Or, for any time of year for that matter, are an important element in a gentleman’s wardrobe. An all-encompassing shoe collection shall include in its rotation a pair of black toe-cap Oxfords. I was once of the mind that they were boring, tedious and just routine. On reflection this is a relic of my school years, spending the best part of 8 hours a day in a pair of black shoes that crippled me when new and cramped me as I grew.

My indifference to my school shoes would see them live inside the front door when unworn, kicked off on the rush to the fridge. They’d be waiting there the next morning having been tended to by my father - they would last longer. On his visits, they’d be lovingly cared for by my grandfather - this was a lesson in life greeted then with a sigh, now with a tear in my eye.

I left school with a Churchill wave and I’m sure Mr Borges’ wry smile in return meant the same also: good riddance. I bid goodbye to the black shoe too; they were kicked off into the bin.

The ‘Back to black’ moment was more than a few years later in the form of a fringed, later butchered, loafer. I loved them into the ground, literally. My return may have been some time later had it not been for the Mod revival. Wearing suits for work and suits down the club of an evening meant the Oxford would reappear, in a certain make-up of course. They were no longer kicked off, though well tended and lovingly polished. Instinctively.

I own three black pairs today, when one will do.

Hope that’s useful

Best

Nigel

PS The limited edition is available for pre-order here A Stylish Year

With my arm up my back this is The IgnoreAtYourPeril Sizzling Summer Top 100!

‘Great tunes mate’! (Smashey and Nicey circa 1990)

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

Wearing another Monet Bespoke suit. I like to do things simply and choosing one colour helps me do that, with a particular Cleaver accent, the blue and white striped shirt.

I recently visited Andersen & Shepherd to see some friends and lasered in to the pocket squares. In particular a better blue rolled-edge than the one I lost - misplaced - or was sold from under my nose, something like that. It tends to match the majority of my striped shirts too for the win. I like to wear them in a presidential fold and yet occasionally will go with a blousy flourish - though that tricks things things up. Best to be in the right mood for that…

Love the new knitted necktie too, one of those superb silks from J. Press. There’s a certain juxtaposition in something that looks so delicate yet could tame a wild horse. In brown of course alongside the socks with a blue shadow stripe from Mes Chaussettes Rouge - Brown suede loafers they’re housed in too. Simple.

When swapped out for a grey suit, not much changes. Black loafers, blue socks and a knitted necktie too, perhaps in blue or black. Keeping it simple…

When afflicted, easy choices are the way to go…

Hope to speak to you soon

Best

Nigel

Sent to Sunday school, to learn English. I threw dough to communicate and got in trouble

Primary School Threesome - Alison & Mel outside 4c. (Lunchtime pecks on the cheek)

Played football on the park till it was dark

First car - Thunderbolt

Schoolboy nickname - Nidge

Derby County win The Championship (celebrated behind the scenes)

Action Man - Gripping hands

Represented Derby Boys (Football)

Met Charlie George

Hid platform sole shoes under our hedge to secretly wear at school

Ate privet leaves to be sick so didn’t have to go

London

Rhyll

First Wembley - FA Charity Shield Derby County v West Ham

The Ashes - England v Australia at Edgbaston. Bob Willis steaming in…

Hid 9 Benson & Hedges under our hedge

Smoked a cigarette outside of my bedroom window

Wembley - England Schoolboys v Scotland Schoolboys

Discovered Northern Soul

Belgium - Ostend International Football Schoolboys tournament

Tuesdays at Tiffanys ‘Teen Disco’

Scotland

First overseas trip, stayed in Lido di Jesolo and visited Venice daily

Left school

Isle of Man

Bought a Suzuki ER50 - Dad made me take it back, helmet and all

Played football for money, poorly

Identified first weakness - Shoes

First live gig - The Jam

Bought a house at 17

France

Wembley FA Cup Final Everton v Liverpool

Ibiza

First car - *Vauxhall

Engaged

Wembley FA Cup Final Everton v Liverpool (2)

Split up

Lived in a pub’ - The Masons Arms

First Crockett & Jones

Played football overseas professionally

New Zealand

Australia

United States of America

Been homesick

Takapuna Beach…

Brisbane

Anaheim

Worked in Nottingham - Met longest held friend, Brass.

