It has been a summer of feeding crowds. Everywhere I went (California, Texas, Moneglia), the table kept growing. Somewhere along the way “dinner for the family” became a nightly dinner party for 20. And I have loved every minute.

Not surprisingly, I have been relying on pasta more than ever. I cannot express my love for this staple enough: it’s endlessly versatile, inexpensive, easy to scale for any size group, and a delicious blank canvas for any flavors I want to throw its way.

Most of my favorite summer pasta recipes are barely recipes at all, but more of a spontaneous combination of seasonal ingredients. These are also perfect for the back-to-school season of hectic schedules and last-minute dinners. Here are a few of my favorites.

My Favorite Summer Pasta Recipes

Bruschetta Pasta: Fresh, diced tomatoes, basil, lots of olive oil and grated Parmigiano are combined into a bruschetta-like topping, only to be served on warm pasta instead of toasted bread. I like to squeeze some of the excess liquid out of the diced tomatoes before adding them to the bowl.

Read more

I’m back in Italy after a whirlwind trip to the U.S. which included stops on both coasts, as well as my hometown in Texas.

L.A. fed my eyes (that light! the gardens! those sunsets! the people! that ocean! those waves!) So much beauty, it is almost too much. Texas fed my heart and soul with extended family, old friends, my kids and their cousins thick as thieves, picnics, boat rides, horses, campouts, crowded dinner tables and lots of laughter. New York City fed my brain and my belly (but drained my wallet) between electrifying Broadway shows, museums, book shops, street concerts, coffee shops, exceptional restaurants and overpriced street food. It’s fair to say we made the most of it, and it was time to leave all too soon.

JFK airport was a nightmare, and our grueling flight home included someone else’s family of The World’s Most Horrible Children seated directly behind me, which had me reconsidering every life choice that led me up to that moment. We touched down in Milan the day before Ferragosto, the beloved Italian holiday that celebrates the peak of summer (and the Assumption of Mary for the Catholics) on August 15th. Milan was a ghost town. In the big inland cities, you’ll be hard pressed to find much open in the two weeks around Ferragosto. Shops are shuttered with the sign “Chiuso per ferie” (closed for holiday) hanging outside. The Italians are on vacation, mostly at the beach, but many in the mountains as well. Ferragosto is a day of celebration, feasts, sun, family and friends.

The afternoon of Ferragosto, we drove down from Milan to Moneglia on pleasantly empty highways (everyone was already settled wherever they needed to be, we were among the few stragglers racing to get somewhere in time for an evening swim before dinner). As we wound our way down the switchbacks to the seaside, we could glimpse the full beaches, the haze of the humid sea air, the smoke from various grigliate (cookouts), and could finally relax after days of traveling. We were exactly where we needed to be, just in time for Ferragosto.

Today, to celebrate the peak of Italian summer, I’m sharing a fresh and flavorful recipe from Liguria, The Cookbook. Condiggiòn is Liguria’s summer salad, a close cousin of the Niçoise and not unlike Tuscany’s panzanella, with vinegar-soaked gallette del marinaio at the base in place of bread. Gallette del marinaio (also known as hard-tack) are the hard, long-lasting biscuits that Ligurian sailors once carried at sea; look for them in Italian specialty stores, or substitute with stale or toasted bread. The salad is most rewarding now, in late summer, when tomatoes and peppers are at their peak, though it adapts well to whatever is in season. Tuna, cucumber, boiled potato, and other vegetables are all welcome additions.

Condiggiòn

Ligurian Summer Salad

• 2 cups green beans, trimmed and halved crosswise

• Salt to taste

• 1 clove garlic

• 4 gallette del marinaio (hard tack), or 4 slices of stale or toasted bread

• Extra-virgin olive oil to taste

• Red wine vinegar to taste

• 2½ cups coarsely chopped fresh tomatoes (beefsteak, heirloom, or cherry tomatoes are all nice options)

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

• 1 yellow or orange bell pepper, thinly sliced

• ¼ cup Taggiasche or Niçoise olives

• 4 to 6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, cut in half crosswise

• 16 fresh basil leaves

• 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

Serves 4

Bring a medium-sized pot of water to boil over high heat; add a tablespoon of salt. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. Cook green beans in boiling water for 5 minutes, or until they are tender but still al dente. Drain green beans and immediately transfer to the ice bath; let cool for 5 minutes. Drain beans again and set them aside to dry.

Prepare a wide, shallow salad bowl. Cut the garlic in half lengthwise and vigorously rub the inside of the bowl with the cut side of the garlic.

If using gallette del marinaio: Rub the gallette with the cut side of the garlic clove; set aside garlic for another use. Stir together 1 cup water, ½ teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons of vinegar in a wide bowl, and add gallette. Set aside for 2 to 3 minutes until the gallette are softened. Drain and squeeze them gently with your hands to remove excess liquid. Tear into bite-sized chunks and add to the salad bowl.

If using stale or toasted bread: Rub the bread with the cut side of the garlic clove; set aside garlic for another use. Tear or cut bread into bite-sized chunks and add to the salad bowl. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and a pinch of salt.

Add green beans, tomatoes, red onion, bell pepper, olives, and anchovies to the salad bowl. Tear 8 of the basil leaves in half with your hands and add to the salad. Drizzle salad with about 3 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 to 2 tablespoons of vinegar (adjusted according to taste). Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and toss gently. Cover the salad and set aside at room temperature for at least 15 minutes or up to an hour. Taste and adjust seasonings before serving.

Divide salad between 4 plates, top with hard-boiled egg pieces, garnish with remaining basil leaves, and serve immediately.

I have been crossing the Atlantic consistently since I moved to Italy 20+ years ago, and if there is one thing I’ve learned, it’s that little comforts and conveniences can feel huge when you’re in a cramped seat for over 10 hours.

I compiled a list of some of my favorite things that make the trip a little less uncomfortable. Everything on this list I bought myself and genuinely use. There are no affiliate links or commissions, nobody paid me to say any of this. Depending on the airline and cabin class you are flying, some of these things might be provided for you on board.

The Personal Item

This is the bag that stays at your feet and holds all the essentials for your flight. The exact style comes down to personal preference– some people prefer backpacks, others an oversized purse or small duffel. Regardless, the bag that stays at my feet during the flight needs to be soft and capacious, but small enough not to eat up all of your leg room. I personally use my Longchamp Le Pliage (large), which is roomy enough to hold everything I need, but fits easily under the seat and still looks stylish.

What goes inside:

• Eye mask – I used cheap disposable ones for years, the kind they hand out free on some airlines, but that was before I discovered the joys of contoured eye masks (like this one) that stay put all night, don’t put pressure on your eyelids, and actually block out all the light.

• Ear plugs – The disposable foam ones are fine, especially if you only need them on the occasional flight. But I am a very light sleeper in general (and my husband snores), so I recently upgraded to the premium Loop earplugs which block the sound more effectively, and are so much more comfortable for side-sleepers. They have afforded me so many good nights’ sleeps (and quite possibly saved my marriage). They’re fantastic at keeping sound out on the airplane too.

• Warm layer – Even if it is sweltering in July, the airplane can be glacially cold, make sure to bring a light sweatshirt or scarf/pashmina that doubles as a blanket

• Slippers – I like to bring lightweight, disposable slippers on board so I can kick off my shoes at the beginning of the flight, and don’t have to fish around for them in the dark every time I need to go to the bathroom.

