Anyway, tucked at the back were some “Rules for Living.” One caught my eye. At any given time, he owns around two dozen (!) white Lacoste polos.

As Carter writes:

Get two. If you really like something, always get two or more—especially if it’s something that you aren’t sure will remain in production. Some years ago, Lacoste came out with a plain white polo shirt with a white-on-white logo on the chest. It was sturdy pique, and it seemed to mask any number of areas of my physique that were not as trim as they had once been … As it became harder and harder to get them, I doubled down on my orders, figuring they would soon stop making them. And, indeed, Lacoste did take the shirts out of production—but not before I had assembled about two dozen. I have worn one every day for much of the past two decades.

Now I’ve never thought of the man as a fashion icon but that’s solid advice. And it made me think more about the white polo.

Although I have a few navy vintage Lacoste polos, I hadn’t considered white. I was inspired and picked up a classic white piqué long-sleeved version, thinking it would work better under a blazer and, in white, the long sleeves might make it look a bit less like I’m on my way to a game of tennis. It has been a real boon to my summer wardrobe ever since. A white polo suggests confidence, optimism…WRECKLESSNESS. I’ve worn it with swim trunks, with fatigues, jeans, and under a blazer it acts as a collared shirt would, but more relaxed.

The other thing about Lacoste is the logo. Besides the fact that they invented the polo, there’s something delightfully absurd about the Crocodile that I appreciate (there are, after all, no crocs in France), and the brand has always approached it with the same wink and sense of humour that René Lacoste himself was known for. I love Ralph, but for me, the Pony polo doesn’t quite hit the same.

Although I have big love for vintage Lacoste polos, honestly, a brand new one is just fine if you don’t have that sort of patience. It’s perfectly boxy, and you know what you’re getting as opposed to rolling the dice on the eBay fit (plus not totally banged-up vintage white polos are hard to come by).

Functionally, the Lacoste collar spreads out nicely when unbuttoned, and the placket is sturdy enough to stand straight and fold over in a heap. The collar too is holding up in the wash and tucks under a jacket nicely. Are they as well made as one from the ‘80s? - probably not, but they’re fine.

Now I’m not quite as committed to the white polo as the Ottawa-born publishing legend is—I only have one, not a dozen—but I wouldn’t mind another for when this one is in the wash.

Most of us aren’t flying Concorde to Europe like Graydon Carter used to, but a white Lacoste polo might make the next economy flight feel a little more like business class.

A few things I’ve worked on since my last send.

For the Globe and Mail, I spoke to Brunello Cucinelli himself about his new film.

For the FT’s HTSI, ‘90s Surf Style Never Dies, It Just Catches Another Wave.

My first travel feature, a guide to Puerto Rico.

I spoke to Chanel’s Global Head of Creative about Blue de Chanel’s new campaign with Jacob Elordi

The best coffee shops in Toronto for Roadbook.

Not my work, but I was asked about dress sneakers vs dress shoes in the New York Times.

My favourite summer pick-ups.

Body of Work Senna Hoodie

I used to wear suits to work; now I’m freelance, and I need another hoodie like I need a hole in the head. Nevertheless.

Body of Work founders Dwayne and Brittney recently opened their new Summerhill location, and I was powerless but to buy it in person. For the uninitiated, Body of Work designs, knits, dyes, cuts and sews everything in Canada. This hoodie particular is a buttery-soft pre-washed and brushed French terry cotton that is difficult to resist.

Every Other Thursday Plaid Shirt

I really appreciate EOT founder Ethan Glenn and his attention to fit and fabric. He always alawys seems to have just the right colours at the right time. This plaid shirt is no exception; it’s perfectly light and casual for summer, but with collar stays that keep the collar at attention. It’s been a mainstay in the rotation.

Gap 11” Relaxed Cargo Shorts (Seen Above)
CAN Link / US Link

I well and truly cannot get enough of Gap lately, or is it “the Gap”? I’m Gap-pilled. I tried the JW Anderson Uniqlo cargos, but they were a little too clean, too neutered, too designed. These, however. Capacious pockets, a long baggy fit and only $30, which is ideal if you’re not committed. Pretty perfect. I now own cargo shorts for the first time since The OC aired.

Thanks for reading.

Daylight savings has passed, false spring and Winter II have come and gone, and it finally looks like the real thing is sticking. The Blue Jays home opener is next week. We are, as they say, so back. Here’s what I’m buying, what I’m seeing—and what’s currently under consideration.

Carhartt WIP Spring ‘26

I was invited to the Carhartt WIP store a couple weeks ago to check out what their latest.

The Detroit jacket and Double-Knees are obviously perennials at this point and knock yourself out with those. Iconic for a reason. But while I was browsing, I noticed a few more interesting pieces beyond the well-known hits that felt worth pointing out.

OG Sante Fe Jacket, $

A yee-haw-ified take on the classic Detroit work jacket, the Santa Fe adds Western yokes across the front, which—personally—puts a little extra pep in my two-step.

Prescott Barn Coat

Barn coats are still going strong. Approve. I picked up the J.Crew last fall. But if that one doesn’t have enough edge for you, the Carhartt version will do nicely. It has the same classic cord collar and boxy shape bit is a bit less Northeastern prep.

Beale Long Sleeve Shirt
Loving the very ‘90s vertical stripes here,along with its easy, slightly oversized look.

Torion Hoodie

This faded red/dusty pink colour is really the colour of the moment in menswear, right now. And Carhartt WIP does a super cozy hoodie with it.

Other Gear

7Mesh Guardian Apex Jacket

This time of year, a proper rain shell is essential. I’m not much of an outdoorsman—I generally try to avoid situations that involve sleeping or, worse, shitting in the woods—so my rain jackets sometimes skew a little less practical. I’ve got a vintage Burberry mac for when things need to look respectable, but that’s not exactly the move for schlepping around the city in a proper downpour.

Enter 7Mesh. The Squamish, B.C. brand was founded by a group of former Arc’teryx designers who set out to build technical outerwear with cyclists in mind. The jackets are dialled for riding, but they translate easily to hiking, skiing, or just getting across town without arriving soaked. Another solid entry in the growing canon of Canadian outerwear.

Uniqlo JW Anderson Windproof Stand Blouson

Johnathan Anderson’s ongoing collab with Uniqlo is back, and although I’ve personally been a bit underwhelmed with some past editions, this time it’s as good as it’s ever been. These minty oversized shirts and two-tone tees are simple but clever and keep us all on our toes.

And speaking of city-boy tendencies, I just picked up this spring jacket (or “blouson” as they are calling it) for the season. The collar is excellent, and it hits at just right at the waist, cinching cleanly. It’s windproof with a water-repellent finish—so not quite built for a full downpour—but it looks good, don’t it?

Haven SS26

HAVEN recently released their Spring collection, and it’s reliably brilliant. The lads out in Vancouver continue to do that thing where everything feels considered but so functional and easy to wear. Check it out here.

Also, the hits just keep coming because their collab with OTW by Vans launches later today and looks very tasty indeed.

Noah Hopsack Blazer

News broke a couple of weeks ago that J.Crew creative director Brendan Babenzien is stepping down and heading back to focus on his own brand, Noah. I’ll admit, I’d love a reason to get excited about Noah again (it’s fine, it just hasn’t done a lot of new stuff in a while), so I’m hoping he returns and lights things up. That said, there are a few things the brand has quietly continued to do very well. I’ve long been a fan of their tailoring. In fact, I still have a blazer I picked up at their Tokyo shop in ‘17 that remains in steady rotation—and, looking back, was one of my early gateways into proper tailoring.

Adidas Adistar Control 5

Last week, Adidas invited me to the launch of the Adistar 5 Control, their take on the chunky, mesh-heavy running silhouette that’s been circulating thanks again to the ongoing Y2K nostalgia. It leans into that early-2000s runner look but adds a few modern updates, and comes in a wide range of colours. And I have to say, I was skeptical, but the muted white is really sharp. Though there are plenty of louder, slightly freakier colourways if that’s more your thing.

