Preview & artist reception Wednesday, August 19, 2026 (5 - 7 PM)

Opens Third Friday, August 21, 2026 ( 5 - 9 PM) and runs through September 20.

Morocco: A Travelogue Gallery 202 is pleased to present a series of artworks created by seven artists inspired by their travels through Morocco led by Natalie of Gallery 202. The following artists are included in the show: Leslye Discont Arian (mixed media drawings and ceramics), Marjorie Falk (glass), Rosalyn Gholston (ceramics - first time exhibiting), Jennifer Joseph (Recycled Paper Pottery), Jill Milenski (oil pastel drawings), Karen Miraldi (mixed media paintings and collage), and Natalie Rich (jewelry & photography).

The 2025 & 2026 Groups taking in the sights and learning traditional crafts from Moroccan artisans.

Leslye Discont Arian: The crumbling, dusty walls of the ancient Medina are made of straw and clay which inspired the intense sensory texture. The dark alleys and narrow streets of the souk markets within the Medina created the layering – peeling paint, marks, graffiti. Imagine seeing your first box of 64 crayons in spice mounds!

Rosalyn Gholston: My ceramic work is inspired by the geometric ornamentation of North African architecture, Amazigh design traditions, the rhythms of the natural world, and the work of potters across the African diaspora. I use carving as a way to transform simple clay forms into richly textured surfaces. Whether functional or sculptural, these vessels are intended to encourage contemplation. They invite viewers to slow down, look closely, and experience clay as both sculpture and story.

Jennifer Joseph: In Morocco, my artistic senses opened even wider; color, pattern, and handmade objects lit up my imagination and showed me how deeply craft can shape a place. Marrakesh was a cacophony of people, color and art. When I returned home, that sense of creation stayed with me. I was drawn to create every day, letting intuition guide my hands and allowing the process to stay simple and honest.

Jill Milenski: I have always been fascinated by Morocco: the colors, shapes, textures and designs. It was always a dream of mine to visit. When I got the opportunity with Natalie, I jumped at the chance.

Morocco had all the things I loved for my images: color, mystery, beauty. I was taken by the beauty and decoration in every part of life, from textiles, to metalwork, intricate calligraphic painting, and sumptuous textures, smells and tastes.

Karen Miraldi: Travel has a way of changing us - not only through the places we visit, but through the way those places continue to live within us after we’ve returned home. These paintings emerged from an intuitive process of layering paint, collage, drawing, and spontaneous mark-making. Inspired by the colors of the medinas, the rhythm of the souks, the stillness of hidden courtyards, the vastness of the Atlantic coast, and the warmth of the Moroccan people, each piece became less about depicting a place and more about expressing an experience.

Marjorie Falk: Marjorie Falk has degrees in Art History, Printmaking and is Nationally Board Certified in Art Education. Her entire career has been focused on the making and studying about art , teaching about art and artists, and now as docent at The Cleveland Museum of Art. Marjorie creates her landscapes, portraits, collages, and abstract paintings into glass.

Natalie Rich: Leading tours to Morocco was a longtime dream that became a reality in 2025. It is a privilege and an honor to spend uninterrupted time with artists I admire, observing how they see the world. As I continue to reflect, I am grateful for these groups and the incredible days we spent exploring Marrakech, Essaouira, and the Atlas Mountains. Morocco touched all of our hearts and our memories live on through our art. My work features found pottery from the shores of Essaouira. These beautiful discarded fragments are reworked into wearable works of art evoking the spirit of the place they were found.

Details: This exhibit begins with a preview and artist reception on Wednesday, August 19 from 5 - 7 PM and then opens as part of the Third Friday Artwalk at 78^th Street Studios on Friday, August 21 from 5 - 9 PM. The exhibit runs through September 20, 2026.

Gallery 202, 1300 W. 78^th Street, Cleveland OH 44102.

Admission to this event and all the galleries and studios in 78^th Street Studios is free.

For more information: Contact us by phone at 216 407 3685, by email at gallery202cle@gmail.com or visit our website, www.gallery202cle.com. Find a story of our gallery on Instagram, @gallery202.cle.

Gallery 202 is a diversely owned gallery dedicated to exhibiting artwork by under-represented, mis-represented and marginalized artists.

Interested in traveling to Morocco? Follow the Substack for all the details. Spring 2027 dates will be released soon! Read about the 2025 and 2026 retreats here: Substack: Wander With Natalie

Gallery 202 Hours for August:

Wednesday, August 12th: 4 - 7 PM

Saturday, August 15th: 12 - 4 PM

Wednesday, August 19th: 4 - 7 PM ~ 5 - 7 PM Artist Reception and Preview for Morocco: A Travelogue

Third Friday, August 21st: 5 - 9 PM ~ Opening for Morocco: A Travelogue

Saturday, August 22nd: 12 - 4 PM

Wednesday, August 26th: 4 - 7 PM

Saturday, August 29th: 12 - 4 PM

To schedule a private appointment, call 216-407-3685 (Mark) , 406-890-5713 (Natalie) or email gallery202cle@gmail.com

Thank you for reading about our upcoming show at Gallery 202.

See you next week,

Natalie

I grew up in Ashtabula, or Ashtabeautiful as I like to call it in summer, and my high school (now a bunch of boring looking houses) used to stand steps from the festival. How cool to go to a high school with views of Lake Erie. Ashtabula Harbor is home and that’s what I love most about this festival.

How it started:

The Ashtabula Harbor Beach Glass Festival was founded in 2010 by Troy and Lorie Dalrymple, owners of Beaches, a nautical and beach glass themed store on Bridge Street. Troy and Lorie now own the famous Marianne’s Chocolates - be sure to stop by and try some of the dark chocolate sea salt bark.

Meanwhile, my mom was working across the street at DeFina’s The Harbor Store, a lovely gift shop. DeFina’s carried some of my gemstone jewelry and asked if I could make a few pieces with beach glass. I didn’t know how to drill and conveniently, Troy and Lori offered drilling as a service in their studio. Eventually, my dad gave me his old Dremel (I shattered piece after piece at my parents’ dining room table) but finally got the hang of it.

Each year I comb through old photos trying to figure out how many years I’ve been a part of this festival.

Covid was a major disruptor and also marked a big change when Troy and Lori passed the torch to Melody Shiflet of Heartmade Boutique. Melody navigated some rough waters getting through Covid but the festival is stronger than ever. Now, up to 150 beach-themed vendors line Bridge Street every year. With the bascule bridge (or the lift bridge as we call it) as a backdrop, boats sailing along headed to Lake Erie, a variety of local shops, bars, and restaurants, and Walnut Beach steps away, it’s the perfect location for this beloved annual tradition.

Walnut Beach is the premier place to search for beach glass. Years ago, Martha Stewart named Walnut Beach as a good spot to find beach glass (sadly, the article’s link no longer works) and put Ashtabula Harbor on the map. Be sure to allow time to explore this beautiful beach and find some treasures of your own.

Make a day of it: start your morning with a coffee from The Harbor Perk. Work up an appetite shopping the festival and take a lunch break in one of the many wonderful restaurants along Bridge Street (my personal favorite is Nights & Weekends for their wood fired pizza). End your day with a glass at one of the wineries in adjacent Lake County. Did you know Ashtabula County has 19 covered bridges? Download the map and explore.

Here’s a snippet of what I’ll bring to the festival. Most of my glass is sourced from Lake Erie but I also had some Italian sea glass & pottery stashed away along with some Moroccan sea pottery I found in March in Essaouira.

I will also have the “Fill a jar” station where you can hunt for treasures right in my booth. Beach glass, sea glass, pottery, shells, rocks, bricks - all best for crafting, and I threw in 2 bags of lucky stones.

I will have a few rings, very limited, I’m gaining confidence but for me, metalsmithing is a meditative and technical part of jewelry making that I do not want to rush. I love the feeling of working with sterling silver.

In case you can’t make it to the Ashtabula Harbor Beach Glass Festival, you can always find my work (and me!) at Gallery 202 in the 78th Street Studios building. We’re open Wednesdays (4 - 7 PM) & Saturdays (12 -4 PM) and Third Fridays (5 - 9 PM).

I’ll also be at the Vermilion Beach Market, August 7th ( 3 - 8 PM) & August 8th (9 AM - 4 PM)

Mark your calendars: I will be curating a show at Gallery 202 that opens Third Friday, August 21st. It is a group exhibition featuring the artists that joined me in Morocco in 2025 & 2026 (pottery, abstract paintings, oil pastels, ceramics, photography, and jewelry)

Back to the Ashtabula Beach Glass Festival. Booth assignments are provided morning of and I will update my Instagram & Facebook (if I have cell service, lol) with my location (usually close to the corner of Bridge Street and Hulbert Ave.

Here are a few helpful tips from the festival’s Facebook page:

Thank you for reading and I hope to see you this weekend!

~ Natalie

I don’t consider myself a foodie. To me, the best food is simple and fresh. People always ask me what the food is like, and I say, “The vegetables taste like vegetables, only better.” In Morocco, farm-to-table isn’t a trendy term; it’s a way of life. Food can, however, be very polarizing - allergies, sensitivities, likes, and dislikes - choosing restaurants and activities a whole group will love is one of the most stressful parts of planning a retreat. On this retreat (remember, only my second), I felt like we were constantly eating: meals out, meals in, and experiential cooking. Looking back at the smiles, I realize that relaxing around the table and sharing meals is where magic happens: conversations deepen, and friendships are made.

Couscous

Couscous is a famous North African dish made from steamed semolina grains, meat, vegetables, and broth. One thing that sets Moroccan couscous apart is how tiny it is because it is traditionally rolled by hand with only semolina and water. Steaming the couscous over the broth with the meat (lamb, chicken, beef, or fish) and vegetables allows the couscous to become wonderfully fluffy and the broth flavors to be absorbed with the grains. Typical vegetables may include zucchini, carrots, squash, pumpkin, onion, chickpeas, cabbage, sweet potato, tomato, or turnips. Often topped with caramelized onions and raisins, the broth is seasoned with ginger, turmeric, parsley, tumeric, cinnamon, and saffron.

When you book a class at Zawyaty (this time we did Zellige Tile, but you can also take classes in leather and brass), be sure to add on lunch on the terrace. Aziza will spoil you with an unforgettable feast prepared in the tiniest of kitchens. This year, our class fell on a Friday, so couscous with chicken was prepared. Friday is a day of prayer, and families gather to share a couscous meal after the mid-day prayers. It’s a ritual you’ll see throughout the country, and you may even notice couscous as a special at local restaurants.

In all of my past drives to Essaouira (about 3 hrs), we’ve stopped for a break at very nice rest stops designed for groups. This year, we were in for a treat. Akal Ferme was welcoming guests. Akal Ferme is the farm for Triskala, one of my favorite restaurants of all time. The farm was gorgeous and featured a daily fixed menu. Dining in the garden was magical. Standouts from this meal for me were the homemade kombucha, fennel soup, the array of salads, and panna cotta (my favorite), all presented in a simple, beautiful way, prepared fresh from the daily harvest. This stop was the perfect break between Marrakech and Essaouira, and it set the tone for the relaxed seaside vibes of Essaouira.

Tagine & Pastilla & Tea Ceremony with the Amal Women’s Training Center

Tagine is a word you’ll see a lot on menus in Morocco. Tagine is the word for both the dish and the clay pot in which the dish is cooked. The combinations of meat, vegetables, and usually nuts and dried fruits are endless in this traditional North African stew. The shape of the tagine traps the heat inside the pot, causing the meat and vegetables to braise with little liquid. Some common combinations are lamb and prunes or chicken with preserved lemon and olives.

Pastilla is both a sweet and savory meat pie with an outer shell similar to phyllo dough, and the one in the cooking class was filled with chicken, cinnamon, and almonds. Yum.

Tea Ceremony

The Moroccan Tea Ceremony, or Atay, is a ritual of Moroccan hospitality. The famous mint tea is usually made from a base of Chinese Gunpowder tea, fresh mint, and sugar. When a fresh pot is made, you’ll notice the host pours a cup and then immediately dumps it right back into the teapot. If I remember correctly, the first pour is extremely bitter. If you’re served the first pour, it’s a sign your host just isn’t that into you. Two more cups are poured and dumped back into the pot to mix the tea. The tea is poured from a great height, often met with “oohs and aahhs”. Some say the higher the pour, the more respect for the guest!

