• The Leadville 100 and the perfect sandwich

• Currently Consuming

• Pan Bagnat recipe. The focaccia sandwich that tastes better the longer it sits.

Dear Pizza Tourists,

I suppose if you were running a marathon or training for a race, this would be the perfect meal for you. It’s incredibly nourishing and refreshing.

We have friends that are helping another friend run the Leadville 100 this weekend. For those unfamiliar, it’s an ultra marathon (100 miles) race above 10,000 feet in Colorado. Woof.

Friends play a crucial role in these races and serve as physical pacers that help the marathoners safely finish the race. And while it may not be the full 100 miles, it’s still quite a feat to be running even a portion of this challenge. I wish I could send them all this sandwich.

I love how Colorado culture clashes healthy challenges mixed with indulgence like a cold beer or a big solid sandwich.

But even if you hate running. Maybe you’re a hiker, enjoy swimming at leisure, or take long walks in the neighborhood… I encourage you to pair this sandwich with an activity. It’s giving Salad Pizza Detox vibes, but in a focaccia sandwich. Take it to the beach. Eat it over the sink. Save it for after your next run. It tastes better the longer it sits.

CURRENTLY CONSUMING:

• Musso & Frank’s - My first time visiting this iconic 100-year-old Italian American restaurant. I wouldn’t skip the chicken parm. And if you are into martinis, they customize them to your liking. Served in pretty glasses.

• Re-reading Born to Run and ’s The Half Marathoner newsletter. If you are getting into marathon season, or just the desire to start a running routine, I recommend the following to help you get started. Anyone can be a runner.

• Listening to the Vital Farms episode on How I Built This. I was so impressed by their Social Media team who immediately reached out when I posted this Pan Bagnat video. They asked if I was home and immediately sent an Instacart with 3 dozen eggs and bouquet of roses. Nice touch. Especially for someone who adores eggs and flowers. But who doesn’t?

• Little Dom’s - Another Italian American restaurant that has a cult following. This place is definitely more vibes than quality BUT the Blueberry ricotta pancakes were so very delicious. Who woulda thought pancakes at an Italian restaurant would be so good?

• As someone obsessed with caffeine and anxiety, I’m trying to slow my adrenals and hydrate myself with this delicious herbal tea instead. I like the chamomile and tumeric-ginger.

  

My obsession with the South of France seems to be becoming a series. So in case you missed a few other guides and recipes….

PAN BAGNAT RECIPE

Pan Bagnat translates to “bathed bread” in French. It’s traditionally made with a rustic bread that can absorb the juices of the sandwich ingredients. There’s a little kiosque outside the farmers market in Nice, called Kiosque Tin Tin. It’s quite the operation. Some locals in Nice may tell you that Pan Bagnat is a tourist sandwich. And while this may be considered an insult, as Pizza Tourist, I take it as a compliment.

Good fats, quality protein, a pile of fresh vegetables, with a simple red wine vinegar and olive oil dressing.

I’m putting my own Lupa Cotta twist on it by making it with my focaccia.

• Focaccia or hearty baguette

• 1-2 Soft boiled eggs (per sandwich)

Read more

Happy Sunday Pizza Tourists,

What are you making for dinner tonight? I’m making this pistachio pesto. It’s the perfect Sunday ‘summer’ sauce to enhance a roasted vegetable, homemade pasta, and of course…pizza.

My catering clients often ask what the crowd pleasers are at a pizza party. And two that I frequently recommend both have this pesto. So today I’m sending you home with three recipes; mortadella & pistachio pizza, courgette pizza, and my go-to pistachio pesto.

In Today’s Issue:

• What I’m currently consuming

• Pistachio Pesto recipe

• Courgette pizza with pistachio pesto

• Mortadella and pistachio pizza

CURRENTLY CONSUMING:

• I’m watching Furious with Emmy Rossum on Hulu. A great show about a female serial killer. It feels Killing Eve-esque.

• Listening to Fame Sick by .

• I brought this dessert to a dinner party last night. And also ate it for breakfast this morning. So easy to whip up with ingredients from your local farmers market.

• I’ve been craving a Zuni Café roasted chicken and a giant plate of french fries. It’s been a minute since I’ve taken a trip to San Francisco so I’ll be mentally escaping through this Chef-Driven Guide to SF.

• On the hunt for new bed sheets. Have my eyes on these linen ones that are on sale, these romantic ones in pink clay, or these striped ones that feel very back-to-school.

• Put those jammy figs you’ve been seeing at the Farmers Market on a focaccia.

• Lastly, here is the dough recipe you can use for the the pizzas in this newsletter

PISTACHIO PESTO RECIPE

A true staple in my Lupa Cotta kitchen. In this recipe I use a food processor but it can also be done with a mortar & pestle…If you want to strengthen those Nonna muscles. While a blender is much easier, I do think I tastes better when you grind everything by hand. But no judgement. Whatever you decide.

• 2 garlic cloves

• 1 tablespoon pistachios

Read more

Greetings Pizza Tourists!

I’m giving myself a substack writing challenge to write, organize, EDIT, and publish this substack within one hour. So let’s go. And please let me know if you absolutely hate this or kind of like the rawness of it?

In Today’s Newsletter:

• A one hour writing challenge

• Beach pasta recipe from my grandmother’s beach house

• Kitchen remodel

• The grocery list and tools that saved me

Read more

Dear Pizza Tourists,

Happy August! Last week we traveled to the East Coast for a special Centenarion’s birthday. The big bash was held along the border of Delaware, just outside of Philly. We stayed late into the summer night; drinking beers and munching on classic cheese & pepperoni pizzas from Nick’s Pizza Parlor.

Legend has it, that back in the day Frank Sinatra smooched this little 100 year old lady on the lips. Betty-Anne (my husband’s Aunt) hired a Frank Sinatra impersonator to perform, tux and all. There was even a little kiss at the end of his act. Luck be a lady!

