Despite the current weather in England having transformed most of the population into amateur meteorologists, that summer feeling of counting down the “sleeps” until one goes on holiday never looses its charm or excitement, be you 5 or 55! Whilst am aware that many of my friends consider my job is a constant holiday (true, I do spend a large amount of time tasting wine in beautiful vineyards, but it is work!), my own holiday is fast approaching (just two sleeps to go!).

The annual angst of which books earn a privileged place in my luggage (old school real pages - no kindle entertained) . True - left to my own choices, I’d pack the most capsule of capsule estival wardrobes, and use rest of the space for a multitude of books! Regretfully a dress or two more than just my own beloved flouncy blue & white (great for breeze wafting!) is required. So a self imposed six books limit, makes it sheer agony to choose between light frothy, candyfloss writing, old favourites to be revisited, a novel set in the same location as the holiday, or take a risk on something unknown. Bought the book below - Over the Water - in part thanks to my obsession with islands and in part for the idyllic, evocative cover that draws you in. A collection of essays published by Daunt Books, from 13 different authors. Interpretation of Islands, slightly tenuous in some cases, but loved the two essays about Duck Billed Platypus and the island of Elba. Sadly its not made the holiday short list as was too tempted and devoured in a couple of sittings already! Oh well back to the long list……

Summery (non) cooking required, but these Graffiti aubergines in our local Petersfield market lured me into turning on the oven. Plump, smooth violaceous skins, perfect for a vegetable stack; - thickly sliced, dipped into EVOO & balsamic on both sides. Roast at 180 for 10 mins each side, top with sliced IOW cherry toms (used green & yellow for contrast), back in for 5 more mins, top with torn up mozzarella, back in again for a couple of mins to melt. Layer up with more mozzarella and fresh basil leaves - simple but really rather pretty & delicious!

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Opened a trio of Pinot Noirs over the last few days - each stunning in diverse styles & rendition of this precocious grape variety.

Granville Basalt from the Dundee Hills of the Willamette Valley in Oregon - seduction in a glass. Black cherries, slight spice but with intense purity of fruit - from volcanic soils. Really v impressive - just 500 cases produced. Brought from Corkage in Guildford.

Ponkler 2020 from Franz Haas in Alto Adige. Single Vineyard, high altitude Pinot Noir. Their own tasting notes say ripe red & black cherries with a hint of star anise and I cannot disagree with that! Also for me, a little more cinnamon spice and cigar box. Brought back from tour in June.

Domaine Faiveley Les Porets Saint Georges Premier Cru 2018 . Drinking well, still firm structure, but lovely smoky element amongst the black fruit. Was perfect with a tagliata. Brought back from our Burgundy tour this year, so sorry no RRP.

Curtains closed, denying the sun’s rays the chance to overheat the house, but also an array of chilled whites to cool down, enjoyed over last week or so.

Zacharias Assyrtiko - textbook, uncomplicated version of this Greek variety. Refreshing citrus, limes & lemons. Great with a courgette & feta salad. From Waitrose £10.40

Albariño La Val from Spain’s Rías Baixas region in Galicia. Yes, all the classic notes of stone fruit, and minerality, but with more complexity than your average wine bar offering of this ubiquitous, trendy variety. Good finish. Usually pair with shellfish, but was very happy alongside a lemon & garlic roasted chicken. RRP Waitrose £18

Bacchus Fumé from New Hall in Essex. First vintage of this appealing twist of this white variety at one of the county’s oldest producers. Tasted in anteprima on a visit to the vineyards back in March, and my tasting notes read - a Bacchus for those who don’t usually like Bacchus. From old vines (40 yrs), small part barrel fermented then aged in oak for a couple of months - which has smoothed out the tannins often left unbalanced in this variety. Lovely aperitivo - ideal with smoked almonds. Direct from New Hall - RRP £23

Riesling from one of Germany’s most respected producers in the Rheingau, Robert Weil. But bottled for Waitrose as part of their No 1 range, from grapes sourced from the Rheinhessen region. Nowhere near as complex as his wines from own vines across the river, but nonetheless an easy, slightly aromatic wine with citrus & greengage notes. Went well with a warm salad of roasted squash & blue cheese. RRP £12.50

The Heretics Chardonnay Deluxe Seven. I reviewed their excellent The Cut Chardonnay over on IG last week (quick summary - go buy some!), but this week opened a bottle of their Deluxe Seven Chardonnay. Made from fruit grown by the fab Speakman brothers at Missing Gate Vineyard in Essex and just over half goes through malolactic, which keeps an engaging freshness to this wine, bright zingy citrus notes - well balanced. RRP £35 direct from the Heretics website

Much as I love the complexity of the trio of Pinots above, some days the barometer calls for something much more simple & preferably chilled. This Recchia Bardolino, red wine from Lake Garda, is an uncomplicated, super simple quaffer. Pop in fridge for 20 mins before serving. Nice red fruits - ideal hammock wine. RRP £10.50 but down to just over £7 with their 25% off discount.

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Know I mentioned this last week on Instagram but its so flipping good, that on the theme of slightly chilled reds for the summer - have no fear in mentioning this English vinous gem again! Anarchy in the South Downs indeed! Never mind the Gamay from the brilliant Sugrue South Downs. Their Pinot Meunier grapes from Kent were so super ripe in 2025, that they made a still red wine with the fruit (whole bunch fermented). Added to that a splash of Gamay grapes from their Alpaca Block in the South Downs. Result? Well I served it slightly chilled, and it was GLORIOUS!! Crunch of cranberries & redcurrant, LOTS of mouth-watering juicy red fruits, with touch of spice right at the end. Only 3000 bottles produced, so get your paws on some soon! Know I'll be placing another order as that bottle disappeared rather nicely! Enjoyed with a relaxed supper at home of lamb & mint burgers, topped with homemade tzatziki (heavy on the garlic) & griddled halloumi.

My utter joy at discovering this Pickle Juice on sale in Waitrose (sorry, that word seems to crop up a lot this week. Not paid by them (I wish!) but our local branch is 2 minutes walk from my front door - so also operates as our extended fridge!). Ignoring the dark mutterings of “susceptible, hipster, marketing team’s dream audience” from my cynical OH, dashed home and poured a small glass - and wow - it’s perfect! Infused for 12 weeks with cucumbers & spices on a farm somewhere in Suffolk - I will be happily drinking that as a shot, in other drinks (very excited to learn they have a Bloody Mary Bar for hire!) but so far have also tried in Vodka Martini, which made it just the right side of a slightly smutty Martini. Bliss!

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Meanwhile, busy working on our 2027 wine tours. If you’d like to hear more about our 2027 tours to Andalucia, Sussex & Essex, Roero in Monferrato (Piemonte), Oltrepò Pavese & Gavi, Foraging in Slovenia, Bordeaux, the Aeolian Islands, Alto Adige - please do get in touch! (Still a few places on our New Year tour to Turin in December 2026)

All photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey - www.lovewinefood.com

No paid content.

Photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey

www.lovewinefood.com

This post is public so feel so share it with any wine & loving food friends, which will help more people to find my work - and if you can hit the heart below - that’s so kind - Grazie Mille & Vielen Dank!

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The stereotypical opinion of the English seen by foreign friends includes our obsession for talking about the weather. Though usually a (fairly) good natured moan about the rain / the dark mornings / the mizzle grey days is usually the view. But the last few weeks, scarcely a conversation has begun without “how are you?” “Too Hot!” and all that follows on (not sleeping / random Heath Robinson inspired ways to keep cool et alia)

One of my ways of coping with the excessive heat (confess am a wuss, whose preferred temperature is somewhere about 15 - 20 degrees), is reading books describing winter, preferably snowy, scenarios. The imagery so transports one, that I can feel my core temperature being tricked into imaging being in Narnia.

Otherwise, looking through photos of cooler times has a similar effect. Which led me to a pictorial meander through some photos taken earlier this year, at a time when the OH was still grumbling about 6am waking in the dark and a walk around the Lake in the snow required serious walking boots.

Often am asked - or indeed a frequent self interrogation - Why do I take so many photos? In part because despite being an avid journaler for much of my younger days, diaries are no longer kept. So photos have become a visual memory bank, to help recall days, people, events, places, sensations, tastes……

Whilst perusing the gallery, realised that August is beating on the door, so seven months of this year have flown by rather too quickly. Tis said by those wiser than yours truly that time goes quicker as one gets older. Am not entirely sure that is true but it certainly feels like it at times. Caught up in work and ghastly life admin (hate that phrase but it conveys the dreary time wasting that it is), and not making enough time to stop and stare in the words of William Henry Davies’ poem.

Flicking through photos underlines & reminds of the gentle transition from season to season, that happens without us even noticing, as it gently insinuates itself into each day as February slopes into March, with the arrival of wild garlic covering the woodland floor with a carpet of aroma, and Six Nations Rugby to consume our weekends. As March trips into April, eagerly awaiting the first Jersey Royals and long pointless discussions on which horse to place a life changing £1 bet on the National. April bounces with energy into May, seeking recipes to showcase brown crab, a tentative return to the pub garden of an evening after a stroll thru the bluebell wood. May saunters into June, planning Solstice celebrations and revelling in English Strawberries (oh the aroma!) & asparagus season.

So something a little different from my usual Substack articles - a purely visual snapshot of my month this year so far - both work and play……

January

February

March

April

May

June

What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows.
No time to see, when woods we pass,
Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass.
No time to see, in broad daylight,
Streams full of stars, like skies at night.
No time to turn at Beauty's glance,
And watch her feet, how they can dance.
No time to wait till her mouth can
Enrich that smile her eyes began.
A poor life this if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.

(William Henry Davies)

All photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey January - June 2026

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Extending for a few days after our recent Alto Adige tour, to take in some Opera in the Roman amphitheatre in Verona, combined with tastings at a trio of fabulous wine estates.

The Veneto is a paradoxical wine region; home to some incredible world class wines, including Amarone - yet also home to gallons of indifferent jug wine, made to a price point for supermarkets and the hundreds of trattorias on the shores of Lake Garda!

Villa della Torre, owned by the inspiring Marilisa Allegrini, is an exquisite Villa, from the 16th Century, inspired by the Roman design of domus antiqua. From the private Chapel, through the central Courtyard, out to the fish pond and down to the grotto overlooking an immaculate lawn, it was the perfect location for our first visit in the Veneto. Even more so, to be welcomed by a glass of their white from Marilisa’s Tuscan estate in Bolgheri; monovarietal Vermentino, perfectly chilled but allowing the saline finish to shine.

Over lunch in the renaissance dining room, their Veneto wines were paired - from the Valpolicella Classico Monte Lencisa 25 - a simple, uncomplicated red, but ideal for the hot weather, served slightly chilled. Much less complex than the wines that followed, but none the worst for that - great for a wine on a Tuesday evening , when you don’t need to be challenged with too many questions from your wine glass - one of my favourites. Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2022 with more depth and tannin, but still bright notes of red fruits. The Amarone was obviously star of the show for almost everyone - but also a surprise to many. Marilisa and her winemaking team of Tobia Cenzato & Andrea Lonardi MW, have focused on a modern style of this iconic wine, which whilst delicious, can sometimes be almost too much for pairing with food. Cue their Amarone 2021, which whilst still showed all the textbook aromas as expected from an Amarone, also has an incredible freshness, and elegance, great balance of acidity, avoiding heavy over extraction. Suspect this newer style may well divide the Amarone Crowd, but it certainly had a great reception on tour. As they don’t yet make a Recioto, for dessert, it was back off to Tuscany for their seductive Passito wine made from Petit Manseng, glorious notes of dried apricots.

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Into Verona for a couple of nights, staying in the centre of this picturesque city, which is so eminently walkable. Verona still bears the marks of Roman times including the impressive Porta Borsari, a Roman gate with its 12 arches. One of the most dominant features of Piazza Bra is the famous Roman Arena. A fascinating building with its impressive second outer wall of which only a small part remains, whilst the rest is almost unchanged with the tunnels underneath where animals used to be kept for Roman Gladiator fights. In Piazza Signori stands a statue to honour Dante Aligheri, flanked by a frescoed loggia. It was so relaxing to indulge in a gelato (mulberry & peach as you ask) whilst strolling down to visit the Castelvecchio, a Scaligeri family Castle who ruled the city in the Middle Ages. Today, from its defensive location on the River Adige, it houses sculptures, art and a museum of ancient armoury.

Each summer (this year for the 103rd version) , the Arena Opera Festival is held in the Roman Amphitheatre, starting after late in the evening, with the orchestra warming up, whilst opera lovers take their seats in the open air theatre as the stars appear in the night sky. A wonderful experience, even for those who are not ardent opera lovers. Nabucco & La Traviata were on the programme during our stay.

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Soave is one of those wines that elicits (much like the other famous wine from the Veneto, its red cousin as it were, Valpolicella) either a deep groan of despair or delighted yip of glee from wine lovers. The former thanks to some fairly bland, neutral examples that litter the wine lists of lesser trattorias across the Veneto. The latter’s glee & delight however, is thanks to producers like the Pieropan family, whose white wines are simply world class.

Although they have been making wines since 1880, their new cellars opened in 2022, and are breathtakingly impressive (and that’s from someone who visits in excess of 120 wine cellars a year for her job!). Built back into the hill (all 10,000 sq metres of it) , so only the façade is visible, made from local materials sympathetic to the environment, and the roof planted with a vineyard of PiWi hybrid vines. The monochrome lines of uplit concrete tanks stand in an echoing reverence that leads into quite beautiful barrel rooms. But not just architect led style, the cellars have been very clearly and accurately designed to make wine, with that rare commodity in a cellar - space.

The family’s two most famous Cru’s Calvarino and La Rocca, have done more to raise the profile of Soave than any other wine - earning them the respect of wine journalists and devoted following from wine lovers the world over. La Rocca is on clay limestone, whilst Calvarino is grown on basalt rich volcanic soils. One of the great beliefs of the family, is the inherent age-ability of these white wines, so it was fabulous to taste Calvarino in 2024, 2016 & 2015 vintages - each one different, but on the youngest vintage with floral notes, wet stone with sage notes as it opens up, leading into the ‘15 with a delightful layered texture, underlying iodine note and incredible mineral finish. Also a treat to taste the Calvarino 5, a limited edition wine created as a blend of five Calvarino vintages (2008-2009-2010-2011-2012), which was aged on lees for over ten years before release to celebrate the opening of the new cellars.

La Rocca 2024, lots of notes of pineapple & mango, underpinned by warmth of ginger. In the 2015 vintage, instant hit of Pistachio on the nose, almondy marzipan, ending with dried peach - full & voluptuous wine.

A truly incredible tasting.

Feeling slightly overwhelmed by the complexity yet still wonderful life & freshness in those older vintages, time to head from the crenelated town of Soave to Monteforte d’Alpone for our next tasting at Pra.

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The best way to describe Graziano Pra’s attitude to wine making (and life in general) is a quote from himself - “I only guide the wine, I don’t improve what natures offers but, rather, lead it in the right direction towards an elegant, precious wine”

Describing himself as a vine grower, he bottled his first Soave in 1983, and is admired by many as one of the leading producers of Soave, making wines with true personality & character, reflecting their sense of place. Also a founding member of Gli Svitati, a band of five, slightly rebellious yet brilliant winemakers, who are convinced that Screw Caps (Stelvins) are without doubt the best closure for their wines - even for those being aged (there is a very good explanation on their website for the reasoning)

Tasting their wines in their welcoming dining room, as their in house cook prepared Risotto for us, yet further underlined the sophistication, and elegance that Soave can achieve.

Otto Soave Classico 2025, (named after their beloved & much missed Collie dog), their youngest vines, lovely citrus notes with almons. Staforte Soave Classico 2024, monovarietal Garganega, showed beautiful pure linear acidity, an a quivering nerviness in the glass. Lovely sapidity, with white peach - divine.

Montegrande 2023 - their Soave Classico Cru - and the first Soave to make me want to find out more about the region when I first tasted it more than three decades ago.. A blend of Garganega (which is picked super ripe stage) combined with the fresh tartness of Trebbiano - wonderful structure & texture , a wine that will happy ages many years yet. Truly stunning wine.

Colle Sant’Antonio- another Soave from volcanic soil, mono varietal of Garganega with enticing notes of vanilla, baked peaches & custard. Graziano bought land in the Valpolicella region in 2001, so we also tasted his La Morandina Amarone. Made from traditional grape varieties of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, with only a small amount of Oseleta, but which gives a freshness and spice to the wine. Very appealing style balancing strength with elegance.

To finish a convivial lunch, their glorious Passito Bianco della Fontane, from Garganega vineyards between 30 - 70 years old. Alluring notes of honeyed apricots, lovely balance of acidity, that invites a second glass, ideal with some sbrisolona (a delicious friable almond cake)

Last day in Verona, the idea was to time to explore this beautiful city, meander along the pink hued marble pavements, looking for the occasional ammonite deep in the marble. But the weather was doing a good imitation of Singapore on a very hot day, so the solution was simple - lunch!

Osteria Ponte Pietra, named after the ancient Roman stone bridge, originally built in 100BC, which is just next to the restaurant on the banks of the Adige River in Verona. Owned by the ebullient Gianni Pascucci, the restaurant’s eclectic décor tempts you in - there are a few tables on the tiny balcony overlooking the river, but air con that day a better option, so a table in their charming vaulted dining room - the walls lined with wine bottles! Given Gianni’s pedigree in the Veronese restaurant scene, its no surprise that their wine list is incredible in its depth and choice.

So for a Sunday lunch in Verona (host of different choices adorning the table including irresistible anchovy toast, cannelloni of aubergine, duck roasted with peaches & black tea…. )

Ca del Bosco Zero Dosage - fabulous sparkling from Franciacorta, sherbet like explosion.

Vie di Romans Chardonnay ‘23 - from the Gallo family in the Friuli region, pure & elegant, fresh but with slight buttery finish.

Vorberg Riserva ‘21 - from Cantina Terlano in Alto Adige. Exceptional expression of Pinot Bianco.

Casal Vegri Valpolicella Classico Superiore ‘22 - from the brilliant Alessandro & Nicola at Ca La Bionda. Single Vineyard, of such incredible complexity for a Valpol, lovely spice & floral roses on the nose. (went amazingly with the duck!)

Ben Rye - Passito di Panetelleria. Apricot jam & marmalade in a glass.

Next time you are in Verona, make sure you pre-book a table at the Osteria Ponte Pietra - and have fun with the wine list!

A delightful few days in Verona - sharing spectacular Soave, awesome Amarone and vibrant Valpolicellas.

Photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey on tour www.lovewinefood.com

Alto Adige. Südtirol. South Tyrol. However you like to call it, truly one of the most stunningly beautiful wine regions of the world.

The majestic mountains, the UNESCO World heritage listed Dolomites, was the destination for my most recent wine tour. One of my absolute favourite places to wine tour.

Amazing Scenery - tick. World Class wines - tick. Diversity of Grape varieties - tick. Incredible food - tick. what’s not to like!

But as a wine region still relatively under the radar amongst many wine lovers in England, so it’s always a delight to help people discover this picturesque corner of North East Italy. Land in Verona and head north, along the side of the Adige river, the route that leads to the Brenner tunnel, the Vallagarina valley lined with small fortresses or defensive castles from the days of battle between the Austrian Empire and the powerful Venetian republic, such as the medieval Castello di Avio below.

