An hour on I-90 and I land in Coeur d’ Alene. It’s been 15 years since I last visited and I can safely say the town has grown up. New multi-story buildings and a revamped waterfront round out the changes. This pretty town sits right on the lake and takes full advantage of its beauty. We walked the waterfront. Pete did his grass roll - several times - and we meandered down Main Street. We sat outside in the sun, ate lunch and watched the world go by. It was glorious.

We move on to Spokane since, as a testament to CDA’s popularity, I couldn’t find a rental for the night. We walk the Centennial Trail and the Riverfront. I meet a family friend for happy hour in the the Kendall Yards neighborhood. It’s easy to see why this spot is popular because there is a great view of the city, a section of the Centennial Trail and new homes in the area.

Before leaving Spokane, I visit Manito Park to walk Pete before sitting in the car for hours. This park has a lake, lilac garden, rose garden and old growth trees. 90 acres and in existence since 1904, it sits in a beautiful neighborhood. Lots of people were walking on a Tuesday morning and it was a great way to start the day. Public areas say a lot about a community and Spokane really shines with the Riverfront, Centennial Trail and Manito Park. I’m sure other green spaces exist in this bustling city.

I drive to Kennewick to visit a former boss/friend. The drive was a monotonous two hours because there really isn’t much to see. I meet up with my friend and we take Pete back to his house to play with his dog, Lola. Pete loved the new smells and since the backyard was not fenced Pete roamed into several neighbors’ yards. We locked the dogs back in the house and headed to dinner. We talked for hours and 2007 felt like yesterday. It was a beautiful evening. Part of the focus of my nomadic adventure is to reconnect with friends from the past. I let them know why they are important to me and I love how they might remember a detail or two that I have long forgotten.

The next two days I will explore Walla Walla. It’s an easy hour drive from Kennewick. I visited Walla Walla five years ago and enjoyed the beautiful wineries and excellent food in the downtown area. Whitman College is a lovely campus and Pete and I will roam for a few days before we land in Portland next week to spend time with Pearl.

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Gnarly traffic declares that Billings has grown. Locals tell me that COVID brought people here and they stayed. I meet with a friend but mostly spend my days with to-dos. Car maintenance, Pete maintenance and a few project calls. It’s been an interesting few months…typically quiet but suddenly I have three small projects.

With Pete’s curls coiffed, we move to Bozeman. The last time I visited, Bozeman was a sleepy mountain town but is now much more sophisticated. Condos and upscale malls rise from once empty space. What hasn’t changed is its beauty as it sits in the Gallatin Valley with several snowcapped mountain ranges in the distance and green rolling hills nearby. I suspect this beauty drew people in and then leaving became unthinkable. I spend the day with friends just catching up. We share a meal and then Pete and I head to our hotel for the night.

We hit the road early and drive five hours past Butte and Missoula. Sloping hills and pitch-black rivers line the road. Nature coupled with nothingness can be quite striking. We are focused on Polson - a small town on Flathead Lake. Once we are on I-93 and past the typical commercial sprawl we are flanked on our right side with the Mission Mountains. They line the distance like a wall - a very majestic, jagged border. When only a few miles remain until I arrive in Polson, the lake announces itself - suddenly - and it’s big (much larger than I imagined).

We walk a portion of the lakefront with its pebble beach and wander to the small downtown. It’s pretty quiet for a Saturday. On our walk back to the hotel I see a sign for a cheese monger and decide to investigate. Flathead Lake Cheese handmakes several varieties using solar power, at that! The owner was a wealth of information and the cheese was tasty!

I drive around the lake and its enormity screams at me. The lakeshore is filled with homes and cherry orchards. Yes, cherries! Roadside stands dot the paved path. The farmland is lush and then mountains frame the east.

Glacier National Park’s entrance is one and a half hours north from Flathead Lake. This is my sixth national park visit since I began my yearlong adventure and it’s been on my list for a while. The temperature in the park is only expected to be in the 40’s. I read that the weather can turn quickly in this park and it’s certainly proven to be true. I arrive and it’s wet and foggy, similar to the Pacific Northwest.

The rain is not the gentle-on-my-face-sprinkles-kind but instead an all-out downpour. The rain is needed, though, as every river I drive by exposes its riverbed rocks with scarcely any water covering the multi-colored pebbles. Lake McDonald is large and sets the stage for what’s to reveal itself, although, I feel a little cheated from spotting the park’s splendor. Instead of seeing dramatic peaks and valleys, I behold fog. Signature views are impossible to witness. The white-knuckle experience of Going-to-the-Sun Road is even scarier with the fog and wet roads. Ascending the road is truly death defying as I hug the edge of the outer road. My return essentially has me kissing the granite wall as I descend. Once is enough for me. I did it and never have to do it again!

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Queen-Sized Sheet. I place it over the hotel bedding (which is often white) so that I don’t have to worry about what Pete tracks it. This has lowered my stress about leaving a room a mess.

Carbon Monoxide Detector. Every hotel and short-term rental has fire detectors but very few have monoxide detectors. I found a simple one that works great and adds another layer of safety to my travels.

Multi-Plug Power Strip. Most hotels do not have enough plugs for my devices including my phone, watch, ipad and computer. This power strip has solved this problem!

Badlands Dog Food. Most know that Pete is a picky eater. But, not with this food! Yes, it is pricey but I’ve never seen Pete crave any other dog food I have purchased like this one.

Phone Screen Protecter. I use my phone constantly while on the road - which means I drop it a lot. This screen protector was easy to put on and came with all the extras to get it on straight and cleanly.

Snacks. I love the Larabars. Yes it is essentially similar to a candy bar but with a little less guilt. Nuts also pack a protein punch. I really try to not have junk food around or in the car.

Portable Charger. My phone battery just doesn’t last or maybe I am just on it too much.

Eye Masks. I am in a different bed every few nights. These help me fall asleep.

Resuable Cutlery. The less plastic I use, the happier I am.

I also carry several gallons of water in the car, thanks to a suggestion of a friend.

Needless to say my AAA Membership, Trusted Housesitters subscription and my America the Beautiful National Park Pass are invaluable to my travels, too.

I am on the lookout for a soft-sided cooler (which I should have bought a year ago). If you have one you can recommend, let me know!

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I decided on a whim to visit North Dakota to see the Theodore Roosevelt National Park and walk the outside of the new Theodore Roosevelt Presidential Library (no dogs allowed inside). The drive north is about three and a half hours and was punctuated with large rolling plains, farmland and cattle - in other words similar to South Dakota.

Medora is the ideal town to stay when visiting the NP, but a local musical means the few hotels available are sold out. So, I stay about 35 miles away. My hotel room was not ready so I looked up the closest dog park and drove directly there. Pete romped with some fun dogs and I met a local university student studying to be a doctor. He is already a nurse and decided to go to medical school. He was impressive.

I’m up at four a.m. to get an early start on the day. National Park visits are much more enjoyable for Pete and me during the cooler mornings. I stopped in the Painted Canyon Visitor Center first to see the panoramic view of the Badlands and then headed to the Medora entrance. It worked out great because by the time we arrived at the park, it was still uncrowded and the wildlife was out.

Within minutes we landed on a bison herd - most of them the size of small cars. And a short drive down the loop stood a band of wild horses. They were eating calmly and looked up at me while I walked down the path closer to them. The grey horses were magical hues I’ve never seen before . I pulled out numerous times to take in the breathtaking scenery on the 36-mile loop. I loved the variety of the area and the colorful hues of the Badlands. I also saw coyotes and fast-moving prairie dogs (holes were everywhere!). Behind the South Unit Visitor Center sits Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross cabin, which was moved from its original location and restored.

