I hope that, over time, if many people bear witness and provide a collective record of the ethnic cleansing and genocide of the Palestinian people, then there will be a sufficient shift in public consciousness to hold Western leaders accountable to stop Israel’s erasure of the Palestinian people – an erasure being carried out with impunity, one family at a time.

Watercolor sketch of an olive tree by one of my fellow volunteers.

For Palestinians, the olive tree is a powerful symbol of cultural identity, resilience, steadfastness, and connection to the land. Some olive trees have stood for hundreds, even thousands, of years, bearing witness to generations of Palestinian life. Since the occupation began in 1967, more than one million olive trees have been uprooted, burned, or otherwise destroyed.

As I leave Palestine, I find myself thinking about these ancient trees and what they represent. I am reminded of a passage from Susan Abulhawa’s Mornings in Jenin (p. 62), in which the father, Hasan, explains to his young daughter, Amal:

‘‘No one can own a tree. It can belong to you, as you can belong to it. We come from the land, give our love and labor to her, and she nurtures us in return. When we die, we return to the land. In a way, she owns us, and we belong to her.”

Perhaps the deepest lesson of the olive tree is that our place in the world is not to own the land, but to belong to it.

If you are interested in coming to Palestine for solidarity participation or to donate, consider the International Solidarity Movement.

The International Solidarity Movement (ISM) is a Palestinian-led organization that places international volunteers in communities across the occupied West Bank at the invitation of Palestinian families.

Volunteers provide a protective international presence intended to help deter violence by Israeli settlers and security forces while documenting conditions on the ground through written reports, photographs, and videos.

ISM reports that it is currently unable to meet all requests from Palestinian families seeking a protective presence. The organization also reports that rising transportation and food costs have increased its operating expenses, and it relies on donations and volunteers to sustain its work.

Updates from the West Bank are regularly published on ISM’s website, where the organization shares reports from volunteers and Palestinian communities, centering the perspectives of the families experiencing it firsthand. Human rights organizations have also cited documentation collected by ISM, including Amnesty International, in investigations and reports concerning the occupied Palestinian territories.

Those interested in volunteering with ISM can learn more about the application process here:

https://palsolidarity.org/join/

The annual olive harvest, beginning in mid-October, is one of the periods when international volunteers are most frequently requested, as tensions and incidents affecting Palestinian farmers often increase during the harvest season.

For those who are unable to travel, ISM accepts donations to support volunteer deployments and operating costs. The organization is funded through independent donations and volunteer support.

https://chuffed.org/project/133421-palestine-solidarity

You can also follow and share reporting from Palestinian journalists, human rights organizations, and groups documenting the ongoing crimes of genocide and ethnic cleansing in the West Bank and Gaza.

Staying informed and amplifying firsthand reporting remains one way to increase public awareness of events in the region.

Individuals and groups providing extensive coverage of settler events throughout the West Bank include:

• @the.andrey.x - Independent journalist

• @naamoduk and @kivsa_shchora - Jewish activist groups

To take action today to help a Palestinian activist who has been in jail for 6 months for his journalistic work, here is a link:

• https://www.instagram.com/ayman_ghraieb

Photo: Shem Tov riding horse onto harvest field, credit HS

For the Palestinians involved, the incident was another example of the coordination between settlers and military authorities that restricts their ability to access and work their land. Shem Tov Luski lives in an outpost in the South Hebron Hills and is known to residents and human rights organizations for documented allegations of harassment, grazing livestock on privately owned land, and assault. He is also featured in the documentary No Other Land.

Palestinian harvest not allowed; credits HS

Settler stealing the wheat harvest that the soldiers forced the Palestinians to abandon.

Video credit: ISM

Palestinians in the occupied West Bank live with violence—or the threat of violence—as a part of daily life. Many also report that settlers are rarely held accountable for attacks against Palestinians, even in the most serious cases.