But before arriving to Alto Adige, we called in en route to Cantina Rotari in Trentino for a glass or two of their bottle fermented Flavio Sparkling Trento DOC.

Bustling Bolzano, regional capital of South Tyrol and our base for the weeks wine tour, with the wonderfully eclectic feel of a place that looks Austrian, with most locals speaking German as their first language, yet is in Italy. The region was ceded to Italy at 1919. Today, everything is listed in two languages - Italian & German on road signs, village names and menus! There is also another official local language - Ladin but mostly spoken in the Val Gardena & Val Badia.

The estate of Franz Haas is one of the most revered producers of Pinot Noir, with high altitude, high density plantings of this fickle grape variety. Wonderful to be joined by for a private wine dinner by Franz Haas Jnr (the first born son for seven generations has been called Franz, so word Jnr used purely to differentiate from his father who sadly died way too young four years ago). Against the pretty backdrop of the rose garden, we tasted their emblematic white blend, Manna, named after Franz’s charismatic mother Luisa (Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurtz, Kerner and others) , through to the aromatic & intriguing Petit Manseng. But of course it was the Pinot Nero’s that seduced & enchanting, showing the Ponkler and Schweizer in tandem, both exquisite expressions of this capricious grape variety. The Schweizer, from high-elevation vineyards, was ripe cherries, pepper & hint of leather. The Pònkler is a single-vineyard cool climate wine, all bright red cranberries but also darker fruits - think loganberry, with touch of star anise. Fabulous wines with great personality.

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With an enviable view across their vines to Lake Caldaro, that all important small body of water on the Wein Strasse / Strada del Vino, Manincor produces some of the region’s most polished wines. Although the estate dates back more than 400 years, the family started bottling their own wine in 1996, and since 2006 produce all their grapes following biodynamic principles. As we heard from our erudite host, Countess Sophie Goëss-Enzenberg, their focus on revitalising the soils, and approach to sustainability was vital for the wines. Echoing the modern artwork on the cellars outer walls - No Ants = No Plants! A stroll through their cellars, impressive as a “cellar with lungs” which maintains a constant temperature & humidity through natural methods. Pausing only to admire the beauty & craftmanship of a few Stockinger wooden vats (think the Ferrari of barrel making!), alongside several barriques made with oak grown on Manincor’s own property.

La Contessa 2024 - Over half of the blend to Pinot Bianco with some Chardonnay, and smidge of Sauvignon Blanc - good minerality from the quartz in the vineyards, rich & round yet attractive long finish. Sophie 2024 - Chardonnay (from their highest vineyards), with a touch of Viognier & Sauv Blanc - ripe apricots, with wet stone (sorry for the pretentious description but it really did smell like that!) Delicious! Mason di Mason 2022 - Mason, a sub region known locally as “Paradise for Pinot Noir” so this higher vineyard, complete with breeze is ideal for Pinot Noir. Only made in best years, truly stunning - violets, loganberries, incredible purity and elegance. Must buy. Castel Campan 2023 - Cabernet Franc leaps from the glass, lots of green pepper & tomato leaf on the nose. Just 13% Merlot adds brambly richness. Le Petit 2023 - Sweet wine from Petit Manseng grapes, from a challenging 2023 vintage - the grapes harvested end of Jan to first two weeks of Feb. Explosion of exotic fruit, passionfruit & mango.

The passion and belief in this property, and its wines, radiated from Countess Sophie. I wish them all well with the next stage of the company’s future as their son Kassian takes over later this year.

Nestled away in a corner of the small village of Tramin (famed for being the origins of Gewürztraminer) is Tenuta J Hofstatter. Owned by the Foradori Hofstätter family for five generations, they own vineyards in Alto Adige, in neighbouring Trentino (for their sparkling wines) and in Germany’s Mosel (fabulous racy Riesling which made it into the tasting as a ringer!).

Tasting of 10 wines awaited, including the incredibly aromatic Gewuzrtaminer Vigna Castel Rechtenthal ‘22 - like being enveloped by clouds of Turkish delight, yet balanced acidity too - fabulous wine. Intriguing to taste the Pinot Nero Vigna S Urbano in two vintages - 2021 and 2014. The younger showing amarena cherries, the 2014 with that extra time in bottle, all black cherries, violets, black pepper, forest floor. Both very elegant.

Alto Adige is one of Italy’s smallest wine regions, with under 1% of the country’s vineyards, yet a focus on quality with 96% of wine produced being DOC level and over 20 different grape varieties. Since 2024, there are now also 86 UGA’s, (Additional Geographical Units) to identify on the label a more specific sub region or vineyard site. Despite it’s northern location and proximity to the mountains, over 300 hours of sunshine pa, means that Bolzano regularly features on the meteo as hotter in the summer than parts of Sicily.

Vineyard ownership is quite small in the region, with the average size being just one hectare, which means that the cooperative system is very important in Alto Adige. Today there are 12 co-ops, who control the production of 74% of Alto Adige’s output, from approximately 3200 grape growing families.

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Girlan is one such cooperative, founded in 1923, and grown from just 23 families to today, over 200 members. Phillip explained how their cooperative system worked, placing the focus on quality not quantity, before an incredible line up of a tasting, nine wines across their top three lines - Vigneti, Flora and Solisti. Featuring some of the most recognisable, sometime quirky labels of the region (the chap on the Trattman PN, could be straight out of the pages of Ronald Serle, but is in fact designed by South Tyrolean artist, Paul Flora). Pinot Bianco Flora 23, had fabulous texture, rounded & almost creamy but with great freshness. Gewürztraminer Flora, exquisite example of this aromatic variety, not florally over done but fresh notes of ginger with appealing undernotes of bay leaf. Its restraint makes it a great food pairing wine (a saffron risotto would be ideal).

One local Alpine red variety - of course with two names to confuse - Vernatsch or Schiava (also known as Trollinger in Germany!) has been planted in the region since the late middle ages and enjoyed a heyday as a light quaffable uncomplicated red in the 1970’s, accounting for almost 70% of the vineyards in the region. It slid into obscurity as other varieties were favoured (sadly in favour of Pinot Grigio), until just 6% remained. But this is changing, as modern wine tastes now appreciate the pure elegance, with naturally lower ABV. Girlan’s Geschleiser Alte Reben Vernatsch, come from vines aged between 90 - 110 years old, so a naturally lower yield (the DOC permits 14k per ha, they gather in just 6k per ha). Wild raspberries, sour cherries, slight earthiness & bitter chocolate - an absolute enchanting wine - 2023 vintage, already delicious, but will age well.

Ending the tasting on a trio of Pinot Noirs; Trattman PN Riserva 23 - v silky tannins, textbook pure Alto Adige Pinot and always a welcome sight on a restaurant wine list. Curlan PN Riserva 22, from mostly the 777 clone was meatier, but amazing balance of richness yet pure fruit - stunning. Vigna Ganger PN from same vintage, from their monopole of just 1.2 hectares, and only approx. 2000 bottles a year produced - tart tayberries, black cherries, incredibly long finish. It was hard to tear oneself away from those last two Pinot’s!

Boarding the Cable car in the heart of Bolzano, that carries you above the vineyards of St. Magdalener appellation and upwards with incredible views of the Rosengarten, above some of the 25,000 year old earth pyramids, to the Renon Plateau. At about 1000 metres higher than the city, a wonderful place to enjoy the cooler air of Soprabolzano. Lunch called at the welcoming family run Park Hotel Holzner. Relaxing on their shaded terrace, with views across the verdant gardens to the jagged peaks of the mountains. surrounded by the ever changing swirling clouds. The region is quite rightly famous for its alpine cheeses, so lunch was a selection of ten types including the Wachal aged with juniper & elderberries and Alpalagrein, aged in the pomace of Lagrein grapes. Naturally accompanied by the irresistible crunchy flatbread - Schüttelbrot

I selected both whites and reds to try with each style of cheese (am a great believer that whites match most cheese better than heavy reds) Kerner Valle Isarco Artisos, greengages, peach and touch of nutmeg. Gewurztraminer Lafoa, with stunning Klimt style label (fyi - its not Klimt!) - intense roses & lychee - went well with the blue cheeses. Both location and weather meant a St. Magdalener was required, almost all Vernatsch with a splash of Lagrein, a red chilled just enough for the warm day - the Anthios Classico Ansitz Waldegris was just ideal - red cherries, black olives and garrigue. Blauburgunder Mazzon Riserva 2019 Gottardi, made only in top vintages, was alluring - bags of morello cherries, wild strawberries and herbal finish. Roen Vendange Tardiva from Cantina Tramin, a late harvest Gewürztraminer, lots of honey with dried apricots, but enough citrus lift & acidity to avoid being cloying.

The cooler breeze tempted a few people to relax on the terrace - with a bottle of Vorberg 2013 from Terlano (more on that later)

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From Soprabolzano, take the historical narrow gauge train that chugs steadily through alpine meadows with gabled chalets, and views of the omnipresent, looming Dolomites. Cue feeling my inner Maria Von Trapp, or at least the Julie Andrews film version of her, tripping through said wild flower pastures, carolling like a skylark!

Park Hotel Laurin, our base for the tour, has a pretty garden restaurant, and manned by a super professional yet friendly FOH team (especially the knowledgeable Somm, Mimi). Just to mention two dishes of their tempting menu which were outstanding. Canederli al nero di seppie - a modern take on the traditional Tyrolean bread dumpling, which though the traditional versions are delicious, not necessarily the ideal food when the temperature gauge is hitting 37 degrees. Reworked in a lighter style with black squid ink, chopped squid stuffing, and even squid “ham”, served on saffron sauce. The other stylishly presented - a hand cut steak tartare served on roasted marrow bone. Both proving that style and substance can be achieved on the same plate!

Early morning walks around Bolzano to avoid the later heat, with its porticoed streets, leading the eye into the ubiquitous mountains, a glorious crimson at dawn. A charming town, Austro-Italian but architecturally leaning more to Austria , with the elegant main square of Piazza Walter, the beautiful tiled roof of the Cathedral, the Lüftlmalerei— frescoed buildings, and Erker bay windows.

Cantina Terlano, since my first encounter with their Pinot Bianco over a quarter of a century ago, has enthralled me with their incredible, pure mineral led white wines. So a tasting of nine of these is always a highlight for any wine lover. Even their classic Pinot Bianco tradition is a brilliant example (and great price quality ratio) for this signature varietal wine. Vorberg Pinot Bianco 23 showing incredible balance of rich texture with nervy yet restrained acidity. Heavenly saline finish, with so much minerality. (Confession time - Vorberg is always in my top ten list favourite white wines !)

Terlano are unusual in their belief of age worthiness of white wines from the region - but they back this up with an incontrovertible truth in the shape of their Rarities. Special limited releases of white wines left to age on the lees in stainless steel pressurised tanks for at least (at least!) ten years. When finally bottled they retain a zing of true freshness, and go on to age so well in the bottle.

So a real privilege to taste the Rarity Pinot Bianco Riserva 2013 vintage. My tasting note simply said - Incredible freshness. Spectacular! It was also an fascinating to compare the Vorberg 2013 much enjoyed the day before, which was much more tertiary aromas of matured wine - compared with the Rarity of same vintage, which had so much more life & energy in the glass.

Showing together the Terlaner Cuvee and Nova Domus. The former 60 % PB, 30% Chardy, 10% Sauv Blanc - lots of peach notes but signature minerality. Nova Domus Riserva the same varieties but 70% / 25% / 5% - rich exotic fruits, melon and a touch of Rutaceae citrus.

Also tasted their Muller Thurgau - very appealing example of how this variety can express itself when handles with care, lovely note of white pepper on finish. The Sauvignon Blanc Quartz is a iconic wine in the region, and easy to see why - a SB for even those how don’t usually like this aromatic variety, avoiding any aggressive greenness. Incredible depth & complexity - pink grapefruit & flintiness

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Off to the spa town of Merano, much beloved by Sissi (otherwise known as the Empress Elizabeth of Austria), on the banks of the Passer River. Kellerie Meran have a tasting room in the heart of the this stylish & floral bedecked town - and was good to taste their Sparkling wines Riserva 36 and Riserva 72 - the numbers referring to how many months the wine had stayed in contact with the lees. Surprising complexity on even the 36 months. But the 72 Extra Brut Riserva Sparkling kept revealing more and more layers of flavour in the glass . Also impressed by their still Pinot Bianco with green flecks glistening amongst the pale gold - elegant but rich.

Although my tours are billed as wine tours - food plays an equally important part, and one of my favourite parts of planning, is the choosing of the menus for all the meals on tour. Always an incredible dining experience at Zur Kasierkron in the heart of Bolzano, in the historic Palazzo Pock, where various Austrian Emperors would stay when visiting the town (hence the name - The Imperial Crown). Today under the aegis of Executive Chef Filippo Sinisgalli, who created a truly ambrosial menu - backed up by a wonderful youthful FOH team, who cemented what was a truly memorable evening.

Crispy Egg with Parmesan & spinach.

Risotto with lemon & smoked cheese

Venison with bitter herbs

Tarte Tatin

Sounds so simple doesn’t it? But each dish was executed to utter and absolute perfection, showcasing the flavour of each ingredient in deceptive simplicity,

For the wines, I’d chosen a delightful selection of wines to round up our few days in Alto Adige from other favourite producers in the region, that we simply could not fit in to visit. And apologies no tasting notes as the conversation was so absorbing that notes were forgotten as it should be at a convivial dinner! But suffice to say that all were delicious, especially the Linticlarus Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder)

Riesling Hochklofter 2024.

Cuvee Bianco Amistar Peter Solva 2018.

Weisburgunder Sirmian Nal Magreid 2023.

Blauburgunder Linticlarus Riserva 2021 Tiefenbrunner.

Comtess St Valentin Gewurtraminer

Absolutely wonderful wines, spectacular scenery, fabulous food - what a tour!

If this has inspired you to visit Alto Adige, do join me on next years Love Wine Food Tour 29th November - 3rd December 2027 - drop me a note for details (that will also include the atmospheric Christmas market in Bressanone).

Thank you for reading - really & truly appreciated. If you’d like to subscribe for free, I’d love to have you along on my food & wine adventures.

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Photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey on tour www.lovewinefood.com

This post is public so feel so share it with any wine & loving food friends, which will help more people to find my work - and if you can hit the heart below - that’s so kind - Grazie Mille & Vielen Dank!

That iconic 1956 film, High Society, starring the super elegant Grace Kelly, alongside Bing Crosby and a relatively youthful Frank Sinatra - am not sure how many times have watched it - the endless appeal of the jaunty notes of “Who wants to be a Millionaire” through to the swooningly romantic “True Love”. Reworked by Rachel Kavanaugh into a musical showing at the Barbican in London, the ideal choice for a mother & daughter evening! Complete with a full orchestra, as well as some of the key songs from the film, this production features also various well known numbers from Cole Porter’s songbook.

Great feel-good high octane performances from a super talented ensemble alongside a well selected cast featuring Helen George as Tracy Samantha Lord, the ever brilliant, mischievous Felicity Kendal, with Freddie Fox taking Sinatra’s role of journalist Mike Connor.

Julian Ovenden, more known to me as one of Lady Mary’s suitors in Downton Abbey, showcases his fabulous Tenor voice in the role of Dexter Haven. Nigel Lindsay was a glorious surprise playing the irrepressible Uncle Willi , with the show stopping rendition of “Now you have Jazz”. Carly Mercedes Dyer, outstanding in her portrayal of photographer Liz Imrie, amazing vocals.

Ends its run at the Barbican this weekend on 11th July, but then going on tour around the UK.

Bookending the theatre were two lunches - one at an old favourite, one first time (but not last time) visit.

L’Escargot has been delighting diners since 1896, and since 1927 at its current Greek street address. Known as London’s oldest French restaurant, the menu classic but tempting. Poached sea trout with beurre blanc & chives was heaven with Menetou Salon from Isabelle & Pierre Clement - bright white flowers lifting the rich buttery sauce, with its zing & minerality. Apologies that photo does not do justice to the incredible chocolate souffle! Always love luncheon at this Soho stalwart.

Sartoria, so named due to its location on London’s Savile Row. Unsure of how with my love of all things Italian, have never lunched there till last week. Designed by Terence Conran in 1998, this Mayfair restaurant has remained faithful to classic northern Italian style. Timorasso from the vineyards of the Colli Tortonesi, from Vietti was a heavenly white wine from Piemonte, showcasing the complexity yet freshness of this indigenous grape variety. Tuna tartare topped with pickled tropea onions, and a perfectly cooked Vitello Milanese served on the bone. Add into this perfect service and beautiful glassware as befits the wine - fabulous, relaxed lunch.

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Rugby: Confess I was rather reserving judgement on the new Nations Championship that launched this weekend. But thanks to some awesome matches, found almost 14 hours of rugby on Saturday whizzing by! Perhaps the key was sticking to Iced Tea until the last two matches - given there was enough endorphins bouncing around purely down to the incredible first match between France and New Zealand.

Weekend Wines: Am busy organising a couple of Sherry tours for next year and so a glass of Manzanilla served as good inspiration - sadly no La Ina in the wine rack, but this half bottle from Williams & Hubert did the job - crisp & enlivening!

My love of Encruzado is no secret, or perhaps to be more specific, the Encruzado from amazing producer Quinta dos Roques is the version that makes my heart sing. Bright notes of lemon, tangerines and backed up by a touch of vanilla from small part in oak. £23.50 from the Wine Society.

Cabidos Cuvee Gaston Phoebus Sec 2019 was a revelation in the glass. Have been enjoying Petit Manseng recently from unexpected regions (Alto Adige & Chianti Rufina to name but two) - but this version from Jurancon in the French Pyrenees was a burnished golden hue, nose of citrus, as well as roasted pineapple - amazing texture and a slight hint of ginger on the finish. Bravo to winemaker , Méo Sakorn-Sériès, the only Thai winemaker in France. Unsure where brought this one from but 2018 vintage is avail at £21 from Hay Wines.

Pouilly Fuissé Tête de Cuvée from Chateau Fuissé made from the oldest vines of the lovely Vincent Family who own this welcoming estate. Nashi pears on the nose, with good mineral led palate, a chardonnay with structured and personality. Stunning wine at this price compared to some of the white Burgundies from further north! Brought this bottle back from recent Burgundy tour, but avail in the UK at Tanners for £39.

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Clos Floridene Blanc 2022 was a lovely expression of a balanced blend between Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon and a splash of aromatic Muscadelle - very polished white Bordeaux, was perfect with a summer salad of prosciutto, roasted aubergines, cous cous & mint. Brought back from Bordeaux tour last month.

Être Affamé, one of those wines picked up for a picnic at some point. Very easy quaffing Cinsault from the South of France, complete with cute label straight out of French department of central casting. Sharpness of cranberry notes, low on tannins, was ideal slightly chilled for an uncomplicated red for the rugby. £9.50 from the Co-Op

Franz Haas Schweizer Pinot Nero 2022 - ripe, deep black cherries along with pepper, slight touch of liquorice, silky smooth & elegant - a Pinot Noir to savour. Truly delicious. Brought back from Sud Tyrol tour - but imported into the UK by Liberty Wines.

Book review: Mentioned on insta of the great excitement, when my long awaited copy of “Death By Pinot” arrived! Written by awesome wordsmith, the aptly named Olly Smith. Knowing the ease with which wine descriptions trip off the tongue of the erudite author, and then add in a murder mystery - this was always going to be a good read. I won’t spoil the story, but if you like cosy crime, set in the bucolic South Downs of Sussex, with a healthy glassful of wine descriptions, some great characters plus regenerative vineyards, possible natural burial sites not to mention the famous firework night event of Lewes- then this is your summer read! £20 from all good book shops.