The Amal Women’s Training Center is an incredible organization dedicated to empowering women to enter the workforce and to serve the community. Amal also continues to do extensive work to support communities still rebuilding from the 2023 earthquake. A half-day at Amal is a wonderful way for your family or group to learn about Moroccan cooking and to gain insight into the beautiful tea ceremonies. Our group made fish tagine, chicken pastilla, chicken tagine, and beef tagine. While the tagine is cooking on the open fire, we enjoyed coffee from the Sign Language Coffee cart and a tour of the garden to pick herbs before the tea ceremony. After the tea ceremony (who’s going to try to recreate the cookies?), we enjoyed the fruits of our labor with a beautiful shared lunch.

I wrote more extensively about our day at Saida Berber House in the previous post on Experiential Learning. However, the beautiful lunch prepared in a traditional kitchen must be highlighted. Wow. We learned the bread is made on the side of the ovens to keep from burning. The bread, combined with the olive oil from the community press that we visited on our hike, was a 10/10. As we begged for seconds on the bread, we enjoyed lentil soup, a vegetable tagine, and tasty olives from the family grove.

Ras El Hanout

Ras El Hanout is the traditional spice. It translates from Arabic as “Head of the Shop” or “Top Shelf” and is often used in couscous, tagines, and many other dishes throughout Morocco. The owner of the spice shop is to put his “best” spices in the mix, and no two are the same! The mix is warm, aromatic, and earthy. The Ras El Hanout mix may include turmeric, cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, anise, nutmeg, allspice, clove, cayenne, and black pepper. Some mixes can have between 30 and 80 spices!

When in Essaouira, enjoying fresh fish is a must. We started at a spice shop, where our hosts Abdou and Ishak from Moga Activities kicked off our evening with a tea ceremony. Next, we learned about the different types of spices (varieties of Ras-El-Hanout) used in Moroccan food, particularly fish. We continued to their restaurant, where a fish feast was prepared. Dinner was incredible, and so was the sunset. We had an absolute blast with our hosts and can’t wait to reconnect next year.

Other notable moments include the incredible breakfasts and dinners prepared by the team at Maison 28! The consensus was that the shakshuka was the favorite, and we loved the zucchini soup. There were always little surprises at breakfast in addition to eggs cooked in separate tagines - one with olive oil and one with butter to respect everyone’s dietary needs. We were able to try a couple of Moroccan wines - red and white - the white was preferred. The team even surprised Julie with a birthday cake!

When you travel, especially in a planned group adventure, the best moments are spontaneous and unplanned. Here are a couple of other fun food memories:

Heidi made friends at the local bread cart. She was asking how to make the bread and if it used yeast. With a little pantomiming and help from a shopkeeper, Heidi now knows the secret to baking Moroccan bread.

Jennifer and Heidi decided to take care of dessert for the crew by purchasing a variety of chocolates from a little convenience shop.

Coffee

Bacha Coffee was founded in 1910. It is located inside Dar el Bacha, the Museum of the Confluences. Bacha Coffee sources the finest coffee from all over the world and is a feast for the senses. To enter Bacha Coffee, you must buy a ticket to Dar el Bacha. If you don’t arrive in time for the first sitting, you are given a buzzer and can explore the museum while you wait.

Bacha Coffee isn’t great for large groups, making it an optional activity. We were, of course, all in for the experience. After lining up an hour before opening, we were rewarded with the first seating. We spoiled ourselves with a decadent breakfast. The coffee jelly, cream for the coffee, every little detail on point - it’s the most wonderful experience. The space is incredibly beautiful, the service impeccable, the coffee delightful, and the desserts otherworldly.

How did I almost forget the date shakes at Cafe Clock?!

We went for storytelling, but the story that’s living on is comparing date shake recipes, trying to get this one right. Jenniffer also tried the famous camel burger (believe the reviews, it tasted like a regular burger), and it was a dinner full of laughs and trying new things.

Phew, from writing this, it seems like all we did was eat! I’m hungry now. Time to sprinkle some Ras El Hanout on my eggs, brew a Bacha pour over (there’s a gift shop in the Marrakech airport now, fyi!), close my eyes, and dream about the moments that make Morocco so special.

Thank you for reading. I hope this post gives you an idea of what you’ll eat if you choose to visit Morocco.

What’s a favorite cuisine you’ve discovered?

~Natalie

P.S. A huge thank you to the group for sharing their food photos!

The artisan experiences are always my favorite days. I have Melanie of Maison 28 to thank for connecting me with all of these wonderful organizations.

ZAWYATY

I intentionally scheduled the Zellije tile class at Zawyaty at the beginning of the itinerary to give us all insight into how these tiles are constructed. This keeps the artisan front of mind when we’re visiting historic sights, most of which are covered in tiles.

The team at Zawyaty scaffolded the class perfectly. We were given baskets of tiles, a printed template, and a metal frame. This took the pressure off. Of course, I spent the night before restless, wondering what colors to choose. I learned that if we had free rein on colors and patterns, we’d still be there working!

I ended up with a basket weave of white, maroon, and blue. Was it more difficult than it looked? Yes. Did I have to break every rule to figure it out? You know it. With the help of Burçin, Mustapha, Hind, and Abdelfettah, we all successfully walked away with our own masterpiece and appreciation for the hands that decorated and continue to decorate Morocco.

The big reveal:

Zawyaty’s mission is to create work opportunities and training for the youth of Marrakech. You can learn more here: Fonoun Zawya. Pro-tip: Be sure to book lunch on their terrace as part of your experience. Our class fell on a Friday so Aziza cooked a traditional lunch with couscous.

FAKHARA ARTISAN VILLAGE

The original itinerary included a stop in Safi’s Pottery Village. Safi recently experience devastating flooding and the Medina is being rebuilt. We pivoted to the Fakhara Artisan Village which features not only pottery, but also Zellije tile, and baskets. Many of the artisans were on break following the Eid al-Fitr holiday. Morocco had designated Monday as a holiday and we learned most artisans take a week off to travel back to their villages to spend time with family.

SAÏDA BERBER HOUSE

Located at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains, Saïda Berber House in Amizmiz is a sanctuary. Saïda’s mission is to preserve Berber culture by welcoming guests to her home in the village where she grew up. There are many offerings, and you can even stay at Saïda’s - you can view the website here: Saïda Berber House

Our perfect day started with a welcoming tea ceremony, a weaving workshop, lunch (prepared in a traditional kitchen), and a hike to a mountain village to visit the olive oil mill.

I was delighted to meet Saïda. Saïda partners with the women of the village who work in ancestral weaving techniques to advocate for fair wages and a safe space to gather and work. There is currently a GoFundMe to help build a permanent facility for the weavers if you’d like to chip in.

ZWAQ ART

Zwaq Art offers workshops in traditional Moroccan painting and has added classes in leather bag making. The group chose between painting a mirror or a small tray.

Abdel explained every step starting with choosing a stencil and then using a chalky powder to set the pattern in place. This step always defies my ideas of using a stencil since it forces you to follow all lines free hand. There is a special way to hold the donkey hair brush to apply the paint. Zoufiq, a master of Moroccan painting with over 40+ years of experience joined in to give us tips on adding details to make our designs really pop.

Zwak Art’s mission is to revive and share the ancient Moroccan Zwaq painting by hands-on workshops and community storytelling. One can’t help by stop by Zwaq’s beautiful shop in the souks with colorful trays hanging in the alley. Treat yourself to a traditional, hand-painted work of art or stay for a while and make your own.

I cherish the days we spend working alongside artisans and learning the traditional ways. Grateful for these partnerships and the way they each open their beautiful spaces to educate and deepen the appreciation for Moroccan craftsmanship. There are no shortcuts, only creativity, tradition, and clever problem-solving. As artisans pass their skills from generations to generations, the cultural heritage is preserved. As visitors, we can support these organizations by slowing down, spending time, listening, learning, and making.

Next up…the food!

Thank you for reading,

Natalie

It seems like a lifetime ago that I gathered Group 2 for the Moroccan Meet-and-Greet Dinner. Since we all live within driving distance (some walking distance!) I like to get the group together to meet and share travel tips. Yes, if you choose to travel with me, I’ll cook you Harira, Moroccan Chicken, and, coming in 2027, orange blossom cake (I’m determined).

Magic happens when you rally a group of intelligent, compassionate, creative, talented, and radiant women for an adventure. It’s a great privilege to do what I do. I’m new to the game of travel, but I can safely say that my favorite part is watching women shine. Morocco awakens our senses, pushes us to try new things, welcomes us into its beautiful culture, and makes us question our Western ways. If the group comes home with a broadened lens, a softer heart, and a yearning to explore more, I’ve done my job. Morocco also beckons you to return - the stakes were high with Pam F. and Karen visiting Morocco for a second time.

Meet the group:

The itinerary:

Days 1 - 3: Marrakech

Day 4 - 6: Essaouira

Day 7: Marrakech

Day 8: Day trip to Amizmiz, Atlas Mountains

Day 9: Marrakech

I curated this itinerary with artists and makers in mind to learn more about the art, artisans, and mission-driven organizations who create the famous zellige tiles, carpets, and traditional Zwak painting. I also incorporated food experiences to learn about the traditional cuisine. I try my best to get to know each member of the group personally to add a little something they will love, as well as sprinkling in a couple of surprises.

Flights: Cleveland → Atlanta → Marrakech on Delta ~ Delta is running a new, seasonal flight from Atlanta to Marrakech. Despite a partial government shutdown withholding pay from TSA employees, we were grateful not to have any major issues or delays.

Arriving in Marrakech feels a lot like when Dorothy wakes up in Oz: the sky is bright blue, and the city walls are shades of terracotta and salmon. The group flew together and arrived on time! I walked to the meet-up point to meet them and show them to their new home away from home in Marrakech.

Maison 28 in Marrakech is a sanctuary. Tucked away in a historic neighborhood of Marrakech, Maison 28 provides much-needed calm amongst the chaos. The guestrooms are works of art, individually curated by owner/designer Melanie Royals, with hand-picked and often custom touches.

The basket-lined terrace doubles as a cozy reading nook when not utilized for meals.

A second terrace provided incredible views of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains. All that to say, what truly stands out at Maison 28 is the team. Rachid, Mohamed, Najat, and Sana, year after year, continue to provide warm, gracious hospitality, beautiful meals, and help with shopping for local goods.

I can’t say enough good things about Maison 28. I am beyond grateful to share this gem with the groups. When Maison 28 isn’t fully booked with groups, the rooms are available on Airbnb.

Our first day consisted of TCB (taking care of business), i.e., getting cash and getting the lay of the land. Morocco is a cash society. The Moroccan Dirham (MAD) is a closed currency, and the best way to get money is to either use an exchange (DO NOT EXCHANGE IN THE AIRPORT). This year, we used Hotel Ali’s exchange (near Jemaa el-Fnaa) or a bank-affiliated ATM. Karen recommended the Schwab travel debit card because it refunds ATM fees. I gave it a whirl, and the fees are refunded at the end of the billing cycle. This is a great option if you’re a frequent traveler. Thanks, Karen!

With cash in hand, we have buying and tipping power, and we’re ready to explore!

We started with a visit to Deserted Photo Booth, new in Marrakech! Fun fact: I love a photo booth!

Our first group meal was at one of my favorite restaurants, La Famille. La Famille is so special: female-owned and operated, vegetarian, farm-fresh with a changing daily menu, and it’s set in a beautiful garden. The sparkling orange blossom lemonade haunts my dreams. Their fresh gnocchi rivals any Italian restaurant.

We ended our first day with a dinner at Le Jardin and had to wait out a hail storm before walking home! The team at Le Jardin was so kind to let us wait inside the restaurant.

Rain in the desert is good luck. Water is life. Morocco has had abundant rainfall this year, and its 7-year drought ended. Rain also has its benefits and challenges, and I’ll write more about that in future posts.

I will do my best to tell our story of our 9 days in Morocco from the heart.

Thank you for following along!

