At the beginning of my career, someone suggested that I meet the founder of a fashion brand. Though nascent, their sales figures were impressive, but they openly encouraged customers to wear their items once, maybe twice, throw it out and buy something else so that they always had a new look. I just couldn’t get past it, morally or logically.

I think about this a lot when people talk about shopping at chain stores as a moral failing. It’s seen as more restrained, disciplined, and elegant to be buying from smaller or independent brands. “High street is bad, vintage is good! Zara is the problem!”

But, but but — you can buy from H&M and shop like an editor, and you can buy pieces from Zara and re-wear them for years on end (I have Zara pieces I’ve had for years). And, you can buy from independent designers or vintage and shop in excess.

I am a big vintage shopper — and have been for years — but the way vintage/designer consignment (I will use these two terms interchangeably) shopping is spoken about now is sounding a lot like how we talk about fast fashion. Cyclical, trend-drive, season-to-season. We’re told we could buy something vintage, wear it once, and then re-sell it. People are turning over vintage the way they once turned over high street. The way we’re framing it morally has shifted, but the behaviour hasn’t changed.

You are lying to yourself when you’re using the term ‘investment’ in regards to your wardrobe, shopping, fashion. An investment pays future dividends, an income or appreciation over time. Clothing and accessories, for 99% of the time, are not investments. You can’t immediately trade it for cash, and while the vintage resale market has made it increasingly easier to offload things, it’s not reliable, guaranteed, and won’t pay your mortgage.

When we call something an investment, we’re borrowing the authority of finance to justify an emotional decision. It makes an excuse for the purchase without requiring you to be honest about what the purchase actually is. It becomes a shorthand for ignoring the questions of why you want it in the first place. You are allowed to buy things for joy and pleasure, but calling it an investment is cheating.

The throughline here is intention, and it starts with what questions you ask before you buy. There’s a lot of talk about culling your wardrobe — but what’s more efficient is to do the editing before it even gets into your shopping bag. The point of being an editor is knowing what to remove; it’s about being subtractive. But nowadays with the plethora of everything on the internet, this is becoming harder and harder.

I've been wanting to make this argument for years. The rest of it — including the three questions I ask myself before buying anything is for paid subscribers, who make this newsletter possible and get the fuller version every time.

If Screenshot This is useful to you, subscribing is the best way to support it — you an also comment, like or share my work.

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EXPLORE: Inside the Alex Eagle-designed hotel and luxury apartments

I remember when I first heard of ’s boutique in Kensington, and then seeking out her merchandising work out when she opened a store in Soho. Now, she has designed the interiors of a new property called 180 Thames that encompasses hotel accommodation, residences, a bar and restaurant that is by Danny Bohan, formerly of The River Cafe. Everything she is involved in has a touch of classicism but an element of the unexpected. It doesn’t follow trends, but truly sets them.

And, I find her career fascinating because as Lauren Sherman has said of her, she really has made a business out of her own good taste — listen to her interview on the Fashion People podcast; here’s the Apple link, and here’s Spotify. A long-time Australian fashion PR would often quip, “You can’t make money from having taste too good” which I still think is valid in many contexts, but Eagle seems to have been the exception to the rule. As well as her own Substack and being a contributor for Vogue, she has collaborated with J. Crew last year and of course, her own stores, boutiques, edits and properties.

EXPLORE: Eugenia McQuarrie on Tiktok

My favourite TikTok follow. I have a running list on my phone of what to add to my newsletter and I kept on skipping at Eugenia mention. She’s since blown up — I am in love with her slightly vintage, quirky, femme yet very fashion-leaning style. She designs handbags, travels to fun places with her parents, and tries on clothes from Cathy B Graham’s wardrobe. I love when people rich right!

And she speaks VERY good Mandarin?!

Her father is filmmaker Christopher McQuarrie, who has directed and written films like Top Gun: Maverick, and several Mission Impossible films. As has mentioned, if this were two decades ago, she definitely would be profiled in Teen Vogue. This is a great nepo baby follow.

WATCH: The Drama and Eternity

I watched these two films on a long-haul flight recently and thoroughly enjoyed both. I studied Art History and Film Theory in university and really, really love movies, but I haven’t had much time to indulge in them recently. (Kids, etc etc. Movies have a time commitment! I also tried watching Marty Supreme on the plane and could not get through it.)

Both of these films are about relationships, specificALLY marriage. I’ll blame the cabin pressure, but I teared up watching Eternity — Joan (played by Elizabeth Olsen) goes to heaven where she needs to decide whether she’ll spend eternity with her first husband who had died young in war, or her second husband, with whom she had children and a long life with. I am a big rom com fan so this was the right type of energy for me.

The Drama has Zendaya and Robert Pattinson playing a couple about to get married. We see the (sort of) meet cute, and the wedding planning and the eventual wedding — and all the drama that ensues. It was an interesting accompaniment to watch it alongside Eternity. What will make or break a relationship? In The Drama, can long-standing history overturn something that is societally shocking? Both of these films also explore the public and private: in both films it’s the public perception of the relationship that seems to dominate how each couple sees itself, but ultimately, of course, it’s really the private nuances that cannot be conveyed so openly that make the relationship. I can write more about this but I really don’t want to spoil either of them for anyone because they both hinge on WILL IT LAST.

READ: ‘Roblox has taken the place of McDonald’s’: Inside booming teen economy by Lauren Sams for the Australian Financial Review

A surprising yet confronting account of what teenagers are spending now. There is an account of a teenager whose grandmother holidaying in Paris bought her an Hermès Kelly, and for her 15th birthday, she received a Dior Saddle bag. The term teenager is a relatively modern concept, coined in the 1950s, and is a boon for advertisers.

For the incoming Gen Alphas, it’s Roblox that is their new dominant form of advertising.

“By marketing on Roblox, you are getting kids to grow with you,” she says. The gamified content includes things such as obstacle courses and role-playing games – all built by users on the platform. “The customer is not scrolling; she is playing, and the brands that appear in her game world become part of the world she associates with her friends and childhood.”

Getting in early, says Moore, is the key. “The brands that wait until Gen Alpha is 12 to start marketing to them are showing up too late because the brand decision was made when she was nine.”

SHOP

I was recently at Hamilton Island Race Week as a guest of Hamilton Island (I used it as an excuse to do a reccy of Sundays, the accommodation where we stayed to determine it was indeed very kid appropriate whilst having excellent food). I re-wore this Chan Luu coat, this time with pants — I had last worn the lightweight coat for a wedding over a skirt. I am crazy about this coat. Pants are A. Emery, shoes are Tony Bianco (the most comfortable ‘basic’ heels that I’ve had and go with everything), both of which I’ve had for years. Suede bag is Yu Mei — it comes with a long cross-body strap which I’ve removed for the evening.

On packing, I keep on forgetting to mention these Cou Cou pyjamas. I’ve brought them on the last few trips, and they are some of the comfiest pyjamas I’ve worn recently. The pointelle fabric is stretchy which is a must when travelling because there’s a higher chance of tossing and turning in an unfamiliar bed (even on holidays), and the floral print is just very pretty. A friend commented on them assuming they were very fancy and way more expensive than they are. They work for all weathers, whether it’s balmy or air-conditioning hotel cold. They’re now available at DotShop in Australia. I have this top and these pants.

A friend of mine got this bag recently and I’m going to share her secret (sorry!!!). Yes, it’s very similar to The Row Idaho… but it’s less than 10% of the price. It comes in various colours, but I love the green.

