After a coldish start, Sunday turned into a beautifully warm and sunny day that was interspersed with the warm perfume of jasmine. Bowie wasn’t keen on walking, I think he may have hurt a paw on our Saturday outing to Kloovenburg wine estate.

We were off to the Afsaal Padstal and St Helena Bay on Monday morning to meet friends from Fish Hoek. For a change, the drive to Velddrif and Vredenburg wasn’t in a thick fog.

We were about 30 minutes early, so I kept on past the Afsaal Padstal towards the sea, a road I haven’t driven previously. One gets to a sandy track, with the sea seemingly close but never entirely in view. And then, just as I wanted to turn around, I could see a beach in the distance.

We’d had a slow drive. A leg stretcher was needed. There were also flowers next to the pad. I took Bowie for a short walk.

We got to the padstal [farm stall] about one-minute late; I dislike being late. It’s the duitser [German] in me. About three dogs greeted us and Bowie was a little reticent to get out. Some coaching from Pa [dad] and all was good.

A white van pulled up. Out stumbled five dogs and four humans. R., G., M. and N. had arrived. I had met R&G a few years ago while walking along that promenade in Fish Hoek. They were enjoying sundowners with some friends and offered us a beer. I was with my best friend L., who was on a short visit from Germany, and his sister K., who lives around the corner. Anyway, we had gotten talking, the South African way, and then R., G. and I met again when they stayed over at the campsite in Nuwerus on their way to Namibia.

The padstal tannie was watching us, holding onto the collar of a Great Dane. “Is julle vandag oop?” [Are you open today?], I asked having realized it was a Monday. “Ja, ons is oop. Kom in” [Yes, we’re open, come in].

“Mag ons die honde inbring?” [May we bring in the dogs?], realizing that we had more than Noah’s Ark of dogs. “Ja, kom in. Ek vat net gou my honde huis toe.” [Yes, come in. I’ll just take my dogs home”]. She had brought her dogs to the padstal for a change of scenery but wasn’t sure about the Great Dane.

I hadn’t met M. in person previously, though he’s a Substack follower and we’ve chatted a few times. My first time meeting N. Not a problem. Catalysed by the dogs and a beautiful sunny day, we quickly fell into the smooth rhythm of a nice kuier [social].

They do really nice food at the Afsaal Padstal. Some of us got smoked haddock and poached eggs, others the omelette with camembert cheese and green fig filling. Someone didn’t want bacon (!?)

The dogs were happy. Bowie was dry humping one dog, then got the same treatment from another dog. Ai, die kinders. It wasn’t long and Bowie was lying in the shade, recovering.

The homo sapiens played catch-up with stories and anecdotes. The padstal tannie came to sit with us, telling us about she and her husband make cheese. We got more bread, with green fig jam.

After a lekker kuier, we took the road to Paternoster. M. would follow me. N. jumped into my car’s navigator seat. More chatting while we were taking a slow drive. Behind us, M. was having trouble coaxing the oxen into a trot.

We stopped for a juvenile mole snake crossing the road, which was having some trouble getting up the roadside embankment. M. still hadn’t caught up with us.

Genades, I realized later that we only talked about me and my bla bla. Rude on my part!

“How about adding some watercolour paintings to your stories”, N. suggested. I’ll look into that, a more feasible option in the cottage than painting with oils.

R. wanted to go for a swim. Jinne, kinders, the water is too cold on the WesKus! We went for a lekker walk on the beach. More dogs, and a ‘kugel’, M.’s expression, who couldn’t stop talking - I hadn’t heard that expression in a long time. At one point, there were about 8 dogs around us having fun.

Koek en tee [cake & tea] at the Koekemakranka coffee shop at the Paternoster Waterfront and then we took our different roads home. Bowie was lekker moeg [very tired] and slept all the way home.

It had been a lekker dag at the seaside.

It was a warm Wednesday, with 25C in the cottage and 29C in direct sunlight. It’s time to get the kortbroek [shorts] out again. The warm weather brings flies, not comfortable. At least no horseflies [blindevlieë] as in Namaqualand at this time of the year.

On the neighbouring plaas [farm], the early peach trees have started bearing fruit while the late peaches are still in full bloom.

It was the Piketberg Blommeweek and Hopefield Fynbos Skou this week and I had bought tickets for the latter on Thursday. I have not been to either event previously and was looking forward to a talk by Gideon Melck: ‘Discover the remarkable Koekemakranka’ (Gethyllis villosa)12.

I had no preconceived ideas about the Hopefield Fynbos Skou, which was held on the sports fields. There were a number of tents, some of them commercial, and lots of food trucks. I don’t mind this, it keeps the ticket prices low and adds a bit of fun.

We had a walk around the grounds, as we were a little early for the first talk. One of the food trucks had a melktert knypkoek [jaffel], which I had to try. Bowie got a boerie jaffel. He was quite confused by the cow at one of the dairy stands.

Some of the tents had displays of flowers and plants. Not big flower displays, as one would probably see at the Clanwilliam Flower Show, which was unfortunately cancelled this year, but smaller more intimate, informative displays.

The talks were held in a smallish tent with a table, chairs and sofas. An environment that was quite cosy and conducive to a chatty atmosphere.

Ja, and dogs were allowed. Bowie was at his best behaviour, lying on a carpet during the talks, sometimes ‘talking’ to me. Later on, in the big display tent, he went for an ‘unauthorized’ splash in one of the ponds. One of the local ouma’s looked at him, shaking her head, with a big smile.

Gideon Melck’s talk on the Koekemakranka plant was fantastic! He’s a local farmer and his love for and knowledge about this plant seems to come from his father. I know the koekemakranka plant from my time in Namaqualand and was keen to learn more. The word koekemakranka is one of the few Khoi words that’s still used in South Africa. Also, it’s the only word in Afrikaans with four k’s in it, and Gideon’s father started using a ‘4 k s’ abbreviation. I’d sent Gideon some photos after the Thursday talk and didn’t understand the ‘4 k s’ sign-off until attending Saturday’s talk.

The koekemakranka is a geophyte, i.e. plants with underground storage organs3, that can be recognized by its spiral foliage. It also displays ‘Hysteranthy, a phenomenon where plants flower without leaves being present, while the plant is inactive.’4

Gideon Melck’s father had noticed that the number of koekemakranka plants was decreasing and started collecting their seeds. These seeds were then disseminated amongst acquaintances, while also planting seeds himself.

These seeds were always planted directly in the soil, not in pot plants, so as to prevent the seedlings and plants getting too hot. Also, the plants were never watered, thus obtaining moisture through the natural weather cycles.

The seeds will germinate one leaf in year one, and then two leaves in year two etc. The spiral foliage of the leaf may be to collect the moisture from fog in coastal regions. According to Florent Grenier5, the adaptive significance of these wavy leaves is currently speculative, and he proposes that it may be to maximize leaf surface during the winter or to provide resistance to high winds or trampling by herbivores.

Back to Gideon Melck’s talk. There are regional names [volksmond] for the koekemakranka, such as the ‘sandman’ in the Sandveld region. In the Swartland, ‘ruikertjie’ or ‘voëldermpie’ [bird intestine] is used. ‘Ruikertjie’ which reflects the scent of the fruit; ruik being smell in Afrikaans, while ‘voëldermpie’ is due to the thin shape of the plant in the Swartland region.

These plants, though the same species, differ in their physiological and physical characteristics due to the mineral and mechanical properties of the soil. For example, the sandman grows a big bulb and stem, due to the loose, sandy soil, while the ruikertjie/voëldermpie is very thin, due to the dense soil in the Swartland.

The koekemakranka usually flowers in December. The flower is not fragrant and only lasts 3-5 days. Only one flower is produced per plant bulb. The flowers do not self-pollinate but one can artificially pollinate different flowers by using a paint brush to ‘carry’ pollen from one flower to the next.

The flower has a narrow tube which extends below the ground, where the fruit will develop. In mid-winter, the long, club-shaped berry emerges from the ground6. This process takes 4-5 months.

The ripe fruit has a sweet, fruity odour and the fruits ‘were once popular to perfume rooms and linen’7. The fruits can be steeped in brandy, which is an old Cape remedy for colic and indigestion8.

The seeds are germinated in May and June by animals walking on the seed pod, though animals may also disseminate the seeds during defecation after eating the fruit. During the first year after seed germination, the plant develops a bulb that will be up to 300 mm deep to reach the moisture in the soil below. The different soil layers ‘message’ the plant to go deeper. The bulb develops roots that then extend a further half metre or so further down into the soil.

Of the approximately 50 seeds in one fruit, only 2 or 3 will develop into a plant. The bulbs can also divide to produce more plants and clusters of up to 18 bulbs have been found. Moles and porcupines [] dig up the bulbs.

Stages of development:

• Stage 1: the flower appears.

• Stage 2: the fruit appears a few months after pollination, and seeds are disseminated.

• Stage 3: Leaves appear with the fruit

Some farmers are now actively fencing off areas to protect the koekemakranka from ploughing and animals such as rabbits. Though animals do not generally eat the leaves, their presence can damage the fragile plants and leaves.

Ploughing can disrupt the chemical and microbial layers of the soil, and thus low-till farming is recommended for better soil health. Amongst others, the normal pH of the soil (pH 6-7) can be decreased to pH 4 by ploughing, which can introduce new undesired plant species and weeds.

Gideon Melck also talked a bit about ‘veranderlike kunsmistoediening’ [variable fertilizer application], which is the specific application of fertilizer and minerals based on soil sampling and yield quantitation.

This year’s wheat is of a poor quality due to the dry winter, and some farmers have started harvesting their wheat early for use as animal feed.

To finish off, Gideon Melck stated that farmers

• need to conserve the soil

• remember that the farm is temporarily his/hers

• work carefully with their income.

I missed some details on Wednesday and thus decided to return to the Hopefield Fynbos Skou on Saturday to fill in the gaps.

I managed to attend a second talk on Wednesday: ‘Geneesingsgeheime uit die Fynbos-Apteek’ [Healing Secrets from the Fynbos Pharmacy], by Nicola Viljoen of Hopefield Herbs. This talk was a little different, as there were only a few people in attendance and we all sat around a big table, with Nicola leading somewhat of a discussion.

Nicola Viljoen started by referring to humans as inverted plants, which is a concept that I need to read up on and digest910. There was discussion of the kapokbos (wild rosemary; Eriocephalus africanus), African Salvia (Salvia africana), orange essential oils, olienhout (wild olive; Olea europaea subs. africana), lavender, agtdaegeneesbos (Lobostemon fruticosus). Maybe Antoinette Pienaar (oom Johannes is unfortunately deceased) could be convinced to give a talk next year? I couldn’t keep up will all the nuances of the dicussion and have got a fair bit of reading to do.

Then, while walking through the ‘commercial’ tents, two serendipitous meetings with old friends. First, it was E&F, who I met a few years ago at Leeuwenboschfontein near Touwsrivier. They now live in Langebaan, so there’s a kuier coming. And then it was G&P, who I probably haven’t seen for a good 40 years or longer. I remember their wedding, where Junior was one of the bridesmaids, all in turquoise.

On Friday, it was dorp [town] day again. Bowie got his inoculations update in the afternoon, but before that we visited the church, old synagogue and museum for Piketberg Blommeweek. The theme was voëlverskrikkers [scarecrows].

The Old Synagogue was a special treat with both flower displays and a woodwork display. They’s had 300 visitors already by lunchtime on Friday, one of the tannies told me. Bowie was allowed into both the Old Synagogue and the museum as he’s so well behaved and charming the aunties.

At the vet’s later, Bowie was fine with his injection, but not keen on the deworming tablet, moving away from the vet. Afterwards, he got a nice treat, and all was good.

On Saturday, we were back at the Hopefield Fynbos Skou for a re-visit at Gideon Melck’s talk on the Koekemakranka (updates included above) and then Leon Kluge with ‘A journey along the West Coast’. Bowie was very rustig [patient] at Gideon’s talk but then got a bit restless at Leon’s talk and, unfortunately, we had to leave early.

The short bit of Leon Kluge’s talk was very interesting and insightful. The fynbos ‘terroir’ has been shaped by our unique climate, the rocks and soil. However, today’s vast expanses of daisies were shaped by ploughing, quarrying and over-grazing11 as the daisies were more isolated in years gone by.

The vibrant flowers are due to the short rainfall season and the need to get pollinated, most of which is done by insects. The flower displays provide ‘visual flags’ during the day, while smells and scents are more pervasive during the evening, when the winds have settled. Nectar attracts mostly birds while oils are important for solitary bees. Leon started talking about wavelengths of light when I left, with insects and birds seeing UV wavelengths as well as the wavelengths seen by humans, though less infra-red. More reading to do.

Bowie and I then went on a tractor ride, sitting on bales of straw, though no flowers were on display, in part due to the overcast weather. Then we also got a fridge magnet (tannie magnet?) at one of the stalls. By mid-afternoon, we were a little over-peopled and we drove back to the cottage.

On Sunday, we drove to Citrusdal for a lunch date with G&P, who we had met on Thursday at the Hopefield Fynbos Skou. They were on their way from Clanwilliam to Riebeek Kasteel and we had lunch at the Old Village Modderfontein.

We were a bit early and went for a walk up the old Grey’s Pass, which predates the current Piekenierskloof pass.

Afterwards, we had a lekker lunch and gesêlsie with G&P at the restaurant, where they had a Sunday buffet with kerrie afval [curried offal], groenboontjie bredie [green bean stew], pork chops, chicken pie and various vegetables, finished off with a malva pudding and vla [custard]. We had a lot of catching up to do, it’s been about 50 years (!) since we last saw each other.

Before taking a slow drive back to the cottage, Bowie and I had a walk around the village, meeting some donkeys along the way.

Once back at the cottage, Bowie grabbed his ball and we went for another walk to end a nice day.

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After doing some chores on Monday (the car really needed a wash, I was already a week late) and then taking Bowie for a few walks (he was quite restless), I decided to sign up for some first-year university courses on Khan Academy. I started with Integral Calculus, which I’ve been wanting to do for quite a quite (Differentiation to follow). My maths skills are really weak these days, except for mental calculations that I do regularly.

On the Tweefontein plaas next door, they’ve been checking the irrigation systems, as it’s been a dry winter. As per usual, there were a few leaks, which were fixed. There’s always something to do on a farm.

On Wednesday, we drove into town to meet Dr Poobie Pillay and his wife Ven, who’ve been doing a blommetjies trip through Namaqualand. Before that, though, some things to do. I took some recycling to the dump, then to the vets as Bowie needs his annual immunizations and deworming treatment. Then Clicks for my hypertension medication and lastly a visit to the pet shop for some Bowie treats.