*BMW

Mobile phone (car)

First Crockett & Jones

Fell over - drunk

Bought the Barbour Border

Spain

Danced to The Bottle - Gil Scott-Heron at The Blue Note

First visit to Colmore Row - Crockett & Jones

Played semi-pro, happily

Portugal

Bought first Drakes necktie - from Canopy in Derby

Adult nickname - Cleav (stuck)

*Porsche 944 - Ivory

Only car crash - crumpled front end in the fog

Bounced from Bel-Air three times in one night

Got a proper job, fell in to becoming an Education Assistant at a Deaf School

Bought a Barbour waistcoat - buttoned, quilted and green

First visit to Perry Street, Northampton - Crockett & Jones…

Read more

Well, that day I returned to find her distraught - on reflection let’s say heart broken. Perhaps unsure as to whether I would ‘respond or react’ she fronted it nonetheless and all was well in the world.

Low and behold, a necktie that I believed to be draped around another has been discovered. Blessed relief all round.

Nestling under a ‘please launder me’ shirt was this beautiful fina grenadine necktie. Chocolate brown, unlined, hand rolled and with blue hearted daisies. A thing of beauty made by the fair hand of Patrizio - EG Cappelli.

We’re off to see him next Spring in Napoli. In the meantime I’ll whet my appetite perusing his wares whilst nursing a negroni. As should you, no harm in looking.

Just saying…

Hope that’s useful.

Best

Nigel

EG Cappelli

Your support is hugely appreciated. I am genuinely humbled, somewhat overwhelmed really and only Ali really knows the extent of that - I’m sure she’ll share soon enough. I believe I’m at the centre of a storm and on auto-pilot, enough to keep functioning professionally, not too much that the experience passes me by.

I know there’ll be a day soon when a glass of wine followed by a great night’s sleep comes without guilt. Until the next time of course…

Yesterday’s bespoke - for another - Rubinacci becomes today’s Monet Bespoke. It forms an important part of ‘A Stylish Year’, a book for all seasons.

Beginning in Spring and concluding in Winter it covers central pieces that dovetail throughout - highlighting elements of a gentleman’s wardrobe for the ages. In chapters throughout is the process of commissioning a new suit, one made uniquely for you.

Detailing different cloths, design choices and the patient process that delivers something that you want to wear. That being most important.

We’ve The Trunk show on 12th September on The Strand, London hosted by Marcus of Monet Bespoke where both suits, new and old will be on view. We’ll be able to chat with Marcus regarding the tailor’s process whilst offering our own - the customers perspective. Covered in the book, covered live on the 12th too.

It was a special week (filmed Saturday). The book went live on pre-order and is now to be published 15th December (est), I’m delighted and looking forward to the reception. Thank you once again.

The timing, by twist of fate (!), coincides with Christmas. I do see a copy wrapped, pride of place under the tree, or nestling in a large Christmas stocking ready for the significant other in your life. Falling asleep after lunch, with bookmark ready. Preorder now for those two hours of peace…

Here’s looking forward to seeing you on the 12th. If you can’t be there then there’s the book launch/signing proper in December - failing both then do please get in contact, I’m a willing penpal.

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

Hi Nigel, Suede Chelsea boots, yes or no?

Is there a particular age at which one shouldn’t wear them?

I have the Drakes Crosby Chukka boot and their Desert boot. Though I don’t have a Chelsea boot, which is a different itch, so to speak, I think.

Thanks

Bart

It’s a yes from me my friend and certainly not age dependent. I’ve got a few pairs though your question has made me consider why I go for the pair I wear most often. It’s because they’re easy to get on and off, comfy as hell and most importantly my trousers don’t get caught on the pull tab. Drives me insane that, getting out the car - walking upstairs - crossing my legs - and having to ‘sort my strides out’.

I have worn Chelsea boots (black & brown) with tailored trousers/suits and never really felt fully at ease. Where they shine though is with flannel, corduroy and the likes, easy to wear with a tweed jacket and a Barbour. They’re a classic ‘horses for courses’…

Must say though, in terms of suede boots, the chukka and desert boot hold sway for me. At last reckoning I must have north of 10 pairs, in various shades, to suit the seasons - mix and matched with fresco in summer and flannel in winter. Drakes versions were my first foray.