After visiting the park, I drive to the newly opened (July 2026) Theodore Roosevelt Presidential Library. It is architecturally magnificent. It’s designed low to the ground and appears to magically rise from the prairie into the endless blue sky. I walked the boardwalk that surrounds the property and the roof garden overflowing with medicinal plants. The building is truly stunning with its wood beams and vistas out to the Badlands and rugged buttes. Through the large glass windows I noticed the inside was just as beautiful and I am glad I was able to walk the grounds.

Tomorrow I head to Billings, MT. It’s a five and a half hour drive. I used to travel to Billings monthly and I look forward to seeing it again. I’ll stay for four nights and get some car maintence completed, as well as, Pete groomed so that he will be a little cooler in the heat. Montana will be my 25th state visited and I only have five remaining states that I have never toured - Nebraska, Kansas, Wisconsin, West Virginia and Arkansas.

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The walkway leading to the sculpture is lined with flags and plaques with each state represented and the date they joined the union. I walked the Presidential Trail, which includes 438 steps, to get a little closer view. I visited the Sculptor’s Studio to see the model that was created before the work on the mountain began. Finally, I sat on a bench in front of the sculpture and just looked at it.

It is a massive sculpture carved into Mount Rushmore. Over 450,000 tons of rock was removed to make the faces. 90% was removed with dynamite and the rest with jackhammers and drilling. Small drills and compressors were engaged for the finishing work. Completed in 1941 under the direction of Gutzon Borglum and his son Lincoln, the sculpture's 60-ft.-high granite faces depict U.S. presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. It’s fun to see American history in real-life.

Afterwards, I drove three miles to Hill City, another western town with less than a 1,000 inhabitants, seemingly staying afloat for the tourists. I do love a small mountain town. We walked around and then called it a day.

I planned to spend the afternoon in Deadwood since it’s on the National Historic Register. What I did not realize is the annual car show in Deadwood this weekend. Traffic and parking were snarled so I did a drive through and kept going. The temperature was 91 degrees and Pete was suffering. I enjoy the lack of humidity but hot is hot.

I landed in Spearfish for the next two nights. It’s another small, western adventure town. I found a dog park and let Pete play. I met a woman named Edie. She is from Spearfish but drove her RV around the country for the last two years. She just sold the RV and is planning on hitting the road again using her car and tent, instead. She said winters here are brutal and she wants warmer climes during the winter. She hugged me as we left the dog park.

We drove the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway which gave me 19 miles of stunning views. The drive offered towering limestone cliffs, creeks, waterfalls and even mountain goats along the roadside. Pete and I hiked to a waterfall, which was just beautiful.

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I land in Mitchell, SD for the night. There’s not much here except the Corn Palace. I have to admit, it is pretty amazing to see the mosaics made completely with corn!

On my drive to Wall, SD I stop at the Chamberlain rest area to see the statue Dignity - Of Sky and Earth. It is 50 feet tall and overlooks the Missouri River. It honors the culture and resilience of the Lakota and Dakota people. It’s all stainless steel and impressive.

The drive is gorgeous. The sky is multi-shades of blue and the clouds are puffy and streak through the sky. It’s flat until after Chamberlain where these gentle, little green mounds (baby hills) litter the area. There are miles and miles of sunflower fields since South Dakota is a major producer of the crop. The drive tells me that South Dakota must be the king of kitschy, though. Signs for Wall Drug, a six-ton prairie dog and old fire trucks advertising the Firehouse Brewery follow my path. The town of 1880 is like a movie set with animals including a camel - I drive right on by.

Of course, the queen of kitschy is Wall Drugstore. It takes up an entire block of the town. Wall, SD has a population of 699! The store is filled with crap but people seem to enjoy buying it.

Instead, I head to Badlands National Park. It leaves me breathless. I actually drive the 39 mile loop twice (from each direction so that I can see it from both vantage points).

Custer is 65 miles away and my priority is to get my South Dakota drivers license. The DMV in Custer is only open on the first three Wednesdays of each month. Fortunately, I made it to the DMV and was issued my new SD drivers license in about 30 minutes! This is a huge relief as my Oregon license expires in December and this is my chance to obtain a license since South Dakota recognizes me as a resident after a one-night stay in a hotel and securing a virtual mailbox in the state. Frankly, I thought this was too good to be true and stressed about it for months. But it is true. The employee at the DMV told me that over 20,000 people use South Dakota for this service.

Once the DMV was complete I headed to Custer State Park. I drove the Wildlife Loop Road and was not disappointed. Almost immediately after entering the park, I ran into a herd of bison. They have no problem crossing the road right in front of the cars and will graze next to the cars. I could touch them at times but did not. Pete was very curious. Later in the drive I saw three Pronghorns in the distance. Part of the park is prairie while the other area is more evergreens with rock formations.

Next I drove to the Sylvan Lakeshore Trail. This lake is surrounded by unique rock formations. We hiked this easy trail and Pete received lots of attention. We navigated to Custer - a town of 1919 inhabitants, ate lunch, hiked the Custer Skywalk for an expansive view of the town and then checked into the hotel.

I close out my day driving Needles Highway including Needles Eye Tunnel. Granite spires line the highway and a tunnel that is eight feet wide and nine feet tall is part of the drive. Only one car at a time and it can be driven either direction. So, needless to say a little scary - but I did it!

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I never considered visiting Iowa prior to this adventure. It’s fun to look at a map and consider any and all locations. It’s even better when there’s reason to visit a place. I met my Iowan friend in grad school in Portland. She relocated to Iowa over twenty years ago and we maintained our friendship through the years.

Pete and I landed in Decorah and immediately walked the charming Main Street. At the end of Main Street sits the celebrated Vesterheim Museum. Norwegian influences are everywhere in this historic town. The grounds of the museum were gorgeous but the inside of the museum is off limits because of Pete.

The friendliness is palpable in this small town. Everyone says hello, people stop and talk to each other and everyone’s name is used in conversation. While I was eating lunch, a fellow was inviting folks to his DJ event on Saturday night. I decided I might go.

Thursdays are Lawn Chair Night Music Series and so I met my friends for an hour of music and food. It truly is small town life at it’s finest! Afterwards my friend and I went to Dunning Falls, a 200 foot falls minutes from downtown. There was a mist over the water from when the cold water of the falls hits the warm, muggy air.

The next morning we headed to the Decorah Community and Butterfly Garden. This prairie was colorful and laden with all sorts of plants that attract butterflies. The community garden was overflowing with produce and flowers. Pete ran offleash like a maniac.

We drove to the Bily Clock Museum 20 minutes away from Decorah. This quirky museum was fascinating. The clocks are a testament to artisan craftsmanship and the detail and size are striking. What is even more amazing is that the two brothers that carved these clocks had no formal training in woodworking. It shows me how passion can carry a person way beyond their intial limits. It is one of the most unique museums I’ve visited.

Up next was Phelps Park. We walked along the unique stone wall and into the lush, green valley for a pleasant (albeit muggy) two mile hike. The park sits at the end of a historic neighborhood with gorgeous Victorian and Prarie homes.

Luna Family Farm for dinner ended the day. Delicious wood-fired pizza surrounded by a beautiful farm was a great combination for a wonderful Midwest evening.

The next morning I met four women that are part of my friend’s local friend group. It was so wonderful to make new connections, hear about their various lives and share what I am doing. We then walked to the farmers’ market. It’s a small market but offers everything one could want for produce and baked goods.

We wandered to the Seed Savers Exchange tomato tasting event. There is nothing more exciting that a fresh, summer-grown, sunkissed tomato so this event was on the top of my list. It’s a gorgeous farm and I love the concept of sharing and cultivating seeds. The farm store has all the seeds for sale plus other useful gardening items. There is an evaluation garden for testing out seeds and an overflowing flower garden. We also visited some very unique white cows with beautiful black noses and horns (even though they are female).