I’m probably just really interested in the East West-style tote at the moment, and Sezane have a new range of them as part of their re-brand. A friend bought one recently and did note that they are not very structured and it’s not a coated canvas so may dirty easily, so perhaps best to veer away from the white ones.

On this note, I really want to talk to people about this rebrand. Comment on this or start a thread in my subscriber’s chat.

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It’s warming up in Sydney and I am not sick of the taffeta trend. The freshness of this pink in shorts form from Reformation is really beguiling.

I’ve had a few friends ask me for jewellery recommendations, particularly pieces that involve birthstones and ideally are under AU$3000ish. I love my Real Fine Studio ring with my kids’ birthstones — here I’m trying a few together at the same time at their last Sydney trunkshow (I don’t own them all… yet). They also come in pendant form which are also very delectable. This style of an oval centre stone with a pretty halo of other stones is quite classic, but their colour combinations make it more irreverent and modern.

Friends were recently chatting about where to find very thin ceramics for home and I suggested Australian brand Marmoset Found — I have a few of their vases and platters.

For a recent trip to Tokyo, I was stumped on finding accommodation. I wanted somewhere that was boutique, design-led, in a certain area near where I liked exploring, and didn’t break the bank. Trunk Hotel was booked out, so I inputted my preferences into AI. It provided me three hotels. One was not even close to what I wanted (corporate hotel in the wrong location), but there were two others that looked intriguing. They turned out to not exist. When pressed, AI presented me with fake images of the hotels, and when I said I couldn’t find the website or Google Map location, it admitted it had made a mistake.

The rise of artificial intelligence anxiety is real, and no wonder. If AI can suggest something as benign as fake hotels, what else is it suggesting that isn’t actually real?

With fashion, these anxieties target our sense of self: what is real, what is something that we can control, what is really us versus what is being forced upon us.

The Industrial Revolution saw a rise in technological advancement which saw new ways of creation and the rise of the Arts and Crafts movement. Valuing visible human labour, craftsmanship and natural flaws that come with it, C.R. Ashbee, a major figure in the movement said: “We do not reject the machine. We welcome it. But we would desire to see it mastered.” The items that came from Arts and Crafts have been made by hand – it’s clear it has the human touch.

With the improvement in photography, Impressionist artists sought to capture what the camera couldn’t do in their artwork: the way the light scintillated across hay, the colour and subjectivity of what is seen by the eye and not the lens. Like the Arts and Craft, it wasn’t about rejecting technology altogether but understanding the purpose of the camera and having artists really hone in on what made them – not the camera – the true artist.

Similarly in fashion, it’s needing to overindex in the personal part of personal style – something that can’t be replicated by machine, the human touch.

The oldest Gen Zs are now on the verge of their 30s – their generation of hyperpersonal expression and wanting to stand out and really be themselves has influenced what’s happening in fashion for the rest of us, and for the better.

Every technological leap has forced the same question back onto us, the human. What can we do that the machine can’t? Painters answered with capturing the light, craftspeople focused on the mark of the hand. Fashion’s answer, right now is personalisation – not as decoration, but as proof of you. Here’s where to start.

New Balance 204L (Personalised)

It is an understatement to say that sneakers are a ubiquitous mainstay of our modern wardrobe. They are necessary – they’re comfortable, my podiatrist tells me to wear them more! – yet how to stand out and make it you? The New Balance 204Ls are the very definition of low effort yet high statement, and with charms, can add textural interest to your sneakers. And, the convertibility of them means you can transform the look of them over, and over, and over.

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New Balance are offering a selection of personalisation kits with charms to try for readers of my newsletter. For the opportunity to be sent one, please click here. And, for paid subscribers, I’d love to make sure I have you preferenced – comment below if you’ve signed up for it and I’ll be sure to do what I can to make sure you get it.

Claim your New Balance charm kit here

Beauty products

French brand Buly harks back to yesteryear with its apothecary-style stores and products. Its lip balms can be embossed with your initials, and selecting colours and finishes of your choice. Fragrance brand Le Labo can print the customer’s name/message on the label. I find the fact that these very intimate beauty products very special because it’s not something that is outwardly worn, only you, as the wearer, know about it. It’s your own private joy.

Heavenly Jelly shoes

When I clicked on ‘add to cart’, I did not anticipate that I would be sent a mini craft kit to assemble sequin and beaded decorations (what they call ‘Totzpping) on jelly ballet flats. Playing around with the different decorations to work out what I wanted was unexpectedly soothing, and like adding charms to the New Balance 204L, decorating shoes – subtly! – is happening across the board.

Handbag charms as a category

Searches for ‘bag charms’ are up 340% year-over-year. American bag brand Coach – which has been lauded for appealing to the fickle Gen Z market – have stores that allow customers to select bag charms, straps, and get bags painted or monogrammed.

Personalised tailoring

Back in the day, clothes couldn’t be bought off the rack: one had to make it themselves, or find someone else to do it. Visit your local tailor – I still remember my mother getting a flower girl dress made when I was a child at Nelder Jones on Oxford st, and getting carefully measured and having the lace-details applied by hand. They do evening gowns and other special occasion pieces. My favourite local tailor is Lauren, who is located at Little Terry Street, Surry Hills. She is old-school and isn’t on the internet, so look for the yellow door. E. Nolan provide classic tailoring made-to-measure with modern sartorial self-expression at her Melbourne studio, which is a treasure box space to visit.

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EXPLORE: There’s a lot of discourse about taste.

Specific articles I would recommend: ‘Have I been influenced, or is this actually me?’ How personal taste fell out of fashion, by Rachel Aroesti for The Guardian and TasteSlop on Substack

Surely you’ve seen the taste discourse everywhere. Is it over? Is the algorithm telling us what our taste is?

Taste is still there, but, it’s being sold back to us.

First, the algorithmic anxiety where we worry whether our opinions are actually ours, or if we’re just being funnelled further into what we already like without being shown a diversification of thought. (See: what’s happening with politics now, where polarisation is at its extreme). You see this in film and TV where the majority out there is a remake or a reboot of a known quantity, like Marvel films. It’s so rare that you see a truly original story or even original filmmaking techniques. Fashion similarly — decisions are made based on data. I last wrote about it here; it’s still relevant.

And then you’ve got the AI discussions happening. I am sick of every business interview/panel discussion I’ve seen where there’s the token question about how the business is using AI. With AI the big question is how it can have taste — the word taste is so loaded with pretension and snobbery, but it really means judgement. How do you know something is good? It takes knowing yourself really well and honestly, experience, and I do wonder if younger generations will ever get a chance to develop that.

Two articles about it that I’ve enjoyed recently are Rachel Aroesti for The Guardian:

It has become impossible to ignore: personal taste has been seriously debased – if not completely destroyed – by technological advancement. We know the internet has radically altered the way we form our opinions and beliefs. Now we’re waking up to another sobering truth: it has wrecked our capacity to form our own preferences.

Then, read it in tandem with Tasteslop by Emily Segal on the Substack Nemesis, about how there’s the performance of good taste: you know, using lowercase serif against a trendy block colour. They define tasteslop as “Slop made out of things considered to be tasteful”. There’s a lot of not-so-great things out there, but if it has hallmarks of ‘tasteful’, there’s bound to be someone out there who thinks it’s tasteful, when it’s not actual tasteful. Y’know? As they define it, taste is from Discernment, Pattern Recognition, and Idiosyncrasy. Honestly, the best definition of taste I’ve ever read.

Discernment. Can you tell one thing from another, and can you make a specific, articulated judgment about why one thing is better than another?