Then it was time for breakfast with the Poobie’s at the Crazy Cat Café. A lot of catching up about their blommetjies trip (I’ve got a new place to visit near Kamieskroon) and the unfortunate tyre blow-out while on the way to the Biedow Valley. Both Bowie and I got lots of treats, it felt a bit like Christmas! I got some ‘sev and nuts’, which I’ve not had previously and were delicious. Bowie got a new ball toy, which we took on our play walk later and a drying down towel, for his dam and river swims (so thoughtful!). I nearly forgot the cupcakes from Kamieskroon; they were finished by the end of the day. I was quite apprehension about getting on the scales on Thursday morning 🫣.

Bowie was a little bit on the quiet side initially though later happily posed for pictures.

I don’t really know how to describe a lekker kuier with people that I’ve not met previously ‘in the flesh’ other than to say that they left for Paternoster after one and a half hours. Incredibly down-to-earth and humble!

Afterwards, Bowie and I went for a nice walk on the Dennegeur plaas to ont-dorp [de-people] a bit and stretch our legs. Bowie had to stay in the car while I ran into the shops. Except for the pet shop, he’s allowed to come in there.

On one part of the plaas, they were getting ready to plant a new orchard of pear trees, with Elisha and Nick watering the new trees. On the other side of the farm, our favourite anties were pruning the older pear trees. We went to say ‘Hello’, but I neglected to take a photo.

On our evening walk, Bowie found a small tortoise, about 12 cm long, a parrotbeak padloper (Homopus areolatus). This is somewhat problematic, as Bowie seems to think these are toys. It took me a while, but eventually I dissuaded Bowie from his interest in the tortoise, and it was on its way, crawling under a bush.

Every day there are new flowers to be seen, Spring has come early this year.

On Friday, plaas Ma was kuiering [visiting] somewhere and I had to water the small buchu plants. These will be planted out in September, all hands-on-deck, but before that they have to be acclimatized to full sunlight for one week. Currently, they’re under 40% cut-off netting.

Afterwards, we went for a walk on the Kruistementvlei farm, where the Piket-Bo-Berg farmers’ market is usually held and which we haven’t visited for a while. We were met by Buchu, one of the farm collies, and then visited the varkies [pigs], so cute, before taking one of the veld footpaths. I saw lots of Renosterveld flowers, the veld looks different on that side of the valley

Getting back to the cottage, an email from the car insurers that I hadn’t provided them with the RC1 car ownership document (a third-party claim). I was a bit annoyed, as I had sent it to them twice already. Then A.S. showed me that I had sent them the MVL1 document, which looks the same on the internet

But I couldn’t find the RC1, and it would cost me a 300 km round-trip to outer Cape Town and a long wait in a traffic office queue for a replacement. These are the times when a melktert shouldn’t be within reach, as I’d finish it in no time. After a snooze, I had a brainwave and went to look through me boxes again, finding the required document. Sigh of relief, that could’ve spoilt my weekend!

On Saturday morning, we took a drive in the direction of Riebeek Kasteel to Kloovenburg wine estate. I wanted a bit of quiet; the chainsaws and crop sprayers had been busy on the neighbouring farms this week. Also, they have a nice, demanding walk on the farm and they’re pet friendly.

The car park was quite full, and the coffee shop was busy by the time that we got to Kloovenburg at around 10 am. They’d had a fun run on the farm (I don’t understand the concept of ‘fun’ and run). A few stragglers were still coming in, but we could set off after signing an indemnity form and Bowie had greeted all and sundry.

The berg [mountain] was shrouded in cloud, which was a bit of a surprise but not a showstopper. A second and very pleasant surprise were the blommetjies. I hadn’t realized that the mountainside was renosterveld, with many of the plants in bloom. Many of these flowers I have not seen before this year, not even in Darling. Interesting, many of the flowers seemed to be zonal in terms of altitude.

The uphill part of the ‘Kringe in die Bos’ [Circles in the Forest]1 walk is along a narrow gorge with a small stream, which had very little water. It’s quite steep, I was puffing by the time we got to the top. No baboons this time, which made our previous walk a little uncomfortable.

Bowie was quite excited and a little impatient in waiting for me, though he did come back a few times, as he always does.

The downhill part of the walk is a gravel tweespoor [two-track] that probably requires a good 4x4 car. This part of the walk has nice views towards Riebeek Kasteel and the Swartland on one side, and the road towards Malmesbury on the other side.

The flowers here were also somewhat different, as the mountainside is more exposed to the elements. By this time, Bowie was getting a little impatient with my photography stops, I wasn’t allowed to loiter.

It had gone midday by the time we left Kloovenburg and I decided to stop in Riebeek Kasteel for a short walk there and lunch.

Riebeek Kasteel is one of those towns that seems to attract ‘expats’ from Cape Town and Gauteng, and day visitors from Cape Town. There are antique and wine stores, a contemporary art gallery, ‘spirit’ and soapy shops. Big cars and big motorcycles. I saw a Triumph motorbike that probably cost more than my car. Midlife crises and floral dresses.

And still, I quite like it for an hour or two’s visit. We walked down the mall, where I hoping to see Andries Dirks, the clay wizard; doors closed, weekend. I had been keen on eating at the french restaurant, but there wasn’t anything that said ‘Hello’ and "I ended up at the Rusty Cantina for quesidillas with black beans and slow-roasted peppers. Nothing to write home about; nice, nothing more.

On the way out, I stopped to buy some roosterbrood for two ‘parking wardens’ and one for me. It came with a nasturtium as garnish, that kind of annerste [different] that this part of Kasteel excudes.

Bowie and I were peopled out. No loitering, we headed back to the cottage.

We were invited for kerrie afval [curried offal stew] with C&A on Saturday evening. Not to be missed, A.S. can cook an afval. Finished off with a nice apple tart made by C.S., a nice gesellige [cosy?] end to a wonderful day.

The dogs were quiet, seeming to watch the Springboks vs. All Blacks game on the tv in the next room. The ‘boks were outscored 5 tries to 1, which is a bit of a hiding. Many a coach, including the Saturday afternoon types, would’ve started the blame game, but Rassie Erasmus provided quite an objective response after the game. That’s sport; win some, lose some.

It was a bit cold on Sunday morning before the sun showed itself over the koppie [hill]. We went for a short walk, and I put a sourdough loaf in the air-fryer. The dough has been fermenting since Wednesday and had a nice sour tang.

I finish off with Bowie in a regal pose. Some guinea fowl had distracted him from his new toy.

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It’s been a cold few days with a ‘black southeaster’ blowing, though not much in terms of rain. It’s that cold wind that brings snow to Sutherland and Lesotho, this time even Oudtshoorn, and find a way through your clothes, no matter how many layers.

Bowie and I still went for our walks, though not quite as far as on warmer days. We’ve found a new occupation: playing ball. For this, we walk along a grassy patch below the buchu fields. Bowie brings the ball along from the cottage and he decides when Dad gets the ball. It’s a game of chase, with Dad not allowed to get too close to Bowie, who then jumps up and runs away. After a few run-arounds, Bowie may drop the ball. Then it’s time to play catch. Dad’s still learning to through the ball properly, making it easier for Bowie to catch. We’re getting there, slowly.

On Wednesday morning, I had a contemplative walk with Bowie. The sun was shining, the wind not quite so cold as over the last few days. I should’ve gone to the dorp [town] for my weekly shop but decided to delay until Friday. I should really go on Pensioners Tuesday at the local Spar.

A ‘lazy’ day to do some reading, I even picked up a book (Buckingham Palace, District 6). Most of my reading these days, though, is on the internet. That 5-minute bug has also caught me. I miss travelling on the train, reading more substantive works. Aren’t books expensive in South Africa?

I found an interesting article on FaceBook about the origins of town and place names, specifically around the Karoo town of Prieska, which gets its name from a ‘distortion of the Nama word “Priskab” - the place of the lost goat’. Some names have an Afrikaans origin: Putsonderwater, Kaiingbult, Draghoener, Rokoptel, Keelafsny; others Nama: Oeboegoerra (small fountain), Ibekwa (murderer’s place), Khamasas (fountain of the lions). Each name has a story to tell.

A while ago, one of the Fish Hoek tannies introduced me to the ‘boerewors curtain’, which is ‘the informal boundary between the Northern and Southern Suburbs of Cape Town.’ Reading an interesting eye opener article on Substack, I was introduced to the ‘lentil curtain’ that reflects a certain stereotype ‘of an organic vegetable patch, dreadlocked beard and cow in the backyard’ in certain parts of the Cape Peninsula. The BBC article also has some nice spots to visit around the peninsula, somewhat different from the usual touristy haunts.

I’ve also been doing some reading on photography. Specifically, food, which I’ve struggled with a bit. Joanie Simon has posted Composition Tools on Substack, which have changed my mindset. Part 1: Using the Two Squares in Every Frame. Part 2: How I Use the Golden Spiral.

Somewhere I found ‘Specimens of Bushman Folklore’, by W.H.I. Bleek and L.C. Lloyd [1911], which provides ‘a very small portion of the Bushman native literature collected’. I read two stories, namely ‘The Mantis Assumes the Form of a Hartebeest’ and ‘The Story of the Leopard Tortoise’. I struggled to understand either story.

I had rain updates from Namaqualand. Garies had a good 5 mm over the weekend, though Kamieskroon only had about 1 mm. Nieuwoudtville missed the weekend rain, and a strong ooswind [easterly wind] is affecting the flowers; maybe they’ll keep for a few more days. I’m hoping for a second blooming near Garies!

On Thursday, Bowie and I took a drive to Darling to visit the various wildflower reserves that have been setup to preserve, amongst others, regions of Renosterveld and Lowland Fynbos Biome. There are at least three of these reserves, namely the Tienie Versveld Wildflower Reserve, Darling Renosterveld Reserve and the Waylands Wildflower Reserve. I visited the latter last year and was stunned by the wide array of flowers that I saw, many of which I had not seen previously.

“The West Coast flower region gives rise to no fewer than 1200 different flowering plant species, 80 of which are endemic to the West Coast and found nowhere else. More than 10% of the Cape Floral Kingdom occurs in less than 1% of the area in Darling. Because Renosterveld has highly fertile soil as a rule, much of the land is now under agriculture, especially wheat, so that in the Cape Floristic Region less than 2% of Renosterveld vegetation types are now formally conserved, despite being some of the most threatened types of vegetation in the world.”

The sun was out and it promised to be a beautiful day (temperatures reached 32C later in the day). Most of the road to Darling is gravel, which had been graded recently and thus a nice smooth ride.

My first target was the Tienie Versveld Wildflower Reserve, which is on the Yzerfontein road outside Darling. I had plans for lunch and would come back to Darling later. This road is awash with Arum Lily; I don’t think that I’ve seen quite so many in one place. The picture below was taken later in the day at Contreberg farm.

The Tienie Versveld Wildflower Reserve quite small, which one can easily miss, but the row of cars (two!) indicated something exceptional. Somewhat akin to whale spotting on the False Bay coast. I put Bowie on an extended leash, and we went for a walk. Dogs are allowed and thus a lot of sniffing occurred.

The plot of land that is now the Tienie Versveld Wildflower Reserve has not been ploughed, which changes the array of flowers and plants1. There’s evidence of cattle grazing, which can be beneficial if controlled.

There wasn’t much in terms of Namaqualand daisies, but a range of other flowers, many of which I have not seen anywhere else this year. Cape Stars, Sunspurges, Storksbills, Butterfly Lilies, Trailing Indigo and a single Butterfly Flower. Some of the plants were still in bud and I’m tempted to go back in about 2 weeks’ time.

It was a good thing that I had gotten there early, as it started getting busy by the time that I left. Most people stayed 10-15 minutes, some only 5 minutes. A quick photo for the ‘I was there’ post on social media.

One of my highlights in Darling is usually Evita se Perron, with its links to Pieter Dirk Uys and his 1990’s alter ego, Evita Bezuidenhout. This time, though, we visited a new spot: the Marmalade Cat Café. Who could resist such an enticing name? And the decor does invite you to enter.

There’s an indoor space, which looked nice enough, and a sunny outdoor courtyard that I preferred, in part as Bowie was allowed to walk around freely. Having looked at the menu, it took me a while to choose what I would have for lunch. Would it be crackling pork belly, fragrant lamb curry, traditional bobotie (they also have a vegan option)?

I selected the slow-cooked oxtail with mustard mash, which was excellent. I shared some of the oxtail with Bowie before he fell asleep. It had been a busy morning of socializing at the wildflower reserve and then also in the courtyard.

And while I was eating, a chat started with the table opposite, and then the next table and the next (as expected, these gesêlsies start with a comment about Bowie). At some point everyone in the courtyard was talking to another table. I find this so uniquely South African, not having had similar experiences in the UK, USA, Italy or Germany. Ons is mos unique; no DNA, just RSA.

I was tempted by the cake platter as a take-away, but they didn’t have the cakes that I would’ve liked to try, namely the pear tart, flourless orange, carrot & beetroot, chocolate nougat. As a compromise skelmpie, I got West Coast Snoek fish cakes with mash, and pecan pie to take home.

Going inside to pay, there were more Bowie admirers. And then I got talking to one of the organizers of the Darling Wildflower Show who advised me to go to the Contreberg farm where the rare Darling Ivory wild orchid was re-discovered in 20042.

“Contreberg is home to a private nature reserve that proudly preserves the rare and endangered Darling Ivory wild orchid (Pterygodium cruciferum), which is endemic to the region and pollinated by a unique Renosterveld oil-collecting bee. Blooming for only two weeks each year, it captivates flower enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.”

I’m keeping an eye open for posts of the Darling Ivory orchid in bloom.

We went for a short walk on the Contreberg farm, where I filmed the above video to show the expansive blooms of the Arum Lily. Walking back to the farm, I saw a ‘dead’ snake lying in the road, which I hadn’t noticed a few minutes earlier while walking out to the fields.

Later it occurred to me that the snake, which I identified as a skaapsteker, was probably ‘playing dead’ as I had not seen any visible damage or visible injuries. I still kept a safe distance! Some reading indicated that skaapstekers (Psammophylax rhombeatus) can perform thanatosis3—the defensive behaviour of playing dead—when threatened.

“The origin of the name Skaapsteker is another meaning for ‘sheep stabber’ or ‘sheep stinger.’ This is from the common misbelief that the Psammophylax rhombeatus was responsible for the death of large numbers of sheep. This was incorrect because the sheep deaths were caused by another snake, most likely the naja nivea, also known as the Cape cobra.”45

Before leaving Contreberg farm, I had a roosterkoek with curried mince, which was very lekker. The hostess, Miella, who had earlier given me further information on the Darling Ivory orchid, told me they have a tannie that always buys two of these roosterkoek; one for her, one for her dog. I’ll try that next time!

