I heard that announcement in my head for months before I heard it for real. When our plane landed in Heathrow Airport, we skipped London and went straight to the English countryside. "First chance we get, we're going," we kept telling each other. We said it so many times over the months that it started to feel like it wasn't going to happen.

It almost didn’t. It was only in our final week in the UK that we finally got there and heard that announcement for real. And I promise you, after months of almost, hearing it in person hit me in a way that no amount of anticipation could prepare me for.

But we only had 1 day to visit London, and if that’s your case too, here’s the full itinerary with exactly what we did.

1. Got a train to London Bridge

We started our day at Tulse Hill Station. There we learned that the famous London subway, officially called the Underground but more known as "the tube," isn't the only type of train.

London actually has 5 major rail systems, and during our visit we experienced two of them: the Underground, which runs within the city, and National Rail, which runs within London's metropolitan area as well as long distance intercity throughout the UK.

After about 20 mins we arrived at London Bridge Station. And I have to tell you: I was so excited seeing that name written up the wall! We walked all the way toward the bridge we all recognize instantly from movies, postcards and pictures.

But did you know that iconic bridge isn’t actually London Bridge? Yes, there is a bridge with that name nearby, but the one you're probably thinking about is actually called Tower Bridge.

The walk there was easy and oh, so exciting! We could see the bridge framed at the very end of the corridor between tall modern buildings, the glass and metal towers on either side catching the light, like even the city knew exactly where we were headed… The kind of view that makes you walk a little slower just to keep looking at it.

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As we got closer it got more and more crowded, the kind of crowd you can’t avoid during summer in London. Still, we found the perfect spot for a photo, which became one of our favorites from the whole trip. We could even see red double decker buses passing from there!

2. Crossed Tower Bridge

Up the stairs we went, now finding ourselves among tourists from all over the world. On the footway, people rushed past as fast as they could while others stopped mid step to take pictures. On the roadway to our right, cars, trucks, and more red double decker buses drove past.

It was loud, hot, and completely chaotic, which I'd usually hate. But I loved it, because for months this exact bridge had only existed in my hopes, and now we were standing on it, under its towering gothic arches, with views of the River Thames and ships passing by.

We crossed all the way to the other side, went down the stairs, and arrived at the Tower of London. It was so hot that day that by the time we got there, we had to stop for a bit. We found a bench facing the bridge we'd just walked across and sat there for a while, appreciating the shade and the view.

3. Saw tiny London from above, at The Lookout

We walked until we arrived at our next stop, a free gallery on the 50th floor of 8 Bishopsgate. This wasn't our initial plan, we tried to go to Sky Garden and Horizon 22 (much more known), but they must be booked in advance, sometimes months ahead, so even though we tried there were no tickets left.

But I'm actually so glad that happened, because after a lot of research, I found out about The Lookout. It's free and because it's still a hidden gem, booking our tickets online was super quick and easy.

We simply showed our tickets, went through a quick security check, and rode the lift up 50 floors to staggering views of London from above: the bridges, the Tower of London, St. Paul’s, the Shard… All laid out like a tiny-sized London right under our feet.

4. Quick stop at Leadenhall Market

A short walk from there, we cut through Leadenhall Market. Having so little time to explore a city means you have to walk fast past things you'd wish to stay longer for. But even just passing through was worth it. It's stunning! All wrought iron and glass, with a magnificent Victorian design. And the ground beneath it used to be the heart of Roman London, nearly 2,000 years ago. You’d never guess it walking by!

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5. Took the tube to St James's Park and walked to Buckingham Palace

We took the Underground, more known as “the tube”, from Monument Station to St James’s Park Station. It was packed, no seats left, not glamorous at all, but so very much Londonish that we were oddly happy to be doing it. It felt essential for the full experience.

And it got me thinking about how easily we complain about ordinary everyday things – a crowded train, a rainy morning, a long day at work – when for someone else, right now, just living a moment like this is the dream.

We came out of the station and walked toward Buckingham Palace, the golden decorated lamps along the way a sure sign we were getting closer. Then we walked straight into what seemed like the most crowded place and hottest hour of the day.

We were so glad to find some shade at Green Park, right across the street from the Queen Victoria Memorial. All the benches were taken so we couldn’t sit and rest properly, but at least we were protected from direct sunlight for a bit.

And that’s when we heard music. It was coming from the direction of the Palace.

6. Watched the Captain's Inspection at Buckingham Palace

What we’d stumbled into, we found out later, was the Captain’s Inspection. Different from the full Changing of the Guard (which happens at 11am on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays) what we saw was a shorter ceremony that happens at 3pm on the days without a full changeover and lasts about 20 minutes.

This is what you'd see if you were there: a full regimental band playing while the Captain checks that the guards currently on duty are still fit for the job. All of them dressed in black, red, white, and gold – like real life nutcrackers!