Pattern Recognition. This has two parts: knowledge of the past (this can be art history or meme culture or something else entirely, but you have to be able to recognize when something new is rhyming with the past, contradicting it, remixing it, etc.) and intuition (this is art not science, this might be somewhat mystical), it is a sensitivity that allows you to predict things, to be early, to know what experiment to try next as a scientist, to know what song would sound right next, etc.

Idiosyncrasy. Personal relevance is the type of thing that makes taste meaningful, contextual, and automatically somewhat esoteric… The personal and idiosyncratic connection makes things less obvious and prevents them from being meaningfully cloned by absolutely everyone (i.e. becoming tasteslop) even if the actual taste markers are not totally different in content.

Taste isn’t dead, but it’s being confident to build your own taste. Taste is subjective, that’s the point! It’s personal! This is something I do grapple with personally, particularly my newsletter starting off as about recommendations. I like my taste. Because it’s me and I’m in my head. I don’t particularly care if it’s good taste, because it’s personal. And when I recommend something, it’s because I like it.

So here’s what I actually am liking to read, explore and shop right now.

EXPLORE: Someone on Reddit has inherited some epic jewellery

I love a Reddit browse because I really enjoy understanding what makes people tick (or, what really annoys them). Before you ask, I don’t post! I just like to read it, you know, get an understanding of what is happening out there on the internet. So this is a niche one. An anonymous poster using a burner account has recently started sharing some pieces that she’s inherited recently, asking for help on identification. She won’t reveal who the pieces are from, but internet sleuths are thinking a famous actress from the 50s/60s who may have passed away recently.

The poster said while she will keep some and wear them out grocery shopping if she has to, she is speaking to auction houses like Sothebys to get them valued. Meanwhile, she is posting them anonymously on the internet so they can be admired. Commenters are coming out helping her with identifying the stones, the era, the make, but also urging to get them properly valued and insured, because, wow, they are some serious pieces.

Here are some of my favourites.

I’ve been writing this newsletter for five years, and I realised recently that I’ve been making assumptions about who’s reading it.

So I’d like to ask you, instead.

As to what it’s for: more considered content, how to connect with the community more directly, deeper intelligence product. And I want to build it around who you actually are, not who I’m imagining you to be.

It’s 15 questions and takes about five minutes. If you are able to respond, I would be infinitely grateful.

Everyone who responds will get a dedicated edition sharing back what I find — I’m genuinely curious what this readership looks like in aggregate, and I think you might be as well.

If you’re interested, here’s a link for the survey in the button below.

Let's talk about you

This is supported by Volvo.

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LISTEN: My favourite podcasts of the moment

One of my most frequently asked questions is for podcast recommendations.

My two recent favourites — because honestly sometimes we just want to listen to something fun and light and I need a break from work-related podcasts — is Critics-At-Large from The New Yorker, where their critics discuss everything from Charli XCX’s film The Moment, to Jackass (in the episode The Golden Age of the American Idiot) to Romantasy and more. If you are in my ‘READ AND LISTEN recommendations’ channel on my Instagram you would have noticed I recommend their episodes frequently. It’s truly high and low.

The Rest is Entertainment is another favourite. I love Marina Hyde’s voice and I’m fascinated by Richard Osman’s prolific writing career. Their have unique and interesting points-of-view about the inner workings of the media and entertainment industries, answering questions like how hard and expensive is it to film the Olympics, to Royal gossip.

SHOP

I realise I have perhaps an unhealthy obsession with cape tops. But here’s another one that I’ve just added to cart — it helps that it’s priced at AU$168.

I always liked this style of shorts that Prada popularised a few years ago. Here is the Tibi version.

It’s no secret that I’m really into Chan Luu at the moment. They’re calling this ‘techno taffeta’ shorts. I know the main Chan Luu website can be a bit annoying to shop from when in Australian, so this is from Shopbop.

Wearing your jackets as a top is a thing! Love this Rixo one which you could wear opened up over a lace silk camisole and jeans, or buttoned up entirely with pants.

Just wow. Devastatingly, this amazing Dries Van Noten skirt is severely reduced but there’s only EU34 left. Not my size. Hope someone else can snap this up.

I know last week’s newsletter was all about how I packed for a short summer holiday, but the truth is that I’m back in Sydney and it’s cold. I love a slipper at home — Chinese house — so I wear these after I have a shower. They’re warm, soft, and with a flexible sole they’re like more developed socks with the warmth and cosiness of shearling. They’re from New Zealand brand Wilson + Dorset.

Before COVID I used to travel regularly for work and for fun. Australians will know what I mean by this flex: I have lifetime Gold Frequent Flyer membership at Qantas. Amazing, yes, but I’m spoilt enough to still feel chagrined that I miss my Platinum memberships. And, I was travelling a lot with my then-boyfriend, now husband. In 2019, we did Tokyo and Osaka, Bora Bora, Lisbon for my best friend’s wedding and then London.

Then the pandemic, kids, and solo travelling became something of the past. Except for this year, when I went to London for five days. I was there for a Cotswolds wedding (two days) and also had a 12-hour Tokyo layover, which in hindsight was the perfect way to break-up a long haul flight.

I used to be an excellent packer with practice. But this time, I was sorely lacking. I checked the weather, and tried to think about how each piece made sense in the greater scheme of things. I planned out what I was to wear for the wedding events so that was easy, but I still came home with a suitcase half-filled with never-worn clothes.

My most-worn pieces surprised me the most

At the last minute, I threw in two pairs of above-the-knee elasticised shorts that from the outset seemed similar enough that if I was being more ruthless, I would have only packed one pair. The first: butter yellow cotton from Faithfull, and the other bright white silk taffeta from Beare Park (old season, here it is in black). So different, right?

They worked well with flat sandals, ballet flats or low-heels. I could dress them up or down. Plain tops for the day, or something nicer at night; heatwave appropriate but polished. And looking around, this was a popular look in London, too.

I’d noticed a gap in my shoe wardrobe: I have plenty of black flats (likely too many) but often read as too corporate or wintery, and while I’m a big fan of white flats, sometimes they read too stark. Enter: tan suede ballet flats, which I found at Sézane (now on sale, they’re true to size).

For tops, I always want something that is relaxed-cut. I’ve always liked that silhouette of a loose top with fitted/short bottoms, or even wide-leg pants. It just reads as more elegant and dare-I-say-it, effortless to me…

I have a few casual ones, and have long been in search of one that’s more dressy in a satin, and finally found the perfect one at Toteme on Mount street (available here and here). It fits true to size, and it says dryclean only but I just washed it in the washing machine on gentle and it came out fine.

A long-line top/short tunic does similar work. An A-line Blanca piece I bought at the tail end of last summer remained barely worn, but was a firm favourite on holidays. I’d wear it loose over said shorts above, or with a vintage pearl rope tied around the waist, or, with the matching balloon pants, as below. I sized up for length, given my height — in hindsight my regular size would've been better. It's a touch too loose, but reads easy-breezy.

And then the sandals — the ones I actually expected to die on this trip. Tan Chloé, bought from the outlet in Paris fifteen-odd years ago, packed on the theory that if they finally gave out, I’d have permission to replace them. They didn’t. Most comfortable thing I brought, which is an annoying thing to admit about shoes that old. I packed FOUR DIFFERENT FLAT SANDALS and ended up wearing these the most.

Buy that random souvenir

I bought this shell necklace from Anna + Nina on Chiltern street on sale for about 25 pounds. I wore it for dinner one night at Clement Cafe and in just a few hours, was asked about it over five times which is insane compliments-per-wear ratio.

