There’s a strange thing happening with clothes.

We have more choice than ever, yet somehow we’re all being encouraged to dress the same.

The same silhouettes. The same “must-have” jean. The same fit appearing on thousands of people at once.

Vintage denim offers something different.

Because the best pair of jeans isn’t necessarily the pair everyone wants.

It’s the pair that looks like it was made for you.

Fit used to be personal

Before stretch denim and endless micro-trends, jeans were relatively simple things.

Cotton. Rivets. Strong seams. A good cut.

They weren’t designed to transform your body into whatever silhouette happened to be fashionable that month.

You found the shape that worked with your body.

And then you wore it.

That’s one of the reasons shopping for vintage denim can be so satisfying. Two pairs with almost identical measurements can feel completely different once they’re on.

The rise might sit perfectly on your waist.

A wider leg might balance your proportions in a way you weren’t expecting.

A men’s pair might fit better than anything from the women’s rail.

The label becomes almost irrelevant.

The mirror tells you more than the size tag ever could.

The best fit might be the one you weren’t looking for

We’ve become very attached to clothing categories.

Women’s. Men’s.

Straight. Mom. Boyfriend. Skinny. Barrel.

But some of the best vintage denim discoveries happen when you ignore all of that.

Try the pair that looks too big.

Roll the hem.

Size up and wear them low.

Try a men’s 501.

Try the cut you’ve spent ten years convinced “doesn’t suit you”.

Vintage encourages experimentation because there isn’t an algorithm quietly telling you what your jeans are supposed to look like.

There’s just you, the denim and the question:

Do I feel good in these?

Good denim gets better because you wear it

And then something else happens.

The jeans start becoming yours.

Real denim changes with the person wearing it.

It softens where your body bends. The colour shifts. Creases appear. Pockets take on the shape of the things you carry.

Eventually, a pair that once belonged to everybody becomes almost impossible to replicate.

That individuality is difficult to manufacture.

Brands can distress denim.

They can add whiskers.

They can fade knees.

They can even recreate repairs.

But they can’t recreate your wear.

Made to last means made to change

We often talk about clothes “lasting” as though the goal is to keep them looking new forever. But perhaps that’s the wrong idea.The most beautiful denim doesn’t stay pristine.

It changes.

It fades.

It softens.

Sometimes it tears.

And then you repair it and keep going.

A good pair of jeans can move through different versions of your wardrobe — worn with trainers one year, boots the next, oversized, belted, cropped, rolled. They don’t need replacing every time fashion changes direction. They just need to still feel like you.

Maybe individuality is the real luxury now

There was a time when luxury meant having something new.

Now, when almost anything can be bought instantly and everyone can see the same trends at the same moment, perhaps the rarer thing is owning something that doesn’t look exactly like everybody else’s.

A pair of jeans with the right fit.

A little wear.

Maybe a repair.

No perfect size on the label.

No need to explain whether they’re currently “in”.

Just something you found, loved and intend to keep.Because the best denim was never really about having the perfect pair. It was about making a pair your own.

When I studied fashion, the dream was simple: work for a designer or an established brand. And that’s exactly what I did. Over the next 15 years, my career took me in different directions, each role teaching me something new. Looking back, I probably should have realised it was meant to be—because somehow, denim always found its way back to me. No matter where my career took me, it was the one constant.

Those 15 years gave me far more than experience. They taught me about product, people, creativity and resilience. Looking back, they were preparing me to build something of my own—I just didn’t know it yet.

It took a global pandemic to make me question everything.

Lockdown changed the way we shopped, the way we worked and, for many of us, the way we thought about what really mattered. It also gave me the push I needed to take a leap of faith that I’d probably been putting off for years.

That’s where PIN Denim began.

It hasn’t been a straight line. In fact, it’s been anything but.

PIN Denim has evolved constantly, shaped by lessons learned, unexpected challenges and more than a few pivots along the way. For the first four years, I built the business alongside a full-time job. Evenings were spent replying to customers, weekends were dedicated to sourcing vintage denim, packing orders, attending pop-ups, and somehow fitting in the endless admin that comes with running a small business.

Building a business has been the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done—but without question, it’s also been the hardest.

It asks more of you than you think you have to give. It tests your patience, your confidence and your resilience. It celebrates you one day and humbles you the next. There are moments of excitement, moments of self-doubt, and countless moments where you wonder if you’re making the right decisions.

But there is also an incredible sense of purpose that comes from building something you truly believe in.

Every person who walks through the studio, every conversation about finding the right fit, every message from someone who feels more confident because they’ve found their pair reminds me why I started.

Building PIN Denim has never been about creating more jeans. It’s about changing the way people feel about buying them.

I wanted to create a space where denim feels welcoming, inclusive and never intimidating. A place where people of all shapes, sizes and ages can discover vintage denim that works for their body—not feel like they have to change themselves to fit the jeans.

That’s why curating a diverse range of sizes is so important to me. Everyone deserves the feeling of finding a pair of jeans that fits well, feels comfortable and gives them confidence.

Because the right pair of jeans doesn’t just change how you look—it changes how you feel.

If there’s one thing this journey has taught me, it’s that building something meaningful rarely follows the path you imagined. It will challenge you, surprise you and humble you in ways you never expected. But if you believe in what you’re building, it’s a journey worth taking.

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When I launched Pin Denim, I already understood denim.

I’d spent years designing it, fitting it and studying what makes a great pair of jeans. I understood fabrication, construction and the details that separate an average pair from an exceptional one.

But working with thousands of pairs of vintage denim—and helping hundreds of women find their pair—taught me something I couldn’t have learnt anywhere else.

It wasn’t just about jeans.

It was about style.

Of course, I’ve continued to learn the technical side. How to spot a great fit. Why measurements matter more than the size on the label. What separates a pair you’ll wear for years from one that sits untouched in your wardrobe.

But the biggest lesson had very little to do with denim.

It was this:

The women with the best style don’t necessarily own the most clothes. They simply know what works for them.

That’s why one of the things I hear most often is:

“I have a wardrobe full of denim... but I hate every pair.”

Or, “None of my jeans fit anymore.”

Or, “I always wear the same pair because they’re the only ones that feel right.”

Despite owning five, ten or even twenty pairs of jeans, so many women still feel like they have nothing to wear.

The instinct is to buy another pair.

But after years of working with vintage denim, I can tell you with confidence—another pair is rarely the answer.

More often than not, the answer is understanding why one pair works, and why the others never did.

Style isn’t built through shopping. It’s built through editing.

When clients come to Pin Denim, they're usually searching for the perfect pair of jeans. The conversation quickly becomes about fit, proportion and understanding what works for their body and lifestyle

But I rarely start by asking what they want to buy.

Instead, I want to understand what they’re already wearing.

Which pair do you reach for without thinking?

Which jeans make you feel most like yourself?

Which ones never leave the hanger, despite how much you wanted them to work?