On Friday morning, the weather had turned and a thick fog covered the mountain. Bowie and I went for our morning walk and on the way back, Bowie sat down next to the fence of the next-door farm’s horse paddock. This could only mean one thing, namely that the horses were back. We hadn’t seen them since the shooting incident a few weeks ago.

The paddock is hidden behind some bushes and, as I walked closer, the two horses came trundling up the hill. I moved to a spot where it would be safer for Bowie and the horses to get closer to each other. We had a few ‘snuggle’ moments.

Saturday was dorp dag, grocery shopping. I gave one of the local farm workers a lift into town. Nomo, could only be from Zimbabwe. “It’s two weeks, I need to go shop for groceries.” They get paid every two weeks, not monthly. The taxi costs him R40, one-way.

The dorp [town] was busy. People scurrying everywhere, ignoring everyone else and the pedestrian crossings. I should avoid Saturdays, even early morning.

Afterwards, we went to the Org de Rac wine estate for a walk. A thick mist was lying over the farm. Town was sunny, about 10 km away. Phillip, the winemaker, was waiting for a tour group; 45 minutes and they’ll be on their way to the next destination. Everyone’s in a rush, even the old folks with time on their hands.

We walked past the sheep pen. Bowie stared at them, yelping for Dad to help. The sheep came closer. And then they ran away when they saw that Bowie was a dog. I have no role in this story, except to call Bowie. “This way,” pointing, and then mumbling something like “Do you need to poop?”

I’m trying to plan my activities for the rest of August and September, some of which is dependent on the state of the blommetjies up Kamieskroon or Nieuwoudtville way. There are flower shows in Piketberg, Hopefield and Darling. The Moorreesburg Landbouskou [agricultural show] is also soon, but I cannot take Bowie. Beginning of October there’s a flower show in Robertson which I may combine with a trip to Riversdale, possibly Oudtshoorn.

On our evening walk, another small snake, about 30 cm. Initially it also seemed to be playing dead, but the tongue flicked after a while. I’m not sure about the identification; it may be an Olive Snake (Lycodonomorphus inornatus).

Afterwards, I had a nice gesêlsie with C&A around a fire while the sun was setting. Bowie wanted to play with Toby, who had withdrawn to his mattress and was trying to ignore him. Bowie then went to play with the floating chemicals dispenser in the pool. Afterwards, Bowie wanted his ‘angry bird’ toy, which he subsequently disembowled.

Sunday, 16 August. It would’ve been Almuth’s birthday. Sitting on a comfy chair, smiling while knitting, a dog lying next to her. She would’ve adored Bowie.

She died too young.

For your calendar:

• Nieuwoudtville Flower Market: 3 Aug - 12 Sept 2026

• Piketberg Blomweek: 23 - 30 August 2026

• Voices in Bloom, NG Kerk Piketberg: 28 August 2026, 18:30

• Hopefield Fynbos Show takes place 27 - 30 August 2026; 09:00 - 17:00 (fury friends are welcome)

• Darling Wildflower Show: 18 - 26 September 2026

• Robertson Spring Show: 30 Sept - 3 Oct 2026; Flower Arranging: 2 October 2026

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I hadn't intended to visit Nieuwoudtville on this trip but had seen enough posts on social media to pique my interest. As we had time, I booked into the Hardeveld Lodge in Nuwerus for two nights and we drove a circular route to Nieuwoudtville. I hadn’t not previously been to Nieuwoudtville as a ‘tourist’.

On Saturday, we went for an early walk in the veld. It was still dark, though with a full moon. I was giving Bowie a backscratch when I mistakenly stepped on a paw. Bowie was not pleased with Pa and he remained dikbek [grumpy] until we were through Vanrhynsdorp, where he got some treats. He’ll lie on the backseat facing the door and won’t look at me while also far enough away that I cannot give him a cuddle while driving. We’ll be back to luvin’ mode when Bowie turns around and puts his face between the two front seats.

I was going to stop at the Bagdad Café, but they weren’t open yet, and we continued up the sweeping curves of the Vanrhynspas to Nieuwoudtville.

At the Nieuwoudtville information office, they were getting ready for the blommemark [flower market], which started 3 August. The local tourist office wasn’t open (a Saturday during flower season?) though a young man helping at the blommemark advised me to go to the Nieuwoudtville Wildflower Reserve. I could take Bowie, as long as he stayed on a leash.

There wasn’t much to see at the Nieuwoudtville Wildflower Reserve, except for yellow katstertjies and maartblomme, the latter flowering at the beginning of winter, usually March or April1. I spoke to another visitor about the lack of flowers and was told that the reserve was being poorly managed, with invasive grass species dominating the flowers. No grazers allowed here, the eco-warriors would get a hissy fit (I paraphrase)

I had seen two farms post extraordinary pictures on Facebook, namely Boereplaas guest farm and Lokenburg farm accommodation. I contacted both, dogs were allowed on a leash; it’s lambing season. The Lokenburg guest farm, which is about 40 km south of Nieuwoudtville, allows limited day visitors between 12 noon and 4 pm, by prior arrangement.

It was 10 am when I drove out of Nieuwoudtville along the Oorlogskloof pad. After 12 km, I saw the Matjiesfontein padstal and stopped there for a look around (I had time, the gravel road was in a good condition).

Outside, a fire was heating a big pot of boiling water, tended by OuNooi. Inside the kitchen, tannie Lana, irrepressible in her pink hat and jacket, was tasting a pot of afval [offal] with Jeanette. Add some vinegar… salt… I may even have heard them mention sugar.

As I walked around outside, some children were walking across the veld carrying firewood. “Kan ons vir meneer sing?” [Could they sing for me?], asked Jasmien, as she was joined by Jason. I filmed them singing, but unfortunately the audio quality is quite bad.

“Ek kom weer,” [I’ll come again] I said to Jeanette as I lifted Bowie into the car. “Ons wag vir meneer met ‘n glimlag!” [We’ll wait for you with a smile]

Boereplaas do have a 13 km blommeroete [flower route], which I’ll put on my list for next Spring.

Next time, I’ll remember to bring some cash; Matjiesfontein don’t have card-swiping facilities.

To get to the Lokenburg farm, I had another 15 km to go on the Oorlogskloof pad, and then another 9 km and two gates before I got to the main farmhouse. Nelmarié Nel had given me detailed instructions, including photographs, after I’d texted saying I was a bit rigtingbedonnerd [have a poor sense of direction].

Along the pad, before we even got to the farm, the fields were awash with blommetjies: yellow, ornage and white daisies, pink vygies, yellow katstertjies. Gorgeous!

Nelmarié met us at the farmhouse and then told me a little about the farm before loading Bowie and I onto a bakkie to drop us off at the start of a beautiful plaas walk. She does short, guided tours as well, but I wanted to breathe the veld aromas and give Bowie a bit of a run-around (Bowie was on a leash for the first and last parts of the walk due to the lambs).

Nelmarié is the seventh generation on the Lokenburg plaas, and she knows it inside out. There are 6,000 species of plants on the plaas, of which 9 species are red-listed. They have a conservation mindset, being “the first farm to register a Conservation Servitude with the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT)” to protect the Speckled Dwarf Tortoise (Chersobius signatus)23.

On the plaas, besides sheep, they also grow lavender from which they distil essential oils and ethnobotanicals4.

After our short bakkie trip, Bowie and I went for a 2-hour walk through an absolutely stunning landscape. Mainly yellow daisies spread across the horizon and then later an array of different plants, including some small succulents that I haven’t seen previously.

We didn’t drive the same road back to Nieuwoudtville, Nelmarié had suggested a different pad. A nice road that took in part of the Rooibos Heritage Route. A little ‘problematic’ were sheep blocking the road and refusing to move without some honking. Bowie stared at them though without much excitement. He was moeg, we’d had a long walk on a warm day (he did have some cooldowns in the streams we crossed on our Lokenburg walk).

Just after the Papkuilsfontein plaas turnoff, I picked up Ricardo on the Oorlogskloof pad. He works at Papkuilsfontein and was on his way to his wife in Nieuwoudtville; he gets off from Saturday afternoon until Monday morning. “As ek nie ‘n lift kry nie, dan stap ek.” [If I don’t get a ride, then I’ll walk.] About 20 km, “dit vat my so 3 tot 4 uure” [it takes me about 3 to 4 hours]. A matter-of-fact statement, it is what it is!

In Nieuwoudtville, I got some roosterkoek with boerewors for the road (I hadn’t eaten all day) and then slowly drove down the Vanrhyns pass.

The Bagdad Café was open this time, as indicated by the ou toppies [old couple] sitting outside the gate (read the story of Bagdad Café here). Another one of those quaint padstalle [farm stall] that has a sense of fun and nice pancakes, I’ve been told. I wanted a coffee, which came with appeltert en roomys on the side [apple tart and ice cream]. And a blommetjie, mustn’t forget that!

We had another 100 km until Nuwerus, which we reached before sunset. A short walk, supper, gesêlsie with Cobus and Hester and we retired to our room. I heard Bowie crunching bones; he’d been to the guests who were braai-ing. Skelm but clever!

On Sunday morning, we were on our way back to the cottage on Piket-Bo-Berg. A short stop at De Kleine Schuur and then mid-afternoon we were back on the berg, with Toby there to greet us.

Diese Reise war ein Treat. 
Die Blumen, 
die Landschaft, 
die Menschen. 
Unbeschreiblich mooi!

A Bowie en die Blommetjies road trip [part 1] [part 2] [part 3] [part 4]

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On Friday morning, we packed our belongings and went for a nice walk (not many cars on the Kamieskroon streets, but some unsavoury dogs in some yards) before heading to the Skilpad, which is part of the Namaqua National Park, and Die Murasie, a quaint little coffee shop at the entrance to the Skilpad.

As the Skilpad is a National Park, I would be able to enter with Bowie, but I was hoping to see some blommetjies along the way and get an update on the flowers in the Skilpad. The latter was starting to flower (31 July 2026), which is good news for August visitors.

We were a bit early for the Murasie, as they open at 9 am, and thus Bowie and I had a bit of a walk and then chatted with Jack, who’s the night watchman. He’s originally from Elsiesrivier in Cape Town and came to Kamieskroon as his wife, Marietta, is from there. He had to get used to the quiet of the platteland, he told me. He works one week on, one week off, returning to Kamieskroon on his ‘off’ days.

It wasn’t long before Suzette, the bubbly personality of Die Murasie1, showed up in her big bakkie. She remembered me from last year2, when I had visited the Skilpad a few weeks before Bowie came home with me.

I was there for the panomelet ontbyt [omelette breakfast], which consisted of eggs, minced meat, chopped bacon and onions. It came with mieliebrood [cornbread], cheese and jam, and was washed down with moerkoffie. The breakfast was as good as last year!

I was tempted to get the cheesecake or ‘lemon tart with meringue’ (not a lemon meringue, Suzette told me met meening).

No WiFi or card payment facilities. I could pay by EFT, an honesty system. You get a postcard with your receipt and payment details attached.

Before I left, Suzette showed me a thesis for the University of Stellenbosch: ’n Ondersoek na die Oorsprong en Betekenis van Plek- en Plaasname in die Landrosdistrik Namakwaland, deur Christian Rudolf Burger [An Investigation into the Origin and Meaning of Place and Farm Names in the Municipal District of Namaqualand]. I’ll need a few coffees and some cake while perusing this tome.

We couldn’t chat all day, there was still some pad ahead of us. On Wednesday evening I had gotten an update from Garies: there were blommetjies on the Kamiesberg pad to Leliefontein. To be honest, I was sceptical as I had a good idea where the photos had been taken. About 6 km out of Kamieskroon, opposite the Bo-Vlei plaas entrance. There’s a field there that’s always been awash with daisies on my previous blommetjies trips.

Not to worry, I still had a nice pad ahead of me. My intention was to drive take the road to Leliefontein and then Garies via Studer’s pass, with the day’s endpoint being Nuwerus.

Not much further on came the big treat, near Thys’e Kombuis (Ou Tuin), 1-12 km from Kamieskroon on the Leliefontein pad. Fields and fields of daisies, a nice surprise and oh so beautiful.

The pad took me past the Leliefontein turnoff. This region is, for me, a different type of beauty, the mooi that you need to look for, it’s subtle; it’s not for “I need green” types. Beautiful koppies [hills] dotted with small-farm kraals. Every-now-and-then, one sees goats or sheep, sometimes a shepherd tending his flock.

You may notice plastic bottles hanging off roadside fences. These are there a warning to drivers of a fence, especially at night when the plastic reflects a car’s headlights. Very useful, especially at cattle grids that often require a slight deviation.

Further on there’s a disjointed crossroad, where a left turn takes you back to the Boesmanland, while you turn right for the road to Garies via Studer’s pass. About 200 metres further on is the road to Garies via Karas.

The crossroads also had blommetjies, and further along the Studer’s pass road, up to the top of the pass, which I took to Garies. The flowers are different here, a mixture of different species.

I prefer these agter paai, the back roads that are quieter. Where I can stop and take Bowie for a short walk. Smell the perfumes of the veld, sweet and herbal, bathe in the sunshine.

Studer’s pass is a spectacular drop into Garies. The road levels out at one point and one thinks that’s the end of the pass, and then the next section starts.

A few kilometres before Garies, a young male is walking along the side of the road. I stop: “Waarnatoe is jy op pad?” [Where are you headed?] “Garies.” “Klim in!” [Get in]. He’s name is Masel. He started from Paulshoek in the morning, about 25 km. In 32C heat. No food, no water3. I gave him water and food, then dropped him off in Garies. He was on his way to his aunt in Springbok to look for work.

I had a coffee and gesêlsie with Sonja at Daisyland in Garies, while one of her granddaughters played with Bowie. Sonja told me that they’re hoping for some more rain. They don’t rely on weather apps but rather rely on a graaitjie [meerkat] sitting on a bush, having a look around, as an indicator of rain on its way.

Other signals of rain in this part of the world are ants moving out of their burrows and seeing tortoises, which get mobile and move uphill when rain is on its way.

Bowie was moeg gespeel [tired from playing] and insisted on sitting in front when we left Garies. It’s his recent way of getting some focussed attention from Pa. After a while, he goes to the back seat to stretch out there.

We were on our way to the Hardeveld Lodge in Nuwerus. It’s a comfortable and welcoming space for both Bowie and I.

Pa [dad] had a plan for Saturday. That’ll be part 5 of our Bowie en die Blommetjies road trip.

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On Thursday morning, after a walk through the backstreets of Kamieskroon, I dropped off the skaapkop [sheeps head] at the Kliphuis Kombuis. I had asked Christine, the chef, to prepare it for me1^,2, and her husband, Sars, to coach me on how Namaqualanders eat it. I would be back at 5 pm for dinner.

After fuelling and getting new shoelaces at Agrimark (Bowie had gotten hold of my shoes), we drove north on the N7 to the Hondeklipbaai turnoff, which is a few kilometres south of Springbok.