I’m here to de-influence you from Tokyo designer consignment bag shopping

I’ve been buying design consignment there for over a decade. I have written an in-depth post about how to navigate Tokyo designer consignment bag shopping. I used to shop at Amore Vintage when it was a tiny room in a hidden office block, years before Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid posted about it.

Below the paywall: the advice to ignore, and a frank assessment of shopping in London, Bicester Village and Tokyo. I’ve been to Bicester Village twice before and never bought anything — but this time I did well.

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It’s less about buying pre-loved exactly — this isn’t about vintage versus new or current season. Now it’s about the specificity, and knowing exactly what you want, and how to get it.

Over dinner at the newly opened Café Clement in London recently, my old friend Erica Wright said to me: “What’s chic is not to have excess.” (I’ve also previously interviewed her here.)

She should know — a few years ago, she started the personal shopping app Sourcewhere, which connects people who want to buy something specific, to people who just know how to find the item.

We talk about shopping a lot. From that time I bought something from an Instagram-based vintage sourcer and it took three months to get the item with no communication from them (… don’t get me started) — she explained that to get on the platform as a sourcer, they have to be tested and verified for reliability. (The one I used didn’t pass, unsurprisingly). To some of the one-off purchases that are truly wild — rare couture pieces.

What are currently the most requested items? She’s pulled together some recent most requested items. Some I wasn’t surprised about — Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel is on there, but some I was FLOORED about. (Like the leopard pinafore, below!) And, it’s fascinating to see what made a request increase in popularity.

Read on, and start adding to your own wishlist.

Chanel Métier d’art 2026 Collection, Look 33

The Chanel leopard pinafore dress (Métiers d’Art, New York) was one of the single most requested looks from the collection, with multiple requests across the US and Asia. Several clients wanted the complete runway look, including the hand-moulded leopard fascinator created by Maison Michel. There were a lot of novel, collectible pieces in this collection, but this particular accessory certainly surprised us in terns of demand.

Note from ZW: I am still floored about this. Here is a video from Chanel about how the black fascinator is made — it’s hand-moulded. Lily-Rose Depp also wore it to the autumn/winter 2026 Chanel show.

Chanel Tab Jeans

Seen on Bhavitha in the opening look of the show, these have been Chanel’s strongest denim release in recent years. The cleaner, more minimalist design is definitely a departure from the house’s usual embellished or printed denim that we saw in Karl’s era. Requests have been high for both the straight and wide leg pairs across the UK and US in particular. Similar demand was seen with Celine’s Boyfriend jeans under Michael Rider, which sold out at the start of the year and feature the same understated logo tab on the back pocket.

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Chanel ponyhair shoes

The most requested item globally to date on Sourcewhere. All three silhouettes, the ballet flat, mid heel and high heel, have performed exceptionally well. The first requests came from LA-based creatives Christie Tyler and Jordan Risa, and all the three styles remained our most requested item for 12 consecutive weeks

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Hermès exotic leather bags

Demand for exotic leather Hermès continues to grow, particularly Constance and Kelly styles. As new-season bags edge towards five figures, vintage exotic leathers are becoming increasingly attractive. For only a small premium over a new leather bag, buyers can own a crocodile Hermès or Chanel with far greater rarity. A navy blue crocodile Constance is currently available on “Finds”, Sourcewhere’s section of the platform where items are available to shop immediately.

Note from ZW: A Constance has been on my dreamlist for over a decade.

The Row Idaho shoulder bag

Sold out almost immediately and remains one of the most requested bags of the summer, particularly in beige. It wasn’t entirely unexpected, as the original Idaho with the shorter handle sold through quickly, so we anticipated strong demand for this iteration.

The Row Ella slingback heels

First requested by clients in Australia before they had officially launched online. Both the mid and high heel versions continue to generate demand. A rare crocodile leather edition in red has become particularly sought after, retailing for more than €3,000. (The Row produces only a limited number of exotic leather shoes each season, making them especially difficult to source. Only select boutiques and retailers receive them).

Celine Disc sunglasses

Worn by Recho Omondi and featured on the latest cover of Neptune magazine, they sold out quickly and are now exceptionally difficult to find. The network recently located a pair in Miami Beach for a London-based request.

Note from ZW: I kind of want these sunglasses.

Chanel Maxi Flap Bag

Seen on Kendall Jenner. While the version worn by Hailey Bieber initially sparked demand, the Maxi Flap has become the more consistently requested item, particularly in dark red and beige. It comes in two sizes, but the larger 38cm version has been the more popular of the two.

Galliano-era fur-trimmed pieces

Archive designs from John Galliano’s time at Dior alongside Jean Paul Gaultier collections featuring fur trims, are seeing renewed interest. We’ve seen a rise in requests for both mid-length and cropped jacket iterations as prices have started to climb for the style

.

Chanel x Charvet

Following Chanel’s acquisition of Charvet, requests for the Charvet collaboration shirts from Matthieu Blazy’s debut collection have risen by 40% as clients begin treating the pieces as future collectibles. The pink and pale blue versions, each finished with the Charvet label sewn onto the lower hem, are proving the most sought-after.

All of these pieces are available to request through Sourcewhere. Visit Sourcewhere.com or download the Sourcewhere app on the App Store.

Subscribe to read how I’m making sense of all of this. These are all signals that tell you what’s happening in fashion, style and culture.

As a paid subscriber you get: access to archives including Style Strategy, priority when reaching out for me for advice and recommendation.

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I got to thinking about this because a lot more goes into working for yourself than it may appear.

To wit: I am currently sitting in Tokyo on a five hour long layover. I have spent the majority of my time eating in the lounge, and working.

I have spoken about how I am a work-centric person, and I have traded in corporate stability for flexibility which means that while I can pick up the kids at 4pm, or spend a whole day both kids then I’ll pick up work in the evenings (I am thankful they are great sleepers).

Some things I do I’m fast at (like writing and typing), and other things take a bit longer. There’s no shortcut.

My weekday workday schedule, on a day without kids

Because of the flexibility of working for myself, this can be one day a week, or three days a week, depending on what I have on. Not only am I thankful that my kids sleep well, but we have very helpful grandparents who love taking the kids out for the day when I need it.

7am: I am not a morning person. I wish I was. But I also feel a bit gross if I wake up after 7am, so this is my limit. I wear something comfortable but presentable — currently in rotation is my Muji’s menswear quarter zip and Zara marine jeans which I’ve worn for years. If I need to head out, I’ll wear a coat on top. I don’t wear loungewear. Perhaps I should do a What I wear to work at home newsletter.

Morning: Usually try to do meetings in the morning before I get stuck in deep-thinking working. This can include client feedback calls, briefings and brand partnership discussions. Because I’m working with so many different people, it can be on Google Meets or Teams, depending on what programs so I’ve got them all on my computer. After each meeting I need about 30 minutes to write notes and decompress.

Mid-morning to early afternoon: The actual work. Newsletters came take a whole day of work, or several days, or even several weeks if it’s particularly research intense (such as my brand deep-dives), depending on how my week is going with other work from brands and clients. Brand work is dependent on the brief: sometimes it’s a big picture strategy, other times it’s copywriting, and similar to working on my own output, I can spend hours each day on it. If I’m stuck, I force out a bad draft anyway and come back to it later, or the next day, with fresh eyes. Ideas are cheap, and execution is much harder. This is the hill I die on.

3:30pm: Kids.

3:30–7:30pm — Dinner, bath, bedtime. We limit screens and definitely no screens after 4pm. We listen to a lot of music. The Australian Chamber Orchestra Classical Music For Kids is on high rotation. Dinner is around 5-5.30pm, and they’re having a bath by around 6.30pm, then in bed at 7pm and asleep by 7.30pm. The benefit of working for myself is that I can start the routine early.