• Wipes and hand sanitizer – Because planes are germy.

• Passports and wallet – Since I’m usually traveling with my family and all of our multiple passports, I use a passport holder like this one to keep everything together.

• Noise-canceling headphones with cord: Most transatlantic flights offer entertainment console, and a good pair of headphones that eliminate background noise is a major upgrade compared to the disposable headsets they hand out during the flight.

• Downloaded entertainment — Sometimes the plane doesn’t have entertainment or the screen is broken. Load up your phone or tablet with downloaded movies before boarding just in case.

• Phone, tablet, charger and power bank– Most planes have usb charging stations in the seats, and it’s nice to arrive at your destination with a full battery. A power bank is an important backup.

• Essential toiletries – Planes really dry you out, so it’s nice to have lip balm, hand cream, and face moisturizer on hand. Also, a small stick deodorant is a nice touch.

• Melatonin or sleep aids – if you use them.

• Neck pillow – if you have one you love, bring it. Personally, I have never found a neck pillow I like.

• Snacks – I pack myself and each of my kids a snack bag containing a sandwich, popcorn, granola bar and trail mix.

• Water bottle – You’ll have to empty this before security in most airports, but you can easily fill it up once you’re through. I don’t like heavy, bulky water bottles, so I use this small and lightweight model.

• Ballpoint pen – you might need this for customs forms in many countries including the US. Avoid roller balls or fountain pens, which can explode and leak with the pressure changes.

• Book or e-reader – You will be sitting still for many hours, it’s a great time to catch up on reading. I love traveling with my Kindle because it’s lightweight, compact, and can provide endless hours of reading.

The Carry On:

This is the roller bag that goes in the overhead bin and carries everything that you don’t necessarily need within reach during the flight, but that you want to have with you in the airport, or in case your checked luggage gets lost. I recently bought myself this new carry-on that I adore. It rolls so smoothly, has great internal organization and an external laptop compartment which makes it easy to access your computer for security checks.

Here is what is inside:

• Complete change of clothes — It’s easy to spill things on long flights, especially if you are traveling with children. Having a fresh set of clothes can be a lifesaver.

• Overnight essentials — Checked luggage can get lost, so make sure you have everything you need to comfortably spend a night or two without it: toothbrush, toiletries, pajamas, any medications you take regularly.

• Computer — I keep my laptop in the external compartment of my suitcase because it takes up too much space in my under-the-seat bag, but I can still access it easily during the flight if I need it.

• Valuables — jewelry, anything irreplaceable that you want to keep your eye on.

• Printed documents, itinerary and hotel confirmation — this is old school but useful if your phone dies or you lose signal at customs. It’s smart to keep photocopies of IDs and passports here too.

One last thing, and possibly the most Italian piece of advice I can give you….

The Outfit

Living in Italy for so long has hammered into my head that, no matter what circumstances, you have no excuse to look shabby. This includes air travel. A sweatsuit can be deemed acceptable, as long as it is a chic, coordinated set (I love these). Or go for a structured yet comfortable (elastic-waisted) pant, paired with a white tee, light layer and a nice, clean pair of sneakers.

The most important upgrade to my travel outfit in recent years has been compression socks. They apply light pressure throughout the flight, improving blood flow and reducing fatigue and swelling. There are tons of brands out there at various price points. I bought these which were recommended by Wirecutter and now I never fly without them.

Let me know in the comments what is in your bag on overseas flights! What are little things that bring you big comfort on those long hours on a plane?

Leave a comment

I didn’t grow up immersed in beach culture. All I remember of the few times my family ventured to the Texas coast is sunburns, tar-stained feet and jellyfish. I didn’t really understand the appeal until I moved to Italy, where “beaching” is the national sport and an undeniable art form.

It took me years to decipher the intricacies of Italian beach culture, the uniform, the customs, the codes. Here are some of the things I have learned.

Choose your beach experience:

There are two kinds of beaches in Italy, the Spiaggia Libera (free or public beach) and Stabilimenti Balneari (private beach clubs) also known as Lidi or Bagni.

At the free beach, you’ll need to bring your own chairs and umbrella (or simply a towel if you don’t fear the sun and sand), lifeguards may or may not be present, and bathroom and shower access isn’t guaranteed. At some free beaches you can rent a chair and umbrella for the day but that also isn’t guaranteed. Free beaches can get quite crowded during weekends and vacations, in some of the more popular spots you’ll need to go early to find space to lay down a towel!

Private beach clubs are a different world. For a daily fee, you’ll be provided with lounge chairs and umbrella, and have access to cold and hot showers, bathrooms, changing rooms and an on-duty lifeguard. Most bagni also offer a beachside café or restaurant for coffee, gelato, lunch and aperitivo. But what I love most about the beach club experience is the sense of community it creates. Families frequent the same clubs year after year, babies who play together turn into teenagers who flirt, the adults chat for hours at the shoreline, feet in the water. Gossip is rampant.

Booking and logistics: Beach clubs vary wildly in price depending on the region, the season, and how close you are to a famous coastline. A day with two loungers and an umbrella might run you €15 at a no-frills club in a quieter town, or €700 and up at a luxury lido on the Amalfi Coast or Forte dei Marmi. In Liguria, most beaches sit comfortably in the middle, somewhere between €25 and €80 for two for a full day.

In the more popular destinations, reservations are essential, especially in high season. Most beach clubs now have websites or Instagram pages where you can book in advance, and some fill up weeks ahead. In smaller towns you can often just show up, but arriving early (before 10am) gives you the best pick of spots.

Most clubs rent by the full day, though some offer a half-day rate if you arrive after 1 PM. Towels are sometimes provided, but not always, so ask when you book. Prices also vary according to where the umbrella is placed–you’ll pay more if you want a front row seat to the water.

In my opinion, if you’re going to spend the whole day at the beach, the club experience is unparalleled for comfort and convenience. That said, my family often opts for the public beach if we’re only going for a couple hours and want the freedom and flexibility it provides.

Wear a bikini, no matter your age or body type

Italian women prioritize their tan over any self-consciousness about covering up. You’ll find teenagers, mothers and grandmothers, with any body shape imaginable, confidently sporting tiny bikinis. I find this approach incredibly freeing. Also, don’t be surprised if some of them ditch their tops altogether, especially on public beaches. This is frowned upon in some beach clubs and family spots, so be sure to ask before you undress. Of course, feel free to sport a once-piece if you’re more comfortable covering your tummy, you won’t be alone.

Equally important is the cambio di costume, the swimsuit change, which happens multiple times a day. Many Italian women change their suit after each swim, for both style and comfort reasons. I love these cotton two-pieces from Isole e Vulcani and this striped number from Lido.

Obviously, beach fashion doesn’t stop at the swimsuit. A colorful pareo, which can double as a skirt and beach towel, is a must. As are flowy, sheer beach dresses, oversized linen shirts, chunky sunglasses, mesh or woven beach bags and wide-brimmed hats.

For more recommendations, Erica over at Ciao Bella recently published a great list of her beach favorites here. I’ve already put several of them on my wish list.

Choose your shoes carefully. This is Italy.