One case that has received significant attention is the killing of Awdah Hathaleen, a 31-year-old father of three, school teacher, and consultant on the documentary No Other Land. According to media reports and eyewitness accounts, Hathaleen was shot and killed by Israeli settler Yinon Levi in Masafer Yatta in July 2025 while observing an incident involving a settler operating an earthmover. Reports state that Hathaleen was unarmed at the time. The incident was captured on video, which corroborates eyewitness accounts.

According to reporting on the case, Levi was charged with negligent homicide and placed under house arrest before being released a few days later. The case has become a focal point for discussions about accountability and the treatment of settler violence in the occupied West Bank.

You can read more about Hathaleen’s life and the circumstances surrounding his death here: https://www.aljazeera.com/amp/news/2025/7/29/who-was-awdah-hathaleen-palestinian-activist-killed-by-an-israeli-settler ‎

The incident drew the attention of armed police and soldiers, who came to the family’s home. According to those present, the settler faced no reprimand or consequences.

The encounter was another source of stress for a family already living under tremendous strain. O, the head of the household, has two sons who have been held in Israeli administrative detention for more than a year without being charged. The family told me previously that they have been unable to communicate with them during this time.

It is impossible not to think about the cumulative weight of these experiences: the daily uncertainty, the recurring confrontations, and the absence of their sons.

Soldiers at O’s house. Photo credits: HS | Settler on horseback with cows

This morning, while traveling to UD for my final night of solidarity presence, we encountered a settler and his flock blocking the road.

As we filmed the scene, he began filming us in return. The interaction lasted only a short time, but it was a reminder that the presence of international volunteers is itself closely monitored.

Local activists and volunteers have told us that settlers often record international visitors, viewing their presence as an obstacle to their efforts and, in some cases, seeking to discourage or deter internationals from coming to the West Bank.

Settler blocking the road with his sheep

The family at UD continues to be besieged with settler trespassing and harassment.

Photo of electricity cable cut by settler. Credit: Na’amod | The settler has come again this morning. The pressure on the family is relentless.

Last night, a settler cut the wire for electricity to the house, so there is currently no electricity here.

For the past several days, we have been hearing military aircraft overhead.

During Eid al-Adha, as Israeli military operations have continued in Gaza and Lebanon, the sound of war has felt very close. Even when the villages are quiet, the aircraft overhead are a constant reminder of the broader conflict surrounding us.

Aggressive settlers approaching on donkeys

I spent the afternoon in HAN with the family whose entire flock of sheep was stolen last week. R, the head of the household, is devastated. The family is doing its best to cope with the loss and carry on with dignity, but R told me that he does not expect the police to help recover the animals. For a shepherding family, the theft of an entire flock is not only an economic catastrophe but the loss of the livelihood on which the family depends.

The family also continues to face ongoing intimidation. They told me that a young settler comes to the house almost daily and has repeatedly attempted to enter the home. According to the family, he has used pepper spray during previous incidents.

Because of these concerns, the family has requested the presence of international volunteers. Another volunteer and I remained at the house until around 7 p.m. During that time, we watched the settler from a distance as he grazed his large flock nearby.

The family spent the afternoon tending to daily tasks, but the uncertainty of what might happen next remained ever present.

Shortly after we changed shifts, the settler came to the front of the house and behaved in a menacing manner, as shown in the video below.

The police were called. They arrived, spoke with those present, and then left, advising the family to file a report. As is tradition.

Footage by HS of the settler attempting to enter the house. He had pepper spray but did not use it.

Quiet endurance of this weather-worn chair and the beauty of the garden that has survived at R’s house

At another location today, according to a report and video footage from HS, settlers came from the outpost in UAK and cut down a fence separating their area from the property of a Palestinian family.

During the incident, settlers violently pushed a Palestinian resident, who was later taken to the hospital for treatment. Soldiers arrived at the scene, secured the settlers, and then threw a stun grenade toward the Palestinians.