We hadn't planned around it and didn't even know it existed until we were witnessing it, which means that if we hadn't being forced to stop for some shade, we would have missed it completely! We also ended up with a far better view than we probably would have at the busier morning ceremony.

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7. Walked to the Big Ben and Westminster Bridge

We crossed St James’s Park, the Blue Bridge, and caught a view that stopped us both: a wide street lined up with trees and Union Jacks all along it, black cabs (so very Londonish!) going by, and Buckingham Palace at the end. It was like seeing a real-life movie! We were standing at The Mall Crossing.

After what seemed like a long walk, Big Ben came into view, and the closer we got, the bigger the crowd grew. We crossed Westminster Bridge, stopping in the middle for a quick photo, turned right, went down the stairs, turned right again, and stopped underneath it, at a spot called Bridge Arch Photo.

It felt exactly like the tourist trap it is (there was even a queue!), but we got the photo anyway, then found a spot with some shade a little further on, which we badly needed, it was so hot we couldn't even think properly.

And there, in a much quieter spot, we found the perfect view to end the day: Big Ben against the sky, the Thames underneath it sparkling like glitter from the sunlight hitting the water, Westminster Bridge to the left, and the London Eye right behind.

Recap of the itinerary with travel tips

If you a limited time to explore the city like we did, I just gave you our exact 1 day London itinerary. It involves some trains, but it's mostly walking, so be prepared for that. Apart from the transport, everything we did was free. Here's the recap with some tips:

• Start at London Bridge station and walk to Tower Bridge, so you can experience seeing it at the end of the corridor, moving closer and closer as you walk towards it

• Cross Tower Bridge and sit on one of the benches in front of the Tower of London, for some rest and a good view of the bridge

• Get to 8 Bishopsgate, show your tickets, ride the elevator to the 50th floor and enjoy the magnificent views that The Lookout offers, with London right at your feet!

• Pass through Leadenhall Market (even a 5 minute detour is worth it)

• Take the tube from Monument Station to St James’s Park Station

• Walk to Buckingham Palace and try to catch one of the guards ceremony (go back a bit for the full details)

• Cut through St James’s Park for some shade and the beautiful Buckingham Palace backdrop view

• Walk toward Big Ben and Westminster Bridge, then stop in the middle of the bridge to take in the view

• After crossing, turn right, and right again for the Bridge Arch Photo spot under the bridge, if you don't mind the crowd and a queue, or keep going straight and you'll find a quieter (and shaded) view of the Thames, Big Ben, Westminster Bridge, and London Eye

  

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Travel Tips

• Summer in Europe feels a lot hotter than you'd think (FYI, we're from Brazil, so we know something about the heat!), so if you can avoid going during a heatwave or temperatures above 30C, the experience will be much better

• Benches at the parks are scarce because it's so crowded, so bring a blanket to make sure you can rest on the grass without getting prickled or getting your clothes dirty

• You don't need cash to pay for trains within London and its metropolitan area, just tap your card or phone on the machines and you’ll be good to go (we actually didn’t use cash for anything while in the UK, just credit and debit card)

• You'll probably hear about Sky Garden or Horizon 22 in your research (they're the most famous ones), but I'd arguee that The Lookout is the hidden gem here

• If you hear music near Buckingham Palace and you weren’t expecting it, follow it. You might get lucky like we did!

The honest part

London is big. London is rushed. London is crowded. It’s exactly the kind of place we usually go out of our way to avoid. It’s the opposite of our travel and lifestyle: slow and intentional.

But we’re so glad we went. London is iconic in the UK, just like New York is in the US. It’s crowded, noisy, and rushed. But going from “one day we’ll go to London” to actually standing together in the middle of all that – even if just for once – is a magical moment we’ll never forget.

So if there’s a place you’ve been telling yourself “one day” about, I hope this letter is what finally pushes you to go. I hope you don't keep postponing, assuming tomorrow is guaranteed. Because it really isn't, nothing in life is.

And if that place happens to be London, I hope you get to hear that exact announcement someday too: “the next station is London Bridge. Please mind the gap between the train and the platform”. And may that someday come very soon.

With love,
Myse ✨

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Isn’t that what society promised us? Hustle hard enough, and you’ll get there.

But what does “there” even mean? And if I did get there, would I finally be happy or would I just keep chasing the next best thing that was expected of me?

When everyone around you seems to have it all figured out — the career, the house, the timeline — and you’re still giving it your all to achieve that “success” but somehow never getting there… You. Get. Tired.

Tired of rushing, tired of telling yourself you need to try harder, tired of feeling like a failure.

And quietly wondering if wanting something different makes you lost, or brave.

I choose to think it’s the latter.

That you’re not a failure, nor lost. You were just following a path you didn’t even choose. A timeline that was never really yours to begin with.

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I was in the middle of the lane when I realized I was so busy chasing the finish line life I wanted that I wasn't even living the one I already had.

It was only after I stopped running that I realized: being rich was never about reaching the finish line. It was about having time to actually enjoy life, instead of letting it pass me by.

