It’s always “Polo Country” this and “Armani Collezione” that, but no one seems to be looking at one of the most underrated 2nd hand brands of them all - Orvis. Founded in Manchester, Vermont in 1856, Orvis began as a bait and tackle shop serving the sportsmen of Bennington County. While they wouldn’t branch into clothing until the 1940s, they were the first business to launch a mail-order catalogue, beating Sears Roebuck to the punch by nearly 20 years.

They’ve always been a fly-fishing business, with a large part of their market focused on hardware. Unlike some of their contemporaries from 100+ years ago like L.L. Bean and Abercrombie & Fitch, Orvis has remained a sport-focused business with very few attempts to stray away from their target customer. In my opinion, this is one of the key characteristics that makes Orvis one of the most underrated brands on the second hand market.

Given their utility-focused nature and penchant for pockets, zips, buttons, fun details, and hearty fabrics, some of their older pieces could easily be mistaken for A. Presse, Kaptain Sunshine, Engineered Garments, South2West8, and so on.

Don’t believe me?

Here are a few side-by-side examples of high-end menswear pieces next to some vintage Orvis I found surfing on eBay. and this just scratches the surface.

70+ Vintage Orvis Pieces

I spent the past few days periodically scraping eBay for some of the best Orvis pieces that look like they could’ve been bought from your favourite menswear boutique. Below you’ll find access to all of those items in a custom store-front I made on eBay, let me know if you like it better/worse than my old format of manually adding links/images. Paid subscribers will find a few more pictures of some of my favourite items off the list, and a link to all the items pictured and much more.

and if you like this article…

2nd Hand Round-Ups:

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The second episode of In House is now live, and it focuses on the work of generalist craftsman Jacob Boyer-Pomerance, aka Le Cacti. Bicycle frame builder, cobbler, eyewear maker, sewer, designer, and fabricator.

The line between what is and isn’t considered “legitimate” in the world of clothing, furniture, and design as a whole is very thin. We often rely on signalling that surrounds a product to decide whether or not it’s bonafide, the-real-deal, and/or “worth it”. This signalling could include the praise of respected individuals, association with other products in advertising or in a retail space, the packaging it comes in, the way its photographed, the font choice on the website its displayed on; in short, branding.

Logically, this makes sense. If a maker is intentional about how they display the things they’ve worked so hard to create, they must’ve worked very hard on the things themselves, right? If a store I trust, or a person I respect has decided to include that item in their curation then of course I’ll hold it in higher regard. Especially since we’ve entered a world where we can make large purchases without physically interacting with a product, it’s logical that we rely so heavily on secondary measures of quality to judge the legitimacy of a product. In spite of this, I think we’ve entered a new era where it’s increasingly unwise to rely so heavily on branding when determening legitimacy. For better or worse, good branding has become more and more accessible. It’s easier than ever to rip font and colour inspiration off of Pinterest, use some YouTube tutorials to take good photos, throw it in a Shopify template and get some custom packaging off of Aliexpress. It’s easier to surround bad product with good branding rather than to make truly great product.

This becomes even more apparent in the world of handcraft. If you’ve been following my coverage over the past few months you’ll know I’ve become enthralled with the world of handcraft, and the individuals making their living off of it. One thing that’s struck me as a newly minted consumer/patron of individually crafted items is that I have to adjust my expectations regarding branding. When you’re a one-person shop, you have to wear many hats: bookkeeper, photographer, customer service coordinator, manufacturer, marketing manager, shipping & logistics operator, etcetera. The more time spent performing auxiliary tasks is directly related to less time spent crafting items and developing artisanal skillsets. Unlike a large company that delegates these auxiliary tasks to other employees so that their creators can create, the individual artisan must divide their time appropriately. In some cases, there’s an inverse relationship between legitimacy and the clean-cut, sterile, canned & sealed “branding” we consumers are accustomed to.

This became especially apparent when I filmed Episode 2 of In House with the generalist artisan Jacob Boyer-Pomerance, aka Le Cacti. Unlike a lot of specialist artisans, Jacob’s craft is defined by his breadth and depth of knowledge. Beginning with an obsession with forging and knife-making at a young age, Jacob cut his teeth professionally as a bespoke bike frame builder. In recent years he’s expanded his practice to include technical clothing/accessories, vegetable tanned footwear, home objects, bespoke cast eyewear, along with ad-hoc freelance work.

I think there’s a bit of a misconception around generalists. Colloquially people throw around the phrase “Jack of all trades, master of none” to insinuate that one who doesn’t dedicate themselves to a single pursuit can’t excel in any pursuit. Ironically, the full quote is:

“A Jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.”