The answers are always revealing.

More often than not, the perfect pair isn’t missing from someone’s wardrobe—it’s their understanding of why one pair works and another doesn’t.

The women with the strongest sense of style aren’t constantly adding to their wardrobes. They’ve learnt to edit. To recognise what suits their body, their lifestyle and the way they want to feel when they get dressed.

Most of us already own the blueprint for our personal style. It’s just buried beneath years of trend-led purchases, impulse buys and pieces we hoped we’d become.

The best jeans make everything else easier.

People often assume that because I work exclusively with vintage denim, my wardrobe must be overflowing with jeans.

The reality? I own well under ten pairs.

Each one has earned its place.

There’s the relaxed pair I reach for almost every day. A darker wash that instantly feels smarter. And a perfectly worn-in favourite that somehow gets better with every wear.

I don’t believe in owning twenty pairs just for the sake of it.

The magic isn’t in the number of jeans you own—it’s in knowing exactly which pair works for your body, your lifestyle and the rest of your wardrobe.

When you’ve found those few pairs, getting dressed becomes remarkably simple. The jeans stop being the thing you’re trying to figure out, and instead become the foundation that makes everything else in your wardrobe work.

Buy denim for the life you live — not the fantasy version of it.

One of the biggest denim mistakes I see isn’t choosing the wrong wash or the wrong rise.

It’s buying jeans for an imagined version of yourself.

We all have a saved folder full of effortlessly dressed women in perfectly worn-in vintage Levi’s. But the jeans that work for someone else’s lifestyle won’t necessarily work for yours.

Buying a dramatic puddle hem that needs a 5 inch heel when you walk everywhere.

Keeping a pair that’s always a little too tight because you love the idea of them.

Choosing a trend because it’s everywhere, rather than because it suits your body, your wardrobe and the way you actually dress.

The best vintage jeans aren’t the ones that photograph well or tick every trend box. They’re the pair you instinctively reach for on a Tuesday morning.

If you live in trainers, buy jeans that work with trainers. If you spend your weekends in oversized knits and loafers, buy denim that complements that uniform. If you love getting dressed up, find the pair that works just as well with a blazer and heels.

Your denim shouldn’t ask you to become someone else. It should fit seamlessly into the life you already live.

Vintage makes you a better shopper.

One of the reasons I fell in love with vintage denim is that it forces you to slow down.

There’s no adding three sizes to your basket and returning the ones that don’t work. Every pair asks you to pay closer attention.

The fabric.

The rise.

The leg shape.

The wash.

The construction.

The measurements.

You start shopping with intention rather than convenience.

And somewhere along the way, you stop chasing labels and trends, and start understanding what actually suits you.

It’s one of the biggest misconceptions I come across: people place far too much importance on the size stitched into the waistband. With vintage denim, that number often tells you very little.

Decades of wear, washing, shrinkage and alterations mean a tagged size rarely reflects the jean’s true measurements. Add modern vanity sizing into the mix, and it’s no surprise so many people feel confused.

That’s why I always trust a tape measure over a label.

Ironically, once you understand how vintage denim really works, you tend to buy less—but you buy far better.My wardrobe rule.

If something doesn’t work with at least three existing outfits, I don’t buy it.

Simple.

It has to earn its place.

That rule has saved me hundreds of pounds and countless mornings standing in front of my wardrobe feeling uninspired.

The goal was never a bigger denim wardrobe.

It’s a better one.

One where every pair has earned its place.

Where getting dressed feels instinctive, not overwhelming.

Where your jeans fit properly, work with the rest of your wardrobe and make you feel like yourself.

Because when you’ve found the right denim, everything else becomes easier.

You stop second-guessing what to wear. You stop chasing every new trend. You stop buying “just in case” pairs that never quite live up to the promise.

The most stylish women I know rarely own the most clothes—or the most jeans.

They simply know what belongs in their wardrobe, and more importantly, what doesn’t.

That’s the real value of vintage denim.

Not owning more.

Owning better.

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Most people buy denim by focusing on one number: waist size- Waist 32, Waist 34 etc.

It feels straightforward. But here’s the problem: waist size is one of the least reliable numbers in denim.Not just in vintage. In modern jeans too.

Thanks to vanity sizing, many jeans don’t measure anywhere near the size on the label.

A tagged 32 might actually measure 34 inches.
A tagged 34 might measure 37.

Brands learned long ago that customers like buying smaller numbers. So the label became less about measurement and more about psychology.

That means the number on your jeans often tells you very little about how they’ll actually fit.

Once you understand how vintage sizing works and what sizing actually means it’s a lot easier.

A tagged 34 in vintage Levi's might measure closer to 32 inches after decades of wear, washing, shrinkage, and alterations. Shrinkage is often more pronounced in older pairs, but even construction details—like seam allowance, selvedge edges, and how the waistband is measured flat—can slightly affect the final waist measurement.

A vintage pair from Wrangler could fit completely differently despite showing the same tagged size.

This is why so many people get frustrated buying denim.

They think they’re shopping by size.

In reality, they’re shopping by guesswork.

And that’s exactly why the most important measurement isn’t waist size.

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The ’90s are an era we continue to obsess over. Pinterest boards are overflowing with images of supermodels and celebrities serving that effortless, “I just threw this on” energy. But if we’re honest, the outfits themselves weren’t particularly groundbreaking. So why do they still feel so perfect?

It’s something I’ve been thinking about a lot in my own approach to getting dressed. Why do I always come back to this era, and what is it that makes it so enduring?

Whether it was airport dressing or a red carpet event, it all felt a little more real and a little more authentic. Celebrities were often dressing themselves, borrowing pieces from friends, picking something up from a thrift store, or making a last-minute decision without overthinking it.

There was no strategy behind creating a viral moment. Their clothes were simply a reflection of their own personal style. The outfits were uncomplicated, built around quality rather than trends, proving the power of great foundations: a perfectly worn pair of jeans, a leather jacket that had seen years of life, a simple white T-shirt, or a great knit. Timeless pieces, worn over and over again, until they became part of the person wearing them.

There’s an element of a “uniform” to it all — not in the sense that these looks should be copied exactly, but in the idea of keeping things simple and focusing on quality and fit. It’s about finding the pieces that work for you and wearing them unapologetically.

There’s something refreshing about a simpler approach: quality over quantity. A great pair of lived-in jeans or a leather jacket that’s been worn and loved for years carries more character than anything brand new ever could.

Clothing was made to be worn, cherished and lived in — not worn once and forgotten because it’s already been photographed or posted on social media. That’s part of the nostalgia of the ’90s for me. Life moved at a slower pace. It was more analogue, less performative, and there was a quiet authenticity to the way people dressed and the way they lived.

These images of Richard Gere, taken over a five or six-year period, show him wearing the same leather jacket everywhere — to events, at the airport, and in everyday life. The same jacket, over and over again. To me, that’s what real style looks like.

