down with a large plate or second skillet to create better contact between the bun halves and skillet surface. Toast until crisp and brown at the edges, 2-3 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly.

3. Spread the bottom of each bun with 1 1/2 tsp. mayo, layer with 3-4 dill pickle rounds, and place a cheeseburger on each bun. Top with thinly sliced red onion rings, 1-2 leaves of lettuce, and 1-2 slices of tomato sprinkled lightly with salt. Spread 1 tsp. each of ketchup and mustard on each remaining burger bun and top each burger. Serve with pickle spears and potato chips, if desired.

The weather’s getting warmer and that means it’s time to switch my hot coffee order over to iced at my local café. I get that some (if not most) of you drink iced coffee all year round, but I belong to a generation that existed before intentional cold coffee ever did. I’m a daily coffee drinker, and while that $7 isn’t what’s keeping me from my first mortgage, it adds up. Not to mention that I switched over to half-caff a couple years ago in an attempt to coddle my gut lining, and it’s almost impossible to get a decaf cold brew—they just make a decaf americano and pour it over ice, which isn’t the same at all (at least to me).

If you’re looking for iced coffee, you can simply brew hot coffee and then chill it. But if you’ve ever accidentally drunk from a mug of cold coffee that used to be hot, you’ll know exactly why this isn’t my go-to method. It’s usually bitter, kind of greasy, and tastes like an old ashtray.

Cold brew is exactly like it sounds: coffee brewed with cold water, meaning that time is the key to infusion versus hot water. So although this is one of the easiest processes possible with the fewest ingredients (I can’t even bring myself to call it a recipe), it makes up for its simplicity with a heftier time investment. But the payoff is a smooth, rich coffee concentrate with less acidity and caffeine than hot-brewed coffee, making it easier on the stomach. The long, chilled brew-time also reduces bitterness by neutralizing compounds that are released and oxidized with hot water. And if your box of beans claims to have notes of plum, honeysuckle, and glazed donut, for example, you’ll get more flavor nuances with a cold brew than with the traditional hot as well.

A Note on Coffee Grinding: If you’re buying whole beans at your grocery store or local coffee shop, there’s usually an option to have them ground there. With a grocery store grinder, choose the coarsest setting, and in your local coffee shop, just tell them it’s for cold brew and you’d like their coarsest grind. However, if like me you prefer to grind them yourself at home and don’t own an actual coffee grinder but only a dedicated spice-grinder-turned-coffee-grinder, then do this: fill the bowl of the grinder halfway with beans and pulse 15 times per batch. Transfer the grounds to a large bowl and repeat with the remaining beans. Depending on the size of your grinder, this will take 6-10 batches, about 3-5 minutes.

Cold Brew Concentrate

Makes: 6 cups | 10-12 servings
Active Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 17-19 hours
Special Equipment: Fine-mesh strainer; coffee filters, paper towels, or cheesecloth; ladle; resealable glass bottle or pitcher

300 grams (10.5 oz / 3 cups) coarsely ground coffee beans of choice
8 cups (1.9 L) cold, filtered water
Cold, filtered water, for serving
Ice, for serving
Cream or milk of choice, for serving (optional)
Simple syrup, if desired (recipe below)

1. Combine the coffee grounds and water in a large bowl. Whisk to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Cover and store in a cool, dim area at room temperature (or in the fridge if the ambient air temperature is too warm) for 16-18 hours.

2. Line a fine-mesh sieve with a coffee filter or paper towels and place over a measuring cup or bowl. Leaving the coffee grounds on the bottom of the bowl undisturbed, ladle the coffee concentrate into the sieve and let drain before repeating the process, until all the liquid has been strained, 25-45 minutes. (If this process slows down abruptly, switch out your filter, it’s likely accumulated too much sediment.) Add the coffee grounds to the sieve and let drain completely without pressing on the grounds. (If it didn’t come out in a 16-hour soak, you don’t want to force it now.)

3. Transfer the coffee concentrate to a resealable glass bottle or pitcher, discarding any sediment at the bottom. To serve, combine 1 part concentrate with 1 part cold, filtered water over ice. Sweeten as desired and add creamer of choice, if desired.

Simple Syrup

Makes: 1.5 cups | 25-30 servings
Active Time: 10 minutes | Cooling Time: 30-60 minutes
Special Equipment: Small saucepan; resealable glass bottle or jar

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (8 oz.) filtered water
Flavoring additive of choice, (vanilla bean or extract, orange or lemon peel or extract, cinnamon stick, star anise pod, etc.), optional

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved, 1-3 minutes. Turn off the heat and add any flavoring additive, if desired. Let cool completely. Store in a resealable glass bottle or jar in the fridge indefinitely.

I’m not going to lie, this recipe is a beast, but it’s also extremely, satisfyingly lush and delicious, hence the “supreme.” It also makes A LOT of lasagna (again, see “supreme”), which is helpful if you have a big family function, or if you just want to live off leftovers for at least a week. Lasagna is one of the few foods—along with Thanksgiving leftovers, cheesecake, and fruitcake—that gets better the longer it’s around.