Following the confrontation, military forces decided to construct a new fence closer to the Palestinian family’s home, further restricting their access to their land. To install the fence, an olive tree was uprooted.

For the family, the loss of access to land and the removal of the olive tree were additional reminders of the pressures they continue to face in remaining on their property.

Settlers tearing down the fence on Palestinian property. Footage by HS

Taking an injured Palestinian in the ambulance. Footage by HS.

Uprooting an olive tree to put in the new fence. Instagram @Kivsa_shchora reported this story

One of the young women, M, age 20, with vibrant green eyes and a warm smile, showed us her wedding photos from last year. She spoke excitedly about the birth of her first child, which she is eagerly awaiting.

For a few hours, life felt ordinary. Settlers did not come to the area that morning, and the families were able to enjoy some peace. The family showed us a video recorded the previous day that they said captured settlers taking a phone from one of the children.

Then came two rather unlucky adventures.

We needed to fill the car with diesel, so we stopped at a fuel station. By mistake, the attendant filled the tank with petrol instead. The car made it about 200 meters before breaking down completely. The station workers quickly realized what had happened and came to help. They siphoned the petrol out of the tank and replaced it with diesel. Feeling terrible about the mix-up, they repeatedly apologized and even brought us food while we waited for the repairs to be completed.

What could have been a frustrating experience turned into yet another example of the generosity and kindness we have encountered here.

‎After the car was repaired, we returned to our flat. Not long afterward, my fellow volunteer and I were asked to accompany a shepherd in a nearby area. To reach him, we had to walk through olive groves and across several steep hillsides.

Unfortunately, my day of minor misadventures was not yet over. I slipped on the hillside, fell, and managed to dislocate my shoulder. The shepherding accompaniment never quite went as planned.

‎Olive grove on the way to shepherding

I was taken by Red Crescent ambulance to a Palestinian hospital in Yatta. Because of Israeli roadblocks, the journey took about 30 minutes longer than it otherwise would have due to the required detours. At the hospital, I was greeted warmly by an English-speaking Palestinian doctor. He gave me medication for the pain, a mild sedative, and then successfully relocated my shoulder.

Red Crescent Ambulance ride

The care I received was excellent. Throughout the experience, I was treated with kindness, professionalism, and generosity. As uncomfortable as the injury was, it felt insignificant compared to the hardships that Palestinians endure every day. The experience left me feeling grateful for the care I received and mindful of the immense challenges faced by the families I have met.

We were welcomed by two related families who live in the area. They live in tents without running water and rely on several large dogs for protection. The dogs wear heavy spiked collars designed to defend them against attacks.

The families told us that settlers, mostly from an outpost on a nearby hill, have been coming to the area every day. They said they have repeatedly been pressured and threatened to leave, but they remain steadfast in their determination to stay on their land.

The family also explained that they have not been permitted to graze their land for the past six years. Because they maintain two large flocks, they must now purchase feed that would otherwise be available through grazing, creating a significant financial burden.

Despite these challenges, they continue to care for their animals, maintain their homes, and remain on the land their families have lived on for generations.

Drone following us on the way to WT

We spent the night in a spacious and comfortable tent. Once again, I was humbled by the extraordinary warmth and hospitality shown to us by the Palestinian family hosting us.

We were served a delicious meal of seasoned rice, tomatoes, and cucumbers. Despite the challenges they face, the family’s generosity was evident in every detail, from the meal they prepared to the welcome they extended to strangers.

Lying in the tent at night, I listened to the dogs bark and wondered if settlers were coming. For me, it was one night. For the Palestinian families living here, it is a reality they face every night.

Illegal Israeli outpost on the hill above the family in WT ‎

It is heartbreaking to see the changes they have made in an effort to protect themselves. The settlers who carried out the attack have rebuilt their outpost and live approximately 150 meters from the family’s home.

