It’s our second summer together on the Italian Riviera, specifically Riviera di Levante, the eastern stretch known for rocky beaches, hidden coves and colourful fishing villages. My partner started coming here some years ago with his family, since they bought a small summer home in Rapallo, a neighbouring town with a quieter, more local feel, a short drive from the more touristy Portofino. Most of our days are spent swimming, reading, cooking, and the occasional lunch or dinner out. We spent most of our time relaxing and having a slow local experience, so here are my quick coordinates for the small stretch of the Italian Riviera that I’ve visited for the past two years: Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino and Camogli.

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Travel Notes

Transport: We always have a car which makes getting between towns considerably easier, though parking can be quite difficult, especially during high season in August. Without a car, trains, buses and ferries connect Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino and San Fruttuoso. There is also a scenic coastal walk between several of these towns. Lime bikes are available in select spots (though quite sporadic and seasonal), and I have also seen locals and tourists alike getting around on the quintessential Italian scooter.

Ligurian Dishes: Genoa, the capital of Liguria, is the birthplace of pesto as we know it: basil, olive oil, pine nuts, garlic, pecorino and parmigiano. Pasta al pesto genovese is a must. Focaccia in this region is soft, fluffy and thin with a crispy surface, while Focaccia di Recco, the signature thin, cheesy focaccia, is particularly well known here and a must-try. Seafood is essential for obvious reasons, and Cappon Magro, a lavish layered salad of seafood and vegetables that is something of a regional centrepiece dish, is worth seeking out if you love seafood.

Swimming and Beach Access: Beaches here are mostly pebble, so bring flip-flops or water shoes for entering and exiting the water. There are many public swimming spots, though during high season space becomes very limited and relaxed lounging can be difficult. Many locals reserve a sun bed or an “ombrello” at one of the many beach clubs for easier access and a little extra space. They come in a range of price points, so there is usually an option for every budget.

Eat

Focacceria Revello (Camogli): Famous for their focaccia and baked goods. Grab something fresh and head straight to the beach. Lines can be long at lunch but move fast.

La Bossa di Mario (Camogli): We had a quick aperitivo here but their dinner also looked equally fantastic.

Manuelina Ristorante (Recco): Traditional and well-loved restaurant known for their Focaccia di Recco. Perfect for special occasions or date night.

ö Magazín (Rapallo, Portofino, Paraggi): We had a nice dinner at the new location on the marina in Rapallo with stunning sunset views but they also have a location in Portofino and Paraggi as well.

Osteria Vecchia Rapallo (Rapallo): We’ve been here for lunch and dinner. Simple and fresh Ligurian dishes in the middle of town, I always get the pasta vongole.

Gelateria Simonetti (Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure): My favourite gelato in Italy. I know, massive statement and I stand by it! There are only three locations, all along the Riviera, so I look forward to this every single year. My go-to is Amarena and Yogurt, and their Stracciatella is not to be missed either.

I Gemelli (Portofino): Marina views of Portofino, had some chopped mussel pasta here for lunch that was wonderfully delicious.

Ristorante Puny (Portofino): A well-frequented dinner spot for my partner and his family. Funny because who would’ve thought I’d find a restaurant with my name in Italy?

Langosteria (Paraggi): Located in Bagni Fiori, whether you’re coming for lunch between dips in Paraggi, or a sunset dinner date, prepare for splurge.

Mitili e Mitili (Rapallo): Very cute and local seafood spot where you can also buy seafood to bring home. I picked up some fresh meaty mussels here for an exceptionally home cooked seafood dinner.

Swim

Spiaggia Paraggi: My favourite swimming spot and one of the highlights of my trip. I love going to the little beach shack to rent a stand-up paddle board for a couple hours and just enjoy the crisp blue waters.

Baia Cannone: Beautiful cove for swimming close to Paraggi, on the walk between Santa Margherita and Portofino.

San Michele: A public beach access and a picturesque swimming spot for locals in Santa Margherita Ligure, though not a lot of space for lounging.

Piscina Naturale Castello dei Sogni (Rapallo): I truly wish I could gatekeep this little cove, but I won’t. A small public beach cove within walking distance of where we stay. We come here daily for a quick dip.