The good news for flip flop lovers is that they are completely appropriate on Italian beaches. The bad news? That is pretty much the only place flip flops are acceptable. Italians take great pride in their footwear and summer is no exception. For a walk around town or dining out, slip into a pair of leather sandals. Italy boasts a beautiful tradition of artisanal sandals, especially the Amalfi coast and Capri. I suggest seeking these out locally, many coastal towns have a cobbler worth finding. I love these from Maria Rosaria Ferrara (Ischia), these from Lanapo (Cinque Terre), and these from Sinischalchi (Sorrento).

Eat and drink well

Many beach clubs also offer excellent food options: seafood pastas, fried calamari, fresh grilled fish as well as salads, sandwiches and more. The exact offerings will depend on the region and local specialties. Many beachgoers simply pack a light picnic, some focaccia and fresh fruit, to get you through the day. Drinking wine or alcohol is perfectly acceptable on the beaches, though getting sloppy drunk is not.

Follow the rhythm

At first, it may look like Italians are just lounging under the sun all day, but there is a natural rhythm and unofficial schedule that they’re following. They tend to arrive around 10:00 AM and set up camp, maybe opt for a coffee or cappuccino at the bar, and take a first swim, con calma (unhurried), after they’ve digested their breakfast. This is followed by couple of hours of sunbathing, reading, and chatting, and a last swim before lunch. Depending on the “heaviness” of the meal, there is a mandatory break from swimming; the digestion break is taken very seriously in Italy. Swimming too soon after eating is believed to cause serious harm, and no Italian mother will let you near the water for at least an hour after lunch, no matter how hot it is. This is a perfect time to doze under the umbrella, and mothers will often chide noisy children for disturbing their elders during this unofficial nap time.

Another swim, more sunbathing and chatting until 4:00 PM rolls around and it’s time for gelato or espresso, or both (affogato). More swimming, sunbathing, chatting, reading, and suddenly the shadows are lengthening and the families with smaller children start packing up. Around 7:00, it’s aperitivo time, with spritzes and potato chips and olives on the beach, until the sun goes down and the last straggling beachgoers shake out their towels and head home.

That’s it for today! It’s a Sunday here in Moneglia and I’m putting the final touches on this article just in time to take the kids down to the beach and follow our own rhythm until the sun goes down. See you there!

Of all the things I love about summer, taking advantage of my outdoor cooking toys in Moneglia is high on the list. After a long year of cooking alone in my tiny Milanese kitchen, the chance to gather with friends and family and cook with fire under the open sky, for me, is deeply satisfying, the epitome of summer.

Last week we dusted off our outdoor pizza oven and I pulled out my tried-and-true dough recipe which I’m sharing with you today. This recipe is ideal for outdoor, high-heat pizza ovens, as it contains no sugar or oil which cause the dough to brown to quickly in high heat.

Before we get to the recipes, here are a few tips for success when planning your pizza party.

Make the dough ahead: The cold, slow rise in the refrigerator is not just a convenient, make-ahead suggestion. Over 48 to 72 hours, the yeast works slowly, developing complex flavor and a lighter, more digestible texture that you simply cannot achieve with a same-day dough. Plan ahead and you’ll taste the difference. If you’re in a pinch, you can skip the refrigerator step and let the dough rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1 to 2 hours, then shape and cook immediately, but I highly recommend taking the time to get it perfect.

Topping tips: Less is more! The sauce should be a simple tomato purée with a dash of salt, not a cooked pasta sauce, and it needs to go on sparingly or the dough gets soggy. Fresh mozzarella needs to be drained and patted dry first (I shred mine by hand and let drain in a colander for a few hours before cooking, then pat with paper towels). Some toppings should go on only after the pizza is cooked, like fresh basil, pesto, prosciutto, arugula, and a drizzle of good olive oil. Anything that needs heat to melt or cook through goes on before cooking (cheese, tomato sauce, sausage, mushrooms, olives, capers, vegetables, etc).

Set up your workflow: this makes the difference between a chaotic mess and a smooth pizza night. Prep all toppings before you start cooking, and keep them in small bowls close at hand. You’ll need two people manning the pizza station: one who stretches the dough and adds toppings, the other in charge of the oven (stoking the fire and cooking the pies). Decide beforehand who does what to avoid bottlenecks when you’re cooking for a crowd. The logistics of outdoor pizza night are half the battle.

Your secret nonstick weapon: Use semolina flour (semola rimacinata, the finely ground version) on your pizza peel, not regular flour. Regular flour burns at high heat and turns bitter. Semola is coarser, acts like little ball bearings under the dough, and helps the pizza slide off the peel cleanly into the oven.

Read more

My brother and his family visited last week, and I got to feel like a visitor again. As I guided our group on rented bikes through dark tunnels that opened onto spectacular sea views, I thought “why on earth don’t I do this more often?”

It’s a beautiful thing, to transition from a visitor to a local. You fall into the rhythm of a place and begin to notice the nuances, discern between the best bakeries or butchers, the guy at the coffee shop knows your name, and you can just order “the regular.”

But once you’ve established “local” status in a place, you become accustomed to the beauty, the novelty wears off, and you stop doing the touristy things, the more ambitious activities you would plan as a newcomer. And that’s why visitors are wonderful.

They swoop in, wide-eyed and full of awe, all “look at that!” and “what’s this?” and “OhMyGod this is the best thing I’ve ever tried.” That wonder is contagious. You begin to see through their eyes, the landscapes refreshed, somehow more colorful, more beautiful than yesterday.

This is also why I so enjoy my retreats and tours: meeting travelers from different walks of life, hearing their stories, sharing the places so close to my heart, and reliving the joy of discovering them for the first time.

If you’d like to join me, my most popular Liguria retreat next Spring is open for booking now, and I have two last-minute spots just open up for my Fall 2026 Western Riviera Retreat.

Or, if you’re planning your own trip to Milan or Liguria, you can always reach out about my private food tours and experiences. I’ll share all my favorite spots with you if you’ll lend me your eyes.

Retreat and Tour Info

With my brother’s visit as a convenient excuse, we took the opportunity to do one of my favorite kid-friendly Ligurian experiences: biking through the century-old train tunnels between Levanto and Framura, converted into pedestrian and bike paths.

You can rent bikes in either Framura or Levanto for about 10 euros per bike. Don’t expect anything fancy — these are sturdy, upright city bikes with baskets and wide saddles, not sleek racing bikes. But they are perfectly suited to the terrain and, honestly, to the mood.

Follow the path toward the beachfront and into the cool, dark tunnels, a perfect escape from the summer heat. They open up to secret swimming spots and panoramic views of the rocky coast. Halfway, stop in the adorable village of Bonassola for a gelato or focaccia and a swim.

The ride is suitable for beginners and children, as it is flat and mostly traffic-free. The bike paths run about 5.5 km (3.4 miles) from Levanto to Framura, about 11 km (6.8 miles) roundtrip. Our group consisted of several kids aged 10 to 15, and it took us about an hour including a few pit stops.

It’s a low-stress way to explore the coastline, escaping both the heat and the crowds of the more famous beaches and villages. As I pedaled between the ancient brick-lined tunnels and the glimpses of glistening Mediterranean beyond, I once again felt profoundly lucky to live here, and grateful for the visitors who let me see it all over again.