Our Legacy Shirts

Pep Guardiola went semi-viral this week for wearing Our Legacy on the touchline. Giving him a sort of chilled out grunge musician look. Meanwhile, a bunch of new OL gear just landed at Lost and Found, so you can steal the look.

Thistles ‘The Jack’ Sunglasses

Starting to think about shades. Thistles—a buzzy NYC label from stylist and photographer Thistle Brown—has been nailing it the last few years. I’ve got my eye on ‘The Jack’, which is obviously inspired by the GOAT Jack Nicholson. And conveniently, it’s on sale right now.

Bombas All Sport Calf Socks 4-Pack

After going absolute Beast Mode on the food-and-drink circuit in the back half of last year, I’ve made my return to the gym. I’ve been really consistent for the last month, and so of course, I’m already convincing myself I need new gear (stay tuned, this may spiral into its own post).

Starting simple: these Bombas socks. Seamless toe, cushioned footbed, proper arch support. moisture-wicking, temperature-regulating, odour-resisting. Hard to look at your Nike 3-packs the same way after these.

Link Up

Stories to click/tap.

The Legasaurus Machine Is Legendary Among Gym Bros. I Went on a Quest to Try It / GQ

The Highly Exclusive Way That Everybody Shops Now / The Atlantic

Why Tech Bros Are Now Obsessed with Taste The New Yorker

Meet City Pool Warrior, Toronto’s funniest meme account / Toronto Life

I’m heading somewhere warmer next week and realizing my current footwear rotation isn’t built for sun or sand. Considering my options. Will report back.

Thanks for reading.

—BK

Permanent Press Picks

Winter Favourites So Far…

The sun’s sticking around a little longer each night, and daylight saving is almost here—but let’s not kid ourselves, we’ve got a long way to go. So since it’s been a while since I sent a ‘Stack, here are a few things I’ve seen and worn this past winter that are genuinely worth your time.

🍁 House of Blanks Vintage Maple Leaf Hoodie, $150 CAD

House of Blanks—the Toronto maker of quality fleece and cotton knits—made its first non-blank just in time for the Olympics. Unlike the official (disgraceful) Lululemon gear, it’s actually made in Canada. The red-and-white crewnecks disappeared fast, but there are still hoodies left. Their regular blanks are the real story: beautifully made hoodies, sweatshirts, T-shirts, sweatpants and more, available in plenty of colours, and produced entirely in Canada.

I wrote about the brand in the Globe and Mail last month, if you want to learn more about a leader in Canadain fleece.

Every Other Thursday Wool Fistherman Knit Turtleneck Sweater

A chunky turtleneck can feel like a bold move. I’ve found that this one from Every Other Thursday makes it easy—roomy through the body with a structured chunky turtleneck that holds its shape and frames the face. And if that still feels like too much, the same cut is available as a straightforward crewneck.

🍁 HAVEN Superfine Wool Waffle Crewneck, $275

Okay, stay with me. Waffle long-sleeves are usually cotton. Vancouver’s HAVEN swapped that out for Japanese wool instead—breathable, moisture-wicking, and far better at resisting odour. She pricey, but it’s been an excellent base layer all winter, which I’ll continue to wear on its own once things warm up. Easily the softest thing I’ve put on this season.

The entire HAVEN brand is tremendous. I just wrote about my favourite pants for GQ as well.

Buck Mason Cabinessence Flannel CPO Shirt, $188 USD

A funny thing happened at some point in the last few years. Buck Mason, a brand that started in the DTC boom of the early 2010s (very similar to Frank & Oak, a Canadian brand I used to work for that no longer exists, RIP), now makes some of the best menswear around and earned the respect of a lot of the heads. They even bought a factory in PA. They’ve obviously made some smart strategy decisions to get to this point and not burn out like the F&O’s and Everlanes of the world.

All that to say, this midweight flannel I picked up in California is cut like a classic work shirt and pulls details from ‘40s U.S. Navy shirts, all with brushed indigo-dyed cotton that looks even better after I washed it.

Note: If you’re in Canada, the shipping/duty charges are absurd (something I hope they rectify soon), so it’s best to check things out in-store if you’re ever down south.

Nothings Something Fleece-Lined Jeans, $200 USD

This is the coldest winter we’ve had in years. These fleece-lined jeans from Scandi brand Nothings Something have carried me through it.

The Real McCoys Socks, $55

Sometimes it’s nice to splurge on socks. These are super thick, super warm, super high — wish I had one for every day of the week.

Uniqlo Spring ‘26 Picks

The good people at Uniqlo Co., Ltd. invited me to their Spring/Summer preview earlier this week.

As usual, there’s a lot to like. The collabs and sublines are firing on all cylinders as usual, from the reliably good JW Anderson collection to the Clare Waight Keller–designed C collection (my favourite), to the main line gear. A few things I saw up close that I’d actually recommend…

C Milano Full-Zip Cardigan

I hurried to the store to snag this one as it’s already selling out. It’s technically a women’s piece (but designed to be unisex), but I was sold the second I saw it on the Uniqlo team at the showroom. It’s sort of a cardigan, sort of a track top and the white contrast zipper really pops. I grabbed the beige, but only the dark brown is left. Worth moving fast if you want one.

C Barrel Pant (pictured above)

Keeping the brown theme going, I picked up the collection’s 100% cotton twill barrel pants. I wasn’t totally sold on the barrel shape at first—it’s got that rounded, roomy leg that narrows slightly at the hem. Was it too trendy? Once I threw it on with the zip-up, it made complete sense.

Type I Denim Trucker Jacket

This denim jacket is modelled after a Levi’s Type I trucker jacket, a style that they produced in the ‘50s and ‘60s, defined by the vertical front pleats, single chest pocket and back waist synch (as opposed to the more popular Type III that everybody knows and loves). On trend. 80 bucks. Can’t lose! (Available later this month.)

Sunglasses

They’re going bigger on sunglasses this year, with a wide range of styles and a tidy $30 price tag. I’m generally not in favour of cutting corners on eyewear— they’re front-and-centre on your face—but these hold their own. If you’re prone to losing your sunglasses you could do a lot worse.

One Last Thing…

on Uniqlo, last month, for GQ, I wrote about how I flipped my Veilance puffer for one from Uniqlo. I’ve been really impressed by how warm it is for a fraction of the price of a more “designer” coat. It also fits better. You can read the full story here. All of Uniqlo’s coats are on mega sale, so if you’ve been contemplating a new coat, it’s a good time to grab one.

Links

Stories to click/tap on.

• First up, a great little post about learning how the sausage is made.

A RESTLESS TRANSPLANT

Akin to believing light beer is a solution to alcoholism: My time at Patagonia

In the late spring of 2012, the cash from my advance for The Burning House photobook was running low and I was in no mood to return to anything resembling a traditional office. I was less than a year into living in my van, had just fallen in love with surfing empty point breaks in Baja and was working on a photo project that turned into Vanlife. Neither…

Read more

8 months ago · 750 likes · 108 comments · Foster Huntington

• Handsome at Any Cost — NY Times

  This profile of the Looksmaxxing influencer Clavicular is genuinely fascinating. He’s apparently set to appear on The Adam Friedland Show this week, which should be… something. Lol.

• Is Good Taste A Trap? — The New Yorker

• The $20 Side Dish is Here — Grub Street

  Ouch.

• How to Dress Like JFK Jr. — GQ

  4 ways to replicate the sui generis swagger of the Kennedy clan's oddball menswear icon.

• Keith McNally’s “Words to Use Sparingly (Or Never At All)” — IG

• Parties I Wish I Went To — IG

  This account shares club fliers/posters and gives us a look at what was happening at each. This one, in 1984, was a 70th birthday party for William S. Burroughs at NY’s Limelight attended by Allen Ginsberg, Kurt Vonnegut, and Madonna.