In Today’s Issue:

• The most underestimated hire at your party

• Batch cocktail

• Pizza Guide to Philly

• …and other Philly places

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The Underestimated Hire at your party

If you are throwing a big party and deciding where to allocate budget (in this economy), your most underestimated hire is a bartender / busser. They don’t need to be a mixologist (unless the budget permits). Their duties are simple: show up put-together (give instruction for collard shirt if necessary), pour the wine, tidy up trash from tables, and do any end-of-the-night dish.

Before the party starts, I recommend that YOU (or a trusted family member) buys all the booze. Extra credit if it’s from a place that allows returns. Last week, we filled a beverage dispenser with ice and made a big batch of Aperol Spritz. This allowed for quality control (yes it’s possible to f*&K up an Aperol Spritz) and a good flow system for the bartender.

Here are some beverage dispensers I found:

• speckled

• funky shaped

• heirloom silver

• affordable

• pitcher

What are your favorite batch cocktails to make?

Leave a comment

I <3 PHILLY

I’ve worked on projects in Philly, closed down Irish pubs in Philly, and eaten entirely too much (good food) in Philly. We love Philly!

Philadelphia was built like a European city in the 17th century (our cousins’ place was built in 1875, 10 years after slavery was abolished) with very walkable streets and classic architecture. The grid layout was designed to ensure order, easy waterfront access, and prevent overcrowding. Philly is undeniably a sports town and there’s a constant ‘collective effervescence’ in the air.

We always overeat — we have to. The carb culture is sensational and has an incredible collection of brick and mortar’s with culturally-diverse cuisine. Here are some places to save for your next trip…

PIZZA TOURIST GUIDE TO PHILADELPHIA:

• Charr - Fantastic restaurant by friend, Viraj Thomas. We ordered SO much food. But! My favorites were..

Read more

Dear Pizza Tourists,

If you are a gardener, you’ve probably seen the bright yellow flowers that bloom in a bush of summer squash. But have you ever cooked with them?

They are popular in Italian, Mexican, and Greek cooking but sometimes overlooked in other cultures. Which…is strange to me because summer squash is such an abundant crop?

In today’s recipe, the squash blossom becomes your delicate paintbrush. They are stuffed with ricotta (maybe an anchovy) then bathed in a light batter before being gently dropped in bubbling hot oil and sizzled into golden crisp perfection.

FUN FACT:

There are male and female squash blossoms. The male flower sits on one long stem. The female, has a baby zucchini attached. For this recipe, we are using the male flower so you can use the stem like a paint brush. And worry not, if you can only find the females, just carefully remove the baby zucchini (set aside for another use).

What do an Italian and Japanese Chef have in common?

The art of frying!

The first time I had stuffed squash blossoms, Fiori di Zucca Fritti, was at Felix Trattoria in Los Angeles. They arrived HOT with a perfectly crisp outside, and a warm, soft, gooey center. I was amazed at how something so delicate could be transformed into this fried art form, while simultaneously feeling so light on the palate.

Years later, I asked Chef Evan Funke for tips on stuffing the blossoms. He kindly invited me into the kitchen at Felix. If you’ve seen any of the documentaries, his knowledge of Italian food feels endless, and he speaks with such determined depth and precision. That day, he let me watch the process and shared a few tricks.

For his Fiori Di Zucca, Chef Evan was inspired by the light, crispy flakiness of Chef Nobu Matsuhisa tempura. His version uses a mix of rice flour and all-purpose flour, with a splash of vodka in the batter. The vodka burns off more quickly during frying. A little trick with some interesting science behind it.

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PEP TALK

• Frying is an art. The right oil, the right temperature, and some basic safety precautions are all key to your success of the final product.

• You need a frying vessel. I like using the Fry Daddy which looks like a dingy bucket, but heats up fast and packs light. You can also use a heavy pot or a cast-iron skillet. Just be sure you can fill it with at least two inches of oil.

• If you have outdoor space, I recommend frying outside to avoid coating your kitchen with the smell of grease.

• Set up your station with all the tools you need.

• I use tempura batter for my flour mix. It’s just easier that way trust me.

• And that shirt you love? Put an apron on so you don’t get oil stains. Only speaking from my oil stained wardrobe.

• This is a fun recipe to repeat and become better at time and time again. So don’t be discouraged if your first round isn’t perfect. I promise it’s worth it, and your efforts will soon be requested at every party.

TOOLS YOU NEED

• Deep fryer, Fry Daddy, (or heavy pot)

• Thermapen or thermometer

• Paper towels

• 2 x sheet trays (or plates)

• Cooling rack (or one thats fit inside a sheet tray)

• Spider or Perforated spoon (a utensil with a long handle and a wire-mesh basket)

• Tongs

• Bowl (for batter)

• Scissors or chef tweezers (fish tweezers = extra credit)

• Pastry bag (or strong ziplock) Note: a spoon will work if you are anti-plastic

INGREDIENTS

• High-heat oil: peanut (watch for allergies), grapeseed, or Extra Virgin Olive oil

Read more

Dearest Pizza Tourists,

I’ve been gathering recipes for a cookbook proposal. This week I tested socca four different ways. I paired it with the most delicious umami tomato jam, Castelvetrano olives, honeycomb, and hunks of Parmigiano Reggiano. I used chickpea flour I found in a generic grocery store. It’s gluten-free by nature, and the umami tomato jam is so easy to whip up. A perfect weekend aperitivo to say the least!

In today’s newsletter:

• Socca, “the pizza of the French Riviera”, tested four ways

• Umami tomato jam recipe

• Two tremendous LA restaurants I visited this week

• Tomato products I am loving right now

SOCCA

As I mentioned in last week’s newsletter, The French Riviera has it’s own pizza, socca is from Nice. A pancake-like chickpea batter traditionally cooked on a hot copper or cast-iron pan in a wood-fired oven.

Chickpeas arrived in the South of France from workers and tradesmen crossing from Liguria, France’s Italian border. They thrive in the Mediterranean climate, which is why socca and its Italian cousin farinata are so embedded in the region.