A different post than recent wine tour write ups - but hope you’ve enjoyed. Do let me know if you try any of the wines, and your thoughts!

Thank you for reading - really & truly appreciated. If you’d like to subscribe for free, I’d love to have you along on my food & wine adventures.

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This post is public so feel so share it with any wine & loving food friends, which will help more people to find my work - and if you can hit the heart below - that’s so kind - Grazie mille!

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Bordeaux is one wine region that pops up on my wine tour calendar with some frequency, being such a classic wine region. However, one of the (many) delightful things about the area, is it’s many different faces. First tour there this year , back in March (see Bordeaux Château Life post) , was very much visiting the great names of the region, the wines that pepper the higher echelons of the wine list. But there is a different side of Bordeaux to be discovered - smaller estates, family owned with lovely wines, but made in appellations that tend to fly under the radar of many people’s idea of Bordeaux wine.

Last week’s tour was just one such voyage of discovery for clients of a British Wine Merchant, taking in Entre Deux Mers, Moulis en Medoc and Castillon.

The city of Bordeaux, with buildings of glorious honied golden limestone is a perfect place to stay for visiting both Left and Right Bank, not to mention enjoying lazy afternoons exploring the narrow lanes of the Chartrons District, home to a myriad of independent shops or the picturesque squares lined with bars to tempt you for a reviving glass of Bordeaux Blanc or maybe the super fashionable Lillet.

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Entre deux Mers, nestled between the Garonne and the Dordogne Rivers, is very pretty, with a diverse countryside of forests, small hills and villages. Grape varieties include for the whites; Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon and Muscadelle. On the reds, its Merlot, Cabernet France, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

Chateau de Thieuley, started in 1950 and today run by the third generation, Marie & Sylvie Courselle, two sisters who have very clear ideas about how the estate should be managed, combined with a great passion for communicating their love of the region, and the property inherited from their father, Francis Courselle. They own 80 hectares spread over three properties - Château Thieuley, Clos Sainte Anne and Château Saint Genes. Standing in the shade of an oak tree, overlooking the rolling verdant vineyards, hearing about the ancient history of the area, when monks planted vines, through to today and the Courselle’s dedication to keeping everything in balance - both from the vines, to the cellars and into the bottle. Their respectful environmental ways have visibly increased the biodiversity of the property.

Bordeaux Blanc, traditionally a wine blended of at least Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon (if not Muscadelle and Sauv Gris as well) but sadly too often today, producers now slavishly follow fashion to make mono varietal Sauvignon Blanc wines. To my mind, a grave mistake as it becomes just another Sauv Blanc from anywhere in the world. Thankfully not so at Thieuley, whose blends such as the classic Blanc 2024, a blend of almost half Semillon, slightly less Sauv Blanc and topped up with a bit of Sauv Gris which gives notes of tangerine, white peaches and a delicious saline finish. Their white top Cuvee, named after Francis Courselle, equally entrancing, over half of which some from 50 year old plus vines, with judicious use of oak, giving only structure and lovely texture. The one thing that surprised many on the tour last week, was tasting an older vintage, 2015, how well these BDX Blancs can develop with bottle age.

Bordeaux Clairet, a intense deep pink (and by deep, I mean almost the shade of freshly crushed cranberries!) was a heavenly discovery for summer - mostly Merlot with some Cab Sauv, lively fresh notes of red fruits (raspberries), low tannins, a great wine for serving slightly chilled - possibly with spicy merguez sausages at a BBQ.

Tasted their Bordeaux rouges including the complex, Francis Courselle Cuvée in 2014 vintage (apologies for lack of tasting notes, but was distracted by Tonka, super friendly family dog!) , with homemade lunch including the irresistible paté from Maman’s secret recipe with a glass of their Crémant, and seasonal local white asparagus, which paired so well with the older white vintage, really a food friendly Cuvée.

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The Left Bank conjures up thoughts of imposing turreted Chateaux, but the small appellation of Moulis en Medoc, a wilder side of the Medoc, is located slightly inland from the Gironde Estuary, giving a different micro climate. The incredibly hospitable and always welcoming Barton family (suspect its the Irish genes!) , who own Leoville Barton & Langloa Barton in St Julien, bought a third property in 2011 - Chateau Mauvesin Barton (which dates back to 1457). Hosted by owner, the always refreshingly honest Lilian Barton, with her charming daughter Melanie who is winemaker at Mauvesin, plus of course the adorable canine duo welcoming committee. A pretty property with resident peacocks, Mauvesin principally makes reds from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc - though Melanie is experimenting with some white grapes (Chardonnay & Chenin - first vintage in 2025 was so small they made just 150 bottles, and had to foot tread the grapes as not enough volume for a press machine!)

Tasting the 2025 vintages as barrel samples from each of their three properties was totally fascinating. The Mauvesin ‘25, lots of graphite on the nose, the Langloa ‘25, such deep hues of opaque purple with incredible freshness of fruit and ending with the Leoville 25 , black cherries & violets on the nose, again that intense purity of fruit, and incredible structure. Such a shame with such great quality that thanks to the tiny 2025 vintage, the Barton family could only make very small quantities! A leisurely lunch of slow cooked lamb, was the perfect foil for some older vintages, just to show how patience repays!

Bordeaux is home to a vast array of restaurants, beyond the classic French and those of the South West region, during my early morning meanders, noticed everything from Lebanese, Japanese, Corsican, Spanish, Italian - even a Monsieur Le Kebabier! But after lots of tannins, palate was craving refreshing white wines, so supper at the fish focused Le Petit Commerce. Langoustines, sweet prawns, whelks, oysters from nearby bay of Arcachon - with a bottle of Graves from Chateau Bouscaut - heaven!

Last day of this short tour dawned, sadly not bright & sunny, but mattered not, as a fabulous tasting awaited in Castillon on the Right Bank - starting with actually a welcome glass of Champagne to warm us up! Chateau la Clairere is owned by Tony Laithwaite, and the village of St Magne de Castillon is where his love affair with wine began some 50 plus years ago. Listening to him, whilst looking out over the land, so close to the more fabled vines of neighbouring St Emilion, brought home the recent stories in the press about the amount of vineyards being uprooted or simply abandoned. Many of their neighbours who have vines on less good sites than they, are facing the economic truth of the grave situation facing Bordeaux wine in general.

Tasting with their head winemaker, Jean Marc Sauboua - a master class in Castillon wines followed: A trio of white La Clariere to start - ‘25 with super expressive nose, with remarkable texture - ‘24 muted fruit on the nose, but delightful herbal palate - ‘22 slight almond notes followed by rich creamy mouthfeel. Segueing into the reds La Clariere - ‘25 unfinished sample - blended from amphora & barrel, appealing floral notes of geranium - ‘15 from Magnum very much tertiary aromas, smells of Autumn leaves - ‘05, opposing but complimentary flavours, roasted apricots , leading into dark soy sauce, meaty complexity - 1995, wow what a treat, still notably fresh in the glass, lovely liquorice undertones.

Sustenance appeared in the shape of delicious canapes, but Monsieur Laithwaite opened something incredibly special before lunch - the Troisieme Feuilles 1984 - again impressed by the longevity and life still in the wine.

A small appellation, but showing just what Castillon as a region can create as they step out of the shadow of the more famous St Emilion.

A short but balanced wine tour as an introduction to the more accessible, family run, smaller wine estates of appellations that deserve more attention - not least because of the more reasonable price - quality ratio than the more famous names - but also because of the incredible warm welcomes.

Thank you for reading - really & truly appreciated. If you’d like to subscribe for free, I’d love to have you along on my food & wine adventures.

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Photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey on tour www.lovewinefood.com

A swift turn around after our Essex wine tour, jump on a plane to my favourite city in the world - Turin! Some glorious views of the Alps on the way over.

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Torino - a glorious city to explore on foot, through the arcaded wide boulevards, to admire the Baroque architecture and just enjoy this understated but fascinating city. But a love letter to Turin will be published here in a couple of months, so for now just a couple of images.

One of the most delightful things to do whilst strolling around the historical centre, with its 18kms of covered porticos, is to take a pause at one of the Caffe Storici in Turin, though it was not the weather for indulging in a Bicerin, as the temperature was around mid 20’s, more suitable for a chilled glass of Vermouth, which was invented in the city. My absolute favourite, Caffè Torino, which opened in 1903, was the ideal place for a welcome dinner for a private group of wine loving clients from London. The food as always traditional but delicious, including a flan coated with fonduta made of Castelmagno, that king of Piemontese cheeses. A quartet of wines as an intro to the region, including a Timorasso from La Spinetta, Dolcetto from Vietti, Barbaresco from Boffa and ending with a Passito di Caluso.

Leaving the elegant piazzas of Turin behind, we headed towards the Langhe, but called in for our first visit en-route in the Monferrato region of Piemonte. The Monferrato zone roughly speaking covers the provinces of Asti & Alessandria, and is home amongst others to Barbera, Brachetto, Ruché and Grignolino wines.

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The estate of Marchesi Alfieri dates from 1696, and a stroll through the “English” garden with its history was a wonderful introduction for this picturesque property owned today by three sisters Emanuela, Antonella and Giovanna San Martino di San Germano. Kicking off with an enlivening glass of their Blanc de Noir, before a cooking class, making the traditional agnolotti del plin pasta. Certainly very amusing to watch several clients making & rolling the pasta, but am quite glad that the Chef was not relying on some of those for our lunch, some were impressively silky, others slightly more rustic! Pasta education over, onto enjoying the wines as they should be - paired with lunch. One of the lesser known red grape varieties of the region, Grignolino is having a bit of a renaissance with some producers, as here with their Sansoero 2024. Lighter in style than most reds of the region, with violets on the nose, this is a wine that suits lunchtimes! The name comes from a dialect word grignola, which means numerous seeds, as found in this grape variety. Costa Qualia, from their vineyards known to be home to lots of quails, their pure Nebbiolo, is instantly appealing in the glass, dangerously drinkable as one person at my table observed. Pinot Noirs have been planted in the region since the 19th Century, and Alfieri’s makes a version, San Germano, which although may be thought as an interloper of a variety, has been planted here since the middle of the 19th century. La Tota is perhaps their signature wine, and sings in the glass with energy, even though it is their highest production. A mono varietal Barbera d’Asti, named for the aunt of the current owners, known affectionally as La Tota. Fabulous expression of Barbera, dark fruits, such as mature plums, but with that exciting line of acidity running through, that makes it such a food friendly wine. If La Tota is their signature, then Carlo Afieri is their flagship wine - a Barbera d’Asti Superiore, only made in great years, we tasted the 2017. Instant hit of graphite on the nose, leading to black cherries. Despite it heading towards the end of its first decade, still incredibly young and needs more time quietly sleeping in the cellar.

Crossing over from Monferrato into the Langhe, next tasting was at Ceretto, founded in 1930’s and were amongst the first in the region to focus on single vineyard wines. Above the traditional barrel cellar, is their impressive viewing platform - from inside looking over the vines, but seen from underneath, the design is more apparent - the cross section of a grape. Great to compare the Barbaresco 2022 from two single vineyards - Bernadot & Gallina - the former showing the ripeness & approachability of the hot vintage, the latter showed nice floral notes, and good mouthfeel.

Three Barolo’s served together, all 2021 vintage, so intriguing to be able to work out the vineyard influence on each wine. The Brunate with its finish of amaretti biscuits, compared to what had to date been one of my favourite vineyard Crus of Barolo, Bussia - which as expected showed in incredibly well, true gastronomic Barolo style, lots of blue & dark fruit, mineral on the finish. Last up was the Prapo, which was star of the show, rich dark chocolate, black cherries, voluptuous - heavenly.

Onto our base for the next few nights, in the hills above Alba, the lovely Villa Relais D’Amelia, with their incredibly welcoming and always helpful staff! Dinner that evening courtesy of their Chef Guido Peradotto, the creative style of the canapes boded well for the menu later. Nettle Risotto topped with Maccagno cheese was sublime, as was the Panna Cotta with amarene cherries. Wine wise, some reviving bubbles after the afternoon’s tannins, an Alta Langa from Deltetto and an Arneis from the Roero side of the Tanaro River, which was bags of white flowers & citrus. With the lamb cooked in hay, step up Barolo Massimo Rattalino “Trentaquattro 34” 2014 - with that extra age to develop in bottle, lovely savoury notes and forest floor. Ending with a pair of wines from the Brachetto grape, which tends to be a marmite wine and divides the room, most preferring the Passito style from Forteto della Luja

Bright eyed & bushy tailed, off to Massolino Vigna Rionda in the exquisitely pretty hilltop village of Serralunga d’Alba for our morning tasting, hosted by the erudite & charming Franco Massolino. Making wine since 1896, the third & fourth generation of the family became famous for their elegant, austere style of Barolo, and today they also produce Barbaresco. But we started the tasting with two of their Barbera d’Albas - the estate 2025 and the Gisep 2022, both lovely but the Gisep (named in honour of their Grandfather Giuseppe and only made in best vintages) was velvety, opulent - a Barbera with serious attitude & aspirations (one of my tasting notes that say BUY). Langhe Nebbiolo 2023 from various vineyards across the Langhe was textbook, appealing, younger drinking but still with classic flavour profile of Nebbiolo. Onto the two Barbaresco; the estate 2022, enticing, gentle, hints of liquorice and served next to the Albesani, an MGA vineyard in Neive, showing incredible complexity and length, (where was a plate of tajarin pasta with white truffles when needed?) 2022 vintage so still young, tannic grip there, but ripe tannins - I’d like to revisit in about 11 years time.

Onto the Barolo’s; Classic from 2021 vintage, vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba and Castiglione Falletto, attractive floral notes on the nose, underpinned with some spice. Barolo Margherita 2021, an MGA (more on those later) in Serralunga - a traditional style of Barolo, showing the structured depth and power of wines from the Serralunga vines, but with hint of minerality on the finish. Ending with the Barolo Parussi 2020 as great comparison, as grapes come from Castiglione Falletto, stylistically more elegant than the powerhouse of the Serralunga wines - but both equally incredible.

Staying within the Barolo area, off to one of the small hamlets, home to the welcoming Vajra family at GD Vajra for a stunning tasting hosted by the genuine, kind and knowledgeable Francesca Vajra. Their white from Luigi Baudana, aptly called Dragon, a blend from local variety of Nascetta, plus Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc (confess is one of my repeat fridge whites at home) .Their Dolcetta d’Alba shows how vibrant this undervalued grape variety can be when treated with care (#dignityfordolectto). Freisa, a red grape variety, closely related to Nebbiolo, but with its own distinctive character. Historically made lightly sparkling, often sweet wines, and today still can be made is a range of styles, but here at Vajra, a serious red with the stunning label and querying word play name - Kye - a wine with deep black fruit, taut line of acidity with hint of spice. Delightful! Langhe Nebbiolo always a great value alternative to Barolo, but here made with the same love as is lavished on its big brother, resulting in a wine with freshness with violets, but underpinned by tang of cranberries and ripe tannins. Ending with three Barolos; Coste di Rose, from the steep slope above Monforte D’Alba, one of the most intriguing of the MGAs in Barolo, and the 2022 we tasted was floral, with cherries, incredibly elegant with a undercurrent of minerality bringing it all together on the finish. Tasting from the same vintage, Bricco delle Viole, a high vineyard that benefits from both the first and last sunshine of the day. Classic nose of violet, with wild strawberries, with appealing slightly savoury sapid finish. To round off the tasting, the Barolo Ravera 2014 , an MGA in Novello, showing what quality is possible in a challenging vintage, thanks to the natural amphitheatre of this single vineyard. Dark fruit on the nose, plums, leading into a classically austere style towards the finish.

(MGA? Well that’s a whole article in itself, or indeed two heavy tombs, brilliantly written by Alessandro Masnaghetti, but in a nutshell, it stands for Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (additional geographical mentions), which work as Cru designations - there are 181 in Barolo and 66 in Barbaresco. )

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Lunch called at one of the Vajra family’s (and mine!) favourite restaurants, Osteria Veglio perched on the hillside close to la Morra. Always welcoming, a brilliantly hardworking young team as FOH deliver fabulous food created by the enthusiastic kitchen team of local produce, simple ingredients but elevated such as the moreish Cipolla ripiena di salsiccia e servita con crema di piselli (or onions stuffed with sausage & served with pea cream). Although the homemade gelato di fiordilatte had some of our table declaring their would simply go have a wander around the vineyard outside, and come back for dinner! A well curated wine list always makes for good reading, so started with Ratti’s Derthona, and elegant interpretation of the Timorasso grape grown in the Colli Tortonesi (although the Ratti cellar was just 2 mins walk from our lunch stop!). Barbara, one of those grape varieties that suit lunchtime so well, although this 2023 Barbera d’Alba Vigna Martina from stellar producer Elio Grasso was not shy & retiring, but had power and depth, wonderful notes of blackberries & hint of liquorice. Occasionally on these tours, we go slightly off-piste, if there is a wine so utterly irresistible on the list - and that often means I’ve seen Ben Rye from Donnafugata lurking amongst the dessert wines. Made on the volcanic island of Pantelleria (off the coast of Sicily, but actually closer to the African coast). A permanent fixture in my top ten dessert wines of the world, a passito made from Zibbibo grapes, alluring apricot on the nose, a freshness in the glass, thanks to the addition of the dried grapes to fresh must, means no overt cloying sensation as with some passito wines - and extended finish with hints of garrigue. Basically, heaven in a glass.

An afternoon in Alba, chance to stock up on foodie essentials such as Cuneesi (intense rum flavoured chocolate truffles), as well as tajarin pasta & fonduta cheese

It would be impossible to overstate the importance of the Slow Food Association and the huge beneficial effect it has had in the world of food. A protest in 1986 against the frenzy of fast food, led to its creation in Piemonte in 1989 against the “universal folly of fast life”, to protect local traditional foods as well as following the ethos of sustainable food production (their philosophy is : Good (tasty/quality), Clean (sustainable /environmentally friendly), and Fair (accessible prices and fair pay for producers). So, a relaxed dinner at their Osteria dell’Arco in Alba is always an essential element whenever I am in the region!

Continuing our exploration of Timorasso - small producer Cascina Penna Currado, yellow plums and freshness which balanced well with the zing of seasonal asparagus with basil. Followed by Dolcetto ‘25 from the great Domenico Clerico estate, a heavenly match with its bright youthfulness for the tajarin pasta made from 40 eggs yolks! Guinea Fowl & Nebbiolo is a perfect duo - hence Carlo Giacosa Asili Barbaresco 2020, which was still incredibly youthful, with black cherries and endless finish. Fizzy, Frothy & Fun - Moscato D’Asti, at just 5.5% ABV is the ideal way to end such a meal - especially this floral, fresh version from Fratelli Grimaldi - and paired with an irresistible dessert simply named - Pura Nocciola (Pure Hazelnut)!