It’s not about constantly buying something new or chasing trends. It’s about finding pieces that feel like you, pieces that become part of your life and only get better with time.

That’s the art of personal style: exploring, refining, and evolving your own aesthetic, while discovering the fits and staples that truly work for you. Those are the pieces that become your signature.

For me, it goes beyond just the fashion. There’s something about vintage that taps into a slower, simpler time. Maybe it’s why I find myself gravitating back to the era of dial-up internet, rewatching old favourites like Baby Boom and Father of the Bride, or getting lost in the world of Nora Ephron with You’ve Got Mail and Sleepless in Seattle.

It’s the same feeling I get from a great pair of vintage jeans — timeless, comforting, full of character, and somehow even better with age.

The ’90s were an incredible era for denim. It doesn’t matter the brand or the wash — every vintage pair I’ve sourced has something special about it.

It’s that individuality you simply can’t recreate. You might be wearing a pair of vintage Levi’s, but the fade, the character, and the life they’ve lived before you make them completely unique. No two pairs are ever the same.

The best part? They only get better with time. With every wear, they soften, the wash becomes even more lived-in, and they gradually mould to you, becoming a reflection of you too.

I get asked all the time, “What makes the perfect pair of jeans?” or “How do I find the perfect jeans for me?”

The perfect pair should work hard in your wardrobe. They should flatter your proportions rather than fight them, fit seamlessly with your personal style and lifestyle, and become one of those pieces you reach for again and again. Most importantly, they should feel timeless — the kind of jean that becomes part of your signature look.

My favourite moment is when someone tries on a pair and says, “I feel like I already own them.” That’s the sign of a truly great jean.

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Soul searching for the perfect pair of jeans? You just end up going with closest or the next best thing? Denim doesn’t need to be a compromise once you understand the fundamentals, what works for your body and the look you want to achieve the majority of the hard work is done.

Having seen hundreds of men and women for fittings in the studio a reoccurring conversation comes up, ‘I think I need’ or ‘I’ve been told’ or ‘I’ve always gone with’. These pre conceptions of what you think you should be wearing is mostly likely hindering your decision making and impacting the styles and sizing you’re choosing to take to the fitting room.

Having references or a Pinterest board at the ready is always a good starting point, but you need to be clear do you like the jean or is it actually the whole outfit/ styling not the jean itself? Defining what one it is won’t send you in an obsessive wild chase to get a jean that isn’t going to tick the boxes- can you commit to the whole look and that 5 inch heel?

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Denim is a core staple but when it comes to warmer months it can become tricky incorporating into your outfits while not overheating and still feeling put together. But it’s easier than you think once you keep to a few factors- not all of these will be for everyone but one should tick the box

1. Jorts

Kicking off with the maybe obvious denim short ‘Jort’- i’m talking knee length rather than a daisy duke. Going for mid to knee length keeps things refined and can dress this up for city dressing. The key with shorts depending on the cut is sizing up, so the leg is more relaxed and A-line, this more flattering on all body types. With vintage cuts you want to go for a purpose made short rather than an cut off. You don’t necessarily want to go with a Levis 501 as this will be slim on the the thigh- other fits such as a 505 or 550 short work well ( There are an edit in the London studio now)

The wash is really up to you and personal preference and that’s one of the best things with denim, it works in so many ways you can create different looks.

2. Relaxed Fits

If shorts aren’t for you and not ready to get out of your jeans yet going for a more relaxed fit ( you can go as slouchy as you like with this)- vintage denim is great for this with the softness and worn in aspect of the denim. With stonewash washes these are generally lighter weights with great drape. All you need with a good pair of jeans is a basic tee or shirt and you’re good to go.

Aim for 1-2 inches up on the waist, wear lower on the hips or style with a belt if wanting wear higher up. Looser doesn’t have to mean unflattering just keep an eye on proportions and not going too oversized on the top.

3. Ripped/Distressed Denim

A favourite of the Olsen Twins and seen on the Runway at Dior Cruise 2027 show- I find the more I speak with people this is either a love/hate. There’s levels of you can go for form light grazing to add texture to full knee rips.

You don’t necessarily need to keep to basic tee and flip flops ( even though this definitely works) with your footwear and accessories can refine. The mix of smart/casual or high/low always works really well.

4. White Denim

This one for everyone is tricky, with the same jean, same sizing can look and fit completely differently. There are a few things you can do to keep the fit flattering, the look chic while still keeping cool.

As a starting rule this is what you should go for:

Size Up

You can for the same sizing but white denim may feel too tight or smaller even thought it’s the same fit. Size up 1-2 sizes or more. A relaxed fit can also be more flattering and feel more modern.

Pick your shade

You don’t have to go for a bright white wash, look at other hues anything from an ecru to sandy tones.

Think about the fabric

You want a thick enough denim to have opacity not showing underwear or any lines but soft enough that has softness and drape.

Length & footwear

Perfecting details such as your planned shoes, thinking about leg lengths will ensure balance and proportion plus removing any dragging hems.

Accessories

Styling with a simple belt in a darker colour palette can ground the whole look and add interest. Also moves the look away from looking too nautical or dated.

Most people choose jeans based on trend cycles instead of body proportions. It’s easy to be sucked into the latest fit that may soon hit the pile of denim that’s not working but you can’t quite put your finger on why- this is totally understandable and we’ve all been victim to this. Denim has become a staple in our wardrobes more than ever, with many of us investing heavily but still paying the price with jeans being ‘ok’.

In the studio it’s been a hot topic and are keen for advice on what things to go for when picking denim, whether thats vintage, premium or high street.

What the rise does (and why it matters)

Let’s go back to basics. The rise is where you jean will sit on you body, it’s the measurement of the jean from the crotch to the top of the waistband.

• Defines waist placement: Low, mid, and high rises place the waistband at different points: on the hips, at the natural waist, or above it. That placement changes perceived leg length and torso balance.

• Alters silhouette: Rise determines where the crotch sits and how fabric drapes from hip to thigh. This affects comfort, the appearance of curves, and how smoothly tops tuck in.

• Affects comfort and function: Too-low rises can gap or pull when you sit; too-high rises can bind or can feel ‘pouchy’ if the cut isn’t right for your shape.

• Works with proportions: The right rise can lengthen or shorten the look of your legs and torso, making outfits feel balanced.

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Over the past few months I’ve fitted over 200 people for jeans of all ages, body sizes, styles and fits (In the London studio). Some are well versed and used to purchasing vintage denim, others it’s a first time purchase and new to the expectation of whats achievable in comparison to ‘modern’ styles.

Here are the realities of vintage denim and help you decide if it’s for you.

Sizing

First conversation is explaining the difference in sizing- what’s on the label the sizing is always smaller- so rule of thumb it doesn’t matter what’s on the label. Factoring in this denim has no stretch, it may have been altered by a previous owner, denim weight and cut variation all play a part. Compared to modern styles, there is usually some element of stretch and we’re in vanity sizing territory- the actual measurement is larger than whats on the label.