To eat cherries picked straight from the tree, and then make pancakes with cherries on top.

To feel the cool breeze on a hot summer day.

To let the rain wash away the urgency, the worries, and the noise, until all that’s left is peace.

To smell flowers in full bloom while watching the bees zoom.

To call someone that lives far away, just to say I love them.

To listen to the birds sing like a perfect symphony.

To turn an ordinary Tuesday into a celebration, just because.

To be grateful for having way too many choices to make, and things I want to do in life.

So I started to rewire my brain, to live with intention instead of urgency. No, it doesn't mean I gave up on wanting more. It means I get to decide what's worth wanting, instead of chasing whatever's expected of me.

It means I’m choosing to slow down and actually enjoy each moment on my way to my dream life.

After all, that’s where happiness had been all along: in the moments, days and things we take for granted in the rush of everyday life, assuming they’ll always be there. We forget they aren’t guaranteed. Nothing in life is.

So, will happiness be waiting for me at the finish line? I don't think so anymore. To me, it's already here. In the cherries, the birds, and the ordinary Tuesdays.

With love,
Myse ✨

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It was the middle of May, just a few days after we arrived in France, when we noticed a field near our house had just been planted. Rows of turned soil with some pops of green, but nothing to tell us what it would become yet. We didn’t even know for sure it was sunflowers.

For weeks, nothing happened. Or at least, nothing we could see.

From stem to bloom

You can call it a coincidence, but that field had a beautiful sunset spot. It was divided in 2, on one side soil, on the other, wheat (still green by then, and because we hadn't seen one up close, we would only find out they were wheat later). But it had such a calming effect looking at them move with the wind while the sun painted the sky that we went everyday during sunset, like clockwork.

Every time we were standing there I kept hoping they would become sunflowers. It’s strange how much faith it takes to keep believing in something that gives you nothing back for days on end. Or weeks, or months, or years — I might not be talking about flowers.

But I digress.

Then, slowly, things started to change. Stalks shot up tall with big leaves. And that was the confirmation I needed. Just a few more days now. Buds appeared, tight and green, facing down like they weren’t ready to be seen yet. And one morning in the last week of June, they opened.

We caught the first blooms around June 23rd. By June 29th, every single flower in that field was standing at full height, facing the same direction, like an audience that had finally taken its seats.

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From bloom to wilt

We tried photographing at sunset for days. Golden hour, warm light, the whole dream. Except French summer had other plans: heatwaves pushed past 40°C for weeks, and trust me when I say it’s unbearably HOT.

So between work deadlines and the heat making it hard to leave the house at all, we kept postponing. There's always tomorrow, we told ourselves. The season had just started, surely there was still time... Isn't it funny how easily we take things for granted, assuming they'll still be there once we finally make time?

But just like all magical moments are fleeting, so is sunflower season: it doesn’t wait for you to be ready either. By July 4th, many flowers had already begun to wilt. After trying their best to survive temperatures so high their soils cracked, they hung their heads down, losing their petals, and giving up on the sun that gave them their name in the first place.

That's when we rerouted our plans and switched to sunrise instead. Waking up before dawn turned out to be a small price to pay for the magical moments that followed.

On July 10th, we found the most perfect sunflower field I've seen. Every flower facing us, like the perfect golden summer we dreamed of, as if it had been waiting just for us.

Did you know that in French, they’re called “tournesol,” which literally means “turns with the sun”? Young sunflowers actually do this, turning their heads east to west throughout the day. Once they mature, they stop moving and face east for good.

Watching a whole field of them do this at once, in perfect unison, is something photos or videos never quite capture.

But if you, like me, thought it'd be the same in the region, here's the intriguing part: on the same day, some fields were fully wilted, while others just a few kilometers away were at their absolute peak. It all depends on when the farmer planted, the conditions given, and (quite a lot of) luck on our timing.

Your turn to wander

If you’re planning a summer trip to France and want to live the sunflower season dream, here are some tips.

When to go

In the region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, the first blooms started in the last week of June, peaked around the very end of June and the first days of July, and gone within about ten days after that. But so many factors can change that. Last year, in Auvergne (located in the heart of France), we saw fields blooming mid-July in some towns and already wilted by July 22nd in others. There’s no single answer, only “it depends on where you are, who planted it, and when.”

Where to look

Skip the big cities and the highways. Sunflowers don’t grow for an audience. But they'll be there for those who look for them, growing in the countryside, down roads you'd usually skip or rush past.

Best time of day

At sunrise or sunset. Not just for the golden hour, but because French summer heat can climb past 40°C+ and trust me when I say (once again) it’s unbearably HOT.

What I learned from something this simple

If you don't know me yet, I can't help but notice the things most people rush past and give meaning to the little things. So here it goes: I used to plan travel itineraries around places and events that had their timing already set and controlled. Museums with opening and closing times. Villages with weekend festivals.