While I think both statements and their insinuations have merit depending on the case, I think we’re more reticent to trust and accept generalists because we think that their depth of knowledge can’t possibly be that deep when compared to a true specialist. What this notion ignores is that a generalist’s various practices are not mutually exclusive. The experience and knowledge gleaned from learning a new craft cross-pollinates into their existing skillset. Some of the most interesting things humans have created have been the product of generalists blending influences and techniques from two very different disciplines. While I think true mastery and pin-point focus on a singular goal is noble and deserving of respect, I don’t think it’s the only way to approach a craft.

The result of Jacob’s broad range of obsessions has led to a deep, innate understanding of the materials he works with. He’s gained a subconscious intuition around what metal alloy will be right for a pair of glasses frames, how much it should be worked, what it should be treated with and so on. He can decide the type of steel and appropriate thickness of tubing for a bicycle frame based on his client’s build, ride style, and wants. Jacob is laser accurate where it counts, but relies heavily on the feel he’s developed after a decade of working with materials.

All this to say, a lot of what Jacob does is entirely custom. He’ll make an entirely novel, one of a kind eyewear shape based on someone’s face. The result isn’t a “product” the traditional sense. Despite a (very fair yet) higher price point, it won’t come in a fancy box with a warranty card and branded tissue paper. A large part of Jacob’s output isn’t standardized in the way that most products are - that is a feature, not a bug. It’s the result of him performing nearly every step of the production process by hand, and making changes and adjustments based on the individual client’s needs.

A big reason why I encourage individuals to shop with small creators and observe their craft is because you gain more understanding of what you’re paying for at a larger scale. While we’re so obscured from the way things are made at an industrial level, the artisan’s practice is almost always more transparent. One thing that’s glowingly apparent is that every step contributes to the final cost. We’re subconsciously comforted by nice packaging, but would we still want it if it were itemized on our receipt? An extra $6.50 for a monogrammed box? $11.75 for a screen printed dust bag? I’m not saying this is what Jacob or other artisans do, but rather that their decision to opt out of heavy branding is often for the purity of their craft and to not pass cost onto the consumer. Not everyone approaches branding the same way in the artisan space, but it’s something to expect.

These were just a few thoughts I’ve been mulling over since filming the episode with Jacob. I hope you all enjoy watching it (likecommentsubscribe).

IN THIS ARTICLE

you will find the following

• Resources for discovering 2nd hand outdoor gear.

• Interesting imagery of the era.

• 68 vintage outdoor brands, many are quite obscure.

• A link to 100+ listings of 2nd hand outdoor gear which I personally curated.

The outdoor clothing/accessories industry is a particularly special faction of the clothing industry because it pushes newness and a need to consume by marketing its utility. Almost like Apple with their iPhones or Mercedes with cars, the outdoor gear industry uses rational, function-based messaging as to why you need their new product and should get rid of your old one. Accelerated by the gorpcore wave, there’s also been an increased prevalence of associating novel aesthetic trends with technological advances to increase the feeling that “I need that new thing”. Lighter weight, more waterproof, new pockets, a better fit, proprietary material technology: the outdoor industry is able to push for newness under the guise of performance when in reality, a lot of what’s out there is pretty damn good.

Now I’m not saying that there aren’t incredible technological advances being made in the world of textiles and garment/bag/gear construction. Nor am I saying that there aren’t a bunch of really interesting cottage/independent makers leveraging these new technologies in really cool ways. If you’ve got the money and/or perform activities at such an extreme level that you need the best of the best, more power to you, go get that. But I hear a lot of folks in my own life say that they’re hesitant to get into outdoor activities like hiking or camping because the gear is so cost prohibitive. Go into MEC/REI and try and get outfitted for a weekend through hike and you could easily walk away a few thousand dollars lighter without even having the very best gear.

This is why I wanted to compile a list of all the great brands you can search for to find cool, functional outdoor gear on the 2nd hand market. Many of the world’s most prolific outdoor brands began with a few hippies, a sewing machine, and a garage. While the likes of The North Face, Jansport, and Patagonia turned those humble operations into multi-national businesses, others remained that way or died out completely. Regardless of which way they went, there are some really cool defunct brands on this list that you’ve likely never heard of, and they’re priced quite reasonably.

Not only is a lot of vintage/2nd hand outdoor gear still relevant from a technical standpoint, but I think there’s a whole host of aesthetic properties that are incredibly cool to appreciate. Like I mentioned there are a number of different small, niche, independent brands from the 70s, 80s, and 90s that made some really wacky and cool gear that you can find for not that much money. As an entry-point into outdoor hobbies, I think these good-looking bits of outdoor gear have a dual function of looking interesting and functioning well when used for their intended purpose. Below I’ve included some choice looks from that era.

