I was on my way to meet a friend and had a morning to kill so I took an “R” road route that Google said was only an additional 15 min.

In Ireland, “R” roads are perfect for being curious, taking a bit of a scenic route - short cut. “R” roads lead you through the rolling green countryside, stumbling upon small villages time has forgotten, past pubs you wish you could stop in to and by an endless amount of landscape features that hold ancient secrets of Irelands history.

I came upon a small village called Ardagh, a quiet little place with the typical village trinity (a church, a pub and a small shop) a few locals rambling about tending the flower boxes and chatting with the postman. A sign on the side of the pub wall caught my eye, an image of a big goblet and the words “Ardagh Chalice”… a light went off in my head. I knew of this Chalice! I had admired it many times in the National Museum in Dublin.

One of the greatest treasures of the early Irish Church dating from around 800ad . The chalice is a large, two-handled silver cup, decorated with gold, gilt bronze, brass, lead pewter and enamel, and had been assembled from 354 separate pieces of hammered metal. Featuring exquisite design elements from ancient geometric pattern markings, to animals, birds, and the Christian apostles names- exhibiting the congenial approach of worship early Celtic Christian Monks took to incorporate the pagan beliefs with the “new” Christian teachings .

It was here in Ardagh, that in 1868 two young men were digging potatoes in a big rath (an ancient circular earthen ringfort… aka fairy fort) when they moved a big rock and discovered a horde of ancient treasures, the most precious item being the chalice. One of the finest known works of metal Celtic art to ever be found. Probably hidden during a time of early Viking raids.

I grabbed a coffee & sausage roll in the shop and proceeded to google where exactly the Chalice had been found it… just a quarter mile up the road. I had just driven by this spot, a stone wall step-through into a field, right next to the narrow “R” road.

I had spotted a farmer working in his yard on his tractor and pulled in to ask if I could park there.

Greeted in typical Irish style (warm hello followed by a rapid fire, hospitable interrogation) Pat was the farm owner and his brother Dan was helping him out, two characters to say the least. Before long Pat’s wife Daphne was coming out to inspect the farm yard progress (and the stranger she spotted from the kitchen window).

Pat told me that his was the farm the chalice was brought to the day it was dug up 140 years ago. Covered in muck, the old farmer didn’t think much of it and just sat the chalice up on the outside window sill of the old cottage we were standing next to. Story has it, the local priest stopped in a couple weeks later to visit and noticed the mud covered chalice on the sill and just about had a heart attack. The farmer got 50 bucks from the Bishop, the Bishop got 100 bucks from the Royal Hibernian Academy, and the nation got one of the finest examples of early Celtic treasure yet to be found.

Needless to say, TWO hours later I left Ardagh with a head full of stories, some fascinating local history, an invite to join them at the local Rambling-House Night up the road, a handful of cucumbers from their garden , and some new friends to drop in for a cup of tea next time I’m through!

And THIS is why you take an “R” road in Ireland!

Photo Of chalice & horde from National Museum Dublin

#ardagh #irishroads #staycuriousgetlost

IRISH ROADS:

In Ireland you have “M, N, R & L” roads. The few “M” roads there are such as the M50 are like 4 lane interstates in the US and “L” roads are too narrow for you and the only tractor you’ll pass on it. “R” roads like R523, are perfect for taking a bit of a long way/short cut and finding curious bits of Ireland.

North Macedonia: a Balkan country somewhere in the middle of a bunch of better known countries. An absolutely beautiful place of postcard landscapes, scattered abundantly with rich history and cultural traditions and then blended with the small urban realities of stunted growth that comes with the post-communism era. Its ancient self has stories that are some of the oldest on the planet but its modern self is one that blossomed and faded. A hard working and friendly population who are self sufficient and have built their own economy due to survival inspiring creative entrepreneurialism. A country whose identity is equal parts blended from bits of others. Centuries of power changes, varied religious influences and border shifting have shaped this country, to the point that national identity is somewhere in the middle of others. Old Yugoslavians, Albanians, Turkish, Serbian, Bulgarian - Orthodox, Christian, Muslim… it’s one big smorgasbord of culture. But not blended, they remain seperate and civil and function in their own micro communities yet simultaneously. It is fascinating to me to digest it all as I sit next to the oldest lake in the world sipping strong Turkish coffee and staring off into this hypnotic setting.

The adventures I’ve had just over the past week have been so very interesting and delicious (go see more on my Instagram or Facebook page) but yesterday I had the most delicious bread that brought on an emotion of such great happiness.

Maybe it was the view - sitting in a rural mountainside kafana (restaurant) looking out across terracotta tiled roofs atop old stone buildings, down into the green lake valley below with the bluest sky ever above.

Maybe it was the company - a small group tour of 12 lovely Dutch tourists and me being lead by one passionate local historian, across winding back mountain roads to 3 historic villages.

Maybe it was the experience- the tour was in Dutch language, but it was the only one available so I went along. And even though so friendly and willing to translate, I just tagged along and listened with my eyes. The language barrier became almost an undertone soundtrack to the moments and that isolation allowed for me to observe to much more.

But then the food we enjoyed at lunch just brought it all to a pinnacle. Having to walk into this small village of Vevčani, along narrow, winding, stone paved lanes. Entering the idyllic flowered doorway to discover a beautifully laid table awaiting us.

Platters of fresh vegetables, house made Ajvar (condiment made from sweet bell peppers and eggplants) and Taratur (a refreshing yogurt, cucumber, garlic and walnut dip) , and then the bread!

These beautiful small mounds of moist dense heaven, traditional loaves of what North Macedonian’s call Proja and translated to “cornbread”. But no comparison to what I grew up on back in Missouri!

Interestingly corn is a common crop across North Macedonia, the third most grown grain. Corn was introduced to the Balkans by Ottoman traders in the 1600s and travelers who had been to the Americas. Thriving in the warm, sunny plains mostly of the Vardar River valley, corn quickly became an agricultural and culinary staple in North Macedonian food culture. Post WWII Yugoslavia modernization in agricultural practices saw an uptick in production and for many generations corn is a leading staple product here. And even here in this small village of Vevčani, the traditional 300 year old mill powered by the amazing mountain springs still grind corn into flour meal. The springs here are legendary and at one time Vevčani had 33 mills in operation.

Proja is somewhere in the middle of cake and bread, of main attraction and side dish. A soft yet dense texture, with a satisfying perfection of taste - not too sweet, not quite savory. And no instant urge to slather with something like most breads inspire you to do. This loaf was perfect to stand alone.

At this little restaurant the chef’s recipe was one of instinct it appeared. Made daily for years without a thought given. When I asked for the recipe all I could get was the following: 80% grain (flour) 20% , corn flour (corn meal) , some yogurt, some water, some salt …..

But the internet did not fail me and I found a more exact recipe of what most locals bake according to my villa host. Locally they use a more traditional style of cheese called Belo Sirenje, the most common daily cheese a creamy, sharp, and intensely salty, traditionally made from sheep's milk or a mix of cow/sheep milk. But Feta works perfectly well as a substitute.

Go follow along my adventures over on social media to learn more about this wonderful country and enjoy this little taste of North Macedonia!

Proja - North Macedonian Cornbread

• 3 cups (375 g) corn flour (either yellow or white is fine)

• 3 large eggs

• 1 teaspoon baking powder (pola kesice)

• 1.5 cups (350 ml) mineral/sparkling water

• 4 tablespoons (60 ml) oil

• 1/2 tsp (5 g) salt

• Optional: 6-8oz of crumbled feta cheese

Preheat oven to 350 F (175 C).

Spray an 8×8 square baking pan with baking spray and ensure all corners and sides are well greased. Set aside.

In a mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and then add in the oil, water, salt, baking powder, and lastly the flour. Mix well to combine all the ingredients.

If making with feta cheese, add it to the mixture as well.

Transfer the mixture to the greased baking pan and distribute evenly.

Bake at 350 F (175 C) for around 30 minutes or until it is completely baked through. When done, turn on broiler and leave under the broiler for 2-3 minutes to slightly brown the top.

Remove from the oven, cool slightly and serve.

EAT GOOD - LIVE WELL - ENJOY LIFE

Orkney is a place where history holds more secrets per condensed acre than perhaps anywhere else. And where besides tourism, local life still sustains itself from the local farms and fresh seafood.

A place where mystique hangs in the sea air and distracts you from the outside world. Where the beauty of the place is found where land gently frames the sky showcasing the brightest blue hues and crisp white clouds, crystal like water hugging the shoreline, magnificent slow sunsets, mysterious rolling fog blanketing the seaside fields all hours of the day, and dark night skies beautifully overwhelmed by the endless stars.

ABOUT ORKNEY

An archipelago of around 70 islands and skerries (small rocky outcroppings), located off the north coast of mainland Scotland. Only about 20 are inhabited, and the wildlife and sheep out number the humans. Orkney ‘mainland’ island has a total population of just over 22,000 with the bulk living in the towns of Kirkwall (approx. 8,500) and Stromness (approx. 2,000). and then many little villages and settlements dotting the map. There are 5 smaller islands connected to Orkney Island by man made land bridges called the “Churchill Barriers” made during WWII are part of the northern defenses to protect the naval anchorage.

I only had 3 days so only visited the main island of Orkney (which is the following tips and recommendations) but you could spend months up there exploring the smaller inhabited islands even!

WHEN TO GO

I visited the last week of April and the weather was perfect for me. With 3 full days of sunshine and clear skies at night, it was a bit cool but there also was fewer people visiting. Keep in mind Orkney is considered the cruise ship capital of Scotland, and over 100,000 cruise ship visitors land there a year. Cruise ship season on Orkney runs May to September. In my opinion late April is best!

GETTING THERE:

** I visited Orkney on a budget, at the end of the off-season and found it easy and cheap! Currently Scottish Buses are only 2£ a ride in the Highlands & Islands regions, and with petrol/fuel prices being so high I’d be crazy to drive up here and miss the bargain opportunity.

FLIGHTS: there is well serviced airport in Kirkwall

FERRY SERVICE: There are a few different ferry options from the mainland Scotland to the main-island simply called Orkney. And then other smaller ferry boats from around the main island to the smaller islands.

MY PICK... The Pentland Ferry from Gills to St. Margaret’s Hope, Orkney.

GETTING TO ORKNEY MAIN ISLAND VIA FERRY: The best option in my opinion is from Gills to St Margaret’s Hope on Pentland Ferries.

Allowing both car and foot passengers, with 3 runs a day on a more suitable styled ferry ship for these archipelago waters. The travel takes about an hour and is a bit less expensive than the other options to Orkney.

Gills ferry port is very small and located just a few miles east of Thurso, Scotland and connects to the lovely small village port of St Margaret’s Hope.

The bus service on the mainland does align with the ferry service but you are required to arrive at least 30 minutes before departure time for boarding process. What is great is Pentland ferries will allow you to change your ticket (no fee) if you are running late (or your bus is, like mine did. Pentland is also a locally owned company and the great customer service reflects that, as I (my bus) was late and the port office called me to see if I would make it or wanted booked on the next ferry. And a good pal of mine is the current Captain of the ferry so I got a special treat to go up to the bridge for a visit with him and his friendly crew for a cup of coffee.

GETTING AROUND

Driving a car is always best but not always practical or budget friendly and luckily Orkney has a fabulous bus service. You can easily find bus stops and actually accurate times simply on GoogleMaps (putting in directions to and from locations and then selecting the bus icon instead of the default car icon) It now even live-tracks most buses in Google Maps, but the Stage Coach Bus website/app will be the most accurate to be sure and show you full time tables and stops.

WHERE/WHAT TO EAT

Orkney is one of the best places for fresh seafood in all of Scotland and most of its land is used for agricultural purposes due to the sea climate and extreme fertile soil. Farming on the island is one of the top occupations, with the most intensive agricultural areas in all of Scotland, employing roughly 10% of the island’s working population. The Orkney islands are known for high-quality beef production, with around 51,000 beef cattle, meaning cattle outnumber the human population by more than two to one. Dairy and sheep are also in great supply.

There is a fabulous ORKNEY FOOD & DRINK TRAIL you can follow that will take all the guess work on where to go as well as make you loosen a belt loop or two! The picnic spots across the island are endless but so are the cafes & restaurants.

• Loki Seafood Shack: (located on the edge of Stromness) only open for lunch and often sell out- an amazing place with fabulous owners! Plus they have a great retail shop with fresh fish and ready made meals and other Scottish nibbles.

• The Murray Arms Hotel & Restaurant: (in St Margaret’s Hope) you must order their tremendous Seafood Platter! And the scallops are so perfect here, in part to them also owning their own scallop diving vessel. I definitely recommend a reservation and especially if you want something specific for dinner let them know in advance. Supper nice folks and great young chef in the kitchen.

Make sure to try the following!

• Fresh local Seafood - it’s everywhere!

• Orkney Butter .. absolutely amazing stuff! available everywhere even in the major grocery chains.

• Smoked cheeses from The Island Smokery

• Traditional baked goodies such as Butter Biscuits, Parkin Biscuits, Berra barley baked items such as Beremeal Bannocks

• Steak or lamb, locally sourced on the island truly is mouth watering!

• Orkney Brewing for some really WELL done small batch brewing with a full range of beer styles.

• Spirit Distilling: there is a long tradition of whisky on the island. Highland Park & Scapa are two of the oldest on the island but there are also many new distilleries offering fabulously crafted gins and vodkas as well.