Get measuring your modern pairs to get an idea of how your clothes are sizing. This can be triggering but power is knowledge and be a game changer in the fit of your clothes.

For example I had a client who came in a pair of Agolde jeans labelled a ‘26’ but measured 30 inches on the waist. Modern clothes sizing has created a minefield when it comes to shopping, no consistencies even within a brand or style.

Be Open

So first things first is to not getting hung up on sizing- I get it jean sizing is emotional and for some women they hold onto still or always fitting into a certain label size jean.

The success of jean shopping especially with vintage is your mindset and openness to trying something you may have not gone for before, throwing what you know out the window and taking advice from an expert (it really makes all the difference). Those who come in thinking they know better, going for fits that yes are popular on instagram or influencers but maybe not the best for their body proportions. Also trying volume over an edit end up being overwhelmed or disappointed.

Vintage denim is more inclusive in sizing than many think, I’ve seen Levis go up to a 56” waist, so it’s not a case of only working for a certain size group.

Remember it’s not about the size it’s how you want them to fit.

Wash & Details

Requests I have for washes are like day & night- from more ‘worn in’ and distressed with loads of character to a very ‘clean’ uniformed wash that looks more ‘new’ than not. Both are doable but won’t always be a case (straight away anyway) of necessarily finding the wash, style, brand and size all in one- even though success rate is high. Each pair of jeans I source and stock I like to kick various boxes, for wash quality, weight of denim or interesting details/finishes.

With many of these pairs being 30-40 years old they’ve lived a life, been loved and worn over time it’s not going to be ‘perfect’ more imperfectly perfect. There maybe fraying on a hem or around a pocket, back pockets may have indents and outlines of a wallet or keys. Some have been worn more than others, but still have longevity- there are pairs with little to no wear that amazingly look new.

I always say and really believe there is a jean for everyone and when people find ‘their jean’ it’s a match made - majority of the time not what they expected. Trust the process!

Styles

Majority of vintage styles are variety of straight legs of different widths and rises, with some boot cuts and more rare finds flares. True vintage there is only a certain range of styles, you’re not going to find a barrel, horseshoe or a super high rise fit. However depending on what sizing you go for and leg length you can create various looks from the same style.

Levis 501: The cult classic and most asked for fit- it is a chameleon style but it will always be a mans jean even when made smaller for women. I talk about this more in a previous post: Levis 501: The Chameleon Jean

Vintage denim is hands down the best for all these reasons, unique and special- unlike modern fits it gets better and better with more wear. It’s lived in imperfectly perfect, lived a life with stories to tell. You can come away with something unique and bespoke to you that works for your body and lifestyle.

If you’re on the fence or new to vintage denim list down what you would like from your jeans, for example:

1. Stretch or Non Stretch

2. Character wash or clean new finish

3. Mid rise or Super High Rise

4. Yes or no to alterations

It’s deciding what you’re non negotiables are, what is it you’re wanting out of a jean being clear with this will focus you on your denim search.

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From hitting live on website back in October 2020, the idea was simple- curating the best selection of denim online ( in the UK we couldn’t shop IRL) and help share a simple measuring guide, so you could confidently shop with no to minimal returns and making the jean process easy and importantly fun.

Fast forward to today with London studio launching next week (eek) the same formula, questions and principles apply to clients who come and book with me in person or remotely online.

The turning point when shopping for denim is to be clear on what you’re looking for, it’s ok if you don’t have all the answers or open to options. Vintage denim is amazing for so many reasons, the breadth of brands, styles, weights of denim and fits- it’s finding what works for you.

The list below is a great exercise to perfect your fit:

1. What solution are you looking for? Do you struggle with having a gape at the waist? Too tight on the hip/thigh? Everything too long?

2. What are your non- negotiables? Zip fly over button? Original hems? Higher rise?

3. Do you need a pair that is an all rounder? Something for heels and flats? Could wear for work.

4. What is your lifestyle like? Do you need something thats hardwearing, versatile? Or a go to pair for work and going out?

When you’ve narrowed down your specifics this helps simplify and eliminates the ‘noise’.

Next it’s your measurements, not your body ( as you can easily make yourself smaller or bigger) and your natural waist won’t necessarily be where your jeans sit. To get the most accurate fit measure a pair of jeans or trousers you already own ( ideally with no stretch) The four measurements are - waist, hip, rise and inseam.

Now this is where the formula comes into the problem solving. You have your specifics/requirements needed and your measurements.

Now the problem solving comes into the formula. Remember this isn’t you, it’s choices, tweaks and amends that you can make to your denim that make all the difference.

• If you have a smaller waist to hip ratio, jeans feel too tight on hip you need to size up to accommodate the look and fit you’re after on the hip and leg. To remove or minimise the gaping take in the waist.

• If you prefer a mid to lower rise size up and wear jeans lower on hips. This also gives you extra leg length, with option to shorten or have a puddle hem or if you struggle to find jeans long enough this helps.

• Vintage denim comes in various leg lengths majority are from 30-32” but extend to 34-36” leg. Don’t be scared if you need to shorten- it’s possible to do an original hem so you keep all of the features and OG stitching.

• If you prefer a slimmer leg when it comes to straight legs or any style investing in alterations will ensure your denim works hard. It’s sustainable not because it’s vintage but because you will wear them and have longevity in your wardrobe.

Having these details finalised- makes up your formula that you can apply to your jean shopping. I have clients that follow this, know the brand, style and sizing needed and just play with the fit ( sizing up or down), the wash and tweaking with alterations to get the desired fit.

Your Specifics + Actual Measurements + Jean Style + Alterations = YOUR Perfect Fit

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Mindset

For years many of us have bought clothing and denim with the mindset that it has to be ‘PERFECT’ with no amends, no changes whatsoever. I’ve talked about this in a previous Substack, before the days of ready to wear everything was made bespoke to you, your body and measurements. When you see celebrities at events or even just out and about 9/10 whatever they’re wearing has been tailored to them. Clients who book appointments with me who come in with an open mindset, ignoring size labels, going off accurate measurements come away with a plethora of denim.

It’s not about what’s on the label, it’s how you want them to fit.

Body Shape

Vintage denim excels for so many reasons, it’s quality, fit, cut- the fact the majority is 35 years+ old and still going strong speaks for it’s self. But majority of styles were based around mens blocks/body shape- the cult 501, the first style from Levis was designed for men. A unisex fit but not designed necessarily for women’s bodies- hands down the most regularly requested style and become somewhat of a ‘cool girl’ jean.

For some body shapes and body proportion you will always need some tweaks and changes, it’s not about your size for women it’s mainly down to your waist to hip ratio.

So what can you do?