In addition, if you want to get some good inspiration and reference some of the literature/catalogs these brands put out in their heyday, I highly recommend checking out the Outdoor Recreation Archive which was a huge resource in compiling this article.

This round-up consists of 68 brands, first I’ll start with the obvious (Patagonia, LL Bean etc.), then move onto a few of the heritage brands (Filson, Willis & Geiger etc.), before finishing with some more obscure technical brands (Berghaus, Millet etc.)

AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ARTICLE you’ll find a curated page linked with over 100 vintage outdoor gear listings including many of the ones pictured in this list!

Articles You May Enjoy

Obvious:

• LL Bean

• Patagonia

• Helly Hansen

• The North Face

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Most of y’all probably know me as the freckled Canadian guy yapping about clothing, or watches, or interior design on Instagram and TikTok. Since 2021, I’ve been making short form videos on my interests, and I’ve been doing it as a full time “job” since 2022 (alongside other gig work). In 5 years of posting a lot has changed, both in the online space, and in my personal life. I began posting at 19 and am now 24; I’ve gone through the chaos of my early 20s, and the hardening of my frontal lobe with this online platform at my disposal. I spent years working with Aaron Levine on everything from consulting projects, to collaborations, to his namesake label. For a time I thought that I’d ween off of content creation and pursue a “real” job in the fashion world via that avenue.

Ever since beginning to make videos, and especially since going full time, I’ve been quite coy about my profession. I think everyone understandably rolls their eyes and scoffs when they hear the words “content creator” or “influencer”. I’ve struggled to consider what I do legitimate. I tell my parents friends or my friends parents I “work in online marketing” or that I’m “a consultant”. Starting this Substack was a big push in trying to legitimize what I do. I wanted to build a platform that people could reference, find helpful. My Substack began with the core idea that anyone who subscribes will buy better things and save far more money than their subscription costs - not to be too cocky but I think I’ve achieved that goal (and I will continue to, don’t worry the articles aren’t stopping).

But in spite of my bashful disposition regarding my job, I’ve come to the conclusion that I love what I do, and I don’t want to stop doing it. Say what you will about the world of new media, but online video content isn’t going anywhere, and I want to take my platform to bigger and better places. Most people have followed me because I give good consumer advice, I point them to good brands, I teach them about shopping second hand, and generally how to buy better lasting, better looking items. Lately I’ve wanted to cast a wider net. I think it’s important to have simple, accessible, actionable videos and articles, but along with those, I want to go deeper.

Since moving to Montréal 4 years ago, I’ve met an incredible amount of talented creatives of all different disciplines. Metalwork, jewelry making, glass blowing, ceramics, furniture making, lighting, stained glass, and more. You’ll find a lot of them mentioned in this article, but suffice to say this city is so packed with talent, and almost nobody is showing it off. In the global conversations of design you always hear about London, Paris, Milan, New York, but Montréal is seldom recognized for the immense amount of diverse craft it harbours. In a broader sense, Canada is seldom thought of in any regard for its creative output. Many Canadians aren’t aware of the amount of great designers, artisans, artists, and craftspeople operating in their own country.

Along with my desire to share the talent of my countryfolk, I’ve talked at length in the past few months about enshittification within fashion/design, and how luxury doesn’t mean much anymore. Not everyone has the disposable income to buy domestic handmade items, but many of those who do have the money are opting to spend it on brand-dependent luxury goods made by one of the world’s largest conglomerates. We’ve become so alienated from the production of items in our every day life, and that’s led us to forget that our purchases can directly impact the people in our community if we so choose. Every $2,500 spent on a Restoration Hardware veneer night table is $2,500 not spent with a local woodworker who’ll a) make a better product and b) spend that money locally rather than pay it out to shareholders.

In House

And this brings me to my show, In House. I wanted to make a series looking at this class of creatives making things for a living. Not only learning about the nature of their craft but also about who they are as a person, the philosophies they design and make with, and what it’s like to do this for a living. The idea is to both re-kindle our understanding and connection with craft, and introduce you folks to some really cool people that you can support if you so choose.

Season 1 focuses on Montréal: not only did it make sense to start in one of the most densely-creative cities in the country, but I also couldn’t afford to do it anywhere but where I live. Over 7 episodes we get to spend time with 7 different individuals:

1. La Maison Vitrailliste - Léa Grantham is a stained glass artist known for her custom window pieces that can be found in some of the city’s best restaurants, and her collection of stained glass lighting.

2. Le Cacti - Jacob Boyer-Pomerance is a multi-faceted, “generalist” maker dipping into a variety of disciplines from bespoke eyewear to vegetable-tanned footwear, custom bike frames, clothing, home objects, and more.