Saturday night is a disco dance party - Iowa-style and it was fun. We danced and the DJ advertising his wares earlier in the week, knew his stuff! I spend so much time on the road alone so these last few days around so many people have been a gift. Decorah and my friend’s generosity will carry me through the next segment of my adventures.

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I woke up to thunderstorms and lightening. My newfound friend from the dog park invited me to a sendoff breakfast and I decided I would take full advantage of this wonderful chance meeting. The more I travel the larger my heart gets.

After breakfast, the sky cleared up and I headed three hours west to the town of St. Joseph. It was the perfect place to stop and walk. It’s another charming town on Lake Michigan with cobblestone streets, souvenir shops galore and a crowded Silver Beach. We walked to the beach first and Pete rolled in the sand. We returned to Main Street to visit the stores and then walked the park along the bluff. To Pete’s delight, many stores provide water bowls and treats in their entryways. I think Pete is really getting the hang of this travel and shopping thing.

We returned to the car and drove thirty minutes into Indiana and landed in South Bend (the home of University of Notre Dame). Pete and I walked the beautiful campus. It’s very hot and humid so Pete needed a couple grass rolls to cool down. My skin glistened with sweat - the humidity is so much more challenging than just the hot summer air. We drove to the riverwalk on the St. Joseph River and meandered the downtown area. South Bend is a cute town.

The next morning, I awoke to rain and thunder again. We hit the road and I noticed that in Indiana rest areas are called Travel Plazas and there are not enough of them! And Illinois has no rest stops either but plenty of tolls. At least six tolls will arrive in the mail shortly.

About two hours into my drive, my phone announced that I was headed into a severe thunderstorm. There was no doubt this was true because the sky was as black as the night. It was dark and the downpour forced me to pull over for an hour.

Once through the storm, the sun came out and Illinois showered me with gentle rolling hills with variations of the color green similar to an artist’s palette. We arrived in Galena a few hours later than planned but the time changed somewhere during my drive, so I gained an hour!

Downtown Galena is a six-block district of red brick buildings from the 19th century, many listed on the National Register. The town is named after the mineral galena and began as a bustling river port and lead mining hub in the early 1800’s. Ulysses S. Grant’s home is here. In 1865 the town’s citizens gave him the home in appreciation of his Civil War efforts. I feel the history just by walking the tourist-filled streets.

We meandered over the Galena River footbridge and into the stunning Grant Park. It’s filled with flowers, statues, fountains, cannons and a panoramic view of Galena across the way. We then drove ten minutes to the Horseshoe Mound Preserve for breathtaking views of the Driftless Region including Iowa, Wisconsin, the Mississippi River and Galena.

13 miles away is the Iowa border and the town of Dubuque. Dubuque sits on the Mississippi River (essentially where Iowa, Wisonsin and Illinois meet) and is Iowa’s oldest town. There is a fun event happening close by where the Field of Dreams movie was filmed! We walked the Mississippi Riverwalk and explored downtown. I drove two hours to Decorah through fences of cornfields that guard the edges of the highway. I’ll explore the area for the next five days.

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Getting lost can cause fear and panic. But it can also lead to newfound experiences and joy. I will never forget getting lost in Portugal. I wandered to the middle of the country, after visiting the Douro Valley, when my internet dropped on my phone - and silly me, I did not download the map beforehand (a travel lesson learned). Signs were of no use because I could not read Portuguese and I didn’t even know what I was looking for anyways.

I landed in a village that was a dream. Beautiful, lush floral gardens, a well-preserved castle and a lively town square. I found a hotel for 30 Euros (including breakfast) and decided to explore. Instead of being stressed that I had no idea where I was and didn’t know how to get to the town I was actually looking for, I gave in. I relented to the lack of control.

Acceptance.

Belief that it will all work out.

The little town (Castelo de Vide) ended up being one of my favorite spots in Portugal. And there’s a lot to love about Portugal. Fast forward several years and I allow myself to get lost again - but at least I speak the language!

A year ago, I let go to see what blowing up things could do. I walked out of my home for the very last time and spent seven weeks as a nomad in Portland. It was not intentional but the home sale happened faster than anticipated. And, in retrospect, it was a great trial run in a very controlled environment. I still saw my friends, knew the streets and had time to say my good-byes to some favorite places.

Since then, I’ve wandered 21 different states and a snippet of Canada. I’ve met amazing people, reconnected with past friends and family, and created new friendships. I’ve seen so much beauty - natural and manmade. I’ve been surprised, humbled and educated. I could not have guessed how much I would experience in a year of risk and chance and ultimately, belief in myself.

For someone who likes to plan, I’ve essentially operated most of the year without one. That’s a huge accomplishment for me. I also like to be busy all the time and I’ve managed to get comfortable with some downtime, although I readily admit I still need to work on this.

How long will I continue to do this? I do not know. The truth is that this lifestyle is very hard - difficult to maintain for a variety of reasons. I miss my kids. I miss my friends. I’d like to return to working out regularly. Traveling with a dog comes with its own complexities (and benefits). I lost another friend to cancer a month ago - which reminds me, once again, time is limited. I believe this next phase should be punctuated with longer stays instead of the two- and three-day versions I have mostly done this year. Month long stays allow me to build routines and unpack and pack a lot less! It’s been fulfilling to see so many different places but it is draining at the same time.

Whatever I decide, I will forever cherish the bet I took on myself to wander the unknown path.

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A recent conversation at the Lafayette dog park made me think more about being a nomad. A fellow dog owner asked me a thoughtful question based on the premise of the artist, Tehching Hsieh, who wandered New York City for a year with the pronouncement that he could not enter any covered spaces for 365 days. He photographed this journey. My newfound friend asked me how I thought about my nomadic journey in this unique way.

First, I love chance meetings.

Second, I love thoughtful questions.

Our conversation rambled and landed on one of her friends preparing to walk the El Camino. This wonderful cacophony of ideas led me to realize that nomadic travel is similar to walking the epic journey of El Camino de Santiago. Now, I have not walked the El Camino but I have witnessed friends accomplish this feat. For a period of time, I even considered doing it myself and researched what it would take.

I believe life on the road (El Camino or otherwise) is distilled down to the basics.

• Where am I going to eat?

• Where am I going to sleep?

• Do I have the right shoes for exploring?

• What’s the next place I’m going?

And although not likely as physically exhausting as walking El Camino, my nomadic adventure is an analogous journey of discovery, history and meaning.

Discovery. The last year has been full of discovery for me. Revelations about myself and what I am capable of doing. Realizations of the beautiful country I live in. And innovations on traveling more enjoyably, efficiently and choosing the unhurried roads when possible.

History. I’ve made a point of visiting historical sites, museums and old towns. History teaches us so much about the present and the future from the lens of the past. Each person I meet on the road has a background that informs their worldview and it fascinates me to hear people’s stories and perspectives. I have learned so much. Also, seeing my uncle after forty years gave me insight into my own family history - what I have carried around, believed and the weight of the word family.

Meaning. It might be obvious that I have gained an incomparable amount of meaning on my journey. One person recently asked, Were you unhappy in Portland? You seem like a pretty happy person. The catalyst for my adventure was not unhappiness, distaste or dissatisfaction. I truly had a wonderful life full of friends, volunteering and outdoor activities. My need to wander was based on my desire to learn, grow, stretch and experience change. Life gets comfortable and auto pilot sets in. With the deaths of several close friends, I needed to explore and maximize the time I still have. Too often people get stuck in their own heads. I decided to ensure that did not happen to me. Discomfort is to be met head on not hidden in a dark closet easily avoided.