Thanks for reading.

—BK

Bather Modern Trunk

I recently reviewed Bather’s new Modern Trunk for GQ, and TL;DR — it’s the short of the summer. Founder Kyle Kaminsky told me Bather’s are usually known for their bold colours and patterns cut from the same fabric, but this trunk marks their first real move into new materials. Keep an eye on Bather — there’s plenty more fun stuff on the way. In the meantime, do yourself a favour and pick up a pair.

9 More Pairs of Shorts To Get You Through This Heat Wave

SCENES.NYC Ribbon Team Shorts

Scenes is the upstart label from NY creative (and all-around homie) Lucas Capozzi-Shanks. Born as an IG moodboard a few years back under the handle @tensclub, Lu has since levelled up, turning nostalgia into some of the most dialled-in American soccer gear going. Case in point: these shorts inspired by the Umbro style we all used to wear in the ‘90s. Bosh!

Libero ‘La Sera’ Cotton Shorts

Adam Appugliesi’s Libero has perfected its own Italian-Canadian-American menswear hybrid. The viral ‘ROMA’ baseball caps have been a hit, but it’s the staples that hit — especially the cotton shorts with their easy elastic waistband. Available in sun-soaked “Viola” and creamy “Pecorino,” they’ll give you Italian summer vibes, even if you’re nowhere near the Amalfi and very much stuck in Etobicoke.

Stussy Court Short

A short-but-not-too-short, sub $100 lightweight nylon pair from Stüssy who pretty much wrote the playbook for easy summer style. They’re unlined too, so if you’re the guy who usually cuts out the mesh, these will save you a step.

Cos Seersucker Drawstring Shorts

I’m a sucker (sorry) for seersucker and an all-navy pair is an especially sharp move. Easier to wear (and a bit more refined) than the usual white-and-blue or grey stripes, Breezy shorts at a solid price.

Patagonia Baggies

Not much to add here — these live in the pantheon of all-time great shorts.

3” SATISFY TechSilk Shorts

3-inch inseam running shorts from France’s Satisfy, made for 10k’s and being shameless.

Goldwin Breathable Active Short

Goldwin’s been at the technical-gear game for over 70 years, and it shows — these shorts are crazy light, super breathable, and cut from a ripstop that can take a beating.

Gramicci G Shorts

Similar to Baggies, these cotton hiking shorts are classic, super comfortable, endlessly versatile, and built to last.

Nike Slam Tennis Shorts

Sometimes white shorts are a move. Make sure to wear white underwear with them.

One more thing…

For SHARP, I recently profiled Canadian content creator and we had a great chat. Nolan’s a perfect example of someone who isn’t shy about his passions, and has managed to build a career around them. You can read it here.

Thanks for reading! — BK

Permanent Press may earn a bit of money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.

Been a while. Big thanks to everyone who’s subscribed to the ’Stack so far through my guide to Canadian clothing brands, and thanks to everyone who commented with their own favourite brands. I’m looking at doing a short interview series with a few of those independent designers for future editions—let me know if that’s something you’d be into. While this newsletter isn’t expressly about Canadian menswear or fashion, per se, I do try to keep a focus on it.

Odds ‘n Ends - A few things since I last sent a letter!

• I’ve been contributing regularly to GQ, rounding up the best of the best in men’s style. You can check it all out here. It’s been a lot of fun. A dream byline for me, honestly.

• Speaking of Canadian brands, I also recently made my debut with NUVO magazine, profiling Eugene Marshall, a Montreal-based designer drawing on his SSENSE background and his grandparents’ uniform dressing habits to build something special with Borden.

• Additionally, I just worked with FASHION on a few pieces. Here I chatted with Bezel watch expert, Isaac Wingold, about how a guy should go about building a watch collection.

• Lastly, I was lucky to have hopped on the horn with Bella Freud recently to talk about her popular new podcast Fashion Neurosis for S Magazine. Read that one here.

Alright—let’s get into it some …

Vancouver Vibez

I was lucky enough to be whisked out to Vancouver last week to cover an event — my first time back in over a decade. I have had a tendency to dunk on the city when given the opportunity, but there’s no denying that it’s stunning and has a lot to offer. Would go back! I was only there for two nights with some work obligations, so this wasn’t a deep dive — but if you find yourself in Van soon, here are a few quick hits worth checking out.

Get up early and run the Stanley Park seawall. So nice I did it twice, back-to-back mornings. The mist, the mountains, the seals in the water, the birds, the cliffs—Vancouverites are lucky to have it, and I know they don’t take it for granted.

Have a Japadog. Veggie pork, fried onions, teriyaki sauce, Japanese mayo, seaweed. A+.

Go check out Haven. I got to check out their (relatively new) space just east of Gastown and chatted with co-founder Arthur and brand manager Nick, who walked me through what they’re working on. In the past I’ve thought of Haven as more of a high-end streetwear store, but after spending some time there and trying on several pieces from their in-house line, I wouldn’t put a label on it. It’s clear they’re just into making thoughtful, well-made menswear, often in natural fabrics like the excellent full-zip sweater I’m wearing below. Big thanks to the guys there for showing me around.

Neighbour is a must. I couldn’t go to Vancouver without stopping in. Saager Dilawri and his wife (who buys for the women’s store) have built one of the best stores in North America. My head was practically spinning when I first stepped inside. Saager was nice enough to give me a tour of what’s new—much of it from Japan, where designers remain absolute sickos for intricate, unique fabrics. Big thank you to Saager as well for the tour.

Hit Joe Forte’s downtown for a martini, some clam chowder, maybe a few oysters. When I’m in a new city, I like to seek out the classics — the spots that haven’t changed much in decades. That usually means strong cocktails, poured by lifer bartenders in ties and vests, and if you’re lucky, like at Joe Forte’s, a live piano player in the corner to round things out.

PSA: Din Tai Fung just opened. The legendary Taiwanese soup dumpling chain, literally just opened their first Canadian location last week and I was able to swing by for a quick Sapporo, cucumber salad, and some Xiao Long Bao. Gorgeous.

Kissa Tanto — Okay, so I was invited for dinner here — but I’d absolutely go back on my own dime. Chef Joel Watanabe serves up brilliant Japanese-Italian fusion that somehow just works, all in a beautifully designed room.

For Vintage, swing by Kamuy Vintage in Gastown where Haiato has a really excellent collection of vintage Polo Ralph Lauren, military, Patagonia, Levi’s, Carhartt and a lot more at fair prices. I picked up a pair of Ralph chinos that are going to be heavy in the rotation this summer.

Quick shoutout to The Black Frog — Vancouver’s unofficial Edmonton Oilers HQ. I posted up at the bar for Game 5 between two die-hard Oilers fans and it was a highlight. Special nod to the one legend who was ordering double vanilla vodka and Diet Cokes. Absolutely unhinged drink order.

Some Things I Like— May ‘25

Now that spring’s officially here, I figured I’d fire off a quick roundup of what I’m into at the moment. I’m aiming to pair things back, keep things simple heading into summer — and I think that comes through here

Haven’s SS25 collection —  Vancouver’s Haven has been quietly levelling up their in-house label, and as mentioned above, I got a close-up look at the newest stuff. I left with the Japanese Apex twill Helix pant, which fit like a dream. I love the pleats. A nod to tailoring. In fact, they’ve made a matching jacket that was equally smart. A suit for guys who don’t need to wear one.

Black Boat Shoes — Dig out your Vampire Weekend records because it’s fair to say boat shoes are back? Whatever the verdict, my WASP-y ass is ready. I’m particularly drawn to Morjas’ all-black take, which, although still pricey, will give you the look of that buzzy Saman Amel shoe from last year without nuking your savings. There’s still something undeniably right about a classic Sperry, too.

Carter Young SS25 — The London-by-way-of-Detroit designer is seriously on one right now. There’s a distinctly Midwestern sensibility running through the collection with a European finish that hits just right for me. Especially into this “western” shirt.

