As I’ve gotten older, it’s never really gone away, and I just started getting used to it. No one around me really noticed it or had something similar, so I never made it a big deal and accepted that I would never have perfectly smooth skin.

Then, what I like to refer to as the skincare boom of 2020 happened. Skincare “experts” and dermatologists flooded my TikTok FYP, explaining all different skin types, ingredients to treat different skin concerns, and products to try. Then I came across a dermatologist talking about “Keratosis Pilaris,” aka “KP,” aka “strawberry skin.” I self-diagnosed with KP, and like every other beauty-obsessed person, did a deep dive on what it was, skincare routines that suited it best, and products created for it (if any).

KP $cience

For those who may not be familiar, KP is a harmless skin condition where dead skin cells, that should just slough off through light exfoliation, build up around the hair follicles and form small, rough bumps. They look like you have permanent “goosebumps.” These excess skin cells and keratin clog the follicles, preventing the smooth skin we all desire.

It’s actually very common. It may improve in humid weather and may be exacerbated by dry, cold, winter air. Unfortunately there is no permanent cure… yet, but there are treatments to reduce texture and discoloration. Ingredients to consider when treating KP: exfoliants, retinoids, and barrier-caring ingredients.

A common misconception is that you unclog these pores by drying out your skin and over-exfoliating. In reality, this will only compromise your skin barrier and only make the problem worse.

Exfoliants, retinoids, and barrier ingredients come in different formats: body wash, treatments (like toner pads & serums), and moisturizers. My favorites are moisturizers, because you can formulate an exfoliant or retinoid with barrier ingredients all in one product. Body washes are great to add, but keep in mind that they’re a wash-off product and ingredients need time to work, so using one in tandem with a leave-on treatment is best practice.

Products to try

• CeraVe SA (salicylic acid) Lotion or Cream for Rough and Bumpy Skin — $ky’s Fav

• Topicals Slather Exfoliating Body Serum (also comes in a body bar)

• AmLactin Daily Nourish Lotion

• First Aid Beauty KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub

• First Aid Beauty KP Smoothing & Brightening Body Lotion

• Cyklar Lactic Acid Foaming Body Wash

I’ve been thinking about writing about KP for a while, and I kept deciding not to, because I haven’t exactly figured it out for myself yet. Although I have found products to reduce the look and feel of my KP, it has never completely gone away. And because it was never ‘perfect,’ I didn’t feel qualified or “ready” enough to share about a skin concern I’ve been trying to manage for years.

There’s something super personal about writing or talking about anything that might touch on an ounce of insecurity, but my goal this year has been to really commit to everything I want. Which includes sharing and writing about everything that has had some sort of impact on me, my career, my life, or just taken up space in my brain.

So, there are interventions to try to reduce KP, but it will always be there. Thankfully it’s not harmful, so it’s okay if it’s never perfect … nothing really ever is. Which is why I decided to write about it, just because mine isn’t perfect, doesn’t make it not worth trying to improve or even share what I have been trying.

Exfoliate, retinoid, moisturize, repeat, forever. Think, write, edit, publish, repeat, forever. It’ll never be perfect, but it can always get better when you do it… whatever ‘it’ is.

It’s kind of chic to not be perfect, to have KP, and to not be ready but try anyway.

With Innovation & Introspection,

$ky

From the brand sponsorships scattered throughout the villa and commercials — hello Maybelline and CeraVe — to watching everyone somehow maintain full beauty routines while living in Fiji, I can’t help but pay attention.

Every episode, my mind starts wandering into very important questions: How would I do my hair? What would stay in my makeup bag? How much SPF would I need in bulk? I would liveee in the glitter & glam room!

So instead of keeping these thoughts to myself, I figured I’d write them out and hopefully hear what your villa must-haves would be too.

As a nice break from all the anthropological and sociological breakdowns of recent events, let’s return to the universal language of beauty.

Assuming I’d be there for six weeks, I would absolutely dedicate an entire suitcase to beauty products…and I don’t feel bad about it.

Skin & Body Care

SPFs! (Emphasis on plural)

Naturally, my first thought is SPF. Everyone who has been here for a while knows my obsession with sunscreen, so obviously this is the first thing I’m packing — and in abundance. Not one sunscreen. Not two. Several.

First up: Caudalie High Protection Glow Oil SPF 50.

Now, I haven’t tried this one personally, but beauty writers I trust (shoutout Asia Milia) rave about it, so I’m intrigued. Unfortunately it isn’t sold in the US, which somehow makes me want it more.

It uses three UV filters not approved stateside and is packed with grape seed antioxidants, which can help combat oxidative stress and support collagen protection after sun exposure. High maintenance? Yes. Worth it? Probably.

Next is Kiehl’s BetterScreen SPF 50 Jumbo Size.

If there are no lovers of this sunscreen left on earth, I am no longer here. I have tested other options. I have explored. I have experimented. And somehow…I always come back. It leaves my skin protected, glowy, and I fully trust it to survive the Fijian sun… and whatever challenge production has planned that day.

Dermatologica Daily Microfoliant

This has quietly become one of my summer staples. After makeup, competition slime, sweat, kissing challenges, and spending an entire day outside, I would need something to fully reset my skin every night. I love that it gives both physical and chemical exfoliation, but I especially love that I can customize it depending on how aggressive I’m feeling since it’s a powder. More water for a gentle cleanse. Less water when I need to make it into a paste to enter recovery mode .

Shoutout my mom for putting me on.

Naturium Glow Getter Trio

And yes, I mean the entire trio. The body wash oil. The scrub. The body cream.

After a full day of sun exposure, body shimmer, random challenge residue, and emotional turmoil, I would need the full body reset as well. My skin barrier deserves peace even if I don’t.

Refrigerated Sheet Masks

Truthfully, I don’t use sheet masks because I think they are some revolutionary skincare treatment. I use them because they feel nice. And in this case? Because I would need a moment.

I already know there would be an entire fridge shelf dedicated to my face masks so every night I can cool down, depuff, and mentally recover from whatever happened at the fire pit.

Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Cream

I’m not really an eye cream person. It is simply an extra skincare step I routinely forget exists.

BUT…

From what I hear, sleep in the villa is already limited because of production schedules. And apparently some people are losing even more sleep for reasons involving French fries. So I need backup. A brightening eye cream means less concealer, less product buildup, and fewer signs of exhaustion showing up on camera.

Brunel Body Oil

The propaganda for this body oil has been aggressive. And honestly? I understand.

For an effortless, healthy, transfer-proof glow before walking down the stairs for the nightly toast and chats, I’d absolutely be packing multiple bottles.And I would share with the girls. Probably.

Makeup

Water-Based Makeup Only

If you read my last post, then you already know I’m fully committing to water-based makeup formulas in the villa. Between the Fiji humidity, constant sweating, and the possibility of kissing someone I met 48 hours ago, I need products that are not going anywhere. Chanel. Refy. Come to the front.

Think lip stains surviving toasties, kissing, and emotional distress.

One Size On Till Dawn (with SPF)

Some of my favorite products are still not water-based, so naturally I need reinforcement. This setting spray is doing triple duty. Locking in makeup. Surviving water challenges. And doubling as SPF reapplication because we are not being irresponsible here.

Too Faced Better Than Sex Waterproof Mascara

Taking it back to middle school. I used to swear by this mascara and honestly, I trust it enough to bring it back. And … the name feels appropriate for the occasion.

Love Island, and what not.

Danessa Myricks Water Powder Serum + Universal Blurring Balm

These two are the foundation (literally) of surviving heat and humidity. They control oil, blur beautifully, and keep shine under control. And if I know anything about the girls in that villa…

At least three of them already have this in their makeup bags. You probably know the 3 too.

Hair

K18 Detox Shampoo or Cecred Clarifying Shampoo

Choosing between these two stressed me out. Both are incredible for removing buildup, and I already know villa life would require way more washing than normal. Pool pushes. Jet ski dates. Food challenges. Mystery substances ending up in your hair. I would be reaching for one of these constantly.

And if you’re wondering about hairstyle choices I think I’m entering the villa with a super secure custom curly half wig. I used to be team braids and I kinda still am.

But I don’t know how I would clean slime and food out of knotless braids, and I don’t think I want to learn.

TPH Make It Rain Conditioner

I recently rediscovered this conditioner and forgot how much my hair loves it. My hair literally drinks this product. Between extra washing and the dryness prolonged sun exposure can cause, this one is non-negotiable.

Matrix Food For Soft Deep Conditioner

The villa has off days. And I would absolutely be taking advantage of them. I’m talking full wash day. Deep conditioner. Walking around letting the heat help everything penetrate properly.

Then finishing with a blowout using the provided Dyson dryers and a fresh braid down for reinstalling my half wig. A self-care reset.

Blue Magic

Old school classics deserve respect. This is perfect for locking moisture in after wash day and keeping my braid down fresh. And if I did somehow choose braids? This is absolutely coming with me.

Amika Frizz Me Not + The Shield

Humidity is not a game. The treatment comes out during wash day. The Shield is everyday maintenance. I refuse to let Fiji humble me… or at least not my hair.

The Doux Block Party Gel

Whether I’m wearing braids or my half wig setup, this gel is essential. Strong hold, beautiful definition, and most importantly, it helps keep excess moisture in the air from turning my hair against me. The perfect curly hair styling product.

Honorable Mentions

10 Packs of Red Altoids. Self explanatory. There are kissing challenges. I also would love this for myself right now as my everyday stash.

Donna Karan Cashmere Mist Deodorant. WITH ALUMINIUM, I am so serious about this. Also important to note: this is an antiperspirant, which means we are actively reducing sweat production.

Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid + Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif. Fragrance is a non-negotiable. Traveling with a bunch of fragrances makes me nervous, so I narrowed it down. These two are light, feminine, tropical enough for the setting, and consistently get me compliments. The perfect villa rotation.

Final Thoughts

Okay, I think that covers everything I’d need for six weeks on one of the most watched reality shows in America. Production would absolutely hate me and the labels they would need to cover. The girls would probably be borrowing half my products.

Clearly I’m less concerned about winning the $100,000 and more concerned with leaving the villa with brand deals. Priorities.

So now I’m curious…

What beauty products would you absolutely need if you were spending six weeks in the Love Island villa?

With introspection and innovation,

Sincerely,

Sincer— Oops!

$ky

So I’ve been on the hunt for makeup formulated to actually work with your skin during these summer months. And of course, I found some interesting formulations that may become my new summer staples — ones that won’t melt off our faces.

Typical liquid and cream formulations are oil or silicone based, which means they sit right on top of our skin. Thanks to innovation and technology, brands can now make these formulations with a glowy, sheer, or skin-like finish to work across skin types and give consumers more options for how we want to look.

Powder formulas have also evolved, from majority talc-based to being formulated with mica, starch, and silica carriers.

Both of these bases don’t play well with water… or sweat. Thankfully, there’s a not-so-secret third option: water-based products. These formulas typically work in three key components — a water phase, an emulsifier, and surprisingly, a small amount of oil. Since our skin is made up of lipids that adhere best to oil, that small oil content makes the formula more compatible with skin and prevents patchiness. The emulsifier is what stabilizes everything together so it doesn’t separate. Think of butter as an everyday emulsion — there’s water, fat, and the milk proteins holding it all together.

Since sweat is 99% water, the more water in a formula, the less likely it is to be disrupted by sweat… or the occasional summer rain shower.

A couple of brands have been formulating with mostly water for an ultra-natural, dry-down finish. Surprising to me (but maybe not to you), Chanel is one of them. My pockets are screaming. And Refy is another.

Chanel’s ‘Water-Fresh’ line of tints, complexion, and blush is made of 60% water-gel with micro-bubble pigments that release on application. The micro-bubble delivery through their pump packaging is what makes it unique. Refy’s Watercolors take a different approach, packaged in a compact, and also include skin-caring ingredients like a ceramide complex to strengthen skin and green tea water for soothing.

Both formulas are innovative in their own right, but the real test is how well they hold up commuting through a subtropical climate and the hellish heat of NYC subway stations.