ö Magazín Bagni San Michele (Santa Margherita Ligure): The easiest and most comfortable swimming in Santa Margherita. Book a sun bed for easy, private beach access.

Do

San Fruttuoso: You can only reach this abbey by the sea via ferry from Rapallo or Camogli but we love taking a morning hike here from Portofino. We try to leave as early as possible to beat the first ferry and have the beach completely to ourselves. It is most famous for Cristo degli Abissi which we swam out to see on a clear sunny day. The statue is about 300m off shore, so please make sure you’re a strong swimmer before deciding to go.

Camogli: Camogli has one of the most photographed harbour fronts in Liguria. After aperitivo and a walk around town, we stayed to watch the sunset over the harbour and the tall, colourful buildings glow at golden hour. Seeing this small fishing village light up at night turned out to be unexpectedly romantic.

Castello Brown (Portofino): A medieval castle perched directly above Portofino harbour with some of the best views on the entire Riviera. Climb up for the panoramic views alone, and the gardens are particularly lovely in summer.

Shop

Parla Come Mangia (Rapallo): A charming local grocery with fresh pasta, cured meats, olive oil and wine. The kind of shop you go into for one thing and leave with six.

Fruttivandolo Mastro Ciliegia: My favourite fruit stand in Rapallo. I always stop here for fresh fruit and snacks to stock up for the week.

Vizi e Sfizi (Camogli): A lovely little alimentari tucked into Camogli's main shopping street. Perfect for gifts and pantry items to bring home.

Stay

Since we have a home base in Rapallo, we have never had to find accommodations. But here are some spots from my research and hotels that people I know have stayed at and loved:

Hotel Excelsior Palace (Rapallo): My best friend got proposed to here, which tells you everything you need to know.

Splendido (Portofino): The legendary hillside hotel above Portofino harbour, and arguably the most iconic address on the entire Riviera. A genuine splurge and a bucket list stay, but you can also come have lunch or dinner here. Book ahead!

Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi (Camogli): A beloved hotel sitting directly above the sea in Camogli, frequently cited as one of the most charming stays on this stretch.

It has been four months since I packed up my life in Los Angeles and moved to Europe. I am still, in many ways, finding my footing: locating the grocery shops I like (and I have already located several “fancy pantries”, naturally), figuring out which park route is best to cycle through on my way home, learning what version of routine is possible here. In the meantime, as I always seem to do regardless of geography, I have accumulated a small and very specific set of things I cannot stop reaching for. This summer's list smells mostly of jasmine and gardenias, and has made the warmer months feel, quietly and considerably, very much mine.

On My Map

Cremer: In the space of one week, I went to Cremer three times. Once for coffee with my new friend Luna. Back the next day with Alberto, ostensibly to show him that “I want to decorate our house like this.” And a third time for a midweek lunch with fellow florist Sasha of MOS Studio, as I hadn’t yet made it to their lunch menu. It feels impossibly homey there, despite the rush of people, like you’re sitting someone’s beautifully curated living room that also feels like an interior design field trip.

Provisions: Naturally, on a handful of Sundays, I will end up at Columbia Road Flower Market. The street becomes so lively with people spilling out of cafés and shops, buying blooms and botanicals, carrying them away by the armful in colourful plastic bags, with a cup of coffee still in their hands. My favourite shop on these streets is what I mentally categorise as a “fancy pantry,” my personal shopping kryptonite. I can never leave without a little something for my home, even if it’s just a preemptive birthday card.

In My Ears

During university I was ambitiously attempting to squeeze in an Art History minor on top of my dual degree. As a qualifying elective I enrolled in a Music History course covering the classics: Schumann, Liszt, Schubert, Bach and many more. For reasons I still cannot fully explain, I could not fight the urge to fall asleep during this class. It may have been the post-lunch timing. It may have been the profound soothing quality of a Romantic piano concerto. It was probably both. Within ten minutes of any piece, I was gone.

This summer I have been trying to brush up on my classical music knowledge, which presents a particular challenge: you cannot simply look up the lyrics when trying to remember a composer. I have been listening to Daniel and Isabel Save Classical Music, a podcast hosted by two classical musicians in lively, affectionate conversation about well-loved pieces. A personal favourite episode: Schumann’s Kinderszenen, linked above.