Ciabot Berton, owned by the Oberto family, who planted their first vines in 1876, and today are run by the fifth generation. What a warm welcome from owners Marco & Federica, awaited at their small cellars on a crisp yet sunny morning, with wide views across the Langhe. Starting with the white, Favorita Alissa ‘25 , all white flowers and backed up by tropical fruits, more characterful than many the Favorita grape variety shows. Le Macaline Rosato, from Nebbiolo, was a real surprise to this far from fan of Rosé - busting with strawberries & redcurrants - would be ideal with some fennel salami. Barbera d’Alba Vigna Bricco S Biago from vines 60 years old plus, sweet ripe fruit with nice acidity. Langhe Nebbiolo Tre Utin from their younger vines, a touch of violets but generally just incredible drinkable was the tasting note! To finish the tasting, four Barolo’s, showcasing the differences in style. Barolo La Morra 22, leading into the classic nose of roses, but with a touch of liquorice. Barolo 1961 2021, so named for the year Marco’s father Luigi was born, from three vineyards around La Morra, classic on the nose, touch of balsamic on the finish. Barolo Rochettevino 2019, from the highest vineyards on the La Morra hill - the word austere is often used to describe Barolo, which sounds a little odd to some, but it was that beautiful, restrained character that gently unfurled in the glass to reveal its many layers. From the same vintage Barolo Roggeri, dark, deep fruit, fine tannins and underpinned by hint of nutmeg. Fantastic welcome and great wines.

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Not far to our next tasting at Cordero di Montezemolo, in a hamlet of La Morra, home to that iconic Lebanese Cedar tree, that dominates the skyline around this part of the Langhe. Canine welcome committee to the fore, who joined us at the viewpoint overlooking their own Monfalletto vines, but also overlooking the village of Castiglione Falletto

This warm, friendly family have 50 hectares of vineyards across several sub-regions of the Langhe, from which they produce a lovely range of wines that we enjoyed with a delicious lunch above the cellars. Langhe Arneis ‘25, pears on the nose & hint of almonds on finish. Barbera d’Alba ‘24, seductively easy to enjoy, with gentle tannins. Nebbiolo Langhe ‘24, from their younger vines around Alba & Cherasco, approachable but showing all the textbook varietal characters. Barolo Monfalleto ‘22 from all of their vineyards in La Morra, a delicious example of a modern style of Barolo that can be enjoyed younger. To finish their Barolo Riserva Gorette 2015 from magnum, a lovely ethos behind a delightful wine, only available at the cellars, harking back to the days when life was less frenetic, and good wine was made to be shared with “deserving” people who make the personal effort to meet up and chat!

Grappa. One small word that will have most people, even lovers of all things Italian, throw hands up in defence against what many consider rocket fuel. Think about it - if it is given to you free at the end of a meal in an indifferent trattoria, the odds on it may well taste like something more suited for Artemis. But there is one name in the world of digestivo drinks amongst the Cognoscenti that is revered - Marolo.

At their Distilleria Santa Teresa near to Alba, which was founded in 1977,we were hosted by the erudite & engaging Lorenzo Marolo, with the incredible story of how the company developed, and a masterclass awaited. As a long-time devotee of proper Grappa, it was so wonderful to see clients perceptions of this much maligned spirit totally changed. Starting with those made from Arneis, then Barolo grapes from the Bussia Cru, through to the warming Five Year Old Moscato as well as the other quinquennium in the range, Grappa di Barolo for Friends. Next up with the 12 year old Barolo Gappa, the flavour profile. Comparing the Barolo Bussia from the 2010 vintage (yes this is as serious as grappa can be, with all the intricacies of flavour & vintage profile). For me personally, the star of the show, was the 14 year old Barolo Grappa, distilled from the excellent 2010 vintage, that is finished for three years in Mizunara Oak. The Marolo family have strong connections to Japan, and this is a celebration of that relationship. Mizunara Oak, also known as Japanese Oak or (Quercus crispula) is a rare indigenous oak, known for its distinctive aromas - and takes over 200 years to mature, barrels of which are used mainly for top end whisky, this small project by Marolo, showed how complex Grappa can be when made with passion. Totally enthralling - an amazing tasting.

The alpine pastures in Piemonte produce exceptional, high-altitude cheeses - the taste of which change throughout the year, depending on the grasses & flowers on which the cows graze. Befitting a region that holds the world’s largest festival celebrating unpasteurised cheeses every two years (its aptly called Cheese and held in the town of Bra if you’re a turophile), a relaxing supper of cheese and wine was called for. Having already enjoyed other cheeses such as Toma, Robiola and Maccagno, a platter of 10 cheeses included Plaisentif (floral and delicate), the rare Bettlematt (made only by eight small dairies), Sarass del Fen (a salted ricotta aged in hay) , aged Raschera (savoury notes), Bra Duro, (a classic from nearby town of Bra), Testun di Capra Ubriaco (semi aged goats cheese aged in red grape pomace), Raflazz (Murrazano style), and my absolute favourite Castelmagno d’Alpeggio (crumbly and intense), plus a couple of blue cheeses that I forgot to note but remembered to eat!!

Naturally there was wine - and as the idea was to taste a wide range of styles, and convince doubters that in general white wine will be a better choice as a match for cheese than many reds.

Gavi Olim Bauda 2023 -light, fine but not enough character for the cheese

Timorasso ‘18 Montiamo la Colombera - showed how Timorasso can age - star wine

Nascetta le Strette Pasinot 2023 - one of my favourite white grapes, this Nascetta had wonderful waxy texture and saline finish

Riesling Ettore Germano “Hérzu” - an outstanding example of how the Riesling grape has found a great home in Piemonte at high altitude. Minerality, some petrol notes and rounded mouth feel.

Chardonnay Pio Cesare 2023 - 8 months in barriques gives structure, was perfect with the Castelmagno

Last day dawned, slightly misty as the adventurous went for an atmospheric early morning run through the hazelnut groves, but mist rolling back to reveal the alps in all their majestic glory as we weaved our way around the beautiful curving hills of the Langhe, with each slope covered in vines, to Produttori del Barbaresco. Hosted by the incredible Aldo Vacca, long-term (over three decades) Managing Director of the Produttori, who sadly but very well deservedly, is retiring. After so many years visiting Barbaresco, there is no one quite like Aldo for explaining in such accessible detail the differences between Barbaresco & Barolo, both historically and today.

The Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958 as a co-operative with two central beliefs. They would only focus on quality not quantity (almost unheard of in those days). They also would only work with one grape variety - Nebbiolo, which to my knowledge is still the only co-operative in the world to work with only one grape variety. Produttori really led the way to showcase how co-operatives can produce world class wine, when the focus is all about quality - and fairness, as we heard about the graded payment system for the just over 50 members, who together farm 120 hectares of Nebbiolo vines.

Three flights of wines showed side by side:

Langhe Nebbiolo 2024 & Barbaresco 2022. Langhe Nebbiolo made from fruit only coming from Barbaresco vineyards (the consortium rules grapes from Barbaresco wine can also be grown in Treiso, Neive & San Rocco Seno d'Elvio). Lovely notes of white pepper. The flagship wine that is made with such care each year, Barbaresco ‘22 (one of my go to wines when faced with a restaurant wine list) from a very dry year, giving red fruits and defined tannins.

Produttori have nine different single Crus for their Riserva Barbaresco, and fascinating to taste Pora and Montefico side by side in two vintages. Stylistically, Pora is known as being more elegant, from a warmer vineyard site closer to the Tanaro River, is generally more approachable when young, with softer tannins. Whilst Montefico is more classically austere in style, with great structure that will age incredibly well.

Barbaresco Riserva Pora 2021 e Riserva Montefico 2021. From the ‘21 vintage, judged by many in the region as a vintage as great as the exceptional 2016 (which in itself in a reason to buy it and stash away!) , even the more gentle Pora was showing substantial structure and breadth. Montefico Riserva 2021 was utterly sublime a near as perfect vintage, rich and opulent in the mouth. Another on my “must buy” list.

Barbaresco Riserva Pora 2020 e Montefico 2020. Pora, plum, cherries and warmth of spice. The Montefico opening in the glass to reveal a muti layered wine that will still age well, notes of mint and tabacco.

The Montefico 2021 was an ideal wine to wish Aldo well in his retirement - he will be much missed, but the Produttori are in good hands for the future with his Deputy, now Managing, Director, the brilliant Luca Cravanzola.

Marchesi di Gresy, or to give them their full name, Tenuta Cisa Asinari del Marchesi di Gresy, have an enviable location on the edge of Barbaresco, in an amphitheatre of vines, and the appellation’s only Monopole - Martinenga. The property has been owned by the family since 1797, and although they own four estates across the Langhe and Monferrato regions, Martinenga is the soul of their company. Welcomed by their fabulous long time winemaker, Jeff Chilcott, who originally hails from NZ, but has been in Piemonte so long, he even speaks Piemontese dialect. Always a pleasure to listen to his amusing views on life. A stroll through their vineyards, which were running riot with colour, flowers and butterflies abounding so one could really see the biodiversity they have created.

Langhe Sauvignon 2025, a white that has an incredible following amongst Italian white wine lovers, was crisp, green but ripe - their UK importer listed a tasting note as preserved lemons, which accurately hit the nail on the head.

Gresy Langhe Chardonnay ‘22, citrus but backed up with complexity thanks to being from two parcels of vines with different terroirs, and structure from oak

Langhe Nebbiolo 24, appealing nose of sour cherries, ethereal mouth feel - a great wine for those Tuesday evenings when you don’t want to open a Barbaresco

Martinenga Barbaresco ‘21 - always a buzz to drink wines looking at the very vineyard where the grapes grow! Redcurrant crunch to start, leading to more balsamic notes.

From the Martinenga monopole, there are further two Cru’s listed within the amphitheatre, from opposite ends - giving rise to two excellent but diverse Barbaresco - Gaiun and Camp Gros. Both from 2020 vintage the Gaiun was opulent, rich & sleek, whilst the Camp Gros (which is close to the Rabaja Cru of Barbaresco) was roses & violets, but with a sapid, almost savoury finish - both excellent in their own diverse styles.

An effervescent glass of La Serra Moscato d’Asti seemed a great way to sign off on a few days exploring the wines of Piemonte with a charming private group of London clients.

Piemonte - famous for Barolo & Barbaresco across the world, and rightly so, but am super pleased that grape varieties such as Pelaverga, Grignolino and Freisa in the reds whilst Timorasso and Nascetta for the whites are having such a revival! Viva la diversita!

As always after a tour to this region, am already missing Italy (Jack Savoretti Miss Italia playing on a loop whilst writing this), but reassuringly know that I will be back in my beloved Piemonte at least four times later this year!

Thank you for reading - really & truly appreciated. If you’d like to subscribe for free, i’d love to have you along with us on my food & wine adventures & journey.

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All photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey on tour. www.lovewinefood.com

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Know that is slightly fashionable amongst some sniffy foodies to bewail the influx of tourists at Borough Market. “Its not as it used to be” they mutter darkly into their Single estate Peruvian Coffee, and true these days, there are a lot of stalls that sell ready to eat food to take away, rather than simply the raw ingredients (tho’ given the amazing scent of the mushroom risotto being cooked by two very enthusiastic chaps - is that always a bad thing?). But I always have a skip in my step, if a visit to London means I can mooch around the temptation that is this historic market at the start of the day, as the stalls are setting up. Just the striking piscine displays, with langoustines, turbot, crabs, and the red & orange hue of salmon cured with beetroot, or the towering wheels of Comté cheese - enough to make my mouth water!

But one stall in particular is always my first port of call, Turnips, aka greengrocers extraordinaire. Starting in Pimlico in 1967, as the Foster Family, and moving to BM in 1990 (when they rebranded as Turnips, named rather strangely after the nickname of Chelsea FC then manager Graham Taylor!), they supply Michelin star and amazing restaurants across the Capital.

The pretty as a picture book candy beetroot, strawberries in every shade, a plethora of mushrooms, custard apples, passion fruit with yellow skins, there is something to draw the eye (and recipe planning) at every turn.

But this post is not so much about Borough Market, but more of a look at what happens when recipes don’t quite turn out how you plan!

Citrus of any type brightens my day, so was tempted by the sheer beauty of the Cedro on the stand, to be brave enough to carry it home on the delights of South West trains - they are not light (image below shows comparison of size with a walnut!) ! - though was well rewarded, as occasionally nicking it with a finger nail to release the incredible fragrance during commuter rush hour!

If you’ve not met this citrus star yet - Cedro, (sometimes known as Citron) is one of the oldest types of citrus dating back to non hybrid times. To some maybe unappealing on first sight, as it has thick bumpy skin, not a fruit prized for its beauty, but rather revered, especially in Sicily for the exquisite candied peel made from said skin.

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Other delights in my Borough Market haul were deliciously & quickly consumed, whilst I researched recipes to make the classic insalata di cedro. Eaten years ago in Taormina, I tried to find out the definitive recipe. Definitely channelling my inner Felicity Cloake, in the style of her brilliant How to Make the Perfect… Column in the Guardian (whoever says research is easy has obviously never tried reading a gazillion different variations on the same dish!), as I read masses of recipes both from English and Italian websites. Some promising the genuine article as cooked by Nonna ( excuse a small rant, as these lovely grandmothers have been hijacked by marketing campaigns the world over, as an unarguable guarantee of authenticity. Some absolutely yes, but many of the Italian grandmothers I know, would absolutely not have been seen spending all day in the kitchen!) - others staying with the Sicilian interpretation, some from Calabria - even one US blogger, who lamented the waste of the peel, so he julienned it and added it raw to the salad (he says controversial - I call it crazy, the skin eaten like that is so bitter).

But a WFH Tuesday lunch seemed good time to try this out. Now why am I bothering you lovely readers with a recipe for something most of us will never try (well until Waitrose decides to follow its stocking of Amalfi lemons with Cedro!) . Its not so much the dish, but more to the point of being honest and sharing when things don’t go right. Too often on Social Media, its a whirl of utter perfection - nothing out of place, all perfect results - but when trying out recipes, I can reassure those of a nervous disposition in the kitchen - that does not always happen!

Firstly skin the cedro (very sharp knife required, no chance with a peeler, I resorted to the fish filleting knife as shaving implement of choice). The part required for the salad, is the thick white pith. Now for all of us who remember painstakingly removing every speck of pith from clementines for 1980’s dinner parties, this was a bit of an anathema. But you’ll see from the photos below, just how thick the pith is. The small amount of pulp in the middle discarded (have kept the peel for now, if am honest with self, know I won’t get around to making candied peel - so thinking of dehydrating it very slowly and converting in a dusting powder to finish fish dishes).

The recipes then diverge; some say mandolin fine, other say chop into chunks. My plan was mandolin (one of favourite pieces of kitchen kit) but I was distracted by something on the radio - and only realised after chopping the pith. See what I mean? Kitchen Life not always perfect!

Painstakingly then re-chopped chunks into tiny pieces (was losing the enthusiasm by now!) add salt, black pepper (lots), chopped anchovy fillets, spring onions, bit of fennel left over from last nights shaved fennel & lentil salad (delicious!) , generous amounts of chopped mint & parsley. Then LOTS of EVOO. Set aside for an hour and stir occasionally (and add more EVOO now and then). In the time that the cedro did some meditation and absorbing the other flavours, thankfully got on with more reassuring kitchen tasks of making chicken stock and freezing Greek yoghurt and honey.

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Result? Served with smoked salmon and prettified with some micro herbs to try to help! Well the spongy texture of the cedro pith make it ideal for soaking up what you throw at it (chilli flakes scattered on the OH’s portion) - but much as I do love a kitchen pootle, the taste factor was not worth the faff. It was nice enough - but with so many great recipes out there and only so many meals……… nice enough is not good enough. Now in all honesty it might be because I fell out of love with the time spent re-chopping it all (of course fault of yours truly for being distracted by Radio 4) - and know that the version I ate in Sicily all those years ago was better, but will mark this one up in the “good to have tried, interesting but don’t bother again” file.

Thankfully, most of my dishes turn out delicious, and this is not up there with the occasional grand kitchen disaster over the years (the exploding octopus is etched forever on my brain), but just wanted to share honestly rather than just polished “look at me” post!

But if I’ve depressed you with this tale of less than perfection , fear not, I’ll still buy Cedro’s - will just keep them for using as a natural spritz of zingy citrus aromatic when need a boost at my desk during a mid afternoon slump. As the Monty Python Crowd sang - “Always look on the bright side of Life”.

Apologies, not usual style of post, but done in the hope of saying even cookbook writers like myself can have a bad day in the kitchen! A small part in fighting the smoke & mirrors of social media.

If you’ve been disappointed by the way a dish turned out (I feel that should be said with the solemnity of a voice over after a particularly challenging episode of Eastenders - sorry!) - or even have a kitchen disaster to tell, I’d love to hear your comments.

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Thank you for reading - really & truly appreciated. If you’d like to subscribe for free, we’d love to have you along with us on our food & wine adventures & journey.

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All photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey. www.lovewinefood.com

Did you know that by tapping the heart icon or sharing this post, you help more people discover my work? Thank you in advance for your support!

Essex: a polarising county. For some it comes to mind when thinking of the quintessentially English countryside painting by John Constable of Wivenhoe Park. For myself, for years, the name conjured up the highly influential wine writer & all round lovely chap, Hugh Johnson, at Saling Hall (wine writer or books on trees - he’s written a plethora on both subjects). Or for many, is it the 1980’s image of glowing orange tango-like fake tan, white stilettoes and dancing around handbags or half of the story of Gavin & Stacey? For sure it is the birthplace of Dames Maggie Smith & Helen Mirren as well of course of the brilliant Jamie Oliver.

To set the scene for foreign readers, Essex is situated in the East of England, bordered by Cambridgeshire and Suffolk to the north, the North Sea to the East, Kent across the Thames Estuary to the South, Greater London to the South-West, and Hertfordshire to the West.

Whichever way of Essex holds sway when this ceremonial county’s name is mentioned - you may wonder, Why Essex for vines? The very simplistic answer - the county is one of the sunniest and driest places in England. Specifically the now renowned Crouch Valley, is an incredible location for grape growing: warm & dry, long days of sunshine which allows for longer hang time for the grapes to ripen on the vine, and clay soils that retain water. Add to this, unlike other Southern Counties in the UK, there is a low risk for frost.

Many a UK wine writer has compared the Crouch Valley to Burgundy, in particular the Côte-d'Or, which may have seemed over ambitious, but when Burgundy wine estates have recently started working with Essex wines estates (more on that later), it is not such a patriotic pipedream. But also viticulturalist Duncan McNeill, who works in the Crouch Valley also sees a comparison with Central Otago in NZ.

Still wines are the focus, and indeed Essex leapfrogged up the rankings in 2025 to be the third largest grape growing county in the UK, thanks to some rapid expansion of new plantings, mostly Chardonnay & Pinot Noir.

One thing to note, is that Essex is not just home to some great wine making, but it is a county of grape growers, farmers if you like - many of whom sell their fruit onto winemakers elsewhere in England, who want to take advantage of the fabulously ripe Essex fruit.

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Most of my tours starts with the instructions to clients - Meet you in Venice / Turin / Mendoza / Lyon - a host of glamorous places. This tour was slightly more understated with us meeting at Chelmsford train station (yet with many of the top vineyards only 30 minutes away!)

Many of our Love Wine Food clients have been to many vineyards around the world with us, and for most in the party, their experience of English Wines was mostly that of the fabulous Sparkling wines that garner such attention in the wine press. By dint of my sneaking in some Essex still wines into tastings on other English tours, that was enough encouragement for them to come along and find out just why Essex is the home to premium still wines in England.