Stains are their own category. They typically contain little to no oil and higher amounts of alcohol, which speeds up dry-down and helps color penetrate the skin. They’re also often made with dyes instead of pigments. Dyes dissolve and bond to our skin cells, which is what gives them their longevity and also why they feel like they become apart of your skin rather than sitting on top of it.

The tradeoff? Mistakes are easier to make and will last all day… or two. But that staying power is also the whole point— stains are mostly used on cheeks and lips as a base, so if all else fails, the color is still there at the end of the night after all the food and drinks. All you have to do is reapply a gloss.

Some stains are even oil-based, or oil-in-water, which provides moisture on application but a much slower dry-down. Once the oil fades, the color should still remain.

Some of my recent stain favorites:

• Milk Makeup Cooling Jelly Tint Lip & Cheek Blush Stain

• Huda Beauty Lip Contour Lip Stain

• Benefit Cosmetics Benetint Liquid Lip Tint & Cheek Stain

Curious about but haven’t tried:

• Summer Fridays Lip Stain

• Gucci Oil-in-Water Hydrating Lip Stain

Of course, these can’t replace a full beat, but I’m hoping they’ll prevent the melt and keep a semi-fresh face through the hottest months of the year. I’ll definitely be implementing these as my daily go-to and building on them with powders for more coverage when needed. I’m also excited to see how brands continue to innovate with majority water-based formulations.

With Innovation & Introspection,
$ky

Friends of mine in dance and at school would get spray tans with names like “the Kardashian tan” before events and performances. In cheer and dance, spray tans were encouraged to some so the stage lights wouldn’t wash them out, while my main concern was finding the right red lip.

But over the last year, something has shifted. Not only have I seen more Black women embrace bronzing as a makeup step— especially now that brands have become far more inclusive in shade and undertone across all product categories — but I’ve also started seeing Black women self-tan. At-home lotions, foams and serums that process overnight and bronze your skin. Tanning salons offering professional spray tans for deeper complexions. It’s a whole conversation, and “self tan on darker skin” on TikTok has nearly 100 million views.

Whenever I see a beauty conversation getting this loud, I have to do my digging. So let’s get into it! What is self-tanner actually doing, why does it work on deeper skin tones, and is it worth trying?

Safe Sunning

I’m all for the glow. A little bronzing gives you that confident, inner radiance that winter slowly drains away. It can make you look a bit more snatched, bring out the freckles on your face, and honestly just lift your mood. But the best way to get that glow year-round without paying for it later is self-tanner.

Here’s why UV tanning is the problem: UV radiation comes in two main forms. UVB causes sunburn and is the primary driver of skin cancer risk. UVA penetrates deeper and accelerates photoaging over time. The thing people often miss is that a “base tan” from sun exposure provides essentially no protective benefit. It is your skin in distress, producing melanin as a damage response. Self-tanner delivers the visual result of that bronzed look without triggering any of that, and hopefully can encourage you to wear body SPF when outside this summer.

One important clarification: self-tanner does not provide SPF protection on its own (unless the formula specifically includes it, and most don’t). The “less sun” benefit is behavioral, not chemical. When you already have the glow, you’re less tempted to chase it outside. SPF still has to be part of your routine. Yes, even us. In my recent post All the Glowing Girls are Wearing Sunscreen you can find some of my recent fav SPFs to pair with your self-tanner!

How Self-Tanner Works.

The active ingredient in virtually every self-tanner is DHA — dihydroxyacetone, a sugar-derived compound. When you apply it, DHA reacts with amino acids in the outermost layer of your skin (aka the stratum corneum) to produce brown-colored compounds called melanoidins. Scientists call this the Maillard reaction, it’s the same basic chemistry that browns bread in the oven.

DHA has nothing to do with your actual melanin. It doesn’t stimulate melanin production at all. The color lives only in dead skin cells in that top layer, which is why it fades as you naturally exfoliate (five to seven days). Your skin isn’t in defense mode. It’s just glowing.

Is Self-Tanner Inclusive?

The DHA reaction works on every skin tone because it’s reacting with amino acids, not melanin. But the result reads differently depending on your complexion .

Older self-tanner formulas were notorious for reading orange on lighter skin, a side effect of how the melanoidins developed against a low-melanin baseline. On deeper skin tones, with more eumelanin already present, those same warm melanoidins tend to read as a richer, more golden bronze. The result layers with your natural undertone rather than fighting it.

Here’s where color theory comes in, and this part is what I find interesting. All skintones can take on what dermatologists call a sallow look: a complexion that’s lost its natural color and taken on a dull, grayish cast. What’s happening is that the cooler, desaturated undertones in the skin become more visible when the skin is dry, stressed, or dehydrated. Or what we call ashy.

Self-tanner’s melanoidins skew warm gold and brown tones. Those warm tones optically counteract the cooler, purplish-gray cast of winter skin. It’s color theory working in your favor: adding warmth cancels out the dullness. So even without a tan-line effect, a well-applied self-tanner gives your skin what I’d call a base glow. An evenness, a warmth, a depth that reads as healthy and alive.

My Product Criteria

Full disclosure: I haven’t personally tested a self-tanner yet. But here’s what I’ve been looking for as I’ve been researching this.

Formula texture matters more than people talk about. Most at-home self-tanners are leave-on treatments. You apply them and wait for color to develop over several hours, often overnight. That means a sticky formula is a problem. I’d be looking for something lightweight that absorbs quickly and dries down without the wet pajama situation.

Transfer and staining is the other real concern. Dark self-tanner on light sheets is a whole thing. Another reason why a fast dry-down time is preferred. Most people wear dark, loose clothing (or clothes they don’t care too much about) on tanning days for staining concerns.

And of course: does it actually show up on deeper skin tones? Not just “works for medium skin,” but for deep and very deep complexions too. The brands getting this right are the ones explicitly formulating across the full depth range and not just extending the light-to-medium scale by one shade.

Don’t expect tan lines that’s not what these products do. What you should notice after full development time (usually 6–8 hours, sometimes overnight) is a visible, even warmth across your skin. A richer, more dimensional version of your natural tone. The base glow.

Products Worth Trying

Cyklar Self-Tanning Milky Essence — Medium/Dark · The formula nerd pick. Cyklar uses both DHA and DHB (a newer sugar-based tanning agent) together, which helps prevent the orange-tone issue and extends how long the color lasts. The base is ceramides, squalane, and allantoin, so it’s actively supporting your skin barrier while the tan develops and not just sitting on top of it. Fragrance-free with a minimal self-tanner scent, lightweight milk texture, and available specifically for medium-to-deep skin tones.

Jergens Natural Glow Daily Moisturizer — Medium to Deep · The low-commitment entry point. It doubles as your regular body lotion, so the color builds gradually over several days and you control the depth. No overnight commitment, no transfer anxiety. Just use it like your normal routine and watch the glow accumulate.

St. Tropez Self Tan Purity Vitamins Bronzing Face Serum · If you want to start smaller, start with your face. This serum pairs DHA with Vitamin C (which does real brightening work on its own) and hyaluronic acid, so on deeper skin tones the result reads as radiance more than “tanned.” Mix it into your moisturizer to dial back the intensity.

Self-tanner was not built with us in mind. The original formulas, the shade ranges, the marketing imagery — none of it was. But the science behind DHA is skin-tone agnostic, and the brands actually doing the work of formulating for deeper complexions are producing results that look genuinely beautiful on us.

The glow you’re seeing Black women post this spring is chemistry. And going into summer, this is a trend worth trying!

With Innovation & Introspection,

$ky

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I’d watch her get ready for church, events, parties. I was her +1 to the hair salon every Saturday. She did my “makeup” — a touch of blush, a sweep of eyeshadow, some lipgloss — for my dance recitals and cheer competitions. I played in her makeup (still do) until she finally bought me my own. And of course, she was behind every lengthy wash day at the sink.

But I’ve learned that so much of beauty has nothing to do with the makeup we wear or how we style our hair. It runs deeper than that. It’s the way we show up in the world. The way we speak to ourselves, the way we treat others, and the way we care for our own needs.

In honor of Mother’s Day, here are the beauty and life lessons from my mom that have shaped the way I show up and feel beautiful.

Be around people who inspire you.

If you asked me for the single best piece of advice my mom ever gave me, it’s this. It started when I was in school: “Hang around people who are smarter than you.” Academically, it kept me sharp. But more than that, it kept me hungry and always wanting to learn more and do better. As an adult, “smarter” evolved into “inspiring.” Being around people with clear passions who are actively chasing them pushes me to keep designing, keep dreaming, keep going. Once I got clear on my own vision, I stopped moving through life on a “go with the flow” post-grad autopilot and started walking with real intention.

Stay loyal to what works, but stay open to what’s new.

My mom has always had her infamous blue jar of La Prairie skin caviar cream — completely off-limits, as it’s very expensive. If I looked at it too hard, she’d essentially lock it away on a shelf I couldn’t reach. She’s always been open to trying new moisturizers, and has ended up loving a few that she keeps in her rotation. But her La Prairie? That’s her old faithful. Always there when she needs it and the closest thing to an at home spa day. In a world of trying the newest viral product, and constant innovation, consistency is still where you’ll see the best results. Let this be a reminder: you can explore without abandoning what already works for you.

Sometimes all you need is concealer and lipgloss.

When you’re feeling lazy or short on time, a little concealer goes a long way and you’ll look more awake and probably feel it too. (Full disclosure: when I tell myself I’m just doing concealer, I somehow always end up adding a brow fill, some cheek tint, and reaching for the brown mascara. Still quick. Still easy. Rarely just the concealer though.) Concealer is like a cup of coffee for your under-eyes— feeling more awake via concealer is sometimes the placebo we need to move with more intention throughout the day.

Fragrance is non-negotiable.

My mom doesn’t have a single signature scent— she has too many to pick just one. She’ll rotate through favorites depending on the season or her mood. But her real signature? She always smells good. Layering with a rich body cream and investing in quality fragrance is her secret to making it last all day. Because of her, I feel off without a spritz before I leave the house. A travel size perfume will always be a saving grace.

“It’s okay to be comfortable, but you don’t have to be comfortable all the time.”

She said this after I told her I wanted to develop my personal style, and she knows comfort is my love language. But I’ve carried these words far beyond my closet. I think about them when I’m mapping out my future, figuring out what I want next in my career, deciding what kind of person I want to become. Growth requires us to expand our capacity, and expansion is uncomfortable. Some outfits simply cannot be worn with Crocs — and sometimes, the slight discomfort of a heel is exactly what’s needed to show up the way you mean to (this may or may not be about clothes).

There are probably so many more lessons (like her commitment to always having moisturized skin), but I’ll leave you with these for now.

I wouldn’t be who I am without my mommy’s wisdom. All my closest friends inspire me to want more every single day. I’ve had the same Maybelline mascara in my bag since 7th grade. Haus Labs concealer + Milk jelly tint + YSL brown mascara keeps me looking alive and awake. My “signature scent” is really just whichever of my 20 fragrances I reach for that morning. And I may start incorporating a heeled shoe a few times a week.

Happy (Belated) Mother’s Day to every mom who showed us how to be beautiful — by example, by letting us play in their makeup, raid their closets, and sneak a spritz of their perfume. 💘

With introspection and innovation,

$ky

Recently, peptides have gained traction on social media as a black-market injectable treatment for muscle recovery and weight loss — think alternatives to GLP-1s, aka glucagon-like peptide-1. But here’s what dermatologists have known for a while: skincare had peptides first. The beauty industry has been formulating and engineering peptide technology since the 70s.

So welcome to the world of peptides.

What Even Is a Peptide?

Let’s break down what a peptide actually is. You might remember from biology class — a peptide is a short chain of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. So a peptide is like a baby protein. Where a protein can be up to 400 amino acids, peptides are 2 to 50.