THINGS TO SEE

Orkney’s most notable feature is its numerous well preserved Neolithic archaeological sites scattered across its landscape. There are over 200 scheduled* ancient monuments and over 3000 identified archaeological sites spanning 8,000 years of history, with an average of 3 sites per square mile. From the domestic advancements of Skara Brae’s primitive housing settlement to the purpose of the multiple standing stones and circles on the Ness of Brodgar, possibly the ancient heart of Orkney’s early inhabitants - you will be left in awe of just how NOT primitive early humans actually were.

• Skara Brae : A remarkably preserved ancient settlement discovered in 1850 after a massive storm stripped the turf from the mound, that shows just how advanced ‘primitive’ humans were. From well designed interiors and built in furnishings to interior drainage systems. And then the real mystery, why was it all abandoned over 4500 years ago. Visit right when it opens or at the very end of the day for the best experience and fewer other tourists. Between May and September advance booking is suggested.

• Rings of Brodgar: A massive 130m diameter stone circle and henge. Open 24 hrs , Beautiful sunset viewing over the hills beyond the Loch it sits beside.

• Stone of Stenness: One of the earliest stone circles in the British Isles. Open 24 hrs , great sunset view over the hills beyond the Loch it sits beside. And follow the side path down beyond to the Barnhouse Neolithic Settlement, a 5,000-year-old village situated only a couple of hundred yards away on the banks of the Loch of Harray.

• Maeshowe: A chambered cairn designed to align with the setting sun during the winter solstice, featuring Viking, runic inscriptions. Daily entry is limited so do book tickets in advance to avoid disappointment.

• Tomb of the Eagles: This is a very special site I did not get to visit this trip, but will! The community-owned Isbister Chambered Cairn & Museum—better known today as the ‘Tomb of the Eagles’—is one of Orkney’s top archaeological sites. Discovered by chance by a local farmer in the 1950s, the Stone Age tomb revealed an amazing collection of bones and artefacts including a horde of ancient eagle talons, placed here some 5,000 years ago. You uniquely enter the tomb via a lying on your back and rolling into the tomb on a board with a rope. They do not have online booking, Open 7 days from 10am. Last entry at 3.30pm, site & carpark close at 5pm.

A HANDY GUIDE TO ALL THE ANCIENT SITES: I found a great webpage created by Brodgar Georgian House Self Catering Stay, that compiled a fabulous listing of all the sites with extra details (like where the flash light is to use inside, etc.) , listing by FREE or TICKETED and also listing active summer archeological dig sites you can visit. Brodgar’s owners also offer guided tours, accommodations, time travel events and artwork.

THINGS TO DO

Picnic next to crystal blue shoreline wildlife watching for puffins, gannets, seals & whales , explore the scenic backroads winding through small settlements & villages surrounded by endless rolling hills of farm fields, or visit one of the MANY little museums of folk culture, history and quirky collections.

• St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall: I was fascinated to learn this remote archipelago was home to a magnificent 12th century cathedral! Definitely worth a visit to and though you can wander in and look around on your own I highly recommend taking their 10am guided tour. There is a remarkable amount of rare features, artifacts and hidden bits in this cathedral you will only learn about on the tour. AND check out which days are the special ‘upper’ tour days and plan accordingly. The guides are extremely knowledgable and friendly as well.

• Orkney Fossil & Heritage Center: intriguing collection of fossils from Orkney and around the world, including some rare and beautifully preserved specimens

• Orkney Music Collection: (inside the Fossil Center) Alongside their much-loved fossil and geology displays, in 2026 there is a temporary exhibition explores Orkney’s musical past, featuring records, tapes and CDs from the 1930s to recent, collected by Orkney and Shetland locals and showcasing Robert Milne and other local musicians who helped keep Orcadian music alive.

• Barony Mill: the last working watermill in Orkney – and the only place on Earth still grinding bere, an ancient barley grown on this island since Neolithic times. (definitely prebook your visit to avoid disappointment)

• Scapa Flow Museum: Scapa Flow is a vast, sheltered natural harbour in Scotland’s Orkney Islands, acting as a premier, historically significant anchorage for over 1,000 years. Famous as the primary British naval base in both World Wars, it is now world-renowned for diving on the scuttled 1919 German High Seas Fleet wrecks. Here the museum gives you a glimpse of how important this was to WWII defensives.

• The Orkney Museum: telling the story of Orkney from prehistory to the present day. It is an excellent overview and introduction to the history of Orkney and its treasures.

• Orkney Wireless Museum: is a treasure chest of history. It tells the story of radio from its very beginnings through times of war and on to today. Plus a great collection of ‘spy era’ radio and recording devices!

• The Italian Chapel: A highly ornate Catholic chapel on Lamb Holm island, connected by land bridge to Orkney mainland. It was built during the Second World War by Italian prisoners of war.

FOR A LISTING OF ALL OF MANY MORE ORKNEY’S MUSEUMS go HERE!

WHERE TO STAY:

I personally love a small village stay, and St Margaret’s Hope is idyllic. Located on South Ronaldsay Island (connected to Orkney main via a land bridge), with a ferry port, hourly bus service, a post office shop, 2 eateries and 2 pubs, and located on a gorgeous inner harbour. The locals were lovely to visit with and my simple accommodation was perfect to base out of.

I stayed at The Anchorage. A small inn located by the old harbour and across the street from the bus stop. It’s basic but very comfortable and clean. My room was newly remodeled with all I needed as well as a full kitchen and dining room guests can use to prepare their own meals. Kept extremely tidy and ran by such nice owners. A solo twin room during the last week of April cost me 35£.

There are numerous accommodation options across the main island. A great resource list of all styles of accommodations (from camping sites, to hotels & BnBs) check out Orkney Islander Magazine’s listings and click the photo below to go to Orkney.com’s accommodation listing.

For last minute options (as it can be tough in the summer season to find a place) check out the locally ran Facebook page called ORKNEY LATE AVAILABILITY. Here accommodation owners post last minute availability.

For most scenic and luxurious you might enjoy Orkney Lux Lodges, beautiful pod stay each with a private hot tub and fabulous views looking over the small town of Stomness, of Hoy island and sunset .

Also Orkney Retreats offers various historic properties that have been restored in beautiful fashion. With multiple room size options and experiences from Victorian Farm House to romantic Scandi stays.

DID I FIND THE MYSTIQUE TO ORKNEY?

Yes! The allure is the beauty in the subtle landscape and dramatic sea and sky, the rich history and plethora of historic sites, the fabulous local foods and the tremendously friendly island folks waiting to welcome you and share a smile and a story.

For a more complete listing of ALL things Orkney go to ORKNEY.COM

For more photos and travel tips on my visit to Orkney go find me on social media

*a ‘scheduled’ site in the UK is a nationally important archaeological site or historic building in the UK that is legally protected under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979.

DISCLAIMER: Because it seems you have to in these modern times - this is strictly me a travel lover and professional just sharing some great travel tips that were helpful in my own personal trip planning, no advertisements and no payment or compensation was shared given to me.

** all pictures were taken by me unless captioned otherwise with source.

Dublin is a special place, a wonderful unique culture of its own. Being over 1000 years old there is ALOT of history here. Many come in search of history, in search of ancestry and even more in search of the best pint of the black stuff aka The National Drink aka Guinness, with close to 1000 licensed places to get a pint and over 700 of them serving a meal plus hundreds of historic points of interest and things to do, it’s important to hit the ground running efficiently with a plan of exploration!

Below i’ve thrown together a handy list of a few of my favorite Dublin museums of interest, pubs, music spots and creative classes. You’ll have access to my Dublin Guide PDF which is hot-linked so you can easily go and research more. I’ve also included links to my GoogleMaps you can save and use as you explore the city!

Read more

I often have friends and clients reach out to me, excited to get itinerary help on their upcoming trip to Ireland. They always start their planning conversation with, “We land in Dublin for a few days and then have a couple days we want to go to Cork, Galway, Dingle, The Cliffs of Mohr and maybe Giants Causeway too. Do you have any suggestions?” My first advice is book a longer vacation!

I’ve been exploring backroads, tiny villages and ancient sites here for 15 years and still have not seen it all! It’s a magical country that on a map looks small and compact but it’s magical in the way that Mary Poppin’s handbag seems bottomless or like Harry Potter’s small pop up tent accommodates a suite for 10.

The country’s roads and rolling hills seem to be endless with places to stop and see or experience every half mile practically. The roads are narrow with unrealistic speed limits often (unless you’re a rally car driver). There is a great cross country highway system, but that’s not as fun to explore. And local traffic is often farm machinery, public buses or people/livestock out for a stroll on the roads. Add all that into a day’s worth of driving and exploring and most days you’ll be lucky to travel 50 miles.

So what to do with those 2 to 4 extra days in Ireland, away from Dublin?

If you can’t do a full week in Ireland, don’t worry The Ancient East (eastern half of Ireland) holds more historical sites and beautiful views than you ever imagined. I always recommend to narrow down your planning while also leaving room for unexpected finds along the way.

Here are three best steps to planning your all-too-short trip to Ireland…

1. Be realistic: don’t try and cross the country. There are so many gorgeous views, endless historic sites, scenic mountains and beautiful coastlines on the east coast, just a short drive from Dublin.

2. Don’t over schedule your day: there is ALOT to see in this small country and part of the real fun of a roadtrip are the spontaneous stops. Spotting a *brown sign and turning off down the lane to find the historic site, pulling into a roadside shop or petrol station to find it hides an amazing local baker and ideal coffee break, taking a suggestion from a local you met in the pub last night who told you about a curious location or a beautiful vista nearby, not on your map, for you to go find today. Even though summer daylight goes to 10pm, you’ll be surprised how you just didn’t get to everything on that day’s list.

3. Decide what is most important: everyone always says “we want to see it all!” (refer to #1) So I always suggest write down your top 3 interests and build your days around those, then you’ll be surprised how much more stuff you stumble upon in route.
   Consider these for your Top 3 Lists:

   1. History (but narrow down time periods as history here goes back 10,000 years; Neolithic, Iron Age, Medieval, Norman, English Occupation, Political History… )

   2. Scenic Views: mountain views, dramatic coastline, beaches, midland bogs

   3. Food & Drink: I always plan my night stays near a traditional pub and amazing food (both of which are easy to find everywhere here!)

   4. Activities: hiking, museums, walking tours, distillery or brewery visits, cheese making classes, artisan crafting lesson, festival or musical events.

4. If you're going to rent a car, do it at the airport and avoid Dublin! Traffic, one way streets, no parking - just the start of woes when driving in Dublin. So my advice is land in Dublin airport and take a taxi (or one of many buses or airport shuttles) into Dublin for your first few nights! Then take a taxi (or bus) back to the airport and pick up your rental car for your Irish roadtrip.

A Day Or Two Out Of Dublin….

Here are a few of my most recommended areas to explore if you only have a couple of days outside of Dublin to explore. The eastern half of Ireland is full of beauty and history to explore, so even with one to three days out of Dublin you will still feel like you’ve been on a big adventure!

SLANE & COUNTY MEATH: (west of Dublin) Known as the Royal County due to its deep connection to the ancient High Kings of Ireland. Historically, Meath (or Mide), means "middle," and was an early medieval kingdom that served as the center of power in Ireland. County Meath has always been an important region for Ireland’s evolution over the millennia, lush with good agriculture ground and rivers extending to the sea, so everyone from ancient neolithic settlers, to christian monks, to rude Vikings, to Norman families, to English occupiers also found this area important to claim … and their history can still be found in the endless ancient stone cairn sites, beautiful church ruins, high crosses and round towers, castles of various periods, Georgian manor houses and more.
Where to stay: Slane village makes a lovely overnight location. With a top rated boutique hotel on the only Main Street and numerous BnBs in and around the village, great eateries for your evening meal and numerous little pubs in the village full of friendly locals (plus some wonderful countryside pubs you can take a taxi out to for a fun evening).

WICKLOW MOUNTAINS: (south of Dublin) here lies Ireland’s majestic Wicklow Mountains. A beautiful region to enjoy the drive through as much as the destination to. Winding south out of Dublin on the R115 (known locally as the Old Military Road), accessed via Rathfarnham, offering dramatic views through Glencree and the Sally Gap. This route takes roughly 1–1.5 hours to reach the heart of the mountains, passing through rugged terrain, by Lough Tay, and leading toward the must-visit Glendalough monastic site. Glendalough not only is a beautiful historic site to explore but the walking paths leading from the site are a must as well for a few hours of exploration if you are an outdoors type. From Glendalough you can continue your drive south to the quaint village of Avoca, home to a historic woollen mill, or head to Avondale Manor for a house and garden tour and experience their engineering wonder of their Tree Walk (Beyond the Trees Avondale) Brittas Bay for coastal walks, and the scenic Meeting of the Waters.
Where to stay: Clonegall village is a small quiet village sitting on the West Bank of River Derry. Known as the starting point of the Wicklow Way trail and features the 17th-century Huntington Castle. A wonderful place to stop for a night after a full day of. driving, but only a couple of BnBs just on the edge of the village. With a classic general store & hardware store and two wonderful old school pubs for you to spend your evening chatting away with locals. It’s also a great jumping off point for the next morning whether you want to continue on south to Wicklow, Waterford or the gorgeous south eastern coast line.