Mfpen Holiday Shirts — Just a solid shirt, cropped enough, boxy enough. Made from nice poplin cotton.

KOTN - As mentioned in my Canadian guide, KOTN has long been a reliable source for solid basics — and now, it looks like they’re stepping things up. Their new technical collection, Tefnut, is genuinely intriguing, and these fatigue pants in particular have really caught my eye.

Cos Linen Pants — We’re still a few weeks out from true linen weather, but I swung by COS the other day (still one of the few decent IRL options in Canada for mid-range clothes that actually look cool) and spotted a pair of beautifully cut black linen trousers. They also come in khaki and navy, but there’s something especially sharp — and a little unexpected — about black linen in the summer.

Vans — Just some regular Vans Authentics. Get them, beat them up, remember why they’re so good.

Graydon Carter’s When the Going Was Good — Just finished the memoir by former Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter and can’t recommend it enough if you’re even remotely interested in media or magazines. It’s a fascinating account of how a kid from Ottawam, who once worked the railroads of Western Canada, made it to the top of New York media — and seems to have done it the right way, all while being a family man. He’s shot up on my list of great Canadians, for sure. Lots of stories about wild expense accounts and flying on the Concorde. The going was definitely good. Next up, and somewhat related: Keith McNally’s memoir. Will report back on that one.

Thanks for reading. See you next time.

—BK

Permanent Press may earn a bit of money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.

If there’s one thing we can thank Trump for, it’s that his latest round of tariff threats has finally given English Canada something to agree on.

With these 25% tariffs delayed but still looming, Canadian brands and retailers could soon be facing higher costs on U.S.-sourced goods—everything from cotton and leather to finished products. That means brands will have to rethink sourcing, adjust prices, or absorb the hit. It’s a reminder that where we shop matters—not just for national pride, but for keeping production, jobs, and craftsmanship alive at home.

Retailers are already exploring alternative supply chains. Take KOTN, for example—they produce some rugby shirts in Canada but source cotton from North Carolina. If tariffs kick in, they may have to rethink that.

As costs rise, expect brands to be more upfront about where their products come from and why prices are what they are—something more consumers are starting to care about.

We’re already seeing some opportunism, too. Roots recently took to LinkedIn to pat itself on the back for being Canadian-owned, operated, and incorporated. Which is great. However, only select products are actually made in Canada (more on that below).

Anywho, American tariffs aside, the takeaway is simple: shop local when you can. Support independent brands and retailers that align with your values. Maybe that means buying 100% Canadian-made, or maybe you’re fine with a brand that employs Canadians but manufactures abroad. Either way, it’s worth thinking about what matters to you.

Below, a long—but not exhaustive—list of Canadian-owned clothing brands. (With a couple of skincare brands I like for good measure.)

The Small Independents

Smaller-scale operations, often founder-led, with short production runs and/or local manufacturing.

Body of Work — Shoutout to Dwayne and Brittney, who have been crafting world-class, Canadian-made sportswear since 2020. Working closely with family-owned fabric mills and factories in Ontario, they source premium fabrics from Japan but cut and sew everything in Toronto. Each piece is handmade by skilled craftspeople—slow fashion at its finest.

Canadian Sweater Company — Artisan makers of traditional Cowichan sweaters since 1977—though, oddly enough, I first came across them at a menswear shop in Paris.

Ciele Athletics — A Montreal-based premium running brand, best known for its cult-favourite running hats and now expanding into apparel. Manufacturing details are unclear, but the brand has built a strong following among runners.

Colin Meredith — Colin is a super talented technical designer out of Vancouver who I mostly know via some mutuals from back in our Montreal days. He’s worked for some of the biggest outdoor and technical brands in the game but it’s been sick to watch his namesake brand grow. Most of his production happens overseas, allowing him to experiment with unique cuts, materials, and construction techniques.

Ecole de Pensée — Marc, William, and Julien over in Montreal are reworking classic tailoring with unexpected twists, made with the help of European craftsmen. After winning CAFA’s Menswear Brand of the Year in 2023, they’ve started gaining a cult following beyond Montreal, with several notable European retailers picking them up.

F. Miller — Not menswear but skincare! Toronto’s Fran Miller launched her minimalist skincare line in 2014 and has since grown it into a curated collection of ethically sourced, environmentally conscious essentials. The toning mist rocks.

Henry’s — Toronto’s Keith Henry handcrafts every pair of trousers himself, earning a reputation for his bold, oversized jeans inspired by vintage military and workwear silhouettes. His dedication to the craft hasn’t gone unnoticed—he even landed a collaboration with Engineered Garments.

James Coward — Vancouver’s James Coward is on the brink of blowing up. Known for understated modern tailoring with workwear influences, using premium fabrics in small runs that are made in Canada. I’m excited to see where they go next.

Kluane Mountaineering — These made-to-order down coats from a small studio in Edmonton are handmade form 100% Canadian duck down. They’ve gained a bit of a cult followed and just showed in Paris.

Latre — This Toronto Junction boutique started out specializing in vintage military and French workwear but has since expanded into small-batch knits and upcycled trousers, putting its own spin on timeless classics.

Libero — It’s been great to watch Toronto’s Adam Appugliesi grow his brand—from everything being handmade to order by his nonna to expanding the range and landing at Uncle Otis and Canoe Club. It’s still a family affair, with his charming, clever campaigns often starring his very cinematic father. His famous ‘Le Mans’ jacket has been worn by the likes of Steph Curry and Kit Harrington.

Margin — More Toronto-based skincare! Drew Stevens launched Margin in 2020, focusing on clean, effective formulas with a modern aesthetic. The packaging—featuring contemporary art and photography—changes periodically, keeping things fresh. Big fan of the moisturizer.

MTN Head aka Muttonhead — Canadian-owned makers of unisex basics (fleeces, tees, etc) with 90% of their product made in Toronto.

Norda — A high-performance trail running brand, Canadian-owned, designed, and headquartered in Montreal, with production primarily in Portugal.

Ostrya — Montreal-based technical mountaineering gear with a more playful approach approach.

Outclass — A Toronto-based brand that nails elevated everyday menswear with a focus on quality, durability, and timeless design. Made entirely in Canada.

Province of Canada — Canadian-owned and with the aim to produce every product in Canada, right down to locally sourced materials. Known for their sweatshirts that are knit and sewn in Toronto.

Raised by Wolves — Since 2008, Ottawa-based the menswear brand has been blending technical outerwear with a streetwear edge and a strong Canadian identity. A mix of local and overseas production.

Rosa Rugosa — Matty Matheson has his hands in just about everything these days. Between opening restaurants and making Emmy-winning TV, he's also launched a utilitarian clothing brand—made just a few blocks from where I type this in Toronto’s Parkdale neighbourhood.

Spencer Badu — Toronto-based Canadian Menswear Designer of the Year 2024 gives us a modern take on minimalism with a subversive edge and genderless silhouettes. 90% of the pieces are made in Canada.

Wanze — Founded by Wanze Song, this Toronto brand mixes classic tailoring with modern silhouettes, quality fabrics and sharp attention to detail. Made in Canada.

Wynona — Upstart Toronto-based tailoring brand inspired by old Hollywood and films like Purple Noon with sharp MTM tailoring as well as smart RTW pieces made by craftspeople overseas. Book an appointment with them!

Medium-Sized Players (Cult Followings & Growing Businesses)

Canadian-owned and operated labels with strong brand recognition, and growing international reach with production either entirely in Canada, entirely overseas or a mix of the two.

Bather — The homie Kyle is making some of the best swim shorts (and other vacationwear) around. All the trunks are made in Canada with some other garments made in Portugal.

Dime — What started as a Montreal skate crew turned into one of Canada’s most recognizable streetwear brands. Known for its laid-back graphics, premium cuts, and playful irreverence. While production is mostly international, the brand stays rooted in Montreal’s skate scene.