~Natalie

Up next: Palaces & Museums

To find BK Smith, follow directions to Royce Hall for the Fine & Performing Arts, Gillett Street, Painesville, OH 44077

The show is on view from February 6th to March 26, 2026

Opening Reception:
Sunday, February 22nd, 1 - 3 PM

Curator Gallery Talk:
Thursday, March 12th: 12:30 - 1:30 PM

From Woman 19, in 2026 takes place across four venues this year. This part of the exhibition’s theme is “Nature Inspired.” Landscapes, organic imagery, nature, animals, and fauna will be on view at the BK Smith Gallery. I am showing two Elemental necklaces featuring Lake Erie Beach Stones, Lake Erie Beach Glass, Moroccan Prayer Beads, Montana Agate, and Sterling Silver Closures.

Fellow Gallery 202 artists Susan Gallagher, Amie Sell, and Jill Milesnski are also part of this show.

From Woman 19, in 2026 celebrates Women and their art in 4 locations. Here is a list of the events:

• The McDonough Museum of Art
  January 20–February 28, 2026. Closing reception 2-4pm Saturday, February 28. Youngstown State University campus, 525 Wick Avenue, Youngstown. ysu.edu

• The BK Smith Gallery
  February 6–March 26, 2026. Gallery talk 12:30-1:30pm Thursday, March 12. Artist reception 1-3pm Sunday, February 22. Lake Erie College Royce Hall for the Performing Arts, Gillett Street, Painesville, Oh 44077

• The Beth K. Stocker Art Gallery
  February 19–March 15, 2026 Closing reception 1-3pm Sunday, March 15. Lorain Community College campus, 1005 North Abbe Road, Elyria. lorainccc.edu

• UNDERSTORY Gallery curated by Mary Urbas & Susan Snipes
  March 18–April 17, 2026. Opening reception 5-8pm Wednesday, March 18 at 78th Street Studios, 1305 West 89th Street, Suite 019, RAMP level

Read more about the exhibitions here:

CAN Journal

Lake Erie College

The News-Herald

CoolCleveland

Thank you to Mary Urbas for this opportunity and for her hard work and dedication in coordinating a multi-venue celebration of Women in the Arts.

Thank you for reading,

Natalie

To ring in the new year, Jatin and I decided to tackle it with family and friends. The itinerary was a combination of drives and flights, and probably only makes sense for us, but if you fancy a desert road trip, driving from Las Vegas to Joshua Tree was great fun.

Here’s the route:

Cleveland → Chicagoland → Las Vegas → Mojave National Preserve → Joshua Tree → Mojave National Preserve → Las Vegas → Chicagoland → Cleveland. Phew.

First Stop: Jatin, his mom, and I explored Riverside, a suggestion from my sister, and a National Historic Landmark. Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, it is one of the country’s first planned communities. Charming gas-powered lanterns line the streets, and there are so many green spaces it’s sometimes called “the village in the forest.” Law also designed NYC’s Central Park. Next, off to Oak Park, IL, for a tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright House and Museum.

Next Stop, Las Vegas. Jatin and I hopped on a Southwest flight to Las Vegas. Upon arrival, Jatin’s BFF, Justin (you might know him as the host of Hang Fire: A Rolling Stones Podcast), chauffeured us around his new hometown and agreed that the Neon Museum was a must-see. We had such a great time waxing nostalgic about the old days in Vegas (my first trip there was a family adventure in 2001) and imagining the early days of Sin City.

The next morning, the three of us were off to Joshua Tree via the Mojave National Preserve in our trusty Ford Bronco. I knew when we rented a Bronco (the only 4-wheel drive option), I was in for a few days of OJ jokes. I lost count, but Justin definitely dropped his glove…a lot. The Mojave featured some intimidating stretches. Signs are posted for no services, rough roads, road closures (for roads we took), traveling at your own risk, and driving like a tortoise (my personal favorite).

A reliable car is a must. When we arrived at the Hole in the Wall visitor center (closed but had a nice bathroom), I was shocked to see a few cars in the parking lot. A quick jaunt on the Rings Loop Trail delighted us with ancient petroglyphs and blue skies.

Some road repairs prevented us from exploring too much of historic Route 66/National Trails Highway. The few miles we did get to explore featured the mysterious marble Guardian Lions and Roy’s Motel and Cafe (Cafe was open with fun souvenirs, Route 66 sodas, and a row of port-o-potties). It was fun watching other tourists play in traffic to get their iconic photos, and to learn about Roy’s history and Albert Okura.

Onward to our cozy accommodations in Joshua Tree: Casa Carlyle in Yucca Valley. I loved this house and could have moved right in.

After the long drive and dropping bags, we hightailed it to Pioneertown to the famed Pappy & Harriet’s for dinner. Not deterred by the 2-hour wait and zero cell service (according to the hostess, it’s a vibe), we wandered the old western movie set until our table was ready - the 2-hour wait was more like 35 minutes thanks to people bailing.

Last day of the year! There’s nothing I love more than hiking on New Year’s Eve. This year, I was thrilled to revisit one of my all-time favorites: 49 Palms Oasis: a 3ish-mile round trip on what looks like the moon. Out of nowhere, an oasis of 49 palm trees pops up. Many signs urge you to use caution during the warmer months, but in January, the hike is smooth sailing and family-friendly. We had lots of company on the trail and enjoyed exchanging New Year’s wishes with fellow hikers. An early start paid off as it started to drizzle just as we were leaving. Phew.

It’s surreal to think that on New Year’s Eve, we’d meet up with dear friends at La Copine for dinner. Our group from Lakewood and Vegas, theirs from Los Angeles, converged on a rainy evening in Flamingo Heights for one of the most delicious meals of our lives. The meal was paced perfectly, but the lively conversation, great music, and vibrant atmosphere made the time go by too quickly. I forgot to take photos of the food; here’s the menu. We’re all trying to replicate the beet tartare. Stay tuned!

Happy New Year!

In many cultures, rain in the desert is a good omen. As they say, I had to look this one up - a possible Norse or Danish proverb: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear.” We embraced the sprinkles and headed into the heart of Joshua Tree for the day. After roadside stops at the Cholla Cactus Garden and Skull Rock, we decided we wanted to hike a longer trail.

Hiking the 4-ish (round-trip) miles to Lost Horse Mine was sandy, muddy, drippy, and foggy. I was getting a little grumpy with the wind (IYKYK) and the loss of visibility when we reached the mine. As with any time in the mountains, if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes and sure enough, there was a break in the clouds, a small patch of blue peeked through, and on the way down, yuccas glowed after their shower, birds chirped, and the Joshua Trees we couldn’t see on the way up, stood proudly. This hike can also be completed in a 6-mile loop; now on my wishlist for next time.

Some local lore: The Lost Horse Mine was named by Johnny Lang. He lost his horse and found the gold mine while looking for it. I have a lot more homework to do on Mr. Lang, but the Lost Horse Mine was one of the most successful mines in the area. In 1925, Johnny Lang died of exposure on Keys View Road and was buried in place.

We wrapped up New Year’s Day by sharing pizzas at Giant Rock Meeting Room. A “new to me” spot that is also located in Flamingo Heights. I think Flamingo Heights has a nice ring to it.

Parting is such sweet sorrow. After bumming around the town of Joshua Tree and enjoying brunch at the classic Crossroads Cafe, we said “see you next time” to our LA friends.

We made our way back to Las Vegas via Amboy and Kelso in the Mojave Reserve. We got a late start, but fortunately had the light of the Wolf Moon to illuminate our way.

It was risky to stop at Seven Magic Mountains, a site-specific installation by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone, in the dark because it was not lit, and the poisonous snake warning was a little unnerving. In fact, most reviews advised against going at night, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moon allowed just enough light - maybe too much - to photograph the colorful towers of boulders. Installed in 2016, this piece was scheduled for removal in 2018. Due to popular demand, it is still on view. It’s 10 miles south of Las Vegas and was a welcome break from the traffic.

Justin, our Las Vegas buddy, treated us to delicious Pho at Viet Noodle Bar. I’d never been to Vegas’ Chinatown. I can’t wait to go back.

Jatin and I returned the mighty Bronco (with a cracked windshield - a little stressful, and will update if our Chase Credit Card saves the day.) We boarded our flight back to Chicagoland after a glance at the swanky, new Sapphire Reserve Lounge at LAS. Southwest was good to us, and all flights were on time, allowing us to indulge in one more day of fun with the family. Jatin picked up a Frank Lloyd Wright puzzle from the Riverside Library, which both entertained and annoyed some family members. Only time will tell if all the pieces were there. Hoping to get the call any day now that the puzzle, aptly named Cactus Forms and Saguaro Flowers, is complete.

Now, it is back to reality, settling into 2026 and planning for a fun year ahead. If you see me daydreaming, I’m here: pulled over on the side of Morning Star Mine Road, staring at the moon.

Wishing you good health, happiness, and grand adventures in 2026.

Happy New Year.

Thank you for reading.

~ Natalie

Moroccan Artisan Retreat with Natalie

Details: March 25th - April 3rd, 2026

Add yourself to the waitlist: WeTravel Moroccan Artisan Retreat with Natalie

Enticed by Morocco but a little unsure of what’s in store? Here are the details:

This is a Marrakech-based retreat with an emphasis on the colors, art, design, culture, and traditions of Morocco. Your home away from home in Marrakech is the beautifully curated, well-appointed Maison 28. The team at Maison 28 will become your family. From the moment you arrive at Marrakech Menara Airport, you will feel their care.

Marrakech is vibrant and lively. It is also a maze to navigate (don’t worry, I plan to arrive early to practice my routes!) For your first full day, the group will have a private guide to whisk you around the Medina, visiting famous sights, highlighting local artisans, providing tips on local delicacies, and explaining how to bargain for the perfect souvenirs. This full-day tour is a comprehensive overview of Marrakech.

One thing that Morocco is famous for is its zellige tile. Zawyaty will host us for the afternoon for a zellige tile class. You’ll learn how to chisel away at clay to create your own tile pattern. Zawyaty also has a beautiful terrace and serves an incredible, home-cooked lunch after class. The proceeds from the class (and any shopping you do in their shops) directly support their efforts to empower the young people of Morocco.

This will be my 6th trip to Morocco, and every single trip has included a stop in Essaouira, my favorite bohemian city by the sea. This time, I’m adding a stop in Safi, another seaside town known for its pottery production. This will be an incredible opportunity to learn more about Morocco’s rich history in ceramic production.

After Safi, we will head to Essaouira to check into our beautiful Riad. We will stay two nights. Essaouira is smaller, easy to navigate, has a laid-back vibe, great shopping, yummy restaurants, fabulous art galleries, wonderful beaches, and is home to my favorite rug shop.

Most of our time in Essaouira will be unstructured; however, everyone is welcome to accompany me if that is preferred. Please know that my time in Essaouira will involve talking to cats, taking pictures of doors, trips to the beach to hunt for beach pottery, a visit to the above-mentioned rug shop, a stop for orange-blossom oil, and I’m on the hunt for a jacket made from a vintage blanket. Oh, and the art galleries…

No trip to Morocco would be complete without a visit to the gorgeous Le Jardin Majorelle (and YSL Museum and The Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts), and we will explore the gardens after spending the afternoon at the Amal Center, a nonprofit that “empowers women one meal at a time”.

I love to cook, especially in someone else’s kitchen! And, look at those spices lined up, a dreamy setup to add a pinch of this and a pinch of that for a perfect flavor.

Another adventure awaits as we venture to the Atlas Mountains for a day at a traditional home for a weaving workshop and lunch. This is a perfect way to gain even more appreciation for the handwoven rugs we’ve admired throughout the trip.

It’s like I’m saving the best for last (if you choose to join me!) Bacha coffee is optional because they do not take reservations. This coffee shop is an event. If you want first seating (yes, we do), we will line up possibly one hour before opening. You’ll think I’m crazy at first, and then you’ll see the line form behind us! If, for some reason, we don’t get the first seating, we receive buzzers to notify us of a table while we take in the incredible Dar el Bacha Museum. Yes, the coffee shop is located within the museum, combining my two loves: coffee and art.