CARLINGFORD: (north of Dublin) a picturesque, medieval coastal town in County Louth, Ireland, nestled between the Cooley Mountains and Carlingford Lough. An ancient walled town that it offers world class local oysters and renowned outdoor actives, alongside historic sites like King John's Castle. It is famous for its oyster festival, traditional pubs, and vibrant, narrow streets. Wander on your own or take a historic walking tour or guided hike up the mountain. There is a seasonal ferry on Carlingford Lough that will run you across to Northern Ireland as well as they host evening sunset & music cruises. There is actually a lot to do and see here! The drive north to Carlingford via the N2 from Slane is endless picturesque fields and small historic sites (watch for the “Brown Signs”). On the way you can detour to Dundalk a seaside town known for its brewing and whiskey heritage. Then once in Carlingford you’ll find you will never want to leave.
Where to Stay: Carlingford ! The pubs here are iconic, full of locals and weekend tourists, and surprisingly many of them for such a small town. There is a fabulous food scene here and many hotels and BnBs to choose from. You are also just a 15 minute drive from the Northern Ireland border for more exploration to the north.

Looking for your own personalized itinerary?

If you are wanting a personalized itinerary to suit your own interests and specific time lines, contact me for more details and pricing on my Ireland Itinerary Services.
And make sure to SUBSCRIBE to this Substack for a Subscribers-Only post with further details on where to eat, drink, shop, explore and sleep when you have a few days beyond Dublin to soak in all the beauty of Ireland!

Want some detailed-recommendations on where to sleep, eat & drink on your “Not Just Dublin” days exploring? SUBSCRIBE to get the details!

Follow The Brown Signs!!
Brown with white lettering road signs can be found across Ireland and lead to fabulous historic and tourist sites. These signs generally indicate places of cultural, historical, or recreational interest. There must be thousands of these and unfortunately there is no single, consolidated online list but they are a great drive by indicator of something fabulous nearby to go discover!

Three in the afternoon on a chilly March day in Ireland, trying to overcome a less than perfect morning as well as escape the armageddon-ish vibe the world has going on, I decided reading a book at the pub might be the cure to my woes.

Many Irish pubs are no longer open during the day, maybe a sign of modern times, healthy lifestyles, zero-tolerance for drink driving… but also combined with a poor economy, a change in habits post COVID, challenging operational costs and a generational shift it seems to only have widen the wound and accelerate the potential demise of the Irish country pub .

Myself a fervent supporter of tradition (like Irish pubs), set out on a back road drive with great optimism to get lost eventually finding a new ruin to explore with a finish at a pub.

Crisscrossing over back lanes I finally approached one of my favorite little pubs, Sally Gardens Pub & Shop… a locals-kinda pub attached to a rural grocery shop at a crossroads outside of Slane Ireland. It was quiet when I pulled in, but I knew to ask in the little shop if the pub was open … “not until 5:00” the man behind the counter said.

I thanked him, tucked my book under my arm and sadly returned to my vehicle to chart the afternoon’s next backroad destination… maybe explore an ancient site or take in some more medieval church ruins?

While sitting there in the car, cruising my GoogleMaps before setting off, I hear a tap on my window - the old man from the shop inviting me in for a pint. He insisted I come in cause I was to find nothing else open until the evening.

As we slid behind grocery counter and went through the curtained door way, him thoughtfully apologizing for the chill inside as the fire was not yet lit, I was greeted by the same polished wooden bar & painted stone walls I remembered from years before. A comfortable space that was quiet and welcoming.

We had a nice chat as he poured my 1/2 pint of Smithwicks, implementing the usual Irish interrogation techniques (who, where, what, why… all in the most friendly technique of verbal waterboarding).

Eventually a little light went off in his eyes semi-recognizing me, as I mentioned my fond memory of a girls night here with my American friends MANY years ago. I’m sure our rowdy laughter while playing “rings” in the back corner was more remembered than our champion Ring Toss skills.

Ironically today there were no rings in house due to the local Ring’s team borrowing them for this past weekend’s All Ireland Rings Championships in Dublin!

But there in the corner, the cherished old board we played is still hanging , now hidden away in a kitschy reliquarian wood frame box with a 90’s-esque bird cage clock hanging on front as a decoy. Hidden away to those not worthy enough to play on Sally Garden’s nearly 200 year old Ring Toss Board.

There I spent a few hours on the stool, chatting with yer man, buying a few things in the shop, finishing a few chapters in my book and finishing the visit sipping black currant Mi’ Wadi (iykyk), all the while relishing the magic that happens in places like this.

The Irish pub is not dead (yet), we just need to remember to get out and support these traditional spaces and the hard working publicans trying to keep them open for us while preserving an important part of Irish culture.

……..

I love a good Irish country pub and below are a few of my backroad favorites in County Meath to put on your Ireland Road Trip list:

Read more

Commonly travelers will plan their dream first trip to Scotland and book their overnights in Edinburgh, Inverness, St. Andrews, Oban, & Skye. All of these are lovely places, but they are also crowded and more expensive than the alternatives. This is the first in my series of alternative destinations to help you plan a more efficient and budget friendly trip to Scotland while also discovering a more authentic cultural experience a little off the beaten path.

These places not only do I love for their beauty and history but they are also strategically located and will allow you to be able to explore lesser known gems as well as those bucket-list cities for a day trip. A rental car in Scotland is always best to go and find the curious little countryside gems or scenic coastal hideaways but if you are not comfortable driving on the opposite side of the road or maybe a rental car is just not in the budget there are great alternatives in Scotland. Most all the spots i’ll list are extremely well connected to public transportation options and I find the bus and train options in Scotland to be wonderful compared to my rural America home, which is non existent in public services.

GLASGOW: THE EDINBURGH ALTERNATIVE

Choose Glasgow instead of Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is a dream destination for many people but Glasgow offers you a more ‘local vibe’ with a fabulous assortment of historic sites, some of the best restaurants in the country, iconic pubs filled with friendly locals, and often a more comfortable and affordable stay than Edinburgh.

Glasgow has a long and fascinating history. Founded along the shore of the Clyde river which has been the beating heart of its evolution for centuries. St. Mungo landed in the 6th century bringing Celtic Christianity and followers. By the 15th century Glasgow had became an intellectual hub with the founding of The University of Glasgow in 1451. The 18th century ushered in Glasgow as a global super power, with a huge wealth funding the growth from the tobacco trade in the Americans and the city becoming the world-leader for textiles, engineering and shipbuilding. And like most thriving old world metropolis’, industrial decline and social challenges arrived in the early 20th century and the city quieted becoming a financial focused city establishing modern-for-the-times infrastructure that is still seen today in the gorgeous towering architecture and the 130 year old subway system.

Edinburgh is only an easy 30 minute train ride away!

There are 2 major train stations that come into Glasgow.

• The Queen Street Station gets you to Edinburgh and northern routes.

• The Central Station gets you south to the UK and some western routes.

For your day-trip to Edinburgh, you can easily purchase your train ticket the day of in the station from a kiosk machine. Select Waverly Station for the most convenient station point in Edinburgh. Trains start early and run late and there are over 100 trains a day leaving Queen Street Station that will get you to Edinburgh for around $15 USD.

Glasgow is known The Dear Green Place“. This comes from the Scottish Gaelic nameGlaschu, which translates to “green hollow,” “green glen,” or “dear green place”

Glasgow for centuries, has been a cultural gem and still very much is! There is great neighborhood pride here, a city full of ‘locals’ living daily lives but also so much history and so many things to do. This listing i’m sharing is not even half of what I would recommend but for a 3-4 night stay this will definitely show you the MUST’s and convince you to visit Glasgow again!

HOW TO GET AROUND:

• Walk: Glasgow is a great walking city. There are a few minor hills woven into the urban routes and the city is spread out a bit (when the subway comes in handy) but once in a selected neighborhood, walk to explore the fabulous nooks and crannies!

• The Glasgow Subway, affectionately known as the "Clockwork Orange" is a historic 10-kilometer circular underground system, being the third-oldest in the world (opened 1896). It serves 15 stations across the city centre and West End, running every 4 minutes during peak times. It is a vital, fast, and iconic mode of transport, recently modernized with new trains.

• The Bus: There are SO many buses and honestly GoogleMaps is excellent for route planning and identifying nearby bus stops and times. I frequently use it in major cities when traveling and most always the times are accurate. And many of the main route stops have a digital board showing the bus number and arrival time.

• Taxis: There are cabs everywhere to flag down and most major corners have a taxi rank lined up with them in the evening. Not always cheap but quick and easy!

There is a city website called Glasgow life , a cultural resource where you can find endless events, museums, and ideas for your time in Glasgow. Be warned it will be a rabbit-hole to fall down with so much information about Glasgow sites and events and sometimes it’s a bit clunky but it’s worth the time to dig around to discover and learn before visiting Glasgow

GLASGOW NEIGHBORHOODS TO EXPLORE

CITY CENTER: with 2 major train stations in Glasgow city center, you’ll find a bustling city center of full of shopping and dining, music venues, historical architecure, a few theaters and full of Glaswegians.

SEE & DO…

• Britannia Panopticon Music Hall: tour this fascinating step back in time only recently rediscovered a few years ago! It is the world’s oldest surviving music hall, opened in 1857/58 and located on Trongate street. A rare, historically significant, and largely unrestored "hidden gem" that operated as a bawdy Victorian music hall, later evolving into vaudeville featuring variety acts (Laurel & Hardy got their start here), early cinema & silent films, and even famously held an indoor carnival and a zoo in the basement! Today you can tour the space during the day and attend a menagerie of fabulous events in the evening.

  

• Sloanes Bar: Not only is this Glasgow’s continuous oldest pub BUT upstairs holds a secret.. a beautiful and historic Victorian grand ballroom where they host their famous weekly Friday night Ceilidh featuring a live band, caller, and traditional Scottish dancing.

  

• Glasgow Central Station Tours: experience a behind-the-scenes guided journey exploring the station's hidden history deep beneath the bustling modern platforms, including the abandoned Victorian vaults, "ghost" platforms, and a the social history of Glasgow from the World Wars

  

NIBBLE & SIP…

• The Pot Still: one of my most favorite pubs in the world! A renowned family-run, traditional Scottish pub established in 1867 near Central Train Station, celebrated for its extensive selection of over 1,000 whiskies and expert staff. It’s a cozy space both standing at the bar and sitting on the benches. With a historic feeling interior of dark wood and whisky behind the bar stacked to the ceiling (they climb the walls to get your bottle) and enjoy one of their famous meat pies while you sip!

• Machintosh At The Willow: one of the last Machintosh designed Tea Rooms from the early 20th century. Gorgeous space and lovely, historic place for lunch!

• Blue Lagoon Fish & Chips: icon of fish & chips in Glasgow with dine-in seating as well. Portions are huge so you may want to share!

• Atholl Arms: Near the bus station and Queen Street Train station is this old school gem. Filled nightly friendly post-work locals heading home. They also serve traditional pub grub.

• The Horseshoe Bar: established in 1884, a historic city-centre institution famous for having the longest continuous bar in the UK (104 feet, 3 inches), renowned for its Victorian-era ornate, dark wood interior, daily karaoke, affordable classic pub food, and a lively friendly atmosphere. (they do have sports TVs so a bit of the old vibe is gone, but still worth a stop in to belly up to that historic bar!)

HILLHEAD: step off the underground subway into a mixed bag of local vibe, creative bohemian and victorian time warp. The Hillhead neighborhood is a buzzing district full of great shops, food, bars & a couple of historic stops. Sandwiched between the University and the posh West End neighborhood you’ll find a great selection of small shops, diverse dining and great nightlife.

DO & SEE…

• Historic Stops: near by is the Hunterian Museum: the oldest public museum in Scotland, with collections spanning arts, sciences and humanities, The Hunterian is at the forefront of university museums around the world

  

• Explore Ruthven Lane & Dowanside Lane: This little back-alley loop mews has antique & vintage shops, book stores and little cafes & restaurants. Plus just being off the main Byres Road where you’ll find loads more small and chain shops and locals buzzing about!

• Glasgow Botanical Gardens: founded in 1817 located between the Hillhead neighborhood and the West End, is the renowned Victorian public park featuring extensive plant collections, temperate/tropical glasshouses, and the Victorian-era Kibble Palace. Situated by the River Kelvin, it offers scenic woodland walks, a national tree fern collection. (free

  

NIBBLE & SIP…

• Jinty McGuinty: a fabulous old school Irish bar where locals gather for an afternoon pint.

• Curlers Rest: classic Scottish comfort food in a laid-back pub with old-meets-new decor featuring exposed brickwork and an open fire.

• Bothy Glasgow: relaxed Scottish fare

• Chaakoo: Rich curries and insprirations from Bombay.

THE WEST END: Known as the more posh end of Glasgow centered around Byres Road, the West End is known for its beautiful architecture, charming interesting shops, lively nightlife and parks. Locals meet here for lunch or dinner or shop the many small businesses.

DO & SEE…

• Wander the lovely streets of the west end from Byrne road down along the river to or through the University Cloisters, down into the park and to Kelvingrove Museum. Here is a great self walking tour map!

• Caledonia Books: a long histories shop of 2 floors of fabulous secondhand and antiquarian books, with a notable non-fiction section.

• Voltaire & Rousseau Bookshop: a crazy deep dive of piles of secondhand an antiquarian books!