The ingredients are pretty straightforward, nothing you wouldn’t find in other lasagna recipes, but I’ve honed my personal preferences over the years to adopt and discard the things I do and don’t love about the traditional lasagnas I grew up with. The first is dumping the ground beef for a solely-sausage experience. I really don’t like ground beef in lasagna—It imparts a musty, dog-food funk that turns me off. If you like it, you’re welcome to use a 50/50 beef and sausage blend, or whatever ratio you want, but for me the sweet fennel richness of mild Italian sausage is the only way to go.

The second is incorporating a béchamel in addition to the cheese filling and the sauce. The triple combo makes for a velvety, rich layering of salty, savory, and acidic flavors that activate all your tastebuds. You’ll often see cheese filling + sauce but no béchamel in an Americanized lasagna, or cheese filling + béchamel but no sauce in a white lasagna, or béchamel + sauce but no cheese filling in an Italian-style lasagna. I find the first version just fine (it’s what I grew up with after all) but missing a layer of richness, the second is a bit bland and doesn’t have enough bite for me, and the third feels a bit deflated and insubstantial instead of the hearty dish I crave.

And finally, I know there are going to be critics and disbelievers who are dubious at best and offended at worst that I’m forgoing the standard ricotta for a cottage cheese filling. Haters gonna hate, but in the meantime I’m glorifying in the secret to the creamiest, richest lasagna I’ve ever eaten.

When I was around 8 or 9 I was invited to my neighbors’ house for dinner and had a revelatory lasagna experience. Their mom’s lasagna was creamy, salty, tart, and so satisfying, with a fuller, rounder, cheesier flavor than I was used to—It was so completely unlike my mom’s lasagna that I actually asked my friends’ mom what she did differently and she told me she used cottage cheese instead of ricotta. I’ve made a lot of lasagnas over the intervening years, some with ricotta, some with cottage cheese, and if the former was better I would be including it in the recipe. But if you’re still determined to be team ricotta, go ahead, I’m not there to stop you.

Maybe you also feel like making your own sauce is sacrosanct and using a jar of storebought is heretical. I hear that, but I’ve found a jarred sauce that I absolutely love, and I’m much more likely to make a lasagna when I’m not facing yet another lengthy recipe addendum. I use Victoria White Linen, which is delicious, and is as yet unspoiled by being bought up and downgraded by a monolithic brand monopoly.

Being celiac, I of course used gluten-free lasagna noodles, specifically Jovial’s brown rice noodles. I’m not sponsored by Jovial, nor saying these are the best GF option, but it’s what was available in my local grocery. If you’re not gluten-averse, you can either use a traditional boiled noodle or one of the no-bake varieties. If you are in the GF camp, I implore you to toss out the box instructions and follow my par-soak method instead. By soaking for a short time in hot (not boiling) water, you avoid the disastrous won’t-lay-flat, uncooked noodle debacle, as well as the pre-boiled, falling apart noodle tragedy. (The little ruffled edges of Jovial’s started peeling off after soaking so I just discarded them.)

And one last hack for the most cohesive, meltingly tender lasagna texture: Before you use the food processor to make your filling, toss the cooked and cooled sausage in and pulse into fine crumbles before transferring it back to its bowl. This breaks up any rubbery chunks and allows for an even blanket of savory-sweet sausage in each layer and in every bite.

Sausage & Mushroom Lasagna Supreme

Makes: 12 servings
Active Time: 1 hour | Baking Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
Special Equipment: One 10- to 12-inch sauté pan; One 11-inch by 13-inch deep-dish casserole; Food processor (or blender); Heavy-duty aluminum foil

Sausage & Mushrooms:
5 Tbsp. (65 g) olive oil, divided
2 lbs. (900 g) mild Italian sausage, casing removed
1 1/2 lbs. (680 g) cremini or button mushrooms, thinly sliced
2-3 large cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped (1 1/2 Tbsp.)
1 tsp. salt

Béchamel:
2 Tbsp. (30 g) butter
2-3 large cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped (1 1/2 Tbsp.)
3 Tbsp. gluten-free all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
3 cups (710 ml) half & half
1/3 cup (40 g) grated parmesan
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Filling:
2 lbs. (32 oz. / 900 g) 4% small-curd cottage cheese
4 large egg yolks
2-3 large cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped (1 1/2 Tbsp.)
1 lemon, zested and juiced (1 Tbsp. & 1 tsp.)
2/3 cup (80 g) grated parmesan
1/4 cup (10 g) chopped fresh parsley
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Assembly:
18 oz. (510 g) gluten-free lasagna noodles
8-10 cups hot water
60 oz. (1.75 L) good quality jarred marinara of choice
6 cups (770 g) grated low-moisture whole milk mozzarella
1 cup (130 g) grated parmesan
Olive oil, for greasing

1. For the Sausage & Mushrooms: Heat 3 Tbsp. of olive oil in a large 10- to 12-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. Crumble in the sausage and cook, breaking up chunks with a wooden spoon, until browned and cooked through, 10-12 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to a medium bowl, leaving the fat drippings in the skillet; set aside.