The windows that were shattered by stones thrown during previous attacks are now covered with metal grates. A space at the back of the house that was once open to the outdoors and used for gathering and relaxation has been sealed off behind a reinforced concrete wall.

Where the chicken coop once stood, there is now only a patch of burned ground.

The physical damage is easy to see, but so too are the lasting effects of living under the constant threat of further attacks. The family’s home has been transformed not by choice, but by the need to protect themselves.

WR's house is now barricaded- open-air space for the family’s enjoyment now cemented walls. Burnt ground where a chicken coop used to be.

I spoke to Y, the head of the household, and asked how he is coping after this horrendous attack. He commented:

“This is our reality under occupation. It’s been like this since the day we were born. Things have been getting worse and worse, and today it’s worse than ever. What are we supposed to do? God knows best - what are we supposed to do?”

Y’s family has lived on this land for three generations, spanning approximately 50 years. He and his wife are raising five children here—four sons and one daughter—all of whom continue to live at home.

In addition to experiencing settler incursions and the arson attack on their property, the family has faced significant economic hardship. Y told me that he has been unemployed since October 7, 2023. Before then, he worked in construction in Israel and relied on that income to support his family.

Following the outbreak of war in Gaza, Israel revoked work permits for an estimated 115,000 to 150,000 Palestinians from the West Bank. Like many others, Y lost his job and has been unable to return to work since.

As a result, the family has had to cope not only with the physical and psychological effects of repeated attacks, but also with the loss of a vital source of income.

Reconstructed outpost with settlers 150 meters from the house

Y commented: “The illegal settler, he’s the one who’s coming to burn us in our own home. He’s coming for my family. He’s coming to burn me, burn the children, burn the women, burn the boy, burn the whole world, and burn the house. I mean, what’s left? “

“We arrived at 3:45, went to the roof, and started taking photos of two settlers in the field in front of the outpost.

Almost immediately, those settlers were joined by a group of 10-15 masked settlers with sticks at 3:55, who swarmed a house about 300 metres away from the outpost, tried breaking into the house, and started beating the Palestinians who lived there with sticks. This lasted about 5 minutes; afterwards, they ran away and continued throwing stones. Several Palestinians, including the elderly, were left with severe lacerations in the face, which we got on camera.

We phoned the police at 3:55, who first hung up twice. When we got through, they refused to give us an event number, but said they would dispatch people to the area “soon” and that it would take some time. They refused to confirm the ETA.

We phoned the military unit in WR at 4:20, who said they were aware of the incident and that people were on their way.

The military arrived just after 4:30, shortly after the ambulance, which took several injured Palestinians with them. At 5:10, the military told the Palestinians’ visitors that they had 5 minutes to leave the property. At this point the settlers had already returned to the outpost.”

This event again demonstrates the daily violence perpetrated by Israeli settlers on Palestinians and the apathetic, inadequate response by the police. No one is being held accountable for the violent attack.

Footage provided by Na’amod, IG @naamoduk

As international volunteers, we cannot stop the violence. What we can do is stand in solidarity with Palestinian families who have asked for our presence. We accompany them, bear witness, and document incidents so that the wider world can better understand what is happening in the West Bank.

Over the past two years, what was once called “Protective Presence” has increasingly become “Solidarity Presence.” As illegal settlement expansion, home demolitions, and violent settler incursions have continued to escalate, the role of international volunteers has evolved as well.

Our presence alone cannot guarantee safety. But families continue to ask us to stay with them, accompany them while shepherding, and document events as they occur. Bearing witness and amplifying their stories has become an important part of the work.

Read here about how the role of international volunteers has changed in response to these realities.

• https://www.vashtimedia.com/protective-presence-palestine-solidarity/

• https://www.972mag.com/protective-presence-west-bank-activism/

Armed settler Mordechai, trespassing with sheep on Palestinian land

The sheep remained on the property for some time before moving on. There was no escalation to violence, but the family’s routine was once again disrupted.