8–11pm — Second work block, for deadlines or international calls. I have clients who are internationally based so often this is the best to speak to them. Also, not being a morning person means I do a lot of idea generation and focused work in the evenings. I like the quiet and the lack of interruption. Sometimes I attend work events that occur in the evening, but I try to limit them to preserve energy and also depending how much work I have on for that week.

How I quality check my work

With my newsletter, I always ask myself a question before it goes out: if I were a cold reader who’d never heard of me, and this landed in my inbox, would it remind me why I should unsubscribe?

We all get so many emails nowadays, we’re all being as fickle as ever and I want my newsletter to be one that you read — or at least, don’t delete.

Have I ever sent anything that I regret? No, but, this isn’t my first rodeo. But looking back, I’m always thinking about how I could phrase something more artfully, but I think that’s also what keeps one improving.

I’m also really aware of giving credit. If I get inspiration from someone’s post, whether it’s ’s week-in-my life format, or ’s women series, I think it’s the right thing to do. Many of us are in the same boat, doing our thing, and I believe in the karma of supporting others and giving credit where credit is due.

My strengths and weaknesses, and how I use AI

Paid subscribers get the rest: how I edit, going from employee to manager then freelancer, and the mistakes that cost me before I fixed it.

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There’s a specific kind of girl who eschewed Lauren Conrad and Whitney Port and instead watched the superintern, Emily Weiss, spellbound.

That was me. For those who really know, Weiss went on to found Glossier. It has had its highs and lows and plateaus, but Weiss came to be one of the unofficial faces of the term girlboss, even though I’m sure she’ll h…

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Actually. I’m not.

That piece was about how to do it thoughtfully if you’re going to do it. I had crafted that for brands who didn’t actually intend to start off with focusing on the founder, but grew into it (let me know if you want me to go more into that later).

This newsletter is the question that you should be asking before all of that. Should you even do founder content?

My honest answer, most of the time, is no.

The obvious appeal: and why it’s the wrong reason

Founder content is in the short-term cheap and fast. You are there — you’re your own unlimited resource. You are your own working-around-the-clock employee. You don’t need to brief yourself, there’s no talent fees, and you are the only sign-off. You have an idea, and you can just execute it. You pat yourself on the back and tell yourself you’re being scrappy. I get it.

But that isn’t a content strategy. And it’s cheap and fast in the short-term, but you’ll pay the cost of it later on.

Resist the pressure

I’m going to be brutally honest. Female founders feel a lot more pressure to put themselves in content. There’s a thesis in this — and a separate one in how female founders are held to different standards than their male counterparts, further emphasised in founder-led content. See: the arc of the girlboss era: the up, down, the return and the questioning of it. I have a lot of thoughts on this which I can’t cover here otherwise I’ll get off track — comment if you want me to elaborate on this.

Leave a comment

The question nobody asks first

Before a founder starts posting, the question worth asking is: do you actually want to be a creator?

Behind the paywall: the structural risks, why customers are fatigued with watching founders pack boxes (you want engaged customers, not pity purchasers), and what to actually do instead.

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I am enjoying the next few weeks in Australia before I go to England for just five days to attend a friend’s wedding. So perhaps in that context I’m feeling more pining than usual for winter, but it’s the contrasts in life that make you appreciate the other side so much more. Yes, I am an optimistic, high energy person!

For everyone who contributed to London tips in my chat (see below) — thank you, thank you! If you have more to add, click and join the chat below.

I’m reviewing my previous summer dressing guides (how a city girl does summer dressing, and a summer outfit cheat formula guide here) and trying to not add anything new to my wardrobe. But, I have been perusing, so here is what is on my wish list.

The winter edit, from top left:

Deadly Ponies printed calfhair bag. New Zealand brand. This is a very good animal print.

Scarossa khaki nylon sneakers I’ve shared the before in another colour… and I’m still thinking about them.

Solaqua button-up coat. Australian brand. Also comes in black. I have a lot of black in my wardrobe though.

Oroton earrings Australian brand. Not large so can be worn daily.

Camilla & Marc scarf top Australian brand. Saw this being worn at an event and couldn’t stop thinking about it. It’s more of a dark green/grey in person than straight black.

Manolo Blahnik shoes on sale!

Dries Van Noten embellished handbag on sale! I have been eyeing this bag off for a while. I’m into a personality bag at the moment.

The summer edit, from top left:

Staud stripe bag. I’ve been thinking about an east-west shaped tote for a while, and The Row Idaho is not a realistic option for me. Staud have done several versions of this one that have been on my mind.)

Faithfull seashell anklet. Uncertain if I’m an anklet person, but this looks like you can adjust it to wear as a bracelet or necklace.

Chan Luu black shirt with feather trim. Wear it as a dress if you’re a petite gal, or over trousers as a tunic (this will be me).

Romy chartreuse fringed skirt. Really into chartreuse at the moment. Currently looking for a chartreuse clutch.

Heavenly Jelly shoes. We all saw share these shoes, and now I’m searching for a pair in my preferred colourway (this one!) and my size (so far, N/A).

Posse red shorts. Australian brand. The swim shorts are having a moment, mark my words.

Real Fine puffy heart diamond earrings. Wear it as a pair or double-up on a single earring.

Cou Cou bralette. The brand is now available on Dotshop. I stocked up on a few pairs recently because my underwear drawer was in a dire need of a refresh.

I’ve been writing this newsletter for five years, and I realised recently that I’ve been making assumptions about who’s reading it.

So I’d like to ask you, instead.

As to what it’s for: more considered content, how to connect with the community more directly, deeper intelligence product. And I want to build it around who you actually are, not who I’m imagining you to be.

It’s 15 questions and takes about five minutes. If you are able to respond, I would be infinitely grateful.

Everyone who responds will get a dedicated edition sharing back what I find — I’m genuinely curious what this readership looks like in aggregate, and I think you might be as well.

If you’re interested, here’s a link for the survey in the button below.

Let's talk about you

BEAUTY EDIT

This Beauty Edit is supported by Nature Of Things. I only work with brands that I have tried and genuinely like. If you’d like to work with Screenshot This, email sabrinacteh@gmail.com.

All I ever really want from my hair is that just-washed feeling that lasts: light, bouncy, clean, but not stripped. Is that too much to ask?!

I’ve been using the Sea Moss and Plum Oil voluminising shampoo and conditioner from Nature of Things, and it gets that balance right. What I love is that it doesn’t treat volume and hydration as opposing goals. You get the lift, but your hair still feels soft, which, if you’ve ever skipped conditioner in pursuit of bounce (I have), you’ll know is not always a given.

The formulas are natural- and plant-based, which is nice, but more importantly, they just work. It’s the kind of low-effort upgrade that makes your hair look better without having to think too much about it — which, to me, is the ideal.

New Zealand brand Tronque’s ionic dry body brush is one of the most beautiful beauty items I’ve seen. I’m also thoroughly enjoying their Firming Butter, which is such a dense, rich cream which my dry skin needs.

I’m a bit of a skeptic when it comes to celebrity beauty brands, but I was thoroughly impressed enough to metaphorically eat-my-hat with Tsu Lange Yor’s Garden fragrance discovery set (link for international, MECCA link for Australians). I’ve got a 3 out of 3 hit with the scents: Orange Blossom, Tomato and Fig are all very me.

I’m not really one to really take a lot of supplements because I genuinely believe in just eating proper food, but I was sent this Foraged Mothers Blend and was impressed. I’m not sure if it’s because it’s not the most appetising taste (it tastes healthy) but it seems like PMS moodiness was evened out. I’m not sure if that’s what it’s meant to do… but it seemed to have helped.