The day's plan was to drive the Messelpad3 and Wildeperdehoek4 passes, which are essentially one long mountain pass. I had driven this route twice previously and, unless it’s wet or the road has major washaways after the winter rains, it is driveable in a car with high ground clearance. It's a bit scary in places, nothing worse than the Swartberg pass, and well worth it.

This road was built as part of the railway line to transport copper from Springbok to Hondeklipbaai. My first introduction was in the ‘Land of the Thirst Kings’ book, which is now unfortunately out of print.

From Kamieskroon, one initially drives north on the N7 and the turnoff to Hondeklipbaai road is about 15 km before Springbok. On the first section of this road, you’ll see quiver trees and the first Spring flowers. This road always seems to be corrugated [sinkplaat], so remove any loose teeth and take it slow.

The Wildeperdehoek pass is about 25 km long, according to the signs on the road. It is spectacular and, in some years, has vast vistas of Namaqualand daisies5^,6^,7 . This year the daisies were kol kol f*khol, with other flowers hidden amongst the rocks and bushes.

For me, it's one of the nicest passes in South Africa that I've had the privilege to drive.

On this trip, there was a different highlight, namely Die Ou Tronk [The old jail]. I had looked for it on my previous trips, having seen it indicated on maps and referred to in ‘The Land of the Thirst Kings’, but to no avail8. However, Linda from Soebatsfontein Lodge, who I had met at De Kleine Schuur on Monday, had explained how to find it. It's not visible from the road, unless you come from the Soebatsfontein side, she had told me. There’s a small parking spot and then it’s about 300 metres down the mountain towards the river.

Driving from the Springbok side, I kept stopping and looking back. Eventually I found the right ‘parking spot’, which had tire tracks running down towards the river. I walk down the track and then I saw it: Die Ou Tronk.

It’s hidden behind a rocky outcrop, if one comes from the Springbok side. From the N7 turnoff onto the Hondeklipbaai road, it’s 32 km according to my car’s odometer.

My favourite spot on the pass, which I refer to as the Shepherd’s Hut, had no flowers this year; last year, it was spectacular. There’s a short video from last year on this link.

Somewhat further, and one starts a steep descent onto the Soebatsfontein vlakte [plain]. As I have a fear of heights, I find part of the pass quite scary. However, driving in low gear and looking ahead for oncoming traffic (and stopping at a decent passing point), this ‘drop’ wasn’t too bad on this trip.

The Soebatsfontein vlakte was nowhere near as spectacular as last year (see footnotes for previous Substacks, photos and videos)

Having previously had a short chat with Linda and Ray from Soebatsfontein Lodge, I stopped there for a short koffie en gesêlsie [coffee and chat]. They know this area and have many a travel anecdote and suggestions. “Was jy al by Riethuis?” [Have you been to Riethuis?]

I’d never heard of Riethuis and, since it was only 18 km from Soebatsfontein and I had some spare time, we went to have a look. It’s one of those roads where one can quickly second-guess whether you’re heading in the right direction (I’m a bit rigtingbedonnerd), but Ray’s instructions were spot on.

Riethuis [directly translated ‘reed house’] is an abandoned farm with four buildings: three houses and a small waenhuis [garage / barn]. Two of the houses have watermarks on the walls and dried mud on the floors, which seem to indicate a huge (flash) flood at some time. The water came to a height of about one meter, with the river quite a distance away; it must have been a huge and terrifying amount of water. Was this the breaking point for the farm occupiers?

In the barn, there are the remains of a donkey-driven grain mill. Outside, there a wood-burning oven, which can often be found on old farms in Namaqualand. While I was walking around, an owl flew out of one the houses; possibly a desert barn owl.

After the rather sad ‘treat’ of Rietfontein, I drove back to Soebatsfontein and then Kamieskroon, where we had a dinner date at the Kliphuis Kombuis. “My ouma het in die Kliphuis gewoon, en ons het nou ‘n stuk aangebou vir die restaurant” [My grandmother used to live in the Kliphuis, and we’ve now added an extension for the restaurant], Christine explained.

It was time to face my apprehension and tackle the skaapkop [sheep’s head] that had been prepared for me. Christine explained that she had used a salt and pepper dry rub and baked the skaapkop - Hy’s maar klein! [It’s quite small!] - for 20 minutes at 120C and then 180C for another hour, the latter to crisp it up.

Her husband, Sars, explained how the skaapkop is eaten in Namaqualand. You don’t touch the nose or areas around it; these parts have not been thoroughly cleaned. Staring on the outside, you eat the cheeks, crispy skin and the eyes. I had to swallow somewhat before eating the first eye! It was actually quite nice and the second eye soon followed. These parts of the skaapkop are very fatty and ‘rich’, which was balanced by the roosterkoek en tuisgemaakte vyekonfyt [roosterkoek and homemade fig jam] that was provided on the side.

Once the outside of the skull had been cleaned, the tongue is next. This requires one to pull apart the jaws and pull out the tongue using a fork. I quite like tongue; we used to have it for Sunday dinner at home. I sliced this and also had it on the bread, though without the jam.

The last part are the harsings [brain], which is a bit more challenging. The skull has to first be prised open with a knife. This took a few minutes but wasn’t difficult. The brain is quite soft and is easily spread onto bread. I wasn’t keen at first, as I don’t particularly like a jelly-like texture and my scientific brain was ringing ‘scrapie’ alerts! However, it was quite nice, with the taste and texture reminding me of fish roe.

Bowie also got some titbits that he seemed to enjoy, after some initial apprehension. The bones were crushed in no time!

Would I eat a skaapkop again? Definitely, though maybe with something to cut through the richness a bit. A nice white wine, maybe, with mashed potatoes and braised red cabbage (Rotkohl). Even roosterkoek, if it’s available in the dorp. Also, I would share the skaapkop with someone, it was too much for me (Bowie had a nice treat at home). Lekker bly net lekker!

In part 4: Die Murasie, the Leliefontein pad, Garies, Nuwerus and Nieuwoudtville.

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Wednesday started with a nice breakfast, mielie pap and chicken livers (by special request) at the Hardeveld Lodge in Nuwerus; Bowie also got a bowl, part of which we took on the road with us, and he polished it off in Kamieskroon. After a walk, Bowie and I were on the way towards Garies and ultimately Kamieskroon.

In the car’s boot was a skaapkop [sheep’s head], which I was going to deliver to the Kliphuis Kombuis in Kamieskroon, where they would prepare it for me on Thusrday (more on that later).

I started seeing spring flowers along the N7 after Bitterfontein, heading north. Before Garies, I took the pad to Groenrivier for a circular detour to Garies. This was the same road that I took last year (2025) for my first blommetjies road trip with Bowie. This year there were patches of mooi, though not nearly as spectacular as last year. The farm dams had water, there were good rains in May 2026, but the riverbeds were dry.

In Garies, we usually stop at the Daisyland Padstal for a treat and an update from Sonja on the best places to see the blommetjies. It not been a good year for the blommetjies in Namaqualand. They're hoping for some more rain and a second burst of the flowers; the vygies have not flowered yet in the Garies region this year.

Sonja had had an update that morning that the flowers were looking good near Sarrisam. I’ve not been on that stretch of road previously, though I recognize the name from the Gert Sarrisam books. We could drive a circular route to Kamieskroon via Wallekraal, where Gert Sarrisam went to school.

After a piece of freshly baked melktert [milk tart] and a refuel, we were on the road again.

The suggested route took us about 10 km north of Garies to the Hondeklipbaai road and then we turned left at the Baievlei plaas1. Here started the new pad, in terms of our travels.

The blommetjies were spectacular from the Sandkraal farm to Soutfontein and Sarrisam. The best views I was to see all day!

I stopped at Sandkraal for a walk-around, a little aware of the nearby plaashuis and expecting a bakkie to drive my way at any time. I was overthinking the situation as most farmers are open to nature-lovers enjoying the flowers. Also, it was getting towards noon, and it was hot outside; somewhere around 30C, possibly higher later in the day.

A bit further along was the Soutfontein guest farm, with its interesting old buildings. Unfortunately, these were behind closed gate and I didn’t explore further.

Our next stop was at the Sarrisam plaas, where there is a small farm museum. The door was locked, and I didn’t want to disturb the farmer, as it was around lunch time. I had a bit of a look around and then took the road to Wallekraal.

The road from Sarrisam to Wallekraal was a two-track with lots of sinkplaat [corrugations] and thick sand in places. It’s not a road I would recommend and at one point I was wondering whether I was actually op die regte pad [on the right road]. On the plus side, there were nice gazania and other flowers along the road.

Lots of gates, Sonja had said. I was to open and close 12 gates that day, the last one near Wallekraal. Not quite the 20 gates on a drive from Pedroskloof to Gamoep with Junior and Heavy a few years ago. This time, though, I was on my own - could I train Bowie to open and close plaas gates for me? How about some plaashek art?

I stopped at Wallekraal to walk through the murasies [ruins] and cemetery. I leant about Wallekraal through the books written by Gert Sarrisam. He grew up in this region and attended boarding school at Wallekraal.

The cemetery made me sad. Headstones, but no names.

We had a bit of an incident at the old house, where I got stung on the head and arms by some bees. Bowie made a quick escape to the car, clever dog!

It was around 14:30 that we took the road to Kamieskroon, where I wanted to drop off the skaapkop. “Ek gaan so 4 uur huis toe, ons het nie besprekings vir vanaand nie” [I’m going home around 4, we don’t have any reservations for tonight], Christine at the Kliphuis Kombuis had WhatsApp’d me earlier. By the time that I got to Kamieskroon, the KlipHuis Kombuis had already closed, which wasn’t a problem as she would be open at 8 am the next day.

I checked into Isabella@cosycottage and then had an early dinner at the Namib Padstal. Kerrie afval with stampmielies; Bowie got lewerkoekies. The local woef, Boesman, came for a cuddle while Bowie played with some of his toys.

Back at our cottage, Bowie fell off the bed and was upset with me for the next few hours, lying on the living room carpet. It was quite late when he requested a lift onto the bed, this time making sure that he occupied the middle section of the bed while I spent the night ‘on the edge’.

My plan for Thursday (part 3) was to drive the Wildeperdehoekpas and then see how the day pans out.

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A few weeks ago, sometime in June, I had booked accommodation in Kamieskroon and Nuwerus for a Namaqualand blommetjies trip. Last week, I added a night at the newly opened Biedouw padstal accommodation, having seen a post on Facebook.

It was 24ºC on Sunday, with an ooswind [easterly] blowing, which means the veld will dry out. Not great for the Namaqualand daisies, but we’ll enjoy the scenery and people whatever. On Monday, 27 July 2027, we were on the road to Clanwilliam and the Biedouw Valley. Around Citrusdal, the citrus trees were heavy with fruit, and the harvest was in full flow.

Bowie and I had our, by now obligatory, stop at De Kleine Schuur padstal where I had a freshly baked muffin and Bowie got his usual chicken. I also met the owners of the Soebatsfontein Lodge, who told me that the Wildeperdehoek pass is driveable and they would update me on the flowers on that side. Linda, of Soebatsfontein Lodge, reminded me that the last three years were exceptional in terms of the Namaqualand flowers. The best in 50 years, some people claim.

After fuelling up in Clanwilliam, we drove over the beautiful Pakhuys pass. I stopped for a leg stretcher before we got to the Hoek se Berg pass, near a spot where we had seen flowers last year on a visit with Ouma Astrid and B.E. Down below was the Traveller’s Rest valley and the gravel road to Calvinia. Maybe another day?

Not much further on is the short, but steep, Hoek se Berg pass which drops into the Biedow Valley. I stopped at the top of the berg and then again at the bottom of the pass for a walk amongst the flowers. It was a watercolour painting of yellow, white and orange - breathtakingly beautiful!1

As far as possible, it’s important to stay on roads and footpaths so as not to disturb the plants. However, do get out of your car to see the myriads of other flowering plants amongst the daisies. And breathe in the sweet nectar of the veld. Insect repellent is advised (after you’ve smelt the daisies).

After a nice walk, I drove down the ‘Enjo farm’ road to find our accommodation for the night. We were staying at the Biedow Boerbokstoet plaas (is that one word?). Bed and breakfast, with evening dinner arranged after our arrival.

We were a bit early and, after a nice plaas gesêlsie with our hosts Eleen and Joubert, I was advised to drive beyond Enjo farm to see more flowers. That side of the valley had 15 mm of rain recently, this side only 4 mm.2

Two farm gates and a few kilometres later, a different veld. Blue flowers (blousporries?) danced in the wind and there were more white daisies. Even the yellow flowers were different, smaller. We encountered a few cars along the road, each stopping for a gesêlsie. Plaas gates, goats, sheep, flowers, wonderful scenery, blue skies and mooi mênse - what more could one ask for? I nearly forgot to mention Bowie!

Back at our flat, Bowie had a play with the farm dogs. Four of them: two collies, an Australian kelpy / border collie crossbreed and a small terrier. While Bowie had a nice runaround, one of the collies came for a cuddle. The submissive one, I noticed.

Dinner was a nice plate of plaaskos, which I had been looking forward to and really enjoyed. Eleen told me that they usually braai on Sundays and keep some of the tjops and wors3 for Monday. Joubert joined me for dinner, and we had a lekker gesêlsie.

Outside, the wind was picking up; it would be blowing a gale by morning. “Alles is vroeg hierdie jaar. Eers die reën, nou die Augustus wind. Hy maak alles deurmekaar en dor die veld uit.” [Everything is early this year. First the rain, now the August wind. It messes everything up and dries out the veld]. It was a matter-of-fact statement, not a moan, and was followed by “In die Ooskaap kry hulle nou reën, en daaroor is ek bly.” [In the Eastern Cape they’re getting rain now, and I’m pleased about that].

Amongst other topics, Joubert mentioned teaching part-time at Augsburg school in Clanwilliam for the last 20 or so years. He runs a boerbokstoet [goat stud], which I’d like to visit some other time to learn more about that side of the farm. Eleen was floating in the background, joining the conversation every now-and-then. I only realised later, embarrassingly, that I had probably had her Monday dinner!

Bowie was restless and wouldn't settle down during dinner. As soon as we got back to the flat, though, he was quickly asleep.

After a nice koffie in die kombuis [coffee in the kitchen] and gesêlsie with Eleen and Joubert, we left the Biedow Valley on Tuesday morning. It had been my intention to drive the back roads to Trawal, taking the Elizabethfontein gravel road. However, Joubert had told me that the old iron bridge across the Olifants River, which I have driven before, was washed away in the floods. Thus, a circular route of about 50 km to Clanwilliam before getting onto the N7 north was advised.