Haven — Haven is one of Canada’s top multi-brand retailers, with locations in Toronto and Vancouver, carrying high-end Japanese labels like Needles, Neighborhood, and Visvim, alongside technical brands like Stone Island and Acronym. But their in-house line is where they truly shine—elevated, military-inspired menswear with premium materials and a technical edge working closely with manufacturing facilities in Canada and Japan. It’s so good, that they even showed at Paris Fashion Week a couple weeks back.

KOTN — Canadian-owned. Their Egyptian cotton tees and hoodies are responsibly sourced, and while they mainly produce in Egypt and Portugal, some products like the rugby shirts are Made in Canada.

Naked & Famous Denim — OG Canadian raw denim brand, still doing it right with Japanese denim cut, sewn, and made in Montreal.

Quartz Co. —A Quebec-based outerwear brand specializing in premium down jackets designed for extreme weather. They craft their parkas with sustainably sourced materials. Winter coats are made in Quebec with other products made overseas.

Spier & Mackay — One of the best bang-for-your-buck tailoring brands, offering sharp, well-made suits, shirts, and outerwear at prices that rival Suit Supply—just with better taste. Often work with fantastic fabric mills such as Abraham Moon. Give them a go!

Heritage Brands (Iconic & Longstanding Companies)

Legacy brands that have been part of Canadian culture for decades, known for craftsmanship, tradition, and signature products.

Alberta Boot Company — Canadian-owned and made in Calgary, crafting top-tier cowboy boots with serious attention to detail. Should honestly have the wider fame of some Texas-based brands.

Jack Victor — A third-generation, Canadian-owned tailoring brand, crafting high-quality suits, sport coats, and trousers since 1913. Based in Montreal it has kept all production in Canada.

Kanuk — If you visit Montreal, you’ll quickly notice that everyone over a certain age is proudly sporting a Kanuk parka. The brand still offers its classic, time-tested styles, but a recent refresh has brought in modern designs and a new audience. Every coat is still made in Quebec. Correction: It seems that very recently new ownership moved production to China. More info here.

Pajar — Since 1963, Pajar has been making winter boots in their Montreal factory. Some styles are made elsewhere but the Heritage collection is Montreal-made.

Roots — This is an interesting one. In October 2015, American Investment Firm Searchlight Capital Partners LP acquired a majority stake in Roots, with a minority stake still held by its founders. BUT then it went public on the TSX, shifting ownership back to Canadian (and global) stakeholders. It also still employs something like 2,000 employees and makes some product in Canada including its classic Salt & Pepper sweatpants. The varsity jackets and leather bags are also still made in Toronto.

Samuelsohn — Canadian-owned since 1923, Samuelsohn crafts every suit in Montreal, where skilled artisans ensure exceptional tailoring, premium fabrics, and meticulous construction.

Smithbilt Hats — Canada’s answer to the Stetson. Canadian cowboy heritage, Smithbilt has been handcrafting hats in Calgary since 1919. They continue to make high-quality felt hats for ranchers, rodeo riders, and fake cowboys like me.

Stanfield’s — Everyone and their dad has owned a pair of Stanfield long johns at some point in their lives. A true Canadian heritage brand, Stanfield’s has been making thermal underwear, base layers, and knitwear in Nova Scotia since 1856. It remains family-owned and is now in its fifth generation. Not everything they make is made in Canada but they’ve curated a shop of those products here.

The Great Canadian Sox Shop — This store sells a variety of sock brands, a handful made in Canada, but their co-owned main brand J.B. Fields is the oldest sock brand in the country and was originally founded to supply the logging industry.

Tilley — Since 1980. Made its name with iconic adventure hats but has since expanded into sturdy outdoor apparel. Owned and headquartered in Toronto. Production is mostly overseas but they make a handful of products like their classic T3 hiking hat in Canada.

The Big Boys

Recognizable names, often with several retail stores, strong international sales, and/or large-scale operations.

Herschel Supply Co.— Bags and accessories brand based in Vancouver but named after a small town in Saskatchewan. Production is mostly overseas.

OVO — It pains me to give Drake any kind of credit but his brand OVO actually makes a decent amount of product in Canada. Colour me shocked.

Reigning Champ — Reigning Champ was founded in Canada but sold to Vancouver-based Aritzia a few years back, which is technically Canadian as its publically traded on the Toronto Stock Exchange (meaning its ownership is primarily Canadian shareholders). Recently, RC has begun moving some of its manufacturing out of Canada. Make sure to check each style to see if it’s made in Canada if that’s important to you.

THE GIANTS

The brands that dominate retail and operate on a global scale — traded publicly.

Canada Goose — Canada Goose had a majority stake purchased by Bain Capital in 2013 with the minority to the Canadian founders and owners but is now publically traded on the TSX and the NYSE so it has international shareholders. However, according to a report available on their website, Canada Goose made 75% of products in Canada as of 2023. All down-filled jackets are made in Canada, but other products may be manufactured overseas.

Lululemon — Canadian founded and headquartered in Canada (although it is incorporated in tax-friendly Delaware) so it is Canadian in spirit and leadership but is legally structured out of the U.S. Production, however, is firmly based overseas but nothing out of the U.S.

NOT CANADIAN-OWNED AT ALL

Check the fine print!

Arc’teryx/Veilance— So ArcArc'teryx, makers of some of the best technical outerwear out there, is actually owned by Finnish conglomerate Amer Sports Oyj, which if you dig deeper is owned by a Chinese company (which is listed on the NYSE). Most of the brand’s production happens overseas, but their Arc’One facility produces 5% of their product including Veilance.

Frank And Oak — Canadian/Montreal success story fell on hard times and was sold to Americans in 2020.

Hudson’s Bay Company — American-owned. Ooooold news but a good reminder.

MEC – Sadly, the beloved Mountain Equipment Co-Op became Mountain Equipment Company in 2020 when it was bought by Kingswood Capital Management, an American private equity firm. It’s rumoured to be up for sale again.

Sorel — What’s more Canadian than Sorel winter boots? Well, many things actually because after they went bankrupt years ago they were bought by Columbia Sportswear.

The Multi-Brand Retailers

Finally, I couldn’t wrap this up without shouting out some of the best multi-brand shops and retailers in Canada.

Harry Rosen — Shoutout my former employer. Still Canadian-owned after 70 years, this iconic purveyor of luxury menswear (ZENGA, Brunello Cucinelli, Armani, etc.) is now under the stewardship of Harry’s grandson Ian.

Lost & Found — Probably my favourite shop in Toronto. They seem to really be levelling up since they moved into new digs a couple years back and have always carried a wide selection of Alden, Engineered Garments, The Real McCoys and do their best to stock local designers.

Neighbour — Nobody doing it like Vancouver’s Neighbour right now. Peep my chat with owner Saager, about their latest buy of knitwear. Has a small selection of in-house knitwear and tees. Have expanded to a womenswear store and a home goods shop.

Rooney — I spent a lot of time browsing and not buying anything here when I was a poor Montreal student. Great assortment from brands like Mfpen, Lemaire, Stussy along with a strong selection of womenswear.

Simon’s — A Quebec City-based, family-owned retailer that’s been a staple in Canadian fashion since 1840. Still Canadian-owned, the brand offers a mix of in-house labels and international designers, with some production still happening in Canada, particularly in its private label.

SSENSE — Ok duh but the e-comm giant is still privately owned and based in Montreal. But they could be in trouble as Trump has rescinded the de minimus exception for packages of under $800. When an American orders that $960 Rier fleece, they’re going over the threshold and additional import taxes apply. It might make regular shoppers think twice.

Stomping Ground —One of Ottawa’s best independent boutiques, Stomping Ground has a good mix of modern menswear and accessories like Drake’s, Maximum Henry and Carhartt WIP but also a strong curation of Canadian brands.