After indulging at Bacha Coffee, we’ll make one last souvenir from the awe-inspiring Zwak art. Toufik and Abdul will teach us the traditional painting techniques with brushes made of donkey hair. Their shop (pictured above) displays their masterfully painted trays, mirrors, and furniture.

Sharing my passion for travel and adoration for Morocco is a great privilege.

I look forward to traveling with you.

Thank you for reading,

Natalie

Friday, August 1st: 3 - 8 PM

Saturday, August 2nd: 9 AM - 4 PM

Sherod Park, a few miles west of charming downtown Vermilion

What I love about this market…

• Located right on Lake Erie with beautiful views

• Wine Garden (though I never get to go!)

• Vintage VW Buses roll in on Saturday Morning

• INCREDIBLE selection of Handmade & Vintage

• Delicious Food Trucks and charming coffee campers

Check out this vendor list:

*Note my business name has changed to Natalie Rich Collection. Now, you just have to remember my name :) I’ll be in Booth #7 this year.

New name, same offerings this weekend. I’ve been hanging out at Edgewater most mornings, hunting and gathering. When I design, I work with the way the beach glass, stones, brick, pottery, and shells are found - I never tumble anything. This proves a challenge when making earrings (my best seller).

More often than not, I’ll think I have a match only to learn I have TWO DIFFERENT COLORS. IYKYK. Especially with the greens. I texture all of the metal (Sterling Silver and Brass) by hand ~ this is way more enjoyable when I’m mad ~ and not only do I find all of the beach glass, I drill it all too. The glass is treated with a little Olive Oil (hey, I’m Italian and that’s what I’ve got!). You can also use baby oil or avocado oil to get a little shine to mimic how the pieces look when in the water.

The number one question I get at shows is how I drill, so here’s some info in case you were wondering:

• I have a drill press, but started with a Dremel

• Yes, I drill underwater

• I drill pieces from both sides and meet in the middle to avoid cracking

• I use a 1.5mm diamond drill bit that I purchased from Rio Grande

• Yes, many, many pieces break, and sometimes it’s a real bummer

• No, I don’t paint the pottery

Back to Vermilion! I’ll be bringing my usual assortment of beach glass and pottery jewelry, a little photography, and maybe a Moroccan rug might show up since the forecast looks dreamy.

I’ll also have notecards of my photography. Three sets are available: Doors of Morocco, Doors of Venice, and Lake Erie Sunrises & Sunsets

I’ll leave you with some scenes from last year. This is my third year and the market’s 9th! This is also my last weekend before going back to work on Monday (I know, SO EARLY, right?!) and would love to see all of you before I tackle my 13th year of teaching!

Vermilion is my last market of the year! I will not be in Erie this fall but hope to rejoin next year.

My work is available year-round at Gallery 202 in the 78th Street Studios Building. I am there most Wednesdays, 4 - 7 PM, and Saturdays, 12 - 4 PM. And, I have a beach glass class idea swimming around. Stay tuned!

The building also famously hosts its Third Friday Artwalks each month, and no two are the same! Follow us on IG for the latest.

Thanks for reading and hope to see you this weekend!

Peace, Love, and Beach Glass,

Natalie

Why Uruguay?

Fun Facts:

• Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America after Suriname

• Uruguay is home to about 3.4 million people, and almost half live in Montevideo

• Cows outnumber humans 4:1

• Uruguay has progressive social policies:

  • Same-sex marriage and adoption are legalized

  • Anti-discrimination laws are in place for sexual orientation and gender identity

  • First country to legalize the recreational use of marijuana

  • Education is free at all levels, including University

  • A National Healthcare system that provides care to all citizens

Planning a trip to Uruguay proved to be a challenge. After listening to a couple of podcast interviews with Karen A Higgs from Guru'Guay and referencing her guidebook on Beaches, Ranches, and Wine Country, a plan was hatched to explore Uruguay in the offseason. Upon learning how easy it was to ferry to Buenos Aires, it was decided to end the adventure with a taste of Argentina (Malbec).

Itinerary:

Outgoing Flight: (Plan) Cleveland → Atlanta → Santiago → Montevideo

Outgoing Flight: (Reality) Cleveland → Atlanta → Lima → Montevideo

Days 2-3 (Day 1 was lost to Delta Airline’s shenanigans): José Ignacio

Days 4-6: Montevideo

Days 7-8: Colonia del Sacramento

Days 9-10 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Return Flight: Buenos Aires → Atlanta → Cleveland

With a “The beaches are always open” mindset, Jatin reserved an automatic Chevy Onyx for the first 3 (2) days because he loves driving on vacation, and a car would provide freedom and flexibility to explore. Armed with solid advice on using the Waze app for traffic cameras, not to speed, headlights always on, 0.0% blood alcohol limit, and my favorite: no turning right on reds, we were on our way!

First stop was the coastal town of Piriápolis for a coffee and regrouping session. Many businesses were only open on weekends during the off-season.

Due to some Delta shenanigans, we lost a day and that really put a bee in my bonnet. All that planning only to pivot, adjust, and re-plan. I remembered a recommendation (from the Guru’Guay Facebook forum, of course!) for Bodega Cerro del Torro, specializing in Albariños (a Spanish white).

Since I had a driver, I opted for a tasting of three Albariños from three different parts of the vineyard. As an aspiring wine aficionado, I have learned that the soil is the key to great wine. I learned about the minerality of the rocky soil along the Atlantic and how the grapes (brought to Uruguay from Spain) ripen with the sea breeze to create the perfect Albariño.

A perfect first stop for being on the fly. Next time, I’d opt for the tour and take at a few bottles home!

Onward to José Ignacio. The way writers write about the peninsula intrigued me. The location is also a little further east and positioned closer to Garzón (known as the Marfa of Uruguay). It’s also VERY sleepy this time of year.

The days on the coast were the ones I was looking forward to most. Walking on new beaches is my favorite any time of year. Due to strict building restrictions in José Ignacio, structures are low-level. The peninsula is a mere 6 streets by 6 streets. There aren’t many hotels to choose from. Remember, traveling at the beginning of the off-season, some hotels were closed. Thankfully, the beautiful Posada del Faro was open year-round and had availability!

“Envía por mis cosas”, I practiced. Send for my things.

This view…sigh. You can see why I was upset to lose a night in this beautiful place. The sounds of the gentle waves, the feeling of the salty sea air on your skin…there’s nothing better.

Sticking to the original plan, on day 2 (fake day 3), we headed east (about a 2-hour drive) to Santa Teresa National Park: a known spot to see the beloved capybaras and to explore the beach town of Punta del Diablo.

But first, a stop at Rizoma, a bookstore/cafe/hotel tucked away in José Ignacio. I started my unofficial alfajores tour here. An alfajore is a classic Argentinian cookie also popular in Uruguay. It’s essentially a shortbreak cookie sandwich filled with dulce de leche and rolled in coconut. Yummm. You can also get a wonderful alfajores right here in Lakewood at Brewella’s.

Santa Teresa National Park had a lot to explore. Daylight was limited with short fall days (sunset around 5:30 PM!). There’s a historic military fortress to explore that was unfortunately closed that day - another reason to return!

We did find some capybaras that were fun to observe from afar, some napping, some lumbering around.

Jatin made the executive decision that we should watch the sunset in Punda del Diablo. I put up a little bit of a fight because of the 2-hour drive back we’d have in the dark, but I lost, and I’m so glad I did. The clouds reflected shades of purple, and while there were surfers in the water, we were the only people on this beautiful stretch of beach.

A glowing empanada stand beckoned us (and the only open spot we saw at the time), and we thought, “When in Uruguay”.

The surfers caught waves until after dark, and as we wandered back to the car, a few more restaurants seemed to open. I’d consider staying in Punta del Diablo to have more time to explore the town and nearby beaches.

Another spot that EVERYONE was talking about was Cabo Polonia. This town doubles as a national park, and there is only one sandy road leading in (a bus can take you), or you can hike in from Barra de Valizas (about 2 hours). Cabo Polonia is off the grid, with no electricity and running water. According to the locals, it’s the best place to view stars. Staying in Cabo Polonia is now high on my bucket list!

The last day of exploring the coast came too quickly. The lovely team at Posada del Faro was gracious to suggest a late checkout and insisted we take a golf cart to explore. It was truly a gift to have a few more moments in José Ignacio, meandering on the beaches, checking out the lighthouse, wondering what the town is like when it comes to life in summer. And best of all, deciding that we will return one day.

Onward to Montevideo with a few stops along the way.

An inconvenient detour led us through Garzón, a former railroad town compared to Marfa, TX, in this Condé Nast Traveler article. Nothing was open, and with the bee buzzing in my bonnet, I walked around the sleepy town, enjoying the architecture, the weathered buildings, the open sky, all while imagining the creatives and characters that are a part of this vibrant art community.

Pueblo Garzón is famous for being the location of Restaurant Garzón, Frances Mallman’s iconic restaurant and inn. Having a meal here is also on the bucket list. With the airline snafu, we also missed exploring the famous Bodega Garzón, the winery that put Uruguay on the map for wine tourism. The good news is that one of Bodega Garzón’s delicious Albarinõs is available at the Rocky River Heinen’s and will be in stock at Casa Marlowe if you’d like to share a glass on the porch.

Having to make concessions, the town of Aiguá was traded for Casapueblo, a museum dedicated to Carlos Páez Vilaró, a traveler, painter, muralist, potter, sculptor, and Uruguay’s most beloved artist. Pablo Picasso was a friend and inspiration. Casapueblo was his studio and summer home, and now houses the museum and a hotel. The architecture is reminiscent of Dalí and Gaudí. I read an article about Casapueblo years ago, and the images sparked my curiosity about Uruguay. A very popular attraction in the busy season, but since it was a Monday in the off-season, we were the crowd.

Driving into Montevideo was spectacular at sunset. We bid farewell to the Chevy and walked to the Alma Historica Boutique Hotel in the Ciudad Vieja neighborhood. Each room is designed after a famous Uruguayan figure.

The area of Montevideo we stayed in was quiet once the sun went down. It seemed like everything was closed, possibly for two reasons: 1) it was the time between work and dinner, or 2) it was a Monday. Using the Guru’Guay guide for where to eat and drink in Montevideo, we wandered over to Viti Bar de Vinos, and it turned out that’s where everyone was hiding. Viti had an extensive wine list, yummy food, incredible live music, and most of all, the friendliest service. If I lived in Montevideo, I’d be a regular.

I had a seat WAY too close to the action, but here’s a snippet!

On the first full day in Montevideo, we walked around and made it to the Manos del Uruguay outlet, where we could find yarn for the knitters in our lives. We walked the stretch of Sarandi, a pedestrian-only street with street vendors. Refueled at the beautiful Cafe La Farmacia and headed to Puerto Mercado to Cabana Veronica to try some of the famous Uruguayan steak.

The next day, we started with an early morning walk along La Rambla, the total length is about 14 miles. What a gift this multi-use path is. Locals were walking, jogging, and biking in the morning sunshine. We walked maybe 2 of the 14. You can also rent bikes to explore. After the walk, we ordered an Uber (worked great in Montevideo and Buenos Aires) and went out to Bodega Bouza for a tour and tasting, where we finally tried the famous Tannat!

Last stop in Uruguay: The beautiful Colonia del Sacramento. The Historic Quarter, founded by the Portuguese in 1680, is one of Uruguay’s oldest cities and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We stayed at Posada Las Terrazas, a charming hotel featuring incredible service, located in a perfect location that’s walking distance to everything.

One idea I had was to take a bus to Carmelo and rent bikes to explore a couple of wineries (Carmelo is a large wine-producing area and sometimes called the Tuscany of Uruguay). However, there was a chance of rain, so the hotel suggested we take the De Coupas Tour de Bodegas. A van picked us up at the hotel (we were the only people on that day’s tour, making it VERY exclusive!) and drove us the hour to Carmelo. The driver only spoke Spanish. We told him our Spanish was limited and slow (habla despacio), and he was gracious enough to converse with us the entire way, sharing information about the area and making sure we understood. Understanding Spanish is easier for me than speaking. It’s amazing how taking Spanish for 2 years in high school provides a great foundation.