In my mind, strawberry shortcakes are the perfect summer dessert. I mentioned this recipe in my Live with a few weeks ago, and some of you reached out for the recipe.

I first created this recipe for my old blog, Un’americana in Cucina, when I was busy teaching Italians how to make, good, authentic American classics, often with a twist of Italian flavor…. and it has been a longstanding hit.

In this version, I use both fresh and cooked strawberries, and add a twist of basil to both the cream and berries, to keep things interesting. You can prepare the biscuits and the cooked berries a day in advance, but I recommend assembling the rest of the dessert right before serving.

Leave a comment

Strawberry Shortcakes with Basil

Basil Cream

• 1 cup chopped fresh basil leaves, packed

• 2 cups heavy whipping cream

Biscuits

• ¼ cup (50 g) sugar

• 1 tablespoon baking powder

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 2 cups (280 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for surface

• 6 tablespoons (90 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into pieces

• 1 cup (230 g) heavy cream

• 1 egg

Berries

• 1½ pounds (about 700 g) fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered

• 4 tablespoons sugar, divided

8 servings

For the basil cream: Combine chopped basil and cream to a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate for about 7 hours or overnight.

For the biscuits: Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

In a food processor, pulse 50 g sugar, baking powder, salt and flour until combined. Add cold butter chunks, and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal but with some small chunks of butter remaining. Pour cream over flour mixture, and pulse until some large clumps begin to form.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for one minute, then pat it out to about 3/4 inch thickness. Using a 2.5-inch biscuit cutter, cut out 8 rounds and transfer them to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Make an egg-wash by combining 1 egg with 1 teaspoon of water, and beating with a fork until well combined. Brush the tops of the biscuits with the egg wash and transfer them to the preheated oven. Cook until tops are golden brown and biscuits are cooked through, about 15-20 minutes.

For the berries: Divide the strawberries in half: use any bruised or ugly berries to make the compote, and reserve the fresher ones to use fresh. Combine half of the strawberries with 2 tablespoons sugar in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until mixture has thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let compote cool.

Meanwhile, toss basil, 1 Tbsp. sugar, and the other half of the strawberries in a medium bowl and let marinade for 10–15 minutes. Discard basil.

Finish and assemble: Remove infused cream from the refrigerator and strain with a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Press the leaves against sieve to extract as much cream as possible. Discard leaves.

Using an electric mixer, beat cream and remaining 1 Tbsp. sugar to soft peaks, about 4 minutes.

Split shortcakes and fill with berry compote, whipped basil cream, and macerated strawberries. Serve immediately.

In this adapted excerpt from Liguria, The Cookbook, I share an overview of the region's wines, plus producer recommendations I've added especially for Substack.

Winemaking in Liguria is not for wimps and, in some of the vineyards I've visited, could be considered downright heroic. Most of the region is besieged by rugged, mountainous terrain: poor, rocky soil dominated by steep hillsides that often fall directly into the sea. However, despite the hardships and inhospitable landscape, Ligurians have been producing wine since the Etruscan and Roman eras.

Over the centuries, the rocky slopes have been carved into terraces, reinforced by hand-stacked, dry rock walls. These steep inclines are often entirely inaccessible to machinery, and harvesting must be done by hand, basket after basket of hard-won grapes carried out on strong shoulders. Some vineyards are accessible only by boat. Some are perched on treacherous mountaintops, rock walls lining painstakingly terraced slopes.

I have been repeatedly stunned by these back-breaking landscapes and humbled by the will of humans to make wine.

Paradoxically, Liguria's problematic terrain is also what makes its winemaking possible. The plunging hillsides protect seaside vineyards from cold northern winds and expose the grapes to the warm sea breeze and mild climate, resulting in unique and delicious wines.

Not surprisingly, Liguria is not one of Italy's most prolific wine regions; it's actually amongst the least productive. However, its wines are worth seeking out as they are delicious, charming, and pair beautifully with the local cuisine.

Some Ligurian Wines to Try:

The producers marked with an asterisk (*) farm organically, biodynamically, or according to natural winemaking principles.

White wines

Vermentino: This is the most common wine in Liguria. I spend my summers drinking Vermentino del Golfo del Tigullio, which is grown and produced in the area around our summer home in Moneglia, and also includes the famous wines of Portofino. Vermentino dei Colli di Luni is also wildly popular in the area. Persistent, fruity, and dry, Vermentino pairs well with appetizers, seafood, fresh pasta with pesto, and mixed fried fish.

• La Ricolla* – OUA (Golfo del Tigullio)

• Cà du Ferrà* — Luccicante (Colline di Levanto)

• Prima Terra Walter De Batté* — Carlaz (Cinque Terre)

• Giacomelli — Boboli (Colli di Luni)

• Il Torchio* — Il Torchio Vermentino (Colli di Luni)

• Cantine Lunae — Colli di Luni Etichetta Nera (Colli di Luni)

• Punta Crena — Vermentino Vigneto Isasco (Ponente)

Pigato: The pigato grape grows almost exclusively in Ponente, the western part of Liguria, where I recommend trying a Pigato di Riviera Ligure di Ponente. Considered to be more refined and elegant than vermentino, this lightly fragrant wine has delicate notes of aromatic herbs and goes well with savory vegetable tarts, seafood dishes, and pesto.

• Bruna — U Baccan (Ponente)

• BioVio* — Grand Père (Ponente)

• Tenuta Selvadolce* — Pigato ‘Rucantu’ (Ponente)

Bianchetta Genovese: Produced in Val Polcevera, the valley and hills surrounding Genoa, this is the classic wine of the longshoremen and sailors who frequented the city’s port. It is a simple, straightforward, and extremely drinkable white whose famous pairing is, naturally, a crisp slice of Genovese focaccia. It also makes a great aperitivo alongside fried appetizers and fritters.

• Villa Cambiaso — Colline del Genovesato Igt Bianchetta (Genoa)

• La Ricolla* — Ninte de Ninte (Golfo del Tigullio)

• Bisson — Portofino Bianchetta Genovese DOC “Ü Pastine” (Golfo del Tigullio)

Colline di Levanto Bianco: This delightful white is produced in the province of La Spezia between Levanto, Bonassola, and Framura. Native grape varieties, bosco and albarola are blended with vermentino to create a dry, slightly briny, well balanced wine that pairs beautifully with vegetarian dishes, stuffed vegetables, seafood soups, and marinated anchovies.

• Cà du Ferrà* — Bonazolae (Colline di Levanto)

Cinque Terre Bianco: Bosco, albarola, and vermentino grapes make up this delicate, straw-colored white that has a hint of flowers and meadow herbs, produced inside the National Park of Cinque Terre. It goes nicely with light appetizers and seafood dishes.

• Possa* — Cinque Terre Bianco Anfora (Cinque Terre)

• Terenzuola* — Cinque Terre Bianco (Cinque Terre)

• La Polenza — Cinque Terre DOC (Cinque Terre)

Colli di Luni Bianco: Made from vermentino and trebbiano toscano grapes, this wine is delicate and harmonious, with floral notes and pleasant salinity. Pair it with vegetable soups, fresh salads, and seafood stews.