A beautifully scenic road along the Doringrivier, with scattered citrus orchards and the proverbial cabbage patch every now-and-then, the latter irrigated. At the top of the mountain, I found a place to stop, and we had a short walk. No daisy vistas, though another unique set of flowers and a nice view into the valley we had just driven.

On the Clanwilliam side of the mountain were fields of rooibos and sheep farms with plenty of lambs. Further down, next to the Olifants river, there were citrus orchards and vineyards, mostly under netting.4 In Clanwilliam I had wanted to stop at the House of Rooibos to try B.E.'s rooibos-infused pudding. Alas, no dogs allowed!

The N7 was surprisingly quiet, and it was a relaxed drive all the way to Nuwerus. Along this stretch of road there was little in terms of flowers, with the veld looking quite dry even though the dams that I saw had water.

As always, we stayed at the Hardeveld Lodge in Nuwerus. It's always nice catching up with C&H at the Lodge, and Bowie is comfortable there. He's a bit naughty, always finding and chewing a doorstop. The dorp was pretty with flowers and I took Bowie for a walk in the veld, though not the dorp. I wasn't in the mood for talking to people.

After a nice boerekos dinner, we settled in for the night. The southeasterly wind had settled down, which was good news. That ‘ooswind’ dries the veld and the daisies fade away.

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It’s been a strange week here at the cottage.

My gas geyser hadn’t been working, which was initially due to an empty gas bottle, which I replaced. Still, nothing, just click, click, click. I googled. It may be air in the gas pipeline. The instructions were to open and close the gas tap multiple times. Still, nothing.

I spent a few days boiling water for washing, laundry, dishes. A minor inconvenience, no big deal

Once my neighbours had come back from a trip up north, I asked A.S. to come have a look. Maybe I was missing something obvious? He went off and googled. He disconnected the gas pipe, let some gas run though, reconnected. The geyser now works. It was something obvious.

Then I had a #FirstWorldProblem. My phone would get stuck in an advertisement loop. Initially it was only for a few minutes, but then it was constant. Fortunately, the newly opened Piquetberg Mall has a phone shop. The phone had to be wiped, which meant re-installing all my apps. My banking app wouldn’t load properly, which required another visit to the dorp. It could wait - I left it until Saturday.

I found a pet shop in the mall, which was convenient as Bowie needed a new collar. Conveniently located so that I could take Bowie into the shop for a fitting. The little skelm promptly found a blanket to play with, which is now a new toy.

On Friday, we drove to Paternoster, where we were meeting the Snyman’s from Fish Hoek. They were glamping at Trekoskraal and we met at the Afsaal Padstal nearby. The padstal is a little way off the tar road and I hadn’t yet had a reason to visit. This was a good opportunity; I liked the online reviews.

The Afsaal Padstal is about 4.5 km gravel road of the road between Vredenburg and Paternoster and well worth the detour if you’ve got time.

The menu is not grand, as it’s printed sheets of paper, but the food and choices are exceptional for a padstal. There’s a friendly ouma [grandmother] and staff, and a slightly grumpy wire-haired terrier (it growled at Bowie a few times but was generally good natured).

As you sit on the stoep, you can see the Atlantic Ocean a kilometres away. A beach is within driving distance, though that will have to wait until our next visit.

Before I forget, the Afsaal Padstal is pet friendly and relatively safe with an enclosed garden and very little traffic on the road on the other side of the fence. Bowie thoroughly enjoyed his run-around.

I thoroughly enjoyed my meal, though found it a little difficult making a decision. I finally ordered on an omelette, from a choice of waffles, pancakes or bread. From a choice of six fillings, I went for the Camembert, green figs and bacon, the latter extra crispy.

The food is freshly prepared and takes a little longer, but well worth the wait. As a small padstal, the food and service were definitely near the top of my list.

Paternoster is about 15 km down the road. There we went for a walk on the beach before having drinks at the Koekamakranka coffee shop at the Waterfront, sharing a piece of peppermint crisp tart.

I just love the photo belowof the twee blommetjies tussen die blomme. I know K.S. since 1974, when they were neighbours and then we also together at school for two years. J.S., who I know since about 1984 when he was an architecture student and would often visit L.F., a classmate and the brother of K.S.

A long time and still easy!

On the road home, Bowie was too cute. He sat between the front seats for a while wanting snuggles from Pa and then he lay down so that I could give him a back scratch while he fell asleep. He loves meeting old friends and visiting new places but is quite moeg [tired] by the end of the day. When we got back to the cottage, Bowie and I went for a short walk and then he fell asleep on the floor before later jumping onto the bed.

On Saturday morning, we drove to Piketberg to get Bowie a new harness and some treats. He’d chewed the clasp on his recently bought harness (I left it within easy reach in the car). Also, I wanted to get some treats for him as we’ll be on a road trip to the Namaqualand blommetjies next week.

Afterwards, we went for a nice walk and lunch at the Org de Rac wine estate, where they had an open day. I had considered going to the Piket-Bo-Berg farmers market, it was the last Saturday in July. I had seen plenty of cars driving up the Versfeld Pass, i.e. visitors, and wanted to take Bowie for a walk after the dorp.

It could’ve been Spring, it was such a beautiful day.

Sunday will see the end of the Tour de France 2026, one of the greatest annual sporting events in my view.

We’re off to the Biedow Valley and Namaqualand tomorrow. Lekker, né!

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The last few days we’ve been looking after Toby and the buchu seedlings. The latter are still developing and require watering once a day. They should be ready for planting out in the field sometime in September, when the weather will get warmer. That said, it’s mid-winter and quite warm already; I’m sitting here with a t-shirt on, at 10 am, having taken off my jersey.

Toby spends most of the day either in his hut, which has got a heater to keep him warm, or lying in the sunshine, though it’s about 11 am before the sun appears above the koppie [hill]. Toby will play with Bowie for a while and comes along on short walks. He also gets a few treats, though I have to be careful with the dogs, they’re not keen on sharing food.

On Thursday, I was filling up Toby’s food bowl when Bowie got a little aggressive. Nothing happened, but Bowie got a 5-minute timeout in the cottage. No problems on Friday, Bowie lay on the stairs and waited for me to finish with Toby’s food. Bowie’s a quick learner.

I take Toby along on short ‘constitutional’ walks, where I’ve noticed that Bowie has a softer approach when they’re playing, also leaving Toby alone for long stretches.

While watering the buchu seedlings, Bowie has to stay outside the netting. He’s now discovered moles, having retrieved one earlier in the week. On Saturday, Bowie started digging while I was watering, with Toby watching. After all that exercise, Bowie was moeg [tired] and had a lekker snooze afterwards.

Last week Friday was dorp [town] day for groceries shopping. Afterwards, we went to the Org de Rac wine estate for a nice walk through the vineyard and citrus orchard. There were still a few naartjies on the trees after harvesting; I had one or two.

Walking back through the vineyards, Bowie ran ahead of me as he had seen some people amongst the vines. Stubbornly, he wouldn’t listen, and he unfortunately frightened some of the workers as they couldn’t see me. Where did this strange dog come from?

They were cleaning the vines, basically cutting back all the new growth. Later in the year, they will come back to prune the vines to improve the grape yield, Sherol-Ann told me.

I had a nice roosterkoek burger for lunch, while Bowie kept himself busy with one of the farm cats.

On Saturday, we had a day excursion to see the flowers in the Biedouw Valley, which I have written up here. A wonderful day with lots of blommetjies [flowers], sunshine and mooi mênse [beautiful people]. B.E. had packed us a lekker picnic, which we couldn’t quite finish!

We also visited Wuppertal, saw some donkeys and stopped for tea and scones at the Mertenhof plaas.

The next few days we spent at the cottage. I was quite tired after Saturday’s outing while also doing some reading on Covid vaccinations (to update myself), Genadendal and District 6.

I’m also busy doing an online Youth Mental Health First Aid course. I have done a similar course in the UK a while back and found it quite useful. The jury is still out on the current course, it seems a little superficial to me.

On Friday, we had another gatskuur [excursion]. This time, we drove to St Helena Bay on the WesKus [west coast], which I may have visited once, a very long time ago. Driving over the Versfeld Pass it was quite sunny, but there was a thick fog waiting for us below.

That fog followed us all the way to Velddrif, St Helena Bay and Brittania Bay. We went for a nice walk on the beach at Brittania Bay and then stopped at St Helena Bay harbour to get some fish & chips.

Outside the shop, I met Michael ‘dieselfde ek’ [the same me]. I’m sure he’s got some stories to tell of a hard life as a fisherman. It was lunch time, cold and it was too busy around the shop. I got him a fish & chip parcel, and we went our separate ways.

I didn’t really get a nice vibe, which was partly due to the fog but also the crush of upmarket housing estates and big cars. A four-lane main road. I only know of two other seaside towns that are similar: Langebaan and Hermanus. Ek moet seker niks verder sê nie [I won’t say more].

We took the road back to Piketberg, stopping off at Bokkomlaan in Velddrif. There I got some frozen snoek and kerrie vis [curried fish], as well as having a nice coffee break.

On Saturday, I pan-fried some snoek and baked a mielie bread for lunch. Te lekker! A bit naughty, that bread was gone by end-of-day.

Sunday morning. I’ve still got some kerrie vis, which I’ll have for lunch. Bowie and I went for a nice walk on a cloudy, cool morning and then I watered the buchu seedlings. Toby was still in his hut, next to the heater. He’s waiting for his Pa en Ma, they’re due back later today.

Bowie’s back on the bed. It won’t be long before he’s fast asleep. I’ll join him for a nap later, but first I have to go water the Buchu seedlings.

It’s a big day at the Tour de France - the elevation profile looks scary difficult!

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It was an earlyish start, as we were picked up F.M. on the Bo-Berg before driving up to Clanwilliam to meet B.E., R.B. and the teenagers L&A, who are all family of Ouma Astrid. Along the way, we had a quick stop at De Kleine Schuur to say Hello to the tannies and for a short toilet break. We got to the Velskoendraai in Clanwilliam a few minutes late, the ladies were already waiting. No N.E., unfortunately, he’s got the man flu!

We fuelled up and then drove up the beautiful Pakhuis Pass, with a short stop at auntie Jo’s, where Bowie met a new horse friend and we had a short look around.

The sun was rising, it was nearly 10:30 and the blommetjies would be starting to open. We had a few more kilometres to go before getting to the gravel road and then down the Hoek se Berg pass that opens up the beautiful vista of the Biedauw Valley below. The name of the valley ‘comes from the Khoekhoen word “bie” or “wie,” referring to the poisonous milkbush (Euphorbia mauritanica) that grows abundantly in the area’.

We stopped about halfway down the pass for some breakfast, with B.E. having catered for half the dorp: cheesepuffs, sandwiches, dates and juice. We then had a stroll amongst the blommetjies, trying to stay on footpaths, breathing the aromatic perfumes of the veld.

Bowie enjoyed the new environment and extra attention he was getting (we were here last year with him, when he was hardly two months old).

A shout-out to the two teenagers, who looked after Bowie and showed an interest in all the stories and anecdotes that I told them. Very patient with the old man!

Further down the pass, I made a naughty detour to buy some vetkoek and roosterkoek. Lizaan, Marco and their children are from Wuppertal and it’s the first time they are trying a roadside stall. Lizaan is collecting funds to open a kitchen in Wuppertal. Support local!

On the road to Wuppertal, we saw an amazing hut down in the valley. No.11 nogals! That would be a nice play to escape. Nearby, three beautiful donkeys. Bowie was quite keen to go see the donkeys, but the road was too busy for my liking (and he might elope with one of them).

Wuppertal ‘has been a Moravian mission station since 1865’. The name is derived from the town in Germany from where two missionaries, Theobald von Wurmb and Johan Gottlieb Leipoldt (grandfather of the writer C. Louis Leipoldt) came in 1829. You can read more about the Moravian missionaries and the town of Genadendal here.

Is it spelt Wuppertal or Wupperthal - that depends on your source of information or road sign.

On 31 December 2018 a wildfire swept through the village and surrounding area destroying a majority of the buildings in the town, including down 53 homes, a community hall, clinic, a restaurant, the historic Moravian Mission Station and the archive, leaving only the town’s church and a few other buildings remaining. Signs of the fire can still be seen on the palm trees and in some houses.

After buying some drinks and sweets at Woeka se Winkel, we took a stroll around the dorp. We had a look at the school, which currently has about 100 scholars, some of whom live in the koshuis [dormitory] during the week and then go home at weekends.

The famous Wuppertal shoe factory was open, though only small sizes were available. They don’t have a website, but shoes can be ordered via WhatsApp. They have only one copy of the 15-year memorial magazine, everything else was destroyed in the fire.

Then we walked through the cemetery, where many of the graves are unmarked, and around the church and back to our cars. Our final stop was at Leipoldt House, which is being restored by Francois and his wife Elmerentia. They have kept the fireplace as it looked after the 2018 fire.

In my view, Wuppertal has a lot of potential as a tourist attraction but needs work.

On the drive back from Wuppertal, we met Hershelle and his donkeys; they had stopped next to the road to chat with friends. Hershelle lives “oor die berg” [on the other side of the mountain] where he has sheep and goats. These are currently higher up the mountain at the winter pastures, which are very dry. He’ll bring them down later in the year for their summer grazing.

Driving into the Biedauw Valley, we got a different view of the blommetjies, which were now pointing west.

We weren’t done yet, as we still had a visit at the Mertenhof plaas1 [farm] on our day’s agenda. Another treat!

The Lubbe family have lived in the Biedauw Valley for 7 generations already, with their son to follow soon as the eighth generation. Of these, 5 generations have lived on the Meerhof plaas over the last 200 years.

The Lubbe’s sold the ground to the missionaries of the now Moravian Church and were thus in the Biedauw Valley before the establishment of Wuppertal and the Mission Station.

The vine on the stoep was planted when the current house was built, i.e. 20 years ago, and it still carries grapes.

While B.E. and R.B. had a natter inside with B&M (hulle ken die mense), the youngsters, F.V. and I went for a walk around the werf [farmyard].

When we got back, there were nice scones on the table, as well as tea and coffee. The house is a treasure trove! They were offered R300,000 for an old double-bed by an antiques dealer a few years ago. Offer declined.

They are also the oldest farm to provide meteorological data, since 1898, to the Weather Service. The old kitchen is a treasure trove of old gadgets. including a candle lantern and mielie stripper.

Barry explained the kitchen ceiling to me, which is found in many an old farmhouse. The bottom layer consists of thick reeds, which provide support. This was then covered by thinner reeds on top of which there would be a thick layer of clay, about 30 centimetres. In case of a fire in the kitchen, the reeds might start burning and then the layer of clay would fall down “en dit het toe die vuur geblus” [which then put out the fire].

We were also shown an old post bag, which had two addresses on it: the farm and Clanwilliam post office. The bag was locked during transport, with only the farmer and postmaster having keys.