2. Add a third of the sliced mushrooms to the skillet and cook, turning once, until crisp and golden brown on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a medium bowl and repeat with the remaining batches, adding 1 Tbsp. of olive to the pan per batch, as needed. Return all the mushrooms to the pan, add the garlic and salt, and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant and golden, 1-2 minutes more. Transfer all of the mushrooms back to the bowl and set aside.

3. For the Béchamel: While the mushrooms are cooking, melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until softened and fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Stir in the gluten-free all-purpose flour and the salt and cook until lightly golden and bubbly, 2-3 minutes. Slowly whisk in the half & half, stirring vigorously to avoid lumps. Cook, whisking constantly, until the béchamel is smooth and thickened, 4-5 minutes more. Whisk in the parmesan and black pepper, remove from the heat, cover, and set aside.

4. For the Filling: Combine the filling ingredients in the bowl of a food processor, pulse several times to blend, then process until completely smooth, 1-2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.

5. For the Assembly: Heat the oven to 325°F with the rack in the middle position. Layer the lasagna sheets evenly in the 11”x13” casserole dish. (It will be necessary to overlap them.) Cover them with very hot (but not boiling) water and let them soak for 5-7 minutes. While they’re soaking, place a clean kitchen towel over a rimmed baking sheet. Gently remove the lasagna sheets and lay them on the towel to drain, folding the edges of the towel over for an additional layer of lasagna sheets. Pour the water out of the casserole dish and dry it completely.

6. Spread a quarter of the marinara sauce (about 1.5 cups) over the bottom of the casserole dish. Top with a quarter of the lasagna sheets, cutting them to fit along the edges as needed. Gently spread a third of the filling over the sheets, sprinkle evenly with a third of the sausage, then a third of the mushrooms. Pour a third of the béchamel over the mushroom layer, spreading as evenly as possible, then sprinkle a third of the mozzarella evenly over the top. Repeat the layering twice more, starting with the marinara, until the last of the béchamel has been used (but not the final layer of mozzarella). Top the final layer of béchamel with the last of the lasagna noodles, then cover evenly with the last of the marinara. Sprinkle on the grated parmesan, followed by the remaining mozzarella.

7. Lightly grease a large sheet of heavy-duty foil with olive oil or non-stick spray and cover the top of the lasagna, trying not to touch the cheese. Place the casserole dish on a rimmed sheet tray and bake for 1 hour. Carefully remove the foil, increase the heat to 350°F, and return to the oven until the top of the lasagna is golden and bubbling, 20-25 minutes more. Remove and let cool at least 20 minutes before serving.

I’ve been craving something sweet and springy lately, and in my mind a pineapple upside-down cake fits the bill. I’d considered making this for our friend groups’ annual Easter brunch instead of the scones I ended up taking, but a pineapple upside-down cake seems more ‘afternoon tea’ than ‘breakfast,’ at least to me.

Growing up, this was a rare special-occasion recipe in our house, made for a church potluck or a birthday request. Invariably, it involved a boxed yellow cake mix, a can of pineapple rings in lite syrup, and jarred maraschino cherries. There’s nothing wrong with any of those things, it’s just that my culinary tastes and abilities have evolved over time. And with my celiac and MCAS diagnoses, making more of my food from scratch works out better for my health overall.

It also means I get to play around with ingredients that just seem to fit together like a culinary jigsaw puzzle. I’m not sure why I love cornmeal and cherry so much together—those aren’t even the stars of this recipe—but they’re truly complementary to me and I put them together whenever I can. In this recipe, the ricotta and cornmeal are combined early on and left to meld, allowing the moisture from the ricotta and vanilla extract to imbue the cornmeal, making for a hydrated, balanced distribution throughout the cake base. The final result is a moist, sturdy sponge with a hint of earthy corn flavor contrasting with the tonsil-tingling brightness of pineapple and amaretto tartness of maraschinos.

I also replaced the watery, overcooked canned pineapple from childhood with fresh, firm-ripe wedges that brown up beautifully and hold their shape during cooking. The classic, neon red maraschino cherries are still staples, but you can swap them out for the naturally colored dark maraschino variety, or even fresh or frozen if you choose (although you’ll lose that pleasant bitter-sweet almond flavor if you do). And if you don’t want to buy an entire carton of buttermilk for just 1/2 cup, squeeze 1-2 teaspoons of lemon juice into 1/2 cup of milk, and let the mixture sit at room temperature for 10-15 minutes. It’ll curdle nicely into buttermilk all on its own.

Speaking of health and MCAS, corn is on my list of moderate food triggers, so as much as I love it, I can only tolerate small amounts. This entire cake contains just 1/4 cup (about 45 grams), which isn’t enough to cause me any issues. If it’s a problem for you, you can substitute an equal amount of almond flour or coarsely ground steel-cut oats instead.