• Albamusic: specialists in second hand and antiquarian sheet music.

• Kelvin Rooms: ethical but old school homewares & gifts.

• Jimmy Egypt Musical Instruments: an icon in the Glasgow music world. Mostly guitars but can find some wonderful folk pieces as well.

NIBBLE & SIP…

• The Bell: last of the old school pubs in this area, with a lovely fire and good pints!

• Kothel: a fabulous Mediterranean menu of sandwiches, cakes, artisan breads and great quality coffee

• Brett: one of the best meals ever! Natural wine menu, small plates, creative fresh menu, open kitchen plan. Just a fabulous dining experience!

• Mellis Cheese Shop: a wonderful selection with a great staff. Grab some picnic goodies and enjoy in Kelvingrove Park!

• Goat in the Tree: casual & authentic Moroccan - spectacular and a bargain!

• The Left Bank: fabulous little brunch/lunch spot!

  ---

KELVINGROVE:

DO & SEE…

Kelvingrove Museum is a stunning architectural treasure trove of not only Glasgow’s rich art & design history (Charles Rennie Macintosh & Mary Macdonald and also the Glasgow Boys of the early 1900’s) but also art gems from Dali to Turner to rotating exhibits in their 22 halls to explore.

Kelvingrove Park: take a walk through the lovely Victorian park that lies between University Hill and the Finneston neighborhood. Where you can stroll the 34 acres along the River Kelvin, enjoy a picnic on one of the numerous benches or even book play time & balls at the traditional Bowls Green and play a round in the sun.

FINNESTON: And just a couple blocks away from Kelvingrove is the Finneston area, once a working man’s neighborhood situated on the north bank of the River Clyde between the city centre and the West End, but lately becoming a trendy place to find amazing places to enjoy dinner or grab drinks.

DO & SEE…

• Cool shops down Hidden Lane (a small hidden alcove with artist studios & shops)

NIBBLES & SIPS…

• Amazing food - Crabshakk, Porter & Rye, Ox & Finch, Murphy’s Pakora Bar

• and Great pubs like The Ben Nevis and The Islay Inn

• Visit one of the BEST coffee shops in the world tucked away up a residential street in an old 20th century musical society building, tremendous coffee and fabulous lunch.. Ottoman Coffee.

The East End

The East End of Glasgow, here St. Mungo laid down roots back in the 6th century and still rests beneath the Cathedral. It’s a historic, culturally rich, and slowly gentrifying district east of the city center. Known for its strong working-class roots, iconic venues like the Barrowland Ballroom, and the famous Barras (flea) market.

DO & SEE…

• Glasgow Cathedral: an absolute MUST when in Glasgow to see the real history! built upon the original 1197 structure, here you’ll find 1000+ years of Glasgow history, St. Mugo’s remains in the crypt, exhibited collections and some of THE BEST volunteer guides to lead you and direct you or just answer your questions. The enormous necropolis on the hill behind it also is a lovely walk and provides a fabulous view from the top.

  

• St Mungo Museum: eclectic collection of religious art and artifacts spanning centuries.

• Provands Lordship House: Museum in city's oldest house built in 1471, with 17th-century furniture by Sir William Burrell, and an interesting seasonal folk garden.

• Barrowland: iconic 1900-capacity live music venue in an atmospheric, rocking former dancehall, with bars.

• Barras Market: Long-established, outdoor, weekend market for bric-a-brac, vintage goods and antiques

  

  .

NIBBLE & SIP…

• Thomson’s Coffee Gallowgate: Scotland’s oldest still established coffee roaster , cakes and sit-in coffee as well.

• The Saracen Head: since 1775 is a renowned, historic, and unpretentious East End pub, often described as an “unapologetic,” character-filled local institution.

  ---

WHERE TO SLEEP…

There are MANY options for accommodations in Glasgow but here are a few of my favorites and why.

• Piping Tryst Hotel at the National Piping Center: with only 8 rooms, housed in a beautiful historic building, The Pipers’ Tryst Hotel is a comfortable home-from-home located in the heart of theatre-land in Glasgow’s vibrant city centre. Connected to The National Piping Centre and with a lovely small cafe/bar on the main floor. And I have found it VERY affordable and a great location, just on the edge of the hustle and bustle but still walkable.

• The VOCO Grand Central: this updated victorian hotel attached to Glasgow’s Central Train station is the best location! Rooms are large and great staff. Lovely bar overlooking the station platforms. All forms of transportation is on the doorstep. Rates are typically very fair for the season.

• Yotel Glasgow: super affordable, super convenient, always clean and I usually manage to get an upgrade when I ask nicely.

DO YOU WANT A PERSONAL ITINERARY FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO GLASGOW OR SCOTLAND?

Email me at rucksackfoodie@gmail.com or DM here if you are looking for just a little bit of help planning your Scotland adventure with a basic itinerary to follow or would like a personalized suggested list of Must-Sees & Must-Do’s.

Spices like cinnamon and cloves and even sugar didn’t arrived after the crusades (11th century) extremely expensive and mostly used medicinally. It would be another couple hundred years before these items became more widely affordable and used in cooking and baking. And even tea was not common in this part of the world until the 18th century (especially after 1785), the English crown made tax cuts making it more accessible and launching it to become a daily staple across classes.

Early on bread was a common item found on tables in rural communities & small villages thanks to shared mills for grain and communal ovens for baking. In a simple Welsh home, you would have taken the last bits of your weekly leftover bread dough made from hand milled grain, eggs, and when lucky thrown in some dried fruits and then probably cooked in a communal oven, or baked it in the hot hearth embers or using a bake stone (griddle plate).

One of the earliest and most delish of traditional breads in some parts of Wales was Bara Brith bread. Traditionally a yeast based style of bread with tea soaked fruits added at first and then centuries later evolving into a sugar & flour-heavy fortified cake like bread when sugar became an everyday household staple in the 19th century. Regionally distinctive across Wales as to what was on hand but a similar practice of bread making is found in food traditions across the Celtic & British cultures.

The social aspect of sharing a cup of tea and a slice is found across the Celtic nations and that slice looks and tastes like cousins… The Irish call it “bairín breac”, the Scots “Dundee Cake”, the English “Lardy Cake” and the Welsh “Bara brith” .

All basic recipes with common elements but distinctive ingredient use such as fat (lard) or fermented with ale foam or dried fruit soaked in leftover cold tea. Even though Ireland, Scotland, England & Wales are fiercely different, the similarity in traditions and culture especially when it comes to foods is notable. A result of similar environments, cultivation practices and hostile amalgamations, for example…. The Welsh were most likely early Britons, left-over Romans mixed with Celts, and invaded by Picts & Saxons… a familiar pattern. And food historians have traced that baking scraps of leftover bread with honey to sweeten was a common trick of Saxon baking… the origin perhaps of all those cousin breads, Welsh Bara Birth for certain. And even in Wales, the origin of Bara Brith bread/cake is near folklore and every community seems to have their own method of deliciousness in ingredient use and preparation.

On my recent road trip around Wales we discovered both the yeast based bread and the sweeter cake versions of their Bara Brith everywhere we went. Both styles of bread/cake could be found on grocery shelves and almost all cafes and coffee shops had the sweet cake bread style on their dessert slice offerings. Both are fabulous slathered with rich salty butter (the Welsh do butter even better than the Irish!!) and a fruit jam or more honey is not even necessary but a further indulgence for sure!

I’ve shared a recipe below for the sweeter cake style bread that was shared with me from a lovely lady in Machynlleth Wales.

And if you want to discover more traditional Welsh recipes the Museum Wales website has a great food archive to deep dive.

Mwynhewch eich bwyd!

(The Welsh equivalent for Bon appétit!)

BARA BRITH

(sweeter cake style Welsh bread)

400g mixed fruit (e.g. sultanas, raisins, currants)

300ml strong hot tea (

250g self-raising flour

1 teaspoon mixed spice (this is a common store item across the UK and is a mixture of cinnamon, coriander, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, allspice, and mace)

100g dark brown muscovado sugar (this style of sugar gives a slight molasses flavor)

1 free range egg, beaten

Honey to glaze

Put the dried fruit in a bowl and pour over the tea, mix in the sugar and stir well to dissolve. Leave to soak for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Next day, sift the flour and spice into the soaked fruit (no need to drain the tea) and stir in the egg. Blend well together.

Preheat the oven to 180°C /Gas 4. Line a 900g loaf tin with baking paper and pour in the mixture.

Bake for approximately 1 hour until the cake has risen and cooked through.

Leave to cool on a rack. Warm a little honey to drizzle over the surface of the warm cake for a glazed topping.

best if store for 2 days before eating. Serve sliced with butter.

This recipe can be doubled to make 2 loaves and will keep for up to 7 days.

…………..

** historic photos not captioned from Amgueddfa Cymru: Museum Wales is a charity, and a family of seven national museums and one collections centre located across Wales. A wonderful collection of information and sites to visit to learn more about this beautiful and historic “country”.

Butter lovers prepare for the long story of why the first days of February are the time to celebrate a goddess and a saint with this ancient food and a recipe at the end. (Worth it, I promise!)

February 1 till February 4 in Celtic traditions is known as Imbolic and features the goddess Brigid, based upon **the astrological midpoint between the Winter Solstice and the Spring Equinox representing the awakening of nature and the return of light. In Christian tradition, February 1 it’s known as St Brigid’s feast day, a day to welcome spring and worship the charitable icon of legend and Irish history. What is consistent in both, is the inspiration and faith in a woman’s story of legendary charity, miracles and spring time abundance. The ancient goddess Brigid & the christian St Brigid symbolically became a bridge between the old pagan ways of Imbolc and the new Christian tradition that was being spread.

Across history (and across the Irish Sea to Scotland and Europe) you’ll find her name with many spellings: Brigid/Bridgit/Bride/Brighid/Brydget, all with a cloudy origin story. An uncanonized saint but revered by the Irish since her death in 525 AD, who was regarded as a patroness of healers, poets, blacksmiths, and importantly agricultural and dairy workers especially in Scotland.

Her legend is told of immense charity and as a child she was said to have given away her mother’s entire store of butter to the poor, however the butter was miraculously replenished in answer to her prayers. Why she is often depicted with a cow.

By medieval times in Scotland she was highly venerated as a Christian saint even though there was no record of her ever visiting Scotland. You can still find many places names around the countryside (Kilbridie (Gaelic for church of Bridie/Brigid, Bridein, St Brigid Kirk) where communities felt so moved by their reverence for her.

Most Scottish traditions were around home and farm life and a day of good weather and/or a full moon only reinforced the good year ahead. The ancients might have visited sacred standing stones or circles and later Christian’s would visit holy wells, circling them in meditation, praying for a healthy herd and abundant field or fishing nets.

In the Scottish Hebrides, she was known as “the golden-haired Bride of the kine” and would have been invoked in milking and butter churning songs to insure abundant supply for the year.

In coastal areas of Scotland (and Ireland), the highest tide nearest this special day (on a full or new moon) was a time for gathering seaweed to fertilize the crops, and marking the beginning of agricultural activity for the year.

This time of year is also the start of calving and lambing season, in both Ireland and Scotland, farmers focusing on the return of life to the land, the lengthening of days, and the protection of their herds and often still you might see a small St Brigid prayer card hanging on the milking parlor wall.

For thousands of years and even today many modern farming households make a batch of homemade butter in honor of St. Brigid. This Imbolic, I whipped up an easy batch of fresh butter and walked down to the Moray Firth, watching the sunset and waiting for the full moon to rise. With homemade butter and crackers and a wee nip by the sea, a lovely way to honor the tradition surrounding this ancient day.

• **The astrological midpoint (cross-quarter day) between the Winter Solstice and the Spring Equinox is known as Imbolc, a cyclical event which typically falls between February 1 & February depending on the year.

………………………………..

Easy Homemade Butter

INGREDIENTS

• Cream: 600ml (approx. 2.5 cups) of double cream or heavy whipping cream (minimum 35-40% fat)

• Salt : A heavy pinch of fine sea salt for flavor & better shelf life. I love East Neuk Salt from Fife region of Scotland!

• Equipment: A stand mixer (with whisk or paddle attachment is great, but I used a hand mixer with easy success. You can also use a food processor or fill a jar with a tight lid and give to your kids to continuously shake for hours

  

1. Churn: Pour cream into a mixer bowl or jar. Whip on medium to high speed

2. The cream will turn to whipped cream, then stiff peaks, and finally separating into yellow butter solids and thin white buttermilk.

3. Pour off the buttermilk (save this for baking).

4. Wash with a quick dip the butter solids in a bowl of ice-cold water. Then lift out and knead/squeeze it to remove residual buttermilk, I use a wooden spoon/spatula pressing against the bowl edge letting the liquid drain off. Do this 2–3 times until it runs clear.

5. Squeeze out excess water, add salt if desired, and shape into a log or block using butter paddles or wooden spoons and parchment paper.

6. Store: Wrap in parchment paper and keep in the fridge for up to 1–2 weeks.

Tips for Success

• Temperature: While some prefer room temperature for faster churning, using chilled cream often helps with the separation process.

• Avoid Mess: When using a mixer, place a tea towel over the top to prevent buttermilk from splattering everywhere.

  

  …………………………….