Quite some history!

After leaving the farm, we stopped at Traveller’s Rest to have dinner before driving our separate paths home. I had a lekker venison pie with vegetables and rice, no poeding. The rugby was on, but we ignored that - there were enough Saturday afternoon coaches in the room.

On Sunday morning, Bowie and I woke up after 7 am, which is late for us. We were both a bit moeg, that serene tired that one has after a nice outing with mooi mênse.

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Following the advice given to me by Sonja at Daisyland in Garies, I took the road to Okiep and Concordia. About halfway between these towns, they’re approximately 15 km apart, I probably saw the nicest blommetjies vista next to the road. I realized that I had driven past an open gate and turned around. No private property or other signs, I parked the car, and Bowie and I went for a walk through the daisies. Ja, and a windpomp [windmill], a scene to paint.

My map showed a gravel road linking Concordia to the N14 and I drove straight through the town and kept going when I saw a road sign with faint lettering: Goodhouse, Pofadder. Pofadder sound about right, I’d not heard of Goodhouse previously. I should’ve looked at my paper map, but I didn’t.

The road was quite sinkplaat [corrugated] for a while, which I thought indicated that the road was well used. Also, whilst I thought we were heading east towards Pofadder, the road was actually heading north. Yes, I’m a bit rigting bedonnerd1 and I did not get out my sticks to check shadows and compass headings.

“Hoe moet jy nou weet waarnatoe ‘n pad gaan as jy hom nie gery het nie?” [How are you supposed to know where a road goes if you haven’t driven it?]

Anyway, it was quite an adventure! I liked the ‘feel’ of the place, it reminded me of the Namib Desert and trips with Junior and BIL. I stopped a few times to walk through the veld, which looked quite dry though there were a few pools of water in places.

I saw a few murasies, old long-forgotten buildings, but didn’t stop as they were behind fences and closed gates. Farm etiquette: don’t open gates unless you are on a public road or have permission, and don’t climb over a fence.

At one point, a mongoose ran across the road, with a rodent in its mouth. I stopped and watched for a while. These are the times that I would like to have my SLR camera and long lens with me, but leave it at home these days, unless I’m visiting a game reserve or bird watching.

At last, an old shepherd’s hut and an open gate. Time for a walk, breathe the air, feel the sun.

Bowie wanted to stay, seemingly enjoying this Namaqualand vibe. By this time, I was sure that we’d missed a turn-off to get back to the N14. However, I thought that we should get a turn-off to Steinkopf soon. This would get us back onto the N7 which we could take back to Kammieskroon.

Driving on, the landscape changed and it looked like the Orange River was in the distance; a bit like the road north on the N7 to Vioolsdrift. I stopped and turned. It was better to take the long drive back to Concordia and maybe do the complete trip to Goodhouse on another occasion.

Our detour was 90 km, the best part of the day. Apart from the cars and motorbike, I recall seeing one shepherd along the road, watching his sheep.

Driving back through Concordia and Okiep, I then drove to Nababeep. Another mining town, nothing much to see here either, except possibly for the museum though I think this has closed.

Driving back to Kammieskroon, I took a few back roads, but there was little in terms of blommetjies.

We got back to Kamieskroon at 3 pm and, as I hadn’t eaten anything all day2, we walked to the Namib Padstal for our second treat there. The Mamba Duo: Lewerwors met twee lewerkoekies en kapokaartappels [liver sausage with liver cakes and mashed potatoes]. Ja, kapokaartappels are mashed potatoes; one learns something new every day. Very lekker, I shared the lewerkoekies and lewerwors with Bowie before he had a nice play with Boesman, who had ignored Bowie while we were eating. I also had a piece of melktert [milktart], which rounded off a nice day.

After a nice chat with Tinkie, the chef, and her mother, Bowie and I walked back to our cottage.

On Monday morning, we had to take the road south as I needed to be back at the cottage in Piket-Bo-Berg by evening. I was caught between taking a detour from Garies to Kotzesrus or viewing the Letterklip in Garies. I opted for the Letterklip, as we had a long road ahead of us and we were a bit early for breakfast in Garies.

The Letterklip [directly translated: Letter Stone] was used by early travellers to leave messages for other travellers and was used as a fortress for British soldiers during the Anglo-Boer War (1901–1902). It is also a beautiful and interesting rock formation, which makes it worth visiting in itself.

To get to the Letterklip, you drive north along the Garies main road (not the N7) until just outside the dorp, then it’s through two gates to get to the top of the mountain. If you’re not sure, then ask at Daisyland.

Driving out of the second gate after leaving the Letterklip, I greeted a farmer loading his bakkie. He beckoned me over. “Ken ek vir jou?” [Do I know you?] “Nee, ek groet maar net vir mênse” [No, I always greet people]. And we got talking, as one does in this neck of the woods. Turns out that Thys is a cousin of A.S., my neighbour. Small world!

After a nice omelette breakfast in Garies, Bowie and I were on the road again. Monday morning, the N7 was busier. Driving south, there were a lot of flowers to be seen between Klawer and Citrusdal3. We stopped at De Kleine Schuur for a short break and to get some naartjies and oranges.

We got back to Piket-Bo-Berg late afternoon and had a nice catch-up with C&A and Toby.

After a ‘constitutional’ walk, Bowie was fast asleep, it had been a long pad. Rodd trips are just lekker different with Bowie.

Total distance travelled: 1,235 km

Final thoughts:

The flowers are exceptionally early in Namaqualand this year, which may be due to the mild and dry winter. A commentary on Facebook4 is pertinent:

“Die winter het met goeie reën begin, maar daarna het daar feitlik geen verdere neerslag voorgekom nie. Die natuur se reaksie hierop is dat plante hul blomme so vroeg as moontlik dra, sodat die voortplantingsproses steeds kan plaasvind ten spyte van die droë jaar.”

“The winter started with good rain, but afterwards there was practically no further precipitation. Nature's response to this is that plants will flower as early as possible, so that the reproduction process can still happen despite the dry year.”

It is my hope that some places will bloom later, as many people have trips booked for August and September.

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Still, I was restless! I phoned Sonja at Daisyland, Garies, for an update on the Namaqualand flowers. Yes, there were flowers, in places, about one month early. I sorted out some LekkaSlaap accommodation and packed Bowie into the car on Friday, 3 July, taking the N7 north.

We stopped at De Kleine Schuur, near Clanwilliam, for a walk and small breakfast. Bowie gets quite excited, he’s happy to see all the lekker tannies [nice aunties] and get cuddles. Here we saw our first daisies, though it was still a bit too early and cold for them to be open. I got their lekker jalapeño sourdough with chicken mayo, while Bowie enjoyed a side order of chicken, mayo kindly removed. Not that Bowie wanted to eat, there was a young boy who wanted to play.

It was a nice day for a road trip, with little traffic and not too far to go. Our destination was Nuwerus, about 270 km from Piket-Bo-Berg.

As I was ahead of schedule, I decided to make a short detour down the Gifberg road near Vanrhynsdorp. This area is quite spectacular when the flowers are in full bloom. Not quite yet. The daisies are only just starting to show (3 July 2026), but there were some other interesting flowers.

In Vanrhynsdorp, I bought some roosterkoek, tjops and boerewors from old acquaintances at the roadside. Jonathan (“meneer het mos laas ‘n foto gevat”) was attending the grill while Michelle and Johann were doing the financials. Michelle is one of the few English speakers in Vanrhynsdorp and I had to smile when she raised her voice slightly: “John, could you please…” Johann hadn’t been listening. I shered the meat with Bowie and had the roosterkoek as sak kos [pocket food].

We also looked in at the Rooi Deur Padstal, which is under new ownership. It was past 1 pm and I got a chaffle, which is a waffle with bacon, egg and cheese; I skipped the syrup. The beautiful mural is on one of the padstal’s walls.

I only had another 70 km to drive along a well-known section of road, and I stopped on the verge somewhere before Nuwerus to look at the flowers (we were now in the Succulent Karoo biome). The vygies were in full bloom! I also found some klip plantjies [stone plants], which bloom around May after the first winter rains. I do miss my trips to the Knersvlakte on the Namaqualand farm.

When I got to Nuwerus, I drove to the Bo-Dorp to see oom Toekie and anntie Aletta. They didn’t know that I was coming, I’d wanted to surprise them. Lily, who is Bowie’s mother, immediately recognized us when we stopped in front of the house.

We had a lekker koffie en gesêlsie, catching up on happenings. Their one son, Jandré, is currently in Kroonstad at the Correctional Services Training Centre. I’m so pleased for them, at least one of their children has found a way out of poverty and off the plaas.

Not so great was the news that both of my hanslammers [hand-reared lambs], Kleintjie and Witkol, had been slaughtered.

Also, one of the personalities of the town, oom Buks, had passed away and it was his funeral on Saturday. On the plus side, it gave me a chance to have a nice catch up with his partner, who was having a braai with friends at the Hardeveld Lodge, where we were staying.

It was awesome nice catching up with H&C at the Hardeveld Lodge. Two of the nicest people in Nuwerus and I do miss our braais and watching the rugby together.

We had a nice walk near the dam, which has got water. Here we had a nice view of the dorp and my cottage there, behind the school. A second cottage is being renovated behind my one. Far too close for my liking, I had made the right decision to move.

We had a lekker meal of chicken cordon bleu with yellow rice and gem squash, and then a good sleep. The next morning, we had a very nice breakfast of pap and creamed chicken livers. A first for me, Bowie also enjoyed a portion.

We’ll be back, Bowie and I, towards the end of July when we do another blommetjies road trip.

On Saturday morning we were on the road to Kamieskroon as our destination for the day. It had been a cold night, that Karoo kind of cold, but the day started with sunshine that promised a nice warmth to induce the blommetjies to open up.

When I’m in this area, I will often stop at Garies for petrol and also an update on the blommetjies at the Daisyland Toeriste Stal. You’ll get a map there that Sonja highlights with the best routes to drive for the flowers, while also giving you an update on the state of the gravel roads. Sonja drives many of the routes herself or gets updates from other travellers.

You can also have a browse in the shop, where they sell interesting books, lekker t-shirts, leather goods and food. This is the only shop that I know of selling Gert Sarrisam books, who went to school in Wallekraal and grew up near Groenrivier. And you can enjoy a light meal on the stoep, which is bathed in morning sunshine. Their cheese & onion toasties are my favourite while they also have a lekker melktert.

Bowie got a small HeeHaw donkey toy.

Before continuing on our journey towards Kamieskroon, we took a short detour towards Kheis, which I should include in my next visit, to have a look at the flowers there. I wasn’t disappointed, with an extra treat of seeing 4 donkeys next to the roadside. Garies and environs really is donkey world! Last year, a few of us actually took a ride in a donkey cart.

Lord Bowie of Namaqualand wasn’t too keen on strolling amongst the flowers, possibly too many thorns, and patiently lay on the road while Pa took photos.

It’s not far from Garies to Kammieskroon, and we were well ahead of schedule. I thus decided to drive to Soebatsfontein where I had seen an amazing vista of flowers in 2025.

At Grootvallei Farm, which is about 15 km from the N7, it was beautiful! Orange magrietjies [daisies] stretching to the horizon, and a windpomp as well.

Driving further towards Soebatsfontein, we saw flowers along the road and in patches on the hillsides. A flock of sheep coming down the road really made for a Namaqualand vibe.

The Soebatsfontein plain was bare, with only a few flowers here and there, and the veld looked very dry. I’ll be back towards the end of July, hoping for another great flower show and a drive down the Wildeperdehoekpas, which I did not get to this time.

Driving into Kamieskroon, we were met by a panorama of orange flowers all over the dorp. You’ll be seeing a lot of pictures of the NG Kerk on social media soon, it’s somewhat of a Namaqualand icon during the flower season.

I stopped at the Kliphuis Kombuis to enquire whether they had skaapkop [sheeps head] available for dinner. I’ve cooked skaapkop a few times, but it’s unlikely that I did it correctly, and want to try one that’s been cooked in a Namaqualand kitchen. With instructions on how to eat it!

They were packing up at the Kliphuis Kombuis after a morning market. “Ons het bietjie gekuier en gaan nou huis toe” [We hung out a bit and are heading home now], I was told. “Laat my weet as jy weer kom, dan hou ons ‘n skaapkop vir jou!” [Let me know when you come again, then we’ll have a sheep’s head for you!]

We went to find our accommodation @CosyCottages, who had sent me this message: “Just a friendly reminder, that our town only has 3 shops that sell minimal fresh produce and close early on Sundays.” Ja, nee, Kamieskroon is dead on a Sunday, I’ve been there before.

I dropped off the car @Francis cottage and Bowie and I walked to the Namib Padstal, which had been recommended by a Bowie fan in Garies. This place is a little off the road, but well worth the kilometre or so ompad. Tinkie, who’ll welcome you with a big smile, is the owner, chef, waitress, dishwasher. The menu is a bit of a Namaqualand & Namibia mix, and it took me a while to make a decision. Bowie had met Boesman, the local dog, and a tennis ball, which kept him busy. After ordering the Namakwa Legende: Skaapstertjies met Roosterkoek [Namaqua legend: sheep tails with ‘grilled bread’], I sat in the sun under some trees, looking out towards the Slaapende Boesman [the sleeping bushman] mountain.

The skaapstertjies were exceptional, falling off the bone, while roosterkoek is always a treat. There are other dishes that I will try with time. I forgot to ask where Graatjie the Meerkat was, I didn’t see him.

Bowie played with a tennis ball all the way back to our cottage, where we settled down for the night. The Boks had beaten England, we had a lekker sleep

Part 2, days 3 & 4, of our blommetjies road trip will follow in a day or two.

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In different news, plaas Ouma said that the fruit tree blossoms were at least 6 weeks too early and that farmers were now worried about a frost, which could possibly wipe out the harvest of early stone fruits.

We spent most of Sunday indoors as it rained all day. Not complaining, though, as we had 36 mm of much needed rain. It’s been quite dry after the exceptional and devastating storm that we had in May this year. It’s been a dry and warm winter thus far.

It was so cold and wet that Bowie did not venture outside, other than for our morning walk before the rain. Toby was warmly tucked up amongst his blankets, just about poking his nose out for a treat.

One of my cousins in Germany got married, at last, on Saturday. A fairly typical Bavarian wedding, with a photograph below of the band on the morning after the wedding. I assume they were in full action the previous evening as well!

I and my siblings grew up in South Africa without close family, and I only got to know two cousins reasonably well during my time in the UK: Georg and Judith. Georg got married on Saturday, after a long time together with Sabine. Es war Mal Zeit!