The Crouch Valley, on the Dengie Peninsula between the River Blackwater & River Crouch, was the best place to start! Standing at the field gate to welcome us for our first tasting were Graham & Caroline Martin from Martin’s Lane Vineyard. Founded by Graham’s late cousin, Roy Martin, who saw the vinous potential for the region, and persuaded a group of fellow investors to believe in his pioneering vision, buying the land in 2009.

Walking up to the top of the vineyards, accompanied by welcoming canine committee in the shape of Mabel, at 50 metres highest point, really giving an idea of sense of place. Originally the idea was to make Sparkling from the holy trinity of grape varieties, so it seemed entirely appropriate to taste their Blanc de Blancs 2017 , enjoying the glorious views over vines sweeping down the hillside, whilst the odd plane from the WWI Military Aviation museum in nearby Stow Maries buzzed overhead.

Sunny it may have been, but a chill wind, so off to the local pub for a private tasting room to sample the rest of their wines. Much of the fruit is sold to Lyme Bay in Devon, who started working with grape growers in the region in 2016, but Martin’s Lane make a small amount under their own label. Fascinating to taste two whites - same grape variety, same vinification, one labelled as Pinot Grigio, the other as Pinot Gris - which accurately reflected the stylistic difference in the two wines. The pure Chardonnay from an aromatic clone needing no oak. Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs, with fresh notes of redcurrants. Great to taste the PN Precoce from the lovely 2020 vintage, smooth, depth of intensity, yet crackling with fruit such as blueberries & cranberries. A real treat to finish with the PN Founders Vintage 2022, which yielded, in the opinion of their winemaker, John Worontschak some of the finest PN fruit he’s encountered in last 40 years. Certainly a wine that will age well.

Sadly Roy Martin died in 2023, but his passion for this special vineyard, and its capability to produce amazing fruit for still wines, lives on in good hands of Graham and Caroline, whose enthusiasm for both their own wines and also the wider Crouch Valley was inspirational.

A few wines over dinner that evening, to showcase some other English still wines including the Lyme Bay Chardonnay (from Essex fruit) so well with scallops, the excellent Simpsons Rabbit Hole Pinot Noir from the North Downs in Kent (elegance with spicy notes - fabulous with lamb) and the quirky dessert wine from Hattingley Valley, made from Bacchus in the style of an Eiswein.

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There are certain wines that one remembers exactly when you first tasted it - and for me, Danbury Ridge Pinot Noir is high up on that list. My reaction (echoed by many a wine lover since the first vintage 2018 was released in 2021), was simple and utter astonishment - how could an English still Pinot Noir achieve such complexity?? So it was super exciting to visit their vineyard the next morning of our tour. A masterclass from Alex, of viticultural explanation in the vineyards, which were previously Polo fields, the sport of choice of the owners, the Bunker family. Vines were planted in both 2014 and 2019, and fascinating to hear that the presence of smectite rich clay soils, echo those found in Pomerol. A brief cellar tour (geek in me admiring the Coquard press and concrete vats), going in-depth about the pros & cons of frequency of battonage. The winemaking is overseen by charming Northern Ireland ex Jockey, and winemaker extraordinaire, Liam Idzikowski. Although much is made, quite rightly, of the quality of still wines in Essex, tasting their Solstice, Sparkling wine - a revelation. Multi vintage, some of which goes through their Solera system. Incredible complexity, deep gold, smells of just baked buttery flaky pastry and roasted apples, along with a hint of sage & honied apricots - yet with an intense skeleton of acidity to balance - truly spectacular. Onto to the still wines, with their recognisable bottles with eight ridges (representing the lucky number in Hong Kong where the Bunker family previously lived) comparison of the estate Chardonnay 2023 with the Single Vineyard Octagon Block of same vintage. The former was stone fruit, lemon custard with a slight flint edge and hint of smoke. The Octagon, only 3596 bottles produced, from three Chardonnay clones, really reflecting the vineyard. Precise linear acidity quivering with the nerve & grace of a greyhound, wonderful mouth feel - but my tasting notes actually stopped there and simply said buy (so I did - the issue will be resisting to drink them too early, as this is a white that will age exquisitely!) .

Onto the reds - Pinot Noir 2023 compared with the PN 2022 vintage. The 2023 was lots of red fruits on the nose, those enviable silky tannins, with an impression of cooked strawberries and hint of liquorice. The 2022 in comparison, more leaning towards dark fruit, black cherry, or as our host brilliantly described, the embers of a cooling bonfire. Both delightful wines.

Ah, those Burgundians I mentioned earlier? Pierre Duroché from Gevrey Chambertin, was so impressed with the quality of the fruit grown in Essex, that last vintage they made a Pinot Noir in collaboration with Danbury Ridge - cannot wait to try that.

Am super lucky as a job to spend much of the year travelling to vineyards around the world - and I often take a gift for Italian / French / Slovenian winemakers. Usually my default wine is the PN from Danbury Ridge, simply because it shows in the glass that England can produce spectacular still reds from this fickle grape variety. So a real privilege to enjoy these wines in situ at the cellars.

New Hall Wine Estate isone of the Grand Dames of the Essex wine scene, having planted their first vines in 1969. But even more history, as famed for wines from their Purleigh vines enjoyed as a celebration drink by King John at the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215.

First vintage was 1971, the considerable number of 18 bottles were made, by Sheila Greenwood in their kitchen at home! Always looking forward, they progressed from the early Germanic varieties chosen to being the first to plant Pinot Noir in the region in 1973. But the original vines still exists, and lovingly tended despite their ripe old age, gnarly trunks and slightly sagging arms. Met their South African winemaker, Jacques Huysamer, who was busy overseeing bottling on the day of our visit, but found time to chat about their Sparkling wines and his experimenting with the red grape variety, Regent by putting in barrique. Off for a tasting hosted by Paul Laurie, or his other moniker, The Essex Wine Man. Tasted throughout the range, including the Rosé made from PN Precoce, but for me the star of the show was their new white wine - a Bacchus Fumé 2024, from 40 year old vines. A Bacchus for those wine lovers who may have been put off this variety previously having tasted other acidic, uninteresting incarnations: this was delightful with notes of crunchy pears, underpinned by a hint of smoke. We tasted this as a Pre Release sneak preview - so do look out for this limited edition when it’s released at the end of May this year.

After a hard mornings work (!) of wine tasting, lunch called, so off to Maldon, to the Queen Victoria Pub, owned by the ebullient James Burrell-Cook, whose enthusiasm for the wine & food around Maldon is unstoppable! Owner also of the wonderful Maldon Smokehouse, lunch was a feast of local produce including cockles served traditionally with vinegar & white pepper and delicious smoked edibles, from smoked meats, smoked fish (sublime variations on smoked salmon) , smoked nuts even smoked hummus! Naturally, there was a fair sprinkling of local but world renowned Maldon Sea Salt to accentuate the flavours. James had kindly rounded up a range of wines from some other local wine estates, including Pinot Gris and Rieslings to showcase the variety of wines being produced in Essex. But occasionally we go off-piste with our wines on tour, and spying a bottle of late Harvest from the Murray Darling region in Oz, made from the not often seen Taminga grape variety - well we had to try that too!

A post prandial mooch around Maldon, a historical town on the Blackwater Estuary, famous for Sea Salt, with pyramid shape crystals, which has been harvested since 1882 by the Osborne family. Also home to the distinctive Thames Barges, with their red sails, flat bottomed & shallow draft, they moved cargo along the coast in the 19th Century.

Discussions rumble on about the validity & requirements of a PDO system in English wine, but the Crouch valley have taken a very valid & inclusive step by creating the Crouch Valley Vineyard Association (CVVA). As Essex is very much still a region of farmers growing crops (albeit grapes) rather than only wineries (there are only four wineries in the Crouch Valley, plus two contract winemakers). The CVVA works together not only as a representational association, also support & promotional group, and they have registered “Crouch Valley” as a trademark. This clever move means this can be used not only for local Essex producers, but also for growers, and on labels of winemakers using fruit from the region such as the excellent Dermot Sugrue at Sugrue South Downs in Sussex and the aforementioned Lyme Bay in Devon, to heighten the awareness of the Crouch Valley.

A relaxed tasting over dinner at the local pub, with various wines from their members - including the delicious Chardonnay (taut, citrus notes, hint of salinity) made by Charlie Holland at Marbury, which is a sign of the foreign investment appearing on the Essex wine scene, as Marbury is owned by the Jackson Family from California, who planted 28 hectares in 2023 & 2024, so their first vintage was from fruit bought in from other Essex growers. With his wealth of experience from his years as Head Winemaker at Gusbourne in Kent, under Charlie Holland, Marbury will be an estate to watch.

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Our last day started off with a brilliant tasting at Missing Gate Vineyard - which of course instantly led to the question about the name. NB - No Spoiler alert - am not saying why the name- so not to ruin the story for anyone who visits them at a later date! But welcomed by the wry Charlie Speakman, whose blistering honest take on all things in life and humour made for a wonderful, memorable tasting. The three Speakman brothers are all involved in the transition of part of their family's 400 acre arable farm to vineyards. They currently have almost 100 acres under vines, making them the largest grape grower in the county. Pinot Blanc is a variety they are keen to explore more, and plant more of rather than the more often seen Pinot Gris, and a good decision having tasted their delicious 2023 vintage - nashi pears, zesty & bright. The Sauvignon Blanc 23 leaning more towards France than NZ as restrained on the nose, but the palate was lime green with freshness. The quality of their Chardonnay fruit attracted the attention of yet another Burgundian - this time Alex Moreau from Chassagne Montrachet, who made a wine in Essex with Missing Gate fruit last year. We wait to see that with interest - but in the interim, their own Missing Gate Chardonnay 22 - the only release of this mono varietal so far - wonderfully understated, but with appealing fruit, and layers of flavours unfurling in the glass. Salt Weight White 23 a blend of Pinot Blanc & Chardonnay, named after the Roman artifacts found in their vineyards, dating back to the days as a trading post of salt - richer in the mouth thanks to some time in oak. Ending the tasting, with their Pinot Noirs - first up the estate PN 23, which was refreshing red fruits. Followed by their two top level Pinots - Two Horse Land Pinot Noir 2022 and Three Horse 2022. The Speakmans are quite rightly very proud that the Two Horse has been listed at Jeremy Clarkson’s The Farmer’s Dog pub. More serious than the estate version, the Two Horse is dark brooding fruit (if it were a character in a book, it would be Poldark) , and the Three Horse was superb - more complex again, elegant and long finish. The unusual names for these wines dates back to the 1800s, when field level of soil to be tilled was rated as one (easy) to three horse land.

Onto our last visit at Crouch Ridge Estate, owned by Ross & Samantha Lonergan, both fifth generation farmers, whose vines overlook the River Crouch near Althorne. The land has been home to a dairy herd, before into arable and today since 2010 planted with vines They opened a Wine Barn as a venue for sales & a place to enjoy their wines over lunch. Their Sparkling Blanc de Blancs was very appealing, a palate livener of good minerality, prickle of sherbet - would be ideal with local oysters (indeed they used to be a Shack down by the water, selling oysters from the bed in the Althorne Creek). Weaving our way through their range, to finish on the Althorne Red Reserve, blend of PN, PN Précoce & Rondo grapes - an interesting blend, with the rondo giving a depth & bramble spice to the wine. A welcoming place to end our three days in Essex. The blue skies in Essex seem endless and so the view from their wine barn terrace across the vines to the river is absolutely worth the visit!

Saltmarsh land, wide skies that go on forever reflected in shimmering rivers combined with undulating fields dotted with oak trees, beauteous countryside on sides of hedgerow lined country lanes - Essex certainly surprised our clients as a county, and even more so the fabulous wines tasted. As one guest said, who lives in London, just 35 minutes away by train, how come I’ve never been to Essex?

For me the vibrancy of the wines across the board impressed. As much of the grapes grown are sold off to other English Counties, Essex has slightly flown under the radar for many consumers to date. But being the place in the UK with the highest density of vineyards in a small area, this is set to change as wine lovers from outside the county discover the wines. Combined with the focus on the correct clones of vines being planted (aimed to still wine production rather than Sparkling), and with each vintage, a greater understanding of the land & climate, with those longer hang time for the fruit (some growers started picking on 2nd November last year!) - the future of premium still wines lies in Essex. Very exciting times ahead, and shows that perhaps the phrase TOWIE was right all along!

If this has tempted you to explore Essex and you’d like to join our next LWF wine tour to this fascinating county, please just email on cmh@lovewinefood.com

Thank you for reading - really & truly appreciated. If you’d like to subscribe for free, we’d love to have you along with us on our food & wine adventures & journey.

All photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey on tour. www.lovewinefood.com

Blink. That's all I did. Blink. Suddenly that wonderful mercurial month of March has already faded into the category of yesterday and time before that. But it’s been a whirlwind month, so sorry for the Radio Silence! March heralded the start of the Wine Tour season over here at Love Wine Food Ltd, and kicked off in style with a glorious spell of Bordeaux Chateau Life on the Left Bank.

A leisurely, relaxed, unstressed journey from London via Eurostar and TGV to Bordeaux, where cerulean blue skies awaited. The tour started as many of the best holidays do, with Sunday lunch - but in true Bordeaux fashion at the family run Château d’Angludet. Owned by the charming Sichel family since 1961, it is one of the few properties on the Left Bank that are actually still lived in by the owners. A jewel of a property in the Margaux appellation, exquisitely pretty with a small lake, and one single plot of vineyard surrounded by forest. A chilled glass of white from their Entre Deux Mers estate, Chateau Argadens was just the ticket as a welcome on their terrace. Inside the Chef was preparing the pièce de résistance, of lunch - thickly cut entrecote aux sarments, cooked in the open fireplace over old Cabernet Sauvignon vine cuttings! Decanters of various vintages of Angludet circulated - all served blind, to focus our palates! 2010 was apparently the younger brother version echoing the 1961 vintage (the year the family took over Angludet) and for many the star of the day. The 2016 showing great approachability from that lovely year, lots of cassis & coffee, a combination of richness yet elegant but for me the absolute joy was the 2019: soft, smooth, bags of fresh, bright red fruit. Despite working in the wine trade for almost 30 years, I only discovered a couple of years ago how well youngish red Bordeaux can match with a dark chocolate fondant - initially I was sceptical, but these days its a winning combo when am pairing wines and menus on tour!

A short post prandial vineyard stroll, was fascinating to hear about the biodynamic approach used since the early 2000’s , including increase of fruit trees throughout the vines to act as resting spots for bats, who become part of the integrated pest management system, to extend their hunting zone. In the cellars, the increased use of amphorae since 2010, which helps the purity of the fruit & the aromas - something that is very noticeable in the glass. A fabulous visit, with incredible welcoming hospitality by Daisy Sichel, part of the next generation taking Angludet forward - it is in excellent hands!

Staying in a Château on a working wine estate for the Left Bank part of the tour was really something very special, from when we arrived at Château Beychevelle, the house team were assiduous in their care; a welcome glass of Champagne on the terrace overlooking the gardens, which reach down to the Gironde estuary, through to a sumptuous candle lit dinner in the wood panelled dining room. Built in the classic Chartreuse style, it’s also known as the Versailles of the Medoc; the interiors have been beautifully and sympathetically restored, honouring the history of this property in the St Julien appellation. A spectacular juxtaposition between old and modern, as the cellars sit next to the Chateau, not spoiling the line of the property, but once inside, welcome to an immaculate cutting edge winery, combining glass & metal in its design by the architect Arnaud Boulain.

Tasting with the erudite Philippe Blanc, Managing Director, who has been at Beychevelle since 1995. Admiral 2022, known by some as the second wine of the property, but a gorgeous wine in its own right, with fresh bright acidity and appealing younger drinking window. Then onto the Grand Vin in 2022, 2020 and 2005. Hard to call a favourite amongst the house signature style but certainly even with more than 21 years under its belt, the 2005 was still showing great energy, nice notes of raspberry leaves. A real honour to listen to Philippe’s incredible knowledge but also refreshing honesty about the world of Bordeaux wine.

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A short hop staying within the St Julien appellation for our next tasting at Château Talbot. History tells that the estate was named after a British Solder, Connetable Talbot, who was killed in 1453, at the Battle of Castillon, and the estate was named in his honour and since 1917, owned by the Cordier family. Their barrel hall, by local architects Nairac and Vacheyrout, designed to look like a forest (albeit trees of concrete), and also can be seen as representing the Cordier family tree. The walls lined with mirrors create a never ending reflection of barriques, really very impressive. Tasting both the Connetable and the Grand Vin in 2016, with the latter showing stunning ripe black fruit and lovely pure acidity, which was crying out for some roast duck! But as always at Talbot, my favourite is their lesser known white, Caillou Blanc, the Sauvignon showing a little more dominant than usual above the Semillon, (maybe because we were tasting on a leaf day in the biodynamic calendar?) but still a truly delightful wine.

Château Palmer is one of the most distinctive properties as one drives along the Route des Chateaux, the rather more lyrical name for the prosaic D2, with the iconic blue slate turrets dramatic against the white stone façade. Today, focus is firmly on biodynamic principals, indeed beyond the vines, they have three kitchen gardens home to 10 pigs, 20 cows and a handful of sheep! Much of the produce is used in their two restaurants. Tasting of the Alto Ego 2020 and the Grand Vin 2015; the latter was quite simply superb. Lucious fruit but with no hint of blowsiness, graphite, cassis, blueberries - so much going on in the glass - only issue was drinking so well now, that I would struggle to be patience to allow future maturation, which with its great structure, will clearly do. Lunch was a wonderful experience at their staff canteen - Cantine Vigneronne - where all the vineyards workers and office staff join together for lunch at the estate - plus us! Simply, hearty, delicious food reflecting their sustainability ethos - essential for an afternoon’s hard work pruning in the vines, but equally appreciated by those of us who had less manual labour planned for the rest of the day, maybe just more wine tasting! White bean velouté served family style, spicy sausage rougaille plus cheese & fruit - heavenly! Served with the Vin de Lie, the red house wine made for Chateau Palmer staff was eminently drinkable, and with quirky labels. Blanc de Palmer, a blend of several varieties, but mainly aromatic Muscadelle (though with a smidge of the almost extinct Lauset variety), an excellent palate reviver after the tannins of the pre lunch tasting. As the chatter turned to betting tips for forthcoming Cheltenham Gold Cup (unexpectedly accurate as I won on all three first places!) , it was time to pour the Palmer Grand Vin 2012. A vintage often under rated, it was showing very well on the day - Seductive, liquorice, dark plums - the vinous equivalent of a comfy leather Chesterfield in which to relax.

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Perhaps thanks to their Irish heritage, the Barton family of Château Léoville Barton & Château Langoa Barton are quite simply one of the most hospitable of all wine families, and so with great pleasure, we took the clients for a tasting and dinner at their property in St Julien. Thomas Barton arrived from his native Ireland to Bordeaux in 1722, and today it is the 9th & 10th generation still in charge of the family wine interests. Welcomed by the always charming Damien Barton Sartorius, it was with some reflection that I realised that over the last 25 plus years, I have been lucky enough to have been hosted at Langoa by three generations of the wonderful Barton family. After a walk through their new (ish) cellars, tasting of the Château Léoville Barton 2014, Langoa Barton 2016 & Mauvesin 2020, apologies for no tasting comments (beyond the fact the Mauvesin was already deliciously approachable) but I was distracted by the canine welcoming committee! After a hard days wine tasting, and so much tannin, the Bartons understand a chilled glass of Champagne is essential before dinner! Mauvesin 2019 (lots of plums thanks to the higher Merlot percentage), Langoa 2012 (near perfect balance of spice, energy & texture) and Leoville Barton 2004 (great intensity of ripe, dark fruit) made for a memorable dinner - each wine showing stunningly well.