Tomorrow I set off for Iowa, Nebraska and South Dakota. It will be lots of driving - which I learned I can do. These are three states I never considered visiting previously and I cannot wait to be immersed in more discovery, history and meaning.

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I’ve been on the road for a year now and I’ve noticed a trend. It’s a pattern that makes it more difficult for all of us. Like many disruptive ideas, they aim to solve a problem but as the offering becomes more popular things seem to get skewed.

I think back to the beginnings of Uber, for example. I remember the novelty of being able to schedule my pickup time, the driver actually showing up and the fare was a paltry $12 to go to the airport! Fast forward several years and finding a fare less than $32 is impossible. A driver will cancel the fare if a better passenger comes along and who knows if they will actually be on time. So, originally it was a great idea but as things evolved (not for the better) the service became skewed.

Similar with Airbnb’s. It began as a great way for homeowners to create some income and as a traveler I typically gained more space, more privacy and even a washing machine for a better nightly rate than a hotel. Fast forward to today, and listings are less than truthful and Airbnb hosts pressure the guest to give them a five-star review.

In Oklahoma, I had an owner offer me $200 if I wrote a favorable review. (I wrote the truth – not so favorable). I recently stayed in an Airbnb that was basically a tenement with a slum lord. He also pressured me to give him five stars as his “business” was dependent on favorable reviews. I wrote the truth as positively as I could.

Trying to get a hold of Airbnb customer service is an act of God. If there is a problem with your stay, arm up because you are on your own to solve it. So what are those “service fees” actually for, if when the guest requires service Airbnb is impossible to track down?!

And fast forward to my current dog sit – because reviews happen on Trusted Housesitters, too. Nowhere did the owner or previous dog sitters disclose how difficult and poorly behaved the dogs I am watching are. We need each other to be truthful so that we can prepare for the challenges or even decide maybe this one’s not for me.

I recognize that someone else’s rating of five stars or an “A” could be my “C” or poor rating so there is a flaw in the system. But come on. First, I think Airbnb’s need to have a physical visit that is required for each listing. How do they get away with not actually verifying a space but instead allowing the community of guests to do that for them? Service fees have increased so shouldn’t it be a part of the service that ensures I am getting what I am paying for? And how do the algorithms work because pricing seems to be very skewed from one stay to the next - meaning a high rate does not necessarily mean it’s a great place.

Hotels have the same problem. Although I find that guests are a bit more honest on a site they might not visit again like Expedia or Booking.com. I have also noticed that hotels still owned by the hotel chain versus being a franchise offer a vastly different experience. I would think brands would want to protect their name rather than allow a francisce to control the experience and therefore any future stays a guest might or might not book because of the current stay.

As a traveler, I rely on ratings. And often when I review the ratings after I have stayed somewhere, I see the blatant misrepresentations. Sometimes, owners respond and actually address the critique. Often, though, we as the guest are left holding the bag. So, if we all rate and review honestly, from a place of constructive feedback rather than angriness or nastiness, we will all have better experiences when we travel. I rely on ratings and reviews and have stayed in some great and not-so-great places and I review accordingly.

If Airbnb is not going to do the legwork, then we as travelers have to band together and hold these properties accountable for where they deliver and where they fall short. I have begun to seek out hotels (booked on the company site), first and then as a second choice, look to the short term rental market. If a place is a three-star so be it. I, as the traveler, can decide if I want to stay at a three-star property. Just don’t tell me it’s a five-star and I arrive and it’s far from great.

If you need a referral for Royal Oak, Michigan or Kingsville, Ontario I have some great recommendations for accommodations and hosts that set the bar high. Afterall, when did giving honest ratings become a rarity instead of a way to help travelers and hosts discern what works and what doesn’t?

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To learn a city’s vibe, visit the dog park. Like immediately. I make it a practice to find the dog park in any city I wander. It’s a great way to meet people and learn what’s happening in a particular city. The gravitational pull of a dog is undeniable.

Case in point - my first stop on my yearlong journey was San Francisco. Just by chance, my short-term rental was two blocks from the very popular Francisco Park. Canines reined in this active, turf-rich dog park. My visit at any time of the day rewarded me with a cadre of characters - dog walkers the most common but really a varied cross section of the city’s residents. I quickly learned where to visit, what restaurants were hot and why all those military planes fly in the sky.

Atlanta was another city rich in dog parks with water fountains, dog toys and obstacle courses just for the dogs! Wide open spaces and plentiful water stations proved Greenville loved dogs. Most rest stops take dogs’ needs into consideration with a defined area to run and play. I even found a gas station in Kentucky that offered a fenced area to roam - just for dogs!

My recent landing in Detroit (for the third time) for a dog sit gave me a few hours to kill before the gig started. I headed to the dog park in Layfette Park. I hit the jackpot of information when other dog owners shared their favorite restaurants, Detroit history and things not to be missed. I also received validation that my yearlong journey was something to be relished and admired.

I find a dog park in every city I visit. Hours alone in the car or a hotel room means I need to find interaction and so does Pete. When I started traveling, I did not realize how important dog parks would be in my journey (and Pete’s). The consummate dog park allows both of us to connect and learn (or smell) our surroundings.

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Yesterday, the park was filled with five- and six-year-olds chasing soccer balls in organized chaos while the coaches tried to direct traffic. Parents on the sidelines watched their phones and pretend to show interest. Today is Sunday morning and we have the park to ourselves.

Beau is tireless in his pursuit of the orange ball, while Dylan holds onto Beau’s leash and is thrust along due to her tight grip. Pete watches on the sidelines and after one too many throws Pete decides to steal the ball. Game over.

Today’s prediction is 100% rain so I check out two museums I did not see during my last visit to Detroit in June. First is the Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History. The museum starts with African history and moves in a circular fashion beginning with the slave ships where I walk through an immersive exhibit that feels like the inside of the ship where hundreds of slaves are housed. It is dark, creepy and powerful to see this life-sized depiction of human suffering. Exhibits continue following the timeline of freedom, segregation, how the church plays a role in African American communities and how industry and small businesses in Detroit provided opportunities for a better life during the Southern migration.

A stained-glass exhibit and Black women in the film industry round out the museum. The entry of the building is a massive rotunda which enlarges the space and gives it natural lighting. Although interesting, this museum did not have the wow factor like some of the other museums I have visited. I did enjoy the Detroit-slant to the story, though.

Across the street sits the renowned Detroit Institute of Arts. The star of this museum are the murals by Diego Rivera painted in 1932 and funded by Henry and Edsel Ford. The sheer size is awe-inspiring and the stories they depict are commentary of industry and labor in the time of the Great Depression. My pictures cannot begin to show the beauty and enormity of these murals.

I enjoyed the Modern art, the Dutch Golden Age and British sections, too. The museum houses in their permanent collection a famous Rembrandt, Picassos, Van Goghs and even a Georgia O’Keefe. The building itself is a massive 658,000 square feet with an impressive Beaux-Arts and Italian Renaissance design.

Pizza wars reign in Detroit so I tried Supino today. This rounds out the top three in the city (Buddy’s and Michigan & Trumball). I have liked each pizza and Supino’s cracker-like crust was unexpected since Buddy’s and Michigan & Trumball are the classic Detroit-style offering. Food has been very good in Detroit!

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Elora was founded in 1832 and is definitely one of the most charming places I’ve visited. Yes, the downtown (Mill Street) displays the quintessential shops and cafes, but what gives this town character is the 19th century limestone buildings. It’s easy to navigate from one end to the other and Pete and I did just that. We visited the Gorge area and wandered Victoria Park where views of the waterfall and river are easily accessed. We walked down to Lovers’ Leap and even Pete was curious what was over the edge.