This is where alterations come in, and I get it, it fills people with dread- from maybe poor past experiences, expensive mistakes or not sure what to ask for.

The thing is this can be minor, really small changes, from opening up a hem of a jean adding an ankle slit to taking in waist by an inch or so.

Top Tips

• If you find vintage denim styles too straight add in an ankle vent, this can be on the outer or inner seam depending on how much of a feature you want this to be. This will mean the jean will flare over your shoe- works well if you’re looking to achieve the puddle hem look.

• If you have a smaller waist to hip ratio, focus on the hip measurement - you will most likely find you will need to go larger in the waist accommodate the hip/thigh and then take in the waist.

• The wash of your denim plays a big part of the overall look and feel- do you prefer a solid ‘flat’ wash, this can look smarter and more classic compared to a wash with more ‘highs and lows’. This is where there is fade, lighter and darker pars to the wash.

• Footwear- are you looking to wear these with a heel, flat or both? A detail such as the right leg length for your shoes really impacts the overall fit.

The Formula

• Ignore the size label: Be open to sizing and fits, jeans may look larger off the body but remember there is no stretch in vintage pairs. Remember it doesn’t matter what it says on the label, it’s all about  your comfort and choice.

• Nail your true to size measurements: This will give you an accurate starting point and key if you’re looking for fitted denim or sizing up for a slouchy fit. Always measure in inches rather than cms as jean labelling is in inches. 

• Don’t be tempted to round up or down your measurements even if it’s minor it can really impact the overall fit and can be the difference of something fitting or not. 

• Invest in alterations, they are key to getting a jean from ok to amazing, resulting in something you reach for time and time again. 

• Vintage styles and sizing have varied over the years, so don’t be tempted to go by what you’ve had before even if you’ve got quite the collection: always refer back to measurements and visuals. Levis are known to have amended their core styles era to era, so don’t be surprised if a 501 from the 80s looks and feels very different to a 00s jean. 

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Transitional autumn dressing will always be a favourite and inspires me to mix things up and get excited about putting looks together- especially with a good pair of vintage jeans.

I get asked often what’s the latest denim ‘trends’ and I have a kind of love hate with that term when it comes to denim. A trend is only good if one it feels like you, works with your lifestyle and wardrobe. That being said there is a way that you can lean into them without buying into a look that for you may be a one hit wonder and an expensive mistake rather than a good investment.

Pinterest and mood-boarding is always a starting point as I’m continually sourcing jeans, looking for great details/ washes/fits that work for various body shapes and sizes.

Here are some denim looks I’m loving right now and a way to inject elements into your denim wardrobe:

Into the Blue

Inky Blue hues are becoming a fast favourite, a versatile wash that can elevate your wardrobe, taking you from the office to dinner. Whether its a classic straight, tapered or oversized and slouchy this one will tick all the boxes.

Styles: You will find many vintage fits in this wash in more solid washes or more worn in washes with more ‘highs and lows’ and whiskering.

The Slouch

Oversized and slouchy isn’t planning on going anywhere and a fit that can work on a majority of body shapes and sizes. If this look is new for you and not sure you’re ready for going anything too ‘big’, try sizing up one size in any straight leg fit to see how you feel. It’s all about proportion so the taller you can play with more extreme slouchiness but it’s all down to personal preference and no rules with this.

Styles: You can achieve this look with any straight leg fit such as Levis 501/ Levis 505 / Levis 582 / Levis 565 / Wrangler Straight /Levis 506 Slouch

Keep it Classic

A good straight leg will take you places, work hard in your wardrobe- great with all footwear from loafers to kitten heels. It’s become a core basic that depending on wash and finish its a chameleon covering all basis.

Styles: Levis 501s are always the front runner, with its button fly and mid rise fit. If you prefer a zip go with a Levis 505

Boot Up

This one has been living under the raider for a while but if you’ve got a pair you know these will be a game changer- the bootcut! There is a very good reason why it was a favourite of Carolyn Bessette- Kennedy, who regularly was seen wearing a Levis 517. Not always the easiest to find so if you come across a pair you love, snap them up.

Styles: Levis 517, higher in the rise and zip fly, similar fits such as Levis 607 or Wrangler Texas.

Perfectly Imperfect

This one can be a love hate, but if you keep all other elements of your look polished it can look effortlessly chic. The Olsen twins were great and getting this balance, keeping looks simple and over the years become iconic.

If ripped denim or distressing puts the fear in you a tip I use on my clients is adding denim behind the rip so you get the distressing and texture without showing too much skin. Lean into the perfect imperfections that come with vintage denim, the uniqueness of every pair makes them even more special and a definite conversation starter.

What if I told you these were all 501s?

Sizing up or keeping true to size can give you a completely different look & feel but there’s an art to getting there. This is something at Pin Denim we remove the guess work, decipher your measurements and give you the framework- a template for you to work from for future jean shopping making it a breeze.

The 501 Breakdown:

• Straight leg fit

• Dependent on era rise varies from 10-11.5 inches

• 10 inch difference in waist to hip ratio

• Hem opening varies from 7-9 inches, find that smaller sizes under 30” waist you find narrow leg widths.

• Most styles especially over 30” waist are unisex and more likely mens pairs

The style really came into it’s own in 90s seen on celebrities and models like nailing the effortless off duty look. So here are some things you can think about if you’re after your dream pair of 501s:

• The 501 is a mens cut, therefore cut straight in the hip, so if you have a smaller waist to hip ratio most likely you will need to size up from your usual waist sizing to accommodate your hips and have alterations to take in the waist unless you’d like to sit lower and slouchier.

• When looking at fits and looks, what do you actually like about them? Will it work with your wardrobe, lifestyle? For example a slouchy oversized fit reference looks amazing but is it the overall styling and the 5 inch heels.

• You’re in button fly territory, not deal breaker but can be for some, depending on the sizing you’re after you may find some slight bunching/room at the crotch. This is when you are pulling the jeans to high from where they natural want to sit- tweaks help remove this or be prepared for these to sit lower on your hips.

• Whether you’ve got petite pins or a leggy babe the 501 comes in a realm of leg lengths up to a 36” inch leg. You will find over time they have been shortened or had changes by their previous owners.

• Just to throw in a curveball Levis changed the cut of the 501 throughout era so an 80s 501 fits very differently to a 90s or 00s, they all have their benefits but something to factor when trying pairs.

• Vintage denim is not all made equal. As much as there are many great pairs out there, there are fakes, poor quality or not true vintage.

Still feels all like a bit of mine-field, get in touch for a chat or book yourself a sourcing appointment!

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I know what comes to mind for majority of us- the Y2K bootcut, super low rise and the era of the ‘stripe’ wash, but don’t worry that is being left firmly in the past. There are a number of bootcut styles that are becoming a go to for clients and will work hard in your wardrobe.

Intro Levis 517s…

No word of a lie these have become the go to and signature for many of my clients, so let’s go through what makes them so great.