But this was different. This was trying to find something that was either going to be magnificently there, or disappear, whether I was ready or not.

I spent weeks not knowing what that field would become. Then I spent only a few days watching it become everything, all at once. And then, just as fast, watching it fade.

Some seasons of your life bloom right on time, and you happen to catch them perfectly. Others you miss by very little, and all you can do is keep trying to find the next one down the road, hoping it’s not too late for that one either.

So if you’re driving through France during summer and shades of yellow start filling your sight, pull over. Don’t leave it for “some other day” or wait for “the better” field further down the road. This one might already be gone by the time you get there.

And this might not be about sunflowers after all.

With love,
Myse ✨

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I almost didn’t send this letter. But if it found its way to you, maybe we both needed it.

Okay, so… I’ve been gone for a while. Since November, actually. And I could say life got busy, which honestly, it did, a lot. But the real reason took me a while to realize, and even longer to admit, even to myself:

I kept waiting.

Waiting to be ready.
Waiting to have it all figured out.
Waiting for the perfect idea.

And hoping that by then I’d be the kind of person who lets her work be seen, even when it’s not good enough in her own eyes.

The thing is, I can’t do things halfway. I either give it my all or I don’t even try. But I’m slow — so damn slow. Turning an idea into something real takes time, at least for me.

But in the age of the internet, I was feeling worse and worse about my rhythm to do things. As if, no matter how hard I tried, I was always behind.

You know how it is, everything happens so fast these days!

Want food? Delivery.
Want a movie? Netflix.
Want to know something? Google it.
Or, even better, ask AI!

Don’t get me wrong, I can’t imagine life without any of that. But that same speed follows you into social media too: post every day or you get buried, they keep saying.

So instead of showing up imperfectly, I just didn’t show up at all.

Perfectionism is sneaky like that. It doesn’t feel like fear. It feels like you care too much about something to put it out there before it’s ready.

But one of the things my 30s are already teaching me is this: you can’t hear yourself unless you cut through the noise.

So I’m learning to listen to myself when I say that:

It’s okay to move at a slower speed than what’s expected of me.
It’s okay to not be where I thought I’d be by now.
It’s okay to still be a work in progress.

And slowly, I’m starting to believe that’s enough. That I’m enough.

And now that this letter found its way to you, know that you're not behind either. You’ll get there at the perfect time — your own time.

With love,
Myse ✨

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If you were walking through a misty trail in the cold dark forest when suddenly a suspicious hut loomed ahead, would you dare to open the door and go in?

I know, it's risky. But we did.

And what followed were floating Jack-o’-Lanterns dancing on a lake as if they were levitating, pumpkin-headed monsters that suddenly came alive, a fire-breathing dragon, and an infinite circle of skeletons spiraling up a massive tree.

The kind of Halloween magic that made us understand why so many people in the US are obsessed with fall — one of the many reasons we are now too.

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Way beyond page 3

It was autumn in Ohio and the air was filled with something entirely new to us — the spine-tingling excitement of our very first Halloween!

“By the pricking of my thumbs, something wicked this way comes.”

As two Brazilians experiencing Halloween for the first time, we had no idea what “authentic” was supposed to feel like. Should we go to the biggest, most famous haunted house? The one on most must-do lists? Or with the most elaborate special effects? Because when I searched “Halloween activities in Ohio,” that's the kind of event that Google served up.

But this part you must know about me by now: I love discovering authentic, uncommon, out of the ordinary places that tourists don't usually go to. In other words, places only locals know about. I've learned that these are — by far — the best experiences we can get when traveling.

So, buried way beyond page 3 of search results (does anyone else even go there anymore?), I found a mention of something called the Lorain County Metro Parks Halloween Fair.

Okay, I must admit, this is such a hidden gem that even some locals don’t know about (yes, I asked around 😅). But we took a risk and went anyways. And, just a 30-minute drive from Cleveland, we discovered a world that felt straight out of a movie. Where spooky meets whimsical, and where every shadow hid a new surprise — some spooky, some funny, all absolutely mesmerizing.

Entering the Haunted Trail

Before embarking on this haunted adventure, we warmed ourselves with what we learned is an essential local autumn tradition: eating a donut and an apple fritter paired with apple cider that would make even the Headless Horseman stop for a sip. We waited in line as we sampled everything, after all, warm drinks and sweet treats on a crisp autumn night are the perfect combination, right?

As we heard distant screams that made us wonder what was awaiting us, it was our turn to enter the trail. It begins innocently enough, just some ghosts floating through trees and a glowing witch moving between shadows. But then…

A suspicious hut loomed in the mist and lured us in. Being afraid of the dark, I walked slowly thinking that it would make things easier. But creatures hiding in the most unexpected places gave me so many jumpscares that I lost count!

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Floating Jack-o’-Lanterns and glowing skeletons

Now, I don’t know if I passed out from the scares and dreamed of this, but there were hundreds of Jack-o’-Lanterns floating on a lake. Their flickering grins reflecting in the dark water were absolutely hypnotizing.