A Note on Springform Pans: My springform pan connection was loose and unfortunately much of my caramel seeped out instead of creating a thick shellac over my fruit pieces. The cake was still delicious and appealing, but a bit disappointing in that regard. To avoid a similar issue, wrap the outside of your springform tightly with foil before pouring the caramel over the fruit.

Cornmeal-Ricotta Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

Makes: 8-10 servings
Active Time: 40 minutes | Baking Time: 35 minutes
Special Equipment: One 8- to 9-inch springform pan; electric hand or stand mixer; 8- to 10-inch non-stick skillet

1/2 cup (130 g) whole milk ricotta
1/4 cup (45 g) coarsely ground yellow cornmeal (I used Bob’s Red Mill)
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 cup (175 g) gluten-free 1:1 flour blend (I used King Arthur)
1 1/4 tsp. salt, divided
3/4 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. ground allspice
8 Tbsp. (1 stick / 113 g) butter, at room temperature, divided
3 Tbsp. (45 g) dark brown sugar
1/2 firm-ripe pineapple, trimmed, halved, cored, and sliced into 1/4-inch thick wedges (12 oz. / 340 g)
1/4 cup (75 g) maraschino cherries, halved
3/4 cup (205 g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1/2 cup buttermilk

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line an 8- to 9-inch springform pan with a round of parchment (optional, but it ensures the caramelized pineapple won’t stick to the springform when you unmold it), and place on a rimmed baking sheet. In a small bowl, mix the ricotta, cornmeal, and vanilla until evenly combined; set aside. In a separate small bowl, whisk the flour, 1 tsp. of the salt, the baking powder and soda, and the allspice; set aside.

2. Heat 2 Tbsp. of the butter in a large non-stick skillet over medium high heat, swirling to coat the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle the dark brown sugar and the remaining 1/4 tsp. of salt evenly over the bottom of the skillet—Do NOT stir (or the sugar will clump and not caramelize the pineapple wedges properly). Arrange the pineapple wedges evenly over the sugar mixture and cook, without disturbing, until dark golden on one side and caramelized at the edges, 8-10 minutes.

3. With a pair of tongs, remove the pineapple wedges from the skillet and transfer them caramelized side-down to the bottom of the prepared springform pan, arranging them in a concentric circle, if desired. Place the halved maraschinos cut side-down in the spaces between the wedges. Using a rubber spatula, scrape the remaining caramel syrup from the skillet over top of the pineapple wedges and cherry pieces. Transfer the springform to the oven while you make the cake batter, 8-10 minutes.

4. In a medium bowl, beat the remaining 6 Tbsp. of butter. with the granulated sugar on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating thoroughly between additions. Stir in the ricotta-cornmeal mixture until evenly combined. Stir in the flour mixture, followed by the buttermilk, until a smooth batter forms.

5. Remove the springform pan from the oven and pour the cake batter over the top of the caramelized fruit. Using a rubber spatula, gently and evenly spread the batter to cover the fruit entirely. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the cake is golden and puffed, and has slightly pulled away from the edges of the pan, about 35 minutes. Let cool for 8-10 minutes before unmolding the sides of the springform. Place a large plate over the top of the cake and carefully invert the cake so that it’s sitting on the plate. Remove the springform base and the layer of parchment (if using) from the caramelized fruit layer now on top of the cake.

I often default to braised chicken thighs for an easy, weeknight meal that everyone likes and can last through several nights of leftovers. The aromatics often depend on what needs to be used up in my crisper drawer, which in turn often depends on the time of year. Coming off of a long winter, sweet licorice-y fennel and late winter lemons were this week’s winner. I rounded out the Mediterranean-leaning flavors with more of the same, including thyme, dates, and capers, but feel free to use whatever you prefer or have on-hand.

Coating the skin of the thighs in a neutral starch before browning is a trick I picked up in my restaurant days to achieve ethereally crisp, golden skin. In this preparation, it doubles as a method of naturally thickening the braising liquid slightly for an au jus effect.

If you don’t have whole coriander or cumin seeds, or don’t want to go to the trouble of toasting them, then using pre-ground is fine.

I often serve this over white rice, but orzo or couscous would be fantastic choices for non-celiacs as well.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Lemon, Fennel, & Dates

Makes: 8 servings
Total Time: 2 hours
Special Equipment: One 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven; mortar & pestle or spice grinder

2 tsp. coriander seeds
1 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (3.5 lbs. / 1600 g)
Kosher salt, to taste
1/4 cup (30 g) arrowroot or tapioca starch (or cornstarch)
3 Tbsp. (40 g) olive oil
2 medium sweet onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups / 555 g)
1 medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced (4 cups / 370 g)
3 large cloves of garlic, crushed (20 g)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tsp. smoked paprika
2 tsp. harissa
2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
2 bay leaves
2 dried chile de arbol
1/2 cup (4 oz. / 140 g) dry sherry (optional)
1 Qt. (950 ml) chicken stock
1 cup (130 g) pitted Medjool dates, thinly sliced lengthwise
2 lemons, 1 thinly sliced, 1 juiced (about 2 Tbsp.)
1/4 cup (10 g) chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup (45 g) drained capers
Cooked white rice, for serving (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 325° with a rack in the center. Heat the Dutch oven over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Add the coriander and fennel seeds and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and lightly toasted, 3-4 minutes. Let cool slightly, transfer to the mortar or spice grinder, and coarsely grind; set aside.

2. Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels and liberally season with salt. (Do not pepper the skin as the pepper can burn.) Arrange skin side-up and dust heavily with the arrowroot or tapioca starch, coating the skin completely. Return the Dutch oven to medium heat and add the olive oil. Add half the chicken thighs skin-down and cook until crisp and golden-brown, 8-10 minutes. Flip the thighs and cook 2-3 minutes more. Transfer to a rimmed tray or large plate and repeat with the remaining chicken; set aside.

3. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the onions, fennel, and garlic to the pan, and cook until softened and lightly caramelized, 10-12 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in the ground coriander and cumin seeds, the paprika, harissa, thyme, bay leaves, and chile de arbol and cook until fragrant, 2-3 minutes more. Add the sherry and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is almost entirely evaporated, 4-5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer, 8-10 minutes.

4. Stir the dates, sliced lemon, and chopped parsley into the stock mixture and arrange the chicken thighs skin side-up over top in a single layer. Cover tightly with the lid or foil and transfer to the oven. Cook 35 minutes, uncover, and continue to cook 20-25 minutes more, until the liquid is slightly reduced and the chicken is extremely tender and the skin is dark golden brown. Stir in the lemon juice and capers, and season to taste. Serve over rice if desired.

We have an Easter potluck brunch tradition with some neighborhood friends and this year I brought scones. The frittata, Funeral Potatoes, breakfast meats, and fruit were already covered, and I wanted something a little sweet to complement the meal without qualifying as full-blown dessert. I’m not the only gluten-free brunch attendee, and scones are easy to transport, come in single-serving portions, and don’t need a fork to eat.

Rice flour is a sturdy, dependable base for scones, ensuring that they won’t simply crumble into pieces at the slightest provocation (a common issue with sans-gluten baked goods). Adding non-fat milk powder as a dry ingredient in addition to the usual starches softens the crumb texture, helps retain moisture, and improves browning, all areas where rice flour is lacking.

The colorful pop of the jewel-toned dried fruits along with the bright freshness of lemon evoke spring to me, but depending on the time of the year or what you have on-hand, you can adapt the add-ins and icing flavors however you like. Cranberry-orange, blueberry-vanilla, strawberry-lemon, or cherry-pistachio all make great combos as well.

If you’d like to adapt this recipe to dairy-free, replace the standard butter and cream with non-dairy plant butter and a non-dairy creamer of choice. To substitute the nonfat dry milk, you can find several non-dairy options online at Anthony’s Goods.

Gluten-Free Cherry & Apricot Scones with Lemon Icing

Makes: 8 scones
Total Time: 50 minutes
Special Equipment: A pastry brush; a piping bag with a plain small tip (optional)

Scones:
1 1/3 cups (235 g) white rice flour, plus more for dusting
1/3 cup (45 g) tapioca starch
1/4 cup (45 g) potato starch
1/4 cup (25 g) nonfat dry milk powder
1/4 cup (60 g) granulated sugar
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped (optional)
Zest of 1 lemon (1 tsp.)
8 Tbsp. (1 stick / 113 g) cold butter, cubed
1 large egg
1/2 cup (115 g), plus 1 tbsp. heavy cream, divided
1 tsp. vanilla
1/3 cup (55 g) dried cherries
1/4 cup (50 g) chopped dried apricots
2 Tbsp. (25 g) demerara or granulated sugar

Lemon Icing:
3/4 cup (120 g) confectioner’s sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, scraped, or 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. milk

1. For the Scones: Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk the rice flour, tapioca and potato starches, milk powder, granulated sugar, baking powder and soda, and salt. Stir in the vanilla bean seeds and the lemon zest to evenly distribute. Using your hands or a pastry cutter, add in the cold butter and combine until the mixture resembles shaggy clumps, 2-3 minutes. Whisk the egg, 1/2 cup of the cream, and the vanilla extract together and stir into the flour mixture until a firm dough comes together. Fold in the dried fruit.

2. Turn the dough onto a clean work surface lightly dusted with rice flour, dust the top of the dough lightly with more rice flour, and pat into an 8-inch circle about 1-inch thick. Cut into 8 wedges and transfer to the prepared baking sheet, arranging the scones at least 2 inches apart. Brush the tops of the scones with the remaining 1 Tbsp. heavy cream, and sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Bake until fragrant, puffed, and golden-brown, about 15 minutes.

3. For the Lemon Icing: While the scones are baking, whisk the confectioner’s sugar, vanilla bean seeds, lemon juice, and milk in a small bowl until very smooth. Transfer to a piping bag with a small tip, or if using a disposable bag, snip the very tip of the bag for a small opening. (If you don’t have a piping bag or don’t want to go to the trouble, dip the tines of a fork into the icing.) Let the scones cool slightly, 10-15 minutes. Drizzle the icing over the scones in a close-set zig-zag motion. Let set completely. Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to four days.