Tannat is to Uruguay as Malbec is to Argentina. Tannat is a bold, full-bodied, dry red wine characterized by its heavy tannins. The grape originated in southern France but was introduced to Uruguay in the 1870s. The owners of the winery were wonderful, and we had a great time relaxing in these beautiful spaces on a dreary day.

One winery I am curious about is Narbona Wine Lodge - you can stay at their location in Carmelo, and they also have a spa. Narbona also has another location near Punta del Este (you guessed it, closed when we drove through!).

Overall, Colonia del Sacramento is a beautiful town to take a pause and relax.

It’s easy peasy to ferry from Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires. I’d recommend booking a ticket in advance if you’re traveling during the higher seasons. I’m used to the Kelly’s Island-style ferries, but this one was outfitted with a duty-free shop and a cafeteria. I didn’t get any great photos because it was raining on our ferry ride.

The metropolitan area of Buenos Aires has a population of about 3.1 million (just about the same as the entire population of Uruguay!) If you include the surrounding areas, the population soars to over 16 million. Wow.

I debated which neighborhood to stay in, but I went with Palermo Soho and enjoyed the Mine Boutique Hotel. The team was friendly and helpful with recommendations, and the location was the perfect spot to call home for a couple of nights. Palermo Soho feels more like a neighborhood, and it was teeming with adorable cafes and restaurants.

La Porta Nera was one of my favorites of the trip. Loved the giant scissors to cut the pizza and the simplicity of the arugula and parm salad.

There was SO much street art I was losing my mind. Reminded me of Queen West in Toronto.

On the one full day in Buenos Aires, we seamlessly danced our way through at least 4 artisan markets, took in the cute animals at the Ecoparque, realized I’m not prepared for my afterlife at the Recoleta Cemetery, and the cherry on top, a tango show at El Querandi in the San Telmo neighborhood.

I did not do much research on Buenos Aires and learned a valuable lesson not to assume every place is the same when it comes to obtaining local currency. The restaurants only accepted cash tips, so having some Argentine Pesos was a must.

The hotel recommended we stop by Western Union for the best rate. The rate to exchange our Uruguayan Pesos for Argentine Pesos was outrageous - I think the rate on the ferry was better (still outrageous), so we decided to keep that currency for a souvenir. I finally decided to try an ATM, even if it was a bad deal, we only needed a little cash for one day. With the exchange rate, I couldn’t exactly tell how much money I was taking out, but the machine kept saying it didn’t have enough (not uncommon in any city). Finally, I was able to get the equivalent of USD 30, but the fees were just over $10. Friends told us the best way to exchange was to use the people who randomly walked up to you in the street, but, sadly, no one ever approached us. Maybe next time!

In Uruguay, the best way to exchange dollars for Uruguayan Pesos was to use the exchanges. They were everywhere and worked great. American dollars are accepted, but servers and drivers seemed to prefer the local currency.

All in all, I’d say from this first trip to South America, Uruguay and Argentina are beautiful, safe countries with the kindest people. One major bonus: no jet lag! Argentina and Uruguay are only 1 hour ahead!

English is widely spoken, but knowing “travel and restaurant” Spanish is beneficial. We encountered a few people who did not speak English, but we were able to communicate using the limited Spanish that we had. There is a major Italian influence in both Uruguay and Buenos Aires but I noticed it more in the food than language although everyone bid farewell with a friendly, “Ciao”!

If you’re a slower traveler and love wine, the beauty of the countryside, and wild beaches, Uruguay is for you. Buenos Aires was very family-friendly and great for anyone. The city has so much to offer, we barely scratched the surface!

Next time, we plan for Uruguay in the shoulder season, and Cabo Polonia is at the top of the list for stargazing. As for Argentina, Mendoza is calling my name, and I can’t help but bump Patagonia to the top of the list.

If you made it this far, I appreciate you!

Gracias, Ciao!

Natalie

Now, back to sharing more on our fabulous days in Morocco!

Marrakech, like all destinations, includes obligatory stops, and one that still makes me swoon (despite the lines and crowds) is Le Jardin Majorelle. I recommend buying the combination ticket that also allows you to visit the Berber Museum (photos were not allowed ) and the YSL Museum. All attractions are small and you can easily visit these in a morning session (booking the earliest admission gives you a little more time to yourself in the garden) or afternoon. We visited in the afternoon after the Amal Cooking Center class.

The garden was founded by Jacques Majorelle in 1931. The brilliant blue color is known as “Majorelle Blue”. Fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé, bought the property in 1980 and restored the gardens.

The Secret Garden or Le Jardin Secret is another beautiful oasis in bustling Marrakech. I am constantly in awe of how frustrated I can be with the scooters and hustle and bustle of the souks, and then all of a sudden, on the other side of a wall is a gorgeous wonderland of plants and peace.

We visited Le Jardin Secret after the Zawyaty Metals class. Relaxing on this patio until we were given the hint to leave was the perfect way to soak in the late afternoon sun.

One of my favorite sites to visit (and located very conveniently to Maison 28, our home away from home, is Madrasa Ben Youssef.

Completed in the 16th century, this former university is an architectural treasure featuring carved cedar and stucco, chiseled zellij tile, and brick. It’s mind-blowing to witness the combination of Saadian and Moorish architecture that was fabricated by hand.

We visited this site with Youssef on the first day of our tour during the afternoon. The crowds were unbelievable, but Youssef expertly guided us to quiet corners to deliver information on the architecture and history of this historic college.

Last year, I snuck in just before closing and had the place almost completely to myself. Waiting in line for the first entry or trying your luck at the end of the day might allow for a quieter experience.

On to the palaces…

We reunited with Youssef (our Day 1 guide and now a family member!) and he expertly guided us through the Bahia and Badi Palaces on our last day. It had been many years since I’d taken in these historic places, and I was unsure of what to expect.

Now I know. Crowds, expect crowds.

First stop, Bahia Palace, was BUSY, but wow, was it ever gorgeous.

Bahia Palace is a stunning example of traditional Moroccan architecture. In Arabit, “bahia” means “brilliance,” and this palace is nothing short of brilliant. Built in the 19th century, it is a relatively “new” palace showcasing tile mosaics, painted ceilings, courtyards, and gardens.

Between Bahia and El Badi Palaces, Youssef guided us through the Mellah, or Jewish Quarter, of Marrakech, founded in 1558. We explored Laazama Synagogue (founded in 1492) as well as the Mellah’s famous spice markets and souks. I hadn’t been to this area of Marrakech before, and it was one of the more interesting and historic parts of the city.

Last stop of the tour was El Badi Palace. Much older than Bahia Palace, Badi Palace was completed in the 16th century. El Badi loosely translates to “incomparable palace.” While the palace is now in ruins, you can catch a glimpse of the opulence as this site was constructed from materials from faraway places such as Italy (marble) and Timbuktu (plaster).

One thing I found fascinating was the sunken gardens. The gardens, since reconstructed, were filled with ornamental orange trees giving off their intoxicating fragrance.

The remains of the bathhouse were intriguing, as worn tile remained where the hammams once stood. Unfortunately, this extremely photogenic site has also captured the wandering eye of fashionistas and influencers, making it difficult to enjoy a quiet moment picturing what once was.

After a 1/2 day tour of the sites, Youssef dropped us off at the fabulous La Famille for lunch. I was SO thankful I reserved a table because the day was SOLD OUT! La Famile is 100% vegetarian and has a farm-to-table menu that changes daily. Dining in the garden as the light danced across the table was one of my favorite moments from this first-ever group retreat.

A theme that emerged in this post is how Marrakech feels busier than ever. I have to thank Melanie, our host, and her team at Maison 28, as well as Youssef, our guide, for their expertise in enjoying Marrakech responsibly. Unlike previous visits, reservations were crucial for both activities and meals. While the itinerary worked great, there are a few small changes I would make.

I will be writing a post with the full itinerary and suggestions for next time that will be available to my paid subscribers.

Thank you for following along with The Gallery 202 Artian Retreat, my first ever. It’s been a pleasure to relive the memories through Substack, and I greatly appreciate everyone who reads and/or scrolls through the pictures!

Stay tuned for 2026 dates! Inshallah!

~Natalie

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Luggage loaded, we followed it to Riad Kafila, our home for two nights.

One of my favorite moments was walking through the square into the alleyway, watching everyone absorb the vibe of their new surroundings. Essaouira, beautifully merchandised with colourful carpets hanging in the walkways, kitties napping wherever a sunny spot is found, ceramics lining the city wall, the smell of the sea, is a feast for the eyes and soul.

Riad Kafila, situated on the water, boasted an incredible view from its rooftop. The waves were the highest I’ve ever witnessed, and we enjoyed a welcome tea while watching the waves crash and the seagulls circle.

The weathered doors taunt me every time. This is my fifth time visiting, and I always find a new walkway that feels like a portal to an unknown nook.

In addition to being on the water, having the perfect “hippie town” vibe, the fabulous doors, and great shopping, Essaouira also touches my heart because the cats truly run this town.

The people of Essaouira love their cats and put out food and water bowls. However, the population needs to be managed responsibly.

I had been following Zakaria on Instagram for a few years: @lil_zakiessaouira, and was thrilled in 2024 when my friend Annie and I saw him walking around Essaouira. He invited us for tea, and we met a few of his cats (most were lounging on the roof). He told us about the work he does for the street cats of Essaouira and the cost of food, medicine, and sterilization.

On this most recent trip, I was delighted when Zakaria walked right up to us as I pointed out his door and QR code to Leslye, Jill, and Marjorie! What timing!

A little about how Zakaria helps the cats of Essaouira:

My journey with cats started when I was so small ..My house was always full of cats with different colors ..

I start to help my street cats with food and medicines first ..

Then, step by step, I began to help all the cats of Essaouira and Morocco

Covid times were a crucial moment for the cats, and I helped too much to keep them alive and safe ..

I did more than 200 sterilisations, and I'm so proud of that. That's the most important way to help street cats and protect them against illnesses and viruses..

One sterilization costs 40 dollars, and I take 6 to 8 cats every month, and I'm helping daily times cats with food. Dry for the old cats and wet food for the kittens...And helping the sick and weak ones with medicines and injections.

Thank you for your support !! - Zakaria EL ARJE

Join me in donating to Zakaria’s PayPal so he can continue to help the furry friends of Essaouira: Zakaria EL ARJE PayPal

Shopping for carpets, hunting for pottery shards, sharing meals and laughs in beautiful spaces, relaxing with a view, and taking in a camel ride on the beach were just some of the activities we dabbled in during our time in Essaouira.

We learned about different types of carpets, the tribes, materials, techniques, and what makes a vintage rug more valuable. Mimi, the shopcat, supervised. Overall, we made great selections and all shipped home safely and are now proudly displayed in our homes. A Moroccan carpet makes the best souvenir.

Essaouira left an imprint on our hearts. I can still hear the waves crashing and seagulls squawking while I feel the salty air on my skin. Always grateful for time exploring this seaside gem and overjoyed that Leslye, Marjorie, Jill, Pam, and Christina fell in love with Essaouira too.

Thank you for following along,

Natalie

Up next: The Palaces and Gardens of Marrakech

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This post is dedicated to the afternoons we spent learning and creating during our 10-day tour. Many thanks to Melanie at Maison 28 for helping me choose these fabulous partners for our group.

If you’ve been to Marrakech, you already know. In case you haven’t been (yet), know that as intoxicating as Marrakech is, breaks are a necessity.

The first break from Marrakech took us to the Ourika Valley in the High Atlas Mountains to learn about traditional pottery production from Kahlid. First, Riad, our rockstar driver, walked us through the village to see how the red clay is excavated and dried in the sun.

Then, we were treated to an afternoon of learning in Khalid’s studio. He invited the group to use the wheel. Leslye, a former production potter, and Pam, a first-timer, took Khalid up on his offer to throw a pot.

I enjoyed listening and watching two experts share tips, tools, and techniques. I had to remind myself that it was Pam’s first time using the wheel. She’s a natural.

Khalid even took the time to dry Pam’s pot so she could take it home to finish!

Our tour ended with Khalid showing us the larger kilns his family used.