3. Stamátios - One of the most recognizable talents in the local design scene, Stam designs and hand-crafts stunning contemporary lighting out of his Mile-Ex studio.

4. Gideons Jeans - A rare breed, Gideon makes every garment he sells from start to finish, pulling from a small archive of deadstock fabrics and using many of his dozen-plus vintage sewing machines to bring the item together.

5. David Raymond - Between his co-founded agency Procedures and his solo work, David has built a reputation off of his sleek and functional style, often leveraging local aluminum machining to execute his designs.

6. Igor Zigor - With one of the most distinct work styles I’ve seen, Igor Zigor’s organic-gothic design language is brought about with some truly Quebecois materials and methods.

7. Milo & Dexter - The only multi-person company in Season 1, Jobair Jaber’s label has set its sights on reviving the currently broken supply chain of wool and wool garments in Canada.

As you can see Episode 1 is out now, and we’ll be rolling out a new episode every 2ish weeks until the season concludes. We’re already starting the planning for Season 2 which should take us on the road provided we win the grant we’re applying for and/or can scrape together some sponsorship funds.

I decided to self-fund this project because I wanted to take a shot at this idea, and wanted to make sure it was done right. Is it gauche to use my season budget as a clickbait title? Sure. But if it gets some of y’all to watch the show, then so be it. In all seriousness I wanted to be transparent about the budget behind this series to give y’all an idea of what went into it and the amount of people that dedicated time. While $25k is a lot of money in personal terms, it’s not a huge budget in TV production terms. While it’s living on YouTube, I wanted it to feel like a proper TV show. On each shoot we had a team of 2 camera people, 1 sound person, 1 production assistant, and a producer. Of course all of this had to get edited as well. Not to mention my lovely partner Bex who did illustrations, and my best friend Lew who wrote the theme song and proved to be a great sounding board. Huge thanks to everyone who worked on the show and was willing to work with my somewhat limited budget to bring it to life.

Directed By: Nolan Daniel White, Ellie Charette

Produced By: Nolan Daniel White, Abby White, Desolé Collective

Line Producer: Isabella Maldonado

Associate Producer: Thomas Lewis

Director of Photography: Camillo Lunas

Sound: Ellie Charette

Camera Operators: Camilo Luna, Fedya Vinkovetsky

Production Assistant: Martina Velez Perez

Editing & Colourgrading: Isabella Maldonado

Theme Song: Thomas Lewis

Illustrations: Bex Levesque, Isabella Maldonado

Logo & Branding: Connor David Fitzgerald

I have no idea whether people are going to watch this, whether it’ll be a complete flop or not, if we’ll be able to get enough money for a second season, or what. What I do know is no matter what, I don’t regret it. Looking forward to hearing everyone’s thoughts, please leave any comments/suggestions below.

Oh and LIKE, COMMENT, SUBSCRIBE, AND HIT THAT BELL.

As promised, I’ve put together a list of 2nd hand micro check garments, whether you’re budget conscious, eco conscious, or both. Any time I do a feature on new items I like to offer a round-up of vintage alternatives just to show how easy it is to find good looking, affordable used versions of the things I feature. I write these lists as soon to posting as possible so that the listings don’t expire, but if they are expired, just check out the seller’s account, it’s very possible that it got reposted if it didn’t sell.

If you like these curated lists of 2nd hand/vintage items, here are some links to other round-ups I’ve done:

2nd Hand Round-Ups:

Outerwear:

1. London Fog Jacket, Green Houndstooth, Size L - $33

2. Vintage 1940s Woolrich Mackinaw Herringbone Check Wool Shirt Jacket - $175

3. CHUMS Hello Wear Micro Grid Quarter Zip Anorak, Size S - $61

4. Vintage Recipro Fullzip Checker Flannel, Size M - $26

5. Vintage LL Bean Brown Checkered Wool Blend Long Coat, Size S - $150

6. Vintage Burberry Field Coat Checkered, Size M - $150

7. Vintage First Down Checkered Jacket, Size S - $79

8. Vintage Tactical Utility Jacket Four Pocket, Size M - $54

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Whenever I’m adding something new to my wardrobe, I try and take into consideration cross-compatibility. It’s fun to have a few statement pieces that only work with a few items, but generally speaking I like having as many options as possible. The more versatile my items, the more potential combinations I have, and therefore the more likely I’ll actually wear said items.

Obviously the most versatile items are plain fabrics, but it’d be no fun if I didn’t have a bit of pattern in the mix. As of late, I’ve been getting as much microcheck as I can get my hands on. While the definition is loose, I consider a microcheck to be anything with a repeating check width of maybe a half inch or less, or an inch with less colour-contrast. Generally speaking it should fit the bill of a non-solid-solid: a pattern with a small enough scale that you can almost treat it as a solid when styling. This makes it super easy to work with because adding bigger checks, stripes of any kind, and most other patterns/prints won’t make your outfit too busy.