A sad farewell to our Chateau base, but a tasting at one of the other Leoville estates awaited, at Château Léoville Poyferré. Originally one single vast estate, the property was split after the French Revolution, into the three totally independent Leoville estates of today (Barton, Poyferré & Las Cases). A fascinating cellar visit encompassing new & old techniques, learning more in depth about the detailed level used for the optical sorting of grapes though to the rather incredulous faces of some when learning that Poyferré still use candlelight for racking! Pavillon 2016 (from the younger vines but with an attractive purity of fruit), the Grand Vin of Leoville Poyferré from 2019 vintage was dark & brooding, still very young, the Chateau Moulin Riche 2018 simply had the tasting note - BUY!

Owner & Winemaker, Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac was fascinating to listen to, with his passion and commitment which focuses on every aspect of their estate, starting with the vines planted on the revered gravel-covered plateau. Often following his own path, taking decisions ahead of other Bordeaux estates, be it with a view to the cellars, making them more sustainable or replanting certain plots, improving the vineyard management - each connects to the next link to create wines with great character. Brane 2023 was incredibly smooth for such a young wine with a beguiling freshness. Brane 2016, seen by many in the wine world as one of the most outstanding wines from this estate was utterly delicious, classic elegant Margaux in style but with violets on the nose and incredible finish. The limited production of Brane Cantenac Blanc, mostly SB with lots of citrus but with inviting honied notes of Semillon peeping through was the ideal start to a delicious lunch matched with other Brane vintages - wonderful visit.

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Heading into Bordeaux for the night, time for some R&R over dinner at one of my favourite restaurants in the city - Bistro 1925. Not only because of the delectable food, but also as they have a lovely wine list beyond just Bordeaux - especially from the Loire including this zingy Pouilly Fumé from Domaine Dagueneau. Cue also a Riesling from Domaine Trapet from the Schoenenbourg vineyard in Alsace, Chateau Canon 2014 to go with the Quasi de Veau, ending with a classic pairing of Chateau Doisy Vedrines Sauternes 2001 with tarte tatin.

Last day of our tour dawned, but something special to start with at Château La Mission Haut Brion. Despite the slight mizzle, its always so lovely to visit this picturesque estate, which notwithstanding its location in the suburbs of Bordeaux, conveys such a sense of peace & calm. From the cloisters to the small Chapel, the history of the Lazarist monks who bought the estate in 1664, lingers with a peaceful air. Tasting La Mission from 2017 vintage, which was ripe & voluptuous, followed by the same vintage from Haut Brion with damsons, black cherries, even a touch of smokiness - absolute delight to taste these two iconic wines side by side.

Domaine de Chevalier, a Graves Cru Classé estate was our last wine estate of this Bordeaux experience, and welcomed by the charismatic Remi Edange, it was a fine end to the tour. Owned by the Bernard family since 1983, but the roots of the estate growing vines dates back to the 17th Century. Today, still surrounded by forest, which helps their biodiversity, they produce reds from Cabernets Sauvignon & Franc with Merlot and for the whites, Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon. But we set the group to work, as all the wines over lunch were served blind, so much speculation ensued. For me, the Domaine de Chevalier white stole the show with orchard fruit, especially pears, with a touch of beeswax from the Sem. Perfect ending to a lovely four days in Bordeaux with a group of private clients from London.

All photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey on tour. www.lovewinefood.com

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Dusking, not just another wellness fad, but a revival of an old Dutch habit - schemeren, about which I read this week. How Dutch author Marjolijn van Heemstra, is reintroducing it to people as a subtle way of underlining the change in tempo at the end of the day. That calming breath that distracts from the stress of working day. The pause. The reflection. The stillness. It works. Try it.

All herald the arrival of March, the transitional month. So many wonderful posts by my fellow Substack writers on here last week, as we all hesitantly looked out from under the necks of our oversized cuddly jumpers, out from under the duvet, peering out from under the snuggly on the sofa like a myopic mole. This year so far has seemed particularly bad weather wise, and no doubt we are all in need of hope and new life.

Is there any wild garlic out there yet? Its been so muddy and sodden underfoot, I’ve hardly dared to venture out to look - but am relishing it’s arrival, so can make these delicious wild garlic scones, recipe by Donal Skehan, ready to be lashed with proper butter (check out the insanely good Bungay Butter from those lovely folk who also make Baron Bigod cheese).

Seems an age ago now, it’s been one of those weeks, where the to do list keeps expanding like the magic porridge pot, but last weekend’s kitchen pootling found me trying out the poached fillet of beef recipe from Matt Tebbutt’s book Weekend: Cooking at Home

Incredibly simply, even though as fillet is eye wateringly expensive, meant that I watched it like a hawk during the poaching, as his firm instruction do not boil running through my brain like a weird mantra on repeat, fearful of over cooking. But was utterly delicious, if ever there was a recipe for buy good meat and don’t mess around with it - this is it! Sear the beef on all sides, then poach (super low heat, the occasional blip only) for 8 minutes (for 400gms) in a blend of beef consommé, red wine and my very proudly homemade Blue Peter style bouquet garni! (Stuffing two celery sticks with fresh bay leave & thyme was fine, however the string knots were less than perfect - but not helped by the OH calling in from the sitting room, “make sure its not blue string Bridget!”)

Resting is key, and for me my beloved meat thermometer to be 50 degrees. Skipped Matt’s potato part of the recipe and instead enjoyed with Tuscan potatoes, lots of rosemary & garlic.

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Hollandaise sauce. Shivers thinking about the horror stories of this sauce splitting, scrambling and worse. So apologies to Meistr Tebbutt, but also skipped his instructions on hollandaise. Tempted to buy a tub from local Deli, but figured that it’s the weekend, with all the time to make it, watch it split, throw it away and rush out to buy a replacement if needed! For making mayonnaise at home, am long time devotee of the fool proof stick blender method been using for 30 years, so would it work with hollandaise? Little bit of research, (ok so I just googled it), and found this recipe (no to the paprika, but thank you) . Know that purists will frown, can almost hear the quiet, gentle thud as Escoffier falls over on his cloud, but I do love the chuck it all in attitude. No clarification or separation of butter - result? It was rich, was stable, great consistency & texture and utterly delicious. Cannot wait for asparagus season to do this hollandaise again.

Oh and such delicious meat, called for a rather nice bottle of Gevrey Chambertin as well!

Books:

Rooted in Change: The Stories behind Sustainable Wine. Before you yawn, this is no dry, dusty , worthy tomb - but excellently written (& researched) book by Jane Master MW & Andrew Neather. No lecturing (or hectoring) just informative & fascinating, written in an accessible fashion, clearly presented without a hint of dumbing down. Each aspect is examined from how sustainability has to be reviewed and improved at every stage from distribution, the supply chain, vinification practise, energy use in the winery (never a straightforward discussion, as Nigel from Felton Road in NZ explains), the issues surrounding bulk wine shipping…….

So many of the ecological issues addressed in the book can be seen in a wider context, far beyond just wine - so yes this is a book for everyone, as Sir John Hegarty states in his pithy introduction (worth buying it for that alone, just wait till you get to the bit about Elvis is alive & living in Croydon!) The book has already won the John Avery award at the prestigious Andre Simon awards 2026, so put it on your TBR list. (Also includes some great words such as cullet. Nope, me neither, apparently it is glass in its broken down state.)

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Wines:

Well at LWF HQ, there have been some rather lovely wines shared with friends over last week, (and quite a few from the brilliant Wine Society) but the one that really fascinated me was the Gewürztraminer made by Kamil Barczenetewicz in Poland. My first encounter with Polish wine, was a fantastic sherbet zingy Polish Riesling served blind by their brilliant Sommelier at The Clove Club a couple of years ago, and been meaning to pop over to Poland to do some wine research ever since. This bottle has convinced me to bump that research up the list! Grapes grown on limestone, and only with stainless steel, so was a delightful fresh white, whispers of understated classic aromatics of rose & lychees but eminently drinkable (perhaps too easily so) - and was perfect foil to a crab spaghetti supper. £18 RRP Available Wine Society

Other glasses enjoyed included

Crystallum Peter Max Pinot Noir 2024- from the coastal region of Hemel en Aarde in South Africa. Been revisiting this wine every couple of vintages, since their first PN release of the 2008. Just keeps getting better, the 2024 is all lovely black cherries with hint of Burgundian style earthiness - a cracking PN, with good body & length. RRP unknown as pulled from the wine rack.

Keeping with the South African vibe, was an old favourite from super stellar wine maker Adi Badenhorst - Secateurs. Chenin Blanc grapes from vines at least 35 years old in the Swartland region go into this offbeat white, great texture that makes it a great food wine (unlike many bland BOB Chenins on the market). Slight smoke, lots of honey, white flowers - delicious and good value for this quality. Also note different GOVT health warming on the back label - legally binding to use one of such warnings in ZA, including this one (see photo) - and a valid one especially on the Cape. £14.50 Wine Society

Encruzado, one of my favourite white varieties, ever since visited Quinta dos Roques in the Dão region of Portugal about 25 years ago. The variety, which had become unfashionable and had very low plantings, was given a new lease of life by the charming Luís Lourenço, winemaker and owner at Quinta dos Roques. Using a small amount of oak, which does not cover the fruit, but allows to shine. Multi layers of flavours, from lemons, orange blossom, hint of vanilla, even more savoury herbs, sage, and quite frankly, just flipping fabulous. Great wine from a lovely family! £23.50 Wine Society

Anyone else enjoying the quirky Small Prophets sitcom? Congratulations to the commissioning editor on reading the script - Well, its about a man who works in a DIY store, hates the customers, is mourning the disappearance of his girlfriend, his father played by Michael Palin persuades him to turn to Alchemy, and creating truth speaking homunculi. Was bit of a leap of faith! Simply brilliant. How come have jumped to TV? Simply word association, when was watching it, the thought occurred, have not had any Prophets Rock wine from New Zealand’s Central Otago for a while, so opened a bottle of their fabulous dry Riesling. Good structure, but with fresh acidity, lots of lime zest, notes of pink grapefruit, but with underlying wet stone (sorry for the floweriness, this wine does this!) . And the texture that makes me go back to it again and again - it also ages really well if you can bear to stash a few bottles away. £24 Wine Society

Slovenian White Benedict Dveri Pax - Had lunch at this beautiful historical wine estate in Slovenia last year, where the Benedictine monks started wine making there 800 years ago. Their wines are very easy drinking, made from a host of different varieties. Furmint, pinot gris, welschriesling and touch of Riesling in this one. Confess bought because it has the name of my nephew on the label (am as susceptible as anyone to such marketing things!). Nowhere the complexity of other wines above, but an easy quaffing apero when the sun finally returns £11.95 Wine Society

Over in Wine Travel

Am off to Bordeaux for first wine tour of the season on Saturday. Mostly Left Bank but with a splash of Graves - tasting notes follow next week!

All content is self funded, so just my opinions - no paid content!

Spring is the time of plans and projects. These words of Konstantin in the timeless novel of Anna Karenina came to mind yesterday in the unlikely location of a Waitrose Car Park. Seemingly overnight, under cerulean skies, Spring is bursting out all around, dark trees with wiry, gnarly branches that in the dusk only a day ago, appeared spookily like the witch in Hansel & Gretel, transformed miraculously by soft, clusters of pillowy blossom into the gentle Princess in Hans Christian Andersen’ tale of her and the pea!

So much bird song thrilling the air. The delight of the dawn chorus fortissimo through the open bedroom windows.

A small girl playing Pooh sticks, smiling at her Father in utter joy (even if was in a very small stream in said supermarket car park)

Smiles. Unexpected. Warming. Uplifting.

Reminding me that The Small Things do really cheer our soul. (Not the magazine of the same name, much as I do love the calming design of their covers, but there never seems time enough to read it, which rather negates the point, also not sure of my need to make my own reed diffuser). But such small seemingly insignificant things, often connected to mother nature, with no commercial value, that make the heart soar with happiness.

This uplifting spell of sunshine, the tentative start to Spring, emboldened us to make first foray of the year into the local pub garden. OK, so did not divest chunky jumper & scarf, but with the fairy lights twinkling against brick wall of courtyard, and looking out for the starlings against the darkening dusk sky made me forget (most) of the recent constant rains.

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But still not yet quite time to give up on the comforting broths, casseroles and various pasta al forno of winter. It all started with a encounter with some lamb shanks in our local butcher, which ended up with a delicious lamb & aubergine thing, which was definitely over catered. No matter, as a brilliant winemaker in Barolo once told me, great wine is never made by just one decision, but a series of tiny links like a fine necklace. My sentiments on cooking & the reinvention of leftovers. Drawn to some red potatoes with deeply hued yellow flesh, decided to bake them for mash rather than boil, for an indulgent Sheppard’s Pie. Which then lead to thinking of the next meal in the link, as was left with some empty baked jacket potatoes skins. Normally would simply reheat, add extra salt & EVOO and consume hungrily as a snack. But browsing Tom Kerridge’s Hand & Flowers book at the weekend, was inspired to use them for adding extra something to stock. Digging some chicken stock from the freezer (another meal recycling), cooked the baked skins at 180 for 35 mins, popped into the hot stock, covered tightly and left to infuse for 30 mins. Result? A real depth of flavour, more savoury & complex (even if smelling the mouth-watering ultra baked potatoes aroma for half an hour was so hard to ignore). Was a great base for a rift on a mid week ramen, but think would be incredible as a base for a broth & dumplings.

First week on Substack

Phew! Made it through my first week and excitingly reached 100 readers (well subscribers at least, lets hope some of them who kindly signed up are reading it too!) . Who knows if that’s a good or bad figure, all I know is that it’s made me very happy and called for a celebration of sorts! So thank you SO much to all of you.

What’s it been like? One thing have learnt that beyond the usual roll call of fantastic famous people knew I’d discover on here such as Mark Diacono and Fiona Beckett, there a plethora of unsung heroes whose posts have fascinated such as Swallows & Crows with hauntingly beautiful songs of the Sea from Cornwall or the lovely lady writing about Black pudding in Ireland! The slight downside is so many to distract me from my toppling email mountain! (See Lent below….)

A post a day for the first week, as advised by those more experienced than yours truly on here, was both compelling and terrifying. As one friend said, I can barely read as fast as you write, so now just once a week post with the odd note here and there, is much more soothing, for all!

Substack to me has been a revelation of good writing, like Alice down the rabbit hole, leading curiously from: a rant on if wine getting worse, to staying in a lighthouse, via celebrating Saint Days in Abruzzo. In a good way.

For all of you good people of Substack who’ve recently started posting, would love to hear about your first forays, comments on how you are finding it , do please share.

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Wines

With my darling Mother down last weekend (aka the Fizz Queen), a good opportunity to open a couple of Sparklers. First from our recent trip to Burgundy, Le Grand Lys, a Crémant de Bourgogne from Domaine Jean Noel Gagnard. 100% Pinot Noir vineyards from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, that are both organic & biodynamic. Three years on its lees with a low dosage - beautiful ripeness and balance, lots of character for a Crémant.

The other one was a revelation (well to rest of the gang imbibing as I had already tasted it at the vineyards last year). From Tenuta Travaglino in the Oltrepo Pavese region in NW Italy. Riserva del Fondatore released to celebrate their 150th anniversary. Made mostly Pinot Noir, with a splash (5%) of Chardonnay, the glass almost quivering with energy & character. Yes, there was all the expected notes of toast & brioche, but so much more, bright, fruit notes, with still fresh acidity balancing the depth of complexity, with fine bubbles. Truly fantastic sparkling wine. (Do join me on our Oltrepo Pavese tour in June, if you’d like to taste this on home turf)

Cheese this week?

Made hungry writing my post last week about national cheese boards to enjoy whilst watching the Six Nations, decided to order a selection of Irish cheeses from Mike’s Fancy Cheese (great name for a shop!) in Belfast.

Mount Leinster - Made in West Wicklow from summer milk. A clothbound cheddar aged for at least one year, golden colour and rich in flavour. Absolutely order again.

Sobhriste - Well named (means fragile / delicate) as a stye similar to Caerphilly. Lovely crumbly texture and slight note of citrus & buttermilk. Will also be perfect for making Glamorgan Sausages.

Young Buck - Blue made from raw milk from Holstein Friesians. Aged for at least 12 weeks - creamy & salty at the same time. Delicious on a ginger nut.

Cavanbert - Camembert style made in County Cavan. Oozing perfection.

Coolea - A mature version, made in 2018! An Irish “Gouda” style, great combo of saltiness, with caramel notes. Really stunning.

Carlow Sheep was my least favourite as an eating cheese, but in a cheese sauce for baked pasta was ideal.

What I’ve been reading this week.

Apart from a re-read of an old Agatha Christie (Betrams Hotel, such a classic), its been mostly cook books this week, including Matt Tebbutt’s Weekend. Fabulous selection of real recipes that cannot wait to try this weekend, including poached fillet of beef plus also crab scones with fennel salad. Will let you know how they turn out!

Music & Noise

When both halves work from home, albeit in different rooms, it creates certain habits, requires audio respect and compromise. The sound of outsize headphones being firmly applied by the OH as the strains of Barwick Green echo from my desk during my daily catch up the Archers (apologies to non Archer Fans- do just skip further down - but for fellow Archer Addicts - Why is anyone ever taken in by George Grundy’s faux niceness? Yes looking at you Brian Aldridge!).

Whilst working on tours when at my desk. No Music with words. Maybe because I jump from email to email in French to Italian, Spanish to (bad) Portuguese - any songs with lyrics would just compound the cacophony of words in my mind, the insidious creep of a parody of Esperanto. But the Deutsche Gramophone collection, a soothing, background of classical to the most absorbing of tasks.

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Wine Tour World

My desk is currently covered with menus ahead of my Veneto tour next month. Longing for some garnet hued Risotto all’Amarone in Verona, a platter of Speck in Trento, grilled fish from Lake Garda and maybe Spider Crab Linguini when we reach the Venetian Lagoon.

Lent

Did you give something up for Lent? Nine days into it, and am reviewing my 2026 choice. Procrastination. Yup, after thoughtful consideration and am still trying to work out if giving up Procrastination makes this negative habit become a positive? Google reliably (!) informs me that it is due to emotional regulation issue such as fear, anxiety, perfectionism, or boredom, rather than just laziness. Oh so that makes me feel better! I thought it was just my love of working to deadlines.

Reflections

Otherwise known as random mind bounces. Sorry if I digress occasionally, there might be a few of theses at times, as my ping ball machine of a mind flips, bounces and bumps off into sometimes interesting, often quirky, simply a rant on aspect of life that week, or simply unexpected side trails.

Potholes. Really. Too Many. Loath to post a picture for fear of falling into the trap of that politico who take photos of manhole covers but honestly. The one the size of a small puma close to my house, with lumps of rubble bounced out as big as a curling stone. Not to discuss politics, but word of advice to all parties - say you'd instantly fix all pot holes, total vote winner!

With March already on the doorstep, am happily browsing Easter recipes. Key one this year will be torta di riso, though not sure can create as delicious a version as the one I ate in Bologna last year - any recommendations / recipe tips all happily received!

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Photos all taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey. All elements in post self funded. No Paid Content.