The family described it as a routine occurrence. In Masafer Yatta, incursions like this have become part of daily life.

Soldier in a civilian car came this morning when Mordechai’s flock was grazing. But drove away without doing anything.

Mordechai is well known to community residents for trespassing and intimidation, and is often armed.

I spent the night with a lovely elderly couple in another village in Masafer Yatta. The husband is seriously ill with cancer, and the couple has recently endured a settler arson attack on their property.

According to the family, settlers drove a vehicle onto their land and set it on fire. Their fence was also burned during the incident.

The couple now requests international volunteers to stay with them, both for support and to help monitor the property. Fortunately, the night passed without incident, and there were no further incursions.

According to Q, occupation forces consisting of two military vehicles entered the village of Al-Mughayyir, northeast of Ramallah. Soldiers raided multiple homes, causing destruction and vandalism. In one particularly violent incident, soldiers entered the home of K, under the pretext of searching for his son Q, who was not present at the time. According to Q, the soldiers ransacked the house, leaving extensive damage, as shown in the accompanying photographs. K and his other son, M, were physically assaulted during the raid.

Army raid at Q’s house

Reflecting on the incident, Q told me: “This has become normal for us. I think it keeps happening in my village because they wanted to displace us and couldn’t, so they do this.”

Q is a nonviolent activist in his community.

Palestinians in Al-Mughayyir have been subjected to years of attacks, intimidation, arson, property destruction, physical violence, and forced displacement of families by Israeli settlers. Community members report that these incidents continue unabated with no accountability for those responsible.

For the published version of this interview, see @ismpalestine.

Photo: A shepherd’s son on a horse

Overnight in Masafer Yatta, a Palestinian family reported that their entire flock of sheep had been stolen by settlers. The sheep were the family’s primary source of income and livelihood.

The family does not want media coverage at this time, believing that publicity will not help them recover their animals.

For a shepherding family, the loss of an entire flock is far more than economic ruin. It represents the loss of a way of life, a deep connection to the land, and a central part of their cultural identity. Sheep are not simply livestock; they are the foundation of a family’s ability to remain on and sustain its ancestral grazing lands.

When settlers steal a flock of sheep and cut off access to grazing hills, Palestinian shepherds are forced to abandon land that has supported generations of their family.

Residents and human rights observers have documented escalating incidents of livestock theft and restrictions on grazing by Israeli settlers in parts of the South Hebron Hills and Masafer Yatta. These practices are designed to intimidate Palestinian shepherding communities and clear their presence in rural mountain areas.

You can read more about this here in the Times of Israel. https://www.timesofisrael.com/settlers-try-to-steal-palestinian-owned-sheep-in-hebron-hills-as-west-bank-violence-soars/

View of the settler outpost from the window of the Palestinian family’s home

The family is continuing with their daily lives, but they are exhausted from the constant need to monitor their property and remain alert for further incursions. This reality is being experienced by Palestinian families throughout the West Bank.

According to the United Nations, at least 49 attacks by Israeli settlers were recorded across the West Bank in a single week. Between May 12 and 18, these settler attacks “caused casualties or damage, including a rise in arson attacks against homes, farmland, vehicles and a mosque.”

Against this backdrop, we were grateful for a peaceful day. I helped stack vein leaves, split wood, and care for one-month-old baby O, the newest addition to the family. Amid the uncertainty and stress, there were still moments of normal family life, work, and joy.

Stacking vein leaves

It was beautiful and peaceful to watch the sheep graze, drink from the well, and rest in a cave during the hottest part of the day. K made tea and prepared a delicious lunch for us in the cave.

K, the head of the household, lives here with his wife and seven children. I also met his oldest son, M, who shepherded with us. Both K and M were kind and extraordinarily patient as I attempted to communicate in very basic Arabic.

K asks international volunteers to accompany him while shepherding because he has been attacked by settlers and arrested multiple times just for continuing to try to earn a living from shepherding.