Nestled in the northern part of Marrakech’s Medina is where we spent one of my favorite afternoons with Zawyaty. Zawyaty is a community space where local youth can gather to meet with artisans to work on projects. It’s a combination of education and creation committed to the preservation of local traditions. Group workshops on leatherwork, zellige tile, and brass are offered to visitors to fund their mission of keeping classes free for local children.

We all agreed that chiseling our shapes out with the chasing tools gave a HUGE appreciation to the many brass and metal items for sale in the souks.

Pam, inspired by Marimetko, designed earrings for herself and her daughter. Leslye continued with her Miriam vessels and made beautiful brass renditions. Christina opted for a technical wall hanging. I used inspiration from the ironwork of the metal doors to design a pair of earrings.

Working with a local artisan and the expertise of Burcin, one of the directors, we carved away for the afternoon.

Once finished, Zawyaty spoiled us even more with a delicious home-cooked meal on their terrace. Jill enjoyed the view so much that she recreated it in watercolor.

Zawyaty is also expanding to open boutiques featuring goods made in their workshops and renovating beautiful spaces covered in colorful tile to expand their offerings. If you’re in Marrakech, stop by to see what they’re up to. Better yet, schedule a class. Remember, they serve lunch too - they truly do it all.

Our next class came in the form of cooking with the Amal Women’s Center

Amal Women’s Center works to increase the number of women in the Moroccan workforce (currently only 25%!) by providing culinary training in a professional setting. They also have a coffee cart on site, run by deaf students, that served the most delicious cappuccinos while waiting for your tagines to cook. Amal has also done extensive work for victims of the devastating 2023 earthquake.

For the cooking class, in teams of two, we tackled veggie couscous, fish tagine, and chicken tagine with lemon and preserved olives. There is no shortcut for making tagine (a tagine is the earthenware pot used to cook and can be any combination of ingredients).

While our dishes cooked, we fanned the flames and enjoyed a traditional tea ceremony. It was orange blossom season, and not only was the scent from the ornamental orange trees other-worldly, but the orange blossoms were also mind-blowingly delicious in the mint tea.

We shared our meal with a lovely British woman researching to write her book and a family from Switzerland. Another enriching part of travel is the people you meet along the way.

The last scheduled class (Jill made every day a class!) was with Zwak Painting, located in the heart of Marrakech’s old city. Toufik and Abdul demonstrated how to use chalk to create a stencil outline and it’s freehand from there. The brushes are made of donkey hair and demand a particular balancing of your hand and the brush to achieve control when painting the lines.

First, we chose a pre-painted, vibrant tray for our background. Next, we devised our color schemes. I took a break from my usual shades of blue and orange and opted for a Red City-inspired palette: red with pink, orange, and yellow.

Painting in the open-air studio was relaxing, save a few moments where I smudged or painted up the sides of my tray. In the end, my tray looked great from afar (think Monet). Up close, it fondly reminded me of those handmade treasures my mother had begrudgingly displayed that I made when I was a kid.

Participating in these classes taught us about local crafts and customs while providing a way to give back to organizations working to improve conditions for women, the deaf, earthquake victims, and the youth of Morocco.

Our participation in the Amal Cooking Class and Zawyaty Brass Metals Workshop directly supports their programming.

If you’d like to contribute to Amal Women’s Center, you can make an online donation here: Donate to Amal Nonprofit

If you’d like to support Zawyaty and their workshops dedicated to the younger generation, Donate to Zawyaty

Thank you for following along,

Natalie

Next up: Furry Friends in Essaouira

Pro tip: If you’re considering group travel (and you should), find a group centered around a common interest. In this case, the tour was designed with artists in mind.

Meet my fellow adventurers: Pam, neighbor, artist, and specialist in antiquities with a knack for retelling stories; Christina, a textile-lover and accomplished knitter, she never leaves home without a tape measure; Marjorie, docent at the Cleveland Museum of Art, fused glass artist, and the most joyful human on the planet; Leslye, community activist, mixed media artist exploring the intersection of nature and spirituality, and fellow cat-lover; and Jill, a prolific artist that lives for color and documented the entire trip with her drawings and paintings. (More on that below!)

It was my first group, and I will hold all of these women and our memories close to my heart forever.

Instead of boring you with the day-by-day, stay tuned for themed posts around our 10 days in Morocco. Based in Marrakech with side trips to the Ourika Valley and Essaouira (because if you know Marrakech, you know breaks are needed!), we explored the famous palaces, learned about and from local artisans, participated in classes, partnered with non-profits, and somehow never got lost.

I think it’s safe to say that everyone LOVED our home away from home in Marrakech, the thoughtfully curated Maison 28. Maison 28 is owned and operated by Melanie Royals. Melanie, a designer, scoured the souks of Marrakech to handpick the items displayed in every room, creating a tranquil haven for artists drenched in color and pattern. Jill especially enjoyed documenting every space with a drawing.

Vintage baskets adorn the walls of the breakfast nook, hand-painted doors dance throughout the rooms, and bathrooms feature a combination of tadelakt and patterned tile. Each room is unique, fabulous, and well-appointed.

Melanie specializes in helping people (like me!) plan artist retreats in Morocco. She has amassed an extraordinary team of guides, drivers, cooks, and community partners to fit any retreat itinerary.

Coming up next: Art and Artisans in Marrakech & the Ourika Valley, the story of what we made and the friends we made along the way.

Thank you for following along,

Natalie

I eased into my first day with a slow, delicious breakfast and read on the terrace.

Since I have to at least pretend to know where I am going this trip, I took an intentional wander to refresh my memory of the crooked alleyways. Fridays are a quieter day in the Medina save a few cats.

This purple door is a great landmark

Getting caught in the rain was a welcome surprise. The colors began to intensify as the structures and walkways received a refresh.

Woke up on day 2 to blue skies and made my way to Farnatchi Spa for a hammam.

Stopped for lunch at Naima Couscous, a very local spot that relied on gestures for communication. I was pointed to a seat, tea appeared moments later and then without ordering, the most delicious chicken & vegetable couscous was placed in front of me.

Cats posing, scooters zipping, visitors stopping snapping photos, more walkways and doors than I could ever possibly photograph - I look forward to welcoming my group and sharing Marrakech’s magic.

Thank you for following along!

Natalie

In October 2023, fresh off the Tamam Textile Extravaganza/Sister’s Birthday Adventure in Türkiye with an incredible (and encouraging) group of art lovers, I laid the groundwork for the Gallery 202 Artisan Retreat to Morocco.

It’s finally happening! Fifteen months later, it’s happening.

The festivities began last week with a Moroccan “Meet and Greet” so everyone could ask questions while thumbing through travel and design books. The conversation over harira was so lively, I forgot to snap photos of the food or the humans!

A little about the planning: last June, I flew to Marrakech to meet our host, try restaurants, and visit a few sights. I thoughtfully planned a 10-day itinerary with artists in mind. A slower pace, time to sit and sketch, art classes and visits to the iconic sights sprinkled in. Plenty of down-time is scheduled in case the need to linger longer or get lost (one of the best things you can do in Marrakech) calls.

What I’m looking forward to sharing with my fellow travelers:

I’m a coffee lover, addict, aficionado, whatever you want to call me. Bacha Coffee is my favorite coffee shop in the world. It’s inside Dar el Bacha Museum so if you have to wait for a table, you can look at art. It’s a win-win.

Our group will (fingers crossed) catch the last day of the Lalla Essaydi Photography Exhibit, “The Unveiled Invisible” at Dar el Bacha. You can read more about the exhibit here.

Essaouira is a gem. This seaside town is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle in Marrakech.

I am also thrilled to share a camel ride on the beach in Essaouira. My experience with camels was a 2008 ride in a sandstorm in Merzouga. It was memorable, but sandy.

I could shop for carpets all day. Hoping this crew is as textile obsessed as I am.

The magnificent Le Jardin Majorelle. I recently watched the Yves Saint Laurent film and am grateful to return with more knowledge of Saint Laurent and his longtime partner, Pierre Bergé. The property also has the fabulous YSL Museum and The Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts.

We will travel in Morocco during the holy month of Ramadan; a time of prayer, reflection, and community. The pace of the day is slower. Morocco even sets clocks back an hour to align the iftar (meal that breaks the daily fast) with sunset.

I’m curious to see how the itinerary unfolds, how relationships will flourish, and how the architecture and colors will influence the practice of the artists on the trip.

Thankfully, I’ll get to find out soon!

Shukran,

Natalie

The itinerary created by yours truly and at the mercy of tour availability:

Day 1 Arrival: Monday, December 30th, dinner at Osteria Alla Frasca

Day 2: Tuesday, December 31st Daytime: Walking Tour of Bookstores/Vintage Shops/Record Store daytime with Cicchetti stops watch | Nighttime: fireworks

Day 3: Wednesday, January 1st: Vaporetto to Murano and Burano with friends, dinner at Orient Experience in Cannaregio

Day 4: Thursday, January 2nd: Ca’Pesaro Museum, explore the Jewish Ghetto, San Giorgio Maggiore, Giudecca

Day 5: Friday, January 3rd: Peggy Guggenheim Museum, Cicchetti tour with Monica Ceserato

Day 6: Saturday, January 4th: Cafe Florian, Gondola Ride, Walks of Italy night tour of Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, dinner at Nobili per gondolier!

Day 7: Sunday, January 5th: Took Rick Steve’s advice and chose the “James Bond” departure to the airport.

Accommodations: Hotel Moresco is located near Piazzale Roma, one of the transportation hubs making it easy to access buses, trains, and vaporettos (water busses). Hotel Moreco was situated in a quieter part of Venice and about a 20-minute walk from the main tourist attractions.

Day 1 Arrival: Monday, December 30th: Flights were easy and on time. Chicago O’Hare to Amsterdam to Venice. Venice airport was easy to navigate and a breeze to buy bus tickets. After flying, getting to the hotel was priority 1 and the bus was most efficient and economical. Check-in was smooth and Hotel Moresco greeted us with a welcome drink and snacks while registration did the paperwork.

It didn’t take long before Venice beckoned to be explored. The first stop was the Banksy mural, steps from the hotel in the Dorsoduro district along the Rio Novo Canal. There are only two Banksy artworks in Italy. Madonna con la Pistola can be viewed in Naples and is protected under plexiglass. I was surprised to find that Migrant Child was unprotected. 

Before I get too ahead of myself, I do want to link all of the resources used to plan this trip:

• Untold Italy Podcast

• Venice Talks Podcast

• Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy

• The Reluctant Traveler with Eugene Levy

• Conde Nast Best Restaurants in Venice

After flying across the pond, there was no time like the present to experience one of the things that makes Venice unique. Cicchetti.

Cicchetti are bite-size snacks often served on crostini. They are best enjoyed with a little wine called the “umbra,” which translates to “shadow.” According to legend, wine merchants in St. Mark’s would move their stands into the shade to keep the wine cool. The baccalà mantecato (whipped salted cod) is one of the most popular cicchetti and I was in heaven to be in the region where Soave is produced.

These wonderful snack stops won’t set you back more than € 20 for two people. The cicchetti is about € 2.50/ea and wine € 3.50 at most places. I can’t think of a place where wine and a snack are under $20 for one person in the U.S.

The wander continued to the Rialto Bridge, the Grand Canal, taking it all in, and getting the lay of the land before eventually landing at Osteria Alla Frasca, a charming spot in the Cannaregio district recommended by a friend and trusty, Conde Naste Best Restaurants in Venice.

Day 2: New Year’s Eve! The first full day in Venice started with cappuccinos and omelets made to order at Hotel Moresco. The day’s wander focused on bookstores, vintage shops, and a record store. The big faux pas was visiting Libreria Aqua Alta on a holiday. Visiting this gorgeous bookstore is a must (it also has two shop kitties), however, I’d recommend going first thing or later in the day. The shop was one-way traffic but still fun.

Finding a spot to watch the fireworks was tricky. Piazza San Marco (you cannot see the fireworks from the square) was PACKED and guards allowed only locals to get to some viewpoints. A fellow American tourist (you know the type that doesn’t like to be told, “No”) was gracious enough to attempt to bribe an officer and even include Jatin and me in the deal. It didn’t work. We took a quick peek at the suggested viewing points on the map and decided to backtrack to the Ponte dell'Accademia instead of fighting the crowds.