A leisurely lunch with a good friend is always something to be anticipated with delight, a bright spot to dispel the grey of a mid February day, especially with the wind whistling around the lanes of Guildford strong enough to take the ears off a donkey. The county town of Surrey continues to be a regular haunt for our always entertaining meet ups, thanks purely to convenient train links from Hampshire and Berkshire. Usually our default is a (superb) Italian restaurant, but yesterday decided a more Hellenic slant was required for a change - and so booked a table at the welcoming Greek Restaurant, Theoin, in Guildford.

In a converted chapel dating back to 1802, that also had a spell as a dance school & rehearsal home to an am-dram society, the vaulted wooden ceiling soars high above the tables, a sense of light & airiness pervades. To be honest, is was the wine list that drew the decision to lunch there, a well curated selection of Greek wines, with a smattering from elsewhere.

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Thalassitis from Gaia Estate, grapes grown on the volcanic soils of Santorini in the Cyclades. Made from the island’s iconic white variety, Assyrtiko, from almost 80 year old vines located in the best vineyard locations on the island. Instant mineral hit on the nose, with really appealing citrus notes and a rounded texture, plus sapid, saline finish. Removed from the wine cooler, which really let the riper stone fruit element, even slightly honied finish, shine through.

Reading the menu, whilst grazing on the delicious nibbles, I reflected on how a menu can read so understatedly and yet the actual food over delivers on expectation. Conversely sadly often the other way, with lyrical written descriptions that arrive at the table with a sinking of the heart. But at Theoin, what was described simply as a trio of dips, was a great announcement of the meal to come. Topped with piquant micro herbs, the ubiquitous Tzatziki taken to the next level, with a drizzle of dill oil, Kopanisti (made from Florina red pepper with feta cheese & toasted pine nuts), and a burnt aubergine cream, for which I would happily have considered selling my beloved first edition Baedeker guide book. Added to this tris of dipping happiness was home made pita, soft & pillowy that had been charred to the edge of intensity.

Hot Mezze to start, sadly the 48h cooked Surrey Farm Beef Brisket croquettes were conspicuous by their absence in the kitchen that day - so panko coated fried calamari with squid ink mayonnaise on the opposite side of the table and my second choice as no croquettes - the simply styled Chicken skewer. Not sure how good the absent croquettes were - but they’d need to be exceedingly delicious to outshine this chicken. Marinated chicken thighs, so, so succulent, and ably supported by a lemon oil & dill side sauce. Really excellent.

Our usual smorgasbord of conversation, progressed from family news and descended as usual into thoughtful pulling apart of the political situation. Good food & wine plus lively conversation, no wonder these lunches are usually several hours long!

Leaning towards a Xinomavro as our red option (as a Nebbiolo lover it’s always a safe bet amongst Greek Reds) , but with such a list to peruse, instead went for a native grape variety - Mouhtaro. A very rare red grape, hailing from Askri at the foot of Mt Helicon in Thiva (central Greece) which was almost extinct until a revival in the late 1990’s. Aged 12 months in 2nd & 3rd use french oak barrels, intense red fruit on the nose, slight hint of violets, warmth of nutmeg & cinnamon, a lovely tang of acidity that made is so food friendly, but ending with ripe & silky tannins. Mouhtaro Muses Estate 2023

Rare that we both chose the same main course, but Robata lamb chops, doused in vegetable treacle (who knew that was a thing!) before grilling over charcoal, were too good to resist. The vegetable treacle adding a depth of complexity between the sweetness & slightly earthy lamb. Heaven with the Mouhtaro.

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Desserts don’t often get a look in from yours truly, but Black Treacle and sea salt almond cake, pistachio praline, baklava ice cream, sumac meringue? Crying out to be tasted - so light, yet well balanced so not overly sweet. Opposite side of the table jealously guarded his Crème Brûlée, which was inspired by the classic Greek Portokalopita orange flavours.

Samos in the islands of the Eastern Aegean is home to some excellent dessert wines, so we were tempted by the eponymously named wine, from the Samos Wine Cooperative. Made by the Solera system, with unfurling layers of complexity in the glass. A wine made for leisurely conversation and constant sniffing! Orange marmalade, sultanas, leading into deeper intense notes of figs & black treacle toffee, but with good acidity so not cloying in the mouth. Made from five different vintages, the solera dating back to the 1995 vintage. Perfect.

Ending - or so we thought - with some of the best espresso this side of Turin, but our waiter, whose love of wine showed strongly throughout the lunch, decided we should enjoy a Greek digestif, so appeared a couple of rotund brandy balloons, balanced above tumblers of hot water to gently warm the spirit and release the aromas. A lovely touch of table theatre. Metaxa Private Reserve Metaxa Orama, distilled from Muscat grapes from Samos.

Good people of Guildford, you are so lucky to have this charming restaurant on your doorstep. Theoin is linked to the original Greek word for Divine or Godly - a well chosen name for this heavenly restaurant.

Theoin - Centenary hall, Chapel Street, Guildford, GU3 1UH www.theoin.co.uk

Wine Bar:

Handily on the way back to the glamourous surroundings of Guildford train station, is located an excellent wine shop - the ideal place to call in for a placatory gift to please our long suffering and tolerant, wine loving OH’s at respective homes.

Corkage, tucked away down a side street in Guildford city centre, not only stocks an enviable selection of wines from all across the wine world - including classics but also eclectic, independent winemakers. In a Pinot Noir style of mood, so a bottle of Ata Rangi from New Zealand to please my OH, but also tempted in a bottle of Crystallum Pinot Noir from South Africa.

Surrounded by such vinous temptation, Corkage is the best place to shelter from the rain, as it is not only a wine shop but also a wine bar. They always have a range of wines available by the glass from their Enomatic display. Great choice that you can so can taste in three sizes - a tiny snifter taster sample just to see if you like it, a small glass or a full glass if you really love it! Some of the wines on tasting yesterday were

Vallado Touriga Nacional from the Douro Valley in Portugal

Clos de Luz Syrah from Chile

Albe Barolo by GD Vajra from Nebbiolo grapes, Piemonte, Italy

Granville Basalt Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley (just 500 cases made)

Cru Heretaunga Albariño from Smith & Sheth, New Zealand

Corkage also host wine tasting evenings in their cosy wine bar!

Corkage - 60 Quarry Street, Guildford, Surrey, GU1 3UA www.corkage.co.uk

PS - All self funded (bar the offered Brandy!) - not paid / sponsored content.

We’re all different and we all like different things - that’s a given and one of the most joyful things in life. But amongst all the hustle & noise of travel these days, my absolute joy of train travel rather than yet another airport cannot be understated. As I spend much of my working life travelling to wine regions around the world, my loathing for airports increases with each year - they are necessary to do what I love, of course, but airports are still low on my list of enjoyments. Perhaps surprisingly, I actually rather like flying - my phone bears testament to the thousands of images taken above and in the clouds, as we glide above the Alps.

But airports?? The incredible amount of time required to arrive before the flight, the glaring neon lights of the departure lounge that is a byword word for Shopping or more simply - we will bamboozle you with boredom into buying things you don’t want!

So a journey by train sounds - and usually is - heavenly relaxing in comparison. Admittedly it can take longer (though having just looked at travel to the Rheingau region for a German tour, London to Frankfurt is only 5.5 hours station to station).

Just before Christmas, to the total disbelief & total incomprehension of my OH (he was not the only one mouthing “she’s crazy!”) , I boarded a train here in the South Downs with the final destination - Scottish Highlands. Now, I could have gone to our local airport (which can equally be Gatwick, Heathrow or even Southampton) but no, the journey was part of my mini break away. The Caledonian Sleeper, which whilst not even their marketing department could describe as a truly luxury sleeper train, but oh the hop skip and jump of my heart, as watched her pull in alongside the platform at Euston. (Interesting thought popped up in my chaotic brain - what IS actual Luxury - maybe that’s one for another day). The Cabins on board are perfectly fine, if somewhat cosy in size once you’ve stashed your case, walking boots and heavy winter coat under the bunk! Even without sheets of 500 thread count of more luxury trains, the blissful bouncy feeling of happiness that I get from being on board this sleeper train can only be equalled by a snowball fight. Naturally went prepared with a hip flask of Single Malt and a good book (Ann Cleave’s latest in the “Shetland Series” with Jimmy Perez set on Orkney) . Brilliant nights sleep - and proper roll & bacon delivered to the cabin in the morning!

The reason for a Scottish jaunt in the midst of winter? Given that I left London in the dark, and got off the train in Scotland at 07.00, when the sky was black, with dazzling gems of ice mixed with salt on the platform, it was not for the views from the train. Though confess after saying farewell to the Sleeper, the burgeoning light as the sun woke up over the loch in the photos below were breath-taking.

Tarbert on Loch Fyne, a small fishing village easily explored in about 20 mins, is at the start of the Kintyre peninsula in Argyll. But there was one huge reason for being there - Eddi Reader and her brilliant band were playing in the Village Hall. For yours truly, not a fan of huge concert venues, this was divine. Apart from a brilliant concert of very talented musicians (the rendition of Patience of Angels - cue tingles on back of neck), there was such an welcoming atmosphere - indeed I was promptly adopted by two ladies from Glasgow to join them for the concert!

Just one night staying by the Loch, and then back on board the Caledonian Sleeper, this time boarding in Fort William, to do the whole journey start to finish. A more sensible time boarding meant could head to the Club Car on board for a wee dram or two, some amusing banter courtesy of on board crew and of course, it’s almost obligatory to have a Tunnock Caramel wafer!

All Quiet on Board

Trains anywhere will always get my vote, though I was reminded recently how noisy the trains are in England. Not through any design fault of the actual train (though can still remember the slam door rolling stock when I moved to Hampshire a quarter of a century ago - conversation was almost impossible). But today it’s the continual back ground buzz from people’s phones, their headphones, crowded carriages with not enough seats - it’s hardly ever a very soothing experience. Compare to my journey in France a couple of weeks ago - no mobiles permitted in the carriage. If you need to use one, you are kindly, but strongly requested over the tannoy to do so in the Vestibule. You have to love any Train Company that uses the word Vestibule in a public announcement, rather more charming than our announcements of See It Say It Sort It (though thanks to the rather dodgy speakers on board, am never quite sure if that last word should be Sort it or Sorted??). Result - a calming atmosphere in which to travel, everyone with their allocated seat -and the pleasure of having time to watch the countryside go by.

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Part of the Journey

That having said, train travel is also a great way to meet & chat to people when ensconced in a carriage together for a while. One of my favourite books, Brideshead Revisited has a wonderful part when Sebastian & Charles, travelling from London to Venice in Third Class, and almost out of money, in Milano Centrale, picking up flasks of Orvieto & garlicky salami for a few lire from a passing trolley on the platform and how the train fills with Italian and their picnics. Do read - its such an evocative paragraph. A far cry from standing in line at Starbucks, or reducing all human contact by ordering your food on a computer display screen.

Trains of course also tick the eco / green box, but apologise that sadly that is not my overriding reason for using them. We seem to have outsourced the part of a journey to our ultimate destination as a drudge that should not be part of travel, but rather a resented inconvenience to be borne rather than a delight to be experienced. Such as the unbelievable indulgence of lunching at the Station Restaurant that is Le Train Bleu at Paris Gare de Lyon. Forget all ideas of a dusty station buffet offering limp sandwiches, Le Train Bleu dating from 1900 is an iconic restaurant that just happens to be in a station! In 1963, the original buffet was reinvented as Le Train Bleu - the Blue Train - named in tribute to the legendary train that ran from Paris to Ventimiglia, calling in at all the fashionable hot spots on the French Riviera en route. (Agatha Christie even wrote a book about a murder onboard, albeit the lesser known of her “murder on a train” mysteries!). In 1972, the restaurant and lounges of Le Train Bleu were listed as a French National Monument, rather befitting as you’ll see from the photo below. Not just the iconic gold décor, but the food & service are also guaranteed to raise your journey into the realms of memories. My starter last time, was described as an insalata caprese - but a work of art on a plate appeared. A whole ball of Buffalo Mozzarella which had been injected with fresh basil purée and served on a tomatoes concassé. Indeed, that fine Spring Day in Paris, I almost missed my connection to Burgundy - always a hazard of such a fine lunch.

As a slight aside, as am sure most of you already know of this - but will mention here as was surprised the other day to find a fellow frequent traveller had not - One of the best websites to facilitate train travel is the brilliantly researched -The Man in Seat 61 - his incredible level of information makes pre-planning a journey by train so much easier!

So many memories of train journeys:

The Orient Express, well yes I was technically working as we’d chartered the train for a special wine event but still was incredible to wake up and watch the dramatic scenery of Swiss Alps and the Simplon Pass on our way to Venice.

The British Pullman such a throw back to another era. Fed my Downtown Abbey zeal.

The train from Sicily to mainland Italy that actually GETS ON THE FERRY - my inner five year was so excited about that one, even including the boarding the train at Taormina’s jewel box of a station with its own museum at almost midnight.

Still on list is the Andean Explorer in Peru and the train that ends up in Mongolia for the ice Festival. Though am eagerly awaiting all the new European Sleeper train routes due to launch later in 2026 and into 2027. Until then, I will have to vicariously train travel by reading “Around the World in 80 Trains” .

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Last Night’s Wine

Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Dry Riesling: One of the best Rieslings in New Zealand, from the Donaldson family in the Waipara Valley. From 30 years plus vines, wonderful acidity, but with the rounded texture from that touch of botrytis on just some of the hand picked bunches. Fermented until dry and a touch of a spritz about it. Seductive on the nose with flint / slate - then into beautiful notes of ripe stone fruit, mandarin & lime but with nervy energy in the glass. Truly stunning.

Am sure that I should say it would pair heavenly with many Asian dishes, and indeed it would - but was rather delicious on a very cold Monday evening, when fish & chips were a naughty but essential treat after a tough Monday! - Available good independents and Majestic - RRP £24

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PS - all self funded. No paid content.

Photo of Le Train Bleu credited to Le Train Bleu.

All other photos taken by Cindy-Marie Harvey

Bodegas Garzon Albariño. An ultra exciting winery from Maldonado in Uruguay, produces some delectable wines, none more so than their Albariño’s. Located 11 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, with more than 1,000 small vineyard parcels on hillside slopes. Grown on granitic soils, affected by cooling Atlantic breezes. This Single Vineyard 2023 was zingy and vibrant, some tropical fruit expression but not over the top, balanced with with nice hint of saline & good minerality. A far cry from the fast approaching ubiquitous often bland Albariño examples in some UK wine bars - this was complex with body & texture.

I bought directly from importer but is available for retail from the nice team at Hic for £32. Drinking this made me look forward to our wine tour in Uruguay later this year - I’ve been so lucky to have visited Uruguay about 10 times - a beautiful country with such friendly people!

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Zweigelt from Lentsch. There are days when one simply looks for a red wine that is easy to approach, somewhat lighter in style yet with a smiling, welcoming disposition. This interpretation of Zweigelt was just that! The most planted red grape variety in Austria, Zweigelt can appear in all forms from Rosé to full bodied, oak aged versions. But this wine, from vineyards growing close to the beautiful Lake Neusiedl, owned by the Lentsch family, is pure & uncomplicated fun. Bursting with cherries, soft hint of violets, was the ideal wine with a lazy evening pizza at home! Available at Waitrose at just £10.25 RRP

Côte de Beaune Joseph Drouhin 2019. Diametrically opposite style to the Zweigelt above, this red Burgundy was sublimely complex, unfurling in the glass with every moment. Quivering with Pinot Noir elegance, with tart redcurrants to start, leading into a rounded, finish of silky tannins - notes of cinnamon and leather. Made from their younger vines of their Premier Cru Vineyards. Delightful.

(A gift but widely available in the UK - approx. RRP £40)

Domaine Paul Blanck Gewürztraminer 2023. Thought about cropping the photo to rid of the garish yellow label, but just a reminder of such bargains that jump into one’s basket when wandering the supermarket aisles, trying to muster enthusiasm for a shopping list that features only boring things such as Fairy & kitchen roll! Gewürztraminer - a wonderous aromatic white grape variety, and this from Alsace did not disappoint, showing classic notes of roses & lychee, with that typical spiciness, notes of ginger on the finish. (Hence the name of the variety - Gewurtz means spicy and Traminer is the name of the village from where it originates). Was a welcome apero with some warm smoked almonds, but would also be perfect with a coconut dominant curry (such as recipe Chameleon Curry in my book - Watercress Willow & Wine)

The above wine from the weekend, already got a shout out on a previous post - but the label is just so beautiful, that thought would share again. Name of the wine Srej is local Piemontese dialect for wood of oak trees (such as those near the winery from which this wine hails)

And finally, just a mention for our brilliant family run local butcher, Morgan’s in Petersfield - a Tomahawk steak, whose size suggests to have came from a Tyrannosaurus Rex! Not only visually impressive, the melting texture and intense flavour was sublime! Perfect foil for yet more radicchio (this time griddled!) - and there may have been a glass of Barolo as well……

PS - All wines & food mentioned are paid for with own money, not sponsored.

It all started with my aversion to red roses on Valentines Day. Growing up with a florist for a mother, each year of my childhood, I would be stunned by the increasingly crazy prices for a bunch of long stemmed Roses - which let’s face it, were always going to be hacked short to fit into many vases that only made an outing once a year. I’d look at the heaving buckets of shy but exquisite narcissi and the nodding heads of joyful daffodils, and ponder why anyone would consider the deep carmine roses a better expression of love.

So this year, it was fabulous to receive a mixed box of Radicchio from Natoora (with the fabulous marketing tag line, #RadicchioNotRoses. Bursting with different varieties, tardivo, variegated and pink bulbs of this delicious member of the chicory family. So beautiful the contrasting shades, indeed they seemed a bouquet. Though it coincided with Valentines Day, I also had a craving for some real radicchio, their crisp bitter yet sweet leaves.

Many a dark winters evening is spent curled up on the sofa, indulging in one of my favourite past times - perusing cook books. Tis always exciting to hold the pristine copy of whichever new book has just been published, but is soothingly reassuring to flick through the pages of an old favourite, maybe with some of the pages slightly stuck together with splashes of sauce. 4 Grosvenor Square is the London Residence of the Italian Ambassador, and the eponymous book of this address came out 10 years ago, written by His Excellency’s Chef , Abruzzo-born Danilo Cortellini. A glorious compendium of Italian recipes (passata di ceci con gamberi rossi and sgroppino are just two of them on repeat) - but one for a pink risotto with radicchio seemed ideal to try out for this Valentine lunch at home!

Now risotto is possibly my most comforting food, not to eat but to make. The calming almost zen like devotion of repetitive stirring, the pulverising of the leeks for the base - both guaranteed to relax and lower the cortisol. It’s something I make on default without a recipe, usually on a weekly basis, adding in whichever flavour combo is most suited to the season or more often, depending what is in the fridge, especially when its pouring with rain outside.

But Danilo’s recipe intrigued me - as he cooks the base onion first and then removes it and dry toast the rice kernels afterwards. Normally, I would do the rice in same pan after onion is cooked but wanting to see how that would affect the flavour, gave it a go. Apologies this is not a precise following of his recipe, more an inspiration of flavours.

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My quantities are vague, as risotto making for me tends to be that wonderful Italian phrase - QB - quanto basta (or translated as just enough or as much as is needed!) If you are new to, or slightly wary of risotto and want a professional recipe for basic white risotto with precise quantities - Jamie Oliver does one here - which allows you to simply change the additional flavours.