Originally introduced to the Levi’s family back in 1969, a ‘slim boot’ with a slight kick at the hem- a unisex fit. Many were made with their STA- PREST fabric ( you will find many of these pairs have a centre front crease, the appeal that these stayed pressed without the need to iron).

You may not know that Carolyn Bassette- Kennedy was a fan, many of your Pinterest board refs that you may have, are her wearing a 517.

Style Breakdown:

• Mid to High rise (dependant on the era)

• Zip Fly

• Cut slightly more narrow in the hip

• Leg lengthening

• 9-9.5” hem opening

• Exudes effortless french girl vibes

For some of you this style maybe familiar, back in 2020 Levis collaborated with Valentino to bring back the fit, but with the £750 ticket price they were fair from reach for many, but why not get the original anyway for far less.

You will see from the runway these are a great style to dress up or lean into the boho ‘Chloé’ look.

I have put many clients in this fit of all shapes/builds/sizes the key is to have your measurements to hand, accommodating that the fit is narrower in the hip (you will find this in 70s styles). Make sure you keep the leg length long if you’re after full length, factoring in your footwear choice but equally works as a cropped kick flare and even sized up for a relaxed fit.

Also a personal favourite for when I’m looking for an effortless dressed up denim look. If you struggle with straight leg styles or find the cult 501 isn’t for you, give this a try a bootcut could just be your new best friend.

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Having denim that will work hard in your wardrobe will make everyday dressing that much easier - it’s a definite game changer. Investing in denim that you can wear on multiple occasions, that are tailored for you and your lifestyle is something you will thank yourself later for.

Over time I have established what styles and sizing work for me- I prefer a slouchy fit and a longer leg that puddles that can work with heels or flats. Having this template means it’s just selecting the wash and details. As a starting point knowing my ‘true to size’ measurements I have a bench mark for how much or little I can size up or down. Nailing the basics and having this tool removes the guessing out of jeans shopping, removing hours in the fitting room and ‘hauls’.

A well loved favourite and reference I get sent a lot is Hailey Bieber’s denim looks- she regularly reverts to number of vintage fits. The outfits aren’t necessarily ground breaking but they work. A combination of denim and jackets, playing with proportion knowing what works for her body shape and personal style. Whether it’s more relaxed and slouchy or leaning towards a more classic look she has a number of key pairs you see her wearing- switching up footwear, dressing up or down.

I’m not saying we all need to be wearing a pair of baggy Levis, but finding a style and have one or a few key pairs that can work for all occasions rather than having an overwhelming wardrobe bursting ‘having nothing to wear’ will make everyday and occasion dressing a dream.

The Formula

This exercise is a great starting point in deciphering what you want to achieve with your denim having the basics clarified that you can refer to.

1. Start looking at the denim you own already, what do you like or not like. Having a list of likes/dislikes will give you a brief.

For example: Likes: Straight leg, full length, high rise, dark blue, no rips.

• Overall Shape ( straight/skinny/wide/relaxed)

• Leg Length (full length, cropped)

• The rise ( low/mid/high)

• The wash

• Details ( Distressing/rips)

2. Next is to look at your lifestyle, are these purely for more casual events, an all rounder, pairs that can be worn for work or evening?

For example: All rounder that can be dressed up

3. Footwear- are you flats only or are you a heels wearer whatever the occasion? Having your denim the right length not only for your body shape/height but with your existing wardrobe. The majority of the time references on Pinterest look so good is the person has invested in alterations to ensure the fit is spot on.

For example: Flats & heels wearer- length that can work for both.

Doing this for both your likes and dislikes of your current denim and even for your other wardrobe pieces will help you see what you like, what you are already reaching for and the gaps.

Sizing

I am a broken record when it comes to this but knowing your measurements will give you the knowledge you need to buy confidently and removes the guess work. Whether you’re after something classic or after an MC Hammer fit this is good to have.

I always suggest measuring from a pair of jeans or trousers you own ( ideally no stretch) there is more room for error measuring your body and jeans won’t necessarily sit on your natural waist. Always measure in inches rather than cm, as jean sizing is referred to inches and will be less confusing.

Keep note of the jean style/fit you’ve taken the measurements from- is it from a fitted ‘true to size’ jean or a relaxed style.

The four measurements you need are:

• Waist

• Rise ( crotch to top of the waistband)

• Hip

• Inseam ( inside leg)

Alterations & Tailoring

Making a few tweaks or changes to your denim- nipping in a waist, slimming a leg, taking up a hem can make all the difference between you reaching for pair of jeans or not. It can be daunting and the fear of any alterations not done well but there are many excellent tailors out there, I always recommend The Seam who offer a wide range of services to all apparel and accessories to make sure you get the most shelf-life and wear from your wardrobe!

All of the above is something I use regularly and go use with my sourcing clients and proven to work. Over time they have built curated wardrobes that have longevity, regular wear and have found much value in the investment.

Give it a go and let me know how you get on!

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Her magic touch that has us in a chokehold, Phoebe Philo has become a regular reference and a Pinterest board favourite. The designer behind the well loved eras of brands such as Celine and Chloé, has created a fashion cult and aesthetic that is craved by many (myself included).

But if you weren’t familiar with the designer before, you would’ve been after the launch of her own namesake brand with the collection selling out almost immediately. One of the well loved pieces being the ‘Drop Jeans’- relaxed, slouchy with you guessed it a drop crotch but with the £950 price tag, these are out of reach for a lot of us.

But there’s good news, you can easily create this look & feel with vintage- the key is nailing the fit/sizing and pairing with the right pieces. Here are five things you can do when it comes to denim to achieve the look, no matter age, size or body type.

1. Proportion

   I’ve had many conversations with clients about oversized denim, concerned that a relaxed, wider leg isn’t going to work for certain shapes but the key is proportion and balance. If you are more on the petite side, make sure you don’t go to wide in the leg and long in the crotch as this will to the eye make your legs appear shorter.

   It’s also thinking about existing pieces you have in your wardrobe, if you’re a lover of oversized when it comes to jackets and tops, think about sizing only one size up rather than going to extreme slouch. It’s a game of balance and something I’ve talked about on instagram getting the The cool girl fit .

   Levis 501 is a chameleon jean and depending on the look you’re after can look like a different jean. For myself it’s become a go to with pairs varying in size by 3-4 inches at the waist.

   Tip: When achieving a drop crotch fit, keep the rise to 10/10.5” rise to keep legs looking long.

2. Don’t be scared to size up

   With achieving a relaxed silhouette, sizing up your vintage denim is going to be key. The is a plethora of straight leg styles, with various leg widths and rises that you can recreate these ‘modern’ fits, depending on the look you’re after you will find that when sizing up your jeans will sit lower on your waist, giving you the drop crotch but if you prefer some shape and higher rise, alterations will be needed at the waist.