The reason peptides show up everywhere from skincare to weight loss is because they’re a massive category. Insulin is a peptide. Matrixyl is a peptide. Ozempic is a peptide. All peptides, completely different functions. One manages blood sugar, one boosts collagen, one mimics a gut hormone.

I recently came across a really good way to think about this from a fitness & medical content creator: “think of peptides like instructions, not just ingredients.” As in, they don’t just sit in your body or your skin — they signal, they communicate, they tell your cells what to do. The ones making headlines for weight loss work by mimicking natural gut hormones that regulate appetite and glucose metabolism. The ones in your serum work completely differently, cosmetic peptides improve collagen synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, or decrease inflammation.

Same family, different function. A scalpel and a butter knife are both knives, but you wouldn’t confuse them.

How Peptides Work in Skin

There are four categories of peptides in skincare worth knowing: signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides.

The biggest limitation of topical peptides is, well... that they’re topical. Cosmetic peptides have poor permeability through skin layers, which can cap their efficacy. But as formulation technology evolves, so does delivery and the industry is actively working on it.

Signal peptides — Like Matrixyl, these are active compounds that prevent aging by stimulating skin fibroblasts, resulting in collagen and elastin production.

Carrier peptides — Like copper peptides, originally developed for wound healing. They deliver trace minerals essential for skin repair and promote collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid synthesis.

Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides — Like Argireline (aka “Botox in a jar”). These inhibit the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscle contraction, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Enzyme inhibitor peptides — These inhibit the enzymes that break down collagen, helping preserve skin structure over time.

Where Are Peptides in Your Routine?

Peptides show up across your entire routine, from serums to physical eye patches to lip masks. Here’s how to think about each format:

Serums — The gold standard delivery vehicle. High concentration, best absorption. This is where you’ll find the heavy hitters like Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline.

Moisturizers — Peptides pair naturally here because they’re stable in emulsions and work well alongside supporting ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. Great for maintenance.

Eye creams & patches — The eye area is thinner and more susceptible to fine lines and dark circles, making it a perfect candidate for collagen-signaling peptides. The patch format helps with absorption and delivery.

Lip treatments — Peptides in lip products address both volume and fine vertical lines around the mouth. They help deliver on the “plumping” claim so many lip products are after… without the heat or tingle. IYKYK.

Exfoliating acids + peptides — Worth calling out specifically. Acids (AHAs, BHAs) exfoliate the surface; peptides signal repair and rebuilding underneath. When formulated correctly, they’re genuinely complementary. The acid clears the way, the peptides get to work.

So... Is It the Same as Ozempic?

No, but they’re cousins. Both peptides, both work through signaling, but the context and target are completely different. GLP-1s enter your bloodstream and act on your brain and gut. Skincare peptides stay local, communicating with skin cells specifically. Not your hypothalamus.

The reason both are having a moment is the same underlying shift: people are finally paying attention to how the body talks to itself at a molecular level. Skincare understood this assignment 30 years ago.

In 2023, Boots No7 released a line backed by 15 years of scientific research, featuring brand-new synthetic tetrapeptides — a “super peptide blend” targeting visible signs of cumulative damage. The skincare industry didn’t just discover peptides first. It’s been running laps.

The peptide conversation isn’t new. It’s just finally reached everyone else.

With introspection & innovation,

$ky

Now that we’re in April and the weather starts to lean into summer, now is the best time to skin prep — so when the sun hits, everyone’s asking what you use.

The goal is even, glowing skin. Face and body. And the best product for that is one containing an ingredient that can help clear up dark marks, protect against damage, and smooth rough texture. Sunscreen!

This is not me trying to troll you — there is serious science to back up that UV protection can help with most skin concerns, AND most of the women with beautiful glowing skin are wearing sunscreen. It’s the perfect all-in-one: it gives you glow and protection. It’s all about finding the right formula that feels and looks the best on you.

Not all UV protection is created equally — some can leave a sticky feeling, leave a white cast, some smell... well, like sunscreen, and others may cause sensitive skin to react. So I wanted to go through some categories with different options, so you can find the best sunscreen for you and look your best, protected self this summer.

Pretty$mart Science

Here’s the thing about sunscreen that doesn’t get talked about enough: it’s not just preventative, it’s corrective. UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin, generating oxidative stress and inflammation that contributes to wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Every time you skip SPF, you’re essentially giving those rays permission to undo your whole skincare routine.

The glow connection: UV protection and skin moisturization prevent dryness and can maintain or improve skin color tone uniformity, meaning consistent sunscreen use actively works to even out your complexion over time. Daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen for 52 weeks has been shown to significantly improve fine lines, mottled pigmentation, and evenness of skin tone. That’s not a serum doing that. That’s SPF.

And for anyone carrying hyperpigmentation or post-acne marks: without proper sun protection, dark marks actually get darker with UV exposure — so all the vitamin C and niacinamide in the world can only do so much if you’re not protecting the work with SPF on top.

Body UV

My favorite summer accessory is a body sunscreen. I swap my regular body oil or shimmer lotion for one with UV built in. Last summer I carried my Sol de Janeiro UV body oil everywhere — shimmer, a light scent, and sun protection all in one bottle. Not only does it protect from UV damage like sunburn (which leads to peeling and discoloration), it locks in moisture and helps with body texture.

Body UV comes in a few formats depending on your skin type and lifestyle:

Spray is the easiest to apply but because the formula has to work with an aerosol package, it can feel a little stickier — ideal for sports and activity though.

Lotion is best when replacing your everyday body lotion, just make sure you’re applying enough to hit the label SPF (more than you think).

Oil — my personal favorite. May not be fully transfer-proof so there’s a small chance of staining clothes, but it looks so good and glowy.

Pretty$mart Science

This applies to body skin too: UV exposure causes not only uneven melanin distribution, but also increased thickness of the stratum corneum — that rough, uneven texture you might notice on arms, chest, and shoulders. Consistent SPF on the body helps prevent that buildup and keeps skin looking smooth and even.

Here are some of my picks!

Spray

• Sol de Janeiro — not very sticky, light Cheirosa 87 fragrance, SPF 50, niacinamide

• Supergoop Play — SPF 50, sweat resistant, vitamin C

• La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Pro — SPF 45, sweat/water resistant, antioxidants (fun fact: official sunscreen of the US Open)

Lotion

• Supergoop Play Lotion — SPF 50, also comes in mineral (SPF 30), multiple size options

• Kopari Sunglaze Body Gel Cream — SPF 50+, sweet coconut scent, niacinamide & vitamin E

• La Roche-Posay Melt-in-Milk — SPF 100 (!!) with added antioxidants

Oil

• Kopari Sunglaze Sheer Bodymist — technically a mist but acts like an oil; 2 shades, SPF 42 & 50, non-aerosol, non-sticky

• Sol de Janeiro Body Oil — SPF 50, shimmer, Cheirosa 87 scent

• Saltair Sunscreen Body Oil — 3 scents and shades, shimmer

UV Face

With the boom of facial SPFs, there are so many amazing options for every skin type — glowy finish, sheer/skin finish, mineral for sensitive or acne-prone skin, and serum format to traditional moisturizer. The goal is finding the one that works with your skin and leaves the finish you want.

Pretty$mart Science

Physical (mineral) sunscreens contain minerals like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that sit on the surface of the skin and reflect UV rays away — like a shield. Chemical sunscreens form a thin film that absorbs UV radiation before it penetrates the skin. Both work, but they work differently — and they suit different people.

Mineral sunscreens may be preferred by people with sensitive skin or post procedure. Chemical sunscreens tend to be easier to apply evenly and provide better coverage against long-wavelength UVA rays. So if you’re acne-prone or reactive, mineral is your friend. If you want something ultra-lightweight and invisible, a well-formulated chemical SPF is the move. And for darker skin tones dealing with hyperpigmentation: tinted sunscreens contain iron oxide, which research shows helps protect against the negative effects of visible light — the kind that makes dark spots worse even on overcast days.

Here are some of my favorites:

Chemical Sunscreens

• Kiehl’s Better Screen

• Innisfree Daily UV Defense

• Youth to the People Youthscreen

• Beauty of Joseon Day Dew

• La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Air

Mineral Sunscreens

• Summer Fridays ShadeDrops Mineral Milk

• Kiehl’s Better Screen MinerALL

• Fenty Skin Hydravizor Mineral (also comes in tinted)

• Caudalie Vinosun

• Ultra Violette Future Screen Modern MinerALL

• CeraVe Invisible Mineral

Sticks & Sprays

• Innisfree Daily UV Defense Invisible Stick

• Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Balm

• ONE/SIZE On ‘Til Dawn Mattifying Sunscreen Setting Spray

• Vacation Super Stick

• Kopari Sunglaze Sheer Setting Mist Sunscreen

If you start consistent SPF now — face and body — you're giving your skin the best possible head start before the heat hits. Targeted treatments for dark spots and texture are a great addition, but SPF is what makes them stick. All the glowing girls are wearing sunscreen. Why aren’t you?

This years hottest summer accessory is SPF!

With Introspection and Innovation,

$ky

Sources for those wanting self-directed Research ;)

Stanford Medicine PubMed Central PubMed Central Smytten PubMed Central MD Anderson Cancer Center Stanford Medicine AAD

Which, if you know me, is a very fair question. I always find some way to celebrate—whether it’s a brunch, a trip, a weekend with friends. One year I even rented out a recording studio and had all my friends record a verse for a song… one that will stay in our files and not for the world to hear.

But this year is different.

As of right now, I don’t have any plans for my birthday, which feels like very foreign territory for me. Unless someone shows up, confesses their undying love, and whisks me away to St. Barts, I’ll be in my NYC apartment baking, Pinteresting, and doing a lot of praying.

25 started off really strong—full of love and hope. I traveled with the people I love deeply, from Mexico to Costa Rica. I moved to give myself more wiggle room to actually enjoy life—more baseball games, more rooftops, more weekends. I met so many inspiring people who I now consider my friends. I learned how to properly fuel and care for my body in a way that finally gave me the results I’d been working toward.

And somewhere along the way, the energy shifted.

The last six months haven’t been the kindest. One day I’ll write a Substack—or maybe even a book—when I’m ready to share. For now, it’s something I’m holding between me, my circle, and God.

Although I’m grateful for how this season has shaped me and how I’ve continued to show up through it all, I’ve found myself stuck between wanting a do-over of 25 and wanting to forget it entirely.

So instead of trying to rewrite it, I decided to design what’s next.

To imagine, curate—whatever word resonates—my dreams and desires for 26. Both the material and the immaterial. Some things I can buy. Others will require discipline, softness, faith, and commitment.

I’ve spent the last few weeks building this list… still subject to edits and in no particular order.

A mix of things I can buy, and things I can become

EADEM Le Chouchou Lip Balm in Chateau Rose & Sakura Shaved Ice
Not much explanation needed. I’m already obsessed with EADEM lip balms formula (Fig Sauce stays on me), but I’m a pink gloss girl at heart, and these shades are gorgeous on everyone.

Flowers
From others and from myself, to myself. I love having life in my apartment. Whether they’re gifted or self-bought, I want flowers around me all the time.

A wardrobe that looks & feels like me
In my head, I see myself in a chic, effervescent wardrobe—well-tailored pieces, pops of lace, color, silk, and intentional patterns. I want my closet to reflect that. And if it doesn’t feel like me once I try it on, then we can pivot.

Getting comfortable wearing heels
I love a good heel, but I tend to stop myself because of the noise, the attention that follows, and the possibility of discomfort. But as my friend Maddie said, ‘I can no longer be afraid of the sound of my own feet.’ And if that sound warrants attention, I guess I’ll have to give them a show. I need to get comfortable being uncomfortable.

Cyklar Vanilla Verve Fault Set + Oil
I can’t escape the Cyklar propaganda, so I need to see for myself. Ideally, this contributes to me becoming the perfect, yummy-smelling, glazed-donut version of myself this summer. It’s also only one letter off from Skylar so… literally perfect birthday gift!

A new job
No surprise here, especially if you read my Pretty$mart anniversary post. I want to stay working at the intersection of science and beauty but really hands on crafting the formula tech story via development.