It’s traditionally gluten-free and one of the most satisfying things to eat straight from the pan with flaky salt and a cold glass of whatever quenches your thirst.

Leave a comment

SOCCA (serves 2-4)

My favorite recipe I tested is adapted from ’s Drinking French.

• 1 cup (130g) chickpea flour

• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280ml) water

• ¾ tsp sea salt

• ⅛ tsp ground cumin

• 2½ tbsp olive oil, divided

• Freshly ground black pepper, flaky salt, and olive oil to finish

Mix together the flour, water, salt, cumin, and 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil. Cover and let the batter rest at room temperature for at least 2 hours.

TESTING TESTING TESTING

Notes:

• Give the batter enough time to hydrate and ferment.

• Make sure the pan and oil are HOT.

• If you are going to turn this into a GF dough, bake the disc completely then top with ingredients. I would go light on high-moisture ingredients that will soften the base. You could also top it after with my tomato jam and fresh cheese.

Umami Tomato Jam Recipe

I picked up some sun-dried tomatoes at a farmers market in the Côte d’Azur. I always gravitate towards these as a souvenir or edible “trinket”. Buy some quality ones from an artisan bodega or search your local farmers market.

• 1 cup quality sun-dried tomatoes

Read more

Dear Pizza Tourists,

At noon in Nice you’ll hear the sound of a cannon go off every day. In the 19th century, Sir Thomas Coventry, a Scottish Lord, would spend his winters on the French Riviera with his wife. They say she was a social woman, who would go for morning walks and get distracted at the local markets speaking with friends. Her husband didn’t want to dine alone, so he financed a cannon to go off every day at noon to remind her to come home for lunch. Today, the city of Nice sets off a giant firecracker in lieu of the cannon, reminding the local Niçoise that it’s time for lunch.

In Today’s Newsletter:

• Pizza on the French Riviera

• A bucket list for your next trip

• A chef-driven guide to some of my favorite spots

• A review of three destination hotels

• What I’m reading…

Pizza in the French Riviera

It comes in the form of socca and pissaladière. Socca is a chickpea pancake fried in olive oil. It’s served torn up, with flakey salt. In Italy it’s known as farinata, in Marseille panisse. And of course everyone is passionate about where it came from first.

You may have noticed that I am obsessed with Pissadalière. Caramelized onions, anchovies, Niçoise olives, and thyme on a flat bread. To me – it’s kind of like the Margherita. You’ll find them at boulangeries and farmers market stands all along the South of France. Everyone’s got a different take on the dough.

NICE

Nice is nice ;) You shouldn’t skip Nice. Like any port town, it can be dirty, there can be petty crime, but it’s so internationally diverse, holds a passion for Provençal cooking, and the restaurants are amazing. The color of the pastel buildings against the blue sky fill your heart with peace.

The French Riviera Bucket List

1. Eat socca, a chickpea pancake that is said to be the “pizza” of Nice.

2. Eat pissaladière, a caramelized onion tart/pizza.

3. Have a glass of wine on a cafe terrace (pick a seat outside the restaurant with the best people watching view).

4. Try tapenades from a local market. With a crusty baguette!

5. Eat Salade Niçoise. The famous Niçoise salad holds culinary governance from locals on how it’s prepared.

6. Eat Pan Bagnat – translates to “bathed bread”. It’s basically a Salad Niçoise in a sandwich with red wine vinegar that soaks in a hearty bread. A perfect beach sandwich?

7. Have a picnic with what you find at the local farmers market. Beach, road-side river, in your hotel room!

8. Eat barbajuan - stuffed, fried ravioli

9. Find a croissant from a boulangerie not on your list. You don’t need to stand in line for a croissant.

10. Play pétanque in the park. Preferably with old men. Or at least sit on a bench (without your phone) and watch a game.

11. Stay in a random French village with a pool

12. Eat a long Seafood lunch with a glass of Provençal rosé

13. Have a late night out dancing at a discothèque. Make new dance floor friends.

My favorites of Nice

• Farmers Markets at LE MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS and LE MARCHÉ DE LA LIBÉRATION.

• Pan Bagnat at KIOSQUE TIN TIN. Where the locals get sandwiches after the market.

Read more

Dearest Pizza Tourists,

Happy Independence Day! I hope your day is soon filled with the smell of charcoal, cold beer, and sunscreen.

Last weekend we went to a World Cup game at SoFi Stadium. It was the Turkey vs. USA match. Undeniably, a great game. We snacked on hot dogs, a mixed candy salad, and washed it all down with Japanese Asahi tall boy beers. Smiles were ear to ear. It felt as though our lost patriotism and world camaraderie had been found. Everyone was joyous.

My grandmother and I used to watch the FIFA World Cup together in her bed, giggling and debating who was the most attractive footballer. The FIFA pride feels stronger this year. It’s been so nice making small talk with strangers about the latest game or the strongest underdog team. Community has filled the country.

Read more

Dearest Pizza Tourists,

Red chilies hanging in long strands from the sides of adobe buildings. A spicy margarita fireside among the pines. A cedar sauna that forces meditation at 7,000 feet. The sound of a freight train passing through at dusk. Eating leftover queso over the sink at midnight at a graduation party. The sheer spectacle of the most famous gas station in Texas. These are memories from my American road trip last month….

In today’s issue:

• Roadtrip-essentials

• A route 66 boutique motel review

• Where to eat, shop, stay in Santa Fe

• A Buc-ee’s field guide in Texas

• How I like to cook on the road

Roadtrip-essentials:

• A good hat. I like this baseball cap. Or for a wider brim, this one and this one.

• For those that like to limit their water intake so there are less bathroom stops…rehydrate yourself with some electrolytes. These ones are sugar-free.

• Slides. For getting in and out of the car without untying anything. Along with these socks. For long hours sitting.

• Good sunscreen. Always a necessity. You can get sun damage through car windows. Don’t forget to reapply.