• Il Torchio* — Colli di Luni Il Bianco (Colli di Luni)

Other whites and blends worth trying:

• Possa* — U Giancu (Cinque Terre)

• Terrazze Singhie* — Lumassina di Bosco (Colline Savonesi)

• Prima Terra Walter De Batté* — Saladero (Cinque Terre)

• Cian Cianin* — Contatto (Cinque Terre)

Red Wines

Rossese di Dolceacqua: Made exclusively with the rossese grape, this flavorful, full-bodied red pairs well with rabbit, meat, and mushroom dishes and was a favorite of both Napoleon and Pope Paul III.

• Bruna — Rossese (Ponente)

• Maccario Dringenberg — Posaù Rossese di Dolceacqua (Ponente)

• Terre Bianche — Bricco Arcagna (Ponente)

• Tenuta Selvadolce* — Rossese ‘Rosso..se’ (Ponente)

• A Trincea — Roccese (Ponente)

Ormeasco di Pornassio: The ormeasco grape was imported to Liguria from Piedmont around the 1300s and belongs to the same family as dolcetto. It has a ruby red color, dry, warm flavor, and notes of ripe red fruit, and pairs nicely with meat-filled pasta and braised meats.

• Lupi — Ormeasco Pornassio (Ponente)

• Ramoino — Ormeasco di Pornassio (Ponente)

Colli di Luni Rosso: This wine reflects its geographical proximity to Tuscany and is made with a blend of sangiovese (Tuscany’s principal red wine grape) and Ligurian ciliegiolo. This ruby-colored, fragrant, light, and balanced red goes beautifully with ravioli and meat dishes.

• Cantine Lunae — Niccolò V Riserva Colli di Luni DOC Rosso (Colli di Luni)

Other Reds and Blends worth trying:

• Prima Terra Walter De Batté* — Cericò (Cinque Terre)

• Possa* — “U Neigru” (Cinque Terre)

Dessert Wine

Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà: Pronounced “shah-keh-trah,” this sweet raisin wine is as fun to say as it is to drink. Sciacchetrà is one of the most famous and exquisite wines of Liguria and is also under the protection of Slow Food. Made from bosco, albarola, and vermentino grapes, that are left to dry naturally for two months on racks, then crushed, the wine is then aged in small oak barrels for one year. The fresh notes of dried fruit and aromatic herbs pair well with aged cheeses and traditional Ligurian sweets.

• Possa*— Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà Underwater (Cinque Terre)

• A Scià — Sciacchetrà Riserva (Cinque Terre)

One of my summertime staples that is never far from my mind this time of year is this goodie-filled farro salad. It appears on our table so frequently that my husband began to suspect it was doubling in volume overnight, quietly rising like bread dough in the refrigerator. He isn’t entirely wrong. I tend to make a huge batch of farro that I keep in the fridge for days, adding different veggies, cheeses, flavors and dressings to fit the mood.

Often called the father of all wheat, farro is said to be one of the oldest cultivated grains. It is actually a term that refers to three ancient types of wheat: einkorn, emmer (the most common variety found in stores), and spelt. It comes in pearled, semi-pearled and whole forms. I usually opt for the semi-pearled because it’s quicker to cook than the whole farro, yet still has some of the bran (therefore nutrients) intact.

No matter which version you choose, farro has a hearty chew and nutty flavor that lends itself perfectly to salads. It’s absorbent enough to soak up all the flavors you throw at it, but sturdy enough to retain a satisfying bite without the grains turning soggy or spongy.

I have experimented with countless versions of this salad with different seasonal vegetables and flavor pairings, though I most often come back to the version below, which features cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, olives and feta.

In any case, my secret to a great farro salad is an herb-packed vinaigrette that coats every grain with flavor. Below is my standard recipe, but I tweak it regularly. Feel free to swap out vegetables, herbs and flavors at will.

Here are a few other pairings you might want to try out in your farro salads this summer:

• tuna + parmigiano + green beans + olives

• shrimp + citrus + garlic + pistachio + arugula

• mozzarella + basil + olives

• roasted bell peppers + grilled zucchini + thyme + capers

What is on your table?

What grain salad is your go-to summertime staple? I would love some new ideas!

Leave a comment

My Favorite Farro Salad

• 3 cups (600 g) cooked farro (from about 1 cup/200g dry)

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

• 1/2 cup white wine vinegar, for soaking onion

• 3 tablespoons finely minced parsley

• 2 tablespoons finely minced dill

• 3 tablespoons finely minced basil

• 2 tablespoons finely minced mint

• 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

• Salt, to taste

• 1 English cucumber, cut lengthwise, seeded, chopped into small cubes

• 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes

• 5 ounces (140 g) feta cheese, cut into cubes

• 1/2 cup pitted black olives, halved if large

• 1 can olive-oil packed tuna, drained, optional

Serves 4-6

Place the onion slices in a small bowl and pour over the white wine vinegar and a pinch of salt. If not completely covered, add cold water until all slices are submerged. Set aside for 30 minutes to soak.

Meanwhile, cook the farro in salted water according to package instructions, drain and transfer to a large bowl. Drain and rinse the onions and stir them into the farro while it’s still warm. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, prepare the vinaigrette. Combine the fresh herbs, red wine vinegar, olive oil and a generous pinch of salt in a small food processor or blender and blend into a thick green dressing. Taste and adjust salt as desired.

Pour the dressing over the farro and mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. Add cucumber, tomatoes, feta, olives, and tuna, if using. Stir well and refrigerate until ready to serve. Taste again before serving; it might need another splash of olive oil and vinegar as it absorbs flavors while resting.

Full disclosure: there is no way I am impartial about Moneglia. I have been spending every summer, countless weekends, and most important holidays here for over twenty years. I was married in its ancient church, the same one that saw the weddings of Emilio’s grandmother, mother, cousins, and more generations than anyone can count. I’ve watched my children grow up on these beaches, from eating sand to flirting with boys.

To say we are deeply rooted here would be an understatement, and it would be easy to dismiss my affection for the place as personal attachment. But it is also, objectively, fabulous. Over the years I’ve welcomed many guests here, all of whom have fallen in love with it just as much as I have.

Moneglia, located about 50 km (~30 miles) southeast of Genoa, is a laid-back, family-friendly town frequented primarily by Italians, with sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and steep, forested hills great for hiking. Most international tourists use the town as a jumping-off point for exploring the Cinque Terre. What many travelers discover, however, is that they prefer the natural, relaxed vibe of the town compared to the more famous, overcrowded villages down the coast.

Post-World War Two reconstruction resulted in the occasional modern monstrosity alongside Moneglia’s historic architecture. That, combined with some questionable urban planning choices over the years, has left the town overshadowed by its famous neighbors. But Moneglia is full of beauty and charm, in a real and unglossy way that has been unaltered by time or mass tourism.

Part of Moneglia’s saving grace is the difficulty of getting there. While it’s an easy train ride from neighboring towns, driving there is a bit tricky. Typically, there are two roads into town. The most direct route requires passing through a long series of extremely narrow old railway tunnels.

After the rail line was moved to a parallel route, the tunnels were converted for automobile traffic in 1930. Emilio's grandfather, Moneglia’s mayor at the time, oversaw the project, connecting the isolated town more directly to the outside world.

Back then, cars were small enough to pass in both directions. Now, traffic lights direct one-way traffic through the tunnels, turning green for just two minutes every twenty, alternating directions.