Finding my ‘go-to’ spots in the city
I have my go-to deli and sushi spot, but beyond that? Not much. I want a bar/lounge with great design, better drinks, and amazing music (I love a good aesthetic), a coffee shop where I can work and get an occasional free coffee for my loyalty, a community garden where I can volunteer and give back. I don’t always want to rely on TikTok, I want places that know me.

Confidence in Who I am
I don’t consider myself an insecure person, but over the last few months my confidence has definitely taken a hit. I’ve been questioning who I am, what I bring to the table, what I’m capable of. By the end of 26, I want to walk into spaces fully grounded in who I am.

A new vacuum
You truly get what you pay for. I bought a super cheap one on Amazon last year and it does… absolutely nothing. I didn’t realize how much my quality of life would decrease over a bad vacuum.

The new Cécred styling line (especially the wrap foam)
This started as a simple restock of the moisture sealing lotion and detangling spray, but as of today, they launched their styling line. So now I would love to try the wrap foam for my braid-outs.

A girls trip
Already kind of in the works, but I’m so excited. I actually wrote this down as a goal for 2026 back in January. There’s something about girl talk, getting ready together, taking pictures, morning debriefs—it just refuels me.

Rhode Peptide Lip Boost in Sugarmint
The brand trip alone sold me. But paired with the reviews? I’d love to try it.

Loving fully
Myself and others—without fear and without comparison.

Reading
I love a good book. I didn’t read as much as I wanted to last year, but over Christmas I read Reel by Kennedy Ryan and got so lost in it that when it ended, it felt like heartbreak. I want more of that feeling (getting lost in a book, not heartbreak) and the only way to get it is to read more.

A new rug
I originally chose a white rug to maintain a neutral base in my apartment and let small pops of color shine through. But this might be the last time I live alone, and I want my space to reflect the color and personality I actually have.

Explore my Curiosity
I’ve found myself wanting to try new things, writing it down so I don’t forget, and leaving it in my notes…. forever. 26 is the year of actually doing and being. I want to learn how to throw (I think that’s what it’s called) and make a mug or vase on the pottery wheel.

Committing to my night routine
I love a good wind-down—skincare, hair oil, tea, a book (or even a coloring book). But when I procrastinate getting off the couch, it all falls apart. I want my nights to feel as intentional as I know they can be.

Sitting in the park as much as I can
After two blizzards and weeks of 10-degree weather, I’m not taking warm days for granted.

Colorful Bedset
I have two sets of the same dusty pink sateen sheets, and I want something different in rotation. Hommey and Brooklinen have these striped sets that feel fun and a little unexpected, something to bring more of the personality I was talking about earlier.

Letting people be there for me
This is a hard one. The last six months have been heavy, and I didn’t even tell some of my closest friends what I was going through until recently. I don’t like people worrying about me. But I’m learning that avoiding friends isn’t the answer either. I want to let people show up for me in the ways they want to.

Danessa Myricks Radiant Skin Blurring Balm
I just started seeing the radiant version everywhere, and now I need to try it. I feel like it’ll be perfect for summer.

A KitchenAid stand mixer
I’ve been putting this purchase off, but I’ve slowly gotten back into baking. And while it’s functional, it’s also just… so chic.

Writing
More consistent Substacks, yes—but also journaling. I haven’t been consistent yet, but something tells me this is the year that changes. I’ve already been journaling multiple times a day these last few weeks, even if its just a thought bubble.

A trim & a new hairstyle
I need a trim so bad. Like, so bad. And while I love my signature stretched braid-out, I want to experiment more. I think of the style icons from 90s/2000s Black sitcoms—Raven Baxter, Ashley Banks, Moesha, The Parkers. I just need patience and a little trial and error.

Pray
Every. Single. Day.

Say yes more
I want to be financially responsible, of course—but I also don’t want to miss out on the experiences life is placing in front of me.

26 things I want for 26.

I don’t know exactly what this year will look like.

But I do know I want it to still feel like me; soft, grounded, joyful, and a little more certain.

This time next year, I’ll come back to review the progress, the pivots, the things I grew into and the things I let go of.

If you made it this far, I’d love to know what you’ve called in for your year, whether it’s something from this list or something entirely your own.

Cheers to 26 🥂

With introspection & innovation,

$ky

I remember the exact moment GLP-1s started to feel inescapable. One day I woke up and it was 2012 all over again — Weight Watchers ads everywhere, weight loss as the cultural obsession du jour. Except this time, it was Ozempic.

Working in the beauty industry, where we’re basically trained to read trends like tarot cards, I knew it was only a matter of time before brands started looking for their piece of the pie. But here’s the thing: we also live in a post-(?) body positivity era where one wrong step gets you cancelled before a product even launches. So any move toward GLP-1 territory had to be thoughtful. Strategic. Science-first.

And if you’re outside the beauty bubble, you might be wondering: what does a weight loss drug have to do with moisturizer? Great question. Everything, as it turns out.

GLP-1s don’t just change the amount of fat on your body. They change the actual biology of your skin.

About 1 in 8 American adults has used or is currently using a GLP-1 medication, with prescriptions increasing by 2.9 million between September 2024 and September 2025 alone. That’s not just a niche anymore. It’s a demographic. And skincare brands are paying very close attention.

What GLP-1s Actually Do to Your Skin

You’ve probably heard the term “Ozempic face.” It was coined by a New York dermatologist to describe the hallow, sunken, prematurely aged look some patients develop after rapid weight loss on semaglutide. And while “hollowed cheeks” and “jawline sagging” sound like they’re just a fat-loss side effect, the science is more interesting (and unsettling) than that.

GLP-1 medications promote systemic fat reduction, meaning they don’t discriminate between the fat on your stomach and the fat on your face. And facial fat is actually an underrated ingredient in youthful-looking skin, it provides structural support, fullness, and that dewy plumpness we spend hundreds trying to fake with filler.

But recent research shows fat loss is only part of the story. GLP-1 receptor agonist (GLP-1RA) appear to interact with adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs). These are the cells that significantly enhance production and maturity of collagen, elastin, and naturally occurring hyaluronic acid. When the GLP-1 receptor agonist gets stimulated, these stem cells essentially lose the energy they need to do their jobs. Less energy production. Reduced collagen stimulation.

Translation? The drug isn’t just melting fat. It may be interfering with your skin’s ability to rebuild itself from the inside.

The result is skin that looks and feels structurally compromised: hollow, loose, dehydrated, lacking in bounce. And because these are the same concerns— collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, barrier function — that skincare has spent decades trying to address, the industry suddenly has a very targeted, very motivated new audience to speak to.

Pretty$mart Call out

GLP-1 users can experience depletion not only from fat loss, but collagen & elastin breakdown, and even muscle breakdown, all at the same time.

Why GLP-1 Users Are a Goldmine for Clinical Testing

Here’s where it gets strategically fascinating.

Like I said earlier, GLP-1s have become a widely used medication so the population is large, relevant, and cross-generational with accelerated aging effects. Literally the jackpot of a testing population.

Brands are approaching this testing opportunity in a few different ways:

Formulated and tested exclusively for GLP-1 users. The most differentiated play: building a product from the ground up with GLP-1 skin biology in mind, then running trials exclusively within that population. The limitation? Since most GLP-1 skin concerns also exist in the general population, a product that only speaks to GLP-1 users may be unnecessarily narrowing its own market.

Tested on GLP-1 users as a validation layer. This is the approach I find most compelling — and the most honest. A product designed for general anti-aging is additionally tested on a GLP-1 cohort to demonstrate that it works on this specific population’s specific concerns. It’s not pretending that a completely new molecule is required to address Ozempic face. It’s saying: we tested this on the people who need it most, and here’s what happened.

Repositioned with GLP-1 framing. The most budget-friendly move, and the one worth eyeing with a degree of skepticism. An existing product gets new packaging language calling out GLP-1 concerns, with no new clinical work behind it. Not inherently dishonest since plenty of existing actives genuinely do address these concerns, but it’s the approach least backed by evidence. You’ll know it when you see it.

Case Study IRL: La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5

This is the launch that inspired this whole piece and I think it represents the gold standard for how a derm brand should engage with the GLP-1 population.

La Roche-Posay didn’t create a new product and slap “GLP-1” on the label. They renovated their existing Hyalu B5 Serum, upgrading it to a four-hyaluronic-acid system designed to deliver hydration deeper into the skin, and then ran a dedicated consumer study specifically on GLP-1 users.

112 GLP-1 users. Each presenting with at least 3 skin concerns. Hyalu B5 Suractivated Serum + Cream twice-daily use for 4 weeks. 94% felt their concerns were effectively addressed. 90% reported smoother, firmer, and more radiant skin.

What makes this study design meaningful isn’t just the sample size, it’s the inclusion criteria. Participants had to be on a GLP-1 medication and present with at least three concurrent skin concerns. They weren’t testing on people with generally dry skin and calling it a GLP-1 study. They were testing on a population with measurable, multi-symptom skin changes that could be attributed to the medication.

It also makes sense for this brand specifically. La Roche-Posay conducts over 700 clinical studies on more than 200,000 patients, including cancer patients, people with eczema, and people with highly compromised skin. Adding a GLP-1 cohort isn’t a pivot. It’s completely consistent with how they’ve always operated.

The honest caveat: this was a consumer study, meaning participants reported how their skin felt which is not an objective, quantitative measurement. For comparison, SkinCeuticals took a different approach with their A.G.E. Interrupter Ultra. A smaller cohort of just 25 GLP-1 patients, but in a double-blind, randomized, split-face clinical trial with objective laxity measurements. Neither approach is the definitive answer, but together they show the range of how rigorous GLP-1 testing can look and signal that the more quantitative studies are coming.

The Bigger Question

Here’s what I keep thinking about as someone who genuinely loves the intersection of science and beauty: GLP-1 users aren’t just a marketing opportunity. They’re a genuinely interesting clinical population.

Younger people, some in their 20s and 30s, are taking these medications. Some of them are experiencing skin changes that typically happen to people decades older. Which means that if brands start studying this cohort rigorously, we might learn things about skin recovery, collagen regeneration, and anti-aging efficacy that we couldn’t learn from a standard aging population.

Anti-aging products are notoriously hard to study because the aging process is slow, gradual, and affected by a million variables. But what happens when you test an anti-aging product on skin that has aged prematurely and rapidly — from a known cause, not from the sun, not from genetics — and you measure what comes back?

I’m excited to see where brands go from here, especially as we start to understand the longer-term skin effects of these medications. The science is new. The questions are open. And the brands willing to do the real clinical work, rather than just the marketing reframe, are going to be the ones worth watching.

As we continue to learn about the effects of long-term GLP-1 usage, I’m interested to see how haircare brands may enter the conversation.

With innovation & introspection,

$ky

Now I’ve been noticing a different kind of trend: foods going viral under the PR of “big protein.” But what’s been most interesting to me lately is the idea of eating your skincare.

My mom is still recovering from when I told her a few days ago that sardines are trending for their potential skincare benefits—and that a popular canned fish company (albeit very aesthetic) is selling a 3-pack tin of sardines for a whopping $32.

For context on why this short-circuited her brain: sardines are known in the Black community as an easy, inexpensive protein—some might even call them a “struggle meal.” So $32 for three small tins definitely does not fall into the “cheap” category.

Aside from the price, she’s still trying to understand why my generation is willingly going out to buy sardines—and not just buy them, but make them trendy to the point of selling out.

What she doesn’t realize is that sardines sit at the center of a perfect storm of trends.

They’re high in protein and macros (hello, big protein), they can still be relatively affordable depending on the brand (important in a chaotic economy), and now they’re being credited with making your skin glow.

But sardines are far from the only food people are eating for their skin.

Bone broth and powdered peptides stirred into coffee or smoothies for collagen.
Homemade juices for glowing skin.
Salmon and tinned fish for omega-3s.
Fruits and vegetables for antioxidants.