• Hand-sanitizer wipes. These ones are compostable and come with fun scents. Perfect for cleaning up that sticky bbq sauce off your fingers.

• Cowboy boots. You will want them. It’s an American road trip after all!

• For comfortable sweats meets fashion. These sneakily elevate your look at lunch stops, while remaining to be very comfortable.

• A cooler for snacks & beverages and a reusable water container that fits in your cup holder.

• My favorite tool to cook fabulous steaks in hotel parking lots

Note — some links curated in this issue are affiliate links. If you make a purchase I may earn a small commission. So grazie!

Stay: High Country Motor Lodge — Flagstaff, AZ

High Country Motor Lodge, sits directly on Route 66. A complete reimagining of a classic roadside motel, thoughtfully designed by the Marc & Rose Hospitality group. We were welcomed with a charcuterie board and margarita cocktails, which after a long day of driving felt like a small miracle. Baloo made a beeline for the well-groomed grass, where he parked himself until dinner.

Their portfolio of hotels also includes the luxurious Casa Loma in Laguna Beach. Years ago we produced a Pizza Concierge event at their grand opening. They did an interactive play for guests in every room. I’ve been admiring their other properties for years since, so I was delighted to discover they had an affordable boutique motel in Flagstaff.

With a deep navy exterior, retro tape decks with mixtapes in the rooms, a Nordic Spa with private cedar saunas, and a fabulous cocktail bar, it feels nostalgic, and caters to your summer travel needs. It has small rooms to cottages, a big pool for warmer months, and a general store filled with cool merch and curated snacks. It’s a particularly good meeting point for groups heading out on a Grand Canyon river rafting trip (you can sign , allowing enough space and activities for everyone.

We woke up early the next morning to a lobby piled high with waterproof rafting bags and the bustling excitement of everyone going on their respective adventures.

For a discounted stay at HCML you can use this link here.

Where to eat, shop, stay in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe is beaming with American Southwest culture, all in one small town. We were there for roughly 12 hours, but got to hit some of the essentials.

• Dinner: La Choza – Old school New Mexican-style dinner. I recommend the Carne adobada plate with chile rellenos and a side of savory sopapillas (which are must). A little bit of everything.

• Breakfast at Iconik Coffee: Get the Guatemalan breakfast. Good coffee.

• Shopping: Vintage on Canyon, La Boheme, Kitchenality

• Art Galleries: Nuart, or wander down Canyon Road and see what draws you in.

• Stay: El Rey Court – has a swim club, dog-friendly, cute mezcal bar (La Reina), and a pizza pop-up (Tender Fire Pizza) on Sundays.

AMERICAN FOOD MAXIMALISM

Field Guide: Buc-ee’s, Terrell TX

If you have never been to a Buc-ee’s, understand that it is not a gas station. It is not a convenience store. It is an empire. A 74,000 square foot monument to American road trip culture with a cartoon beaver mascot, clean bathrooms, and fresh brisket being carved on the spot. American food maximalism at its finest.

Hot take: I would compare its in-house culture of fresh and store bought food items to the the tiny コンビニ (Japanese 7-Eleven convenience stores in Japan). Worth spending real time in both environments to savor the differences. What you must get? EVERYTHING. We are here to try things.

In Buc-ee’s case, my personal must-trys:

• Beaver Nuggets — crunchy corn puffs coated in caramel, slightly addictive, excellent gift

• Hot BBQ brisket sandwich — carved fresh, eat it immediately, in the parking lot

• Fruity Pebbles Rice Crispy Treat — do not question it. An opportunity to double down on sugar and bring your memories of when it was still acceptable to eat all the red dye #40 in the sugary cereal.

Lastly, like every brick & mortar, all the Buc-ee’s are different. Here is a good location rating system I found on reddit, wherever you may be going in Texas.

Green Chili Con Queso

We were in Texas for a family graduation party. My sister-in-law has been making queso for years, inspired by a Tex-Mex restaurant from Kansas City. We made a big batch and kept it warm in a slow cooker. As the party went late, we brought the leftovers back out at midnight. While hers is secret, I found a good online recipe here. The perfect dip for your World Cup watch party.

Pizza On The Road:

• Pizzicletta, Flagstaff

• Tender Fire Kitchen, Santa Fe

• Pizza made by you!

How I Like To Cook on Roadtrips

My favorite way to cook on the road is with a portable oven. Whether you’re in the California Sierras, the mountains of Colorado, or deep in canyon country – I’ve brought one on all three. Great for pizza, steaks, freshly caught fish, vegetables, whatever you feel like making when you get there.

With experience using all the ovens, I’d bring the Gozney Tread. It packs light, heats up fast, and the top handles make packing in and out easy. Dare I say, a great Father’s Day gift.

And that’s a wrap! Thank you for reading this post. Please like, subscribe, comment below. It helps Pizza Tourist grow! Check out our instagram @lupacotta.

Xx, Ines

Welcome to the Pizza Tourist Index!

If you’re new here, I’m Ines, a professional Pizzaiola, culinary consultant, and lifelong food traveler based in Los Angeles.

Here you’ll find every recipe, travel guide and reflective essays organized by category.

I’ll pin ( and continue to update) this to the Pizza Tourist homepage so every time you stop by, you can have a browse! Thanks for reading.

Xx, Ines

RECIPES

FOUNDATION

• Pantry 101

• Pizza Dough

• Focaccia

BREAKFAST

• Sausage Roll

SNACKS & SIDES

• Fiori di Zucca Fritti (Fried squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta)

• Homemade Ranch Dressing (Non-mayo based. Two versions.)