Monday was laundry day and then in the afternoon I took Bowie on a different walk as farmer Martin had pointed out some other routes last week when I spoke to him. This walk took us to a different part of the Bo-Berg, where we could see down into the Kapteinsklip valley. Along the way, I saw protea flowers that seemed to have been torn apart. I think those were baboons looking for the sweet nectar.

When we got home, I got some photos of Bowie from Org de Rac wine estate. I think they want to use him as a 'poster dog' for their pet-friendly Open Days. Blerrie cute!

On Saturday, at the Piket-Bo-Berg farmers’ market, two anties told me that there is a coffee shop in Goedverwacht. This is a Moravian village that I had been intending to visit for quite a while and Tuesday was as good a day as any, before the next rains predicted for Wednesday afternoon. I did some reading on the history of the village, then took the gravel two-track pad down the hill.

After reading the blogs, I was expecting a more vibrant atmosphere in Goedverwacht. I visited the beautiful church, having gotten permission from the predikant who had stopped on the road, and then found the two annties from the Piket-Bo-Berg farmers’ market that I had met on Saturday. They were busy sorting out fruit and vegetable orders, which go out on Thursdays. They also bake bread in wood-burning stoves on Monday and Friday. I’ve written more on my visit here.

On Wednesday, Bowie and I drove to the dorp to meet one of my former students, Alex, for a coffee at the Crazy Cat. He’s visiting his in-laws from Stellenbosch, and they were on their way back to Cape Town from the Kalahari and Citrusdal Baths. An inspirational story lies behind us, as is that of another student, Lesley, who will be ordained on Sunday.

I met Alex, Anlea, her mom and Koos at the Crazy Cat for a late breakfast, which was quite nice. We reminisced about their trip and life in South Africa, a short but lekker kuier.

Around the corner, at the Old Synagogue in Piketberg, I saw the beautiful daisies below. Piketberg is a warm place, normally about 5C warmer than here on the Bo-Berg, so I’m not entirely surprised that I saw them here, but it is quite early, nonetheless.

There have been reports that the Spring flowers are early in the Biedauw Valley, near Clanwilliam, near Pofadder and to the north of Springbok.

I phoned Sonja at Daisyland in Garies, my go-to Namaqualand blommetjies guide. The Spring flowers are one month early this year, she told me, and they’re starting around Garies and Kamieskroon.

The Namaqualand Spring flowers are a highlight of my year. It's not a given that they will bloom, a few years ago there was a 5 - 8 year drought. As I'll be at the farm for the next two weeks, I decided to take the weekend ‘off’ and drive to Kamieskroon on Friday morning.

Bowie and I on a Namaqualand road trip will be in my next Substack.

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Cape Town – jou lekker ding!

Sunday morning. It was time to leave Gauteng and head to Cape Town, the Mother City and the area where I grew up and completed my studies. A short flight, 2 hours, which was surprisingly full, a beautiful day and we landed to blue skies and quite warm.

My brother and my niece came to pick me up, I had not seen them for 4, maybe 6 years. It felt like I had never left, except the youngster is not a shy girl anymore, but a confident woman doing teacher training. We clicked immediately with jokes and jibes. Off we went to their home, where we had grown up, had coffee and spent the evening just catching up.

Ons het lekker k@k gepraat en te veel geëet. Ma het lekker kos gekook, en sy kook net een keer ‘n week.

And then there was Roxy, better known as Miss Wiggles. She would come sleep with me, lying under the blanket, and would let me know when she needed a cuddle. A small Jack Russell terrier with a big attitude and lots of love.

Monday morning was a bit nippy, though the sun was out and it got warm quite quickly. Niece and dad went off for a cycle ride at 5 am, just to get the heart going, dad said. Then all got ready for work. Dad was off to the Strand where he is buildings engineer. Ma is a community nurse and niece on her first teacher training secondment at a local secondary school .

Not long, and Junior, that’s my sister, and hubby rock up with their Range Rover and caravan, having driven from Windhoek, Namibia, about 1,500 km. Off we went to find a camp site. My, oh my, what a palaver. You need to book 3 days in advance. Oh dear, a few hours later and all was resolved and we could set up camp. The caravan would be our home for a few weeks, though we would be moving around and eventually travel back to Windhoek together.

Later that day, we drove to the nearby farm of Zevenwacht to watch the sunset and gaze down onto the Cape Peninsula. False Bay on one side, the Atlantic Ocean on the other side, and the Cape Flats and Table Mountain in between.

We used to play and swim in the dam at Zevenwacht as kids. These days, it’s an upmarket wine estate. In those days, nobody lived in the beautiful farmhouse. We spent some time reflecting on our youth and how privileged we were to live in such a beautiful place. We didn’t really appreciate our good fortune at the time, but we certainly do now.

On Tuesday morning, I was back to Zevenwacht for coffee with a friend that I hadn’t seen for probably 20 years. We had a nice walk and tour of the wine cellar. Wines are matured in oak casks, made of either French or American oak depending on the wine, for between 3 to 30 months. Casks were used up to 6 times, though only 3 times for red wines. On the farm they had Gewürztraminer vines that were 52 years old, with a yield of 2 tonnes per hectare. The yield for younger vines was 12-16 tonnes (I’m now wondering whether those old vines still exist). Along the Orange River table grapes are harvested at a yield of up to 50 tonnes, no wonder they have no flavour. Our guide, Francois, was quite character from the Northern Cape, ‘n hoes en ‘n poep en jy is deur die dorp.

First published on WordPress, 25 July 2017

Cape Town – memories, né

Cape Town is the city where I grew up and spent most of my formative years. To some extent, the city had changed beyond recognition, while many features that I recalled still remained. Table Mountain, of course, the townships and suburbs, University of Cape Town. The friendly people that have a special place in my emotional landscape (and were the main reason that I returned to South Africa).

We spent some time looking for a camp site and eventually settled into the Fish Hoek municipal caravan park. Right next to the beach, just behind the dunes. We went to sleep quite early, 2 hours after sunset, what we referred to as chicken time.

The next morning, I woke up early to see the sunrise from the beach. It was the middle of winter, and we had clear blue skies, which does happen in Cape Town, though rains were desperately needed after a prolonged drought. The beach was already busy with dog walkers, many of whom would stop for a chat, and a few joggers, one of whom stopped to talk to me a few days later. She was a volunteer from Germany, and I was wearing an anorak with a German flag on it, ex-army, you probably know the type.

I later also learnt that the pre- and post-sunrise walkers had different personalities, with the former seeming more friendly in general. On the opposite of the beach is an area restricted to swimmers, as in ‘no dogs allowed’. Pensioners would gather there with their bodyboards at around 8 am. There’s also a wonderful coastal walkway with the urban train from Simonstown alongside. A peaceful place that is ideal for quiet contemplation; I did not quite make it into the water as it was damn cold.

On this visit, there was a serious task ahead: I had volunteered to give 2 talks at UCT, one on ‘Feedback and Assessments’, from a university lecturer perspective. The other talk was on my experiences in Sierra Leone in 2015 (part 1; part 2; deployment 2). The first talk was in the old Grootte Schuur hospital, where the first human heart transplant took place, and the second talk in the Department of Molecular and Cell Biology, where I caught up with former colleagues.

I had completed my PhD there, when it was still the Department of Medical Biochemistry. Our laboratory was on the second floor, top two windows on the right. My view was across ‘hospital bend’ to Devil’s Peak.

Then, the Cape Town treat for me: Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens! These gardens are on the rear slopes of Table Mountain with Skeleton Gorge on one side and Devil’s Peak on the other. For me, this was always a want-to-go place when in Cape Town. I had never been there when some plants weren’t in bloom, especially protea and strelitzia. There are also many species of birds, my favourites being the sunbirds. I would recommend at least half a day, probably even a full day that includes a picnic on the lawns. One treat is the Centenary Tree Canopy Walkway, known colloquially as the Boomslang (tree snake). It’s a bit wobbly and jelly-legs syndrome is not uncommon for me.

The day ended with sunset on Chapman’s Peak drive with a view towards Hout Bay. Next trip, the Franschhoek valley and a round-trip to Robertson.

First published on WordPress, 16 August 2017

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Goedverwacht is at the bottom of the Piketberg mountains, off the road to Velddrif. I sometimes see it down doer [far away] in the valley below on some of my walks. Thus, not a far drive for me, about 20 km from the cottage, of which 10 km is a two-track gravel road down the side of a beautiful valley.

I did some reading prior to my visit:

• The village was originally a farm called Burgershoek that belonged to a widowed farmer, Hendrik Schalk Burger, who was cared for in his old age by his slave Christiana Maniesa and her five children, after his progeny had all but abandoned him. In his will, Hendrik Burger left the farm to Maniesa and her children with the instructions that when all her children had died, their descendants should sell the farm and divide the proceeds. The descendants decided to sell the farm to Moravian missionaries for 750 Pounds. Goedverwacht was established in 1889 as a Moravian Mission station.1

• In 1845 the Moravian missionaries were already interested in the farm, but Christiana Maniesa only died in 1888. In the interim, the missionaries bought the adjoining farm and Wittewater was established in 1857.”2

• Goedverwacht is something out of Eden. This fascinating little settlement is characterized by historic, white-washed thatched homes with brightly painted windows and doors. The old water mill – now the Mill Museum, the parsonage as well as the church are all National Monuments and are well worth a visit. “3

I had a mental picture while driving to Goedverwacht, but I was to be somewhat disappointed. The old water mill is closed and looks dilapidated, as is the community hall, which is now closed with a ‘dangerous’ sign on the door. Two nearby hikes – Klok se Poort and the Peerboom Route, are signposted but totally overgrown and I was advised not to walk these routes.

The church is magnificent and I was allowed inside, given permission by the predikant, even though they were busy painting. There were a few other nice buildings, though without signposting to inform the visitor.

In talking to locals, I picked up a tension between the local community and the Moravian Church, similar to that which I detected in Wuppertal. It’s about property ownership and the church controlling what is allowed, or not. A case in point is the Goedverwacht Snoek & Patat Festival, which is no longer held in Goedverwacht but rather on a nearby farm. The church would not accede to a liquor license for the duration of the festival. Is it still ‘Die Mênse se Fees’ [The People’s Festival]? I’ll try to attend the next festival in June 2027 to find out for myself.

Goedverwacht is a ‘sustainable working village’ with numerous gardens and organic vegetable gardens4. Once I had found the Snoek & Patat building, which is the coffee shop during Easter flower festival, my mood improved. One of Saturday’s annties, Hisstar, was busy putting together fruit and vegetable orders, which are collected on Thursdays. They also bake bread on Mondays and Saturdays. Hisstar showed me the wood-fired bakery and then showed me the Tienvoet Tuin, where the other anntie, Felicity, was busy in the vegetable patch.

You can place orders on 063 609 8203.

Of interest, at least to me, was the collection and drying of ‘wilde dagga’, which is used in traditional medicine with some scientific evidence of its efficacy5 (I want to do some more reading). A nice money maker, Hisstar told me.

One problem they have in the Goedverwacht gardens are baboons, which are now found more often in the mountain valleys due to the recovery of the leopard population in the Piketberg mountains.

My last stop was at the Slave Graves, where I felt a certain melancholy while walking amongst the graves. The graves nearest to the gate are marked with white crosses, though no inscriptions. As one walks further into the graveyard, there some elaborate headstones and many graves marked only with a simple stone. Of the latter, I found one with an inscription.

Text within this block will maintain its original spacing when published

A tribute to our slave mother
Manisa
Arrived by slave ship
in the Cape 
in the year 1790/91
Passed away 27.4.1828
at Burgerskloof

I’ll go back to Goedverwacht once the weather warms up and the flowers bloom! Sit on a stoep with Hisstar and Felicity, listening to them telling stories. I’m sure it’ll be a different experience.

Finally, a quick mention of Bowie, who was his well-behaved and patient self, except when he saw sheep in a nearby paddock. Fortunately, I could get hold of him before he caused havoc with the newborn lambs. I think he understood.

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That meant that I could go to the Piket-Bo-Berg farmers market on Saturday, which I’d skipped at the end of June. Also, some friends were driving over from Lamberts Bay for the day, so we could meet up for a coffee and gesêlsie.

Being all dressed up with nowhere to go, we went for a nice long walk on Wednesday morning in search of a flowering Satyre orchid, which I eventually found. Bowie twice went for a swim in the dam, coming back with a muddied face. Alas, no horses in the paddock.

Later in the afternoon, we had to go to the dorp. One of the local estate agents had told me about a walk near the water reservoir, which Bowie and I explored. A nice walk for our dorp visits, before driving back to the cottage.

On a whim, I took Bowie to oom Gert’s plaas on Wednesday, where we had a nice catch-up with the pruning crew and then visited oom Jan, who’s building me a draadkar [how does one translate draadkar into English?]. He also walked me through his garden, showing me boom spanspek [tree cantaloupe], patats [sweet potato], kanniedood [geranium] and roses, explaining to me how he grafted different roses onto one rootstock. A poor and humble man, making the best of life.

On our evening walk, we met young farmer Martin from the next-door farm. They are rushing to get their krulblaar spraying done before the rains predicted for Sunday (the tractors were running late into the night). The peach blossoms are early, but it doesn’t worry him. They are focussed on quality, while their neighbours are focussed on quantity. He enjoys the pruning season, as he has to think of the coming harvest as well as the plant’s growth in the next 1 - 2 years.

When we got home, Bowie was very tired and fell asleep on my stinky socks.

On Friday, I needed to go to the dorp to update the pantry. I have to leave Bowie in the car while I’m in the supermarket and usually, he’s in the front seat waiting for me. Not this time, he was lying on the back seat. And then I found the ‘cookie jar’ open. Maybe that was a mild ‘guilty’ look I saw?

Anyways, after getting some cash at the ATM, for the weekend’s Piket-Bo-Berg farmers market, we went to the Org de Rac wine estate for a nice walk and an early lunch. This time, I tried the West Coast oysters and smoked salmon bagel. The oysters were quite sweet, and I wondered whether they had been cultivated in a lagoon or estuary. The smoked salmon was also nice though I’m more of a snoek fan.

It’s always pleasant at Org de Rac, friendly staff and good food. I still want to try their wine. If you’re in the Piketberg area, their open day is on the last Saturday of each month.

I was hoping that Bowie could have a play date with Merlot at the Nieuwedrift wine estate, but Merlot was at home and not available. A young child started playing with Bowie and he had fun. “May I take Bowie to meet my parents?”, to which I responded: “Yes, but you’ll have to ask Bowie.” He was unsure, looking back at me constantly. The mother came to meet Bowie. “I’m going to have a pizza and milkshake for lunch’, and off she skipped with her mom.

On Saturday, Bowie and I were all dressed up and, at last, we had somewhere to go: It was the Piket-Bo-Berg farmers’ market. A beautiful day, which meant the market was outdoors under the trees. B.E. and the kids from Lamberts Bay came to have a look and there were plenty of other people that I have gotten to know in my short time on the Bo-Berg. Bowie always enjoys it, as it’s a pet friendly, off-leash market. Lots of dogs to play with and people to greet.