Some have even gone as far as to say that eating carrot salad can replace retinol.

Admittedly, I do like sardines. But I started eating them because when I was eight years old I thought I was a mermaid and Aquamarine said sardines were a delicacy.

Anyway, I picked them up again recently and my opinion still stands: they’re good—but not everyday good (in my opinion).

I’m fully in support of eating a diet of whole foods across all food groups. Our bodies need them to function properly and maintain good health (and please still go to the doctor).

But if someone comes to me asking how to address a skin concern, I’m not going to recommend adding a miracle food to their diet and waiting to see what happens.

And here’s why.

The Physiology

Although the skin is the largest organ in the body, it is not a priority organ when it comes to nutrient distribution.

Our bodies operate on a nutrient hierarchy designed for survival.

The brain, which controls our vital systems, directs nutrients first to organs that are essential to keeping us alive—like the brain itself, the heart, the liver, the kidneys, and other metabolic processes.

Skin sits much lower on that priority list.

Of course we need our skin. It protects us from external aggressors and acts as a barrier between our internal systems and the outside world. But biologically speaking, the body is designed to prioritize survival before aesthetics.

If I’m dehydrated and drink water, I would certainly hope my body sends that hydration to my brain and heart before worrying about my glow.

When we eat, nutrients are absorbed in the gut and distributed through the bloodstream. From there they are used by vital organs first. What remains is metabolized, stored, or excreted.

Only a small portion ultimately reaches the skin.

And even once nutrients reach the skin, they must still move through its layers.

The skin is composed of three primary layers:

• Hypodermis – the deepest layer, responsible for cushioning and insulation
• Dermis – where collagen, elastin, and structural support live
• Epidermis – the outermost layer responsible for barrier protection and water retention

When nutrients do reach the skin, they support deeper processes like hydration, collagen production, and elasticity within the dermis.

But if the outermost layer of the skin—the epidermis—is dehydrated or compromised, those internal improvements may not immediately translate to visible results.

Which is why skin health is best supported when diet and topical skincare work together.

Pretty$mart Call-Out

Skin takes about 28 days to fully renew itself.

So the small portion of nutrients we consume today may not appear on the surface of the skin we see until roughly a month later—and only if those habits are consistent.

Topical skincare follows a similar timeline. Many ingredients need about one full skin cycle to show visible results.

Note: Food sensitivities can absolutely trigger skin reactions (for example dairy contributing to inflammation or acne in some people). That is very different from the idea that certain foods can function like skincare products.

Eat vs Apply

Many of the ingredients trending in wellness culture like bone broth, collagen powders, and fermented foods are rooted in real biology.

But when consumed, they must compete with the body’s vital organs for nutrients.

Topical skincare bypasses that hierarchy entirely, delivering active ingredients directly to the skin, where they can influence collagen production, barrier repair, and pigmentation.

Eating = systemic support
Topicals = targeted delivery

Eating collagen may support joints, connective tissue, and overall protein intake.

But topical ingredients like retinoids can actually stimulate more collagen.

Collagen Support

Drink Bone broth → Apply retinoids

Drink Collagen powder → Apply peptides

Barrier Repair

Eat Sardines / omega-3 → Apply ceramides

Eat Avocado → Apply squalane

Antioxidants

Drink Matcha → Apply green tea extract

Eat / Drink Citrus → Apply vitamin C

You can look for these ingredients in formulated skincare products that work for you depending on your skin type.

What These Ingredients Actually Do

Retinoids → stimulate collagen production, increase skin cell turnover, control hyperpigmentation

Vitamin C / Antiox → free radical protection, collagen support, brightness

Peptides → signal collagen production and support skin repair

Ceramides → strengthen the skin barrier and reduce water loss

Be Balanced

Nutrition absolutely supports overall skin health—but it can’t do it alone, especially when addressing specific skin concerns.

I could drink a gallon of water a day and still need to apply moisturizer morning and night.

Our skin performs best when internal health and external care work together.

So yes, eat the sardines.
Drink the bone broth.

But don’t forget about your serum, moisturizer, and SPF.

Skincare works better on your face than on your plate.

With innovation & introspection,

$ky

So first things first: Happy Birthday Pretty$mart 🎂

And thank you to the 57+ subscribers who continue to support this little creative corner of the internet. I’m so grateful Pretty$mart has grown into the intersection of beauty, culture, and science that I hoped it could become, and I’m excited to see what the next year brings—and who we get to reach along the way.

While rereading my first post, Barretts, Braids, & Bratz, I realized something: I never actually explained what I do in beauty.

Which is funny, because that was originally what I planned to write about—before realizing we had a birthday to celebrate.

The inspiration for this piece came, as many things do, from my friends. It’s funny how most of us don’t actually know what our friends do for work. We might know where they work, whether they’re hybrid or in-office, maybe even their title—but we couldn’t really describe what their day-to-day looks like or the projects they’re working on.

For me, learning what people actually do has always been inspiring. It expands what feels possible.

I also get messages on LinkedIn from aspiring beauty professionals who see my experience and want to know how they might enter similar spaces. On a more personal note, coming from a biology and research background, I was extremely nervous about entering the beauty industry. Science isn’t the most traditional path into marketing.

But the truth is: beauty is science.

I just knew I didn’t want to be in the lab, at the bench—been there, done that.

Since entering the industry, I’ve discovered so many roles and niches I didn’t know existed, and those discoveries have shaped how I think about what’s next for me.

So let’s dive into what I’ve done—and where I hope to go next.

And since we’re friends, if someone asks what I do… maybe you’ll finally be able to answer properly 😉

How I Found My Way Into Beauty

During my senior year at Spelman College, I realized I wanted to work in beauty in the corporate capacity. I started reaching out to anyone who would respond—networking, asking questions, trying to understand where someone with a science background might fit.

What I knew was this: I wanted to use my scientific training to help translate ingredient technology into something meaningful for consumers. I was also deeply drawn to the innovation side of product. Most roles that fit that intersection live in global product development or innovation marketing.

Then a role appeared that felt almost custom-built:
Science Support, Junior Marketing Associate on the Kiehl’s global marketing team.

I applied, interviewed—and started about a month later.

By the time I joined, the team name had evolved to Science Communication & Support. My first year was as an intern, and the following 2.5 years I worked as a project manager / assistant manager.

Science communications is incredibly niche—many brands don’t even have a function like it. I feel lucky that I was able to lean so deeply into the science of skincare during my time there.

For 3.5 years, my work focused on:

• Leading science-based third-party partnerships
• Developing medical and scientific insights for UV, acne, and hair innovations
• Collaborating cross-functionally with education, social, and R&I lab teams in the US and France
• Helping evolve how we translated scientific research into consumer-facing storytelling

Some of the partnerships I led included collaborations with The Skin Cancer Foundation, National Eczema Association, National Psoriasis Foundation, and The Rosacea Society, among others that have not launched yet.

These partnerships allowed Kiehl’s to connect meaningfully with dermatologists and communities living with these skin conditions—without operating inside medical offices, like CeraVe or La Roche-Posay. My role involved coordinating with our US and France Research & Innovation labs to ensure the proper clinical testing was conducted, aligning timelines so we could submit applications and secure recognition seals in time for product launches.

On the innovation side, every product begins with both a consumer insight and a scientific insight. My focus was helping identify the medical/ scientific grounding behind new UV, acne, and hair innovations by staying up to date with emerging research and literature.

And occasionally, my work spilled into the more unexpected corners of beauty science—supporting social and education teams with science-backed FAQs, product “hacks,” and scripts for content.

What is “Science Communications” in Beauty?

Most beauty brands have three major pillars behind a product:

• R&D / Labs – the chemists who create the formula
• Product Development / Marketing – the team shaping the product concept and formula approval
• Science Communications – the bridge translating research, testing, and ingredients into language consumers can actually understand

TLDR: turning clinical data into a product story.

What’s Next

If you ask me what I’d love to do next, the answer is simple:

Continue working at the intersection of science and beauty.

For me, that currently looks like two potential paths.

The first is global product development. Working closely with the Kiehl’s PD team made me appreciate the artistry and precision behind creating a product from scratch. It’s a role that truly feels like being the architect of a formula—using all your senses to craft something that fills a gap in the market and resolves a real consumer tension.

Although I had a window into that process, I’d love the opportunity to own the full lifecycle of a product and managing the clinical testing behind a product to further speak to the consumer.

The second path might seem completely different: social.

But when you think about where most consumers learn about beauty today, the answer is obvious—social media. Science still matters there, but the balance shifts toward storytelling: translating complex information into something that’s engaging, digestible, and culturally relevant.

Two very different roles—but both centered on the same thing I love:
connecting science to the beauty consumer.

The job market right now is… tough.

But I’ve seen opportunities emerging in both of these spaces, and I’m excited to see where I land and how the experience shapes my perspective on an industry that is constantly evolving.

The past year has been a whirlwind. I can’t say I’ve loved every moment of it—but it has absolutely reshaped me.

And as Olivia Dean sings in one of my favorite songs, Baby Steps:

“Fall forward.”

With Innovation & Introspection,

$ky

I never felt naturally skilled at it. When I did try to practice for fun, there were always extra steps: mixing concealers, adjusting undertones, learning just enough color theory to keep my foundation from pulling yellow. What I didn’t realize at the time was that this wasn’t a personal limitation, it was a product one.

As this second installment of The Architecture of Black Beauty, it’s important to set the scene for color cosmetics before influencers — rightfully — began calling out brands for their lack of range. Shade inclusivity wasn’t just limited; it was largely nonexistent for anyone with even a drop of melanin. And beyond shade, the formulations themselves were unforgiving.

Black women mixed multiple foundations to get the right depth and undertone (if it was even possible). Setting powders left a white cast, amplified by flash photography (hello, flashback Mary). Lipsticks pulled muddy or gray. “Universal” nude shades flattened our skin tones instead of enhancing them. Many of these formulas relied on mineral fillers, high alcohol content, and rigid matte bases that sat on top of texture — showing up as dry, chalky, or ashy on melanated skin.

So we adapted. Oils under makeup long before “skin prep” was coined. Powder avoided altogether. We learned which finishes photographed well and which didn’t. Our relationship with makeup wasn’t rooted solely in self-expression but also problem-solving.

The industry shifted dramatically when Fenty launched with 50 shades, instead of extending deeper tones as an afterthought. To this day, complexion launches, from foundation to tinted sunscreen, still benchmark against Fenty’s original shade architecture. While this piece doesn’t focus on Fenty or Rihanna, it’s important to acknowledge the glass ceiling that shattered.

Today’s innovators have taken inclusion further, beyond shade count, and redesigned makeup at every level: artistry, brand identity, and formulation.

Artistry as Innovation: Danessa Myricks

When I think of Danessa Myricks, I think of texture innovation. As a makeup artist, she creates products with artistry as the starting point…not marketing.

Her approach redefined how makeup is used. Through multi-use, modular formulas designed for eyes, lips, face, and complexion, she built a system rather than a single outcome. Her pigment-first philosophy ensures color payoff across all skin depths and undertones.

What stands out most is her Yummy Skin Blurring Balm Powder technology — a platform innovation used across primers, foundations, blushes, and bronzers. Despite offering a relatively concise shade range (including universal options), the technology adapts seamlessly across skin types and tones due to its skin-melting, flexible structure.

Danessa didn’t just make blur and soft-matte finishes trendy, she rebuilt mattifying technology so it works with real skin, especially melanin-rich skin.

Pretty$mart Science: Blurring Balm Powder Technology

A hybrid emollient-to-powder system creates a satin, soft-focus finish without traditional talc-driven dryness. It absorbs excess oil while maintaining flexibility, offering forgiveness on textured skin rather than exposing it.

Intentional Shade Authority Through Focus: Diarrha N’Diaye-Mbaye

Ami Colé left an undeniable mark on beauty and it deserves its flowers.

While the brand faced challenges scaling prematurely without sufficient funding and infrastructure, its impact on the industry was significant. Ami Colé represented a clean beauty vision that centered Black women, not as an extension, but as the priority.