• Roman-Style Gnocchi

• Sourdough Discard Crackers

PIZZA inspired by the seasons and our travels

• Clam Pizza

• Courgette & Comtè Pizza

• Corn and Crispy Spam Pizza

• Huitlacoche & Mushroom Pizza

• Kabocha and Rosemary Pizza

• Mortadella Panuozzo

• Persimmon and Hazelnut Pizza with Chicories

• Pizza Portafoglio

• Spicy Sausage Pizza

FOCACCIA

• Dulce Focaccia

• Everything Seasoned Focaccia

• Fig Jam and Caramelized Onion Focaccia

• Purple Focaccia

PROTEINS

• Crispy Fish and Salad with Focaccia Croutons

DESSERT

• Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp

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TRAVEL GUIDES

• American Road Trip Pizza Boulder, Denver, Telluride to Flagstaff.

• Aspen Bougie ski town favorites.

• CDMX Food, bakeries, bars, and shopping in Mexico City.

• Los Angeles Pizza crawl through the city.

• Marseille Coffee, pizza, restaurants, and street food.

• Naples Favorite pizza stops in the motherland.

• Paris Coffee, restaurants, and street food.

• Pizza in Paris for when you’re craving pizza in the city of love.

• Sacramento A tourist guide to the City of Trees and California’s State Capital.

• San Diego Pizza in Dana Point and Southern San Diego.

• San Francisco Favorite martini watering holes, bakeries, wine bars, pizza places, and more.

• Tokyo Pizza, sushi, omelet rice, Izakaya spots, thrift and kitchen shopping, coffee shops.

GIFT GUIDES

• The Pepper Mill Gift Guide

INTERVIEWS

• Carolina Aboumrad Entrepreneur behind Huitla, bringing Mexican huitlacoche to the fine dining world.

• Ariel Arce NYC restaurateur and champagne sommelier behind Tokyo Record Bar, Pearl Box, Roscioli NYC, and Big Pearl Caviar.

• Hailey Arnold Outdoor educator and entrepreneur behind The Coffee Cowboy.

• Michael Glaser Hollywood Location Manager of One Battle After Another. Also my husband.

• Zoë Komarin Chef and creator behind Zoe Food Party, known for inventive, vegetable-forward cooking.

• Camilla Marcus Chef, author, and founder of west~bourne, a regenerative pantry brand.

• Sam Rogers Produce liaison, gardener, and the person who will teach you how to shop a farmers market properly.

• Alexandra Stafford Yale grad turned food blogger and NYT bestselling author of Pizza Night and Bread Toast Crumbs.

• Karla Subero Pittol Chef and owner of Chainsaw, LA. Venezuelan-born Artist, cooking with fire.

• Rose Wilde Former human rights lawyer turned pastry chef. Owner of Red Bread, Los Angeles.

REFLECTIONS

• Cooking at Ballerina Farm’s Holiday Party Behind the scenes of a very cold and beautiful evening.

• Growing Up in Japan Revisiting old familiar places and the memories they hold.

• Los Angeles During the Fires A reflection on community, loss, and resilience.

• Losing Your Identity When Following Your Dreams An honest reflection on being an entrepreneur.

• Making Pizza in Champagne, France With sommeliers and Champenoise in the French countryside.

• Monthly Musings from Mallorca A “month-in-the-life” reflection written from the Spanish island.

• Our Pop-Up Days at Dive Bars How it all started, back in 2019.

• Pizza School in Naples Attending pizza school in the motherland.

• Staging in Copenhagen What I learned apprenticing in Denmark in 2018.

• The Lupa Cotta Timeline A timeline of Lupa Cotta over the years. Featuring hustle, burnout, and everything in between.

• What We Ate at the River Cafe, London What we ate, and why it mattered.

• Working on Survivor On filming a television show and eating pizza with monkeys in the jungle.

Thanks for reading! A few ways to keep PIZZA TOURIST going:

Like this post or share it with someone you’d like to eat with. Upgrade to a paid subscription. Find me on Instagram @lupacotta . Book a Lupa Cotta private dinner for your next gathering. Shop my favorites things here. Partnership inquiries: wolfpack@lupacotta.com

Dearest Pizza Tourists,

I’m writing to you from the Delta Lounge at the JFK airport. We are on our way to France. It has me thinking about another trip that changed the way I cook.

In today’s issue:

• a reflection on staging in Copenhagen

• a few places I’d recommend on your next trip (including pizza)

• an in-season dessert recipe — strawberries or rhubarb crisp

Copenhagen, Circa May-June 2018

In 2018, I apprenticed with a restaurant group in Denmark. A chef friend had encouraged me to volunteer at Heartland Music festival. If I helped out in the kitchen, I'd likely be able to stage with the team back in Copenhagen. The food scene in CPH was very exciting at the time. And one of their restaurants, Baest was known for its strong pizza and charcuterie program.

The festival was to be held in the gardens of a Egeskov Castle, and LCD Soundsystem would be playing. I booked my flight and left on a pizza voyage.

I remember shaving white asparagus while listening to the chefs talk about perfecting porchetta, their fermentation projects, and foraging strange-sounding mushrooms in the forest. People from all over the world had come to work at these restaurants, all of them so uniquely talented. The cooks were competitive but had an encouraging, educational energy to them.

Read more

Dearest Pizza Tourists,

Charcoaled edges, imperfect shapes, bubbly cheese, a folded-over stromboli that successfully made it out of the oven. Oftentimes I find myself more attracted to the imperfect flatbreads of a novice kitchen than the perfectly round ones of an award-winning pizza champion.

We are beautifully flawed humans. Your rustic interpretations are unique works of impermanent art. The components of a pizza, the quality of the ingredients — are truly what matter most.

A perfectly round crust is just an interpretation. And remember…when in doubt, calzone it out.

In today’s issue:

• fresh dough available for pickup

• two crust dipper recipes with zero mayonnaise

• a few things worth buying for cooking, farmers market shopping, and al fresco dining

Dough Drop — Weekend of May 2 & 3

We’re doing a dough drop the weekend before Mother’s Day. Fresh, limited batches available for pickup in Santa Monica. We did our first dough drop with the Lady & Larder team back in 2020. If you’ve made pizza with our dough before, you know. If you haven’t — now is the time!

Make a pie for your mom. Make one for yourself. Make one at midnight and eat it standing over the sink.