All can be worn with tailoring, okay not a three piece pinstripe, though I certainly feel right, literally. They’re so comfortable, perfect for the shop or down in to town

I like em that much I bought some low-tops, too, perfect for a glimpse of sock.

Getting the right cobbler to put on a new crepe sole is a faff though. It’s not the stitch-down process that’s a problem, it’s finding the right colour crepe. White isn’t my thing.

Other brands of note would be -

Astorflex - I have a few pairs from them, my favourite being the Montflex. I always advise against buying a new brand online, best to try on and get a sense of fit. If you can’t do that find a vendor happy to help - there’s none better than A Fine Pair Of Shoes in Warwick. Yes you can go along if you’re nearby, if not they will go the extra mile with last and sizing advice. I’ve known them for many years and take any opportunity to drop in (long overdue) and see Julian and Sarah. Lovely people doing a wonderful job. If you get in touch with ‘em mention my name - for no other reason than I might get a suede brush thrown in to my next kop.

Anglo Italian have a great range too. They used to offer the option to pre-order a pair should you want a specific colour, I had my eye on a green shade. I’ll have to check if they still do it…

The bonus is that either maker are a less expensive option than Drakes. You pay your money - you make your choice.

Though my ‘go to’ will be a suede chukka, or low-top - also perfect with flannel, corduroy and the likes, of course…

Bart, I hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

Another hot one today (Saturday) as it was yesterday when Graham and Adam came to town to film a piece for the book, please see above.

It’s essentially a glimpse, a dive in to the book and available for pre-order now. In fact we’re on the clock. There are three editions from which to choose and signing opportunities are looming large, if indeed that’s important.

It’s exciting, or so I’m told, though I know it’s only because I’m in the middle of the storm. That and there’s an element of looking down on a life that my 18 year old self could only dream of. I think that’s what it is really, if I’m honest

The premise of the book is a walk through A Stylish Year - pieces that will work throughout the seasons, covering every eventuality. In the video there’s just three, an insight if you will…

Capsule Wardrobe v N+1?

Thanks for all your support, I really appreciate it.

I hope that’s useful

Best

Nigel

The book? Well, here’s the idea…

Being comfortable in what we wear, whatever it is, gives us an edge. Importantly, not an edge over anyone else, more a fillip to ourselves. When it fits well, looks right and sings to us we stride out of a morning - shoulders back, ready for anything the world can throw at us. Finding your style is a personal journey, often a trip too long in the making. I know, I’ve done it. Here, distilled in one year, is my style. Not to copy, just to harness and ride in search of your own.

This, aligned with curated pieces for a gentleman’s wardrobe, becomes a considered style, not just for this year, for the ages.

Please take a look at the A Stylish Year to pre-order your limited edition - as ever, your support will be much appreciated.

There are three editions from which to choose -

Reader's Pack

Reader's Pack with Bookmark

Book and Print

and those kind enough to pre-order will be credited in the book as founding members.

They’ll also be a Trunk Show in September and the Book Signing event in December of course - both in London, more details to come. I do appreciate not everyone can get to Blighty, so we’ll have to work something out.

It’s been a labour of love, with key contributors royally thanked in the book.

It would be remiss of me though not to thank the beautiful one given any opportunity. Ali has my back - it’s truly something being able to live a life knowing that - best described when she catches my eye with her expression that says -

‘S’okay, I got you’…

I hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

Subscribe now

They brought with them some pieces of kit which impressed to say the least. The vocabulary used, as a linguist, was a lesson indeed - to say I was perplexed would be an understatement…

Aladdin, Egg-box and Barn doors are all lighting terms, who knew? I’m wiser and brighter

Oh and the book - available for pre-order August 3rd. More news, links and a video or two beginning Sunday.

‘Keep ‘em peeled’!

Hope that’s useful.

Best,

Nigel

Hair flopped, extra shirt button undone and bumbling manner deployed out I popped in to the heat of W11. Local boozer, book shops, vintage shops and al fresco dining - how many might make the connection and reach out…

The trail…

Al Fresco

In conclusion I’d like to report that no one thought I was Hugh Grant, mentioned there was any likeness or even looked twice. Conclusive evidence right there.