The Elora Mill provides a spectacular view and the valet gave Pete a large dog biscuit. A jaunt over the Jack R. MacDonald bridge was required and who wouldn’t want to get another look at the Grand River, the Gorge and the historic Elora Mill?!

Thirty minutes away sits St. Jacobs, a Mennonite country town with a famous market on Thursdays. We visited on Monday and so had to be satisfied with a stroll down the small strip of shops, a visit to a bakery, a sit down lunch and watching the Mennonite horse-drawn carriages quickly pass us by.

Stratford makes me believe I left Canada and entered England. Although theatre takes center stage here, the town is also about gardens and walking paths along the Avon River. I visited the Shakespearean Gardens, Tom Patterson Island and Upper Queen’s Park. Pedestrian bridges crossed the river in multiple spots while geese and swans were enjoying the gardens, too. I browsed downtown shops and sat at a cafe for coffee and a pastry while Pete garnered tons of attention.

St. Mary’s sits twenty minutes south of Stratford and is set apart by its 19th century limestone buildings, the Thames River and the quarry. The downtown area is compact and quiet (with many stores closed on Tuesdays). We drove to the quarry which was bustling with kids swimming and all kinds of floating toys in the crystal clear water. We walked the Grand Trunk Trail and saw some folks fishing, too. I grabbed lunch at a cute cheese shop and just enjoyed the peaceful, little town.

Three hours through mainly rural farms leads me to Kingsville. Kingsville sits on Lake Erie and has a bustling Main Street with surprisingly numerous upscale restaurants. Kingsville is located about thirty minutes from Point Pelee, a national park that is the southernmost point of mainland Canada. There are several vineyards in the area, too.

Pete and I drive to Leamington, which is commercially much busier than Kingsville with 31,000 residents. About five miles from Leamington is the entrance to Point Pelee National Park. The park is large with a sanctuary, marshlands (with a boardwalk), trails, numerous beaches and a path to the tip that has an observation tower, as well as, a beach walk all the way to the end of the tip. An interesting side note is that the water on one side of the tip is colder than the other side and apparently the tip is getting shorter and shorter due to lake water levels. As expected it was beautiful but the biting flies were truly annoying to both Pete and me.

My Ontario exploration ends at Windsor. Pete and I walk the waterfront and view Detroit across the way. The walk includes Dieppe Gardens and Bert Weeks Memorial Gardens. Walkerville is close by so we visit this historical area including Willistead Manor and Park and then call it a day. We travel through the Detroit-Windsor Tunnel and back into Detroit for my dog sit. It’s back to reality as I take care of two Corgis for ten days and begin to map my trek west. I am impressed with Canada’s litter-free highways and excellent roads. It’s been a great two weeks of exploring and reconnecting with my uncle.

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My grandparents, mother and her brother (my uncle) grew up in Hamilton, Ontario. I visited often as a child, with my last visit while I was in undergraduate school (yes, forty years ago!). Recently, with my freedom and knowledge gained of my U.S. geography I realized Hamilton was an easy three hours from Detroit.

After my stint at some small lake towns on Lake Huron, I drove two hours to Hamilton. I stayed with my uncle and his wife. Even though my visit was VERY overdue, they easily welcomed me. Thirteen years ago my uncle had a stroke which resulted in Aphasia. Although my uncle sometimes has difficulty getting words out, I think we communicated beautifully.

We enjoyed the backyard and then walked Mountain Brow Blvd, which overlooks the city with Lake Ontario in the distance. Dinner at the pub for fish and chips was then required since pub attendance was a favorite pastime with my uncle when I visited during college.

The next morning, we ventured to a beautiful winery for an inventive and delicious lunch. The grounds were gorgeous and expansive. I did not realize what a large wine region existed near Hamilton. Again, travel and learning go hand in hand.

We landed in Grimsby Beach - a quirky neighborhood on the lake with gingerbread houses. We stopped at Albion Falls and then walked the paved path at Van Wagners Beach along Lake Ontario. Dinner at Barangas On The Beach meant fabulous Greek food. I have eaten very well in Canada!

On my last day we walked along the water at Bayfront Park, cooked a wonderful meal together, found a bakery with fabulous baklava and just enjoyed our last day. Given the amount of time that has passed, I did not really know what to expect with this visit. I think it could not have gone more perfectly and I definitely will visit again much sooner!

Some things that struck me during this visit:

• Hamilton (and Canada) are really fabulous. The food, lakes, green spaces, agricultural prowess and people are fantastic. I remember Hamilton being a gritty industrial town focused on steel production. But like many other places, it has evolved in the last forty years.

• Kid versus adult eyes is an interesting phenomena. I, of course, have memories - lots of them. It was great to be in my grandmother’s house again. As a child the house felt huge and the yard even larger. In reality, the yard was still large but the home was a lot cozier. The neighborhood was more beautiful today than how I remembered it. I walked Pete instead of my grandmother’s dog this time!

• My uncle is still the same kind, smart person he was in the past, despite his stroke. His mannerisms have not changed. He still loves sports and remains down to earth.

• Pete continues to roll with the punches and this trip was no different. He attached himself immediately to my uncle and his wife.

• Change is constant whether roaming or staying in one place. There is no consistency on the road and flexibility is key.

I will explore Ontario the next few days and then return to Detroit to dog sit for ten days.

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We head to Goderich next. It’s the furthest point on Lake Huron we will go on this trip. This is the largest town in the area and feels busy the compared to the surrounding area. The main square is cute but undergoing some major construction.

Bayfield presents a historic Main Street and a park off the center. It was busy and lots of shops and cafes lined the street. We walked down a side street and finally reached Lake Huron. I like this town best because it feels like an actual town and has plenty of things to see and do.

Grand Bend is more of a typical town with all the fast food one would expect. It feels like Seaside, OR in many ways as it tries to attract the kitschy tourist. One thing Grand Bend does have, though, is easy access to Lake Huron with a long, sandy beach, milky blue waters and a very walkable boardwalk. Although dogs are not allowed on the beach, Pete and I got some steps in on the boardwalk. We walked the side streets which consisted of modest cottages piecemealed together with the random new-build monstrosity. Grand Bend is only fifteen minutes from my hotel so we visit several times.

Ipperwash Beach is close to my motel. It allows leashed dogs. It has a long, sandy beach and lots of people enjoying the sand and water. It’s quiet with few services but with that comes peace.

Port Franks has a small marina and a windy road of homes with private beaches. Wetlands guard both sides of the road and turtle crossing signs decorate the path.

Overall the area is very agricultural. There are lots of corn fields and peach trees. What I don’t see a lot of is Lake Huron - which surprises me. The lake is hidden away and farmland and forest take center stage, which blocks how people access the beach. Most entry points are private beaches. One could easily drive through the area and not even realize Lake Huron is here.

Where Michigan’s lake towns are centered around the lake, Ontario’s lake towns are the opposite. It’s slower and quieter here and food options (and ice cream) are not plentiful. It’s truly a completely different vibe from what I have experienced the last two months in Michigan. Not good or bad - but different - and I undoubtedly prefer Michigan’s lakeshores primarily because it doesn’t take any effort to enjoy the water.

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I am on a trip of a lifetime. In July 2025 I sold my home in Portland and have wandered this beautiful country solo with my dog, Pete, ever since. I was fortunate to spend two months in Michigan. Two months that allowed me to dig deeper than the standard flyover and even though Michigan has never been on my radar – I now question why. I repeatedly hear that the winters are brutal so rest assured I won’t visit during that time of year, but I can vouch that the summers in Michigan are spectacular. This trip compels me to ponder the possibility of a summer cabin somewhere in this amazing state.