There’s been a big resurgence of microcheck items in the menswear space, especially in the realm of light outerwear and shirting. Today I’ve put together a list of 27 well made, contemporary microcheck items across Outerwear, Tops, and Bottoms. The list includes some of my favourite, most trusted and referenced brands, along with a few newcomers. I’ll be following this up with a 2nd hand round-up shortly, so stay tuned for that!

And you like this article, here are a few more you may enjoy.

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Outerwear

1. Gander Patchwork Peveril Jacket - $293

2. Story Mfg. Sundae Jacket - $604

3. Wanzesong Funnel Neck Zip Anorak, Organic Cotton Moss - $493

4. Evan Kinori Zip Jacket Two, Kasuri Wool Check - $1,131

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From summer 2019-2024ish, the camp collar short sleeve button up had dudes in a vice grip. Untucked, open with an undershirt, probably with some big print, maybe a hit of embroidery, we all remember those days. Since then, the moodboards have been washed over with The Talented Mr Ripley stills and paparazzi shots of JFK Jr. Big, flowy poplin or oxford-cloth dress shirts, 1/4 of the sleeve rolled up, it’s a good look. But I fear we’ve thrown the baby out with the bath water.

The short-sleeve collared button up first came from tennis players and golfers seeking more mobility and breathability from their garb. The solution was hacking the sleeves off above the elbow. The idea spread quickly - NASA engineers, mechanics, the Boy Scouts all adopted this functional and cool-wearing style of shirt.

When a certain style of garment becomes as permissible as the short-sleeve camp-collar did, we have a tendency to associate the entire garment itself with that trend. It’s understandable, to this day most clothing companies are making their short sleeve shirts with a camp collar, no wonder people have a hard time imagining anything else. But personally, I love a short-sleeved shirt, hell I still rock a camp collar! Iron the collar up, or button it fully, and it just looks like any old short sleeve. Style it differently than the H&M mannequins and it’s got a whole different feel than what you’d expect.

Today I’m going run through a few dozen brands and keywords worth searching for on the 2nd hand market before my round-up of 46 vintage short sleeves, and dozens of brands to look out for. .

And you like this article, here are a few more you may enjoy.

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Vintage & Second Hand

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I can’t think of a more salient example of the ergonomicicization (can you tell I made that word up?) of design than the office chair. I’m no chiropractor, but… have things gone too far? I think that home workspace design has gotten a little too practical. Don’t get me wrong, if you have back issues or some need for a super ergonomic desk chair, just ignore this article, you’re not the intended audience!

This is for anyone who’s gone out looking for a desk chair for their home office and realized how abysmal the options are. Particularly if your “home office” shares a space with your living room, kitchen, dining room, as many do, it’s nice to be able to maintain a certain aesthetic. An otherwise tranquil space can be easily interrupted by a big plastic and mesh roller-chair in the corner.

I’ve put together a list of 15 specific models of vintage desk chairs that I think would look good in almost any home office no matter the size or setting. All of them are available with arm rests and wheeled bases, as those are non-negotiable in my book. And of course, you don’t have to go name-brand/designer, you can often find some really stylish vintage office chairs on FB Marketplace for much cheaper than any notable models. Good luck and happy hunting!

And you like this article, here are a few more you may enjoy.

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1. Herman Miller Soft Pad - Management

My personal choice of office chair, this is one of the most iconic mid-century designs for good reason. It’s made from a cast-aluminum base with 2-inch thick leather/foam cushions and an elastic backing for malleable support. There’s also the high-back executive model which I was tempted to get (largely because of the name), but I’m more partial to the lower profile of the management model.

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We’re suckers for nostalgia. In the realm of clothing, we’re constantly lamenting about “the way things were made”, “the way it used to be”, and I get it. Odds are if you’re subscribed to this newsletter, you own a few pieces of clothing made 40+ years ago, and there’s a marked difference in not only the way it was made, but the way it ages compared to …

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Much to your local army recruiter’s chagrin, you don’t have to enlist to get your hands on the best military surplus clothing, in fact some of the best stuff hasn’t been made for decades. But in spite of that, there’s some great dealers sourcing vintage military surplus in all sorts of configurations and price points, from collectible action-worn militaria, to affordable dead stock surplus. As I covered in my previous article, there’s all sorts of ways to purchase and wear old military gear without looking like you belong on a battlefield. Menswear pulls so much influence from the uniforms of the world, milsurp can be a great way to add to your closet in a relatively sustainable and affordable fashion.