One of the individuals K identified as having assaulted him was Binyamin (”Bodi”) Bodenheimer, the security coordinator for the Avigayil settlement in the South Hebron Hills. Bodenheimer shot 60-year-old Palestinian farmer Sheikh Saeed al-Amour in the leg on his own property in April 2025, an injury that ultimately led to the amputation of al-Amour’s leg. Bodenheimer was not arrested, and he continues to be seen in the area carrying a weapon and intimidating local Palestinian families.

K told me that Bodenheimer assaulted him. His wife, E, was filming the incident when she too was attacked. K said that she remains terrified of filming, even from inside the house through a window. The harassment has continued, and the family has sold most of their sheep to pay for damage done to their home.

K shared photos and videos with me and told me to share them with others. They show soldiers coming to his house and wreaking havoc.

Much of our time, both day and night, is spent in Palestinian families’ homes monitoring their property for settler incursions.

A major incident occurred early Tuesday morning. I did not witness it myself, but one of the international volunteers from HS was present. The event serves as a reminder of how quickly circumstances can change and of the kinds of incidents that Palestinian families may face at any moment.

This is her dispatch: WR May 18th 3:40 am

We woke up to the family yelling and quickly realized that there was a fire on the balcony. After a few minutes, the Palestinians put it out. We went downstairs to see there was another fire, but the settlers were still there and threw rocks at us; we ran back up, and after a few moments they left. We came downstairs and saw that they started a fire under the house, where there was a car and some chickens (it seems they survived). They also burned the tabun (where they make bread). “

Family’s CCTV footage of arson attack

Photos and video credit: HS.

A baby remains hospitalized due to smoke inhalation. Although the army took down the settler outpost 150 meters away from the house, it is already being rebuilt, which means the family is at risk of further attacks. ‎

Settlers rebuilding their illegal outpost

After less than a week in Masafer Yatta, what I have observed is families living with deep trauma and constant uncertainty. They live with the fear that they or their loved ones could be attacked by settlers at any moment; that their livelihoods could be destroyed through the theft of livestock; that their homes could be burned; or that their property could be seized or demolished.

Despite these realities, I continue to encounter families who carry on with remarkable dignity. They welcome visitors with warmth and generosity, care for one another, and go about their daily lives as best they can. They are determined to remain on their land despite the pressures they face.

What I am witnessing is a pattern in which violence and intimidation continue to drive displacement, often without accountability. Yet the resilience of the families who remain is evident every day.

Night Watch

M told me that he and his wife have lived on this land for 50 years. Seven months ago, settlers brutally attacked them in their home. His wife said that since then, she can no longer look at her reflection in the mirror without feeling fear. They have erected razor-wire fencing around their property in an attempt to prevent further incursions, but they live with concerns for their safety every day.

May 17th

Today in UD, I witnessed a settler bring a flock of approximately 40–50 sheep onto the land of the Palestinian family with whom I had stayed overnight. He drove the flock directly past the house and grazed the sheep on the family’s property. The incident lasted about an hour.

While the trespass was nonviolent, it was nevertheless documented. We record all incidents—both violent and nonviolent—and submit reports to a legal team that is compiling evidence of events occurring throughout the West Bank. The cumulative record of these incidents may ultimately help support Palestinian claims in court.

During the same period, another settler was driving an ATV around the property. Local Palestinian families identified him as Amichai Shiloh, a settler they say frequently trespasses on private land and uses intimidation tactics to disrupt daily life.

Photo: Amichai Shiloh

Today is Nakba Day.

This is the day in 1948 when Zionist military forces expelled at least 750,000 Palestinians from their homes and lands and captured 78 percent of historic Palestine. The remaining 22 percent was divided into what are now the occupied West Bank and the Gaza Strip.

For the Palestinian people, the Nakba is a lived reality and generational trauma for the Palestinians every day; since 1948, the Palestinians have been denied the right to call their home their home.