I’m not a huge soup person. I don’t hate it, or have overly dramatic opinions about it, but I feel like it exists as a limbo texture state between food and beverage that I’d rather avoid. (Smoothies belong in the same category and will never be a “must-have” for me for the same reasons.) Mixed feelings aside, there comes a time at least once or twice a year, usually in the chilly months either leading up to winter or spring, when it just makes sense to make soup. My partner, like most other people, seems to love it, and he especially loves potato-leek.

Fortunately for him, I had half a bag of potatoes left over from a recent recipe shoot, plus a lot of frozen chopped summer herbs. Add in some other kitchen staples, like bacon and homemade chicken stock in the freezer, garlic and bay leaves in the pantry, and butter and celery in the fridge, and all I really needed to buy were the leeks and fresh thyme.

This soup comes together pretty quickly, and from what I can tell from my partner’s enjoyment, its main allure lies in its creamy texture and delicate, herbaceous flavors. The soup’s rich smoothness results from the potatoes’ natural starches thickening the stock base and the finishing silkiness of the heavy cream. Cooking the leeks, celery, garlic, and herbs down in a generous butter bath melts the sharpness of the alliums down to a savory sweetness that melds perfectly with the neutral earthiness of the potatoes.

As always, you can mix and match what you have on hand to make this recipe your own. White or yellow onions, shallots, or even scallions can be used in place of leeks. And if you don’t want to buy multiple types of herbs, pick one or two of your favorite and just use those. Or you can buy all the herbs, chop everything, and freeze whatever you don’t use for future recipes and quick weeknight dinner hacks. This recipe can also be easily adapted to dairy-free by replacing the traditional butter and cream with non-dairy alternatives of your choice. For a vegan adaptation, vegetable stock can be subbed in for the chicken, and you can skip the bacon garnish entirely.

Herbed Potato Leek Soup

Makes: 8-10 servings
Total Time: 1 hour
Special Equipment: One 4- to 6-quart Dutch oven; immersion blender wand or standard blender

4 Tbsp. butter
3 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced (about 4 cups / 300 g)
2 stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup / 100 g)
3 large cloves of garlic, grated or minced (about 2 Tbsp. / 20 g)
1/2 small bunch thyme, tied tightly with twine (6-8 g)
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh or frozen dill
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh or frozen chives, plus more for garnish
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh or frozen tarragon
2 tsp. salt, plus more to taste
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
3 lbs. (1.25 K) yellow potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2- to 1-inch pieces
2 qts. (1.9 L) chicken stock
1 1/2 cups (350 g) heavy cream
Cooked crumbled bacon, for serving (if desired)

1. Heat the butter in a large 4- to 6-quart Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat. Add the leek, celery, and garlic and cook until soft and wilted, 10-12 minutes. Add the thyme bundle, bay leaves, dill, chives, tarragon, 2 tsp. salt, and pepper and continue to cook until fragrant, 1-2 minutes more.

2. Add the potatoes and stock. Partially cover, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a simmer, 12-15 minutes. Uncover and reduce the heat to medium / medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the potatoes are completely cooked through and soft, 18-20 minutes more. Turn off the heat.

3. Remove and discard the thyme bundle and bay leaves. Using an immersion blender wand, purée the soup until completely smooth, 2-3 minutes. (Alternately, purée the soup in batches in a traditional blender.) Whisk in the cream and return the heat to medium. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to steam and bubble at the edges, 10-12 minutes. Season to taste and serve with additional chives and crumbled bacon, if desired.

I owned a beautiful 4-quart trifle dish, stored in my dining room closet in its original box, for about 10 years. In that time, I used it twice, once for tiramisu, once for Eton mess. A couple years ago, fed up with limited apartment space and superfluous possessions, I sold it at a sidewalk sale. I reasoned that a once-every-five-years track record was abysmal enough to warrant letting it go. Cut to the other week, when I decided to make tiramisu, my all-time favorite dessert, and a brief moment of panic set in. Or if not genuine panic (it was just dessert, after all), then at least a self-accusatory pang of regret for getting rid of the optimal serving vessel, the yin to tiramisu’s yang.

Then practicality set in, and I realized that most people probably don’t own a trifle dish and never have, but almost everyone has a 13x9-inch casserole dish, which works just fine. Would it showcase the myriad delicate layers of creamy custard suspended between coffee-soaked sponge, with that dark velvety line of rich cocoa separating them? Nah, but it would taste just as good, and be waaaaay more practical to store and serve.

You may be wondering, if tiramisu is my favorite dessert, why I’ve made it so infrequently. In answer, I’m not sure, other than I tend to do that with most, if not all, of my favorite things. Rigatoni bolognese, which I shared in a recent post, is my favorite meal, and yet I make it approximately once a year. I likewise wear my favorite sweater, favorite t-shirt, and favorite jacket just as infrequently. I think my mindset has always been to save the things I love for fear of seeing them wear out, or at least of the shine wearing off.