For many, this is an unwelcome obstacle, but I love the tunnels. Driving through them feels like zooming through a wormhole into another dimension. After ten minutes, you break through the other side and Moneglia stretches out in front of you like the promised land.

Unfortunately, the tunnels have been closed for what we’re told are renovations for the last couple years, with no re-opening in sight.

Which leaves you one other option for arriving in Moneglia: a torturous, switchbacked, impossibly narrow road twisting over and through the hills. Our back seat is stocked with sick bags for the kids.

However harrowing the road to Moneglia may be, it’s more than worth the journey. And this little obstacle is what keeps the swarms of day-trippers away.

Once you’ve settled in, here are a few of my usual haunts and favorite stops in Moneglia.

What to try

Read more

OK, we get it. The Cinque Terre are adorable, and so picturesque, and oh those colorful houses piled on top of one another over rocky beaches, and those cute little fishing boats… You know what’s not cute? Being herded down tiny cobblestone streets surrounded by hordes of sweaty humans, cheap souvenirs, subpar restaurants, long lines, packed trains, overpriced everything, and impossible crowds.

It didn’t start out this way. The Cinque Terre villages, with their ancient history and traditions that are still very much alive, date back to the 11th century. For most of that time, the towns were poor and extremely isolated, only accessible by sea until 1874 when the railroad opened. The 1960s brought roads and the first tourists, but it wasn’t until the 1970s that tourism began to develop and bring some wealth to the villages.

Rick Steves is widely credited with putting the Cinque Terre on the international tourist map with his wildly successful guidebook, Europe Through the Back Door, first published in 1980. I looked up an original copy on archive.org to read it for myself, and it felt like stepping into a time machine.

“A sleepy, romantic and inexpensive town on the Riviera without a tourist in sight,” he begins. Trains connected all five villages for less than a dollar (it costs 10 to 20 times that today). He closes with “The tourists are looking for it, but have yet to find Italy’s Cinqueterre.”

Well, Rick, I think they’ve found it.

The irony here is not lost on me. Rick Steves’ guidebook promised “authentic, undiscovered” experiences, catapulting these sleepy villages into worldwide fame and unleashing mass tourism that has slowly eroded the very authenticity he was chasing. This, in turn, discourages future travelers and pushes me to write about other “undiscovered” corners that still feel like the real thing.

I received a comment on one of my Go Here Instead posts that said “Why do you want to ruin these lovely spots sending there tourists who want just to put a flag on the map?”

It’s a good question, and I’ve thought about it a lot. I believe that the right amount of tourism could help so many towns and regions of Italy, places that have just as much to offer – small, family-run businesses, delicious food, great wineries, deep roots and old traditions – that could all benefit greatly from a little more love. The exact same thing could have been said for the poverty-stricken Cinque Terre before the arrival of mass tourism. wrote a great article titled “Over-tourism is bad, But Tourism Helped Save Italy’s Cinque Terre” describing how people complain that the crowds have ruined the area, when in reality the Cinque Terre was in pretty bad shape before the arrival of tourism.

To be clear, the Cinque Terre still has real people, real producers, and an overabundance of beauty. You’ll still find winegrowers working dizzying terraces and making fantastic wines, families running solid trattorias, and really breathtaking views. But those things now exist in spite of the crowds, in an ecosystem defined by tourism.

So where is the sweet spot? Do we just stop traveling? Do I just stop writing? No, obviously I don’t believe that is the answer. Besides the fact that Italy’s entire economy would crumble, traveling brings a richness and connectivity to both the traveler and the destination that is irreplaceable. The strategies for managing tourism have to come from the top, from the policies and infrastructure that decide how many people a place can hold. Over-tourism, paradoxically, is not really the tourist’s fault.

said it beautifully in her post “Why I’m Asking You to Skip Florence,” from a couple years ago:

The responsibility doesn’t lie on you, planning your dream holiday to Tuscany, but on the political and economic system that is not able to manage the current flow of tourists that are choosing Italy as their holiday destination… Truly sustainable tourism happens when the government manages to reconcile the quality of life of resident citizens with the quality of experience of temporary citizens, the tourists.

I don’t have a tidy answer to this dilemma. I’m aware that every place I name risks becoming the next place a post like this is written about, but I would rather send you to a family-run trattoria in a town that needs the business than have you join the crowds in a village that’s practically drowning in them. I also believe that educating people on how to travel deeply, intentionally, and sustainably can fundamentally change the way tourists interact with a place. So I am going to keep pointing you towards the smaller corners of Italy that I love, and trust you to treat them gently.

Next week, I’ll send more of my favorite spots in Liguria, beyond Cinque Terre.

Leave a comment

Subscribe now

As promised, I’m pasting the links to some of the recipes we mentioned during the episode below.

Laurel’s Recipes

Domenica’s Recipes

Buona Domenica

Peperoni Arrosto con Bagnèt Verd

Silky lobes of roasted peppers form a bed for piquant sauce in this colorful fall antipasto from Piemonte. October peppers in Italy are large and rectangular and demand attention. Roasting them whole until they nearly—but not quite—collapse makes them easy to peel and coaxes out their sweetness. Both in color and taste, they are a natural partner for th…

Read more

a year ago · 5 likes

Buona Domenica

Gilda's Insalata di Riso

My mom had three older sisters, none of whom ever married. They shared an apartment in Rome, near Villa Ada, and each managed to forge for herself a respectable career in an era where most Italian women stayed home and raised children…

Read more

a year ago · 4 likes

Buona Domenica

Minestra di Pasta e Piselli

In spring, you might find fresh English peas, still in their pods, at your local farmers’ market, just waiting to be shelled and turned into this soup. For the rest of the year, there are flash-frozen peas at your local supermarket. Either works nicely in this recipe. If you are using fresh peas, remember that they are perishable and turn starchy quickl…

Read more

3 years ago

Buona Domenica

Strawberry-Rhubarb Polenta Cake

I’ve made more than a few variations on this simple cake over the years. Sometimes I substitute almond flour for the cornmeal; or I use different seasonal fruit. Be sure to use finely ground cornmeal, as coarse-grind will give you a tough cake. Also, dollop the fruit in small clumps on top of the batter; large clumps will all sink to the bottom, which i…

Read more

3 years ago

Buona Domenica

Granita di Caffè con Panna

There are only three ingredients in granita di caffè con panna if you don’t count water: coffee, sugar, and whipping cream. So, as is the general rule with Italian ingredients, they need to be good; the espresso should be brewed strong, with just the right balance of sugar stirred in, and with cream as fresh as you can find. Here are some tips to help y…

Read more

3 years ago

Reservations just opened for our spring 2027 Liguria retreat, April 25–May 1, 2027. This is our bestselling retreat and an experience close to our hearts. This part of Liguria is where Emilio’s family has lived for generations, where we spend our summers, and where we return year after year. For us, it’s like coming home, and we can’t wait to share it with you.

Download the brochure below for details and pricing, and reach out if you’re interested in joining.

Searching For Liguria 2027

3.62MB ∙ PDF file

Download

Download

Searching for Liguria Retreat

A Week of Food, Wine & Hidden Villages on the Italian Riviera

• Dates: April 25–May 1, 2027

• Group: Max 12 guests

• Base: Lavagna (five-star boutique hotel)

We’ll cook together with the bounty of local markets, meet the artisans and producers who preserve the region’s unique flavors, and enjoy thoughtfully curated meals paired with local wines.