Uncle Otis — A Toronto menswear institution since 1991 (!!!), Uncle Otis has a sharp curation of contemporary and heritage brands like Orslow, Porter, Universal Works and more.

Sound off in the comments if you have any other suggestions!

Last thing — a huge thank you to my very talented pal Albert Nguyen for designing my new masthead up top!

Leaving you with a meme for the heads. Thanks for reading.

Permanent Press may earn a bit of money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.

Put on a Sweater

It’s difficult to survive winter without a good supply of hefty sweaters. Of course, sweaters and knitwear are about utility, but if you’re a fake email job urbanite, it might be more about what your sweaters says about you. Are you a a rugged cable-knit guy, or a quiet luxury minimalist in a fine gauge sweater or are you going for ‘trad’ in a fair isle sweater that wouldn’t be out of place in a Wes Anderson picture. The truth is, we’re probably all of them at different times.

For the most part, it’s difficult to find a new, quality sweater that’s not mostly polyester for under $100 so these skew to a more mid-price range and up.

And so, here are the sweaters a man needs, if needs is the word, which it might not be.

Once again, I’ve linked to independent Canadian shops wherever possible.

Shetland Crewneck Sweaters

For crewneck sweaters, a Shetland is hard to beat. I’ve got three already and counting. Equal parts rugged and classic, they’re an Ivy staple you don’t have to be too precious about. If you’re building your collection, start with a neutral like grey or navy for maximum versatility, then throw in a bold colour to keep things interesting.

> Jamieson of Shetland Sweaters > I discovered Jamieson’s a couple of years ago at Beige Habillier in Paris (one of the city’s absolute best menswear stores!) and immediately wanted to pick up several colours. Nothing fancy, just quality Shetland wool in a classic shape in any colour you could want! You can get them there or on END at a really good price. I recommend the brushed styles which are much softer. — $195 CAD
> Lost & Found Shaggy Sweater > The lads over at L&F launched their in-house Shetland last fall and I immediately scooped up a grey one that’s one of the best sweaters I own. Will take you from now through to brisk spring evenings. — $250 CAD
> Neighbour Shetland Sweater > Neighbour is also doing their thing, so see what calls out to you, colour-wise. — $205 CAD
> James Coward Brae Sweater > My pal Nikki put me on to this one. Canadian brand out of Vancouver, knit in England. — $235 CAD
>O’Connell’s Shetland Sweaters > Special shoutout to O’Connell’s in Buffalo which is famous for its Shetlands. I’m going to need to do a full post dedicated to this place in the future. It’s a must-visit if you’re ever in Buffalo. — Starting at $195 USD

Crewnecks (Non-Shetland)

Sometimes you need a crewneck that’s not a Shetland.

>LL Bean Commando Sweater > LL Bean is making 100% Merino sweaters for under $200, which is great! I dig this “Commando” sweater; Daniel Craig wore something similar to this in the last Bond flick. — $149 CAD
> Patagonia Recycled Cashmere Crewneck > Patagonia! Recycled! Cashmere! $249 CAD
>Stone Island Crewneck Sweater > Honestly I’m fucking with Stone Island again; it’s sort of undeniable! I’m partial to taking the patch off. $653

Fine-Gauge Sweaters

Sometimes a guy needs something finer and thinner that will layer tailoring and other outer layers well. For this, some fine-gauge wool or cashmere is the way to go.

>Uniqlo Cashmere Crewneck Sweater > Again, Uniqlo can deliver the goods at a price that will allow you to pick up a few colours. — $129 CAD
> John Smedley Hatfield Sweater > If you want to invest a little more, and want something finer you can’t go wrong with John Smedley. The sweaters are made in England and it’s been around since 1784. Michel Brisson in Montreal had a ton of colours. — $375 CAD

Cardigans

Cardigans are a winter powerhouse and yet still sort of seem underrated?

>Noah Crewneck Cardigan> This full-button crew neck style has recently become quite popular with men and is sort of based on a classic Agnes B women’s cardigan. Noah has a great Shetland one this season. makes a nice one. — $559 CAD
>Anglo-Italian Lambswool Cardigan > Everything Anglo-Italian does is perfect in my book. Not too slim-fitting, not too chunky, Italian-made, horn buttons. — $380 CAD
>Kaptain Sunshine Roya Alpaca Cardigan > Equally simple in a beautiful Alpaca. Put this in your wishlist and see if it goes on sale.— $634 CAD
>Drake’s Lambswool Sleeveless Cardigan > A sleeveless cardigan is a great way to layer without the bulk if you want to get your tenured professor look on this winter. — $400 CAD

V-Neck Sweaters

V-neck tees have gone the way of American Apparel but V-neck sweaters are another story. In my opinion, they shine brightest when paired with just a crewneck T-shirt underneath—(a pastel tee under a neutral sweater is a nice switch-up from white). The catch with most V-necks is their often timid, shallow cut. I find myself wanting more V in my V-neck. Here are a few that go a little deeper.

>Casatlantic Meknes V-Neck Wool Sweater > Ideal V-neck here, nautically inspired with British wool and a cropped fit. — $270 CAD
>J.Crew Merino Wool V-Neck Sweater > OK not the deepest V but simple, substantial and the price is right. —$144 USD
>P.Johnson Moss Openers Sweater — This from Aussie brand P.Johnson has a few things going for it: a deep enough V-neck with a nice wide rib and a relaxed fit. $$249 USD

Turtlenecks

A turtleneck does it all, in a way. It’s simple, versatile and sort of announces that you know what you’re doing, even if you really don’t.

>Uniqlo Ultrawarm Cotton Turtleneck > Start with something basic and lightweight for maximum versatility. I have a couple of these cotton Uniqlo babies and they’re a great entry point into pulling off the turtleneck look. — $30 CAD
>John Smedley ExtraFine Merino Wool Sweater > If you want to splash out a bit you can upgrade to a thin Merino wool. — $400 CAD
> GAP Donelgal Turtleneck > Or you can go a bit chunkier and make the turtleneck itself the focal point. — $89 CAD
>Andersen-Andersen Navy Turtleneck > Full wool and navy-inspired. LFG. — $525 CAD

Full-Zips

GQ recently proclaimed that full-zip hoodies are back, baby! So let’s say the same applies to knitted sweaters, which are out there in abundance at the moment. A shawl collar is a bit too grandad, but for me, these are just on the right side of dad.

>Frizmworks Wool Deck Zip-Up Cardigan Great sweater from S. Korea’s Frizmworks— CAD 320
>Wynona Studio Jacques Cardigan > Lovely stuff from upstart Toronto brand Wynona Studio.— $410
>And Daughter Rib Zip Jacket > This is a new brand to me as it seems they’ve just entered into menswear (their paid ads found me!) but all the sweaters are made in Scotland with beautiful yarn. The silhouettes, details, and colours look to be super on-point as well. I’m hoping they go on sale at some point. — $895 CAD
>Studio Nicholson Knit Jacket > Woof! —$930 CAD

Cable-Knits a.k.a. Aran Knits a.k.a. Fisherman’s Sweaters

This is more on the nice-to-have side of the scale but an all-wool fisherman’s sweater is still a pretty timeless style. Oh, it’s itchy? Grow Up! These will soften over time and will last for years. If you opt for a blend of wool and synthetic, it will start to sag and lose its shape and you’ll be back to buying a new one next year.

>KOTN Fisherman Sweater > For the Billy Crystal in When Harry Met Sally look, KOTN is doing one right now that’s 100% lambswool for less than two bills. More modern and closer to the body than something you’d find at the thrift. — $198
>Sunspel Cable Jumper > You can find more luxe styles like this one from Sunspel made from soft Merino wool. — $585 CAD
>Allevol x Inverallan Cable Knit Sweater > If you want to go up a notch further, something like this Allevol x Inverallan sweater comes in a cool dyed black colour that will fade like jeans over time. It’s handmade in Scotland. Aye. — $625 CAD

Statement Sweater

Let’s skip the ugly Christmas sweaters this year. They’re itchy, they’re cheap, they’re unsustainable — a better idea is just something daring that you can wear well past December 25th. Here’s a few.