This dough does a lot. It makes great pizza in both an outdoor and indoor oven, golden focaccia, fluffy donuts (stuffed with mortadella), and naan-like bread made in a skillet for lapping up curries. It’s a good one to have in your freezer and thaw in a pinch.

Pre-orders are first come, first served.

Avant-Garde Ranch Dressing

SIN MAYONESA would be my band name…if I played the drums. I hate mayonnaise. It’s a controversial thing to admit — but I’ve come a long way, occasionally enjoying a french fry and special sauce. Progress.

In the spirit of spring and strong opinions, here are two dressings that are great for a pizza sauce, crudité, spooned under patatas bravas, or simply as a good crust dipper.

Consider them your more sophisticated Avant-Garde ranch recipes.

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Dear Pizza Tourists,

Happy Spring! Are you surviving the hangover of Daylight saving?

The Oscars are upon us, which feels like the final act of awards season. A reminder that great masterpieces — in cinema, dining, art — are supported by a great deal of unseen work. What looks shiny and effortless often involves an entire crew, a Rubik’s cube of logistics, very little sleep, and sometimes painfully hard work.

The other weekend, I produced a Pizza Concierge event inspired by my client’s memories of Rodízio de Pizza, a Brazilian tradition where servers circulate continuously with fresh slices, offering guests a taste of everything throughout the night. We designed a hybrid format with a buffet station alongside tray-passed service. Guests could help themselves or wait for a hot slice to swing by.

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It made me wonder why more pizza restaurants in the United States don’t operate this way. Fresh slices keep appearing, guests discover new flavors, and anything that cools off feeds the kitchen staff. Nothing wasted.

This week’s newsletter is about another roaming profession: the life of a Location Manager.

IN TODAY’S ISSUE:

• A quick conversation with Michael Glaser, the Location Manager of the Oscar nominated film One Battle After Another. I am also married to him.

• Pizza Tourist Parts Unknown. The pizza stops in California discovered while filming the Oscar nom.

• Market produce + Caviar pizzas I’ve been recipe testing this month.

Pizza & Espresso for Breakfast

A conversation with Location Manager Michael Glaser

One Battle After Another is a film worth watching both for its cinematic ambition and its relevance to the current political moment. As a former film student, this is the kind of project that will be continuously referenced in film history.

Location Manager, Michael Glaser, and his team spent months on the road helping bring the film’s settings to life. Their work required community diplomacy, logistical endurance, and a constant search for places that could hold emotional weight on screen. He once described locations as a kind of subconscious character in a film.

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Dear Pizza Tourists,

I am in the middle of my jury duty sentence. It’s a three week trial. And as a self-employed pizza hustler, I tried my hardest to get out of it AND failed. While the jury process is tedious and frustrating, it does feel rather important (especially during unjust times) that non-biased civilians be part of the judicial system. So I remain, yours, a good civil servant.

Staying on theme, this weekend’s pizza and a movie is 12 Angry Men. A cinematic classic I used to watch in film school. Both the original (starring Henry Fonda) and the re-make (starring Jack Lemmon) are quite good. I mean check out the Rotten Tomatoes ratings! Put your phone down and pay attention.

Things I’d Love for Valentine’s Day

• earrings for a pizza night out

• this chunky plate for serving deliciousness

• a new mixer with a gorgeous wooden bowl

• these salad servers

• a sexy coffee maker and good coffee beans

• a nice wool beanie (even though it’s too hot in Cali)

• An apartment in Paris

Fig Jam & Caramelized Onion Focaccia

A recipe note.

This recipe is really quite simple, but the dough is best if you make it the day before. It’s a simple no-fuss focaccia. Controversial or not, I added a hunk of frozen gorgonzola. I like to save the awkward bits of leftover cheese from charcuterie boards. They become perfect upgrades for sauces, quiches, and in this case…focaccia.

Focaccia makes your house smell absolutely divine. Make this bread as a devoted love letter to yourself. For friends. Or. For someone you love. Serve it with a simply dressed arugula salad, a glass of red wine, chocolate for dessert. Sounds like a perfect Valentine’s Day to me. No reservations required.

I teach this dough in workshops. It also makes an excellent pan pizza.

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Happy February 1st, Pizza Tourists!

It feels like summer here in Los Angeles, even though I know it’s freezing for many of you on the East Coast. But honestly, I’m a little jealous of your snowy weather. The Grass is greener, or so they say.

This past month I celebrated my birthday, went skiing in Aspen, made salad pizza with friends, and spent time negotiating contracts for upcoming Pizza Concierge events.

In today’s newsletter, I’m sharing a Mortadella Panuozzo recipe, recapping collaborations with friends, and what I’ve been reading and watching. Here’s a quote from Derry Girls that’s been resonating with me lately.

MORTADELLA PANUOZZO

The panuozzo, often called a “pizza sandwich”, comes from Gragnano, a town between Naples and the Amalfi Coast. The panuozzo is often mistaken for a panini or calzone, but it’s its own thing: traditional Campanian street food made from pizza dough and stuffed while still hot.

Gragnano is also famous for dried pasta. In 1885, it became the first city in Campania to gain a direct rail connection to Naples, proof of its early importance in the pasta world! Next you’re shopping in an Italian deli, try to find some pasta from this region!

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Good Tidings Pizza Tourists!

Pizza & Espresso for Breakfast is an interview series that explores the philosophy of sprezzatura — the effortless charm and quiet struggles behind craft, entrepreneurship, and travel. Discussed among friends with whom we love to share a slice.

This month’s guest is SAM ROGERS, from Sam Loves the Market! Below you’ll find her guide on how to strategically shop at the farmers market.

But first a quick note…

This past week, I went to the LA Pizza Alliance held at LaSorted’s in Chinatown. The pizzerias of Southern California were to unite for one day and make pizza for those in need.

It started around this time last year as a response to the LA fires. Pizza makers coming together to feed displaced Angelenos. I was in a weird, tender place back then and wrote about it here….