What I like about vintage military surplus is that it’s using what we already have. Many of these items were manufactured decades ago and sat in warehouses. Rather than contributing to a demand for new production, buying military surplus is the clothing equivalent of cooking what’s in your fridge instead of going out to buy more groceries. In this article I’ll be providing a round-up of some trusted military surplus dealers of all different sorts. Additionally, I’ll be to dedicating a second portion of this article to repro brands.

And you like this article, here are a few more you may enjoy.

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From Ralph Lauren to Helmut Lang, the Army/Navy store has been a cited source of inspiration for nearly every notable menswear designer in modern times. Khaki chinos, the fatigue pant, the field jacket… even the modern blazer has roots in military uniforms. The intense functional demands of combat, the various locations of battlefields, different military factions, and the technological progress of the past 100 years have led to vast amounts of surplus gear originally produced for the world’s different militaries. Governments sell these excess garments off in bulk, they often sit for decades, and we lucky folks get to buy them on the cheap!

Most Army/Navy stores have a particular “atmosphere”, somewhere between a conspiracy theorist’s attic and the lobby of a paintball arena. And if they don’t, you’ll probably end up paying a lot more (likely for a higher level of curation). Nonetheless, if you can look past the inevitable “Don’t Tread on Me” flag at your local Army/Navy, you’d be surprised at the variety of clothing you can find for a bargain. Sourcing pieces from different countries, different factions like the Navy or Air Force, and adding in some dress uniform elements can result in an affordable, easy to replicate capsule wardrobe that doesn’t make you look like you have a tripwire around the perimeter of your house.

Today I’m going to run through a 34-item capsule wardrobe I put together of relatively common military surplus pieces you should have no trouble sourcing via a) the links I provide or b) searching on Google/second hand platforms. This list will include the following categories:

• Outerwear

• Shirting

• Sweaters/Fleece

• Tee Shirts

• Pants

• Shorts

• Belts

• Sneakers

• Boots

Stay tuned as I’ll be putting out a list of good military surplus sites and repro brands soon!

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Outerwear:

Outerwear is a definite strength of the military-surplus shop, and while I think this is a good start, these seven items merely make up the topsoil of cool milsurp coats and jackets. There’s a diverse array in this lineup: from ultra-cold weather, to a more utlitarian field jacket, to a warm liner layer, to a minimalist navy zip-up. The only thing I neglected to include here - an officer’s greatcoat. Personally, I find them to be a bit much, although if you swap out the gold buttons for horn/wood they’re a bit more wearable.

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Do you ever walk into a museum and see a finely crafted piece of furniture with delicate inlay details, precise joinery, exotic materials, a painstakingly even finish, and think to yourself “how in the hell did they have the time to do that?” Well, the answer is usually that they were patronized by the wealthy.

Fine arts have long been patronized by the …

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The summer solstice is days away, and we’re in the thick of summer wedding season. Destination or not, the high-heat union marks one of the most challenging, and most googled-about styling obstacles in a man’s life. Not only are you starting with some degree of formal attire - an arduous dress code requiring at least two long-sleeve layers, but you’re c…

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Continuing my blabbing about anoraks and smocks, today I want to dig into the 2nd hand market of one of my favourite subcategories of outerwear. Some of the best smocks you’ll find are available on the 2nd hand market for a fraction of what they’d go for new. You can also find a plethora of interesting military surplus smocks on eBay, Etsy, and milsurp websites, often in deadstock condition.

In this article we’ll be going through:

• 9 of my favourite military smocks,

• brands to search for on the 2nd hand market,

• and 45+ curated vintage listings.

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Military Surplus:

As I’d mentioned in my previous article, you’ll find the DNA of military surplus smocks in pretty much any modern anorak on the market. The idea of an easy-to-manufacture, weatherproof, and sometimes camouflaging final layer has been part of nearly every standard-issue army kit since WWII the world over. You’ll also find some pretty wild specialist smocks for niche divisions of various militaries, these are some of my personal favourites. Below is a list of my favourite 9, and after that we’ll get into some vintage listings.

Royal Navy SBS Canoeist’s Smock

Used by the Royal Navy’s specialist “fold boat” crews in covert operations, these canvas WWII smocks are incredibly scarce, but there are some great reproductions out there.

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There’s something so interesting about an inherently restrictive garment. And no, I’m not talking about those skinny jeans in the back of your closest make you choose between breathing and tying your shoe laces. I mean an item of clothing that has to be styled a certain way, that imposes its form on your body. Like a thick leather jacket - it has to be the final layer, you probably can’t wear a thick sweater underneath it, it’s not versatile but it forces you to get creative with how you wear it. The same goes for anoraks.