This wasn’t some high-tech projection used to make the scene look real. These were real-life pumpkins. Someone had spent hours carving them, figuring out how to make them float, arranging them just so. Because they wanted to create something magical for everyone else to experience.

Each turn revealed new surprises: a house filled with spooky clowns, pumpkin-headed monsters coming alive from nowhere, and an infinite spiral of skeletons climbing a massive tree — I wonder up to where they were able to climb? It looked super cool!

Spooky scenes straight out of a movie

You know how in horror movies someone always says “Let’s split up!” and you think “That’s a terrible idea”? Well, I should warn you: stay together if you have a faint heart like me… This trail had spooky scenes that felt straight out of a movie production and so many secrets scattered throughout that even staying together couldn’t prevent us from screaming and laughing at the same time — and loving every minute of it!

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Your turn to wander

Here’s a treat of information for you to enjoy this Halloween fun next year:

When: exclusively on Fridays and Saturdays of October (exact dates to be announced, usually on late September)

Where: Carlisle Visitor Center (12882 Diagonal Road, LaGrange), which is just a 30-minute drive from Cleveland, Ohio

Parking: Completely free and very organized (they had staff members showing us where to park)

Cost: $7 per person (so worth it)

Tickets: Available online and in-person, but they historically SELL OUT quickly, so it's best to buy your tickets online as soon as they’re available to guarantee entry

Extra tip 1: If going with kids, make sure to go on the Boo Choo Train Ride, as it's non-spooky (we went too, but I'm sure kids will love it much more, along with face painters, balloon artists, and the family-friendly trail)

Extra tip 2: Wear warm clothes. You might not think it will, but October nights in Ohio are quite cold!

The magic of community-created experiences

Sometimes I think we’ve been trained to equate quality with visibility. If it’s not featured in major travel guides or trending on social media, we assume it’s not worth our time.

But experiences like this Halloween Fair remind me why that’s backwards thinking. The most magical places I’ve discovered hide in uncommon, out-of-the-obvious spots — the ones that haven’t been “discovered” by mass tourism and that value community over profit, authenticity over Instagram-ability.

This year, the Lorain County Metro Parks Halloween Fair celebrated 50 years of chills, thrills, and cherished memories that have brought generations of families together. A tradition that starts being prepared in spring so we can enjoy in autumn. And after 5 decades, the volunteers remain the heartbeat of the fair — which definitely shows.

Between the scares, you could sense the love behind every detail. The team that spent weeks (or months) creating the haunted trail. Brainstorming an animatronic fire-breathing dragon. Figuring out how to make skeletons spiral up a tree. Creating handmade decorations from scratch. Even the way volunteers seemed genuinely excited when visitors enjoyed a particular scare.

And now I know why this Halloween Fair sold out this year just like it did the last. Because in a world of increasingly commercialized and social media hyped places and things, this Halloween Fair felt like the result of people who genuinely love the holiday coming together to share it with their community.

The kind of place that reminds you what happens when you skip the obvious attractions, dig deeper, and venture off the beaten path.

As the saying goes, “When black cats prowl and pumpkins gleam, may luck be yours on Halloween!” And lucky I was indeed, to have walked on this haunted trail so I could now tell you — and help its magic live on for many years to come.

Until my next letter,

Myse ✨

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Cleveland is definitely not the first city that comes to mind when planning a trip to the US. I know, it wasn't on my radar either. It’s hard to compete with famous destinations like New York and Chicago.

“Cleveland? Why would you even go there?”

That’s what people said when I mentioned our Ohio travel plans. And the internet agreed. All the comments online about Cleveland were the same: boring, nothing to do, skip it.

But I’m so glad we didn’t listen and went anyways. Because they were all magnificently wrong.

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It was cold and gray when we left the house that day, which would usually make me want to turn around (going out in the rain is not at all my cup of tea, I'd much rather stay at home all cozy). But it was the beginning of autumn, and a date at the art museum sounded perfect. So there we went…

Through the doors of 1916

At the North Entrance, we checked our umbrella and bag with a friendly attendant — everything was so organized! No tickets. No entrance fee. Just warm welcomes and directions to start exploring the over 66,000 artworks spanning 6,000 years of human history and creativity.

After passing the Atrium and entering the 1916 Building, we were greeted by the Cleveland Apollo, the only surviving large-scale bronze sculpture of the Lizard-Slayer Greek god. There was so much to see and learn as we walked through Ancient civilizations, from Greek and Roman to Egyptian and African, then through Medieval and Renaissance times, that only then I began realizing this was no ordinary place. The Cleveland Museum of Art was a world-class museum I had never heard of up until then.

There were German Paintings so small that we had to use a magnifying glass to see the details. And in the next room, French Tapestries so huge they covered an entire wall — their details beautifully illuminated in the dark room.