Coming back this year felt different: Bigger. More grounded. North of 50 pizza makers showed up and there were two different shifts of people making each other’s dough, cutting, putting pizza in boxes, drinking beer, giving hugs.

I found my anchor spot by the wood-fired oven with my friends Aydan, Christian, and Thomas. David Turkell, who produced the event, ensured that we could “Pedro Pascal” it and he would hold my hand if I was feeling anxious (Pedro and I share social anxiety) – the “Crazy Bois” had my back. And you know…just knowing that was enough.

The pizza family is real. Yes, it can be competitive. Craft usually is. But underneath it all is a deep sense of care. I saw old friends. I made new ones. I left smelling like smoke, my face sunburned by the oven, and feeling steadier than when I arrived. That’s the thing about pizza. It gathers people.

And now — let’s move on to our lovely farmer liaison! Here’s a quote I pulled after asking her about the public perception that farmers markets are “too expensive.”

When I first met Sam Rogers at the farmers market, I squealed with excitement like for a friend I hadn’t seen in a long time. I already knew her name, having read about her in Bon Appétit, and it quickly became clear why. Sam is quietly responsible for some of the best produce moving through Los Angeles kitchens.

She has spent most of her adult life as a produce liaison, working closely with small family farms and thoughtfully matching them with chefs based on menus, dishes, and real kitchen needs. With a background in farming on both the East and West Coasts, she brings a rare combination of hands-on knowledge and intuition to her work.

Following Sam around the farmers market is a joy. She’ll stop abruptly, hand you something, and insist you try it. A fresh winter carrot that “loves the cold” and crumbles crisply in your mouth, the fresh and mineral-y Bloomsdale spinach that feels “oh so bouncy”, a peach variation (you’ve never heard of…or tasted) so fragrant and plump.

Farmers greet her with huge smiles and warmth. Sam is also a generous and insightful writer. If you’re a chef, or simply someone who wants to understand what quality produce really looks and tastes like, you can check out her Substack here.

I asked her a few questions….

INTERVIEW WITH SAM ROGERS:

Ines: If you could throw a dream pizza party, tell me about it…where would it be?

Sam: A farm on Orcas Island, Washington—right on the water—though, somehow, all my favorite Southern California farmers and ranchers have magically found their way there. There’s a DIY pit on the beach. I’m imagining full old school Chainsaw era– Karla’s aesthetic is my perfect dining space. Dough wife —Courtney Storer. Ines, your topping the pies with Leo (her son). Husband on grilling veg. Helen from Helen’s Wines is overflowing wine glasses. Meats from Peads and Barnett and Autonomy Farms. Sophia and Josh from Tutto are helping Max. Really relaxed, but fun– also theatrical but never precious. But also a little nautical?

Ines: I’m in…. Favorite travel tradition?

Sam: Antique markets—

Ines: Has travel ever changed the way you approach your work?

Sam: Of course. America—especially Southern California—has a very particular, and often polarizing, relationship with food. On one end, there’s the hyper-local, organic-label–obsessed crowd; on the other, the big-box, one-stop-shop devotees.

But in so many other countries and cultures, people are simply passionate about food and about making it together. It’s deeply ingrained. There’s a familial love for a tomato—or even an onion—that you don’t really find here, organic or not.

So the question becomes: how do we encourage that kind of love? That kind of perspective on food? Because neither of the polarized approaches we’ve adopted in the U.S. is really working.

Ines: You work closely with chefs, schools, and farmers. Is there a moment you see again and again…like when someone tastes a piece of produce and suddenly understands why seasonality or edible gardens matter?

Sam: It’s always in the moment when someone tries something that has been specially grown by a farmer who has been doing it for generations—grown in the perfect conditions for that variety. Take an avocado, for example. We all think we know what an avocado tastes like, but have you ever tried a Nabal avocado from Laura of J.J. Lone Daughter at peak season, at peak ripeness? Because it will change how you understand flavor.

My own switch to this world happened on a friend’s farm in upstate New York. I had been eating bagged arugula from who-knows-where my whole life. Then I tried my friend’s arugula, straight from the garden, and it completely changed the trajectory of my life.

I probably owe my son’s life to that fucking bite of arugula.

Ines: What is a cheese that describes your personality?

Sam: I eat so much effing goat cheese (shot out to Drakes.. The G.O.A.T). I want to pretend its something much more esoteric and interesting,, but I effing love chevre specifically— and I love flavored chevre. I crave it, I am it.

Ines: Let’s talk Sprezatura…What’s something you do that looks effortless to clients and friends, but actually takes a ton of work?

Sam: Relationships. So much of what I do is maintaining, building, and nurturing long-standing relationships with farmers, chefs, ranchers, and growers. These people have become family, which makes what they create that much more meaningful to me.

Many people assume this work is simply about understanding seasons, but it goes far deeper than that. There are microclimates, nuanced farming practices, and countless small details that shape how food is grown and how farmers and chefs become who they are. Knowing those details—and the people behind them—is the real work.

THE SAM ROGERS’ FARMERS MARKET METHOD:

1. Before you even leave the house, take inventory of what you already have “in stock.” Knowing what’s in your fridge and pantry helps you shop smarter and avoid doubling up on things you forgot you owned.

2. Set your budget. Stick to it. Farmers’ markets are often dismissed as “too expensive,” but the real issue is not having a plan. This limits overspending driven by excitement and prevents waste—while still leaving room for that basket of mulberries you’ve always wanted to try, or the cheese that quietly upgrades every breakfast. Give yourself a budget the same way you would at the grocery store. Because so much of the farmers’ market runs on cash—or Venmo or Cash App—it’s easy to lose track, lose focus, and overspend. Come in with a number. Make it work.

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Happy New Year, Tourists.

Let 2026 be the year we ease into our resolutions. I woke up this morning the same person I was yesterday. No dramatic transformations or jump-out-of-bed self-discoveries. But last night, I did finally take a stab at making sticky toffee pudding for dessert. I used my new soufflé ramekins that I bought at an antique store in Colorado. I will certainly be eating some cake later this afternoon. It’s got dates in it - how healthy!