Day 3: Wednesday, January 1st: Vaporetto to Murano and Burano with friends, dinner at Orient Experience in Cannaregio

The best part of New Year’s Day was kicking off the year with friends who were gracious enough to take the train from Vicenza to spend the day bumming around Murano and Burano with us.

Murano was the first stop and much quieter on the way in than on the way out. Next time, I’d do Burano first, or in a perfect world, do Burano first, Torcello, and then Murano last. I was bummed not to see the ruins of Torcello.

Many shops were closed on Murano on New Year’s Day, however, the Museo de Vetro (Glass Museum) was open. I especially enjoyed learning about the millefiori glasswork and bead-making. One small travel fail was not coming home with a suitcase full of Murano glass beads. Unfortunately, three stores I wanted to visit were closed.

Burano was adorable but busy (probably not as busy as it would be on a summer day) and I did not research lace shops so no suitcase full of lace either. I snoozed on souvenirs this trip!

After a delicious lunch, we paraded around some side streets taking in the colorful houses, welcome splashes of color in winter. One of the day's best parts was Leah bringing her adorable dog along. Watching Marco interact with other dogs was fun and I realized Venice is incredibly dog-friendly.

After the Vaporetto ride back to Venice, we had time to kill and wandered around Cannaregio. We took a detour into this rustic shop featuring the freshest wine I’ve ever tasted.

The 5 of us shared dinner at Orient Experience in the Cannaregio neighborhood and were all wowed by the flavors. As you might guess from the name, Orient Experience is NOT Italian food, however, it offers an array of foods from several Middle Eastern countries such as Syria, Afghanistan, Iran, Türkiye, and Bangladesh.

Day 4: Thursday, January 2nd: explore the Jewish Ghetto, Ca’Pesaro Museum, San Giorgio Maggiore, Giudecca

The Jewish Ghetto is the oldest Jewish district in Europe. It dates back to the 16th century. Here’s a great article explaining the history of the neighborhood. I highly recommend exploring this neighborhood and learning the stories of resilience. Despite the Venetian Republic forcing Jewish people to live in this small area (for many years it was gated and walled), the community thrived and became a vibrant cultural center full of many flourishing businesses.

The Ca’Pesaro is a modern art museum featuring famous works from Rodin, Klimt, Warhol, Lichtenstein, and many more. The building itself is a work of art with decorative ceilings, marble staircases, expansive views of Venice’s tiled rooftops, and a charming cafe right on the water so you can linger longer. The second floor houses the Museum of Oriental Art. The temporary exhibition from Alessandro Cardinale titled Nüshu - Writing the Void was arguably the favorite discovery. Thin strips of canvas or iron are used to create female faces or landscapes of China, depending on where you walk or stand, the images either appear or disappear: a powerful exploration of Yao culture.

After sipping espressos at the Ca’Pesaro cafe, the wander continued to the vaporetto (water bus) to head over to San Giorgio Maggiore, one of Venice’s islands, to take in the view from the top of the church. This was a pro-tip from the Untold Italy Hidden Gems in Venice episode.

I believe it was around €8 to take the elevator to the top. As you can see from the photos, it was overcast so no issue with crowds. I imagine this to be a very popular viewpoint on sunnier days.

One more stop on the vaporetto led us to Giudecca. Giudecca was recommended by a friend and gallery neighbor at 78th Street Studios - he went to high school in Venice! Giudecca is where the locals live and recent gentrification has brought yummy restaurants and galleries. It’s also home of Fortuny, for all you textile lovers. Unfortunately, the factory was closed, but I did get to stare (and drool) in the windows. Many of the galleries were also closed due to it being a Thursday evening. We found local watering holes to relax in and observe the locals’ after-work rituals.

As gorgeous as Venice is, much of it feels touristy. Strolling through Giudecca at night had the opposite feeling. Venice is a different kind of quiet at night: no cars or scooters zooming, no horns. Occasionally you’ll hear the hum of a boat or echoes of conversations. Venice is beautiful any time of day or night.

Day 5: Friday, January 3rd: Peggy Guggenheim Museum, Cicchetti tour with Monica Ceserato

Book the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in advance and opt for the first entry. This museum is mighty but tiny. I was most excited to see this collection and it did not disappoint. Frank Stella, Mark Rothko, Jackson Pollock, René Magritte, Salvador Dalí, to name a few…AND earrings by Alexander Calder and Yves Tanguy - can you imagine these greats making earrings for you?

I was surprised to learn that Peggy Guggenheim’s daughter, Pegeen Vail was also an artist. I enjoyed her depictions of Venice. Sadly, she tragically passed away at a young age but her memory lives on in a room of the museum with paintings and glass sculptures.

Standing room only at the charming Osteria Al Squero. This popular spot is situated across the canal from the boathouse where the godolas are built and repaired. You can also arrange a tour of the boathouse.

5:30 eventually rolled around and it was FINALLY time to meet the dynamo, Monica Ceserato. I first heard Monica on the Untold Italy, of course. That led me to listen to her podcast, Venice Talks. Monica has also been featured on The Reluctant Traveler with Eugene Levy. I wanted to meet Monica because she is a fierce advocate for Venetians. Her podcast topics often focus on responsible tourism and environmental challenges in addition to the history and traditions of Venice.

This tour was a blast. We were with another American couple that was on holiday from teaching English in India (yes, they were bad influences!) There was a little chill in the air so we started the tour with hot chocolate (closer to a pudding texture, delicious) and a traditional Italian dessert. Then, we visited two very different cicchetterias - one more meat focused with red wine pairings and one seafood focused with white wine pairings. The standout wine that I CANNOT stop thinking about was the Raboso - a red wine from the Veneto region with a natural effervescence. Sadly, I don’t believe it’s possible to buy it in the U.S. But, I’ll keep trying. I also tried Monica’s favorite cocktail, Cinico, which she enthusiastically describes as Christmas with a hint of summer. Yum. Monica offers several tours - book one if you go to Venice. She’s a wealth of knowledge and a ton of fun.

Day 6: Saturday, January 4th: Cafe Florian, Gondola Ride, Walks of Italy night tour of Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, dinner at Nobili per gondolier!

The day started with an early morning walk to Piazza San Marco to take in the exterior St. Mark’s Basilica & The Doge’s Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and to land at the famous Caffè Florian, a coffee house established in 1720!

Next up: Gondola ride! The gondola ride was an experience. I loved being on the water, moving slowly through the canals. The gentle rocking of the boat was relaxing. Our gondolier was a hoot. He smoked two cigarettes and took a call during the ride. He then pointed out Napoleon’s house and the garage from the Italian Job. The big win was his restaurant recommendation for dinner. More on that later. No, he did not sing. I did not observe any gondoliers singing but I’m sure they’ll hum if you negotiate the price!

Next stop: a taste of luxury. If you’ve watched The Reluctant Traveler, you saw that Eugene Levy stayed at the iconic Gritti Palace.

We lucked out and got a table just in time for aperitivo hour. What a gorgeous place. My favorite part was when the waiter asked for our room number. A girl can dream.

Time for the grand finale…since I thought Venice would be quieter the days after New Year’s, I didn’t book the St. Mark’s Basilica/Doge’s Palace Tour in advance. Well, that turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The ONLY available tour from Walks of Italy (recommended by Rick Steves) was the Exclusive Alone in St. Mark’s & Doge’s Palace Tour. The tour started at the Doge’s Palace.

The next part of the tour was extraordinary. Walking into St. Mark’s Basilica gave me chills. Our wonderful guide directed us to sit in the dark, silent cathedral. The light switches were flipped on one by one and the golden mosaics began to shimmer. I remember a collective feeling of awe and wonder. Then, a few sniffles broke the silence from those who were moved to tears.

The other major advantage of this tour is having some alone time with Pala d’Oro. Made of gold, silver, and enamel and over 1,900 gems, this altar was built in Constantinople and is an early example of Byzantine enamels and cloisonné.

Another outrageous feature of the St. Mark’s Basilica is the tiled floors. The intricate patterns and colors are an artist’s dream. Another wild feature is that the floors are uneven, almost wavy. This could be due to settlement and aqua alta.

We ended the evening with dinner at Casin Dei Nobili, recommended by the gondolier. One last seafood risotto, glass of soave, giant slice of tiramisu, and one last quiet evening stroll along the canals.

Day 7: Sunday, January 5th: Took Rick Steve’s advice and did the “James Bond” departure to the airport.

If Saturday was the grand finale, then leaving was the encore. Parting is such sweet sorrow. However, arranging a private water taxi or “motoscafo” to the airport made it my favorite departure. After admiring the sleek, wooden speedboats all week, I was delighted to find one just outside Hotel Moresco waiting to whisk us away to the airport.

The crisp winter air, the mist, feeling like James Bond making a great escape as our captain (skipper?) passed other boats. I’ve never enjoyed leaving a place so much.

Some say you only need a day in Venice. I respectfully disagree. When the daytrippers depart, it’s a whole other city. Stay a night or three, take it slow, get lost, and make sure to walk around at night.

Grazie Mille,

Natalie

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 "I want to go to Türkiye."  

Door, Alaçati 

The Itinerary:

5 days on our own & 6 days with Tamam tour.

Tamam was gracious in accommodating travel dates, a delicate dance of maximizing school's Fall Break & returning just in time to Gallery 202 for Third Friday!

Alaçati

October was an awesome time to go.  We had perfect weather.  Daytime temps in the 70s, sunny, able to swim in the sea, able to dine outdoors comfortably, dreamy! 

Link to the map of most of the places visited, note a few extra places are bookmarked for next time

Thursday, October 6th: Flights: Turkish Air: Detroit -> Toronto -> Istanbul -> Izmir bus -> Alacati 

Friday, October 7th: Alaçati, Morisi Avlu

Saturday, October 8th: Alaçati, Morisi Avlu

Sunday, October 9th: Alaçati, Morisi Avlu 

Monday, October 10th: bus -> Izmir & flight Izmir -> Istanbul & Private transfer to Hotel Peradays

Tuesday, October 11th: Istanbul, Hotel Peradays

Wednesday: October 12th: Istanbul, The Bank Hotel

Thursday, October 13th: Istanbul, The Bank Hotel

Friday, October 14th: Istanbul, The Bank Hotel

Saturday, October 15th: private transfer to airport, Turkish Air: Istanbul -> Konya, Hich Hotel

Sunday, October 16th: Konya, Hich Hotel

Monday, October 17th: Cappadocia, Kilim Pension, Uçhisar

Tuesday, October 18th: Cappadocia, Kilim Pension, Uçhisar

Wednesday, October 19th: private transfer to Neveshir Airport -> Istanbul -> Boston -> Detroit 

Alaçati

Iconic Stone Windmills in Alaçati built in the 1850s

Friends (favorite Turkish Towel designers, Together Textiles) recommended Alaçati and it was the perfect jumping-off point for the trip: charming streets to wander, beautiful doors, colorful murals, stylish cafes, & close to the sea for sunny naps to fend off jet lag.  

Detail of floral mural in Alaçati

Alaçati is situated on the Çeşme Peninsula and easily accessible by a 45-minute bus ride from the Izmir Airport. The Havaş Bus was easy to find, comfortable, had plenty of room for luggage, and was inexpensive (around $8 one-way).

Alaçati

One of my favorite things to do in a new place is take an early morning walk.  I love seeing what the quieter times look like and watching the morning hustle and bustle.  In Alaçati, turns out, there is a massive Saturday Bazaar selling anything and everything, from produce to underwear.  I love a market.

Farmers Market 

Bread Delivery 

Turkish Towels

Gourds + Sunshine

Blooms + Olives

Carrie Lee found a charming B & B, Morisi Avlu, that featured an open-air, tiled courtyard where the first of many beautiful Turkish breakfasts was served.

Serene courtyard at Morisi Avlu 

Charming Morisi Avlu 

delectable breakfast spread at Morisi Avlu 

Alaçati is definitely geared towards tourists but was welcoming, beautiful, easy to navigate, and close (short, inexpensive bus ride less than $1.00) to the beach. 

Alaçati

First time at the Aegean, Ilica beach - noticed that locals were smearing sand on their faces spa spa-style so naturally, we joined in.  The seabed at Ilica Beach is fed with thermal springs and you could feel the warm waters rising in spots.  Incredible.  