‘Erm, that is all - I think…

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

Saturday morning review first - Book preparations- pre-launch state nearly completed. The cover is done, chapters - Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. You won’t get the title, though you could try? Fonts, who knew there was so much to talk about, and photograph choices being finalised. A busy week ahead, down to London once again, though more yet to consider before we can think about next week.

Pressing today is the wonderful world of loafers - Black Loafers.

A friend of the shop has an itch. You know the one, an idle moment at the coal-face when someone asks a question and you’re so far away you’re not in the same post code. He had to give it a scratch so called -

‘Black loafers, got my size?

Leave it with me was the response…

Read more

I’m drawn to colour nowadays, when once I’d run away from standing out. Somedays I choose an antidote to colour, the monochrome look. The yin and yang of that works well for me now, I like it and of course - it’s just a difference.

Recently in that there London, neckties were thin on the ground. Markedly different to recent times, fear not though, I’m putting it down to the ever soaring temperatures.

The gentleman I saw in a grey suit, white shirt and yellow necktie presented a great British look. It may well be replicated around business centres in respective capitals around the world, it’s just that I saw it as a classic British ‘old school’ look. He took my eye immediately. It looked like a work thing, a business suit slightly long in the leg and well worn.

Thing is, a different necktie - think every hue of ROYGBIV - red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet and he’s box fresh everyday. Ally that with one day grey, the next a blue suit (with blue and white striped shirts in rotation) and he’s good to go for ‘Cock of the walk’ each and everyday.

Whether you’re a ‘Cock of the walk’ or ‘under the radar’ sort of fella it really doesn’t matter, one jot…

Two suits, one grey and one blue. N+0

Shirts - blue, white and blue and white striped. N+1

Neckties - Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain. N+?

Simplicity is key - all you’ve got to remember is what you wore yesterday.

I like that.

I hope that’s useful.

Best,

Nigel

Scott’s ground-breaking debut album, Passing Stranger earned serious critical acclaim, with his first single ‘Elusive’ winning the Ivor Novello for ‘Best Song - Musically and Lyrically’.

We’ve tickets to see Scott again in September ahead of his tour celebrating the 20th anniversary of one of my favourite albums - Passing Stranger - it’s one of those records you know, when you need a friend, one that always delivers?

Hope that’s useful

Best

Nigel

Saturday mornings, probably my favourite time of the week. The shop is home from home, a mirror of the house and eclectic to say the least and it has a ‘new’ addition.

The Big Chair has always been a favourite, recently liberated from storage and is as comfortable as I remembered. I had it made around 35 years ago - just goes to show that ‘well made’ lasts…

Read more

No clothing contract, wears what he likes and takes advantage of that. Easy fits, great colour combinations and not a walking bill-board.

Fleetwood has the freedom of his wardrobe now having been connected to Nike for well over a decade before ending his long-term relationship with the brand. Shot!

This season he’s rotated through a host of brands for clothing, including Vuori, Malbon, Tiger Woods’ Sun Day Red and some Lululemon trousers.

Oh and he can play a bit too

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

PS at time of writing he’s three back, playing the 10th

‘What (Cosmo) wanted was roast beef, smoking hot, with Yorkshire pudding and floury potatoes on the side, followed by something along the lines of roly-poly pudding and Stilton cheese’.

P. G. Wodehouse - Hot Water 1932

Which is what the beautiful one ordered, though couldn’t manage the cheese. Nor me to be fair, I’ve only got two stomachs…

They say - Few restaurants share the history or cultural significance of Simpson’s in the Strand. First opened in 1828 and established at 100 Strand since 1904, Simpson’s sits at the edge of Covent Garden, in the heart of London’s theatre district.

I love the history, the notion of it all and best still it delivers…

Reimagined by Jeremy King Restaurants, the revived “home of the English roast, the silver carving trolley and chess” unites the traditional Grand Divan, theatrical Romano’s, the classic Simpson’s Bar, the seductive Nellie’s, and a small ballroom under one roof.