Black women have embodied the “clean girl” aesthetic long before it had a name. Ami Colé formalized that reality with formulations that enhanced rather than erased our features. What set the brand apart was its intentional limitation: instead of expanding into deeper shades, those shades were the foundation of the line.

By centering medium-to-deep skin tones — historically excluded from clean beauty — Diarrha established authority. Her undertone-first formulations proved that clean can be designed for black skin.

By not trying to serve everyone, Ami Colé made one thing clear: this brand was built for us first. Inclusion isn’t about endless expansion but precision and intention.

Undertone Correction at the Pigment Level: Balanda Atis

At the core of today’s “where’s-the-foundation?” lies formulation science and chemist Balanda Atis.

Working within one of the world’s largest beauty conglomerates, Balanda introduced blue pigment into foundation systems, fundamentally shifting undertone inclusivity. She researched skintones from people around the world and through this research realized ultramarine blue (rich blue color pigment) was what was missing from formulation.Blue pigment neutralizes excess warmth and orange pull, an issue that disproportionately affects deeper shades.

This innovation scaled across mass and prestige brands, including Maybelline, L’Oréal Paris, Armani, and Lancome. Rather than adding more shades, Balanda improved how shades behave on real skin.

Her work reframed shade matching as a chemical problem, not a marketing one. While professional artists have long relied on blue, purple, and green correctors to tweak formulas manually, Balanda embedded this logic directly into consumer-facing products, making accurate matches more accessible.

Inclusivity doesn’t live in shade names or swatch photos. It lives in the pigment system.

Together, these innovators prove that modern makeup wasn’t built by offering more options, it was built by changing the technology, the formulation logic, and the reference point.

Happy Black History Month to Danessa, Diarrha, Balanda — and to everyone who made it this far.

With introspection and innovation,
$ky

With the start of Black History Month, I couldn’t help but look around my bathroom—at the products, the accessories, the tools—and reflect on how deeply Black people have shaped this industry and my experience within it.

The range of complexion makeup that considers not only depth but undertone. Hair products intentionally packaged to actually reach the scalp of textured hair. Skincare tested across the full spectrum of Fitzpatrick tones to ensure safety and efficacy for everyone.

These aren’t small wins. They are major feats—made possible because Black innovators understood that beauty was never just superficial, and that change was necessary.

That realization made me want to do my own due diligence: to look back at the Black innovators who came before me in the beauty industry—the ones who didn’t just include us, but fundamentally redefined the industry as a whole. Naturally, I had to start with the iconic Madam C.J. Walker, whose work shaped the beauty category that has impacted me the longest: textured haircare.

The OG introspective innovator.

To this day, I still keep hair and scalp grease in my arsenal (hello, Blue Magic).

The History

Madam C.J. Walker saw a gap—and built a solution that not only shifted the industry, but created an entirely new sector of haircare designed specifically for textured hair.

Born Sarah Breedlove in 1867, she was the first child in her family born free. She came of age during a time when Black people—especially Black women—had little to no access to healthcare, clean water, or professional guidance for hair and scalp conditions. There were no dermatologists, trichologists, or trained industry experts thinking about our needs.

The harmful misconception that “Black people don’t have long hair” still echoes today. But historically, hair loss, dandruff, and scalp infections were common not because of hair type—but because the tools, information, and products simply didn’t exist for us.

Madam C.J. Walker experienced hair loss herself. And instead of accepting it as inevitable, she quite literally got in the lab—her kitchen—and started experimenting.

The Legacy

The product that put Madam C.J. Walker on the map was Madam C.J. Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower.

This was a scalp treatment and conditioning salve that reframed hair growth as a function of scalp health. The Hair Grower was designed to:

• Soothe irritation

• Reduce dandruff and flaking

• Protect the scalp barrier

The formulation is believed to have included:

• Petrolatum — for moisture retention

• Sulfur — for antimicrobial and anti-dandruff benefits

• Botanical oils — for conditioning and barrier support

When I think about modern formulations with similar claims—Blue Magic, Sulfur8—I can’t help but laugh. Madam C.J. Walker, you were so ahead of your time.

The Innovation

Why her formulation logic still holds up

Although Madam C.J. Walker didn’t have access to modern cosmetic chemistry, her formulation logic aligns closely with what science confirms today.

Scalp-first philosophy
Walker treated hair loss as a scalp condition. Today, trichology and dermatology affirm that follicle health begins with a healthy scalp barrier.

Ingredients mattered (even then)
Early hair treatments of the era often relied on harsh alkaline agents like lye, which disrupted the scalp barrier, increased irritation, and worsened breakage over time. Through observation and experience, Walker moved away from damaging approaches and toward ingredients that supported the scalp rather than stripped it.

This instinct—to reformulate based on real-world results—is foundational to modern cosmetic science.

Occlusion = moisture retention
Petrolatum is still considered the gold-standard occlusive, reducing transepidermal water loss and protecting compromised skin.

Sulfur for scalp balance
Sulfur remains an active ingredient in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis treatments due to its antifungal and antibacterial properties.

Massage as a delivery system
Her method emphasized scalp massage, which increases blood flow and supports nutrient delivery to hair follicles.

Routine over miracles
Walker sold a system: cleanse, treat, massage, protect.
Modern haircare still relies on this exact framework.

The Impact

Black beauty innovation has always been rooted in problem-solving and lived experience—long before this approach became an industry standard (a shift we’ve really only seen in the last decade).

Honoring Madam C.J. Walker was a no-brainer. The haircare routine she created, rooted in her own lived experience, wasn’t just about vanity (though that alone would’ve been reason enough). It was healthcare.

And beyond innovation, she was an entrepreneur in the truest sense—not simply because she became the first self-made female millionaire, but because she educated and employed thousands of Black women to carry her philosophy forward. The same framework professional haircare brands still rely on today.

Madam C.J. Walker didn’t just make hair products.
She designed a system—one centered on care, education, and economic empowerment.

That isn’t just beauty history.
That’s innovation by design.

Next up: Danessa Myricks and Diarrha Ndiaye—two approaches to inclusive makeup, both engineered with intention.

With innovation & introspection,
$ky

And unsurprisingly, the first thing that comes to mind is my beauty routine.

After working in the beauty industry for a few years, your perception of “common knowledge” gets warped. In my head, everyone knows what retinol is, how it works, when to use it, and what not to mix it with. But that’s just not true.

Outside of knowing their specific skin concerns—dark spots, acne, dryness—most people don’t actually have a solid base routine. And without that foundation, adding actives (like retinol, vitamin C, or exfoliating acids) often does more harm than good.

So naturally, I wanted to create Skincare for Dummies—a guide for anyone who’s just getting into skincare, feels overwhelmed, or simply wants a routine that protects their skin barrier and works with their skin, not against it.

This is a routine that, with consistency, supports healthy skin first—so that when you do add actives later, your skin can actually tolerate and benefit from them.

Step One: Know Your Skin Type

Before products, before ingredients, before trends—start here.

My favorite way to identify your skin type is simple:
Wash your face with any basic cleanser and don’t apply anything afterward.

Wait 10–20 minutes, then gently press your skin and look in the mirror:

• Normal skin: Feels comfortable, maybe slightly bouncy or supple

• Dry skin: Feels tight, matte, or rough to the touch

• Oily skin: Looks shiny, especially through the T-zone

• Combination skin: Oily in some areas (forehead, nose), normal or dry elsewhere

• Sensitive skin: Less about look, more about history—if your skin easily becomes red, irritated, stings, or breaks out with new products, fragrance, or certain ingredients, you’re likely sensitive

Once you know your skin type, choosing products becomes way less overwhelming. And spoiler: the routine is more basic than you think.

Note on sensitive skin: Sensitivity isn’t one-size-fits-all. If your skin is sensitive to fragrance, choose fragrance-free versions. If it’s sensitive to exfoliating acids, avoid them. Most recommendations below can work for sensitive skin when chosen thoughtfully.

The Core Routine (The Non-Negotiables)

1. Cleanser

The job of a cleanser is to remove dirt, oil, sunscreen, and makeup—not to leave your skin feeling squeaky or stripped.

Ingredients to look for

• Gentle surfactants (especially amino-acid–based surfactants)

• Hydrating ingredients like glycerin or ceramides

Recommendations

• Dry skin:

  • CeraVe Hydrating Cream Cleanser

  • La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser

• Normal skin:

  • Kiehl’s Barrier Cleanser

  • Youth to the People Superfood Cleanser

• Oily skin:

  • La Roche-Posay Effaclar Gel Cleanser

  • CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser

$mart science moment
When cleansers are too harsh, they strip your skin of its natural oils (sebum). Your skin responds by producing more oil to compensate—often making oily skin even oilier over time. Gentle cleansing helps regulate oil, not worsen it.

2. Moisturizer

Yes—everyone needs one. Even oily skin.

Ingredients to look for

• Humectants: glycerin, hyaluronic acid (pull water into the skin)

• Emollients: squalane, fatty alcohols (smooth and soften)

• Occlusives (especially for dry skin): shea butter, petrolatum, dimethicone (seal moisture in)

Recommendations

• Dry skin:

  • CeraVe Moisturizing Cream

  • La Roche-Posay Lipikar Balm AP+

• Normal skin:

  • Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream

  • Dieux Instant Angel

• Oily skin:

  • Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel-Cream (fragrance-free)

  • La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair (Oil-Free)

• Sensitive skin:

  • Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer

  • Avène Tolerance Control Cream

$mart science moment
A healthy skin barrier is made of lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids). Moisturizers don’t just “hydrate”—they help repair and reinforce this barrier, which reduces water loss, irritation, and sensitivity over time.

3. Sunscreen (Every. Single. Morning.)

If you do nothing else consistently—do this.

Ingredients to look for

• Mineral filters: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide (great for sensitive skin)

• Chemical filters: avobenzone, octocrylene, Uvinul A Plus (lighter textures, great for oily skin)

Recommendations

• Dry skin:

  • EltaMD UV Daily SPF 40

  • La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-In Milk SPF 100

• Normal skin:

  • Innisfree Daily UV Defense SPF 26

  • Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun

• Oily skin:

  • La Roche-Posay Anthelios Clear Skin SPF 60

  • EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46

• Sensitive skin:

  • EltaMD UV Physical

$mart science moment
UV exposure is the leading cause of premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin barrier damage. Sunscreen doesn’t just prevent sunburn—it protects collagen, prevents dark spots from getting darker, and allows other skincare products to actually work.

Optional, But Helpful

Toner (Optional Step)

Think of toners as skin-supportive liquids—not harsh, alcohol-heavy astringents.

What to look for

• Hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients

• Minimal or low-dose actives

Good starter options

• Laneige Cream Skin

• Paula’s Choice Enriched Calming Toner

• Innisfree Green Tea Ceramide Milk

Why they’re useful
Toners can add hydration, prep the skin for moisturizer, and—if formulated well—be a gentle way to introduce low-dose actives without overwhelming your skin.

Actives (Intermediate → Advanced)

Once you’ve nailed cleanser + moisturizer + sunscreen consistently, then—and only then—consider actives. These come in the form of toners and serums, but can also be formulated into the core parts of your routine— sunscreens, moisturizers, and cleansers.

Quick overview

• Vitamin C: Brightening, antioxidant, helps with dark spots

• Retinol: Increases cell turnover, helps acne, texture, fine lines

• Exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA): Smooth texture, unclog pores, even tone

$mart science moment
Actives increase skin turnover or penetration. Without a healthy barrier, they’re more likely to cause irritation, inflammation, and breakouts. A strong basic routine acts like armor—allowing actives to do their job without triggering your skin.

Skincare doesn’t need to be complicated to be effective. In fact, the most transformative routines are usually the most boring ones—done consistently.

When everything else feels out of control, taking care of your skin can be a quiet, grounding ritual. One that protects, supports, and honors your body exactly where it is.