If you would like to learn more, a further discussion of the Nakba can be found HERE!

Photo credit: HS (Hebrew Speakers Group)

Settlers grazing their sheep on Palestinian family’s land in WR. They have an outpost next to the house and trespass almost daily, intimidating the family by walking next to their house. Witnessed by HS.

Photo credit: HS

Settlers at another house this morning in WR. They stole a chicken and are now coming back to the house with sticks and throwing stones. Witnessed by HS.

In J village today, accompanying a shepherd who has been harassed by a settler in the area.

I met a Palestinian girl today, 11 years old. She asked me if I had a balloon she could play with. I said I was sorry, but I don’t have a balloon. She asked where I was from. I said I am from America. She replied, “America is killing us.” I told her I didn’t agree with our government’s policies and that I am here to witness what is going on so I can tell people about it. She hugged me and again said she hopes to play with a balloon sometime.

The objective of my stay is to bear witness and document Israeli settler harassment, trespassing, and violence inflicted on Palestinian families on a daily basis. I will record what I witness directly, as well as what other international volunteers that I am here with are also observing.

On the way to Masafer Yatta in the West Bank. So many Israeli flags are planted on the roadside.

On the first hill is the Israeli settlement Avigayil, established in 2001, considered illegal by international law. The second hill is an Israeli outpost. Settlers harass and intimidate the Palestinians who are trying to stay on their land.

First Image: Breakfast at our very kind and generous host’s home of falafel, hummus, olive oil, za’atar & khubiz (bread).

Second Image: The children picked flowers for my hair. Razor wire in the background to prevent settlers from stealing their animals.

Third Image: Spending the night w/ my host family, having fun playing LEGO & Hide N Seek with the kids!

Fourth Image: Avigayil, the Israeli settlement, is close to the house, our host family’s house is under threat by settlers who have come and brought their sheep to graze on the family’s land.

On my first full day, I spent time with my host family doing wheat harvesting. Soldiers drove by several times, but they did not stop, thankfully. I thought it was beautiful to see the poppy, which is the national flower of Palestine. The red color represents the blood of the martyrs. The flower can grow in harsh conditions, symbolizing the resilience (somoud) of the Palestinian people.

First Image: Settler bringing his sheep onto Palestinian land.

Second Image: View of an Israeli settler outpost from a home in Masafer Yatta, where I am staying today.

In the past, the family’s house was destroyed by settlers, and they had to rebuild it. Animals and a greenhouse were stolen, their truck was burned, and their last remaining well was poisoned. This week, settlers attempted to steal a donkey and attacked the family.

Day 1

I landed in Jordan and crossed into Israel over the King Hussein Allenby Bridge.

This can be a difficult process. Foreigners can sometimes be questioned for hours about why they are coming, who they know in Israel, and often they have to open up their phones and show their social media accounts and contacts, which can lead to deportation if they landed in Israel or denial of entry if they did a land crossing.

I was lucky.

This is my first time here, and questioning was light, despite the fact that this is wartime. One of the other people in my group was questioned for 6 hours today.

I spent my first day in East Jerusalem. By international law, East Jerusalem is Palestinian territory that has been occupied by Israel since 1967 and unilaterally annexed in 1980. As soon as you enter the city, you see Israeli flags flying everywhere. Even though the majority of the population in East Jerusalem is Palestinian, Israel is trying to establish a Jewish majority there through illegal settlements, restricting land that Palestinians can own, and denying them citizenship status. As I walked around Muslim and Jewish neighborhoods, I felt a tension among the people.

Day 2

Trip to Ramallah

I traveled from Jerusalem to Ramallah today.

The bus ride should take about 45 minutes, but our bus was stopped at the Kallandia refugee camp. The IOF blocked the road after killing a young Palestinian man. We had to get off the bus, walk on an overpass to a yellow van (“servis”) to take a detour to get to Ramallah. I met a Palestinian woman named Widad who grew up in Ramallah and now lives in Jerusalem. She was visiting her mom and picking up her son from school in Ramallah. She explained that the police left the body of the young man in the street so traffic was not moving. She has a lot of anxiety taking the yellow van due to fears of stray bullets. While taking the van together, she shared with me that she has 3 sons.