I’ve been trying to be really diligent with serums, but it’s easier when they seem like they’re doing something. Medik8’s Exo-PDRN Prismatic+ Serum seems like it’s pepped up my skin in ways I can’t explain (The Iconic also stock it).

Try it first, then I’ll apologise later. I’ve been using the Augustinus Bader vitamin C serum for the past few months. It is stunning, because most vitamin C serums have an odd texture even though you absolutely need to be using it everyday. But the price does give me pause! But it’s so good! I’m sorry!

I was in Melbourne for two days for work and made it to E. Nolan’s store on Gertrude street. It is beautiful, see below.

EXPLORE: Female photographers of the early 20th century

Here is a thoughtful list of female photographers from the early 20th century.

Mixed Tape: Pulses, Prose, and Pix

Trailblazing Women Photographers of the Early 20th Century

I must blame (sorry, credit!) my beautiful wife, Jenny, for helping me see the world through different eyes—at least a bit. For several years, she’s been adding books to her growing library by purchasing books written exclusively by women. As a result, I’ve been exposed to books by Alice Munro, Lisa Unger, Anne Tyler, Toni Morrison, Liane Moriarty, Iris…

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2 years ago · 6 likes · Timothy Patterson

Other favourites of mine that come to mind include the Australian photographer Olive Cotton — below is her work Cherokee Rose from 1970.

Fashion photographer Sarah Moon.

And Lillian Bassman.

I had dinner at my friend JV’s house. I am obsessed with Ginori, and if I could that would be the only platewear I have at home. She is already living my dream.

READ: Flesh by David Szalay

I saw an old university friends recently. For necessary background, he studied liberal arts and we would sit around around old sandstone buildings debating like, whether Jonathan Franzen was overrated or not. (My POV is that you’ve read one Franzen, you’ve read them all.) He asked me how trends happened. In fashion, he was referring to — he’d notice a certain sneaker rising in prominence — but it’s something relevant for any kind of practice.

We had just come out of David Szalay’s Q&A at Sydney Writer’s Festival. His book, Flesh, is the latest Booker award. I usually don’t love the Booker winners (that is a paragraph for another time, lest someone starts throwing stones at me), but you can see why this won; it’s an unexpected protagonist who is usually relegated to a goon cameo in every other book. I pointed out that Flesh is written in such a minimalist style — Zadie Smith has described Flesh as the book written for the TikTok generation — to me it’s reflecting what has happened in aesthetic culture as Kyle Chayka describes as ‘air space’ (one example of this is the the all-white minimalist look that you might find in ‘tasteful coffee shops’ that you might find all-over the world). This book is part of a trend, which intersects what’s happening in literature and outside of it, too. The first chapter is a gut-punch, grabbing you immediately just as a viral video might within the first few seconds. And the subject of the book itself is ever-topical, exploring the transactional nature of the world, an exchange of youth and beauty for power and money.

(Trends aren’t bad, which I have espoused before here. They tell you what’s happening in the world at that certain point in time from a certain viewpoint.)

What stayed with me most was Szalay noting that he purposely kept the protagonist’s mother omniprescent so that the reader would remember that he was always the child of someone.

Did we love the book? No. But I’m glad I read it, would recommend it to be read. There’s a lot to discuss.

Leave a comment

Next on my to-read list: Writers & Lovers and The Correspondent.

If you enjoyed my newsletter, honestly, clicking ‘like’ or commenting truly does help.

Thank you for reading.

That in Sydney we walked around bodies of water — in Melbourne it was the parks. And, the south and north divide is strong, despite there not even a toll route between them.

And sorry, please don’t hate me, but I never really got the hype about walking around The Tan. And I never understood why cafes were so quiet before 8am compared to Sydney. However, the parks are very nice, your coffee, dining scene and designer consignment shopping is superior.

You might be here because you enjoyed The field guide to the rich mums of inner-city Sydney. You might have stumbled upon here as a non-Australian, unfamiliar with the terrain of Australia, but trust me, you know these women anyway, wherever you are.

To give credit where credit is due: Noora Raj Brown did this for New York neighbourhoods and Paris ones, and of course Jennifer Cook’s viral ‘how to dress like a Brooklyn mom’.

Also, an Easter egg: as with the Sydney one, all the artwork I use as the background of the shopping collages are by female artists.

*This is all fictionalised. If you recognise yourself in any of the below, that is purely, and entirely by coincidence.

She lives in Fitzroy North

Even though she spent a formative year in Berlin, the only German words she remembers aside from “guten tag” is “bildungsroman”. She’s a child psychologist. Of course. Last week she saw Julia Busuttil Nishimura at a kid’s birthday party, texted her group chat to ask whether she should say anything to her, then missed her chance. Lingers at Carlton Farmers’ Markets waiting for her second shot. Petitioned to keep Piedimonte independent but if she can be bothered, actually goes to La Manna Fresh in Essendon to admire the wall of dips. Rides a bike. The kids also ride bikes. Her favourite cafés are Florian and Napier Quarter and is at pains to over-explain she went there before they became popular. She thinks it’s gauche to overacccessorise but can wear multiple knits and somehow can carry more than one handbag at once. Her best friend has an Instagram handle that starts with @ badgal___. The only time she goes down south is when she visits her parents’ place in Sorrento. She complains about the gentrification of her area but thinks Diptyque candles are an entry-level present.

Clockwise, from top left:

Friends with Frank jeans and cardigan

Thistles sunglasses

St Agni shoes

Ossa NYC phone strap

Harris Tapper jacket

Cleopatra Bling’s sun earrings

La Tribe woven bag

Toteme bag

Painting is Concerto by Helen Frankenthaler

She lives in Armadale

When in university she had a casual retail job at Hawksburn Village – now, she does her grocery shopping at the Toscana there. She is an art curator (she studied law though, of course). Was a prefect in high school and will still manage to mention it even though it was 20 years ago. She now flexes her organisational muscles by heading up the parents’ committee at her children’s private school. She still has a wrist stack of Cartier, tennis bracelets, and a coloured something that was made in a sip’n’craft class. If she has an occasion, she goes to The New Trend. She wears Oroton because she’s family friends with Sophie Holt. Has one friend who moved northside – they catch up at their parents’ shared beach frontage in Portsea, or Bistro Elba. Coffee is from Morning Market where she will still take a photo of the flowers and upload it to Instagram Stories with a caption in small font saying “morning” (no caps). Afternoon wines at Albert’s with friends (no kids) and family meals are at The Orrong or Mount Erica. Bistro Thierry for special occasions; the food is superior than France-Soir she’ll remind you (even if the vibes aren’t). Swore she’d never dress like her mother, but here we all are. Tells people she lives in the area for the schools, but in reality can’t imagine living anywhere else. Maybe Sydney.

Clockwise, from top left:

Scanlan & Theodore boots

St Agni pants

Ida S cashmere knit

Celine belt

Dries Van Noten clutch

Roucha black blazer

Sarah & Sebastian earrings

Camilla & Marc coat

Painting is Under the Trees by Elisabeth Cumming

She lives in Richmond

Someone in her family is involved in construction. Or football. (AFL for non-Victorians.) She’s an account director and partner at an agency; she’s smug because her office is in Cremorne so the commute is a short walk. She dreams about the company becoming acquired and using the equity funds do an edgy, all-glass extension to her single-level Edwardian home. The front door has been painted with a pop of colour. She was going to Sense of Self weekly but has recently joined The Commons Health Club as a cost-saving measure. She calls herself a feminist and reads Roxane Gay, but buys sandwiches every weekend at sandwich shops with a man’s name. She once saw Bec Harding at Midi and wanted to ask her about her house renovation. The kids wear Koko Momo tie-dye sets. Work drinks are at Frederic, with friends it’s at Clover or Future Future. Will take a lot of organic wine to admit that the coffee in the area isn’t good.