I began my exploration in Detroit and a friend joins me for the first nine days in Michigan. We bunked in Corktown in a warehouse-turned-apartments. It was rustic in nature but the location was ideal. Three blocks away sits the Riverwalk where people congregated on the walkways, the grassy knolls and the playgrounds. Windsor sits across the water and the bridge plays, at a distance, majestically in the sky.

First stop was Michigan Central Station. A beautifully refurbished train station that houses creative spaces. This building screams of a bygone era when buildings were more than just structures but instead testaments to architecture and artisanal craft. Afterwards we venture to Detroit’s quirky side with The Heidelberg Project. This outdoor art installation speaks loudly with no words at all. We drive 20 minutes to Grosse Point to see the shores of Lake St. Clair with plenty of impressive homes and exclusive waterfront parks (where sadly we were not welcomed in the very plentiful resident-only areas).

Our Detroit roaming continued by driving through historical neighborhoods such as the Boston-Edison Historic District which holds one of the finest collections of early 20th-century homes from a bygone era of wealth and opulence. Some homes have been preserved and others are rundown. The thing they share in common is their size – large! We see multiple abandoned buildings boarded up, but I also see potential. Some of this potential is proven with the revitalization of downtown. It is an area worth wandering…Greektown, the waterfront and the shopping and café paradise. Bakeries with pastries mimicking artwork and narrow alleys with painted murals screaming , look at me I have something to say. And then there’s the Guardian Building – a tribute to how art deco buildings stand the test of time.

Eastern Market is a massive year-round market since 1891 and she displays her wares and proves Michigan is an agricultural and creative powerhouse. Belle Isle a 985-acre island state park in the Detroit River with views of Detroit and Windsor, Canada. Oudolf Garden needed some pruning but I could easily see its possibility.

Warda Patisserie, a midtown bakery beckoned me to choose multiple buttery goods and breakfast at Sister Pie (slice of salted maple pie) was delicious. I liked their scones even more. Michigan & Trumbull introduced me to crispy Detroit-style pizza (I’m a convert!) and dinner at Oak & Reel (my best meal of the trip) prove Detroit has foodie chops.

Next a four-hour drive to Traverse City. This is a bustling small town on the Grand Traverse Bay with a quaint downtown full of shops and cafes. We stay at The Vic by Kasa, a centrally located, clean and well-stocked hotel located one block from Grand Traverse Bay. Of course, the star of the show is sixty minutes away – Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The gradient blues of Lake Michigan need no words since the waters truly speak for itself. It’s entertaining to watch kids and adults climb the massive dune (needless to say going down is a lot easier than returning back up). We proceeded to drive Pierce Stocking Drive. A National Parks pass is needed or a twenty-five-dollar entry fee - but well worth it.

Glen Arbor is the natural next stop. It’s a cute walkable town where the main attraction was clearly Cherry Republic. We, of course, had to try the ice cream and all the plentiful samples. We were not disappointed and the rest of our day was fueled with a cherry, sugar high. Who knew cherries could be used in hundreds of ways?!

The following day we head up the Old Mission Peninsula and land at the Mission Point Lighthouse and walked the beach. The bugs were out so a long walk was not in the cards. The drive along the peninsula was mesmerizing with farms, vineyards and views of the water. We visited Brys Estate and wandered the secret garden and tasted wines. I had no idea that Michigan produced wines and my untrained palette was impressed. I made a point of ordering Michigan wines during my two month visit and was not disappointed. We wandered Old Mission Distilling, too. It offered a great indoor and outdoor area for socializing and shared space with a very cool art store.

A fantastic city beach at Elk Rapids is where we started the next day. The main street of shops was a friendly diversion for my dog, Pete, since every store offered dog treats. Charlevoix was a bit busier and we walked the path to the red lighthouse and watched the bridge go up to let the boats enter Lake Michigan. Of course, a drive to see the famous Mushroom Houses were in order. The work of Earl A. Young was distinctive and inventive. This self-taught designer and builder spent 50 years creating homes. Petoskey was on the way to Mackinac Bridge and a stop was necessary. More shops and restaurants and a beautiful central park made this diversion worthwhile.

We motor over the Mackinac Bridge. The suspension bridge connects the Upper and Lower peninsulas of Michigan. It spans the Straits of Mackinac, a body of water connecting Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. Two lanes each way at almost five miles long and I found it difficult to not look at the beautiful views as I crossed. Our short-term rental sits in St. Ignace, which is a very small, simple town and has two ferry companies that take people over to Mackinac Island. The rental is basic but it has a magnificent view of the harbor and we watched boats pass all evening.

We navigated from St. Ignace to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which took about two hours. We started at Miners Castle and then hiked to Miners Falls. It was an impressive 50-foot surging falls with an overlook and 64 stairs to go down to get a better view. The noisy rush of water was exhilarating.

Afterwards, we head to Munising for lunch since stairs build up an appetite. I wanted to try a pastie and it did not disappoint. This local delicacy originated when working miners needed a filling, easy-to-eat meal. After lunch we headed to Twelve-mile Beach and the Lake Superior Overlook. Despite its beauty, the mosquitos arrived and decided to harass us so the stop was a quick one!

We journeyed to Log Slide - a site where loggers slid large trees over the dunes and into Lake Superior to be transported to Chicago and Detroit to build the cities. The dunes, water and shores in the distance were stunning with color and enormity and it was so clear we saw the Au Sable Light Station. We stopped at the Grand Sable Visitor Center and considered hiking Sable Falls but decided against it due to the bugs. As we returned to St. Ignace the sun came out and the evening sky was flaunting its colors as we watched the boats come in and out of the harbor from our front row seat in our rental.

For years I dreamed of visiting Mackinac Island. The historic, car-free island on Lake Huron seemed idyllic to me. It’s an easy 20-minute ferry ride from St. Ignace and costs $39 roundtrip. From the moment I stepped off the ferry, I entered a different era. The lack of cars, electrical poles and the historic buildings made it feel like stepping back in time. The horse-drawn carriages add to the vibe. The other thing I noticed immediately was the number of lilacs sprinkled all over the island - large trees of lilacs everywhere. The perfumed scent surrounded me and I’m told the island holds a lilac festival every June to show off the 250 species that grow on this magical island.

We walked the main boardwalk and up a hill on the East Bluff, through some trails and forest to the Milliken Nature Center and iconic limestone Arch Rock. The views from this vantage point were incredible with the streaked blue water that sparkled like diamonds on the endless horizon. We headed down the path a half mile and visited the Fort Mackinac grounds, the “Somewhere in Time” monument and Anne’s Tablet. We continued our walk and arrived at the Grand Hotel. This landmark on the Great Lakes opened in 1887 and is the world’s largest summer hotel. The gardens were lush with flowers, greens and topiaries and the eye-catching yellow and white striped awnings scream, summer is here.

Walking and looking at the grand Victorian homes, seeing the horse drawn carriages and the beautiful shades of blue of Lake Huron made this a fable-like day. The streets and stores were crowded and I cannot imagine what the height of summer must be like on the island. We enjoyed lunch at the Gate House Restaurant. My expectations were low, given the number of tourists, but my salad was delicious. We left the dogs at the rental and that was definitely the right thing to do. It was entirely too crowded and Pete would have been terrified of the countless horses everywhere.

The next morning, my friend and I parted ways and I drove south and stopped in Cheboygan, which is only a 30-minute drive from St. Ignace. It sits on the Cheboygan River and Lake Huron. I parked downtown and immediately noticed it was quite lively for a small town. There was a farmers’ market happening and at every street corner a singer or musician was placed. An arts and craft fair was crowded with people out and about on this glorious Saturday morning. Pete and I walked the downtown area and along the river and then return to the car.