   If you find that you have a larger hip to waist ratio and struggle with jeans being too tight on the thigh, focus on those areas, as taking in a waist is an easy fix.

   TIP: With a size up pair, don’t be tempted to then pull jeans up to sit higher on the waist as this is where you will find it may get ‘crotchy’ and bunching. If you prefer jeans to sit higher but like the relaxed leg get yourself to a tailor.

3. Tailor to you

   I can’t say this enough tailoring and having clothes altered to fit to you take everything to another level. The allure of the look is the effortless but refined edge to everything- ensuring hems work for your footwear etc. If you’re not sure where to go for your alterations Pin Denim has recently partnered with The Seam

   as they have expert makers on their roster that can keep your vintage denim looking good as new, keeping all those original features.

4. Back to Basics

   Looking at the collection, you will see it’s built upon a lot of basics you probably have in your wardrobe- tailoring, blazers, basic relaxed tees, tank tops etc. These pieces look so great because of the cut, they make a statement and fit to perfection. Vintage tailoring, trench coats, leather jackets are easily accessible from your local charity shop, vinted or thrift stores - without the hefty price tag.

   Keep things simple and let them do the talking.

5. Colour Palette

   The monochromatic palette black/grey/ browns/ white simplifies and goes back to ease of effortless dressing- having pieces that all work together. That being said you don’t have to stick to this palette if theses colours don’t work for you, it’s more about keeping a tonal look, focus on textures rather than prints to add interest.

   When it comes to denim anything goes in terms of wash but a staple black pair would tick a lot of boxes but mid to inky blue denim and if white doesn’t terrify you will take you from day to night, work for multiple occasions and importantly work hard in your wardrobe.

A question I get asked a lot is how to achieve that ‘cool girl’ fit. You may be thinking what even is that?

It’s a throw on, effortless denim that does all the work for you, from straight leg styles all the way through to that slouchy puddle hem. But most importantly a jean that you feel confident in and works for you!

Bringing your Pinterest board to life is easier said that done and finding the sizing and fit can not be so easy. But good news, there are multiple styles that work for many different body types that can give you a similar look & feel. Following this method I have been able to help hundreds of women find a jean that works for their proportions, lifestyle and existing wardrobe.

This guide I use with my sourcing clients should help you narrow down the denim mind field!

Firstly it’s good to think about these areas:

• What does your lifestyle look like? Are you heel or flat wearer?

• Are you looking for these to be an all rounder- take you from day to night? Or want these to be for more casual occasions?

• What’s in your current wardrobe? Do you keep everything oversized on top or more fitted?

Petite Frame

Details: Two words, proportion & alterations! These are going to be key to achieve the balance and ensure that this fit doesn’t overwhelm your smaller frame. Whether you are looking to achieve the puddle trend or the classic straight leg knowing your starting measurements is going to be important. Having the foundations nailed down will make sizing up a lot easier.

If you’re looking to keep to the classic straight fit, i’ve found the cult classic 501 isn’t always the best fit for those who are petite. We need to remember that the 501 is designed for men and depending on your hip measurement, I have found that for smaller clients there is some bunching in the crotch.

That being said if you’re happy to size up and either leave the jeans sat lower on your hips or take in the waist a 501 can work. A great alternative is Levis 505 very similar to a 501 but with a zip fly, cut generally neater.

Styles: Levis 501, Levis 505 great classic straights vary from mid to higher rise. Levis 517- you can even size up with this style or keep it a little more polished. The slim boot is a great leg lengthener and works cropped or full length.

Tall & Leggy

Details: You leggy babes are blessed with options, your frame allows you to be able to experiment more with sizing and carry off a more extreme slouchy fit if you want. The puddle trend is a great one that has versatility from day to night, flats to heels.

When sizing up keep an eye on the crotch length (rise) this can really impact the look and the visual length of your legs. Sizing up and wearing a style lower on your waist/hip is going to give a dropped crotch, by no means a bad thing just something to keep in mind. Aim for a 10.5-11” rise if you’re not after anything too extreme, this is good to factor when you size up and wear lower on the hip as you may find you won’t need as longer leg length as everything is sitting lower.

A welcomed sight compared to many modern styles is the vinatge leg length range- especially Levis & Wrangler they go all the way up to a 36” leg!

Styles: Levis 501/505 are great for the classic straight through to the maxi slouch. If after styles that have width already is Levis 582- a mid to lower rise but can create a higher rise by sizing up and taking in the waist.

Curve Frame

Details: You most likely struggle with a smaller waist to hip ratio, with gaping at the waist being a familiar dilemma. If you find that you struggle with jeans both fitting on the thigh and the waist. The key is for you is to focus on achieving first the fit on the leg, depending on the look you’re after you may need to size up more than you think sometimes as much as 2-3 sizes. Nipping in a waist is much easier than tackling re shaping or adding in fabric to the leg.

Going for balancing proportions that skim the bum/thigh area will be more flattering, with an ankle to full length cut.

Styles: Levis 521, Levis 615, Levis 560 - these are cut with more room in the thigh and hip, are all zip fly fastening so naturally sit neater and shape better on the waist and with alterations. If you like a slightly wider hem a Levis 517 a slim boot does wonders and a great jean to take through to the evening.

Short legged

Details: You have a longer torso but shorter legs. This can be the case at any height, going back to basics first will give you a better understanding of how to move forward.

A higher rise is going to balance out your longer torso, giving the illusion of a longer leg. I know you’re thinking how does that work with slouchy fits? Relaxed wider leg fits are not off the cards it’s ensuring that the crotch doesn’t sit too low and the leg too wide- as this can make your legs look even shorter.

Going for styles that still have the relaxed leg but some shape in the waist will give you the overall look your after but the balance you need.

Styles: Levis 521, Levis 505, Levis 501, Levis 615- all great straight legs that come in variety of rises. Work well true to size or sizing up without giving too much width in the leg.

Apple Frame

Details: Your hip to waist ratio is similar, it’s all about balancing your bottom half but not going for anything too baggy that will still give you shape. Going with a straight leg, wider leg or boot cut is going to be most flattering. Keeping leg lengths long will streamline your look so have a think about your footwear.

You may find that you will need to size up depending on the width you’d like on the thigh, refining details like waist and leg length will really elevate your look. Darker washes will give a cleaner silhouette, a charcoal or indigo wash is a great all rounder that can take you from day to night.

Styles: Levis 505, Levis 501, Levis 582, Levis 650- all great straight leg styles that depending on the sizing gives your versatility. Levis 517 is a great bootcut that elongates and streamlines.

Footwear

Whether you are a heels or flat wearer, making sure that the length is bespoke to you (not too long where its bunching or too cropped). With whatever style you go for, refining details and ensuring the fit is purposeful will be the game changer in ensuring the look.