Clockwise, from top left:

Sir The Label bag

The Undone phone strap

Henne jeans

Cushla Whiting ring

Auralee x New Balance

Vir Vita cashmere cardigan

Agolde leather jacket

Painting is Group IV, The Ten Largest, No. 3, Youth, by Hilma Af Klint

She lives in Albert Park

Doesn’t identify as living on the south side of Melbourne, and will make a big deal to explain that – despite literally living next to a suburb called South Melbourne, it is very different to, you know, south Melbourne. She started off in HR but now calls herself a “corporate wellness consultant”. Breakfast is at Juniper – she gets a mix of the daily salads with an egg on the side which seems to defeat the purpose of even picking the salads but it’s better this way. Is loath to admit that Albert Park Lake is a terrible place to walk because it’s too windy but is chuffed that she’s closer to the superior market. Is disdainful of the Gen Zs going to SWOP South Melbourne for TikToks but is simultaneously relieved that someone is taking her old 2000s-era party clothes from Eve Bar days. Can’t resist something that can be defined as “quirky” and “design-led” . Will try to convince you that the food in her area is so much better now, but as if she’s eating all her meals at Bread Club.

Clockwise, from top left:

Blanca printed skirt and sweater

Essen chocolate riding boot

Bangla Begum earrings

Binny coat

Yu Mei suede tote

Nour Hammour foulard shearling scarf

Millie Savage heart rings

Oroton scarf top

Painting is Réalité by Sophia Fine

IF YOU LIKED THIS, YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE

Enjoy!

READ: Yesteryear, by Caro Claire Burke

Where have you been if you haven’t read Yesteryear? This book about a slowly unravelling tradwife has been all over the internet, Amazon Prime has already confirmed it’ll turn it into a movie starring Anne Hathaway, and those who have read it either love it — or hate it. The thank you note at the end in fact includes Amazon and Hathaway. Apparently it was written in a two month fever dreams and it reads like that, too — with a rumoured US$1m+ advance.

The social commentary of what it means to be a woman and the performance of womanhood kept me going — it’s satire with even more bite than anticipated, and it highlighted the conundrums with the world that comes to head with cultural and societal expectation.

Told from the perspective of a more right-leaning extreme Christian female character, which is not the point-of-view that I’m accustomed to in my usual fiction reading. That, I found fascinating — that is exactly what fiction is for, to transport you and see it from the side of someone entirely different to you.

With books that are so topical like this, I wonder how it would read in a few years or a decade in time. Perhaps it will have encapsulate a tradwife moment that in hindsight we’ll come to realise is only fleeting internet blip, or will this sentiment only continue to grow wings. There is a timeliness and universality to the key themes which are overshadowed by the internet virality of the tradwife subject: the logical paradoxes of most women (myself included) wanting to work but also wanting to be a good parent and then over-indexing on effort on both.

I really want to discuss the ending but don’t want to spoil it for those who haven’t read it. Suffice to say, this is a book that’s more about the journey rather than the destination. It’s not going to give you any of the answers, but at least it’ll have you thinking — or at least, smiling wryly.

COOK: Orange and ricotta crackle cookies

Made these after doing a quick Google search on how to use up some leftover ricotta and did not expect them to taste as good as they did. They are slightly more cake-like than cookie-like which is probably why I liked them.

WATCH: Rivals season 2

My favourite kind of television is low-stakes but high production. I don’t necessarily mean glossy sets and costumes (but that helps) but a decent script and acting. I actually put Emily In Paris in this category, and same with Love Story — don’t hate me — and enjoy them all. Rivals is the next in this line-up.

Season 1 came out when I was in a newborn delirium so I barely could remember what happened, not that that matters as you can still enter season 2 blind.

It was commissioned by British Lee Mason (previously at Channel 4) which I was surprised about — there’s a slickness to it that seems very unBritish and a very nostalgic, rose-tinted glasses view of the Cotswolds in the ‘80s. (Note: I am happy with this rose-tinted view.) Beneath its fizzy tales of unrequited loves and a lot of Jilly Cooper-esque sex scenes, there are genuinely heartfelt moments like when Monica and Lizzie discuss what it means to be a good wife with not-so-good husbands, and really tender moments of family, friendship and community. The series is backdropped to rival television networks, and the ongoing tension between high-brow content vs low-brow is an apt analogy to what’s happening with the series itself — it toes the line, just, which makes it even more enjoyable. It’s campy, it’s high budget, it’s fun but you don’t feel entirely stupid after watching it (relatively).

I’m going to the Cotswolds for a wedding soon and while I am not expecting my experience to be anything like Rivals, it is getting my excited for my upcoming trip.

I’ve been writing this newsletter for five years, and I realised recently that I’ve been making assumptions about who’s reading it.

So I’d like to ask you, instead.

As to what it’s for: more considered content, how to connect with the community more directly, deeper intelligence product. And I want to build it around who you actually are, not who I’m imagining you to be. be.

It’s 15 questions and takes about five minutes. If you are able to respond, I would be infinitely grateful.

Everyone who responds will get a dedicated edition sharing back what I find — I’m genuinely curious what this readership looks like in aggregate, and I think you might be as well.

If you’re interested, here’s a link for the survey in the button below.

Let's talk about you

Screen Tests: Noura Sakkijha, CEO and founder of Mejuri

ZW: The Mejuri formula sounds simple enough. Accessibly priced for fine or demi fine. But it’s easier said than done. How do you do it?

Noura: The things we define as value are literally the intersection of what you said — amazing design, great quality, working with the best manufacturers, at accessible pricing. It’s not the cheapest. We also say, “Buy yourself the damn diamond.” Having those values as a North Star has always been important, but the word is consistency.

You’re going to make mistakes every now and then, but holding yourself accountable to consistency over time — and across channels — is really, really important. And sometimes being able to say no is really important. Not every opportunity is something you should take. You have to know what you are and what you’re not, and be super protective of the brand.

ZW: When we were chatting earlier, you mentioned that you are across every product. Does this mean you are the final sign-off?

Noura: On products, from the beginning, every single product — I work with the team on it. We have amazing designers, I can’t take credit for that, but I do approve every single design.

Recently, I’ve made a decision to spend a disproportionate amount of my time on brand and product. I read almost all emails [newsletters to the customer] with the team now. I want to make sure the tone of voice comes through consistently.

I describe Mejuri as the customer’s friend who knows more about jewellery. Our tone of voice is conversational, witty yet elegant. I want to make sure that level of consistency is protected.

ZW: You mentioned a conversation with your CEO coach that stuck with you. What were the key things?

Noura: The most important things: first, be very protective of your core iconic products. Make sure you shed light on them consistently, and protect them from promotions. Hold them on a pedestal.

The other thing is that a brand is about building a dream. You always have to be building a dream with your product line. Even if we have a range all the way from sub-$100 to $5,000 products — even if you sell most of your products under $300 — you cannot neglect building the dream with your higher-end products. Those products build a dream, build a universe, and everybody aspires to get there. Thinking of a brand as a universe, thinking about how you build a dream for the customer — that feels really important.