Arguably one of the most unpopular styles of light jacket - the anorak is hard to come by. Used interchangeably with the word smock, I consider an anorak to be any piece of pull-over outerwear, aka a jacket/coat that doesn’t have a full zipper/button-up opening. This makes them harder to layer with, harder to get on/off, yet in spite of that they can be the perfect choice for a number of situations.

Today I’ll be going into:

• the history of the anorak,

• its practical use cases,

• how and when I prefer to style an anorak,

• and 18 new anoraks/smocks I’d recommend.

And I’ll be following up shortly with a curated round-up of affordable second hand listings for y’all to peruse. If you enjoy this article, here are a few more for you to check out!

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Brief Origins

The word anorak is an anglicized version of the Greenlandic “annoraaq”, a term used to describe the thick fur/pelt pullovers worn by Inuit and Indigenous peoples within the Arctic Circle. The lack of front closure not only makes them easier to produce, but also far warmer as you don’t have to contend with thinner material near a zipper, nor the gaps created by a button closure. While the origins of this garment style are in extreme weather protection, the contemporary anorak/smock we see today gets most of its DNA from 20th century military developments.

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It’s no secret that I’m a big proponent of 2nd hand clothing for many a reason. More affordable, better quality, a worn-in look, the thrill of the hunt, and so many options to choose from. While I spent a chunk of last week talking about my thoughts on shorts inseams, widths, styles, and some new shorts I’d have in my wardrobe — I want to follow up by focusing on the 2nd hand market. Shorts are one of my favourite things to look for used because they’re so often overlooked in favour of pants. There’s a number of different shorts categories readily available on the 2nd hand market for quite a reasonable ticket.

In this article we’ll be going through:

• Three of my favourite styles of shorts:

  • style inspiration

  • buying advice

  • brands worth looking at

• 50 vintage listings for shorts.

And you like this article, here are a few more you may enjoy.

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My Favourite Vintage Shorts

Here’s a little overview of my three favourite styles, along with some notable brands to look for on the used market.

Outdoorsy Shorts

I love and wear an outdoorsy short for most of my time out in the sun. They’re usually a 60s/70s style cotton twill/canvas cargo, or a more 80s style self-belted nylon climber short. Either way they’re super easy to style, comfortable, breathable, and often come in all sorts of fun summery colours.

Brands: Columbia, Columbia PFG, Patagonia, Gramicci, Nike ACG, Cabela’s, REI, MEC, Timberland, Orvis, Military Surplus, L.L. Bean.

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I don’t know how some of y’all do it, but the second it gets above 25 degrees (that’s ~80F for y’all imperial users), I’m reaching for the shorts. I seriously can’t fathom how some folks do it, sweltering days and they’re in long sleeves and pants. Go to France or Italy in the middle of summer and half the dudes out on the street are covered - sure they’re wearing linen, maybe some lightweight cotton; but they’re looking chic in their trousers while I’m marching around like some camp counsellor. Clearly I don’t harbour any spite towards the cold-blooded.

Shorts can be tough, because they don’t hide much. There’s all this debate about width, about inseam, what’s in, what’s out, it can all be quite confusing. I wanted to set the record straight and take a look at some styles and characteristics of shorts that I find endearing.

In this article we’ll be going through

1. Some tips on styling shorts,

2. Finding the right inseam length + width for you,

3. My favourite styles + some inspiration,

4. New shorts I like,

And I’ll be following this up with a round-up of 50+ second hand shorts listings. If you like this article, here are a few more you may enjoy.

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If you don’t live in a snow-prone climate, you may not relate to the excitement that comes when the last flakes melt into the sewer drain, and your Spring/Summer footwear rotation can finally come out of hibernation. Whether it’s the leather-eating salt, or the past-ankle-height snowbanks that’ll pack any low-top shoe with enough ice to cure a sprained ankle, the vast majority of my shoe rack has been dormant since last November. Now that Spring has long sprung, it’s time to break out the low-tops and show y’all some of my personal favourite pieces of footwear.

While my rotation may be a bit excessive, I believe I’ve gleaned some important insights from my overindulgence. If I were to boil my rotation down to four shoes, it would include the following:

1. A comfy, breathable, good-looking sneaker if you’re walking around a lot, or spending all day on your feet. Bonus points if it has grippy soles and some trail/hiking capabilities (these do not)

2. A classic white sneaker (leather or canvas) you can beat up, and wear with pretty much anything.

3. An unstructured, flexible, soft loafer that works with or without socks.

4. A casual leather shoe that’ll only get better with age.

I know a lot of y’all probably think I’m insane for not including a sandal, but don’t worry I’ll explain my reasoning in a bit. Long story short, in this article I’ll run through the 17 shoes I rotate through in Spring/Summer, and then 10 shoes I have on my wish-list (but will not be purchasing because this shit is getting out of hand)

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Sandals, Mules & Clogs

Rather controversially, I’m not a huuuuge sandal/mule/clog guy. I don’t know if it's the way I walk, the shape of my feet, but they seem to have a hard time staying on my feet. Generally I tend to wear them around the house, on short errands, or if I’m making my way out to the beach. Otherwise, my toes say hidden.