In today’s newsletter:

• A seasonal pizza recipe

• Some pizza places I recently visited

• Making Salad Pizza Detox a lifestyle. Happy reading!

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Greetings Pizza Tourists,

Happy December 1st. Thanksgiving is wrapped and we are officially in the season of cheese plates and holiday leftovers. An entire refrigerator of possibilities. The real question is how to turn all of it into pizza without feeling unhinged?

Today I made a New Haven inspired pizza with leftover mashed potatoes, crispy Sunday bacon, garlic confit oil, low moisture mozzarella, and freshly chopped chives. I have never tried the famous New Haven pies, but something about them feels undoubtedly Italian-American. With their charred edges and imperfect symmetry, they are rustic, confident, and beautifully straightforward. A perfect food for me.

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Dearest Pizza Tourists,

This month, we’re making a Breakfast Sausage Roll. Perfect for a holiday treat, cozy mornings with family, or simply when you want something warm and carby straight from the oven. And you guessed it, we are using left-over pizza dough to make this recipe.

Last week I was in New York for a friend’s wedding. In true Pizza Tourist fashion, the trip turned into a blur of pizzerias, bakeries, and long walks across boroughs. Between a pajama-themed book launch, a few martinis, and a picnic in Prospect Park, I tried to squeeze in as many pizza stops as possible.

It’s wild to think it’s been a DECADE since I left New York for Los Angeles. Whenever I visit, I almost always stay in the same neighborhood where my BFF and I once lived. It feels both nostalgic and surreal watching it change over the years. Back then…ten years ago…I dreamed of being a film director (like many of us film students). And as a low-level production assistant I’d sprint between equipment rental houses with a flip phone and paper “Google Maps” printouts in hand, desperately asking New Yorkers if I was on the right street…or rather the right path. Smartphones weren’t fully normalized yet, and while ten years doesn’t seem that long ago, that time feels so far away.

While the target has shifted, the dreaming big is still in full pursuit. These days, those dreams belong to Lupa Cotta, a project that’s grown from pop-up to pizza kit, from private chef to culinary consultant. What began as a single oven and a few borrowed tables has become a Boutique Pizza Agency. We curate pizza-centric events with a network of pizza makers, pastry chefs, florists, and makers I deeply admire. From intimate dinners in Los Angeles to destination celebrations across the map, we help people bring their pizza dreams to life, start to finish. If that sounds like your kind of party, there’s a form waiting for you on our website.

RECIPE OF THE MONTH: Breakfast Sausage Roll

The perfect cozy weekend bake or post-fiesta cure. I was bi-coastal this past week and tried two (well three if you include mine) sausage rolls. First at Radio Bakery in Brooklyn, and just yesterday, I tried the sausage roll to debut soon at Petit Grain Boulangerie in Santa Monica. I recommend both. My recipe is made up of leftover pizza dough :) So bring out the carbs, bring out the sausage! It’s carb-loading season.

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Dear Pizza Tourists,

Fall is almost here. And while squash blossoms are usually a summer treasure (their peak runs June through October), you might still spot them at the market. If you do find them, I implore you to make them…. and if not, something to look forward to next summer. Today’s newsletter we’ll go over a recipe hack for ‘Fiori di Zucca’, my love for small bites before a meal, and the most recent Pizza Tourist exploration in Amsterdam.

In today’s newsletter:

• Philosophy: Let your favorite restaurant connect you to the next

• Fiori di Zucca Fritti. Stuffed squash blossoms, fried to order

• The vodka batter trick and why it works

• Pizza Tourist in Amsterdam — a review a pizza restaurant

• Special Amsterdam mentions

Let your favorite restaurant connect you to the next…

While I’ll always take a good recommendation or a chef-trusted list, I think the best part of traveling (and eating) is leaving room for a little self-discovery. Spontaneity is part of being a good tourist. So the next time you stumble on a dish, a restaurant, or even a single ingredient that brings you joy…study it. Who is the chef? What is the story of the place? Where did that ingredient come from? Let it guide you to the next stop on your tourist quest, down a path of sensory exploration and discovery.

Last year in Marseille, a bakery we loved ended up pointing us toward a pizza restaurant in Amsterdam on this trip. It was a bit off the beaten path, with a big wood-fire oven, minimalist furniture, some funky pop art, and plenty of natural wood. We went for lunch while it rained outside, but light poured into the open room. The pizza itself leaned more bready. They used a semolina-like flour from a local mill which almost looked whole grain and the flavor combinations were interesting. But the thing that blew us away wasn’t the pizza. It was the snacks. Sometimes I get more excited about the little bites at a restaurant rather than the main event. It’s often where the creativity and seasonality shines.

Evan Funke’s Anti Pasti

The first time I had stuffed squash blossoms, “fiori di zucca fritti” was at Felix, Evan Funke’s restaurant in Venice, CA. While the pizza and pasta at Felix are undeniable superstars, the snacks (antipasti) stole the show for me. They arrived at the table in such a simple presentation. Perfectly crisp on the outside, with a warm, soft, gooey center. I was amazed at how something so delicate could be transformed into a robust fried art form…while simultaneously feeling so light on the palate.

Years later, I asked Chef Evan for tips on stuffing the blossoms. He kindly invited me into the kitchen at Felix. If you’ve seen any of the documentaries, you know he’s a serious man–his knowledge of Italian food feels endless, and he speaks with such determined depth and precision. That day, he let me watch the process and shared a few tricks.

For his Fiori Di Zucca, Chef Evan was inspired by the light, crispy flakiness of Chef Nobu Matsuhisa tempura. His version uses a mix of rice flour and all-purpose flour, with a splash of vodka in the batter. The vodka burns off more quickly during frying. A little trick with some interesting science behind it.

Why use vodka in pie crusts, tempura, and Fiori Di Zucca?

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