Easy Homemade Cracker Recipe

Ingredients:

2 cups all-purpose flour (or a mix with whole wheat)

1 tsp sea salt salt

1 tsp sugar

2/3 cup water

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

…and seasonings for flavor boost! I added garlic granules, onion flakes, cracked black pepper, rosemary

Instructions:

1. Mix: Whisk all dry ingredients, then stir in water and oil until a dough forms.

2. Rest: Let the dough rest for 15–30 minutes to make it easier to roll.

3. Roll: Divide the dough and roll it out extremely thin (1/8 inch or thinner) on parchment paper.

4. Shape & Dock: Cut into squares or rectangles with a knife or pizza cutter, and poke holes with a fork to prevent bubbling.

5. Season: Brush with oil or water and sprinkle with toppings like sea salt or sesame seeds.

6. Bake: Bake at 400°F–450°F for 10–15 minutes until golden brown.

7. Cool: Let them cool completely on a wire rack to ensure maximum crispness.

Below is a mini-itinerary with a few of my favorites suggestions for celebrating St. Patrick’s Day holiday in Ireland… but first some history!

Who Was St. Patrick?

St Patrick lived from 387 to 461 AD. born in Roman Britain into a christian family, some think in Wales or close to the Scottish border. He was kidnapped around the age of 16 by Irish raiders and taken to Ireland to work as a shepherd, finding solace in Christian prayer. Ireland at that time was a land of many tribes and chieftains, well functioning with a progressive and communal legal system known as the Brehnon Laws and their ancient religion was based in the stories of the Tuatha Dé Danann.

Patrick escaped his Irish captures and returned home to Britain to become a priest, later finding a calling in missionary and returned to Ireland with a goal of converting the Irish to christianity.

Historians say Patrick arrived to The Hill of Slane on an ancient Irish feast night of the year when the Irish High King Laoghaire declared no other fires lit except the one on the ancient Hill of Tara where the feast was held. Tara was a sacred spot that historically had been a place of "great prospect," known as Teamhair in Irish. This high location allowed for extensive visibility across the ancient province of Midhe (14 counties can be seen from here on a clear day) So when Patrick lit a fire on the Hill of Slane with the intent of grabbing the High King’s attention… it worked. Legend tells of the King sending his right-hand-man Eric to investigate, where he found Patrick, they all had a good talk and the King allowed Patrick to continue his mission work across the land.

Patrick used the native plant, a three-leafed shamrock to explain the Christian concept of the Holy Trinity (Father, Son, Holy Spirit) to the locals. He traveled throughout Ireland, baptizing people, establishing churches, and ordaining clergy, converting many from the ancient ways. Eventually, to the demise of the old ways, converting the entire land. He died on March 17th, 461AD. in 1631, now the Catholic Church’s feast day honoring the Patron Saint of Ireland. It wasn’t until the late 1800’s and the Irish immigrants in America missing home, who transformed this once quiet day of reflection into the day of celebration and revelry we’ve all come to enjoy.

2 Itineraries For St. Patrick’s Day In Ireland

• Dublin (airport arrival and day trip)

• Slane (3 to 4 nights)

OR

• Shannon (airport arrival)

• Dingle (3 to 4 nights)

Flights: There are some great deals right now on airfare! I personally love flying AerLingus (the Irish airline) always spectacular hospitality and great planes to fly on. As of today (1/23/26) a round trip flight from New York to Dublin March 10 to March 20 is $613 ! (that’s with your bags & seats too!!) Days closer to the holiday do increase but still not shockingly. Most major carriers also fly into Shannon Airport on the western side of Ireland.

Rent a car: I have had great success across Europe renting from Sixt car rental. Selection is always great, they are always easy to work with if there is an issue, and i’ve only ever had great staff experiences at the desk and with their customer service call line. Beware that in Ireland car rentals legally require Third-Party Liability insurance, typically included in the quote, which covers damage to others. Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) is also standard, covering the car itself but leaving a high excess (€2,500+). CDW is mandatory in Ireland, and many credit cards do not cover it there. So be prepared for a very high deposit held if you choose to rely upon your credit card or travel insurance coverage.

DUBLIN ARRIVAL TIPS:

Dublin has a massive & wonderful 4 day St Patrick’s Festival, but it’s also VERY crowded. I prefer a more ‘local’ experience that you’ll find in Slane or in Dingle.

Day Trip Into Dublin: If the big city is not for you but you want at least a little bit of Dublin-experience, then I recommend: Arrive into Dublin airport, put your bags in the airport baggage storage, and then hop the Airport Shuttle bus into Dublin, dropping at Trinity College stop, for a day visit. Don’t drive into Dublin, the parking is a nightmare! And Taxis are a breeze and reasonably priced from Dublin Airport to the city center, just follow the signs through the airport to the taxi stand outside. At the end of the day, return back to the airport to pick up your bags and your rental car and head out for your first night’s stay.

Must visits: The National Museum of Ireland - (free) where all the Celtic treasures are kept and 3 very important exhibits you must see. It’s not a very big museum but the history you find there is astonishing and it gives you a fabulous overview of the extensive and interesting history on this small island. I tell clients there are 3 MUST SEE exhibits in The National Museum…

• 1.) The Gold Hordes, in the main exhibition hall area and an unbelievable amount of treasures still being dug up as well as the extraordinary skill and technique of goldsmithing and metal work that was being used here thousands of years ago.

• 2.) The Faddan More Psalter Book: a very rare, 1,200-year-old book of Psalms, found in a peat bog in 2006, preserved in a waterlogged, wallet-shaped leather cover with papyrus lining, a significant discovery demonstrating early Irish monastic writings with Mediterranean links.

• 3.) The Bog Bodies: remarkably preserved ancient cadavers, some dating back 2000 years old, recovered from peatland. Tattoos still visible, as well as hair and clothing still preserved thanks to the scientific magic of being buried in a peat bog. There have been over 130 ancient bodies recovered from bogs across Ireland and this exhibit shares great insight and theory on ritual practices and possible reasons on the ancient persons demise.

Dublin Walking Tour: There are so many amazing local guides in Dublin but if you are a foodie and enjoy a little history, I recommend Jim Dempsey. He’s a great character with so much passion for his city and his culture. He will show you the great bits of Dublin you won’t forget and where to eat and drink along the way!

Dublin Pubs: If you have to visit Temple Bar (as it’s overly touristy and pricey) BUT the best bar to snag a day drink in the Temple Bar neighborhood is The Palace Bar, a beautiful piece of Dublin pub history, a step back to Victorian times and worth the price of that Red Breast Irish Whiskey you’ll be wanting to sip there. My list of favorite Dublin Pubs: Grogans, The Long Hall, O’Donoghues Bar, Kehoes Pub,The Capstan Bar. AND if you want a proper pub tour check out Experience Irish Whiskey Tours ! He does an outstanding walking tour of Irish Whiskey and classic Dublin pubs.

Where to be on St. Patrick’s Day: Slane or Dingle?

SLANE: I recommend you avoid Dublin with the 1000’s of other tourists celebrating and seek out an authentic ‘local’ parade like in Slane, County Meath. The village of Slane located idyllically above the River Boyne, with an 18th century castle, and greystoned lined Main Street, all in the shadow of that same ancient hilltop, The Hill of Slane where St. Patrick lit his first fire brining christianity to Ireland. For 30 years the village of Slane has hosted a lovely hometown parade with folks in costume, local football clubs & scouts, tractors & vintage cars, and local businesses featuring floats. Earlier in the day, at the village crossroads you’ll find a wagon filled with local performers entertaining prior to the parades start and then after the parade everyone heads to The Village Inn or Boyles Pub for pints and live music.

The 2026 Slane Village St. Patrick’s Day parade is expected to take place on March 17th, typically starting around 3:30 PM from St. Patrick’s National School on Collon Road. The procession moves down through the village, often ending near the Slane Castle gates, featuring local bands, colorful floats, and community groups.

SITES TO SEE NEAR SLANE: Slane is also a fabulous location to base out of for a few days of exploration in the region known as The Ancient East. From the ancient neolithic site of Newgrange/Bru na Boinne to the early monastic sites of Mellifont to the ancient high king seat site of the Hill of Tara. You will immediately realize why this part of the country has been of such great importance to the history of Ireland. Mythical Ireland Tours led by local scholar Anthony Murphy is the best way to see many of the ancient sites in this region in one day! Discover Boyne Valley is also a great regional organization where you’ll find a vast listing of sites and events happening near Slane in County Meath.

Where to Stay in Slane: Connyham Arms Hotel

DINGLE: There is no short cut road to beautiful Dingle, but it’s worth the journey to arrive into this small harbor town where some of the country’s best preserved traditions, old pubs, scenic views and locally sourced food can be found. Irish is still spoken fluently in most households around Dingle and St. Patrick’s Day is one of the their most special days.

Dingle celebrations start early on the day, 6:00am the local fife and drum band march through the streets with most the town up early to greet the day long celebration of the country’s patron Saint. A tradition dating back to the Land Wars of 1880 due to the law that no marching was to take place between sunrise and sunset, so locals decided to a pre-dawn parade to honor their Patron Saint on his special day and it continues to this day with the procession ending at the church for an early Mass service. In these recent times, now a second parade is also scheduled for 12:30 PM and then the rest of the day is spent wandering from pub to pub with live traditional music and dance on nearly everywhere.

BUT if you’re REALLY wanting to squeeze in as many parades as possible, you could start out even earlier and attend the Midnight Parade in Ballydavid, just over the mountain road from Dingle. A tiny seaside area hosting the country’s first St Patrick’s Day Parade of the ‘day’ each year, starting at 12:01am on March 17th. Made up of enthusiastic locals parading with torches & tin whistles. Best directions there, is to google map Tigh TP’s Pub in Ballydavid on the Dingle peninsula.

Dingle and its gorgeous peninsula location is home to a vibrant local community still hanging on to their traditions and culture. Music and dance can be found almost every night in one of the many pubs across the town. The food scene is fabulous featuring fresh fish, locally sourced products from meat to grain and locally brewed beers & spirits. Some of my favorites Doyles Seafood, The Little Cheese Shop, The Fish Box Dingle, Dick Mack’s Pub Brewery, The town is full of shops featuring local artist of world renowned craftsman ship, especially check out Dingle Crystal! The area also has one of the most breathtaking roads to explore in the whole of Ireland. Spend a day before or after driving the scenic Slea Head drive taking in the endless scenic vantage points and pull offs, visit ancient sites like the ancient drystone constructed Bee Hive huts and the remarkably preserved 7th century Gallarus Oratory. Stop at The Blasket Center museum to learn about how hard life was in this beautiful but ruthless landscape as well as inspiring to the many writings and musicians that would have resided here. You’ll find small villages and tiny settlements, gorgeous beaches and many hiking opportunities. Stop into the Ventry Shop & Post office for delicious locally sourced picnic supplies or into Tigh TP Bar for a homespun pub lunch . And experience just how gorgeous Dingle is from the water with a fabulous boat tour with the fine folks at Dingle Sea Safari.

Where to sleep in Dingle: Benners Hotel, old world charm and phenomenal hospitality!

AND For MORE Ireland Itinerary Tips…

If you are looking for a detailed itinerary for multiple days in Ireland I can provide you with a personalized itinerary loaded with details including driving maps, accommodations, local guides, drivers, and travel tips. DM me or email me at rucksackfoodie@ gmail.com

**suggestions of services and experiences are of a personal nature and I have not been compensated (I wish! …lol)

Unlinked Pictures: Newgrange, Mellifont, Hill of Tara

Read more

The Romans had Saturnalia & Compitalia , the Picts had The Clavie, the Norse had Yuletide , the French had Feast of Fools , the early Britons had what the Anglos later named and christianized Twelfth Night, the Church evolved bits of all of it into Feast of the Epiphany. on January 6th, and still in modern times, world wide many different cultures start their carnival season on this day.

These end of the winter celebrations were a way for communities to come together worship in their own ways on long dark nights. Feasting and drinking, sometimes swapping roles from servant to master, some times crowning a false king for the night but most always with selecting a “sacrifice” to ensure a fruitful and blessed year to come. Pre-christians would have sacrificed a farm animal or even their neighbor masquerading as the King-for-a-day. With the establishment of Christianity came a drastic transformation of these seasonal celebrations. The christian calendar marks January 6th as Epiphany, world wide and has for centuries. In order for the medieval church to get villagers on board with this christianity “thing”, often times they would incorporate elements of the old local pagan traditions into the new christian holidays. Such as modern day Carnival.

Epiphany, January 6, is the official end of the Christmas season, but it also kicks off Carnival season in New Orleans, and around the world. Although some people use Carnival and Mardi Gras interchangeably, they are actually different things. Carnival is a time to eat, drink and be merry before the rigorous fasting and sacrifice during Lent. It is filled with parades, balls and other celebrations leading up to Mardi Gras, which is French for “Fat Tuesday.” Mardi Gras is always the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Carnival officially ends at midnight on Fat Tuesday and Lent begins. (History & Tradition, Mardigrasneworleans.com)

Modern Carnival traditions reflect many of those old pre-christian winter celebrations: gathering at mid winter, hiding your true self behind masks and costumes, unbridled feasting and drinking, mischievous behavior, and all culminating with a sacrifice... Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent, eventually arriving at Easter and spring.