One at Berkeley volunteering in a biochemistry lab. One is in North Carolina working, and her youngest high school-age son has a scholarship to study at Sidwell Friends in Washington, D.C. next year. All hardworking, resilient children with hopes and dreams for their future in a free Palestine.

I also witnessed the Ramallah Resistance Demonstration - videos below

This Substack will document my time as an international volunteer providing protective presence in Palestinian villages in the West Bank. I will be traveling in May and will begin posting regular reports once I arrive.

What this is

These posts will be firsthand accounts of daily life in communities where homes and land are under immediate threat of being stolen by Israeli settlers, often with the support or protection of the Israeli army.

I will be staying in these villages for periods of time, alongside Palestinian families and other activists. My role is not to speak for the people who live there, but to be present—to observe, to document, and to share what I see and hear as carefully and accurately as I can.

You can expect:

• Short, regular field reports

• Descriptions of daily events and conditions

• Observations of how people navigate ongoing pressure and uncertainty

• Reflections on the role of protective presence and accompaniment

  What this is not

  This is not a comprehensive analysis, and it is not intended to be a definitive account of the broader political situation.

  These are limited, situated observations—one person’s record of what I witness in a specific place and time.

  Where I describe events, I will distinguish as clearly as possible between what I directly observe, what I am told, and what I cannot verify.

  Why am I going

  I am a physician and a mother. Over the past months, I have followed events in Gaza and the West Bank from a distance—writing to elected representatives, attending protests, and contributing where I can.

  At a certain point, that distance began to feel insufficient.

  I do not believe it is acceptable to live in a world where power alone determines who is allowed safety, dignity, and a future. Nor do I believe we can remain silent while communities are displaced and a people’s connection to their land is being erased.

The current reality in the West Bank is part of a longer history of displacement that began in 1948, in what Palestinians call the Nakba. For many, what is happening now is experienced as its relentless continuation.

I am going to bear witness, to document, and to contribute—however modestly—to a sustained record of what is happening.

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I am a mother and a physician. Both roles are grounded in a responsibility to protect life and respond to suffering. I have found it increasingly difficult to reconcile that responsibility with the knowledge that my government, through my tax dollars, has pursued policies that have led to the complete collapse of international human rights laws. It is seared into my soul that my government has made me complicit in an ongoing genocide and ethnic cleansing.

I do not believe it is acceptable to live in a world where might determines what is right—where power alone dictates who is allowed safety, dignity, and a future. Nor do I believe we can remain silent while a people’s presence, culture, and connection to their land are steadily being erased.

The current moment cannot be understood in isolation. The violence and displacement facing Palestinians today are part of a longer history that began in 1948, in what Palestinians call the Nakba. What is happening now, particularly in the West Bank, reflects a continuation of that process for many communities.

For these reasons, I have decided to travel to the West Bank to participate in protective presence.

I will be staying in villages where land and homes are under immediate threat of being stolen by settlers, often with the support of the Israeli army. My intention is not to speak for those who live there, but to stand alongside them—to witness, to document, and to share what I see and hear as accurately and responsibly as I can.

During this time, I will write daily reflections describing what life looks like under these conditions: what villagers are confronting, how they respond to ongoing pressure and uncertainty, and how they sustain resilience in the face of it. I will also write about the role of activists who come to accompany them—to bear witness, and, in some cases, to help reduce the risk of violence simply by being present.

I do not assume that my presence will change outcomes in any immediate way. But I believe that careful documentation matters, and that sustained attention can contribute, over time, to accountability and to the broader pursuit of justice, equal rights, and self-determination.

I am going because I do not want distance to become a form of silence.

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