On My Person

Chunky Red Beaded Necklace: I did a private colour analysis session in Thailand a couple of years ago and learned that my red, given my warm undertone and deeper skin, should be a deep, burnt brick shade specifically. It was a revelation. Since then I have become quietly obsessed with adding that particular red accent to an outfit, and the easiest way in has been this statement bubble beaded necklace I got on sale at Mango. Thrown over anything simple, it does all the work.

Soeur Leather Gloves: I have been cycling all over London on the grab-and-go e-bikes, my preferred mode of transportation (and the best way to see a city, imo!) The handlebars of a well-loved public bike are, however, not something I wish to touch with bare hands. So I bought myself a pair of leather half-gloves specifically for cycling, a small splurge, entirely worth it for how ladylike they make me feel next to the chunky, technical alternative of cycling gloves.

Catbird Swimming Pool Necklace: If I have to take any jewelry on and off daily, best believe within a month (if not weeks) I would’ve misplaced it and it will be gone forever. This summer I have been investing in fine jewelry, necklaces especially, that I simply do not have to remove. This one, as well as the Hundred Summers Chain, has been on me for the entire season, through sun, sand, sea, a copious amount of lotion and beyond.

Damson Madder Harlequin Bikini Set: I have been searching for a swimsuit with a floral appliqué for some time and found this Damson Madder one on sale, complete with a cheeky harlequin diamond pattern. It has been on rotation all summer across every trip to Italy.

Silver Bow Tabi Flats: I love silver shoes! It’s so magical, unexpected and endlessly versatile. I am particularly fond of them in dainty ballerina form, the juxtaposition between delicate and edgy being exactly right. And no, they’re not Margielas. I’ve always felt I could never buy the Margiela Tabi. Originally Japanese working shoes traceable to the 15th century, tabis were brought into western fashion when Martin Margiela took them as inspiration for the Spring/Summer 1989 collection. Call this a hot take, but spending nearly $1,000 on them without directing any of that toward the Asian craftspeople and designers who originated the form has never sat right with me. Mine are from Raboesy and I’ve heard good things about Woodchuck Sato as well!

Hai Lia Dress: Every time I find myself in Shoreditch, I make a point of popping into Hai. The shop is small and beautifully considered: whimsical silk pieces, satin ballerina flats, delicate pearl jewelry. I was rifling through the sale rack on a recent visit when I tried on the most flattering summer dress: a cotton tea-length cut, perfectly fitted at the waist and sweetly flared at the bottom. A very welcome first purchase after being a longtime admirer.

On My Skin

Merit Great Skin Instant Glow Serum: It's hot and I want something light and glowy that I can just pat on my face and go. This is my second bottle and it has been a go-to for lazy summer skin: lightweight, all-in-one, glowy finish. Honorary mention to Rhode Glazing Milk, which I use just as much when I need something slightly richer, especially after some time in the sun.

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice and Probiotic Sunscreen: There is an "Aqua-Fresh" version good for oily skin, which mine very much is, with a nice matte finish once it sinks in. I actually prefer the original. It feels dewy, comfortable and hydrating, and sits beautifully under makeup.

The Ordinary 2% Salicylic Acid Serum: Being oily and acne-prone, too much sun and sunscreen often congests my skin. Salicylic acid is a permanent fixture on my person regardless of season. I love The Ordinary for its straightforward, no-fuss formulas that simply work.

Dam Dam Mochi Mochi Luminous Cream: During summer time, I think it’s as important to be diligent about repairing your skin barrier as much as we are with sun protection. I’ve hit the bottom of this little tub and I love using for a rich, nighttime moisturizer. And, let’s be honest, the name is just too cute.

On My Face

Chanel Les Beiges Bronzing Cream: Cult classic aside, I bought this almost entirely because of how it smells: like gardenias, or jasmine, or both. I use the classic Soleil Tan Bronze shade year round for a healthy, sun-kissed look.

Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge: My mother has always been a loyal Bobbi Brown woman, which meant my first exposure to real adult makeup was, naturally, Bobbi Brown. My go-to shade is Powder Pink for every day, and Fresh Melon when I want something a little more summery.

Summer Friday Dream Lip Oil: Despite the recent comeback of glossy lips, I have never been a glossy lip girl. The look and the feeling of it is slightly too much for me, and it ends up getting all over the place. I have been reaching for this one surprisingly often because it is slick rather than sticky, lightweight, and really pigmented. Warm Beige is the perfect my-lips-but-better shade for my warm medium/tan skin tone.

Merit Signature Lip Blush: I have been quietly devastated since the reformulation of Glossier Generation G — Cake, Fuzz and Malt were my go-tos for a good five years and nothing has come close. Until now. Merit is the nearest match I have found: Bespoke for Malt, Vendome for Cake. Light, buildable, blushy. The Bespoke shade in particular has been glued to my purse since I received it.

On My Body

Jo Malone Wild Bluebell (Travel Size): I have always believed in the signature scent, I really dislike the idea of a cabinet full of half-used perfume bottles. For the past seven years I have been notoriously loyal to Chloé’s Magnolia Alba, before that there was almost a decade of Jo Malone’s Wild Bluebell. I recently picked up a travel size of this nostalgic scent to save luggage weight, and it has been a welcome return to an old favourite for summer.

Ouai Hair Oil: I was on the hunt for a new hair oil after finishing my Olaplex Bonding Oil, took one sniff of this, and looked no further. The notes are listed as Violet, Gardenia and Ylang Ylang, though on me it smells almost entirely of jasmine. Naturally, this was a quick and easy purchase.

Nécessaire Multi-Peptide Body Lotion in Olibanum: I come from a lotion-forward family. My brother and I have been generously moisturised since birth by our mother, and neither of us has survived a day without body lotion since. My current favourite is this one from Nécessaire: rich, deeply hydrating, and the Olibanum scent is a warm vanilla that is not remotely sweet or gourmand, which I strongly prefer. I am on my third bottle and have finished several of their their body wash alongside it.

39BC Oil Body Cleanser in Silk Veil: I discovered this while shopping for a birthday gift at Earl of East. The scent transported me immediately to a garden of night-blooming jasmine, much like the house where I grew up in Thailand. Though technically a body cleanser, the very nice sales associate confirmed he too simply applies it directly and lets the scent linger. I have been doing the same.

Caudalie High Protection Glow Oil: For summer, I love the look and feel of sunscreen oil instead of lotion. It makes me feel like Zendaya at the Odyssey premiere. I picked this up in Marseille and it’s everything I want from a summer body oil: lightweight, luminous, and does exactly what it promises.

Kai Deodorant: My favourite deodorant and an obvious summer staple. The scent is exactly what you would expect from me at this point: white florals, jasmine, gardenia. Have you figured out the obsession yet?

In My Kitchen

Handmade Tuscan Olive Oil Dispenser: In search of some respite from the tourists gathered in the piazza on a recent trip to San Gimignano, we wandered into Corsini Ceramiceh, a handmade ceramic shop still run by Bruno Corsini, who told us in Italian that he has been working in his family-run business since he was seventeen. Everything in the shop, he assured us with some enthusiasm, was handmade and hand-painted. I picked out an olive oil dispenser ornate with bright red chili in the classic Tuscan style, the only one I saw in the shop, and a pair of wooden salad tossers with the most darling ceramic lemon handles.

Yuzu Kosho: I have been obsessed with this condiment since trying it for the first time with a chicken skewer at Torigoya in LA (if I were to gatekeep any restaurant, it would be this one.) Yuzu kosho is a fermented Japanese condiment made from fresh yuzu citrus zest, chili peppers and salt. The result is a spicy paste with a sharp brightness and vibrant floral citrus notes that has become my go-to on any protein (lately salmon), and whisked into salad dressings for that punchy, zippy finish.