CELEBRATING WITH THE KING CAKE

The delicious tradition of King Cake at Carnival time has roots to going back to even early Greek and Roman midwinter feasting traditions but is most commonly associated with the early medieval King of The Bean and Twelfth Night Cake. Historically on this night a special cake was made for the community to share. Often elaborately decorated but baked with a hidden bean or pea inside. The person finding the bean became “King of the Bean” or “Lord of Misrule,” organizing games, songs, and feasts. In earlier pre-christian times this King of the Bean would have any thing he wanted for this night from your jug of wine, to your favorite pig, to even a little revelry with your wife! But alas when the morning came that lucky slice of cake with his privilege to be Lord of Misrule for the night came with a price. Often he was scarified at dawn to ensure abundance and good health for crops and community in the spring. January 6th is also the first official day you can eat King Cake and the first official day of Carnival/Mardi Gras season in New Orleans. And many carnival celebrations around the world have their own ‘king cakes’ handed down historically; The Portuguese have Bolo-rei , the French have galette des rois, and the Spanish have roscón de reyes.

The traditional New Orleans Carnival King Cake are oval-shaped sweet bread (similar to a cinnamon roll dough) decorated with purple, green and gold sugar icing representing justice, faith and power and inside it hides a small plastic baby symbolizing the baby Jesus, with the lucky finder becoming “king for the day” and also responsible of brining the next cake to the party!

MY KING CAKE RECIPE

On January 6th, in the deep south of America (Louisiana and New Orleans way) you’ll find friends and family gathered around that first King Cake of the carnival season, hoping to grab the slice hiding the plastic baby and to be crowned King or Queen of the night, obligating them to throw the next party of this season of revelry leading up to Mardi Gras most special day, Fat Tuesday (Shrove Tuesday) and the beginning of Lent.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup lukewarm milk

• ½ cup granulated sugar

• 2 tablespoons dry yeast

• 3 ¾ cups all-purpose flour

• 1 cup melted butter

• 5 egg yolks, beaten

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 teaspoon grated fresh lemon zest

• 3 teaspoons cinnamon

• Several gratings of fresh nutmeg

• 2 cups powdered sugar

• ¼ cup condensed milk

• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

• Purple, green and gold sugar crystals

• 1 dry bean (a big fave bean is best) or plastic baby to hide in the cake after baking

• ***and there are many alternatives you can add to jazz up this cake! I sometimes add cinnamon to the dry ingredients and I love to “fill” my King Cake!! I often fill with cream cheese and berry jam or I also will fill with a sweet cream cheese filling. I make a sweet cream cheese filling with cream cheese, powdered sugar and a squeeze of fresh lemon . And then instead of braiding the bread dough as instructed below I actually roll it out into a big rectangle, spread out the filling and then roll the dough up into a big tube shape, then shape it into an oval on the baking sheet.

Cake Directions:

1. For the cake, pour the warm milk into a large bowl.

2. Whisk in the granulated sugar, yeast and a heaping tablespoon of the flour, mixing until both the sugar and the yeast have dissolved.

3. Once bubbles have developed on the surface of the milk and it begins to foam, whisk in the butter, eggs, vanilla and lemon zest.

4. Add the remaining flour, cinnamon and nutmeg, and fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients with a large rubber spatula.

5. After the dough comes together, pulling away from the sides of the bowl, shape it into a large ball.

6. Knead the dough on a floured surface until it is smooth and elastic, about 15 minutes.

7. Put the dough back into the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a draft-free place to let it proof, or rise, for 1 1/2 hours or until the dough has doubled in volume.

8. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

9. Once the dough has risen, punch it down and divide the dough into three equal pieces. Roll each piece of dough between your palms into a long strip, making three ropes of equal length. Braid the ropes around one another and form the braided loaf into a circle, pinching ends together to seal.

10. Gently lay the dough on a nonstick cookie sheet and let it rise until it doubles in size, about 30 minutes.

11. Once it’s doubled in size, place the cookie sheet in the oven and bake until the braid is golden-brown, about 30 minutes.

12. Remove the cake from the oven, place on a wire rack, and allow to cool for 30 minutes.

Icing Directions:

1. While the cake is cooling, whisk together the powdered sugar, condensed milk and lemon juice in a bowl until the icing is smooth and spreadable. If the icing is too thick, add a bit more condensed milk; if it’s too loose, add a little more powdered sugar.

2. Once the cake has cooled, uck the bean or plastic baby into the underside of the cake and, using a spatula, slide the cake onto a platter.

3. Ice the top of the cake and sprinkle with purple, green and gold sugar crystals while the icing is still wet.

** January 6th Epiphany marks a day of celebration when the wise men arrived to the manager where Jesus was. To only then a few weeks later mark their form of 'sacrifice' with Lent, the next christian calendar event a few weeks later when they give up something they enjoy for the weeks leading up to Easter.

Read more

Around the world for hundreds of thousands of years humans have tracked the movement of the sun, the cycles of the moon and the rotation of calendar-like star constellations like The Pleiades; and astonishingly inspiring similar stories despite spanning millennia, continents and vast cultural differences.

There are archeological sites that have been proven to mirror The Pleiades star cluster and supported evidence to these cultural myths and oral traditions, stretching across the globe and before any sort of common written word. The cluster has been depicted on the ancient disk of Nebra, the oldest written representation of the night sky that has come down to us, dating back at least to 1600 BC, highlighting the importance of the seven Pleiades to cultures once writing did become a common form of historical documentation.

• Formoso, Brazil: is a 5000+ yr old ancient stilt village with a unique layout and pottery suggesting it served as a ritual center for astronomical knowledge, possibly mirroring the Pleiades. This would have been a dry time of the year in the southern hemisphere , and historians believe a time to repair the village and come together as a community. It was also the time of year they would hold rites of passage ceremonies. Many possibly traveling great distances to this site for business or to visit loved ones. The star cluster showing it’s self prominently in the sky calendar was thought to be interpreted as a beehive, a honeycomb, a valuable trade good, and even a bundle of fire sticks for clearing the fields. (image: science direct .com)

• Hill of Tara & Dowth, Ireland: A 3000+ yr old ancient site of great cosmological significance that shows celestial alignments with the Pleiades (but strongly linked to Bealtaine time, spring of year and the myth of the seven cows)(image: K51 at Dowth. Also known as the Stone of the Seven Suns Clare T)

• Stone Circles across Uk (especially Arbor Low, UK):Many Neolithic stone circles across Europe, like Arbor Low, were built to be cosmologically aligned to the sky and to solstices and equinoxes, often correlating with the rising or setting of key stars or constellations, including the Pleiades. (image: stone-circles. org .uk)

• Ancient Greek & Roman Sites: many sites across these two ancient empires show connections to celestial events, with specific locations like the Hayling Island Roman site having calendrical significance to The Pleiades, as well as some historians proving the seven hills of Rome reflect the seven Pleiades in the sky. (image: Felice Vinci)

Most commonly the tradition of star gazing at the The Seven Sisters aka The Pleiades star cluster took place at the time of the "new year", during winter. Looking for the seven sisters/stars escaping Orion (the constellation with the “belt”) The stories/myths retold was to signify the start of escaping winter and marking the turn in the seasons when humans could begin again to think of the bountiful seasons ahead and new hope of abundance (both in the field with crops and with one another for future additions to the clan)

HOW TO FIND THE PLEIADES ON NEW YEARS NIGHT:

The Pleiades , are known a 7-star cluster but often we can barely spot 6 of them (and actually it’s a cluster 410 million light years away made up of 1000s of stars) For our earthbound eyes they can be seen within the constellation of Taurus, which are most prominent in the night sky at this time of year, near the moon. And on bright moon nights like this year you will need to block the moon light with your hand.

You can find The Pleiades by identifying the constellation of Orion the Hunter with its distinct ‘belt’ of three stars. Follow the line formed by the belt upwards until you come across a bright reddish star called Aldebaran. Aldebaran is the eye of the bull in Taurus, and its name comes from the Arabic word for ‘follower’ - as this star typically follows the Pleiades across the sky. From Aldebaran, continue in the same direction until you see a compact group of blue stars, and you’ve found the Pleiades cluster.

The ancient practice of cosmology on a cold clear night skies would serve as a calendar to mark moments , predict future work schedules , inspiring stories and provide comforting answers to the unexplainable.

And remarkably over tens of thousands of years somehow man saw these stars and created similar myths across the globe.

These seven stars have been called The Seven Sisters in many cultures, though most often only 6 are visible leading to myth stories of The lost sister of Pleiades. According to Astronomical math , 100,000 years ago the cluster would have been more spread apart and possibly closer to earth with all seven stars very easily seen in the night sky

Stories about them are found in ancient European, African, Asian, Indonesian, Native American and Aboriginal Australian cultures. Many cultures regard the cluster as having seven stars, but acknowledge only six are normally visible, and then have a story to explain why the seventh is invisible.

Greek myth:

In Greek myth the Pleiades were said to be daughters of the titan Atlas and the sea nymph Pleione. Each of the seven prominent stars has its own name: Alcyone, Asterope, Celaeno, Electra, Maia, Merope, and Taygete. Two further bright stars in the cluster are named after Atlas and Pleione. The myth says that after Atlas was cursed by Zeus to hold up the heavens forever, the sisters began to be pursued by Orion the Hunter. In order to protect them from Orion, Zeus turned them into doves, and then stars.

North America:

The Cherokee culture of North America believe their souls originate from this cluster and that their spiritual essence returns there after death. Also in many versions of the Cherokee creation stories, seven boys danced so fervently that they ascended into the sky, becoming the Pleiades

Australia:

In many Australian Aboriginal cultures, the Pleiades are a group of young girls, often associated with sacred women’s ceremonies and stories. The Pleiades are also important as an element of Aboriginal calendars and astronomy and for several groups their first rising at dawn marks the start of winter.

Africa:

Africa may be the origin of this ancient myth going back possibly 1000s of years even before the Greeks and Bronze Age. In African, the Pleiades (called Isilimela in Xhosa, “digging stars,” or Tagemmunt by Berbers, “the group”) aren’t just representing sisters, but were a celestial calendar marker for a crucial season of agricultural work and cultural rites of passage in Xhosa tradition. Signaling planting time, new life, and also manhood initiation & fertility opportunities. The seven stars were often seen as celestial girls being chased by a hunter (the Orion constellation) The Khoikhoi tribe called them “rain stars,” while the Tswana people saw them as dogs chasing pigs, reflecting their practical use in farming and timekeeping across diverse cultures.

Japan:

The Pleiades are called Subaru in Japan, translating “to unite” or “gather together.” Subaru and the sign of the stars in the sky during this time of year gave a focus of harmony, mutual support, and resilience throughout the communities. With a base belief that because of unity and family, individual lights shine brightest when connected to others. A community synergy of support and a shared path, each individual but connected to better light the way through.

In new age spiritualism:

A Pleiadian Starseed is a concept in New Age spirituality describing a soul believed to originate from the Pleiades star system (the “Seven Sisters”) who incarnates on Earth with a mission to help humanity spiritually evolve, often feeling a deep longing for home and possessing heightened empathy, intuition, and a desire to heal and uplift others, bringing love and wisdom from their advanced, multidimensional civilization… often feeling like they are not of earth

........................................................

So tonight, on the first night of the New Year, go look for The Pleiades - The Seven Sisters of the ancient sky calendar and reflect on all those who looked at the same inspiring wonderful sky over thousands of years and look for your own direction for the new year ahead.

My visit was not only an interesting lesson in the political and spiritual development of Eastern Europe but it was also a chance to dive deep into a still strong culinary tradition. Cabbage is the star (for sure this time of the year -autumn) and the Hungarian influence is still strong here as paprika is featured heavily in many traditional dishes. Sheep’s cheese and dumplings are prevalent on menus but not as much as I saw in the more central, hilly region of Slovakia. The biggest impression was the amount of from-scratch cooking happening in these kitchen. Almost every place and the entire menu options were made in house!

I wandered a lot over my 4 days in Kosšice and most experiences were left to my memories and not my camera role, but I did capture quite a few interestkng, delicious & must-explores for you to add to your list and make it a point to go and explore Košice!

WHAT TO DO & SEE…

📍St. Elizabeth Cathedral: Hlavné námestie 3, 040 01 Staré Mesto, Košice Slovakia… visit for free or instead I recommend pay 8€ and get the informative handheld audio tour to explore with. The most important Gothic church of the Carpathian Basin and still largest in Slovakia was built here in Košice in honour of St. Elizabeth. To this day it is still one of the most underrated Cathedrals in the world that tourists neglect to visit! Gorgeously adorned and originally the design was inspired by Saints-Chapelle in Paris. But its most remarkable feature is its massive, unique winged altar with 48 story panels, the only one of its kind in the world that is still completely original and in its original location. A breathtaking piece of religious art and just one of many unique altars that can be found here, as well as 10 important relics, a crypt with important revolutionaries intermed below to visit. Also very unique is a special interior spiral pilgrims staircase, the last remaining architectural wonder of it’s kind in the world; leading to a relic balcony that would have been visited by pilgrims walking the gothic pilgrimage of St Elizabeth centuries before.