>Howlin’ Fire in the Mind Navy Sweater > Based in Antwerp but made in Scotland (“howlin’” is Scottish slang for smelly, apparently), this is a brand that’s really mastered the art of bringing quality to outrageous design. — $565 CAD
>Our Legacy Evening Argyle Polo > Our Legacy strikes again, combining an eye-catching pattern, with an ‘evening polo’ design. —$595
>Chamula for Drake’s Fair Isle Sweater > Chamula is known for its hand-made-and-dyed-in-Mexico knitwear. For Drake’s, they’ve given us their take on a Fair Isle sweater. A banger.

Well Linked

Crowdfunding and private chats: menswear label Percival’s unusual loyalty tactics — Percival’s loyalty program consists in part, of being added to a WhatsApp group and getting the inside track on sales and other perks. As somebody who used to work for a venture-backed clothing brand, the pressure for sales is constant, but you can’t forget to dance with the ones who brung ya in a real way. (FT)
Kobbie Mainoo & Cole Palmer are just getting started — Obsessed with the Burberry suits the lads are wearing in this. (GQ UK)
Has Fashion’s Convergence With Sports Gone Too Far? (BoF)
From Raw Denim to Natural Wine — The founder of APC made some natural wine. (NYT)
Can Lululemon win men over? — I thought it already had? I know a few regular dudes who swear by the stretchy chinos. (FT)
Why Is UNIQLO the Anti-Fast Fashion Fast Fashion Brand? (High Snobiety)

Thanks for reading

BK

Why Is Vintage Clothing So Popular? Menswear Expert Aaron Levine Answers

SHARP asked me to investigate the rise of vintage clothing in the modern wardrobe, so I reached out to menswear whisperer Aaron Levine. With stints at Abercrombie & Fitch, Madewell, ALD, and a pretty sizable if still niche presence on IG Aaron’s not exactly an influencer—but he’s an influential figure in menswear circles and he knows what he’s talking about. The final piece ended up being sort of a profile. Enjoy. Read it here

Body of Work at Haven

On Friday, I swung by the opening reception for Body of Work’s pop-up store at Haven. I wanted to shout them out here because it was the first time I had really seen the brand up close and I was super impressed by it! On display, they had the latest from their A/W24 collection including pieces like organic cotton French terry full-zip sweaters, sweatpants and hoodies, along with boxy long-sleeve polos and T-shirts. Founders Dwayne and Brittney have worked to make something that is rooted in quality and as such, they produce everything locally in Canada (we know knitwear here!).

Just last week, I was ready to list a couple of hoodies on Grailed, thinking hoodies just weren’t for me these days. Then I tried on their hoodie and realized—it’s not hoodies; it’s the ones I own that aren’t right. BoW’s version has a perfect weight, super-soft cotton, a flattering cut and crucially is totally unbranded. Go check them out at Haven.

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11 of the best overcoats you can buy this year

It’s been warm and rainy so far, but soon we’ll be reaching for heavier layers, and when it comes to the winter season, there’s arguably no piece more important in your wardrobe than an overcoat.

We’ve hit peak GORPcore, so I know you’ve already got your North Face ready for when it gets really nasty. But sometimes, you need something more formal to make a statement when you’re out and about (at the same time a good overcoat will also spruce up the morning dog walk).

Luckily, designers are making some really interesting, dynamic coats, moving away from shorter, fitted styles (think J.Crew in 2012). Below you’ll find a lot of oversized (but not shapeless) Balmacaan styles — nothing overly structured or lawyerly.

A heads-up: overcoats aren’t typically cheap (there’s a lot of wool involved), but if one catches your eye, it’s an investment that will last a long time.

I’ve linked to Canadian shops wherever possible, with the list organized from most to least pricey.

Drake’s Raglan Herringbone Overcoat

I’m a big Drake’s guy. Not everything they do is for me and the prices have skyrocketed in recent years (what hasn’t?) but for me, the Balmacaan overcoats are some of their best work. When you slip one of these on you immediately feel the weight (a good thing). They have a sturdy collar, perfectly placed pockets, a dramatic back vent, and a beautiful A-line silhouette that drapes away from the body. I finally took the plunge last year, and I couldn’t recommend it more—it’s a piece I’ll wear for years and years. —$2,255 CAD

Ecole de Pensée Dogtooth Wool Overcoat

The lads at Ecole de Pensée in Montreal are always great at taking classic styles and slightly turning them on their head. This Italian wool overcoat with a large houndstooth pattern is a great example. — $1,999 CAD

Lemaire Wrap Coat

You can see how expressive this coat is just from the photo here. And the rich chocolate brown? Get outta here! — $1,925 CAD

Kaptain Sunshine Umbrella Coat

Another take on the classic Balmacaan from Japan’s Kaptain Sunshine has it all, a sturdy collar, raglan sleeves and a hearty Donegal tweed. Beauty. — $1,895

Berg & Berg DB Coat

Although they have great raglan options coming soon, if you need something more formal, Sweden’s Berg & Berg has a great structured DB for a decent price. They usually have good sales further into the season if you can hold off. —$1,884

Our Legacy Collapse Car Coat

Really good. Beautiful construction that ends at the calf, probably the longest coat on this list. LVMH just took a minority stake in OL so now’s the time to buy before they jack up the price and crank down the quality. —$1,175 CAD

Mfpen Recycled Wool Accession Coat

Mfpen’s thing is taking beautiful deadstock fabrics and using them to produce remarkable pieces. Love the check pattern and it also features a lovely A-frame drape. A bit shorter than I would personally prefer these days but beautiful nonetheless —$975 CAD

Sage de Cret Balmacaan Coat

Known for their military/workwear vibes, Japa’s Sage de Cret offers up a classic Balmacaan style in soft melton wool that’s also fully lined. —$975 CAD

Spier & MacKay Gun Check Balmacaan

Spier & Mackay are always going to offer value. This coat is made from heavyweight wool tweed from famed English mill Abraham Moon and they’re giving it to you for under $800, which is rare for the quality of wool you’re getting. — $749 CA

COS Double-Faced Wool Coat

I’m personally trying to wear more black and a simple overcoat is a good place to start. As far as the mall brands go, COS consistently delivers the goods. It’s simple but cool enough and the wool blend brings the price down a bit but will still keep a guy warm. —Approx $522 CAD

Uniqlo: C Double Faced Coat

A nice overcoat under $200 is hard to come by but as usual, Uniqlo is here for us. This coat from Uniqlo’s capsule from their new CD Clare Waight Keller is simple but effective. — $179 CA

Some Links

From the Gap to Abercrombie, mall brands have staged their comeback and are going viral (The Globe & Mail) — Glad the Giant Fit chinos worked for Josh, they were indeed too giant for me!

The New Status Move: Designer Logos So Subtle They’re Barely There (WSJ) — Overdue.

Reimagining How to Dress a Pope (NYT) — Conclave was fine; costumes were great.

Thanks for reading.

—BK

For the Yankees, Cotton is King

"On a cold, drizzly night in the Bronx, the Yankees finally got a World Series win, powered by an Anthony Volpe grand slam and some solid pitching—but maybe it was the cotton turtlenecks?

As reported by The New York Times and other outlets, the Yankees discovered a stash of 20-year-old cotton turtlenecks by Majestic, and the team decided to wear them in place of the modern synthetics Nike supplies as MLB’s official sponsor.

To me, this throwback move speaks to a collective obsession with vintage and the belief that 'older is better'—especially as so much around us, including product quality, seems to be on the decline. Even the Yankees, one of the world’s most famous sports teams, seem to recognize that 'vintage' isn’t just a look; it’s a marker of quality. Even Aaron Judge said: “We had to go old school, man. That’s when it was made with some quality.”