ZW: We were talking earlier about how a lot of direct-to-consumer brands are now facing a lot of upheavals. I’m thinking of Everlane how they sold to Shein, and Allbirds. What do you think of that?

Noura: I empathise a lot with some of these businesses, knowing that circumstances can be really tough and they can pile up. Retail is hard, and the environment we’re dealing with right now — with the lowest consumer sentiment — is hard. Hindsight is 20/20. Sometimes I try to say I should have made better decisions, but you make the best decisions with the data points you have. I have a huge amount of empathy for operators who are in tough positions.

For the longest time the market valued companies on growth, up until 2022 when valuations shifted from growth to bottom line. For a company to re-engineer its value add to stakeholders — that’s not easy for everybody, especially when all these conditions are being thrown at you simultaneously. My advice is: focus on the health of financials, but also be super disciplined about brand and product. Don’t let go of that.

ZW: What’s something you’ve changed your mind about recently?

Noura: I’ve changed my mind about a lot of things. I’m very decisive — I’m ready to make decisions with 80% of the information, unless it’s a very, very big decision. I’ve always been action-oriented. I don’t believe in extravagant strategies and execution plans. I believe in having good enough ideas and going to execute, and learning as you go — because things on paper versus things in practice are completely different. Not everybody likes that, but that’s my belief.

I surround myself with more detail-oriented people because I know I can move fast, but I need somebody to watch out. My partner is super detail-oriented — the combination is really important. When you find partners, you have to really complement each other.

One thing I wish I had thought more about earlier: organisational structure. What gives you the right effectiveness but also agility — because the market is changing all the time. It’s not as easy as you’d think, and you really understand the importance of it when you go through shocks like what’s happening now. Is this the right work structure? Am I positioned in the right way? That’s one that comes to mind.

ZW: You have an MBA. But, do you think people still need MBAs?

Noura: No. Unpopular opinion. But education is so important — whether you learn by yourself or go to school, it’s whatever works for you. For me, I need discipline to learn, so I need to go to school. But if you can do it on your own, by all means. Education teaches you ways of thinking. It’s not a guarantee of success, it’s not the key. But the connections you create when you go to school — you can’t replace that. That’s the thing you miss if you’re self-taught: you don’t go and interact and meet and network.

SHOP:

Eckhaus Latta has collaborated with Mango. My picks are this layered skirt and the matching shirt. But the more I look at it, the more I find I like: these neoprene sandals.

I got a set of Autumn Sonato towels a while ago and everytime I use it, I think how impressed I’ve been and how I need to tell someone about it. I usually like a very thick pile, but surprisingly while this is a thinner pile, it makes up in density so it feels very lush — almost like velvet. I got the Agmes set which is the print above (bath towel, hand towels, bath mat) which has since sold out. It’s also stocked at Pan After in Melbourne and Oliver Thom in Sydney. Do I need the bathrobe now? This is dangerous.

I know I need another cape item like I need a hole in the head which is why I’m suggesting this cape knit from Toteme, on sale, for YOU.

If like me, you’ve been searching for a pair of perfect loafers, I think I’m going to solve your problem.

These straddle between being a shoe with volume without considered as being chunky. And, I truly cannot overstate how comfortable these loafers are. Yes, they are very similar to the ones from The Row but, well, for much less. It’s from Bared, a brand founded by a podiatrist and honestly, my feet feel so supported.

I went to the Ralph Lauren polo day and wore these sunglasses by Hyesun, an Australian-based brand that designs sunglasses especially for Asian faces: read, wider, less of a nose bridge. I’m wearing these ones.

I go through so much handwash in my household (children, lots of cooking) and usually just replace accordingly from handwash that I stockpile that have come through as gifts without much thought. Until this one. Honestly, I look forward to washing my hands so I can use the Baina handwash.

That jacket is back in stock. You know the one. I’ve heard size down if in-between sizes. I’ve noticed a fake one that has come up on Depop — they do point out it's a dupe, and the quality looks suspect, so do not buy the Aliexpress version even if it comes up on your Google search results.

• It has to be in good condition. Light marks don’t scare me — I have DIY laundry tricks and drycleaners I trust. But I’m not in the business of restoration projects.

• Check the label for licensing. This one catches people out. A lot of what gets sold as “designer vintage” — particularly with YSL and Dior — is actually a licensed product made by a third party. Not necessarily bad quality, but worth knowing before you spend.

• Don’t buy something you could find anywhere. A plain black blazer with a designer label is not a find unless it’s truly expertly cut or the fabric is stunning. What I’m looking for is actual design — something that couldn’t have been made by anyone else, in any other era.

Each of these items in the edit have been sitting in my own wishlist.

There is a tight price limit to show how accessible designer really can be.

I’ve selected them because they’re very indicative of the designer — they have that design prowess — and, while they are in conversation with what’s happening in fashion now, they transcend trends. It also gives an indicator of what I’ve got on my saved search terms lately and what I think will be growing in popularity. Ahem, Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent era.

Enjoy.

Behind the paywall: a sequinned Giorgio Armani jacket that I might buy myself, fashion gamechangers from Marni and Altuzarra, YSL by Tom Ford (and a Tom Ford gown that’s AU$200) and more.

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Everyone is trying to have an original point of view.

Or as I often test in my own mind as the inverse: no one is saying they want to be an imitator. Each brand book says “Be authentic”. But no brand — or person — wants to be inauthentic.

There's too much debate now about taste versus style, whether it's learnt or innate, whether being discerning is the…

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So,…

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For fashion girls, it’s a note of pride to claim to not wear any makeup. To insist that you were born …

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Recently, at a local grocery store, I was wearing a Deering T-shirt. A woman approached me to ask about the sizing — she’d seen it online. Nearby, someone else clocked me, and I, her. She was in a Maggie Marilyn windbreaker, the same one a neighbour had just bought. We all had our children with us. We were on the same internet. We had the same postcode. There is a consistency here.

To give credit where credit is due: did this for New York neighbourhoods and Paris ones, and of course ’s viral ‘how to dress like a Brooklyn mom’. This is my take of the Sydney version.

The suburbs here are not geographically far from each other, but each one is a distinctive village. I will argue that Lavender Bay is distinctive to Mosman, and Woollahra is distinctive to Double Bay. At certain playgrounds, you can see the same pram brand lined up in seasonal colours. There is an unofficial jeweller, an interior designer, a bakery, a facialist, passed from each person. It’s the small details that give it away — and we’re all reading and signalling.

*This is all fictionalised. If you recognise yourself in any of the below, that is purely, and entirely by coincidence.

Surry Hills

She did two years in London and is now back in Sydney where she runs her own agency/studio/creative practice (you’re still not quite sure what she does?). There’s definitely some sort of polished poured concrete situation in her home. Her kid’s Goldie & Ace sweatshirt set cost more than her first paycheque when she worked at Purple Sneakers. Their non-negotiable is Bourke St Bakery chocolate milk; hers is Bar Copains where she never has to make a reservation because they keep the window bar seat for her. Coffee is from somewhere with no signage. She buys gifts from Dinosaur Designs (cheese knives, keyrings, platters) and still drives to Harris Farm on Cleveland Street even though she can easily walk there. She’s incredulous that the mini trolleys were stolen from the same Coles complex. Occasionally, she considers moving to Melbourne. She is on two waiting lists: one for a ceramics class, one for a school with a vegetable garden.

Blanca windbreaker

Blanca skirt

Maggie Marilyn socks

Staud handbag

Erede ring stack

Friends With Frank red cardigan

Scarosso sneakers

Background painting: The Golden Egg, 2023, by Beatriz Milhazes

She lives in Woollahra, Sydney

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