I spend the next two nights in Saginaw to visit two different friends. Saginaw is quiet and unhurried. The following day I walk around Midland and the Poseyville Preserve and meet a friend for lunch. I then drove about twenty minutes to Bay City. It’s another historical town on the Saginaw River. Lumber and shipbuilding reined here but those days are long gone. This town’s claim to fame is it’s Madonna’s birthplace. There were lots of antique, vintage and thrift stores scattered throughout the downtown. The old buildings were beautiful and not far from downtown there were many lovely old homes.

Frankenmuth or Michigan’s Little Bavaria was my final stop before Ann Arbor. Bavarian-style architecture, German food and the world’s largest Christmas store all live here. Yes, it kitschy but I figured it’s so close I should visit and a good strudel is worth the effort!

I arrived in Ann Arbor and immediately head to the University of Michigan campus. I started at the Law Quad. The stunning Gothic architecture, archways and verdant foliage mimics being in England. Next, the Burton Memorial Tower - an imposing belltower that’s difficult to miss. Close by is The Diag with a flag in the middle and many buildings and students around this angular intersection. The Clements Library sports an impressive triple archway entrance. I then drive to the Michigan Stadium. Even from the outside it’s not difficult to see the enormity of the venue. Overall, the architecture and gardens of this campus are dazzling.

On my second day in Ann Arbor, I returned to the campus and visited the Art Museum and the Archeology Museum. Both were full of interesting displays. The Art Museum (or UMMA) offers bite-sized art from Korea, Japan, Africa, and China. There is a section of Buddhist artifacts, too. The Modern wing includes four Picassos. The Modern art and African art were my favorites in this museum. I walked through the Michigan Union building on this visit, because Pete was not with me. No surprise - it was another exquisite building filled with architectural details. I proceeded to State Street loaded with shops, cafes and restaurants including the Nickels Arcade (a beautiful indoor shopping arcade built in 1918). Next, I walked Kerrytown (a red-brick-cobblestone-streets historic district with shops, food and the farmers’ market on Saturdays). I then head to Main Street (lots of stores and restaurants) for dinner. It’s been a full day of exploring.

On my third day I explore Ypsilanti (Ypsi for short and fun to say!) and Chelsea. The drive into Ypsi greeted me with a distinctive and phallic-like water tower. The American and Greek flags stand before it. Eastern Michigan University is here, but the campus was very quiet. Downtown is small and the typical brick buildings sit on both sides of the street. I ventured on to Depot Town which is the heart of the historic area. The Huron River runs by and the train depot, stores and cafes round out the experience.

Twenty minutes away in the opposite direction sits Chelsea. The two towns couldn’t be more different. Chelsea has similar brick buildings but they are refurbished. There are sculptures sprinkled throughout the town and the boutiques and restaurants seem a bit more sophisticated. The iconic Jiffy Mix plant is at the edge of town and has been making their products here since 1930. There is a train depot, impressive clocktower and a large library that used to be a family home. Chelsea is a great example of historical buildings being renovated, respected and loved. The nearby streets are filled with large, historic and beautiful homes. Jeff Daniels lives here and founded the respected nonprofit Purple Rose Theatre Company.

I ventured two and a half hours to Western Michigan to see Holland, Grand Haven, Douglas and Saugatuck - picturesque towns situated on or near Lake Michigan. After unloading my stuff at the hotel, Pete and I head to downtown Holland. It’s only two miles away so we hit the Kollen Park & Heinz Waterfront first. Given it is Sunday afternoon, the park was packed with people playing, walking and fishing. The park used to be the site of the C.L. King Basket Company and sits on Lake Macatawa.

We got back into the car and drove seven minutes to downtown Holland, which also houses Hope College. We walked Centennial Park, a flourishing park surrounded on three sides with historical homes and on one side with City Hall and the Holland Museum. The flowers, fountains and historical markers really give this park personality. I am beginning to believe that Michigan is one large flower box.

We then meandered to the shops a few blocks from the park - brick buildings that have been restored and as charming as ever. There were lots of cute shops and cafes - it’s Sunday, though, so many of them were closed. Afterwards we walked to the Window on the Waterfront, which was another beautiful park that overlooks the Macatawa River and the marshes with Windmill Island Gardens across on the other side. It is easy to see De Zwaan, the only authentic working windmill in the U.S. I am certain that when tulips are blooming this park is spectacular. And even when tulips are not blooming, the tulips are replaced with other colorful flowers.

The next morning, we ventured to Ottawa Beach and Mt. Pisgah. I was ready to see Lake Michigan, the dunes and the beach. Unfortunately, we saw none of those things because dogs are not allowed. It is suddenly hot as the mild 70’s has been replaced with the 90’s and it is difficult for Pete to be out for too long. We did walk through the Ottawa Beach Historic District and out to the sand path but we were not able to go onto the beach since dogs are forbidden. We retraced our steps out, crossed the road and walked the Black Lake Boardwalk instead. It’s beautiful, too, but I am fascinated with the ability of dunes to be on the lakes. And not miniscule dunes - but towering, magnificent dunes.

We got back in the car and drove 30 minutes south to Saugatuck, which is a very busy small downtown area with multiple streets of shops, galleries and food. There were many little boutique hotels and bed and breakfasts, too. Flower boxes on store windows, colorful Adirondack chairs and snarky signs filled the quaint streets. And more ice cream stores than should be allowed in a small town. Oh, the joy of Michigan’s historic, charming towns full of history and joie de vivre. I believe it is another item that Michigan has cornered - the irresistible, idyllic tiny town. Oval Beach is close to here and considered one of the best beaches on the Great Lakes but, again, no dogs allowed so we walked to the waterfront and then had lunch. This town felt energetic with a fun vibe and has an interesting backstory about a buried town called Singapore.

Seven minutes away is the town of Douglas. This is a one-street town but just as delicious as the other towns. Douglas sits on the Kalamazoo River and is filled with galleries and a lone pet store that Pete found so irresistible he took an item off the rack without paying for it. My boy is a shoplifter! I paid for the item; he put his tail between his legs and chewed the bone right out the door.

Grand Haven is a classic beach town with a working harbor and coast guard that is homeported here. Walking the waterfront is the first thing we do. It’s a two-and-a-half-mile boardwalk with a pier that gives me a famous red lighthouse at the mouth of Lake Michigan. The waves were fierce and it was a little scary to walk the concrete path with no barriers from the waves. Michigander’s favorite pastime is fishing and there were several poles hoping for a tug. Next to the start of the walkway was a wide, sandy beach (no dogs allowed) and a campground. We wander to the compact downtown which has everything we could need with shops, cafes and ice cream (of course). We landed in a dog store and Pete managed to not steal anything today and was rewarded with a few treats.

Grand Haven doesn’t show off with anything fancy. It’s not overly developed - although it appears some construction is happening. But there was something irresistible about Grand Haven. I’ve now seen so much of Michigan I can almost call myself a Michigander!

Leland for the week with my daughter is next. We stay in Fishtown - which is to say the waterfront area where original fish shanties sit and are repurposed shops, coffee stops and assorted boutiques. Our hotel sits right on the dam, and although noisy, it’s entertaining to watch all the people fishing. Main street has more boutiques and ice cream, of course. We watched fireworks July 3^rd and a small-town parade for July 4^th. We spend our days lazily at Vans Beach and watch, with fascination, as entire families search for special rocks. The sifting tools are in full force and we decide that rock hounding is an Olympic sport in Michigan. I must admit, it is a bit addictive once you start.

We wander to Suttons Bay, where the Main Street extends a bit longer than Leland. Naturally, the water is flanked by a clean, large park and many restaurant options make finding a dinner spot easy. We wander the boutiques, eat dinner and finish the night with ice cream.