And that’s not dumb at all 💛

With Innovation & Introspection,

$ky

And while hyperpigmentation is absolutely something you manage year-round, in my humble (but very science-backed) opinion, winter is the best time to really lock in.

We’ve all heard the phrase “summer bodies are made in the winter.” Not because it’s impossible to get fit in the summer, but because winter gives you the space to be consistent, to experiment, and to do the work without fighting as many external factors.

Your skin works the same way.

In the summer, UV exposure is at its peak—and UV is one of the primary triggers of hyperpigmentation. The sun stimulates melanin production as a protective response, which is great for preventing damage, but not so great when you’re trying to fade existing dark spots or prevent new ones.

Winter is when UV levels are at their lowest, meaning one less hurdle while you’re actively correcting discoloration and setting your skin up for long-term evenness.

Even more important: some of the most effective treatments for hyperpigmentation also make your skin more sensitive to UV. So winter becomes the ideal season to introduce stronger actives and in-office treatments strategically.

Think of this as your winter arc for skin—so by summer, all you need is sunscreen, a touch of blush, and mascara. Because if you’re anything like me, the less makeup in 90° heat, the better.

Sunscreen Isn’t Seasonal

Let’s get this out of the way first: yes, even in winter, sunscreen is step one.

Think of sunscreen as insurance. You might not need it urgently every single day, but this daily habit can prevent longterm compounded damage. A walk outside, a drive in the car, sitting by a window—those little moments add up.

If you’re trying to fade dark spots in the winter, sunscreen isn’t about preventing sunburn. It’s about not undoing the work you’re doing everywhere else in your routine.

It’s like going to the gym everyday, not eating right— and expecting results. Sunscreens has an 80% weight to the 20% of your actives. In fact, most derms won’t prescribe or recommend acids until there is frequent SPF usage.

✨ $mart moment:
UV exposure signals your skin to produce pigment as protection. Sunscreen blocks that signal, giving existing dark spots a chance to fade instead of being re-activated.

Protect Your Barrier!

Winter skin is already going through it—cold air, indoor heat, long showers, and suddenly everyone wants to add acids and retinol.

Before you reach for a “fix,” ask yourself: Is my skin calm? Comfortable? Hydrated?

When your skin barrier is strong, your skin heals faster and reacts less dramatically. When it’s compromised or stressed, even small irritation can turn into a lingering dark mark.

Glowy skin isn’t just exfoliated skin, it’s supported skin.

✨ $mart moment:
A weakened barrier increases inflammation, and inflammation increases the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, aka PIH. Barrier care = prevention.

Exfoliate with an Acid!

Chemical exfoliants and professional facials get a bad reputation because people tend to overdo them, especially when the sun is high.

Winter is different.

Lower UV levels mean you can introduce exfoliation more intentionally, whether that’s gentle acids at home or in-office chemical facials. The key word here is measured.

This isn’t about peeling your face off. It’s about encouraging old, pigmented skin cells to move along so fresher, more even skin can come through.

There are 3 main types of acids and they each do their own thing. AHA’s, BHA’s, PHA’s. They work at different levels of the skin, but each are important at getting rid of hyperpigmentation, since that also is seen at multiple layers.

✨ $mart moment:
Chemical exfoliants increase cell turnover, helping pigmented cells shed more efficiently. Lower UV = lower risk of rebound pigmentation.

Retinoids Win in the Winter

Retinol doesn’t give instant gratification—and that’s why people quit it too early.

But winter is the perfect season to commit. You’re indoors more, wearing more coverage, and less exposed to sun, which makes the adjustment phase easier to manage.

Think of retinol like compound interest for your skin. It’s quietly working in the background, improving tone, texture, and clarity over time.

As you become more advanced in your skincare, you can ask a derm for a higher concentrated, prescription version of retinol (which is a derivative of vitamin A)— tretinoin, the holy grail of vitamin A’s.

✨ $mart moment:
Retinoids (vit A) normalize cell turnover and improve pigment distribution, but they also increase UV sensitivity—making winter the ideal time to start or stay consistent.

Consistency. Consistency. Consistency.

There’s no single product that erases hyperpigmentation overnight. The glow you notice in summer is usually the result of months of boring, consistent habits.

Daily sunscreen.
A protected barrier.
Intentional exfoliation.
Patience with retinol.

Winter gives you the space to build a routine without constantly resetting your progress. By the time summer arrives, you’re not scrambling to correct, you’re maintaining.

✨ $mart moment:
Hyperpigmentation improves through cumulative skin cycles, not quick fixes. Consistency beats intensity every time.

Your summer glow doesn’t start with a last-minute product haul in May.
It starts now—when the sun is quieter, your routine can breathe, and your skin finally has room to heal.

Winter arc your skin.
Summer will thank you.

✨❄️

With innovation & introspection,

$ky

Now that I’m in my 20s, I almost always have a bag on me. If I don’t, I feel like I’m missing a limb. Which is funny, because—like the title alludes—I don’t actually carry a wallet (thank you, Apple Pay). My purse is basically my personal, mini, on-the-go glam bag. A place where a wallet simply does not belong.

My summer essentials look very different from my winter ones, and I love when friends inspire me to add something new to my lineup. For context: I’m a medium-size bag girl. Big enough to hold my necessities without feeling overcrowded, but not so big that I feel overstimulated once the winter coat and scarf enter the equation.

Okay—let’s get into it.

Shockingly (not really): a lippie

Lip gloss, treatment, oil—or all three. I usually have at least two on me at all times. In cold, dry weather, our lips are the first to lose moisture, and there is nothing worse than lips cracking in a winter wind gust.

Fenty Lip Oil (Cherry or Dragonfruit)
Perfect for topping off a lip combo and giving a thick layer of protection. Because it’s an oil, you’ll need to reapply a bit more often—but she’s worth it.

EADEM Le Chouchou Lip Treatment (Butter Mochi)
If there are no Le Chouchou fans left, I am dead. I love this treatment. The shade range is perfect, it has all the moisturizing and protective ingredients you want, works beautifully on its own, and plays well with a combo. Protective enough to survive this weather, and it actually lasts.

Topicals Lip Salve
The product that got me into lip treatments as a gloss replacement—especially ideal for winter. It’s glossy, long-lasting, and they’re currently expanding the shade range. If you have sensitive-leaning skin, I recommend the unscented versions; certain lip fragrances can trigger irritation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for some people.

$mart : Why lips suffer first
Lips don’t have sebaceous (oil) glands, which means they can’t produce their own protective lipids. That’s why oils, occlusives, and humectants matter so much in winter lip products:

• Humectants (like glycerin) pull water into the skin

• Emollients soften and smooth

• Occlusives seal everything in and reduce moisture loss

The best winter lip products combine all three—hence my love for treatments over traditional gloss.

Hand care (deeply underrated)

Our hands are often neglected and are usually the first to show signs of aging. Dehydration can make them look dramatically more wrinkled, so I’m very pro-hand lotion—especially in winter. I prefer a thicker cream and don’t mind residue since I usually apply right before putting on gloves.

54 Thrones African Beauty Butter
Black-owned and available at Sephora, with a strong focus on shea butter—perfect for going out in 15-degree weather with wind chills.

I’ll also use any body-lotion sample or travel size I have lying around. No waste over here.

To go with hand lotion, I always keep hand sanitizer on me. Brand doesn’t really matter—right now it’s Purell, but when I want to be cute, I’ll grab a Touchland from Sephora. Functionally, any sanitizer works; Touchland is just the modern-day Bath & Body Works scented sanitizer.

$mart: Hands = underrated aging zone
The skin on our hands is thinner, constantly exposed, and washed frequently, which strips lipids from the barrier. Rich butters (like shea) and occlusives help reinforce that barrier and reduce the appearance of fine lines caused by dehydration.

Travel-size perfume (non-negotiable)

I love a mid-day reapplication, and honestly, travel-size perfumes have been more useful in my bag than for TSA.

Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid
A light floral with a hint of vanilla. I bought the travel size to test before committing—and she has officially graduated to a full-size spot in my bathroom.

PHLUR Vanilla Skin
Yes, I’m a vanilla girl. This one leans warmer and more gourmand and lasts all day. Amazing for layering when you’re reapplying scent.

$mart: Fragrance + cold weather = chemistry lesson
Cold temperatures can actually dampen fragrance projection. Warmer, gourmand notes (hello vanilla) tend to last longer because they’re heavier molecules, while lighter florals benefit from mid-day reapplication—hence the travel spray living rent-free in my bag.

The practical essentials

Gum or breath refreshers. I’m currently hyper-fixated on the red Altoids, but any peppermint gum will do—preferably in the large plastic container. It sounds high-maintenance, but after too many paper packs breaking and spilling gum into the bottom of my bag, I feel justified. Plus, they last longer.

Honorable mentions

My digital camera + phone attachment, sunnies, a silk scrunchie (big curly hair + winter = overstimulation), keys, wired headphones, and—if you’ve ever looked in any of my bags—some miscellaneous Advil Liqui-Gels.

So… what’s in your bag?

With innovation & introspection,
$ky

I thought she was insane.

But she always said the same thing: if she didn’t get ready, she wouldn’t work out — and if she didn’t work out, the rest of her day just wouldn’t hit the same.

Fast forward, and I fear I am becoming my mother (in the best way!).

I’ve realized that I also need a routine to be productive — and what surprised me most is that my beauty routine is a non-negotiable part of it. On the days I do my hair, throw on the simplest makeup, and add a little spritz of whatever fragrance I’m feeling, I can sit on my couch and actually get sh*t done. Honestly? I usually get more done on those days than the ones where I just wake up, brush my teeth, and hope motivation finds me.

Naturally, I had to look into why.

Because it turns out there’s actual psychology behind getting ready for nothing — and who would I be if I didn’t share the science?

The first concept is enclothed cognition, which is the (very fitting 😉) term for how what we wear influences how we think, behave, and perform. In Pretty$mart terms: getting dressed changes your brain chemistry. The act of getting ready moves you from passive mode to agent mode. You’re no longer just existing — you’re participating.

The best part? It doesn’t take much. Lip gloss. A swipe of concealer. A perfume you love. Even just changing clothes. These small signals can increase task initiation, confidence, and perceived competence. So if you have nowhere to go, getting ready for yourself still matters — even if it’s just slicking back your hair and applying your favorite lip oil.

Honestly, one of my favorite parts of going out with friends has always been the getting-ready process: the music, the dancing, the wine, the pictures. Behaviorally, this is what psychologists call a ritualized transition — repeated, symbolic actions that help the brain move from one mental state to another.

We already use rituals to wind down for sleep or wake up in the morning, so why not use them to activate productivity? Hair, skincare, fragrance, and clothes can cue the nervous system with a simple message: we’re awake, we’re here, and we’re participating.

If a “sleepy girl mocktail” helps prepare the body for rest, maybe we need a Ready Girl Ritual using beauty as a signal to regulate focus and momentum.

Another piece I’m actively navigating — especially while being home more than usual— is how getting ready impacts self-perception. We often think confidence comes before action, like it’s something you either have or don’t. Psychologically, it’s often the reverse.

You do the thing first.

When you see yourself groomed, styled, or simply put-together, your brain makes an assumption: this is someone worth showing up for. That subtle shift can change posture, tone, willingness to start, and even your tolerance for discomfort — the emails, the workouts, the creative work you’ve been avoiding.

This isn’t girl-boss propaganda. It’s not about grinding or performing productivity. But with a new year and new goals, I think it’s worth revisiting how we show up for ourselves… especially when no one else is watching.

Bring back doing your makeup just to sit at home and take pictures. Doing your hair to test a new style. Putting together outfits for imaginary plans. These moments aren’t frivolous, they’re fun and identity-building. The version of you at home, working remotely, job searching, or doing “nothing” deserves the same care as the version with plans.

Getting ready for nothing has taught me that confidence isn’t always loud or public. Sometimes it’s built quietly, alone, with no event, no validation, and no destination — just the decision to get ready anyway.