Each trip is limited to just 12 guests, and it always feels more like a holiday with new friends than a traditional tour. We tend to attract really fabulous people: curious, warm, fun-loving food lovers who bring so much enthusiasm and generosity to the experience.

As always, we’ll be sharing the places we personally love, places you’d be hard-pressed to find on your own, but will quickly become your new favorites.

As long as I remember, my dad has been in charge of the chickens. I grew up on a ranch in Texas, but that wasn’t anybody’s day job. Both my parents had other careers, so all the animals that cycled in and out of our lives (goats, guinea hens, turkeys, many generations of horses, dogs and cats) were there for fun. The chickens, however, had a job. They ate our kitchen scraps and, in return, provided our house with the best eggs in the world.

Dad was always messing with the chickens, filling the water, fitting the coop with an automatic door or decorating it with random metal signs picked up at yard sales. And there were always problems: a sick chicken, a coyote attack, a raccoon attack, a snake attack, a hawk even swooped down out of the sky and killed one of our roosters in broad daylight. But Dad is relentless, he has fortified, modified and upgraded the coop more times than I can count, and cared for endless generations of chickens. He refers to the hens as his “ladies,” and treats them like queens. In turn, our family has been treated to the best eggs in the world, which we call “dad’s eggs” as if he laid them himself.

Not surprisingly, I grew up to be a complete egg snob. Dad’s eggs ruined me for supermarket eggs, which are fine for making brownies, but won’t cut it in any recipe where they are the star.

This kind of egg dish is so versatile, it can include any of your favorite vegetables. As springtime slowly slips into summer, I rush to take advantage of this fleeting season’s produce, like asparagus, agretti and fava beans.

I wrote a little more in depth about agretti, or monk’s beard, in this post. It can be tricky to find outside Italy, so feel free to substitute with spinach or other chopped greens. Fava beans can also be hard to come by, but can be substituted with peas if need be.

It's important, however, that when preparing a dish that stars eggs as the main attraction, you use the best eggs you can find. Even if you don't have access to “Dad’s eggs,” any farm-fresh, free-range eggs from happy chickens make a world of difference, and notably improve the flavor and texture of the final dish.

You can read more about my dad’s chicken adventures on his Substack here.

Eggs with agretti, asparagus and feta

• 1 bunch of agretti (about 2½ packed cups)

• 10 green asparagus spears

• 1 shallot, thinly sliced

• 1 handful fresh fava beans, husked and peeled (optional)

• 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

• 3.5 oz (100g) feta cheese, cut into cubes

• 4 eggs

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 tablespoon fresh dill, roughly chopped (optional)

• 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, roughly chopped

Serves 2

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, wash the agretti, removing any hard stems. Wash the asparagus and discard the pale, woody ends. Cut the stalks into 1-inch pieces and set the tips aside.

When the water is boiling, add the agretti and cook for 3 minutes, then add the chopped asparagus stalks and continue cooking for another 3 minutes. Add the asparagus tips and cook until just tender, about 3 to 4 minutes more. Drain and transfer immediately to an ice bath to preserve their bright green color. Drain again and pat dry with paper towels.

Heat the olive oil in a cast iron skillet or any oven-safe pan over medium heat. Add the sliced shallot and cook until softened, then add the agretti and asparagus and stir to combine. Add the fava beans, lemon zest and feta and cook for another couple of minutes. Make four indentations in the vegetables and gently crack an egg into each one. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake until the egg whites are just set, 6 to 9 minutes. Sprinkle with dill and parsley and serve immediately.

I have lived in Milan for over twenty years, but somehow I consider Liguria to be more of a home. This is where Emilio’s family has lived for centuries, where we have spent entire summers, most weekends, and every important holiday. It’s where we were married, in the same church as Emilio’s mother and his grandmother. Liguria is where I learned to cook, where I preferred to spend my days in the kitchen, peeking over the shoulders of three nonne, instead of lounging on the beach.

So, I’ll be focusing on a specific slice of Liguria for this installment of “Go There Instead.” Because these are my real stomping grounds, the part of Italy I visit most and know best, I’m going to split my Liguria recommendations into a few different posts.

Come to Liguria with Me

Before we dive in: reservations just opened for our spring 2027 Liguria retreat, April 25–May 1, 2027. This is our most popular retreat and an experience very close to our hearts. If this post makes you want to come see it for yourself, we'd love to have you. Download the brochure below for details and pricing, and reach out if you’re interested in joining.

Searching For Liguria 2027

3.62MB ∙ PDF file

Download

Download

Now, onto my list. I have nothing against Portofino per sé, it’s a beautiful, glamorous town, but I nurture an aversion to the kind of over-tourism that kills the authenticity of a place. Unfortunately, many spots in Liguria, including Portofino, are victims of exactly that. Here are a few spots near Genoa that have preserved their soul, places that I personally love and return to year after year.

Camogli

Pictured above, Camogli is the site of my most popular food tour, and my favorite place to bring guests in the region. The town (pronounced ca-MOW-lyi) has it all: rich maritime history, a gorgeous bay, a jaw-dropping church and a great street food scene. I won’t go as far as saying it’s completely off the tourist radar. It is particularly popular with Italians in July and August, but it has been able to preserve its soul in a way that other nearby destinations have not been able to.

Camogli’s colorful buildings host stunning examples of trompe l’oeil, a centuries-old tradition of painting three-dimensional architectural details such as windows, shutters, columns, and decorations onto the flat facades. Some of these fake windows are so well made that they’re difficult to spot.

A small, picturesque port is still a working fishing hub and a stop on the ferry line to San Fruttuoso, Portofino, and other coastal destinations.

For the more adventurous, Camogli is also the starting point for some of the most spectacular hiking trails in the region, including the trail to San Fruttuoso (I wrote about my experience on that hike here).

What to try

Focaccia and Torte: One of my favorite focaccerias in the entire region sits a stone’s throw from the pebbled beach of Camogli. With this kind of real estate, you don’t even need to try very hard to be successful, but Focacceria Revello has a generations-long commitment to quality and craft that has never wavered. It’s a tiny shop, takeaway only, and very popular with locals and tourists alike. So go early or be prepared to wait in line. All their focaccias and pizzas are divine, but don’t overlook their torte, savory vegetable pies sitting on a shelf behind the counter. You can order these whole or by the slice.

Pesto and Pansoti: Every time I come home from a food tour in Camogli, my kids instantly ask “did you bring the pesto???” They are hoping I passed by Pasta Fresca Fiorella, another family-owned-and-operated business with unwavering commitment to quality. You can buy their sauces and fresh pasta to prepare at home, or they’ll make you a takeout container to enjoy on the beach. Besides the pesto, their hand-shaped pansoti with walnut sauce are to die for.

Camogliesi al rum: For dessert, head back to Revello and pick up some of their signature sweets made from a choux pastry shell filled with a rum-laden custard and coated with dark chocolate.

Recco

Recco is neither postcard perfect nor particularly pretty, thanks to World War Two bombs which flattened 90% of the town’s original buildings. But you’re not going for the architecture. You are going for the food. Recco is the birthplace of one of the best things you’ll ever eat: Focaccia di Recco col Formaggio (Focaccia from Recco with Cheese). Quite different from the leavened, Genovese style focaccia you may be familiar with, Focaccia di Recco col Formaggio consists of two flaky, golden, impossibly-thin layers of dough encasing an oozing, tangy, melted cheese filling. It is unforgettable, addictive, and seemingly impossible to replicate outside of this micro-region.