On My Night Stand

I was an avid reader and admirer of literature as a teenager, though adulthood has gradually taken my time and attention away from it. Recently I have been trying to retrain my attention span by reading again. I love the classics because they are classics for a reason, it’s so interesting to re-read what you read in school as a grown adult. I have kept the goal attainable: only 200 to 300 pages per book this season. Finishing a book feels so rewarding that you simply want to keep going. It seems to be working. Some new, some old, here is what I have read, and am reading, this summer:

• Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin

• Animal Farm by George Orwell

• Virgin Suicides by Jeffrey Euginides

• Sputnik Sweetheart by Haruki Murakami

• The Colony by Annika Norlin

• Handmaid’s Tale by Margaret Atwood

• Emma by Jane Austen

• Breakneck: China’s Quest to Engineer the Future by Dan Wang

The first time I was in Marseille, I was 19 and the year was 2013. It was the first time I ever went to Europe, stopping over for a couple days on my way to spend 6 weeks in Madrid, taking a summer art history course, staring at Goya and Velazquez and eating dinner, as Spaniards do, at 10pm.

13 years later, a wedding in the French Riviera brought me back to this wondrous coastal city, full of life, spirit and a copious amount of seafood.

On the matter of weddings, I take only a handful of them per year because not only are they laborious and physically taxing (as most floral work can be, if you can believe it), but it also carries a lot of emotional weight for me as the florist, too. Being a fingerprint in someone’s “one night only” moment. That’s a lot of pressure. So after five 16 hour days and 4am mornings, as I left our Airbnb-turned-studio, returned the rental car, and prepared myself to go to the airport, I realised I didn’t even have the energy to head to the airport for my return flight home.

So I did what anyone would: I extended the trip.

Since my first and last trip 13 years ago, Marseille has grown into a bustling, eccentric city full of creative food culture, natural wine bars and young creatives flocking to open them. As a girl traveling alone for the first time in a very long time, I felt very energized and never went without options for places to go, to eat, to see. Most importantly, it felt safe to travel alone. Beyond the graffitied buildings and staircases, Marseille is not a city that performs for you, but warmly invites you in to discover what it has to offer.

Day 1: La Fête de la Musique

I drove back from Hyères, returned my work car and went straight to catch my dearest friend Pauline, who happened to be in Marseille for the day, for a quick lunch at Localino Al Mare. We got some seafood pasta (so apropos!) and a cheeky lunch negroni to start my post-work vacation right.

After lunch, I took a quick uber to Hotel La Relève, the cutest 4-room boutique hotel in the 7th arrondissement, above the beloved La Relève. Each room of the hotel has its own colour: Blue, Pink, Green and Yellow, paired with an associated design style: Tropical, Rococo, Provençal and Mediterranean. I chose ‘Chambre Rose’, the pink room, and was endlessly pleased with the cozy and delightful design of the room.

It was the Summer Solstice and sweltering hot, so after a quick refresh, I decided to take a walk to the water for the rest of the day. On the way, I stopped at T65 Boulangerie for a cup of coffee while music started to play for Fête de la Musique, an annual nation-wide festival where music enthusiasts, professionals and amateurs, are encouraged to play music outside, celebrating the longest day of the year.

Pauline had recommended Piscine Maritime des Auffe, a swimming spot nested at a local fishing port, loved by locals and tourists alike. After a 20-minute walk from my hotel, I arrived and made my way down to the picturesque pool carved into the rocks, I relaxed, read and watched the sunset (at 9:30pm, mind you).

As the music picked up and the crowd started to swell for the evening’s celebration, I wandered curiously from stage to stage, tent to tent, and made a quick stop at Derivé for a cold beer to cool off as I made my way back to the hotel. From bachata, to reggaeton, to trance to disco, I did not expect the collective surge of energy this gave me but it was happily welcomed after a long week of work, I stopped for a dance alone at several spots, let the music sink in, and was reminded that this my first solo trip in a long while. How exhilarating it felt to be alive.

Day 2: Pavillon Southway and Les Goudes

I went downstairs to grab a quick breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant, packed my bags, blew a kiss goodbye to my rose-drenched room and headed out to my second hotel, Pavillon Southway. As I entered, I was knocked sideways by the design of this tiny boutique (only two rooms in this one!) It was like walking onto the set of Saltburn, or Call Me By Your Name, or Marie Antoinette… or Saltburn if it was colour-graded all pastel-y and directed by Sofia Coppola. Either way I was thrilled.