Personal psychology aside, tiramisu is one of those desserts whose elegant associations belie its simple preparation. There is zero cooking involved (unless of course you opt to make your own ladyfingers, or count heating water for coffee as “cooking”), and the most difficult step is whipping egg whites, which may seem intimidating to the uninitiated, but actually couldn’t be easier.

One helpful tip I rely on is letting my eggs and mascarpone sit out at room temperature for about 30 minutes before making the custard. This allows the mascarpone to smoothly incorporate into the egg yolk-sugar mixture without seizing or clumping, and encourages the beaten egg whites to attain more volume more quickly. I also wipe down my bowl and beaters with white vinegar before whipping my whites, as even a small amount of fat, oil, or grease residue can interfere with the whites’ aeration, leading to a flat meringue unable to achieve stiff peaks. And finally, I used Schär gluten-free ladyfingers in this recipe, but if you have trouble finding a gluten-free product, or just prefer to make your own, there’s a legitimate recipe in Bake It Gluten Free by Dana Pollack, a cookbook I personally styled, and whose recipes I endorse.

Gluten-Free Tiramisu

Makes: one 13x9-inch pan | about 12 servings
Active Time: 30 minutes | Chilling Time: 4 hours or overnight
Special Equipment: hand and/or stand mixer; 13x9-inch baking dish; fine-mesh sieve

3 cups (710 ml) cold brew or strong coffee, cooled slightly
1/3 cup (80 ml) creme de cacao, vodka, or cognac (optional)
3 tsp. vanilla, divided
6 large eggs, separated*
1 cup (200 g) sugar, divided
1/2 vanilla bean pod, seeds scraped (optional)
16 oz. (450 g) mascarpone
1 tsp. white vinegar
1/2 tsp. salt
14 oz. (400g) gluten-free ladyfingers
2 Tbsp. Dutch-process cocoa powder

1. In a shallow bowl or pie plate, whisk the coffee, creme de cacao, and 1 tsp. of vanilla to combine; set aside.

2. In a large bowl, using your hand mixer or your stand mixer’s whisk attachment, beat the remaining 2 tsp. vanilla, the egg yolks, 3/4 cup of sugar, and the vanilla bean seeds on medium speed until pale yellow and roughly doubled in volume, 2-3 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. of the coffee mixture, and the mascarpone, and beat until smooth, 1 minute more; set aside. (If using your stand mixture, transfer the mascarpone mixture to a separate large bowl, and thoroughly wash and dry the stand mixer bowl and whisk attachment. If using your hand mixture, thoroughly wash and dry the beaters.)

3. Dampen a clean paper towel with the vinegar and wipe out the clean bowl of your stand mixer and its whisk attachment, or a large bowl and the clean beaters of your hand mixer. Beat the egg whites and salt on medium speed until foamy and roughly tripled in volume, 3-4 minutes. While still beating, slowly sift in the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar. Increase the speed to high and beat until stiff, glossy peaks form, 2-3 minutes more.

4. Transfer about 1/4 of the beaten egg whites to the bowl with the mascarpone mixture, and using a rubber spatula, gently incorporate the whites into the denser mixture by scooping the mascarpone mixture up from the bottom and over the whites in a folding motion. (This first fold is primarily meant to loosen up the mascarpone mixture, making it easier to incorporate the remaining whites, rather than retaining any airiness.) Repeat this step with the remaining quarter-batches of whites until fully incorporated and the resulting custard is light, airy, and cream-colored; set aside.

5. Quickly dip half of the ladyfingers into the coffee mixture one at a time and arrange in a single layer over the bottom of the baking dish. (If the ladyfingers absorb too much coffee too quickly, use a pastry brush dipped in the coffee mixture to liberally brush the tops and bottoms of the ladyfingers instead.) Evenly spread half of the mascarpone mixture over the ladyfingers, and using a fine-mesh sieve, liberally dust the mascarpone layer with half of the cocoa powder. Repeat the layering with the remaining coffee, ladyfingers, mascarpone mixture, and cocoa powder. Cover tightly with plastic or foil, making sure not to touch the surface of the tiramisu, and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

*For those of you concerned about consuming raw eggs, I unfortunately don’t have any tips or advice, other than that this recipe may not be for you.

I hate stodgy, starchy store-bought hummus almost as much as I love pickles. So it seems like a no-brainer to make my own satiny smooth hummus with pickles. There’s no soaking, cooking, peeling, etc. of dried chickpeas in this recipe. I don’t have that kind of patience, and while some people swear by the vast and noticeable improvements in flavor and texture achieved by starting with dried beans, I’m not one of them. As a bonus, there’s also no need to shell the skins from the canned chickpeas—a tedious, finicky job that’s rendered obsolete by my preparation method.

The secret to this hummus’ allure for me is two-fold: the first is cooking the canned chickpeas with baking soda to make them meltingly tender (including those pesky skins); the second is pureeing the chickpeas with a hefty dose of tart pickle juice in place of the usual water. As an honorable mention, I prefer adding several cloves of fresh garlic to the chickpeas while they cook, for a milder, more subtle garlic flavor without the harsh burn and bite of raw.