The Aegean from Ilica Beach

Beach Club 

Took the bus over to Çeşme for lunch and to check out Çeşme Castle (built in 1508) and enjoyed the introduction to Turkish artifacts, old coins, ceramic vessels, and views.

Lunch spot in Çeşme

Lunch Guest 

View from Çeşme Castle 

View from Çeşme Castle 

BC 6th Century - BC 4th Century Clay Pots at Çeşme Castle 

Çeşme Castle 

I'd be remiss if I did not mention, Fava,  the favorite restaurant spot in Alaçati.  My sister and I dined there twice!  Their mezes (appetizer/tapas) were incredible.  One had blueberry and mint  was divine.  Felt like summer as dinner could be enjoyed outside on the beautiful patio.  The Turkish wine was also a delight to try anywhere but especially at Fava.  

Love a Flamingo Logo 

Hacımemiş neighborhood, Alaçati

Overall, the first days were spent soaking in the sun, wandering the streets & alleyways, exploring beautiful, handmade boutiques, frequent stops for Turkish coffee and tea.  

Alaçati was the perfect start to this adventure.  

Hacımemiş neighborhood, Alaçati 

Hacımemiş neighborhood, Alaçati 

One of many furry Alaçati Ambassadors 

Next visit: explore Ephesus and the Zeki Müren Art Museum, located at his home in Bodrum.  More on Müren when we get to carpets.


Next up: Istanbul



Thank you for reading,

Natalie 

"Making Peace with Marrakech".

If you like doors, cats, and rugs, this is the post for you!

Marrakech, 2023

Morocco is a special place to me.  It was the country I visited my first time abroad.  This was my third trip and I loved feeling more and more at ease with the experience of getting around.  Everyone has different travel philosophies and I'm often asked about mine: "Why do you keep going back when there's so many other places in the world to see?" Do you really get to experience a place if you only go for two weeks, hit up tours and sightsee, run yourself ragged, and never go back?  

The older I get, the less I want to see and the more I want to be.  There is nothing more satisfying than having days with no itinerary (other than a rooftop breakfast and mint tea) and simply wandering.  

the color combinations in Marrakech are dreamy

will this all fit into my luggage?

I'm fortunate because my buddy, Annie, has also fallen for frequenting Morocco and we've teamed up the past two trips.  We're already talking about the next one.

Rooftop times in Essaouira 

Spring Break is only a week but is a great time weather-wise to go.  Annie and I talked A LOT about cancelling because flights were really tough and it was such a short amount of time.  Once we decided on the "Better a few days than none at all" mentality, things all fell into place.  

along the walk to the Medina 

The days were split between Essaouira and Marrakech.  We really could spend the whole week in just one place.  

Rooftop view from Penthouse Marrakech

Our crazy flights (7AM moved up to 6AM) at the end of our adventure prompted us to search for a stay in Gueliz, a newer part of Marrakech that is closer to the airport.  It was a smart move and if it weren't for the crazy flights, we maybe wouldn't have ever found Faysal and Penthouse Marrakech. 

the "new" 2016, I believe, Marrakech Airport is beautiful

Making Peace with Marrakech:

On my first trip to Marrakech in 2007, my head was spinning.  First time abroad, everything felt like it was moving so fast because it was.  Marrakech is a fast-paced place with whirling roundabouts, intense games of frogger with every crossing, scooters, cars, carts with produce in every direction...the thing is, those first time feelings were exactly the same on this trip but I arrived determined to find the joy and magic.  And I did.  Grateful to make new memories and will definitely go back for more someday!

My favorite alley 

Marrakech AirBnb: Penthouse Marrakech featuring Juliette & Amsterdam.  Faysal and his team were incredible.  Offering a welcome tea, gorgeous rooftop breakfasts, and directions and advice on anywhere we wanted to go.  Faysal also has a team of drivers making transport from the airport a breeze.  

Rooftop breakfast at Penthouse Marrakech

Amsterdam  & Juliette's afternoon nap

The rooms were a great setup for two people or even two couples.  Each room had its own bathroom,  door to the patio, and sitting area. The common sitting area and kitchen were located in the center.  There was an elevator making transporting bags a breeze.

We got a kick out of Amsterdam riding the elevator with us!   
   

In Marrakech, Annie and I had the opportunity to tour Heritage Museum Marrakech, an antiques museum housed in a gorgeous 17th century riad.  The museum is family owned and by happenstance, we met the family while rug shopping at Tairist in Essaouira in 2019.  Maha and her mother are now based in Marrakech and we were thrilled to reconnect with them.  

Heritage Museum Marrakech

original tile staircase at Heritage Museum Marrakech 

Rooftop of Heritage Museum Marrakech

Heritage Museum Marrakech 

Heritage Museum Marrakech provided a peaceful sanctuary from bustling medina. We learned about old farming equipment, tribal sewing techniques, jewelry and adornment, rug-making, and early ceramics and vessels.  It is an impressive collection of Moroccan cultural artifacts and I highly recommend you add this museum to your list of stops when visiting Marrakech.

Natalie, Annie, & Maha 

Another highlight was visiting LRNCE, a lifestyle brand based on Marrakech featuring handmade ceramics, textiles, home decor, clothing, and sandals. 

LRNCE is located outside of the main area of Marrakech and we actually used the inDriver App (similar to Lyft) to find a driver.  The app is new in Morocco but is causing conflict with the Taxi companies (heavily regulated) and inDriver (no regulation).  Just like Lyft, we chose a driver with a lot of positive reviews and turns out, he was awesome.  We had a great ride to LRNCE (about 25 minutes) and our driver was willing to wait for us while we shopped since the location is not in a tourist area and taxis are difficult to come by.

That being said, LRNCE was definitely worth the adventure.  For a brand I'd only followed online, everything was even more gorgeous in person.  The visit took up part of the day so if you do decide to make the trek (and you should) give yourself enough travel time and make sure to have your driver agree on waiting for you.


Marrakech: The Doors 

A few favorites in Marrakech

My absolute favorite thing to do on any vacation anywhere is take an early morning walk.  I love experiencing how places set up for the day and watching cities come to life.  In most cultures, mornings are a slow start, unlike the hustle and bustle of home.  I had one good morning to wander through Marrakech and it did not disappoint.

first stop, orange juice 

these colors...

The orange juice in Morocco is the best in the world.

While I thought I got an early start, it wasn't quite early enough.  Penthouse Marrakech was a good 30 minute walk to the medina so by the time I arrived, things were already moving.  The daily commute was in full swing.  My photos may appear peaceful but please know each photo was taken within seconds of me being knocked over by some sort of method of commuting!  

Children grabbing a treat on the way to school

 They call Marrakech the "Red City" because of the color of the clay used in the architecture.  In the light, the entire city ranges from shades of pink to coral to orange to red.  I experience shades I never knew existed.  It is a dream color palette for any artist.   

Our timing was off to visit some of the usual sites such as Le Jardin Majorelle.  Ramadan started while we were in Marrakech and most stands and restaurants shut down early to give people time to celebrate with families.  It was special to observe the anticipation of closing down early to celebrate with family. 
So, we'll just have to get back to Marrakech one day.


On to Essaouira, our favorite seaside town...

I can't forget to mention Brahmin Taxi Airport Service!  We loved our drivers and Brahim was recommended to us by Youssef of Darna Design.  We met Youssef at the Palm Springs Vintage Market and if you're in California, look up his festival schedule! 

Quick Disclaimer:  Essaouira had more cats this season than I remembered.  Cats everywhere.  I love cats.  If you don't appreciate their freedom and presence in every nook and cranny (and restaurant!!) then Essaouira may not be the place for you.

This man also loves cats - he also was thrilled we asked to take his photo!

And, it was kitten season!

Essaouira 

Door to our beautiful Airbnb

We loved our blue and white Essaouira AirBnb: Honey & Cinnamon Riad - absolutely beautiful and conveniently located near one of the gates of the Medina making it a breeze to get to.  

Airbnb balconies and gorgeous tiled stairs

Essaouira is a beautiful, laid back city and with only two full days here, we set our sights on wandering and taking in the beach at sunset.

On our first wander, we encountered a lovely woman named Fatima.  Fatima offered us a quick tour to all of her friend's shops and restaurants so we'd know where to go.  

Fatima and Annie hanging out in a spice shop 

In the moment, our walk felt so natural.  In retrospect, it seemed a little odd that a woman could just reroute herself on her way home to show two tourists around.  In the end, she refused any sort of tip or offering.  She truly seemed to want to show us the best of Essaouira and to help her friends.   We walked past the shops she showed us several times and we were met with smiles and waves from the merchants. Our first evening in Essaouira was even warmer and friendlier than we remembered.
  

Sunset and live music 

found a few treasures on the beach 

After spending some time at the beach taking in a gorgeous, picture perfect sunset, Annie and I wandered over to Triskala, a small, farm-to-table restaurant that is so fresh, the menus are written on chalkboards.  This menu was SO fresh it even changed while we were waiting for our table.  Triskala specializes in vegetarian and seafood specials making it the perfect spot in my book!

Have to give Natailya of Drift Home Collection (an IG friend from Texas that has a shared love of Moroccan Rugs) a shout out for recommending Triskala and a number of other spots we enjoyed!

This pic is from the SECOND time we ate at Triskala, absolutely incredible

dinner with kitties at Adwak

Our other dinner was at Restaurant Adwak, a great spot for traditional Moroccan dishes.  

This kitty was hoping I'd share my fish tagine.

Essaouira: The Doors

Looking back, I think my door obsession started sometime during my first trip to Morocco.  Essaouira's doors are some of my all time favorites.  The blues, the way the paint chips, the way they're worn over time, the layers, it all tells a story and I could stare at them forever.  

Doors of Essaouira 

lots of kitty photobombs 

so grand and the perfect color combo

My favorite door over time

2023 vs 2019

I'm not sure I've found the right words but seeing this door again and how it has faded and worn felt like the perfect symbol for the time that has passed.

so.many.doors

Another amazing reason to visit Essaouira is to go rug shopping.  

Tairist, the shop we visited in 2019, was transforming into a gallery (we got a sneak peek!) 

and if you're in Essaouira, be sure to check it out!  

We visited Bazar Mehdi  - same family as Tairist, and had a blast sipping mint tea and rug shopping.  One small problem was we saved rug shopping for our last day and that made decision making difficult.  I typically am good at making decisions but with rugs, I like to sleep on it. Every rug is truly a handcrafted work of art.  I felt  a little panicked because let's face it, you can't go home and think and measure again.  It could be years before I get back!  I had my sights set on finding a more traditional Beni Ourain for the living room and thought that'd be easy enough. 

Bazar Mehdi specializes in vintage rugs as well as new.  

How do you even begin to choose?!  

Aziz was a rockstar and so patient with us.  We applauded as he unveiled each rug!

After much debate, Annie gave this 1960s boujad stunner a home 

I was worried it was a little small but it was so fluffy and cozy, I couldn't resist

Vintage (90s) Beni Ourain from Bazar Mehdi - lines are indigo instead of black

Considering layering it with a jute rug...what do you think? 

And then Aziz showed me this rug...Love at first sight

Vintage (90s) Boujad, Bazar Mehdi Essaouira 

Mimi the shop kitty approves

Vintage Boujad (80s) from Tairist, sister store to Bazar Mehdi, Essaouira

Rugs proudly displayed: is the house looking too Moroccan?  Is there such a thing?

In all seriousness, if you're considering rugs for your home, Aziz and the Bazar Mehdi team are wonderful, they can do FaceTime appointments and find the perfect rug.  Speaking from experience, I can say with confidence that their rugs are even more beautiful in person.

Like this one:

In 2022, Maha of Tairist helped me pick this Beni Mguild rug possibly from between the 60s - 80s, I bought it through photos and it arrived even more beautiful that I ever could have imagined.  

I'm always happy to share connections, recommendations, and advice on visiting this beautiful country.  I'm fortunate that I've been able to visit 3 times and each time feels better and better as I get my footing.

Yes, there's a great big world out there to explore but I'll always return to Morocco.  

Next time, who's coming with me?

Thanks for reading,

Natalie