Fans, athletes, and fashion people alike are drawn to well-made clothing in natural fabrics, while brands like Nike and Fanatics started the season by rolling out what can only be described as some of the cheapest, most uninspired slop to date. Have you seen a team shop these days? Can I interest you in an LA Dodgers button-down from the Darius Rucker collection? It’s no wonder vintage pieces resonate. They don’t just stand out; they last.

Burberry’s Tea Time

You may have seen Burberry’s recent campaign featuring Olivia Colman, Barry Keoghan, Cara Delevingne, and footballers Eberechi Eze and Cole Palmer. The campaign was charming and well-executed, but what truly caught my eye was the brand’s short IG Reels of these stars at the craft services table, showing us how they make their perfect cup of tea.

It’s very watchable, but also, it’s an example of the continuing trend of brands using food in their marketing (something Burberry has done before with a pop-up at Norman’s cafe). It also connects to their British heritage; what’s more British than a cup of tea? This heritage is something they’re really honing in on as they’ve continued to struggle.

They’re also fun, not overly serious and feature some of that dry British humour—also, the clothes look good!

My favourite was the Reel with Queen Olivia Colman.

Maybe they were inspired by this classic video.

Some Clothes

GAP ‘90s Loose Khakis — Similar to the Wranglers I shared last time, I sort of stumbled onto these chinos from Gap. They’re pretty much perfect if you’re looking to get away from your thigh-strangling chinos. The fit is surprisingly perfect and the fabric is surprisingly plush with a very slight peachy feel. Have heard good things about the ‘90s jeans as well. The khaki colour is on sale for $35 CAD right now.

Lost & Found Shaggy Sweater — I bought one of these last year and wore the hell out of it well into the spring and it’s back in the rotation this year already. The brushed wool means it’s soft (not itchy like many Shetland sweaters) and has a springy resilience to it. Lots of new colours and styles this year. Highly recommend. $270 CAD

Castatlantic F/W Drop — Sweden’s Casatlantic just dropped their fall collection. Lots of pleats, lots of military-inspired silhouettes and they’ve expanded into more knitwear. Peep this V-neck. Beautiful stuff.

Solovair ‘Gibson’ Derby — As the weather turns, it might be time for a new pair of hard-wearing shoes. Once upon a time, Solovair’s factory produced Doc Martens, and when that partnership ended, they kept making similar styles on the original lasts (or at least that’s how I’ve understood it). With most Doc Martens now made in China, I don’t mind paying a bit more for quality, made-in-the-UK shoes with the Doc look. $199 USD (Still a few sizes here at this Canadian shop for $249 CAD)

Tekla x Auralee — New collection inspired by the Japanese onsen. Pretty stoked on this one as a guy who only buys Tekla 70% off on the SSENSE sale.

It’s about that time of year - might do a round-up of coats or boots or something like that next week. What do we reckon?

Some Links

Tunnel Fits are Over (GQ) — GQ has been backtracking on a lot of trends they once co-signed—chore jackets, gorpcore—but I’m on board with this latest pivot. The jock mindset demands being the best at everything, including out-dressing their peers, which has resulted in some questionable outfits in the NBA and NFL. At this point, you almost have to respect NHL players for having zero swag.

How Do Trends Happen? (Vogue Business) — ‘Do designers talk to each other to show similar things, or do fashion editors whisper in their ears and tell them what to do?’
Jonathan Anderson — ‘No other fashion designer today blurs the lines between the avant-garde and the commercial as imaginatively, or ruthlessly, as Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of Loewe.’ (T Mag)

New York Was a Shopping Town. Is It Again? (NYT) — A roundup of the newest stores in NYC.

New York Menswear is Back! (FT) —The FT also ran a piece about NY's shopping renaissance.

He Knows What Men Want to Buy — (NYT) Speaking of which, there’s been plenty of buzz about Ven. Space in Carroll Gardens. The owner, a veteran of e-commerce retail, wanted a small shop close to home with just a couple of employees—and so far, he’s killing it. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it?

Thanks for reading.

—BK

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First, please bear with me as I figure this out. I tend to overthink things so I figured the first step doesn’t need to be perfect — it just has to happen.

We’ll keep things pretty loose and fun, but generally, I’ll be posting about menswear.

I spent the first several years of my career working leading copy and editorial at DTC menswear startup in Montreal and later at Canadian luxury menswear emporium Harry Rosen where I attempted to imbue a bit of joie de vive into a 70-year-old brand. I brought Matty Matheson on board (he wore some beautiful suits to some big red carpets), edited the brand’s “magalog”, made some fun social videos, interviewed designers like Officine Générale’s Pierre Mahéo, toured Brunello Cucinelli’s HQ in Solomeo and learned a lot about luxury. And now it’s onto the next thing.

We’ll also see about sharing some stuff around travel, design, and maybe a bit of food and drink? Let me know what you’d like to see from me and we can do this together!

Davide Baroncini, Founder of Ghiaia Cashmere, Believes in Brick & Mortar

A couple of months ago, I spoke with Davide Baroncini of Ghiaia Cashmere for SHARP Magazine. We chatted for two hours and could have talked longer—he’s a very generous and gregarious guy who had plenty of interesting insights on starting a brand, his expertly aspirational use of social media, and why shopping in person isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

I also spoke with Alix Rutsey, former menswear buyer for SSENSE, who onboarded the brand over there. She shared some great insights that, unfortunately, were cut for space in the print edition I may as well share here:

“People want to be like Davide. If you visit his store, he’ll take you on a romantic journey through his products, explaining why each piece is perfect for you. This kind of experience is rare outside of ultra-luxury shopping. He’s offering a service that people aren’t getting elsewhere. He’s genuine, and his products are fun.”

When the pandemic hit everyone jumped to say that IRL shopping was so over, but guys like Davide prove that it’s so back (when done right). I really look forward to stopping by his store the next time I’m in L.A.

Read it here

LIBERO

Need to give a shoutout to Toronto’s Libero, another brand of Italian persuasion, is now being carried in Toronto’s Uncle Otis, the brand’s first Canadian stockist. Founder and friend Adam Appulgliesi hosted a little get-together there on Thursday night and he’s created a really strong little “collection” including the semi-viral ‘ROMA’ cap and the stalwart ‘Le Mans’ jacket. In the brand’s earliest years, Adam’s nonna was literally sewing garments made to order. Great to see him grow and have guys like Kit Harrington, Adam Pally, and Steph Curry rep the brand. Go check it out.

SOME CLOTHES

Wrangler 100% Cotton Regular Fit Jean — I just picked these up for $40 on Amazon and they’re pretty perfect. Well-fitting up top (if you’ve got bigger thighs like me) and a nice, normal straight leg. Fits true to size. $41 CAD

Libero Spaghetti Western Shirt — I need another denim shirt like I need a hole in the head right now or I’d consider picking this up from Libero. Nice sturdy and structured 10oz denim. Works great as an overshirt. $425

Another Aspect Melange Cardigan — Big-time grandpa vibes from Copenhagen’s Another Aspect here. Very nice. $360

Lemaire Wrap Coat — Big coats only! $1,925

Natalino Prince of Wales Jacket — The importance of a toothy sport jacket this time of year can’t be overstated. Wear it over an Oxford, a T-shirt, a western shirt, really whatever you want. A good price as well. $716

Some Links

Is a $910 Fleece Actually Worth It? - Interesting article in the Times about Rier’s $910 (that’s $1255 Canadian pesos) fleece but also upscale fleeces in general that are made, not from petroleum-based microplastics, but actual wool.

Designer watch? I’ll keep my £25 Casio, thanks — For the non-watch guy watch guys.

How ‘Shoe Doping’ Changed Marathon Times Forever — in ways we still don’t fully understand.

There is the Barbican and then there’s everywhere else — Check out Snake/Sami’s thoughts on one of my favourite places.

Until next time…

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