Lots of highlights and treats! I bought some White King Protea, such a magnificent flower, lekker bread and sweet treats (naughty naughty), instant melkkos met die riempies, add hot milk, samoosas and sweetcorn poffertjies. The band played and at a table next to the were a group that came prepared, having brunch with freshly bought bread, cheese, figs and olives. Ja, and Bowie got a treat from B.E.

It was also an Open Day at the Goedverwacht Wine Estate, and I dragged a bunch along. B.E. and her ossewa, and then also M.R. & F., my new German friends from the Bo-Berg.

First, though, M.R. & F. invited us to their small-holding and showed us the lemon and lime groves, a before we walked up the koppie to see the native plants amongst the rocks and also buchu, which was a first for B.E.

At Org de Rac, we ordered some food and a Chardonnay 2025, which paired well with the pepperoni & hot honey pizza. That pizza was exquisite! I had a slice while also enjoying the Roosterkoek burger. It was so nice, everyone just talking, listening, enjoying. '“We could just be”, said B.E, before they drove the long road back to Lamberts Bay.

Bowie was part of a ‘photoshoot’ at Org de Rac. I think they’ll be using pictures on their website to advertise their pet-friendly Open Days. He is mos good looking!

We got up unusually late on Sunday, 07:30, which was a nice change from the normal early mornings. It was cold and misty outside, but we got in a nice walk before the predicted and much necessary rain.

We’ll be brumating for the rest of the day (Bowie’s already on the bed, waiting for me to join him). Enjoy on your side!

Addendum:

I didn’t know that it was the Goedverwacht Snoek en Patat Fees on Saturday. Such a shame, we would’ve enjoyed that!

The Namaqualand flower season is getting closer. Some good tips for travelling and seeing the flowers can be found here.

“The [Conophytum] genus has experienced catastrophic population collapses, with 40% to 85% of species declining from “Least Concern” to “Critically Endangered” in less than a decade.”

I often post my plant and flower pictures on iNaturalist, as I get ‘human’ identifications and some biology. Two recent finds surprised me somewhat. The kukumakranka (genus Gethyllis), which I had thought is only found in the Succulent Karoo biome, is actually quite widespread in southern Africa. By contrast, Oxalis ebracteata, a humble white flower that is quite common on the koppie behind my cottage, has a rather focussed presence in this region.

I’ve been doing some reading on the benefits of forest bathing, called Shinrin-yoku in Japanese, which is a short, leisurely visit to a forest. The psychological and physiological benefits of such an immersive sensory engagement with nature are backed up by scientific studies.123

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Every day started with a walk with my uncle, who was also my Patenonkel [godfather]. In the distance we could see the Zugspitze, the highest mountain peak in Germany. Beyond that is Austria and to the northwest, Switzerland. To my mind, Bavaria is culturally more aligned with Austria than the other parts of Germany.

Munich has a fantastic little market, just off the tourist trail at the end of the Fussgängerzone [pedestrian zone], where all sorts of treats can be found, amongst others Lebkuchen and glühwein Krapfen [donuts], which naturally had to be tried.

The Weihnachtsmarkt [Christmas market] was not really to my liking, too many people, so I went to the Deutsches Museum, which is for the sciences and engineering, with many hands-on demonstrations, especially directed at children. They used to have a big train set, where I would sit and watch as a child, but that’s now in a different museum.

The museum has many demonstrations, amongst others a glassblower. As iI was the only person at the glassblower’s demonstration, the first of the day, we got to talking. He completed two separate apprenticeships over 6 years before qualifying as a glassblower. He told me about the origins of Christmas baubles (which I verified separately).

Somewhere in southern Bavaria, there are two glassblower Doerfer [towns]. These were poor people and every Christmas they would hang fresh fruit, which was a luxury in those days, on the Christmas tree. However, one of the families couldn’t afford to buy fruit. The glassblower father then came up with the idea of making imitation fruits to hang on the tree: glass balls of different colours. This idea then spread around the Dorf. Not long after, a man by the name of Woolworth was travelling through Europe looking for things to sell in his Woolworths shops. He saw the decorative baubles, took them back to New York and the rest is history.

A demonstration of liquid nitrogen was very interesting; I was a research scientist at one time, and we regularly used liquid nitrogen to freeze down sample. It is produced by a cyclical compression process (gas distillation?) that cools the gas that then liquifies at -196ºC and solidifies at -210ºC.

Food frozen in liquid nitrogen does not go soggy after thawing, as smaller water crystals are formed during the freezing process. We were also shown superconductors, which were a ‘hot topic’ at that time.

I took a few days off from travelling for the Christmas celebrations. Too much food and drink, even a visit to a local church. In Bavaria, they celebrate with family on Christmas Eve and afterwards there may be a midnight mass, this part of Germany being staunchly catholic.

On Christmas day, we would go to a local Wirtshaus (which is more than a pub), where they would serve sumptuous meals including roast goose and potato dumplings, the Bavarian ones.

These establishments would close after Sylvester (New Year’s Eve), usually for two weeks. They are also closed for one day each week, with each Wirtshaus in a district having a different day off.

After Christmas, my uncle and I visited the Buchheim Museum der Phantasie, which was donated to the Bernried, Bavaria, community by Lothar Guenter Buchheim, the author of Das Boot, which was filmed as a television serial. An architectural and artistic masterpiece that contains all-sorts of crazy and beautiful artworks, such as those by Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

Lastly, a visit to Oberammergau, which is probably best known for the Passionsspiele, which take place every 10 years and are about the Crucifixion, to my understanding.

I always enjoyed Germany, in small doses. It takes me back to my childhood and allows me to speak my mother-tongue for days rather than minutes. However, it is too ‘square’ for me, I would not survive there. I am an African, that’s home, end of story.

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First published on WordPress, 2 January 2017

The first invite was a bit cryptic: “Bring Mensch und Hund” [Bring human and dog]. Intriguingly vague, delightful.

For the evening invite: “Eet jy skaapboud wat op die rooster gebraai is?” [Do you eat leg of lamb that has been braai’d?] Deboned, I learnt later. Another delight, and a new treat for me.

I packed Bowie into the car, and we drove to the F&M, who live on the other side of the valley. They needed a translator for a meeting with a cantankerous neighbour (he was a real Koos, the neighbour).

Afterwards, we had a nice walk around their smallholding, looking at plants, talking farming and admiring the view. On one side, they look down a kloof to Aurora, on the other side they can see the West Coast. Speaking German, a rare and welcome occurrence for me these days. Sitting in the shade of some trees, drinking home-made lime cordial and rooibos tea.

Bowie was confused by the cat, who ‘growled’ at him. He did, however, have a nice play with Foxy, though Bowie was being a bit of a randy teenager. On our walk, Bowie got spoilt with treats by M.R., so nice. So much action, Bowie was lekker moeg when we got back to the cottage, falling asleep under the table.

I could feel some burn on my face, it being one of those beautiful June days that we can get in the Cape.

Around 5 pm I walked over to my neighbours, who had kindly invited me for a skaapboud braai. A.S. was already waiting for us. He was ready to put the meat on the braai, and I hadn’t yet taken a photo. It was quite a chunk of meat, which he slow-grilled to perfection. And a lekker marinade as well. Add to that delicious braai broodjies and coleslaw, it was lip lek lekker (lip-licking nice). They can make lekker food, C&A. It’s always a nice treat and a nice gesêlsie.

Bowie was quite quiet, he was still moeg. When we got home, he got some treats and fell asleep almost immediately. Toby was also quiet, lying indoors; it may have been too cold outside for him.

Wednesday was a purposely quiet. In the morning, Bowie and I walked past the horse pasture. He sat down, looking for the horses, but we couldn’t see anything.

We took another walk in the afternoon. I needed a kop skoonmaak [clear my head], as I was overthinking the planning of trips to see the Namaqualand flowers. I’ve already got a fee days booked at the end of July. It’s warm, though, the flowers may be early. Patience, young man, patience.

We walked a slightly different route, and I could see the horses. They saw us and trotted over. Bowie was a little apprehensive, sitting down next to me, not moving closer. I didn’t want to frighten the horses; they might run off and get injured.

The horses came up to the gate. I approached slowly, Bowie staying next to me. The horses stayed calm, as did Bowie. Love was in the air! Bowie jumped up a few times to try and lick their faces, as he does with me. The horses, not used to this behaviour, shied a little, but did not walk away. It was a real privilege watching this interaction between Bowie and the horses. beautiful!

On Thursday, we went for a walk on the Dennegeur plaas, where farmer Gert explained a bit more of the pruning process to me. The pear trees are already showing new buds and can thus be pruned. The bigger buds will produce both a blossom and a new leaf, and these buds are maximised through pruning. Brunches with only the smaller buds, which will be only a leaf, are removed. This increases the amount of sunshine getting to the ripening fruit later.

A further process of trimming and training occurs later. The ‘tussen boome’, the cross-pollination trees that are a different variety, will also be cut back at that time.

The last apples are still being harvested here on the Bo-Berg and the first peach trees are already blossoming. Peach and nectarine trees have a pink blossom, pears a white blossom and apples are pink and white.

Afterwards, Bowie and I went for a nice walk through the orchards and along the veld, with a nice view down to Goedverwacht in the valley below. Bowie went for his obligatory swim.

Friday was a busy day with a visit to the dorp first thing to get some groceries and a quick visit to the pharmacy. I was finished in the dorp by about 09:30 and, as it was too early for lunch, I drove a few miles down the N7 to the Org de Rac wine estate. I checked in at the wine tasting room to let them know that I would be taking Bowie for a walk through the vineyards. They remembered us from our previous visit. Bowie said Hello and got some nice cuddles before we had a nice long walk.

I had a nice pot of rooibos tea before leaving, letting the sun bronze me and enjoying the view. A beautiful day, this winter has been too mild thus far (except for the big storm in May).

I had planned to go to the Nieuwedrift Wine Estate for lunch, which was only another 2 km down the road. Another beautiful estate and a good lunch, which I have written up as a Langsie Pad Substack. Bowie had a great time with one of the farm collies, aptly named Merlot.

They would playfight, run off, come back and cooldown in the fountain. They even played hide-&-seek in some bushes, to the great amusement of fellow visitors.

Bowie was quite tired by the time that we left the farm and fell asleep soon after getting into the car. I can see another playdate coming!

After Friday’s mild over-indulgence, Bowie and I went for a long walk on Saturday morning. Amongst others, I found a flowering daisy that I have not seen previously. Will the flower season be early this year, much like the previous few years? On the neighbouring farm, some of the early peaches are already in full bloom.

We saw the horses again, one of them getting close enough to smell my hand. I stepped back for a while and Bowie interacting with the horse; he seems to think it’s a big toy and wants to take the horse home.

It was a young lady’s birthday here next door and Bowie and I were invited to a kerrie hoender [curried chicken] braai for lunch. It’s the first time I’ve had curried chicken on a braai and it was scrumptious. About two ossewa [ox wagon] of family also arrived, which made the birthday bash quite jovial. Three sisters and their children as well as the parents of C.S. came for the kuier. It was quite lekker though A.S., Bowie, and I got a bit peopled out, with Bowie having a snooze in the flower bed. “Kaalgat in die daisies”, as A.S. described it. That said, Toby was indoors lying on his blanket, not much lus for socializing.

I had planned to see a local rugby match here on the Bo-Berg and left before luch was served. When we returned, there was a bakkie of hoender en slaai [chicken and salad] waiting for me, as well as freshly made lemon meringue pie. Yoh, te lekker!

I found out a few weeks ago that there’s actually a small rugby ground here in Piket-Bo-Berg and I knew that it was a home match on Saturday. However, even better, it was a local derby with both teams from the Bo-Berg. The Zebras, from our side of the valley and thus my team, were playing against the Moutain Eagles.

This type of rugby is different, not quite so serious. No ‘action replays, so you have to stay focussed while listening to the running commentary around you. “Hier kom hy nou!” “Moet nie so baie skop nie!” “Ek het mos gesê hy gaan score!” I enjoyed it, as did Bowie who got a lot of attention from the children. The score was 16:7 to the Zebras at half-time.

Shortly after the break, one of the Zebra got a nasty injury with an unfortunate hit on the knee. That hurt! The sun was setting and I wanted to get out before the scramble. It was 19:7 when we left to return to the cottage.

The early peaches are starting to blossom, maybe a little early. We didn’t see the horses on our Sunday morning walk.

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I wanted to get a nice bottle of wine for a young lady having a birthday on the weekend and, having been to Org de Rac previously for lunch, I decided to try the Nieuwedrift wine estate.

It’s about 10 km south of Piketberg on the N7 Cape Namibia route, so an easy drive for me after my weekly shopping in the dorp (about 150 km north of Cape Town). One drives into a beautiful werf [farmyard] that still has an old kraal and barn.

The restaurant itself is a spacious area of grass with a children's playground and a dam beyond. Beautiful views onto the Piketberg mountains.

It was Friday afternoon, with only one tour group from Velddrif on the next table.

It's a pet-friendly establishment and Bowie was soon frolicking with the aptly named Merlot. All-round, a friendly place, staff and all. The farm owner walked around, though he didn't loiter for long. “My vrou wag,” he said with a distinctive brrrei [he rolls his r’s, a feature of Afrikaans speakers in the Swartland]. The staff addressed him as Oom [uncle], which I really liked; it’s definitely warmer than the usual Meneer.

I ordered some jalapeño poppers, which were huge! And a bit hot, as in spicy. “Hulle gaan my exhaust with brand” [they'll clean my exhaust], I mentioned to the waitress. Very lekker, I enjoyed them.

At the other table, they'd ordered some wines to taste, which came with farm olives. I drooled a bit!

My main course, though delivered at the same time, was a thin-base pizza. I don’t often eat pizza, but they had been recommended by my neighbour. The pizza I had really ticked all the boxes for me. Nice and thin, prepared in a wood-burning oven, like authentic Italian pizza.

I had the Happy Hour pizza, which had an ‘olive oil drizzled top with green figs, mozzarella. cheddar, brie cheese, caramelized onions and rocket’. The olive oil gave the pizza a slight moistness, to my liking. One often gets ‘over-cheesed’ pizza, but not in this case. The green figs and caramelized onions provided a nice contrast to the cheese. The rocket salad leaves provided am aesthetically pleasing picture but added nothing in terms of taste. One does, though, start a meal with the eyes.

To finish off, a tasty treat of baked cheesecake. Fairly light, not cloying. A bit like Mom used to make it, though her cheesecake is still the best.

By the time that I was done with my nice lunch, Bowie was quite tired from his frolics with Merlot.

Next time, I’ll try a burger.

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