For two generous portions, with some left over for a couple of baby arancini or as we all look to Milan at the moment for the Winter Olympics, perhaps that wonderful Milanese leftovers recipe - Riso Al Salto (perfect for WFH lunch the next day, maybe with a cheeky smothering of fonduta cheese sauce?)

Danilo uses small white onion, which I tried yesterday , but think I would revert to my usual use of the more subtle leek - whichever allium tempts you, just make sure its very finely chopped. My knife skills being similar to those of Nigella rather than Nick Frost (do listen to his interview on the DISH podcast about a chopping challenge with Angela Hartnett and his love of food in general) - so I often will resort to using the electric mini food chopper to ensure its fine enough.

Melt decent amount of butter & drizzle of oil in a small frying pan or saucepan. Over medium to low heat, with occasional stir, cook the onion (or leek) until soft & translucent not coloured, or until have lost the sharp pungency to mellowness (about 15 mins but depends on your allium). Remove to a bowl and set aside.

Meanwhile heat your stock (see below ref stock advice) in saucepan and keep on a warm simmer. At the same time, wash your radicchio and trim individual leaves - I used 5 per person of the baby Verona Radicchio per person. When fully dried , lie on a parchment lined baking sheet - and brush generously with Mosto Cotto (see below) - put aside.

Take large heavy bottomed pan (I use my faithful Le Creuset casserole dish) and over medium heat, add the rice to dry pan (no oil or butter) - see below for which rice!. I allow in two small handfuls of rice per person, plus one for the pot.

When rice kernels smelly “toasty” - keep an eye on them as this can turn quickly, pour in a small glass of wine. My usual choice is actually Noilly Prat Vermouth, but Danilo’s recipe called for Prosecco. Now, I am not a huge fan of Prosecco, or rather at least not of the searingly acidic cheap stuff (though always happy to have a glass of Single Vineyard Grave di Stecca Prosecco from Nino Franco if you’re offering). But given the amount of cheese that follows, a healthy hit of acidity is a good thing - so finally a use for those mini bottles of prosecco).

Once the wine has bubbled almost away, start to add the warm stock, a ladleful at a time. Stir the risotto frequently, not letting it dry out - adding in the stock as needed. (I usually defrost a litre of stock from the freezer, even if not all needed, the remainder can be used up in other recipes next day).

After 10 mins, I added the cooked onions back in (usually they'd be in from the start) and keep stirring (it helps at this point to have some chilled music playing (Jack Johnson is ideal) and a glass of Cooking Wine in hand. By which I mean wine for the Cook to enjoy - not wine to be put into the recipe!

Start tasting the rice at about 15 mins - it varies quite a bit, depending on type & age of rice. Usually I find about 20- 22 minutes is average time when the rice has cooked through, but still with a pleasant, slightly resistant bite of al dente-ness. But go with your taste & instinct.

Once cooked, remove from heat and - add in a large handful of grated hard cheese, Danilo’s recipe uses Grana Padano, but I had some aged pecorino which worked well - also add in two tablespoons of soft fresh goats cheese (nothing too “goaty”) Now for the mantecatura - stir the cheeses with vigour (think mini work out for the arms) into the rice - this gives the risotto a creamier texture. I also added in a couple of small cubes of cold butter as well - but depends how flowing you like your risotto - I like it to be as the Italian say - all’onda.

Pop the tray of dressed radicchio leave in oven at 170 Celsius for just 45 seconds to a minute. (To be honest, next time I’ll just served them cold, as they would keep colour better, and the heat of the risotto will warm them on the plate)

Ladle risotto onto warmed plates, then sprinkle to cover totally with beetroot powder (see below), decorate with the warmed radicchio leaves and serve. Delicious!

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A couple of things for making risotto

Rice - as its the principal ingredient it has to be good. Always worth investing a bit more for quality rice, otherwise you will end up with mushy risotto. Widely available is Arborio rice, which is perfectly acceptable but I prefer to cook with Vialone Nano, as it has a higher starch content, and retains more bite as it absorbs the liquid. But also adore Acquerello Rice, which is a variety of Carnaroli rice which is aged for at least one year up to 8 years before release onto the market. Having visited their property Tenuta Colombara a couple of years ago, it was fascinating to see the process that the Rondolino family use to achieve this premium rice, white but with nutritional value of brown rice.

Stock - am fairly laid back as a cook, but this is one thing that is non negotiable for me. Home made stock. Yes. Please don’t squeak that it takes too long / don’t know what to do. If you love a roast chicken on a Sunday, you have a ready supply of delicious wobbly stock to stash in the freezer for when you absolutely need a risotto on a cold Tuesday evening . Throw the carcass with all bones, any discarded skin into a casserole / large saucepan, toss in some chopped celery, carrots, leeks, onions, handful of peppercorns of any colour, a couple of bays leaves - cover with good water and bring to boil, cover, turn down to a low blip blip blip of a simmer for about 1.5 hrs. Not only will the house smell incredible, but means that chicken you bought, has now given you a key ingredient for about another 4 meals. Leave to cool, strain everything into half litre / litre freezer tubs / bags - and when totally cooled - freeze.

What’s wrong with a stock cube comes the question? Well nothing really, and my store cupboard is home to some for other recipes but never risotto (Kallo Brand for preference) but even the premium ones have an ingredient list that is far too long. Making stock at home is so simple and so satisfying.

Beetroot powder - Danilo’s original recipe shows how to make this (5 hrs in the oven), but as I already had some in the store cupboard, I used that instead . Careful if buying, you don’t get any of the sweetened powders (there are several on the market aimed at smoothies) - this one from Whole Foods on line is good.

Mosto Cotto: Appreciate that cooked grape must is probably not in everyone’s cupboards, but I happened to have an unopened jar of Cognà al Nebbiolo from my last jaunt to the Langhe region of Piemonte (it’s also known as cugnà) . Thick and sticky, and utterly delicious on almost everything - indeed the serving suggestions including “perfect on a handful of fresh snow”!) . For purposes of this recipe, you could replace it with membrillo or fruit chutney, adding in a splash of good balsamic vinegar.

And finally a word on my risotto spoon. No idea if it helps the risotto at all, and can imagine many an Italian Nonna laughing at the credulity of being persuaded into buying such a thing - but I do love a wooden spoon, and the hole in the middle is supposed to help not break up the grains of rice. Much as I love mine, feel it is entirely optional!

Wine

The earthiness of the beetroot powder, the citrus kick of the goats cheese, the acidity of the Prosecco and the salty creaminess of the pecorino - lots of flavours to balance in the glass. So opted for a Langhe Arneis from Roberto Sarotto in Piemonte. Arneis is a glorious indigenous white variety, its name in dialect means “little rascal”. Lovely notes of white flowers, but with herbal notes of sage and importantly, great texture, slightly waxy, which married very happily with all the tastes within the risotto. Don’t serve too cold, to let the aromas come out.

In addition to as my well documented love of wine & food, I also have a passion for rugby (watching not playing!). Indeed, the idea for my company name some eleven years ago - and the registration of it at Company House - took place in the car park / fan village at Twickenham (at the insistence of an Irish friend, whose Guinness consumption at that point was rather, and rightly so, enthusiastic).

But each year these three passions collide - yes of course, it’s Rugby Six Nations Championship time, and that in my house means half time cheese boards, to honour each team’s country. If you’re not a fan of the oval ball, please don’t wander off, bear with me, as the cheeses below are great to discover, eat, repeat regardless if Antoine Dupont is on the screen or not.

So todays post gives you time to pop in & pick up or order on line for delivery ahead of next weekend’s matches - or simply get ahead on your weekend, rugby free, cheese delectations! If you love washed rind, oozy ripe blues, classic crumbly, smoked or something just a bit different - dive into the lists below. It is incredibly hard to narrow it down to just six cheeses produced in each country, but I have chosen a variety of styles for a balanced board featuring different styles - the uniting factor is that they are all delicious .

For the home nations choices, we are so lucky in the UK to have some fabulous independent Cheese Makers - many of whom have on line shops. A great way to order a wide selection from one source, do try one of the admirable independent Cheesemongers listed below (all offer UK delivery - apologies to any readers not in the UK but if you are in the States, check out Formaggio Kitchen for a great selection of European Cheeses including some of these chosen). Cheeses mentioned are only a small selection to inspire - each one has a link direct to its product page, which gives cheese style, milk type and a description. And before any of my Welsh friends complain about being last below, it’s not a nod to this years Wooden Spoon, simply listed alphabetically!

England

Lincolnshire Poacher - Mature Sparkenhoe Red Leicester

Yorkshire Pecorino Fresco - Baron Bigod - St Cera - Beenleigh Blue

All available from Neal Yard Dairy

France

Saint Marcellin - Mimolette Extra Vieille - 24 Month Old Comte

Napolean - Langres - Regalis

All available from La Fromagerie

Ireland

Carlow Sheep - Cais Na Tire - Mount Leinster - Sobhriste

Smoked Drumlin - Young Buck

All available from Mike’s Fancy Cheese

Italy

Pecorino Rosso - Testun a Barolo - Blu in vinaccia - Rosemary Roccolino

Whisky Toma - Taleggio di Capra

All available from Vallebona

Scotland

Ayrshire Dunlop - Minger - Aran Oak Smoked

Corra Linn - Lanark Blue - Bonnet

All available from George Mewes

Wales

Thelma Caerffili - Hafod Cheddar - Golden Cenarth

Teifi Seaweed - Angiddy - Trefaldwyn Blue

All available from The Welsh Cheese Company

(NB if you just do one cheeseboard, with one from each country, Neals Yard stocks cheese from four of the six teams so a good place to start)

Debates can rage amongst cheese lovers, if one should have bread or biscuits with cheese (or simply top a slice of ripe pear with your cheese if you’ve been sadly told to go low carb!) . To me it depends on the cheese, though my OH looks askance at me if offered anything other than a classic Cream cracker (must be Jacobs!). I think a fairly neutral taste to let the cheese sing, such as water crackers but Peters Yard Sourdough Crackers are great texture as well.

If you try any of the above cheese, I’d love to hear from you and see what you think. Happy Eating!

PS - Above is purely my choice of great cheeses, we don’t receive any payments from producers / companies mentioned. Photos are taken my myself.

PPS - Tickets to the Rugby World Cup 2027 go on sale on 18th February!

Yes am aware, if I were a farmer/ builder/ roofer (other outdoor trades are available), who had to leave home at 5am in the dark & under torrential rain, before even the promise of a Greggs Sausage Roll was on the horizon, then I may not be quite so blasé about the rain.

But even by my standards, this last month of downpours in England, has reached even my limits. So, instead am trying to focus on what is coming up - and researching the construction time of an Ark.

This week, my head is in Bordeaux preparation, as am off there on tour in March. It’ll be Château Life for a few days, staying in an elegant Château on the Left Bank, before moving back to the city to take in the Graves / Pessac -Leognan region. Each morning, I wake with that dangerous & often faulty state of good intentions of planning just a salad for lunch - but my desk is covered with menu options from some of Bordeaux most talented Chefs for me to chose what to pair with the great wines at each property. To give you an idea, how does terrine de volaille with a spicy home made apricot chutney tempt you or how about Entrecôte cooked over a griddle of old Cabernet Sauvignon vine clippings. Suddenly my salad (no matter how tempting I make it) - palls somewhat in appeal.

There will be a longer read post about Bordeaux later in the Spring, with lots more detail on wine appellations, interesting wine estates to visit (a mix of traditional and those who have some funky state of the art new wineries), multiple restaurant suggestions, but for now to distract you from the rain, a couple of my favourite places if you’re planning a quick city break in Bordeaux - maybe if you are lucky enough to be going to see the talented Louis Bielle -Biarrey play for Bordeaux Bègles in rugby this season.

Hotel:

Bordeaux is such a fascinating city, so much to do if you stay in the city centre, so why not chose a Four Star that enjoys a great central location. Hotel de Seze is perfectly situated to explore and close to main tram stops for you to easily explore more of the city.

Restaurant:

1925 is a bistro that buzzes with atmosphere and appreciation of good food. A traditional Bordelaise menu (with some interesting quirks here and there) - great wine list. If you like a bit of old school theatre, order the Crepes Suzette for flambéing at the table.

Wine Bar:

The Bar a Vin of the CIVB bar is situated on the ground floor of the Offices of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux. Great selection of wines by the glass that changes regularly (usually about 30 at at time on the list). Great way to taste different styles of Bordeaux

Things to do: You will undoubtedly read up about the seeing Miroir d’eau or the must visit Cite du Vin, both fine things, but Bordeaux has so much more to explore including part of the medieval Santiago de Compostela pilgrims route, or why not visit the Les Bassins des Lumières light displays in the WWII Submarine bunkers or even go Kayaking on the River Garonne to see the beautiful waterfront buildings from a different angle.

Food: Yes there is the famous entrecote, plus delicious duck & asparagus from nearby Les Landes - but look out for traditional lampreys (an acquired taste perhaps), sustainable Aquitaine Caviar from the Gironde estuary and of course the irresistible Canelé cakes.

A mere bagatelle to point you to point you in the right direction for a brief weekend!

Cindy-Marie

PS I receive no payment for content from producers or companies mentioned, all elements of suggestions are made purely from my own enjoyable visits! Pictures all taken my myself on wine wanderings

Come every January, its time to welcome the annual grumble by my OH, that his birthday languishes in the dark, grey, often wet, days at the start of the year. Oh the endless discussions of where to escape for a celebration. Past jaunts have included Berlin - fascinating city, surprisingly great food. Best memory: hours spent swimming in rooftop indoor pool watching the snow thickly fall outside. Oddest memory: Waiting for the hotel lift, doors open and out walked (alone) a Great Dane, who nonchalantly headed to the bar!

This year, bags packed (leaving room for the foodie goodie haul to bring back!) caught afternoon Eurostar from London to Paris. Time for a late dinner at the wonderfully welcoming, always bustling neighbourhood Bistro that is Au Vieux Comptoir in the 1st arrondissement. My frequent compulsion to have snails when arrive in France kicked in - not sure why. Just give me a vat of bubbling, molten butter laced with enough garlic to fell a vampire, flecked with zingy parsley and a traditional baguette to dunk, and not sure I’d miss the escargots! But they did go rather well with a glass of Menetou Salon Morogues. Followed by delicious onglet (cooked blue) which was a fabulous foil to a bottle of Gevrey Chambertin Domaine Trappet, 2022 - all bright, fresh nervy red fruit & linear purity. The wine list is tempting and after London, decently & fairly priced. Star of the show was perhaps the perfect Paris Brest (though there may have been Armagnac later - a necessary digestif!)

Hopping on a train at Montparnasse next morning, heading for the capital of Burgundy - Dijon. Known to many as the culinary heartland of France, with Dijon itself famous for mustard in all its guises, cassis and gingerbread. The historical centre, dotted with half timbered buildings leads to the Place de la Liberation, an elegant semi circle of classical limestone architecture (designed by same chap as Versailles). Eminently strollable, which makes Dijon a lovely place to meander without a map, and walk off any viennoiserie that may have ambushed you from the plethora of boulangeries (there is a free E-Bus that circulates if your feet protest!) - or follow the Owl Trail of brass plaques, named after Dijon’s mascot, who is carved into the wall of the Notre Dame church

Food markets are a clarion call to me, wherever I find myself in the world, but oh the frustration when staying in a hotel (fond though I am of a bed with crisp linen sheets, a barman who wields a mean Martini and a super helpful Concierge called Giuseppe) . That “look but can’t buy” paradox. So this year as his birthday celebration, we rented an apartment at the Hotel des Ducs, brilliantly located behind the Musée des Beaux-Arts, and vitally just 5 mins walk from the main food market. Named after Burgundy Wine Appellations, our apartment was Pommard, with a small terrace and crucially, a well equipped kitchen (not just a microwave and sad sole hob as often is the case).

The Mission: Les Halles Food Market! A classical Eiffel inspired design, built in 1873, and home to stalls heaving with everything from Langoustines to Jambon Persillé. Each day started with our circling the stalls, spying out the best saucisson or the most perfectly aged cheese. Saturday was spectacular, not only the four pavilions of the metal structured covered market bursting with produce, but stands filling the streets outside, with huge sunny pom-pom bunches of mimosa vying for attention with the Cous Cous & Tagine take away stall wafting aromas of cumin & ginger. Shoe shopping leaves me cold, but put me in front of a stall piled high with generous bunches of rosemary, sage, parsley & basil and watch me swoon.

Weaving our way between mesdames of a certain age, whose focus was absolute and whose wheeled shopping trollies as lethal as Ben Hur, a quick stroll to see what was best, which gave way to an essential glass of Viré Clessé at the market bar. Scribbling menu ideas on a back of one of their paper napkins, and back to the serious shopping. Some of the results included

Scallops, opened back at the apartment, simply pan fried with the coral.

Monkfish tail (marinated in lemon zest & EVOO, roasted in Bordier Seaweed Butter, topped with salsa of black olive & celery - including all the flourish of celery leaves!)

Baby lamb chops (marinated with rosemary & garlic, served with puy lentils in a Fallot Dijon Mustard creamy sauce)

Plus a cheese haul to befit any self respecting turophile from Au Gas Normand. Naturally a seasonal Vacherin Mont d’Or that was baked whole, but also morbier, epoisses, aged mimolette……. Plus two Bordier butters - one dotted with seaweed and a large wedge of buttercup yellow demi-sel (that butter alone is a good enough reason to move to France!)

Although technically a holiday, as the vineyards of Burgundy are just a short hop away (20 mins by train), it would have been rude not to have called in. A fabulous tasting at Domaine Jean Noel Gagnard in Chassagne Montrachet, whose range of wines tasted, showed the diverse terroir across their 12.5 ha of vines (favourite on the day Les Chenevottes Premier Cru). After a hard mornings tasting (!) , time for a well deserved lunch at the Caves de Madeleine in Beaune. A no nonsense short set menu at lunchtimes (three courses, two choices on each), and great value, which meant of course I could play around more with their excellently chosen wine list. The inevitable but irresistible gougère to start, a warming & comforting aerated chicken soup, and to follow Morteau Saucisse (smoked sausage from Franche-Comté region) - all of which was happily washed down with a bottle of Charmes Chambertin Domaine Arlaud 2021. A chocolate interpretation of íles flottante was worthy of the reinvention.

Back in Dijon, time to visit the International City of Gastronomy & Wine. Fascinating expo, v informative (more on that later ) - but was super impressed with the wine shop. A stunning selection and at fair prices (not something one can say often in Burgundy these days) - not just from their own region, but cherry picked most interesting of the rest of France and a valid selection from NZ, Spain, England and beyond….

But what about the Polar Bear I hear you ask? Born in Burgundy, the Sculptor Francois Pompon, was a student of Rodin, and created the original life-size sculpture of the L’ours Blanc in 1922. Today, the replica stands in the Jardin Darcy in the centre of Dijon. (Though if Polar Bears are not quite your thing, en-route is the original Maille mustard shop not to mention Palais des Thes with over 200 varieties of tea to tempt (I was swayed by five types to take home - including one grown in Brittany!)

Cooking is wonderful relaxation for me, so Dijon was a fabulous option to take advantage of great fresh market produce and have time to cook - with the odd glass of Burgundy in hand.

(All posts are self funded, NOT paid content - so are my views & opinions entirely - thank you for reading - comments are welcomed and do please share)