And what’s coming to Marseille if I didn’t go to Tuba Club? From my research I knew the restaurant sat on a pristine cove that would be perfect for today’s (gentle) adventure. So off I headed, a tote bag full of nothing but sunscreen and a beach towel, to the small fishing village of Les Goudes, which is reachable by ferry from Marseille’s Vieux Port.

The wine? Crisp. The water? Fresh. The seafood? Enough to make my little island girl heart sing. I dined on the balcony, laid out by the rocky cove, jumped in the water. Repeat, repeat, repeat. It was the perfect restful day that I terribly needed. Peckish and ready to head back, I stopped to pick up small bites at Boissonerie and Cecile Food Club (the perfect beach picnic food spot, they also have another location in Marseille), and boarded the ferry home at golden hour.

Day 3: Marseille

My plan to take the full day to take the train to Cassis and hike the Calanques was thwarted by the heat, and the fact that I was supposed to “relax” on this last minute vacation. Hotter than the days before, I decided to take my last full day to explore Marseille a little in lieu of another excursion in the sun. I met up with sweet Juliette of Ceju Ceramics, who I’ve admired and spoken to on social media for a long time now, at Pétrin Couchette for breakfast. The pastries here looked amazing, but I opted for the carrot salad focaccia sandwich, because I never underestimate a good looking veggie sandwich when I see one. Of course, it did not disappoint.

Across from the café is Maison Empereur, likely the most famous store in Marseille, is must-visit. The oldest hardware store in France, an endless treasure chest of traditional French cookware, cleaning supplies, and authentic workwear. I was dazzled by the selection. Though my luggage was full of floral tools and supplies, I could not leave without something. Next door is Epicerie L’ideal, or what I categorise as a “fancy pantry” shop, which appeals to my personal shopping kryptonite of pasta, pastes, jams and jarred goodies. My mission of the day was to visit Sarah Espeute Oeuvres Sensibles, showroom of a textile artist that I’ve been adoring for years, which was filled with delightfully embroidered napkins, linens and a carefully curated collection of tableware from several artists.

I popped back to my hotel for some respite from the heat of the day, a quick shower and a change for my highly-anticipated dinner reservation at Ciccino with fellow florist Jérôme of Dix Tulipes, who has tremendously helped me with all the coordination in France during my previous work week. On the way, I stopped at Jogging Jogging and spotted that they also had a restaurant, Cielo Trattoria Jogging, which I noted to come back for on my next trip.

Dinner at Ciccino was easily the highlight of the trip. Crudo to start, clam linguine for seconds. We also shared a steak, swimming in butter, as god intended, this may very well be the best steak I’ve ever had. And, of course, feeling indulgent and naughty, we ordered two desserts. A tiramisu and a chou à la crème with a generous drizzle of chocolate sauce. To top it all off, Jérôme and I uncovered our mutual love for karaoke (my second kryptonite, I could never say no to karaoke), to which he informed me of his favourite spot, Bac2Back Karaoke, just a short 10-minute walk away. How convenient! Completely ignoring my 5:30am wake up call for the airport the next morning, we sang our hearts out through all the top hits of Ariana Grande well into 2am. Thus concludes my near-perfect return to Marseille.

Since this was a post-wedding “rest” solo-trip, I didn’t pack too much into my itinerary and kept it gentle. Below, I’ve included a Google Maps link of all the places I went, and wanted to go, for easy traveling should you find yourself in Marseille, which I can’t recommend enough and will surely be going back very soon.

Eat
La Traverse Café
Pompe Boulangerie
Razzia
Cicile Food Club Malmosque
Ivresse
Khantok
Le Consolat
Limmat
Livingston
Poissonnere Kennedy

Shop
Ensemble Books
Sessun Alma
Sape

Stay
La Traverse
Jogging Houses Samena
Pension Edelweiss

Les Calanques
Calanque de Sugiton
Calanque de Port Pin

Museums
Foundation LeCorbusier Unité d'Habitation
Musée des Beaux-Arts (especially Adrien Viscovi’s “Dormir comme le soleil” installation that is running through January 2027)