In the morning, we visit the very crowded 9 Bean Rows Bakery. The tasty sandwiches along with a tasting room and well-stocked market make this stop worthwhile. We then drive to Northport. We walk the small, quiet town with a waterfront park and some shops, get back in the car and drive to Leelanau State Park. We pay the twelve-dollar entry fee and walk the trails and the beach. The lighthouse is closed but I find the beach much more fascinating, anyway. There are ample bathrooms and picnic areas, too. We return to Leland and eat our last meal at the Riverside Inn. We also ate at The Cove, Trish’s Dishes and Bluebird Restaurant and both commented that for a small town the options were plentiful and the food was tasty. Whitefish hogs most menus and I enjoyed the multiple offerings of this lake fish.

On our way to Harbor Springs we stop halfway and visit a school friend with a home on Torch Lake. The magnitude of the lake is breathtaking. We take the boat out and at the perfect spot we anchor and jump in. The water is refreshing and so clear I can see the bottom. On our return, we stop at the sandbar which is the understood meeting spot on the lake where, incredibly, boats anchor and people can stand in the knee-level water to drink, listen to music and even visit a burger-slinging pontoon to purchase snacks.

Harbor Springs vibe is sophisticated and elegant and our second week is spent in a small short-term rental in downtown. The harbor is breathtaking which reminds me of Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas and the shops undoubtedly upscale. We enjoyed our lowkey week here. We spend one afternoon visiting Petoskey and I enjoyed the second look at this quaint energetic town. Lunch at Chandler’s was delicious. Pond Hill Farm was our Saturday night outing. This working farm and vineyard offers live music and tasty pizzas, wine and cider. We ate, listened to music and walked the beautiful grounds.

I drop my daughter off at the Detroit airport and spend five days exploring Royal Oak, Birmingham, Ferndale and Dearborn. I complete some much-needed errands and plan my visit to Canadian lake towns across the bridge. The weather is in the high 90’s and a wildfire haze envelops the area. I smell like smoke when I return from the outdoors but that does not detract me from recognizing the star that Michigan truly embodies. Michigan surprised me in the very best way and I cannot wait to return.

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When my schedule is completely open it is sometimes difficult to decide where to go. Once I figure out one item, I usually build around it. In this instance, I am meeting my uncle and his wife. I grew up visiting my grandparents in Hamilton, Ontario. I haven’t seen my uncle since the early 1990’s. So, Why now one might wonder. My response, Why not? We will have lots to catch up on and I will meet his wife for the first time.

While in Hamilton, I’ll be staying with them in my grandmother’s house. I cannot wait to see it again. It is going to be very nostalgic.

• The countless hours of Scrabble games I played with my grandmother. I never won a single game!

• The delicious butter tarts always waiting for me in the freezer.

• The lost ice cream cones and subsequent tears because Beagles have voracious appetites.

• The plastic covering on the furniture - which kids were not allowed to sit on, anyways. I am pretty sure the plastic the gone!

With an anchor in place, I start researching what is possible in the area. I have landed on Sarnia, Lambton Shores, Great Bend, Bayfield and Goderich. I am interested to compare the Ontario lake towns versus Michigan lake towns (that I have really enjoyed).

Once all of this was decided, the details become important. As I looked for places to stay, one Canadian host mentioned the need to have my dog microchipped in order to return to the United States. Ugh. I was so focused on getting across the Canadian border, I did not even think about my return to the U. S. and that the requirements might be different from Canada.

The last time I was at the vet they could not find Pete’s microchip and the vet suspected it had somehow passed through his body. This meant he needed to be microchipped again. Talk about stress! I called several places and one place couldn’t see us until September! I finally found a place that would take us today.

I showed up for the appointment and they proceeded to tell me the needle was very large and Pete would need to be sedated. Huh? And he would then have to stay at the vet’s for several hours, which was not possible since they were closing in an hour. I asked all these questions on Thursday when I called! My mind began to spin.

I am not ashamed to say that I cried. Not because of the process, but instead because I feared I was putting Pete in unnecessary pain. I suggested numbing the area or providing pain medication after the insertion. I had to walk out of the building. I did not want to risk hearing Pete yelp in pain.

Minutes later Pete returned from the back, tail wagging as if nothing had happened. The vet said he didn’t even notice nor did he make a peep. I was so relieved and thankful Pete is so easygoing. Needless to say, he was rewarded with double the usual amount of treats tonight.

So, tomorrow we leave for Canada. It should be an easy hour drive to the border, over the Blue Water Bridge and into Sarnia. We will stop in Sarnia for a few hours and then head to our motel near the beach, which is another hour away.

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Like several things I have tried to see in Detroit, the home is under renovation so I could only enter the grounds. The grounds were spectacular and the home faces the river. It was easy to see why the Fords chose this location since it was nature-filled, peaceful and private. Initially I got lost and walked a path along the edge of University of Michigan Dearborn which is a modern, quiet campus. On the path I met two lovely women, Hamin and Jennifer and we walked together and spoke about Michigan. Hamin teaches English as a second language at Henry Ford College. I love meeting people on the road and hearing their stories.

Next, I drove east to visit the Arab American National Museum. Dearborn is not just all things Ford, but also contains the largest Arab American community in the United States. This small museum shares touching stories of Arab Americans and their impact on American culture, economics and politics. The immigrant experience is front and center as many exhibits share how Arabs arrived, built lives and contributed to the America we know today.

Arab American refers to anyone living in the United States with ancestry in any of the 22 Arab countries. Arab Americans began immigrating to the United States in large numbers in the 1880s, mainly due to economic factors. Today, Arab immigration is still driven by economic factors, but also war and political upheaval. The total population of Arab Americans is between 2 and 3.6 million.

It is often believed that Arab Americans are all Muslim but that is not true, of course, they are also Jewish and Christian. After visiting the museum some baklava was in order so I meandered to Shatila Bakery, a well-known and impressive spot for all things sweet. A nomad must do what a nomad must do…all in the name of research!

I drove through West Downtown Dearborn which was a typical Main Street and then East Downtown Dearborn, which is not as quaint but more cultural. I finished my exploring at the Dearborn Peace Park East. The wildfire haze is gone after three days so being outside was much more enjoyable but the heat and humidity is no joke.

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I visit Royal Oak’s lively downtown filled with shops, restaurants and bars. It’s clean and people are friendly. A short drive away is the small community of Ferndale. The Pride flags are out in full force and I love it. Murals everywhere make this area feel creative and quirky and it was recommended I visit One Eyed Betty but it was closed. It seems this area is lively in the evening and weekends based on the hours posted on many establishments.

After Ferndale, I stopped at the National Shrine of the Little Flower Basilica. Not only is this Art Deco church difficult to miss from busy Woodward Avenue, but it also contains a controversial past. The founding pastor, Father Charles E. Coughlin, built the church in 1925 and grew his reach to millions of listeners with radio broadcasts from the distinctive tower. His views became controversial and antisemitic, which forced him off the air in 1940 for his pro-Nazi rhetoric.

Birmingham was a 15 minute drive and displayed a completely different vibe from Royal Oak or Ferndale. It was upscale and posh but also clean and lush with Shain Park right in the center of downtown. I walked the retail-filled streets and then wandered the residential area. Just gorgeous.

A short and impressive drive through Bloomington Hills landed me at Cranbrook House and Gardens. It is a jaw-dropping estate created by George Booth (Booth Publishing Company and Scripps newspaper empire). The English Tudor manor was a grand home and educational community completed in 1908. The gardens were peaceful and spectacular. After all my touring I decided ice cream was in order and so I visited the iconic Ray’s Ice Cream. It did not disappoint!

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