All this and Ali’s left shoe snapped en route from The Royal Opera House. After a run around Piccadilly I couldn’t find any Gorilla Glue so sheepishly walked back empty handed to the crestfallen one, just 50 yards from Simpson’s. Then a genuine light-bulb moment hit when spotting The Savoy, Simpson’s glorious neighbour. A deep breath taken I approached the ‘top hat and tails’ Concierge with my best Cleaver charm.

‘You may not have been asked this before… We’re not residents, just to be clear, though could you help a man with a damsel in distress’?

Moments later we’re sat in the busy lobby with Loctite in hand, shoe secured and I’m £20 lighter.

We stroll in to Simpson’s, like nothing has happened, to be personally greeted -

‘Mr Cleaver, your table will be ready in a moment can we show you both to the bar…’

Delightful.

The history of this place hits you crossing the threshold. matched only by the attentive staff and the finest fare from which to choose.

We both wanted to see The Hot Trolley up close so went for the Roast Rib of Devonshire Beef carved at the table - served with Yorkshire pudding, roast root vegetables, seasonal greens, horseradish sauce and gravy. Simply put, we’ve never had finer.

All washed down with a cheeky carafe of Saint Joseph Rouge 2023, Domaine Lionnet, Northern Rhône - equally delightful.

Afters? Rude not to. Spotted Dick for the beautiful one and Trinity Burnt Cream for me. After all it goes in to that second stomach, right?

London bound? This is a must, breakfast, lunch or dinner - morning noon or night.

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

‘No shave this time Panos, just a full on ‘short back and sides’ (number 2) and next to nothing off the top please my friend?

‘Naturally sir

Now, I’m no conversationist in the Barber’s chair, though there was one fella two seats down who didn’t pause for breath which took the pressure off us all. He delightfully righted the wrongs of the world - from the Strait of Hormuz, global warming (38 celsius at 1pm) to the wonders of Jude Bellingham. Well, he definitely got Jude right.

First wrapped up in glorious white towels -

‘Please can you loosen your tie and undo the top two buttons Mr Cleaver?

All covered with a sealing T & H cutting collar the ritual begins. A dry trim around the sides, scissors or clippers it’s up to you. Standard barber chat is on offer too if you require -

‘Yes, we had a wonderful weekend thank you.

We dined at Simpsons. It was delightful.

Florence actually, we go every year’…

A forward hair wash to follow and an invigorating scalp massage when back upright with Athenian Water heralding from Panos’ home city. Well, he had me believe that initially. The firm massage made me laugh and I suggested that must happen often -apparently not. Then for a light feather-cut through the top, a blow-dry, cut-throat razor for sharp lines round the sides and a paste for the finished look…

‘Matte or shine, medium hold or full?

‘Matte and medium please, We like some flop…

To be fair I’m glad I didn’t go with full-hold, I’d still be washing it out now.

A final spruce with a horn comb, top buttons and necktie reset and I was good to go, in every sense of the phrase.

Truefitt & Hill say…

With its roots deeply immersed in London society, it is perhaps inevitable that the company’s past encompasses historic touchpoints throughout history. Truefitt has served nine reigning monarchs, was endorsed by Queen Victoria, received an enthusiastic nod by Charles Dickens in ‘The Uncommercial Traveller’, made a presence on the Titanic and hosted a clientele including Oscar Wilde, Sir Winston Churchill, Alfred Hitchcock, David Niven and Frank Sinatra.

To follow in such footsteps and be so royally (!) treated is something I can heartily recommend. Let me know when you’re dropping in so you and I can put the world to rights, properly.

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel

Truefitt & Hill 71 St. James’s Street, London, SW1A 1PH

Granted its first Royal Warrant by George III, Truefitt & Hill has been coiffing, shaping, trimming and shaving the heads and beards of the most influential gentleman in London since 1805. Now, I get coiffed elsewhere to be clear, though to be fair I’ve been shaved here and love the experience. Situated just a stone’s throw away from Savile Row, we can relax into the expert hands of barbers who have trimmed the heads of Kings, Princes and on the odd occasion Queens. My recommendation would be the traditional hot towel wet shave. Lasting 30 minutes, it is the ultimate start to your Savile Row day or a pick-me-up after a day of sightseeing. I wet shave routinely anyway and, if I say so myself, have mastered the art. This is the only place that replicates that baby smooth sensation without any of the effort. A real close shave in the right of sense…