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Share Good Days Start with Good Denim

So I can source a variety styles/fits and have the knowledge to share with my clients looking for a vintage equivalent. I have spent time in denim departments- trying on and getting a feel of denim weights, quality and sizing consistency or in most cases inconsistency!

That being said I am not here to tarnish or call out brands but to highlight that a £300 plus price tag can be for many an expensive mistake if it is without expert advice of buying a jean that works for your lifestyle and body or the mindset that spending ££ is going to be a problem solver. It will be a sustainable purchase- not just in the sense of production or buying only vintage but how much wear and use you will get.

If you are choosing a pair that’s on trend or a dopamine purchase ask yourself is this purchase based on buying into a trend rather than something that is going to work hard for your wardrobe and have longevity.

The decision to source exclusively vintage denim is for two main reasons and simply it is better quality and overall better made. The fabrication is hard wearing, with majority of pairs I have sourced are 30- 40 years old and still going strong after living a full life. Secondly, there is no way to get around the environmental factors and water usage of buying new denim. Plus why buy new that is made to look vintage when you can get the real deal?!

Having helped hundreds of women find their dream jeans, no matter age, body shape or size, it boils down to the same problems and questions that you can ask yourself when deciding on a denim purchase.

1. What purpose or occasion are you wanting these jeans for? Everyday day wear, work or evening or an allrounder?

2. What are your non negotiables- only zip fly/button fly, soft denim, high rise etc.

3. What areas do you struggle with- jeans gaping at waist, not wide enough on the thigh?

4. What footwear do you want to wear with these - flats, trainers or heels

5. What is your lifestyle look and existing wardrobe? - we want jeans to work hard in your wardrobe. It can be tempting that jeans look great in the moment or in a picture but won’t work for your life or style?

6. Do you need a hard wearing denim, rather than something soft, that may wear at stress points ( knees, bum, inner thighs) overtime?

7. What sort of fit- slouchy and relaxed, fitted and true to size?

8. Your body proportions- shorter legs, long torso or short torso longer legs.

Establishing this helps you to be clear with your purchase. Whether you’re shopping solo, buying vintage or using a service, this helps and guides you to sustainable purchasing.

Not to forget- ALTERATIONS! Can’t say this enough ! they are a game changer in taking an ok Jean to an amazing Jean. Have the mindset that jeans need to work for you and therefore making tweaks or amendments are going to have you reaching for that pair every time.

The remote and in person sourcing service at Pin Denim is designed to do take away the stress from overwhelming choice that comes with jean shopping. The initial investment that comes at the beginning - deciphering sizing/style/fits - sets you up to have a better understanding of what works for you making every purchase an educated one!

My most asked and daily question is, will these fit? I’m a size ‘x’ in this brand. I think they will roughly fit, right? 

Answer is that with eyeballing and ‘guesstimating’ sizing, especially with vintage denim, you’re into a long road of disappointment, wasted money and dreaded returns. 

So, let’s go back to basics (and a little history lesson) 

Before the world of Ready to Wear, clothes weren’t mass produced and ready to buy;- people knew their measurements as clothing was made bespoke to them. With the rise of the department stores like Selfridges in the early 1900s, RTW (prêt-à-porter) was introduced: ‘off the peg’ for the masses. Brands growing over the years has opened a can of worms when it comes to sizing and with that comes inconsistencies, with brands following their own guides, fabrication and country of origin and these will all affect the fit. 

The fashion Industry and pop culture has influenced jean size which for a long time has held a lot of value for many: more so than any other item of clothing. It’s an emotional purchase (we’ve all been there rather like bra shopping) it’s not an easy one and is why you will find with modern denim label that size and measurement are not matching.

Brands realising the psychology around a purchase is key in getting a sale over the line, means you will find it is most likely actually larger than the label (eg a size 26 is actually…. In real measurement). This has been referred to as Vanity sizing. 

With vintage denim it’s the opposite, with label sizing being larger than the actual measurement. This is because brands would include the selvedge size (the seam allowance) in labelling and denim was shrink to fit. People were generally smaller, therefore sizing guides were different and may have been altered or amended.  A key point to remember is that though they lean into being ‘unisex’, there are a number of things you need to factor in to achieve the fit you want. 

The cult 501 men’s jean, originally known as the hardwearing workwear ‘trouser’- is cut straight in the hip and the leg is versatile for many body shapes and sizes. Understanding your measurements and body size will dramatically help you in the quest for the perfect fit. Having your waist, hip, rise and inseam measurement gives you an idea of how a jean may fit and will indicate where you may need to size up or down. 

Measure jeans/trousers that you already own and that fit well (ideally no stretch) keep a note of the jeans you've used for measurements - true to size, relaxed, baggy etc.  I find this to be more accurate than measuring your body- where there is more room for error, making yourself larger or smaller than you are, remember the majority of styles are not sitting on your natural waist. Don’t be alarmed if the number is different to what you thought! Knowledge is power and you’re one step closer to removing the shopping stress and having the joy of jeans working for you every time. 

Here is the formula to perfecting your vintage fit: 

• Ignore the size label: Be open to sizing and fits, jeans may look larger off the body but remember there is no stretch in vintage pairs. Remember it doesn't matter what it says on the label, it's all about  your comfort and choice.

• Nail your true to size measurements: This will give you an accurate starting point and key if you’re looking for fitted denim or sizing up for a slouchy fit. Always measure in inches rather than cms as jean labelling is in inches. 

• Don’t be tempted to round up or down your measurements! even if it’s minor it can really impact the overall fit and can be the difference of something fitting or not. 

• Invest in alterations, they are key to getting a jean from ok to amazing, resulting in something you reach for time and time again. 

• Vintage styles and sizing have varied over the years, so don't be tempted to go by what you've had before even if you've got quite the collection: always refer back to measurements and visuals. Levis are known to have amended their core styles era to era, so don't be surprised if a 501 from the 80s looks and feels very different to a 00s jean. 

• Book yourself a sourcing appointment with Pin Denim take care of deciphering your sizing, curate selection of styles and fits across vintage brands plyus take care of any tweaks or alterations.

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My hope and plan is for this to be your go to for denim advice and guidance on fits, styles and sharing the knowledge I have gathered over the years across design, production and personal shopping.

For those who are unfamiliar, I founded Pin Denim in 2020; a vintage denim personal sourcing service, aiming to take the stress out of jean shopping by deciphering sizing and fits. Many of my clients I have never met in person, they have successfully found their dream vintage jeans by following my advice on nailing their measurements and taking into account cuts, denim weight and styles - throwing the rule book out the window and ignoring size labels!

Each week I will be covering different areas, sizing & styles, looking further into vintage denim brands, sharing denim history and how to get the fit you’re after. Giving you an insight into the sourcing process you get when you book an online or IRL appointment with Pin Denim.

Please ask questions and any areas you would like me to cover! I hope this will become your go to for all things denim and help as many of you as possible find your dream jeans!

XOXO

Chloë