With introspection & innovation,
$ky

This is not just what’s circulated on social media but what I really invested in and studied. It’s what I touched, tested, and kept on my shelf.

My 2025 beauty personality💄

Aura: Science-forward, sensory obsessed— I love a clinical claim and a good texture

2025 taught me: the best innovations aren’t always what’s popular but what’s personal.

From the Desk of $ky

“I spent 2025 translating science into human language.”

Top categories I worked on this year

💋#1: UV innovation: The Sun is that serious
I lived in the space where sunscreen isn’t just “SPF,” it’s daily defense: UV + pollution + heat + friction + urban life. The more I read, the more I realized: consumers don’t need fear. They need a story that makes protection feel doable.

💋#2: Men’s hair: Simplifying Hair Science
With Men’s care being predicted as a new growth category, this was an unexpected turn for me. It’s performance-driven yet very simple — which means there’s so much room for innovation and better communication while also keeping in the mind we need to meet the consumer where they’re at.

💋#3: The Skinification of Haircare as a Category
Scalp health. Ingredient literacy entering haircare. People asking for proof, not poetry. And brands finally treating hair damage like something you can understand and support with technology, not just cover up with shine. (We’re seeing more “molecular” language across hair + scalp, like peptides/ceramides and microbiome talk.)

My 2025 Top Work Theme

Education is a product feature.
"If you can communicate the product, you can make money off the product…”

So my 2025 work energy was a lot of:

• building science concepts that feel human

• connecting cosmetics with medicine via partnerships

• bridging innovation & routine

  

Pretty$mart’s Bathroom Champs🏆

Top Shelf— Shower🥇

“Repair, rehydrate, repeat.”

I tried… a lot. Like, “my shower is a formulation library” a lot.

This year felt like a perfect storm of newness + necessity: new launches, new routines, new needs, and a lot of curiosity. I played in a bunch of hair worlds — including products from Matrix, Mizani, Dr. Groot, & Cécred and I kept gravitating toward two things:

1) Products that respect the scalp

If it supports comfort, balance, and long-term hair quality, it had my attention.

2) Products that feel like technology

Not just “soft hair,” but reduced breakage, improved manageability, better resilience.

Top Shelf— Cabinet🏅

This year I was chasing staples.

“Experimental but balanced”

Breakout Staple

🍇Caudalie Vinoperfect Serum
This one quietly earned its spot. She’s expensive but the texture is lovely and has the perfect amount of actives for my skin to leave a mark on my heart while removing them from my skin.

Comfort Product on Repeat

🥛Rhode Glazing Milk
The days I woke up exhausted and burnt out, I always reached for this to give my skin a boost of moisture, hydration, and radiance without needing to do an entire routine.

2026 FORECAST☀️

What I think is about to shape my work brain — and my bathroom shelf.

1) Korean skincare will keep influencing U.S. innovation

K-beauty isn’t just exporting products — it’s exporting formats, textures, and expectations (evidence-backed routines, cosmeceutical-style actives, and playful-but-functional innovation).
If 2025 was “K-beauty is everywhere,” 2026 feels like “K-beauty is being integrated.”

2) The new UV filter conversation is going mainstream

This one is what I’m personally most excited for: the FDA has recently proposed adding bemotrizinol (BEMT) as an active ingredient for U.S. OTC sunscreens — widely used abroad and often cited as a modern, high-performing filter. That’s a major signal that the U.S. sunscreen landscape could finally start opening up after decades of limited filter options.

3) Haircare is entering its “ingredient era”

Expect more:

• scalp-first launches that treat the scalp like skin

• advanced repair language (peptides, ceramides, longevity-ish framing)

• products built for real life stressors: heat, UV, friction, styling cycles

In other words: haircare is becoming a place where science stories matter as much as before-and-after photos.

If 2025 was the year experimentation, 2026 is the year of refinement. Really connecting the science and culture within the beauty world.

2026 Pretty$mart mission:

• stay curious

• stay evidence-based

• stay real & relatable

With Innovation & Introspection,

$ky

Growing up, my dad used to say, “Don’t let your hair stop you from doing what you want.”
It was always my mom’s least favorite sentence — because she was the one left dealing with the aftermath, making sure my hair was done and presentable after I did exactly what I wanted to do.

And as a kid who genuinely believed she was a mermaid and refused to stay out of the water, there was always an aftermath.

From a young age, my life has been a delicate dance: styling my hair in ways that made me feel cute and confident and still allowed me to move my body freely. Weather, style, convenience, function — constantly balancing all of it gets exhausting. It’s one of the reasons so many women with textured hair lean into protective styles: sometimes you’re not just protecting your hair, you’re giving your brain a break.

As much as I love the idea of sew-in season — a 20-inch Cambodian wavy blowout moment — I always come back to the same question: Is it sustainable?
And even more importantly: How deeply are Black women’s health and wellness practices tied to our hair?

I’ve worn sew-ins. I’ve loved them.
But I’ve also noticed something every single time I do: my workouts become less frequent, shorter, and way less intense.

I genuinely love to move my body — hot yoga, weight lifting, HIIT, cycling, and more recently, running. And I know myself well enough to know that if my hair is out (curly or straight), that style probably isn’t surviving more than two or three workouts… if that. And while slicked-back styles work beautifully for some, they’re not my personal preference — both aesthetically and for my hair health.

For me, braids or a behind-the-hairline sew-in have been the most gym-friendly options. They let me work out without immediately worrying about what I’m doing with my hair afterward — which, let’s be honest, can sometimes be the biggest barrier of all.

Right now, wearing my hair out and curly has actually helped me stay more in tune with its health. I can see when it’s dry, when it’s splitting, when it’s time for a trim or a professional visit. But it’s also meant constantly reminding myself of this: I can’t sacrifice movement for my hair.

The winter scaries are very real. And consistent workouts are one of the most reliable ways I protect my mental health during this season. This post is for anyone else sitting in that same contradiction — loving their hair, caring deeply for it, and still trying to prioritize their body and mind

Hair Maintenance Adds to the Stress Load

Hair isn’t just aesthetic. It’s emotional, cultural, professional, and financial. The planning alone — appointments, products, styling time — adds to our mental load. When workouts get skipped to preserve a style, stress doesn’t go away. It quietly stacks.

Chronic stress is linked to elevated cortisol, inflammation, and poorer cardiovascular health — all of which disproportionately affect Black women, especially those juggling demanding careers, caregiving, or both.

The Mental-Health Cost of Skipped Movement

Exercise is one of the most evidence-backed tools we have for reducing anxiety and improving mood. When hair concerns limit movement, Black women lose access to one of the most powerful, and free, forms of mental-health support available.

This matters even more in communities where mental-health care is often under-resourced, stigmatized, or not culturally aligned.

When the Disparity Widens

Avoiding movement can be especially consequential during key life stages:

• Pregnancy and postpartum, when Black women already face significantly higher rates of maternal morbidity and mortality

• Perimenopause and menopause, when muscle mass, bone density, and insulin sensitivity naturally decline

Movement is protective during these phases, yet hair-related barriers can quietly remove that protection.

Beauty Standards Shouldn’t Undermine Health

When professionalism and polish are still coded through Eurocentric beauty standards, sweat becomes “unacceptable” and natural texture becomes “risky.” Health behaviors become flexible. Appearance does not.

That imbalance isn’t cosmetic. It’s structural.

The Pretty Smart Take

When Black women have to choose between movement and maintenance, the issue isn’t hair — it’s innovation, access, and equity.

Hair-compatible wellness isn’t a niche need.
It’s a component in a public-health conversation that often goes over-looked .

Although I don’t have all the answers on how to wear your hair and still get a great workout in, I am deeply passionate about making sure our bodies, minds, and hair are all taken care of together.

Let’s keep this conversation going. If you’ve also been personally victimized by the balance of movement and maintenance, share your favorite hair hacks below.

My current go-to? The pigtail bun …it keeps my roots stretched and my curls intact. The Doux’s Chief Rocka mousse to finish off a stretched braid-out has also been key in doubling down on moisture while providing hold to make it through the gym.

With introspection and innovation,
$ky

That doesn’t mean copying your 12-step skincare routine on your head (please don’t try a toner up there). It’s about extending the same care and intention — moisture balance, barrier support, and gentle actives to the place where your hair actually begins. The way we treat our scalp shows up in how our hair grows, feels, and even behaves. And in Black culture, where hair is both art form and identity across genders and generations, caring for our roots (prepare for a lot more puns) is an act of reverence.

The Rise of Scalp Care

For decades, hair marketing obsessed over growth, shine, and smoothness. Then came “damage repair.” But we’re finally entering the scalp era, where the conversation shifts from ends to ecosystem.

You can see it everywhere: Mielle, Cécred, Briogeo, and The Ordinary all launched scalp serums speaking to hydration, stimulation, or density. But the next wave goes deeper, addressing the scalp microbiome, barrier integrity, circulation, and follicle biology.

So, let’s talk about what the “scalp ecosystem” actually is, why it matters, and the innovations changing the game.

The Scalp Ecosystem — My New Favorite Phrase

No one else seems to be calling it that, but I am. It sounds fun and techy and honestly…accurate.

The scalp is skin that happens to host a dense forest of follicles. It includes sebaceous and sweat glands, a complex microbiome, and a delicate lipid barrier.

The scalp microbiome is the community of microorganisms that live there — think “gut health,” but for your roots. A balanced microbiome supports nutrient exchange, reduces inflammation, and strengthens the hair’s foundation.

And then there’s the follicle connection, the tiny biological anchor that locks each strand in place. Each follicle cycles through growth (anagen), rest (catagen), and release (exogen). How healthy your scalp is determines how well these cycles function.

Why This Matters (Especially for Textured Hair)

For those of us with textured hair, scalp health often sits in the background of our routines. Styles like braids, sew-ins, or slick-backs can cause tension, dryness, or buildup that alter the scalp’s microbiome and barrier function.

• Braids can leave the scalp exposed and dehydrated.

• Sew-ins / quick-weaves / wigs can trap sebum, leading to flaking, itching, or blocked follicles.

• High-tension styles can push follicles prematurely into the shedding phase (exogen), leading to thinning over time.

This isn’t an anti-styling PSA — far from it. It’s about knowing the biology so we can style smarter, protect longer, and treat the scalp as part of our self-expression, not an afterthought.

Your Scalp Health Checklist

A few rules to live (and style) by:

Cleanse with intention. Build-up blocks results. I cleanse once a week — my scalp is drier and my curls tighter, so overwashing can cause more harm than good.

Soothe and protect. Especially in winter, keep the scalp hydrated to maintain barrier balance.

Encourage circulation. Scalp massages increase blood flow — great for delivery of nutrients (but no two-hour massages, IYKYK).

Use targeted actives. Pick serums that address your concern — peptides for strengthening, niacinamide for balance, or panthenol for hydration.

Style smartly. Protective styles only work if your scalp is actually protected. Minimize tension, cleanse between installs, and focus on scalp access.

Innovators I Admire!

Dr. Groot, Cécred, K18, Mizani, Redken, Briogeo, Nesh Scalp Wellness

Final Thoughts

Scalp health isn’t a trend, it’s a return to the root (literally). Neglecting it can worsen dandruff, thinning, or inflammation before you even notice changes in your hair. But building a scalp-first routine doesn’t have to be stressful. Often, it’s as simple as swapping a shampoo or adding one thoughtful serum.

The goal isn’t fear but empowerment through science. If your scalp has been dry, itchy, oily, or shedding, here’s your sign to start at the root.

With Innovation & Introspection,

$ky

Science References for the Curious

• Gallo RL. “The human skin microbiome.” Nature Reviews Microbiology. 2021.

• Misery L. “Scalp microbiome and dandruff: A review.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020.

• Proksch E. “The skin barrier and its importance.” International Journal of Trichology. 2020.

• Trueb RM. “Molecular mechanisms of hair loss and regeneration.” British Journal of Dermatology. 2019.

• Cosmetics & Toiletries. “Personalized Haircare: Data, Devices, and Diagnostics.” 2023.