Up the stairs we went and got stopped in our tracks again: a massive room with a soaring glass ceiling where clouded sun light streamed through to illuminate Baroque paintings and artifacts. A museum employee noticed us admiring the room and invited us to go to the very top through the elevator — a viewpoint most visitors don't even know about.

But now you do too. Standing there, surrounded by the geometric perfection of neoclassical architecture meeting modern design, I understood how the building itself is art.

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In the Rotunda, a 19th century statue of the Terpsichore Lyran starred at us. In Greek mythology, Terpsichore was the Muse of Lyric Poetry — one of the nine Muses, or goddesses, of creative inspiration. From her curly updo and the folds of her garment to her fingers graciously holding the lyre, she looked so real I couldn’t help but get closer — hypnotized by her unpretentious power.

Then we arrived at the Armor Court and we couldn’t believe our eyes yet again: a medieval knight frozen mid-charge, complete with a full suit of armor for both man AND horse from 1575 Northern Italy. The combined weight? 114 pounds of intricately decorated steel.

We walked forward in time all the way to the East Galleries, where we stood in front of Monet’s “Water Lilies”, “The Red Kerchief” and “Spring Flowers” for I don’t even know how long. Not because we had to wait in line or shuffle past crowds, but because we could. Because on this random Tuesday afternoon in Cleveland, it was just me, my husband, and Monet (okay, and the security guard, but let’s keep this poetic 😂).

Time dissolved with Van Gogh’s “Two Poplars in the Alpilles”, “Adeline Ravoux” and “A pair of Lovers”… We wanted to linger longer with Picasso’s “Still Life with Biscuits”, “Tête” and “Harlequin with Violin”, but the announcement of closing time pulled us back to reality. Still, we managed to get a glimpse of the West Galleries’ Asian treasures — just enough to know we’d need to return.

The question that changed everything

And right there, in the middle of one of the most comprehensive art collections in the United States, I thought:

“How is this free?”

Not because it should cost money. Very much the opposite. But because I couldn’t understand how a museum this extraordinary wasn’t paid and on every travel list I’d seen.

Look, I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the Louvre. It’s magnificent and iconic, but you know what else it is? Crowded. Expensive. Rushed.

You fight crowds for a glimpse of the Mona Lisa. You pay €22. You're pressured to move along because there are 50 people behind you waiting for your spot (mind you, I went in winter, so I can only imagine summer).

In Cleveland, I discovered works by Caravaggio, Rodin, and Malvina Hoffman. I saw Egyptian sarcophagi painted with symbols to protect the dead in the afterlife, Nigerian headdress from the early 1900s representing the ideal feminine beauty, and a Chinese Northern Qi dynasty Buddha whose hand gestures I then learned meant fearlessness and gift giving. Artifacts that made ancient humans feel startlingly present.

In Paris, these rooms would be packed. But here, I could look at it all at my own pace. Just how I like it — and I know you do too!

We stayed for more than 4 hours, right until closing time, but still couldn’t see everything. And honestly? We’d go back many more times if we could.

Because way beyond all the richness in knowledge we gained, here’s what really got me: the museum’s philosophy. Their permanent collection has been free since 1916. Free. For over a century. Because the founders believed art should be accessible to everyone, not just those who can afford admission.

“For the benefit of all the people forever” is what they had on their façade.

In a world of $20+ museum tickets and timed entries, Cleveland is quietly doing something radical: treating world-class art as a public good. Because as you walk through the museum, you travel through time and place, seeing how different eras and beliefs have shaped who we are today. It’s a reminder that to build a better future, we must understand our past — just like in life, where things only make sense when we look back.

Or, as the museum director very well said: “Art allows us to see and imagine things we would not be able to otherwise. As we face today’s challenges and uncertainties, we need to be able to imagine solutions that do not yet exist. All of our efforts are intended to inspire great ideas and foster a shared sense of hope, community, and possibility.”’

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Your turn to wander

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 5pm (Wednesdays and Fridays until 9pm)

Parking: There's street parking, such as on East Boulevard, and the museum garage, accessible from Jeptha Drive (both are paid, check the insider tips below)

Time needed: Minimum 4 hours (we stayed that long and still couldn't see everything)

Insider tips:

• There are free guided tours daily, but make sure to reserve your tickets before going

• General admission to the museum’s permanent collection (what we went to) is always free. But some ticketed exhibitions and events require paid admission.

• The museum garage accepts both credit card and cash. If you opt for street parking, know that, at least when we went it was payable only by coin (specifically quarters), so learn from us and arrive much earlier — we missed the guided tour because we didn't know about the museum garage and had to figure out for the first time hout how paid street parking by coin worked, all while it was raining 😅

• Be aware that the South Entrance is closed depending on the season (this happened to us) and, if so, you'll only be able to enter through the North Entrance

• Check the museum map beforehand to have an idea of where to go and to make sure you don't miss the exhibitions you're most interested in

• Don't stop inside the museum, combine with a walk around the South Entrance and the Fine Arts Garden, as it's gorgeous with the trees, fountain and lake, and there are outdoor sculptures, such as Rodin's “The Thinker” and Malvina Hoffman's “Bacchanale”!