I top the finished warm and velvety concoction with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of Aleppo pepper, a tablespoon of toasted pinenuts, and a scattering of sliced cornichons. Then I dip in raw or steamed crudités, pillowy flatbread, or ruffled potato chips.

Perfect Pickle Hummus

Makes: about 2 1/2 cups
Total Time: 30 minutes
Special Equipment: A food processor

1 15-oz. (425 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 tsp. baking soda
Water, to cover
5 Tbsp. tahini
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup pickle juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Salt, to taste
Aleppo or paprika, for garnish
1 Tbsp. toasted pinenuts (optional), for garnish
3-4 cornichons, sliced, for garnish

1. Combine the chickpeas, garlic, and baking soda in a medium saucepan and cover with one inch of cool water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, without stirring, until the chickpeas are nearly falling apart, 15-20 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain well.

2. Transfer the chickpea mixture to the bowl of a food processor along with the tahini, lemon and pickle juices, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Pulse several times to combine, scraping down the sides with a spatula. Blend on high for 3-5 minutes until completely smooth. Season with salt to taste.

3. Drizzle with extra olive oil, and garnish with the Aleppo, toasted pinenuts, if desired, and sliced cornichons.

I made this for my sister’s family when I was visiting last fall, and she recently texted to ask if I could share the recipe. It had been on my mind already, as I wanted something light and fresh for dinner after weeks of hearty comfort food.

Loosely based on an amalgam of the ubiquitous spicy salmon and California rolls, this salad goes further in providing fiber, protein, and satiety than its sushi counterparts. The only overlapping ingredients in both the sushis and the salad are the salmon (though the cooked salmon of this version may have wider appeal with kids and picky eaters), avocado, and spicy dressing of the salmon roll, and the carrot, cucumber, and cream cheese of the California roll. Missing are the rice and nori, although rice vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame seeds make an appearance. In place of the sushi rice, cabbage, onion, mango, and edamame fill out the roster of bulk and fiber, while hard-boiled eggs up the protein intake.

By far the largest time expenditure for this salad is in prepping the vegetables and fruit. If you’re in a position to purchase pre-shredded carrots or cabbage (such as an undressed coleslaw mix), already hard-boiled eggs, or pre-cut mango, I say go for it to make this already easy salad even more effortless.

As always, feel free to adapt ingredients to your own needs and preferences. Instead of cucumber, you can swap in zucchini. Any kind of cabbage—Napa, Savoy, green—will work instead of purple. Don’t have red onion? Use scallions. My partner, who’s a hearty eater, often supplements this salad by serving it over a bowl of rice for a more substantial and sushi-like serving. And if I have those roasted nori snack packs on hand, I’ll often tear up a couple squares and top my salad for extra flavor and crunch.

You can absolutely forgo cooking the salmon and cube it up raw for a sashimi-style salad—just be sure to purchase a high-quality sushi-grade fish. For a dairy-free version, replace the conventional cream cheese with a vegan alternative, such as Tofutti. If you have a soy allergy, omit the edamame and substitute a liquid or coconut amino for the soy sauce.

Spicy Salmon Salad

Makes: 4-6 servings
Total Time: 45 minutes
Special Equipment: One 10- to 12-inch non-stick skillet

Dressing:
4 oz. (115 g) cream cheese, softened
1/4 cup mayo (60 g)
1 large lime, zested and juiced (about 1 tsp. and 2 Tbsp.)
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill
2 Tbsp. chili crisp
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. rice vinegar
1 tsp. gluten-free soy sauce or tamari
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

Salmon:
1/4 cup (30 g) cassava flour (or tapioca starch or rice flour)
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. togarashi (or steak seasoning)
1/2 tsp. five spice powder
1 lb. boneless, skinless salmon, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
3 Tbsp. avocado oil (or other high-heat, neutral oil such as grapeseed or canola)

Salad:
2 cups (155 g) shredded purple cabbage
1 1/2 cups (200 g) julienned cucumber (or zucchini), cut in 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup (95 g) julienned carrot, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup (170 g / 6 oz.) shelled edamame, thawed
1 cup (100 g) thinly sliced red onion
1 cup (200 g) cubed mango, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
2 hard-boiled large eggs, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces
1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut in 1/2-inch pieces
2 Tbsp. sesame seeds, for garnish

1. For the Dressing: In a small bowl, whisk the cream cheese and mayo until smooth. Whisk in the lime zest and juice, the dill, chili crisp, salt, sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired; set aside.

2. For the Salmon: In a medium bowl, whisk the cassava flour, salt, sugar, togarashi, and five-spice powder until combined. Add the salmon pieces and toss to coat. Heat the avocado oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering, 1-2 minutes. Add the salmon pieces and cook, turning once, until lightly browned and crisp, 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to cool slightly; set aside.

3. For the Salad: Combine the cabbage through avocado in a large bowl. Add the dressing and toss to combine. Gently fold in the salmon, tossing gently to coat. Garnish with sesame seed and serve immediately.