📍St Michael’s Chapel & The Bell Tower… flanking St Elizabeth Cathedral on historic square… unfortunately both were closed during my visit but both are beautiful medieval structures containing much history to explore. The chapel walls have old grave covers and tomb effigies encased in its walls, from some of the hundreds of graves that once surrounded the cathedral over 400 years ago. More information from the ticket office at Cathedral

📍Flower Market: Dominikánske námestie, 040 01 Staré Mesto, Košice Slovakia … located in the square of the Dominican Church, vendors of all shapes and sizes, from large produce selection, to honey to grandmas with homemade slivovica (plum brandy) show up here daily from 7am till noon (some stay longer- some days are busier than others)

📍Dominikánsky kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Marie (Dominican Church) - the oldest church and oldest building surviving in Košice, 1209. Although it sat as a ruin for over a century after the great fire of 1556 it was restored and later baroque’d and now its humble exterior hiding its gorgeous interior! Miracles tell of its well having healing properties during the Black Plague of 1709.

📍East Slovak Museum: Námestie Maratónu mieru 2, 040 01 Košice, Slovakia The city’s (and regional) history as a settlement is recorded to the 13th century but there is oral history of settlement much before then leading up to the great significance this spot had been centuries before due to its location to the Silk Road (Asian trade routes started in 2nd BC).By the time some church based historian put his pen to paper about Košice the gold, silver and copper mining were already very productive in this region. AND fortunately much of that original wealth has been rediscovered and put on display in this massive collection of coins spanning over 1000years. There is so much history to learn from in this one exhibit found on the vault level. The upper floors of this museum contain a collection of rooms containing Gothic elements as well as Baroque period elements. The top floor is a rotating exhibit space and out back is a beautifully preserved 18th century wooden church relocated here in 1927.

📍Wander the streets … some of the best visual memories of this visit were found by my just wandering aimlessly. I recommend using the town layout from the medieval map above to explore with. (This is a great suggestion for most European cities! ) Go inside off the churches. Look for those tiny shops that still offer goods and services like it was 1960. Pop in for a coffee or a beer at every little interesting stoop. With a smile say good morning, thank you and good bye in local dialect - conversations will start and before long youve made a new friend and have a local leading you to their favorite spot of interest! (Of course use common sense and keep safe!)

WHERE TO SLEEP…

📍Vila Regis … basic but nice rooms, clean & friendly staff, family owned, wonderful restaurant and separate coffee shop, great location and equally great price

WHERE TO EAT…

📍Vila Regis … outstanding local dishes made from scratch. Very reasonably priced, on 2nd floor above their coffee shop. Popular with locals so reservations recommended. (One block from historic center)

📍Stromestská … a perfect lunch spot to nourish your weary touring feet and enjoy traditional home cooked dishes mixed in with a few pub-grub choices. Serving beers and goulash for at least 150 years from the looks of the pictures on the walls. Interior has changed much since then and it’s filled with locals catching up with friends or on lunch break from work. (On Historic center)

WHERE TO DRINK…

📍Pivovar Golem: 15, Dominikánske námestie 592, 040 01 Staré Mesto, Košice Slovakia… a brewery since 2001, it’s been a beer pub & restaurant for MUCH longer. The beer was fantastic and definitely order the cheese spread stuff (I’m kicking myself now not writing down the name of this decadent magical spread!) and the sausage is HEAVY paprika and delicious with the beers here!!

📍Pivovar Hostinec: Hlavná 91/65, 040 01 Košice, Slovakia … records show that this is the oldest secular building in Kosice built in the 1400s and also the oldest continuous used building as a place of hospitality. Since the 1500s the people of Košice have been meeting here over pints and sausages. The current brewery is not only making great traditional beers but also getting creative with ales and sours. Great place to enjoy a great beer in a very historic space!

Be Adventurous! …. In a land where beer is tradition and the Slivovitz is life blood, you will discover endless places of charm with great drinks and amazing prices especially here in Košice. When I travel solo I tend to relax in the afternoon or early evening with a beer and a book rather than later in the evening, it’s safer for a solo person and I tend to end up chatting with a local. Beers can be ordered in a small or large size and a small typically ran 1.20€ !

Are you looking for personal travel tips or help with planning that trip? Contact me to help create your personal itinerary or for personal guides services!

Rucksack Foodie

Eat Good, Live Well, Enjoy Life!

Austria is one of the most relaxed countries I have visited but just under its soothful surface is a county bursting at the seams full of history, art and creativity. A country that now fits inside West Virginia but once was the second-largest country in Europe by area, after Russia. An empire of control, influence & shared monarchy that stretched over a vast territory in central Europe, encompassing modern-day Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, and parts of Italy, Poland, Ukraine, Romania, and Croatia (and debatably parts of Spain, France & Netherlands). A legacy solidified by the long reigning Habsburg dynasty, 700 years of one families wealth and influence (and questionable mismanagement) over every aspect of a country and a culture. So there is ALOT to see and do in Austria!!

I’ve only spent a little over 2 weeks in Austria visiting Salzburg, Vienna, Hallstatt and Bad Ischl, and my visit barely scratched the surface of this immensely interesting and beautiful country. But the tips and recommendations I’ve provided below you’ll find to be inspiring, budget friendly and time savers!

There is so much to discover in Austria. Layers of history from Bronze & Iron Age Celts, to Roman outposts, to the enormity of the empires to reign from then on – Bavarii , Frankish and then the Holy Roman Empire led by the iconic Habsburgs. The gorgeous architecture from Vienna’s Art Nouveau & Imperial, Salzburg’s Romanesque & Gothic, to the traditional European Spruce Bauernhofs (farmhouses) in the Alpine Valleys. And although the Habsburgs pretty much “Baroque’d” everything everywhere, if you look closely you’ll still discover earlier architectural treasures & intrigues.

Plan for at least 3-4 nights wherever you choose to stop in Austria. This gives you time to settle, relax, investigate and explore.

TIPS FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP:

USE THE TRAIN: The train & bus system across Austria is actually great and with the use of GoogleMaps you can even find full route options (listing trains & buses and times) to more out of reach destinations . 

I downloaded the Austrian Train ÖBB App on my phone and it has been a flawless experience! It opens in English and I’m able to search trains and then my tickets are conveniently stored on my phone in the app.

GET FAMILIAR – DON’T GET OVERWHELMED:  first thing I do when I get to a new city, I almost ALWAYS take a spin on the tram loop or a bus loop route. This helps me get familiar with the city, and from my window seat I check out neighborhoods while saving steps! I keep my Google map view with the “Transit” view selected which shows train routes in color, trams and bus stops too. It is almost always exact with pubic transport options, descriptions and times . 

TOUR PASS: almost all major cities have a TOUR PASS or CITY PASS that will offer discounted and sometimes free entry to sites of interest, discounts on ticketed events and even options that include public transportation. So do a little research ahead of time to see if the offerings fit with what you were hoping to visit.

ACCOMODATION LOCATION: Don’t think you HAVE TO STAY in the old historic center! 

IN SALZBURG… this city is much more compact and easily walkable than google map implies SO staying across the river EVEN A FEW BLOCKS FROM RIVER, can find you fabulous options and cheaper prices. 

IN VIENNA…  you can find a lovely and historic stay on the outside of the tram loop (which historically would have been where the ancient city wall was) and I recommend stay closer to the Naschtmarkt area, GREAT hotels and dining options and all the major transit lines are within a block or two walk! 

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION: DEFINITELY use public transportation!

IN SALZBURG… there is partnership with the city and the hotels will provide 

you with a FREE Mobile Pass for all forms of public transportation across the entire Salzburg region!! Buses, trams and even the trains (for stops within the Salzburg region) 

IN VIENNA… You can easily buy a cheap multi day transit pass to use on the tram , the U (underground train) and the buses. Just remember you need to validate it when getting on and off (little easy to find places on the trams or on the platforms to stick your ticket in for validation) 

CITY CENTER DRIVING RESTRICTIONS: be aware that only certain taxis and drivers can drive into the historic city centers. So if you book a hotel in the historic center, inquire with them about the best way to get to their door (so you’re not dragging your bags for a mile unnecessarily!)

CHURCHES ARE FREE (& full of beautiful art & interesting history!): sometimes it’s a bit confusing at the church door, where signage is posted offering concerts or special access to tombs or towers for a ticket price and this can be a bit misleading . Know that all churches are FREE to enter in Austria and enjoy the beautiful architecture, art and relics or sit quietly and reflect BUT ALSO sometimes there are special bits more inside to explore and you can purchase a ticket for (historic crypts, scenic tower overlooks, musical concerts, to name a few) 

Also please be respectful; be quiet while enjoying and comply if a church has a sign the says “NO PHOTOS”. 

FREE TOURS? : Many hotels offer a “free” walking tour of the city as part of their amenities, check with your hotel front desk or read the in room information. All guides in Austria have to be trained and licensed so you are almost guaranteed as excellent experience! I stayed at a really great female hostel in Vienna and took their FREE 3 hour walking tour of the city with their guide Charles and it was AMAZING and answered a lot of questions for me after giving me many of his own personal recommendations, priceless “local” tips I relish in!! Of course you should always TIP the guide after! I tipped him 10€ as part of a 25 person group tour.

FOOD!

BREAKFAST: hotel breakfast seems a bit pricey for my liking but that’s ok because traditional Austrian breakfast appears to be just a cup of coffee and a pastry, so save the money and find a cafe before you start your day’s exploration. 

SAUSAGE STANDS: YES – eat from a sausage stand, they are fabulous, many delicious options and  it is very common. 

CAFE PASTRIES &  CANAPÉS: the sweets selection will be overwhelming in a positive way, so skip lunch and keep room for cakes and pastries!! AND late afternoon into happy hour find a cafe that offers the traditional little canapés/mini open faced sandwiches, grab a couple and a glass of wine and enjoy the passerby’s 

CAFES & COFFEE CULTURE: across Austria there is a long tradition of cafes and the coffee culture has a few IYKYKs that you need to know!

• walk in and just quietly have a seat (unless there is a sign upon entering that says “wait to be seated”) 

• Austrian cafes are meant as a refuge to relax and stay as long as you like, no one is going to rush you. 

• Patience is a virtue… No need to try and get the waiters attention, he sees you and will get to you when he can. Service is relaxed and efficient so just enjoy the quiet moment sitting.

• Don’t just order “a coffee” be specific! Black coffee = Americano (and they will ask you if you want milk) Austrians love a Melange, which is close to a Cappuccino but I like better(order a Melange and you will sound like you know what you’re doing …lol) and here is a handy photo I took of a cafe’s coffee offerings !

• Every coffee comes with a small glass of still water and the water you get free refills.

• All cafes will have daily papers hanging on a rod for you to enjoy, often in multiple languages. Most cafes also have cards or chess and sometimes even a small billiards table in a separate room. 

• Not all cafes have WiFi- many don’t 

• Make eye contact with the waiter to get your check (eventually) 

• I think Austrian coffee surpasses most coffee I’ve had in Europe, excellent cup. The barista school here is one of the best in the world so it goes without saying the coffee is going to be consistently wonderful across the country! 

BEER: Austrians must be part of the “perfect beer” origin story – I will need to study this topic more… but trust me when I say the beer in Austria is magnificent! Expect lagers and pilsners mostly , they are cold crisp and refreshing and go down very smooth. They will ask you what size (basically large or small) and they expect you to know a bit about beer. For my first visit to the country as an amateur beer connoisseur, I always ended up ordering a small and politely asking the server if there is a local beer they recommend or to surprise me . Maybe not always the best method but for me on this trip it was a winner every time!!

EXPERIENCE THE CULTURE

Austria is the capital of classical music. It’s astonishing the amount of amazing performances you can find here! Some of them have hefty price tags or go quickly BUT there are ways to snag BARGIN tickets if you just do a little research and I often ask my hotel front desk if they have any “insider tips” on last minute tickets for performances or free performances.

VIENNA OPERA: seeing an opera is an amazing experience and although tickets range from 45€ to 240€ (and honestly sell out nightly!) they also have “Standing Room” tickets that are on 15€ . You get a designated spot with a rail (to lean on) and there is a little screw at each seat and standing position that displays the words being sung (you select your language) .

SALZBURG CATHEDRAL: the “Music at Noon”concert at Salzburg Cathedral is a free church concert that happens around 12:05 p.m. daily and features up to seven organs. You can also visit the morning (6:45am) and evening church service to hear the singing of nuns from the Nonnberg Abbey convent choir, not a formal concert but is a mass time.  

CHRISTMAS MARKET TIME!

There is no more special time to visit Austria than at Christmas time! The Austrians offer an amazing amount of markets to choose from (Vienna has at least 16! Though some are tucked away in hidden courtyards)

I’ll share my two of my GoogleMap Lists for Christmas markets, but I recommend researching the individual towns you might visit and see exactly when their Market dates are as some are one weekend or weekends only or only around St Nicolas Eve or Day .

LOOKING FOR PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS?

If you are wanting to know my favorite places to eat, drink and shop in the Austrian Cities & Villages I visited, go subscribe to my Rucksack Foodie Substack Page for a big list of my favorites you’ll want to put on your own travel list for Austria! (To be live on 11/25/25)

But here’s a few to start with…

And if you’re looking for some help planning a trip to Austria I can also provide you a personalized Travel List to use on your own adventure to Austria. Email me at rucksackfoodie @ gmail.com or DM on the socials!

FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM & FACEBOOK FOR ALL MY TRAVELS AND DELICIOUS INSPIRATIONS!

The post Austria Travel Tips appeared first on Rucksack Foodie.