The beauty of travelling slow

You know what I love about slow travel? It’s having the luxury to dedicate a whole afternoon to visit a museum because you’re not rushing to check off every tourist sight. It’s sitting with a single artwork until it reveals its secrets. It’s discovering that the “boring” city everyone warned you about is hiding treasures in plain sight.

Cleveland’s Museum of Art isn’t trying to compete with the Louvre’s size or the Met’s fame. It’s doing something different — something that might be even more important.

It’s proving that world-class art shouldn't require a famous zip code or an admission fee to match. Instead, it should be free. For everyone. Forever.

So next time someone tells you there’s nothing interesting to do in Cleveland, send them this letter. Better yet, go see for yourself.

Because sometimes the best destinations are the ones nobody tells you about — oh, but you already know that here I do tell you.

Until my next letter,

Myse ✨

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Imagine you're walking on cobblestone streets from the 12th century, still uneven like they were in ancient times (so watch your step or you might lose your balance)… You hear the churchbells ring and as you look around, you notice the beautifully preserved gray-colored stone houses where the only hints of color come from the light blue and green wooden windows and doors. And the roses, of course, blooming in many hues. After all, it's summer in Europe.

This is Charroux, a medieval fortress named one of the "Most Beautiful Villages of France", and the only one in the department of Allier. Where even the name of the streets — Chicken Street, Ironworks Street, Tanners Street, Clock Street, Auditorium Street — whisper stories of what they witnessed long ago. Merchants arguing over prices, lovers meeting in shadows, children playing games already forgotten by time.

Today, I want to show you why this hidden corner of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes deserves a spot on your France itinerary, along with the practical details to make it happen.

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800 years of stories carved in stone

Having survived the Plague, the Hundred Years' War, and the Wars of Religion of the 16th century, Charroux stands as a living museum of medieval ingenuity. Built as a fortress, its defensive design is still visible today as you walk the concentric streets of the citadel. Its stone residences and streets, numerous wells, and streets named after important trades all attest to a once-thriving community of wealthy merchants and intellectuals.

What not to miss while exploring

• Cour des Dames: surrounded by buildings with concave facades, this is where the population gathered and took refuge during invasions

• Porte de l'Horloge: its 14th-century Belfry houses a bell that has been striking the hours since 1549

• Place de la Baume: where you’ll find one of Charroux's many wells, this one is about 12 meters deep

• Porte d'Orient: its door arch dates from the 13th century

• Half-timbered and corbeled house: beside the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste sits one of Charroux's oldest houses, built in the 14th century

• Le Belvédère: built in 1848, at the end of the Grande Rue, it offers breathtaking views of the plateau du Pérou during sunset

The secret of the leaning houses

Did you know the government once taxed people based on their ground floor footprint? Clever medieval residents responded by building narrow foundations and expanding upward — creating houses with 1 or more floors that were wider at the top than the bottom. That's why many buildings from the time seem to lean toward each other across narrow streets, like old friends sharing centuries-old gossip.

Below is a picture of one of the oldest houses of the village, perfectly demonstrating this ingenious tax avoidance, its upper floors jutting over the street below, towards Saint-Jean-Baptiste Church. This is one of the fascinating discoveries we made during the guided walking tour of Charroux.

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What to do while you’re there

Take the walking tour

The Maison du Tourisme offers guided walking tours during July and August for 5 euros per person — call them or simply stop by to book. It's so worth it! Even with the little French we had, we discovered fascinating details about medieval life (like that tax story!)

Try the mustard

Dijon isn't the only place that offers delicious French moutarde! The Moutarde de Charroux produces theirs locally, in various flavours, and you can taste as many as you want before buying (I absolutely did 🤭). In the end I chose 2 types: the traditional and the truffle mix, which, in mini size, made great edible souvenirs to take in our luggage.

Watch the sunset at Le Belvédère

Built in 1848, it's located at the end of Grande Rue (Charroux’s main street) and offers stunning views of the plateau du Pérou. Arrive before sunset and watch the Auvergne countryside unfold in shades of green and gold (this was such a highlight of our trip that I created a special video — you can watch it here).

Dine at La Ferme Saint-Sébastien

This is the village's culinary gem, serving the most delicious and refined plates made with locally sourced ingredients. Their menus change constantly, and they have an extraordinary “Chariot de Fromages” with so many different types of cheese, we couldn’t help but try as many as we could!

Go on a daytrip

From Charroux you can go on many daytrips throughout Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes:

• Clermont-Ferrand: Sitting at the foot of the Puy de Dôme and the Chaîne des Puys — a UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes 80 volcanoes.

• Route des Églises Peintes du Bourbonnais: A route of churches that have frescoes inside still preserved from medieval times.