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Over the past year, I’ve grown increasingly obsessed with Canada’s design scene. The Canadian fashion scene has long been a passion of mine, and as I’ve dug deeper into the world of interior design and decor, I’ve found an equally rich wellspring of talent sprawling across this country. There are hundreds of artisans, industrial designers, ceramicists, glass blowers, wood workers, creating some remarkable pieces with their own designs and labour.

As my obsession has grown, I’ve made note of every craftsperson I come across. By following and attending local design shows in Montreal, speaking to artisans themselves, occasionally buying/commissioning a piece, and stalking Instagrams, I reckon I’ve assembled a healthy directory of Canada’s domestic design talent. This will be an ever-growing list of craftspeople and artisan brands in the homeware/design space. I’ve organized the list based on the following categories:

• Lighting (31)

• Ceramics (36)

• Furniture + Decor (51)

• Glassware (7)

• Utensils + Cookware (7)

• Fragrance + Candles (7)

• Textiles + Rugs (11)

Many of the folks on this list are multifaceted creatives and therefore there may be some duplicates and/or overlaps. If an image of their work sparks your interest, their Instagram is hyperlinked, and I encourage you to give them a follow, and even purchase/commission a piece if it’s within your means.

Resources:

I’ve also put together a small list of some resources I’ve used to navigate the Canadian design scene. These are either retailers, design collectives, or shows that host the types of creatives I’m interested in. I hope you enjoy this round-up, and please let me know what else you’d like to read!

Souk

One of Montréal’s most prolific, long lasting contemporary design hubs. They host an annual marketplace that gives a platform for designers to showcase and sell their pieces.

Simons Fabrique 1840

A sub-selection of one of Canada’s largest department stores that focuses on small Canadian made and owned brands.

Ensssemble

A collective including some of Montréal’s finest local talents in the design space. They host periodic shows around Canada, and are a great place to discover folks you may not come across on your own.

Fogo Island Workshops

Run by the world-famous Fogo Island Inn, this is a shop hosting talents producing goods made on Fogo Island, most of which are featured in the Inn itself. If you’re into Maritime folk craft, this is the place to look.

Obakki

While they don’t stock strictly Canadian designers, this BC based company stocks a number of local artisans along with other independents from all around the world.

Index Design

The organizers of Montréal’s design week, they’re a conduit within the local design scene, helping connect designers, artisans, craftspeople, retailers, and customers connect on projects.

DesignTO

Toronto’s annual design festival that occurs every January, with a wide breadth of craftspeople, firms, and specialists in the materials space.

Double Entendre

An exposition group focused on uplifting Canadian designers, putting on occasional in-person shows. Their Instagram is a great way to find up and comers in the space.

Lighting:

La Maison Studio

Stamatios

Huey Lightshop

Juba World

Disamare Studio

AND Ceramic Studio

Laboratoire Textile

Camila Gaza Manly

Anony

Marc-Olivier Desjardins

ZAP/STUDIO

Sauvé Morissette

Studio Darmes

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Ceramics is such an interesting discipline, and I am in awe of the individuals with enough patience to practice it. First you have pottery itself - there’s so much finesse and know-how when it comes to forming and firing stoneware and ceramic goods. One wrong move and you blow up hours of work, potentially taking the rest of the kiln with it. Nothing is promised until that final layer of glaze is fired, and even then you’re dealing with a fragile product that needs to make it to its final home.

Then, you have the depth and breadth of the ceramics field, which you’ll see represented within this list. Material wise, there’s so much to play with in both the composition and treatment of your base substance. In terms of end-use, the world is your oyster. There’s the functional world - plates, bowls, mugs, pencil cups, paint pallets, vases, spoon rests; and then there’s the sculptural world. Some of the most interesting results is when those two words combine.

I’ve rounded up a list of over 30 Canadian ceramicists that make up a diverse array of backgrounds, influences, styles, end uses, and price points. There’s gallery represented artists, function focused producers, and everything in-between. I hope you enjoy, and if you’re after a similar line-up in the world of lighting, or design in general, please see below!

1. Nathalee Paolinelli

2. Pas Mon Style

3. Roxane Charest

4. la poteuse

5. L’Atelier Em

6. MonsieurKoukido

7. Art & Manufacture

8. Atelier Make

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