What to try

Focaccia di Recco col Formaggio, of course. If you have time to sit down for a proper meal, go to Manuelina or Da Ö Vittorio. Otherwise, if you’re packing a picnic for the beach, stop by the bakery Panificio Moltedo and order it to go, along with some plain focaccia and pizza.

Gelato: After your focaccia, stop by Gelateria Da Vitto on your way to the beach. This is real, fresh, artisanal gelato made with fresh ingredients and careful preparation methods. You’re welcome.

Sestri Levante

Situated roughly midway between Portofino and Cinque Terre on the Gulf of Tigullio, Sestri Levante gets plenty of tourist traffic in the summer time, but nowhere near the crowds you’ll find in those hotspots. It is popular with Italians and Europeans, but lesser known amongst Americans. You’ll find sandy, pristine beaches, historic grand hotels, a great restaurant scene, Romanesque-style churches, and the picturesque Baia del Silenzio (Bay of Silence).

It’s no surprise Sestri Levante was a popular destination during the Grand Tour in the 19th century, attracting famous guests such as writer Hans Christian Andersen and composer Richard Wagner.

Today, it’s home to several high-profile international events like the Riviera Film Festival, dedicated to filmmakers under 35 years old, which all contribute to Sestri Levante’s vibrant atmosphere. The town is busy enough to feel lively in the summertime, but not uncomfortably crowded.

What to try

Bagnun: This humble dish that once sustained Ligurian fishermen on the boats of Sestri Levante quickly became a classic. Made with onion, tomato and fresh anchovies, it is simple to prepare but, when the ingredients are fresh, it’s full of flavor and deeply satisfying. If you happen to be in town the third weekend of July, you can enjoy the Sagra del Bagnun (Bagnun Festival). Along the waterfront, local volunteers in striped shirts and traditional blue fishermen’s caps ladle out generous bowls of freshly made bagnun to visitors.

Fine Dining: Sestri Levante’s vibrant restaurant scene means there are several choices for more experimental and elevated establishments as well. Try Le Cantine, Impronte d’Acqua, and Rezzano Cucina e Vino if you’re looking for something a bit more refined.

Focaccia and Farinata: Lucky you. My baking guru, Ezio Rocchi, whom I interviewed for my book, and who and taught me most of what I know about the focaccia, opened a focacceria in Sestri Levante. While he handed off management, he still consults and stops by for regular quality control checks, so you’re in for a treat at Panificio Spiga d’Oro. Be sure to also try their farinata di ceci, a gluten-free chickpea flour flatbread common all over Liguria. See photo below of Ezio, the focaccia master.

Hope you to see you in Liguria next spring!

I know, I talk a lot about the market. I wrote a guide to navigating the Italian market, a market mushroom guide, and entire articles dedicated to seasonal produce like artichokes or asparagus. This isn’t a random obsession. I love the markets because they are full of vegetables. And I love vegetables.

In Italy, I discovered the joys of cooking with the seasons and with produce that is at its peak. A lot of people assume that pasta and pizza are the building blocks of Italian cuisine, but they’re merely the backdrop. The pasta is the canvas; the vegetables are the paint.

Since Italy’s global food image was built on pasta, pizza, prosciutto and cheese, people often assume Italians aren’t eating their veggies. This reputation isn’t helped by the fact that Italian home cooking and restaurant cooking are further apart than in other food cultures. Restaurant menus are meat and carb heavy, which means travelers who eat out for every meal are often left asking “Where are the vegetables?”

I’ll tell you: they are inside homes, at the markets, in nonna’s kitchen. In restaurants, they live in the “contorni” section of the menu, which means they are ordered separately, not a built-in part of the meal. Because they rotate with the seasons, specific vegetables might not be printed on the menu at all, and the waiter will only mention them if you ask.

Spring in the Italian Kitchen

Next Monday, I’ll be hosting a live chat with Giulia Scarpaleggia, Tuscan-born food writer and cooking teacher, author of a beautiful new cookbook, Vegetables the Italian Way. We’ll be talking about springtime in the Italian kitchen, what’s in season, and what we’re cooking right now. Save the link and come hang out with us on Monday!

Meanwhile, you can check out Giulia’s Substack, Letters from Tuscany, and I’ll leave you with a quote from her new cookbook, Vegetables the Italian Way.

Seasonal vegetables are the backbone of everyday cooking, paired instinctively with pantry staples like extra-virgin olive oil, aged cheeses, legumes, and grains. Italian home cooking is less about following recipes to the letter and more about cooking with what’s available: what’s in season, what looks good at the market, or what’s ripe in the garden.

That’s where the magic happens.

– Giulia Scarpaleggia

That’s what I already do with my retreats and tours, but I also want to give you all a taste here in this newsletter. So, I’m starting this series, “Go Here Instead,” where I point you to the insider cities, towns and regions that might otherwise fly under your radar.

I’ve already shared my list of Milan favorites (here, in case you missed it), so today I’m focusing on three more fabulous Northern Italian cities that are worth the quick train ride from Milan.

I hope you’ll join me.

Bergamo

Not only can Bergamo proudly claim to be the birthplace of stracciatella gelato, home to several Michelin-starred restaurants, and nine of its own DOP cheeses, but it also boasts a medieval city center surrounded by 15th century Venetian walls, Renaissance architecture and breathtaking hilltop views. It’s like meeting someone really beautiful and stylish who is also super smart and hilarious and sings really well and knows how to tap dance. Annoying. Except you can’t be mad at Bergamo because she’s also so nice and not stuck up at all.

What to try:

Cheeses: Famously situated amongst the “Cheese Valleys,” Bergamo’s dairy game is strong. Go in October for the cheese festival Progetto Forme or try one of their DOPs any time (Bitto, Grana Padano, Formai de Mut, Provolone Valpadana, Quartirolo Lombardo, Salva Cremasco, Strachítunt, Taleggio and Gorgonzola).

Polenta: I love a warm, comforting dish of polenta, and nowhere does it better than Bergamo. Made from yellow or white cornmeal cooked long and slow with water until dense and creamy, it makes the perfect base for the region’s many cheeses, also great with veggies, sausage and stews. Polenta taragna, made with a mix of cornmeal and buckwheat flours, is a favorite of mine.

Casoncelli Bergamaschi: the undisputed star of Bergamo’s cuisine is this half-moon shaped raviolo, stuffed with meat, amaretti, raisins and pear, served with melted butter and sage. A must-try.

Stracciatella gelato: this iconic gelato flavor, cream with shards of dark chocolate, was invented in 1961 at La Marianna by Enrico Panattoni. You can go try the original stracciatella at the source, as La Marianna is still open and serving their famous gelato.

An unforgettable meal: If it’s in your budget, I highly recommend a meal at the legendary three-Michelin starred Da Vittorio in Brusaporto (in the outskirts of Bergamo).

Wines: Try the local Valcalepio DOC (red and white) and Moscato di Scanzo DOCG (a classic meditation wine). If you’re in the mood for bubbles, go with a Franciacorta DOCG.

Mantova

Read more