Saturday in the shop, a few visitors today. Lunch and wedding plans to sort. John Smedley. London town visit. Simpsons - Grand Divan, looking forward to dinner. Packing for overnight. Monet Studio on The Strand. New suit, big reveal. Book content. Measure, first fittings, second and the big reveal - for the book. Many ties to choose from plus two shirts and seersucker jackets. There’s more…

Read more

I have a question/observation that I would very much like your take on. I am contemplating my packing list for an upcoming 2 week cruise on Queen Anne in The Grills. Iceland and British Isles so chilly mixed in with the sun ( I hope). Looking at what clothes to take with an emphasis on smart evening attire and relaxed yet still smart during the day I realised I have too many clothes and shoes. I can’t see the wood for the trees so to speak and as a consequence some things I have had a few years yet are hardly worn. Probably a throwback to younger days when saving things ‘for best’ I have often not worn something, as much as I should. What is your take on this, is less truly more and the capsule wardrobe is king or should we indulge our interest and hobby and spend more time in fine tailoring establishments and the footwear emporiums of middle England? All the best, Will

Good morning Will, great to hear from you and sounds like a wonderful trip by the way. Seems to me you’re raising a number of questions, a couple of which strike me often…

We spend time away quite a bit and what to pack gets me every time. Back in the day I tried to get in the habit of setting out my outfit the previous night. Thing is I quickly appreciated how often I’d change my mind; swap my lone white shirt out for a blue one, ditch a wool necktie for a knit and return the oxfords for loafers. Needless to say I gave up on ‘organised’ and reverted to type, back to organic. I’m largely instinctive, very much in the moment, in what I want to wear. This becomes magnified when packing for a trip, bearing in mind what I want to wear today is influenced by mood, so who knows how I’ll feel in 10 days time. We’re off to London for an overnight jolly at the weekend and that’s difficult enough!

I suppose there’s an element of what I should do and what in actual fact happens… When packing I should document the likely scenarios/events I’m to encounter and note a corresponding list of clothes and footwear, ticking off items that can be used more than once, therefore elevating them up the list and ultimately in to the case. It’s likely however, that I’ll not do a list - suffer with a ‘mind melange’ and chuck as much ‘shit at the wall’ to cover every eventuality, including mood swings. This is only policed by the baggage allowance, ability to shut the case and whether I’m able to physically drag the thing from house to car to terminal.

Save for best, or ‘Sunday best’ certainly resonates with me and I believe it to be a legacy of my grandparents. They were born before the first World War, when money was tight (some things never change) and a ‘sew and mend’ culture was the norm. A new pair of shoes would only be bought out of necessity and solely worn for church - Sunday best. My parents were born before World War 2, in 1934, right in to this mindset reinforced further by clothes and food rationing which ended in 1949 and 1954 respectively. I was inevitably going to be a product of my environment and eventually rebelled; I’ve mentioned elsewhere smuggling a pair black platform shoes out of the house to wear to school - Sunday best on a Monday. I enjoyed the admiring glances and kind comments from the girls though I was glad not to be caught by my dad.

I later came to appreciate that nice things are for wearing, not for looking at. I also feel better in them, they raise my game which is a major factor. After all we come by this mortal coil just once...

With regard to having too may pairs of shoes or clothes this tends to happen, in my experience, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it’s being mindful of what we already have. Buying a pair of trousers only to realise I already had a similar pair at home is quite simply ludicrous. In this regard you can have too much of a good thing. Secondly, it’s one of resource - spotting a pair of shoes that I adored and disappointingly realising they were out of reach I’d often make do with a less expensive pair.

Buying once and buying well, a capsule wardrobe if you will, will always win the day as will availing ourselves of the finest suits, shirts and shoes. After all, life is too short.

Right, I’ll now get pack to my packing for London, the beautiful one and I have a dinner date at Simpson’s Grand Divan no less.

Must ensure I’ve packed that tie. My ‘Sunday best’!

Hope that’s useful

Best,

Nigel