• Vichy: Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its thermal springs and healing waters since Roman times.

• Route des Fromages AOP d'Auvergne: 5 cheese varieties and over 30 fromageries to choose from, including Ferme de Lambres and GAEC de l'Oiseau.

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Stepping through time at a medieval festival

Did you know that there are medieval festivals in France throughout the year? We were thrilled when we found out! And the best part: there was one happening super close to us — and for free!

Les Médiévales du Chardon took place at Château de Gannat and it was amazing to see what we had read in history books and seen in TV shows came alive! Costumed performers filled the castle grounds with folk melodies and dances, while artisans exhibited a variety of handmade artifacts. We tried our hand at archery (surprisingly I nearly hit the target!) and watched armored knights demonstrating real-life combats.

How to get to Charroux

There is no public transport available to Charroux, which is something we’ve experienced a lot throughout our travels to uncommon destinations, and exactly why we prefer car rentals. We use Turo (like Airbnb for cars) because it's been consistently cheaper than traditional rentals, as well as reliable, after 18 months of testing.

Clermont-Ferrand is the closest “big” city, so this was our route: a flight to Paris, a connecting flight to Clermont, an Uber to pick up the car, and finally 1h drive to Charroux.

TIP: Car rental becomes essential not just for reaching Charroux, but for exploring the surrounding destinations that make France so special.

Where to stay in Charroux

You can stay in a B&B, such as the charming Maison du Prince de Condé, or consider going to Charroux the same way we’ve been traveling through 5 countries: as house and pet sitters.

Here’s how it works: we care for the owners’ pets and home while they get a peaceful vacation, knowing that their fur babies and home are being cared for (and given lots of love hihihi). It’s a simple arrangement. But what we discovered was so much more.

We’ve been meeting so many amazing people along the way, sharing pre-departure dinners while getting to know each other, and getting kind offers of extended stays when gaps appear between sits. We get to live like locals, sometimes even picking fresh herbs, vegetables and fruits straight from the garden. All experiences that would be impossible through traditional tourism.

And with some we’ve created such a strong bond that we feel like part of the family and can’t wait to go back. This is the case with Charroux (sending lots of love, Jayne and Steve)!

Your turn to wander

Charroux proves that the most extraordinary travel happens not through checking landmarks off lists, but through connecting with places where time moves differently, strangers become friends over garden-fresh tomatoes, and history isn't displayed behind glass — it's walked upon, lived within and whispered by medieval street names. It's the kind of place you've probably never heard of (but should).

Until my next letter,

Myse ✨

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Remember that feeling when you first dreamed of exploring a new place? The excitement, the possibilities... and then the overwhelming wave of questions:

“What are the best things to do when I get there?”
"Where should I go beyond the obvious spots that everyone else goes to?"
"How can I make this trip unforgettable rather than just check things off a list?”

Because the truth is, you believe in collecting memories, not things. You yearn to discover the world and enjoy each moment, not rush past it like an infinite scroll.

I know. I've been there too.

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Hi, I'm Myse 🙋🏻‍♀️

And I'm excited to welcome you to MyTravelLetters! This is where you can slow down and enjoy the little things: feel the cool breeze on a hot summer day, taste freshly baked apple pie from the local orchard, breathe in the scent of lavender while watching bees zoom around a sea of flowers, be mesmerized by how the snow glistens as it falls…

Those details we miss in the crazy rush of everyday life.

In March 2024 I jumped on a plane and traded the familiar comfort of my hometown for a completely different way of living: slowly traveling the world with no fixed timeline and destination.

"Wouldn't you rather save for a house or buy a nice car?" people asked, thinking this was all too crazy.

But here's the thing about dreams – they don't always fit into the conventional mold of what others think your life should look like.

Since then I've been discovering the magic that happens when you wander off the beaten path and step away from the crowd. 5 countries, 40+ cities, and most importantly, I've been mastering the art of finding hidden corners and gems.

You know, places that make people ask "Why would anyone go there?" but which, as it turns out, are exactly where the most extraordinary experiences await.

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Why this matters to you

I've been carefully curating things for each trip I made. But it was all for myself. I've been making so many wonderful discoveries that I realized: instead of gatekeeping this magical experience, I could help other people too. So I decided to share it all with you.

Starting today, every other week, I'll write you a letter from wherever my journey has taken me, sharing:

✈️ Uncommon destinations most people overlook
💎 Curated itineraries with hidden gems that even some locals don't know
💡 Insider tips I wish someone had shared with me
✨ The transformative power of slow travel and slow living in a rushed world
📖 Real talk because it's not as glamorous as it looks

Think of it as receiving letters from a friend who scouts magical travel experiences and shares them with you in vivid detail, saving you from endless online searches that leave you either overwhelmed by conflicting information or frustrated from finding nothing at all. Instead, you'll get tested recommendations and the information you need to create your own unforgettable memories.

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Until my next letter,

Myse ✨