A natural cave originally with evidence of Iron Age usage, in the 1600’s it was carved further into the hillside to make community cold storage space, with the debris stones  used in construction of its building facade. This space was geological perfection for beer making,  limestone sediment crushed with mineral rich salt deposits, a constant 100% humidity making for the most ideal natural yeast creation, a brewers dream!

The Austrians seem to have always lived in realistic harmony with Mother Nature, building beautiful little villages amongst rugged & rough alpine peaks and especially when building next to rivers.  This historic cellar was designed with a slanted floor throughout and with a French drain system underneath to allow for constant drainage… the river would always rise here so true subterranean basements were not made and hill cellars like this one hidden away for brewing and storage were common, though almost none remain original as this one does from 1675. 

Although at first glance this space looks roughly hewn out by ancient hands & ancient methods, every decision in its design and purpose was intentional and well thought out.

These smart Austrian cellar carvers also installed air vent shafts (for safety), but that would alter the constant temperature, in the summer maybe too warm, so they installed a drainage “stairwells” from their uphill neighbors ice cellar to capture the melting ice water which would further cool the marble slabs. But not just ANY marble slabs, this red marble floor stones were salvaged in the 1700s from a church renovation, this marble known to be iron rich also ingenious because iron naturally captures cool temperatures. 

Originally a natural cold storage space for a small village, as the village grew it evolved into brewing space and then by the Hasburgs arrival, into a posh party hangout. 

Bad Ischl was the Alp’s first European capital of culture in the 1800’s thanks to Empress Sisi summering here, also where she met her future husband Franz Joseph I. Bad Ischl was a place to be “seen” and party at social houses like Cafe Casino (conveniently located above the brewery cellar!)

Then a day café on the ground floor and at night a lavish restaurant & dance café on the first floor. Once a gathering spot for Bad Ischl’s upper crust, artists, librettists, and publishers.

The famous Viennese composer Franz Lehar who had a villa near by, frequently visited the restaurant and today his music is still played in the cellar to promote better growth in the mushroom beds.  

Times changed and the Casio’s heyday came to the end. In 1970 Josef  Schmalnauer a travelling musician, was enamored by the historic property and purchased it opening a cafe (Casino Keller) & music house on the ground floor, his goulash soup made according to a secret Hungarian recipe was legendary, and the fun often spilling over into all night party sessions in the old cellars to avoid late night visits from the police.  

He also provided the legendary Austrian artist Carlo Battisti with studio space in the old upper restaurant hall, and his paintings can still be found there. 

The son Bernhard Schmalnauer now passionately preserves the building’s history with tours and continues the brewing legacy creating some delicious traditional biers. The home to Austria’s smallest brewing (narrowly classified a home brewer) he is STILL utilizing this old cellar to its fullest potential… brewing beer but also growing king oyster mushrooms. Both needing very controlled environments for perfection (and his beer was perfection!) Post-tour you have a chance to sit in the old pub and drink some of his brews.

So next time you are in Austria, make a weekend trip to Bad Ischl. An easy, comfortable bus rider from Salzburg or east train from Vienna. Here you will find a gorgeous small river town surrounded by Alpine peaks, rich in history, home to fabulous & affordable spa resorts like Eurothermen Resort and a short train ride to Hallstatt (possibly the most scenic village in Austria!

(*) The term CASINO is of Italian origin, from the root word casa meaning “house.” Originally, the term referred to a small country villa, summerhouse, or social club where people gathered. During the 19th century, casino came to encompass other public buildings where pleasurable activities took place.

Historic photos & some information from

Casino Cafe website

Bad Ischl Tourism

The post History, Beer & Hidden Cellar in the Austrian Alps appeared first on Rucksack Foodie.

A bread with mountainous origins… Vintschgerl style breads found across Austria (many versions from across Central Europe & the Alps) are a traditional round flat loaf of rye sourdough often flavored with spice seeds. With a large-pored crumband rye content of approximately 70 percent, these loaves stay fresh for several days. Therefore, were well-suited as provisions for longer journeys & hikes over the mountains.

AND… scroll to bottom (below the recipe) if you want to read about the oldest bakery in Salzburg where this loaf and other traditional al loaves have been baked for nearly 1000 years!

RECIPE TIP… if you simply roll this dough out thinner and bake till crispy brown you have something called Schüttelbrot , an even longer lasting cracker bread which is yummy for cheese nibbling!

RECIPE:

VINTSCHGERL …traditional Austrian sourdough rye loaves with spices like fennel & caraway

• 400 g sourdough starter

• 500 g rye flour

• 280 g wheat flour

• 20 g fresh yeast

• 18 g salt

• 5 g fennel

• 5 g caraway seeds

• 5 g fenugreek

• 700 g lukewarm water

Preparation:

Mix the starter dough and all the other ingredients to form a soft dough, dust with rye flour, cover and leave to rise for 30 minutes.

Form balls of dough of 100 g each, dust with rye flour and place on a baking tray lined with baking paper. 30 minutes approx to rise

Preheat the oven to 220 degrees C and bake the Vintschgerl in a dry oven for approx. 45 minutes.

Cool then store in a simple brown paper bag.

This recipe is from Salzburger Getreidemühlen – Salzburg Grain Mills (flour producer) who shared the recipe from the cookbook “Grow rye and brown bread grind bake enjoy”

By Rita Kichler – Helmut Reiner – Verlag Anton Pustet

St. Peter’s Bread…

On an early morning walk through the narrow sleeping city streets, the closer to the Dom (the Cathedral) you get you realize your nose comes alive by the sweet smells of fresh loaves. If you are wise you will follow your nose to a quiet corner beyond the Dom, under the shadow of the mountain Fortress above, through an iron gate, where you find an ancient water wheel roaring in motion under the watchful wooden eye of St Peter himself , go down the little steps and through the green door. You’ve found Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter, one of the oldest continuous bakeries in the world.

Here in an ancient basement bakers are making delicious magic 5 days a week as the Monks did over 800 years ago(possibly even longer!).

The tradition can be tasted in every bite. With water still sourced from the Almkanal stream that in 1160 was rerouted through the mountain, to the monastery, via a hand dug tunnel to power the mill that would grind the grain… as it was centuries ago it still is today. Perhaps not by monks but the proud bakers of Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter still produce bread as they did over a thousand years ago. All traditional methods from start to finish. Impressively they still use the restored water mill to grind organic grains from a farm in Lower Austria. Consistency & supply is key so a constant year’s supply is managed & warehoused.

Here in this ancient cellar kitchen the bread is given time to proof properly, the deep, wood fired wall oven is stoked by the baker’s knowledge and watched with the modern thermal gun he occasionally shoots into the oven mouth to check temperature.

I stood in awe watching as he continuously pulled out about 30 loves with his 15 foot paddle , the other baker helping with the dusting and racking so they cooled properly. Loaves were being bought as quickly as they came out of the oven.

Delivery men with bikes would occasionally pop in to fill up their insulated bike bags. And the sweet yeast smells were intoxicating making me loose all inhibition when it came to my purchase. Traditional breads like Holzofrenbot (dense rye) and Vintschgerl (sourdough rye loaves with spices like fennel & caraway) both delicious slathered with morning jam and butter or with meat and cheese as your lunch . They bake Brioches with dried fruits and i also discovered the very traditional Austrian “fruitcake” known as Fruchtebot which is best left for weeks on the shelf before serving.

I imagine heaven could smell like this… but until then I will make it a priority to visit Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter instead Salzburg as often as I can!

The post Salzburg’s Mountain Bread appeared first on Rucksack Foodie.

Pan di santi, also known as Pan co Santi a traditional Tuscan semi-sweet bread made for All Saint’s Day November 1st) eaten to celebrate and remember the Saints and then also eaten on Nov 2 All Souls Day the day Italians celebrate remembrance of past loved ones (the loaves are called pan Deio morti- bread of the dead when eaten on Nov 2 All Souls Day) A national holiday, All Saints’ Day in Italy started around the 9th century & today in Italy on November 1 Italian families visit their local parish for mass & then after celebrate with a nice long lunch with family and friends. (More history on this holiday below recipe…)

This special Tuscan bread loaf is a seasonal treat whose ingredients are symbolic for the saints and aspects of the holiday featuring raisins, walnuts , black pepper (for death) , orange zest, and sugar. Often you’ll also find added almonds, pine nuts, honey, figs & dates.

Lucky for us we were visiting Grieve in Chianti on the only day Pan fi Santi loaves are baked by tiny Forno (bakery) tucked away under an ancient portico on the back corner of the piazza.

We headed to a favorite overlook on the edge of the Tuscan village of Panzano and I sliced us up some 12 month Pecorino washed in olive paste and some cinghiale (wild boar salami) all pairing perfectly with a Classic Chianti, a beautiful view and the most lovely friends!

This simple loaf would be a fabulous accompaniment to your holiday cheese boards, simple to make and just slightly sweet so it would pair so deliciously with just about any cheese (especially with a drizzle of honey!)

Here’s a recipe….

Pan di Santi (Bread of the Saints

2 ¾ cups flour

1 teas sea salt

2 teas black pepper

1 tbsp olive oil

1½ teas active dry yeast

1 cup raisins (you could add dates,figs, or any dried fruit)

1 cup walnuts, roughly chopped (walnuts do make a difference although you could use almonds)

• Dissolve the yeast in 1 cup warm water.  Mix the flour, salt & pepper together, make a well and add the yeast and olive oil.  Mix the wet ingredients with a fork, gradually incorporating all the flour until it forms a ball.  Add the raisins (or dried fruit)& walnuts & then knead until smooth and elastic.  Place the dough in an olive oiled bowl, cover and let rise until doubled.  Take out, knead again for a few minutes, then shape into an even round loaf, place it on parchment paper lined baking sheet and allow it to rise a last time for 30 minutes, brush with egg yolk , sprinkle on some sugar (optional) then bake it at 400° until brown.  It will be done when tapping on the bottom produces a hollow sound. 

All Saints Day has its roots in the 4th century, with early celebrations taking place in Greece or Turkey.

In Italy the holiday dates back to the 7th century when Pope Gregory II established it originally in the spring but the holiday was eventually moved to November 1st for reasons unknown.

The purpose of All Saints Day is to honor all Christian saints, particularly those who do not have their own feast day on the Catholic calendar.

Different European countries have their unique traditions associated with All Saints Day but Italy it’s a day for families to spend time together, exchange gifts and partake in feasts to celebrate their saintly namesakes.

Pan di santi, also known as Pan co Santi a traditional Tuscan semi-sweet bread made for All Saint’s Day November 1st) eaten to celebrate and remember the Saints and then also eaten on Nov 2 All Souls Day the day Italians celebrate remembrance of past loved ones (the loaves are called pan Deio morti- bread of the dead when eaten on Nov 2 All Souls Day) A national holiday, All Saints’ Day in Italy started around the 9th century & today in Italy on November 1 Italian families visit their local parish for mass & then after celebrate with a nice long lunch with family and friends. (More history on this holiday below recipe…)

This special Tuscan bread loaf is a seasonal treat whose ingredients are symbolic for the saints and aspects of the holiday featuring raisins, walnuts , black pepper (for death) , orange zest, and sugar. Often you’ll also find added almonds, pine nuts, honey, figs & dates.

Lucky for us we were visiting Grieve in Chianti on the only day Pan fi Santi loaves are baked by tiny Forno (bakery) tucked away under an ancient portico on the back corner of the piazza.

We headed to a favorite overlook on the edge of the Tuscan village of Panzano and I sliced us up some 12 month Pecorino washed in olive paste and some cinghiale (wild boar salami) all pairing perfectly with a Classic Chianti, a beautiful view and the most lovely friends!

This simple loaf would be a fabulous accompaniment to your holiday cheese boards, simple to make and just slightly sweet so it would pair so deliciously with just about any cheese (especially with a drizzle of honey!)

Here’s a recipe!!

Pan di Santi (Bread of the Saints

2 ¾ cups flour

1 teas sea salt

2 teas black pepper

1 tbsp olive oil

1½ teas active dry yeast

1 cup raisins (you could add dates,figs, or any dried fruit)

1 cup walnuts, roughly chopped (walnuts do make a difference although you could use almonds)

⁃ Dissolve the yeast in 1 cup warm water.  Mix the flour, salt & pepper together, make a well and add the yeast and olive oil.  Mix the wet ingredients with a fork, gradually incorporating all the flour until it forms a ball.  Add the raisins (or dried fruit)& walnuts & then knead until smooth and elastic.  Place the dough in an olive oiled bowl, cover and let rise until doubled.  Take out, knead again for a few minutes, then shape into an even round loaf, place it on parchment paper lined baking sheet and allow it to rise a last time for 30 minutes, brush with egg yolk , sprinkle on some sugar (optional) then bake it at 400° until brown.  It will be done when tapping on the bottom produces a hollow sound. 

All Saints Day has its roots in the 4th century, with early celebrations taking place in Greece or Turkey.

In Italy the holiday dates back to the 7th century when Pope Gregory II established it originally in the spring but the holiday was eventually moved to November 1st for reasons unknown.

The purpose of All Saints Day is to honor all Christian saints, particularly those who do not have their own feast day on the Catholic calendar.

Different European countries have their unique traditions associated with All Saints Day but Italy it’s a day for families to spend time together, exchange gifts and partake in feasts to celebrate their saintly namesakes.

The post Tuscany’s Saint Bread appeared first on Rucksack Foodie.