El Chato, Perro Negro, Ruda.

While this 22-strong guide (in three parts) of where to eat and drink is short and sweet in terms of its reviews, SorrelEater assures:

• I have dined at or consumed at every place mentioned.

• I might have been invited, I might also have paid the bill.

• That’s it.

In Bogotá, the most renowned bars and restaurants that frequent lists that you should definitely visit are El Chato, Leo, Harry Sasson and Humo Negro; in Medellín, Sambombí, Mamba Negra and Bar Carmen; and in Cartagena de Indias, Celele and Alquímico. These are already well on the map and are musts for first-time visitors to Colombia.

» Listen to this track by Colombian band Diamante Eléctrico while you read…

And while this post is being published later than I was aiming for (try getting a broken computer screen fixed in the Arctic Circle), the timing isn’t insignificant. Following last week’s earthquake that affected regions as Chocó on the Pacific coast as well as Pereira and other coffee-growing regions, it’s important to return to Colombia, its bars and restaurants, buy their coffee, as soon as we can to support them. There’s a link at the bottom to send donations.

La Sala de Laura, Perro Negro, Selma.

Part 1: (Mostly) Chapinero Alto, Bogotá

1. Decadente
   Teeny tiny bar with cocooning scarlet illumination, the concept is powerful Brutalism; even the ice has architectural significance. Got on 50 Best Discovery’s 2026 list.

2. Amor Perfecto
   Caffeine fiends can sink into a sofa for the brew of choice, whose beans are sourced from smallholders, while caffeine nerds can book in for cupping and tasting courses.

3. Lobo Negro
   Sister bar to fine-dining grunge restaurant Humo Negro, urban art is the inspiration here starting with the ground floor gallery. Star bartender Manu Barbosa gets to be a protagonist and showcase his elegant work; head up to the top floor for cocktails such as St. Germain- and gin-led Flor de Silencio.

4. El Corral Texaco 69
   So you know, I’m not past diving into a petrol station for a late-night burger with all the trimmings; this 24-hour gasolinera hits the spot. 📍Ak 7 #69-26, Bogotá

   

   Decadente, Tacaloa, Selma.

5. La Sala de Laura
   Seasonal drinks menu crafted by sommelier and proprietor, leading liquid light Laura Hernández. Pioneer in putting Colombian beverages on the global stage, this is a sophisticated space with either a DJ or live music; order delicious plates to pair created by legendary chef (and Laura’s mum) Leo Espinosa.

6. Selma

   The second restaurant from El Chato’s chef Alvaro Clavijo, order delicious and hearty dishes to share such as mussels and chips, or parsnip pasta made fresh daily; cocktails are conceived by talented drinks director Andy Villamil White and also at casual sister spot Ruda.

7. Mesa Franca
   Go with friends and order as much of the menu as possible to savour chef Iván Cadena’s well-contemplated Colombia dishes for sharing, often made with organic produce; think elegant tamales, ham made from pirarucú Amazon river fish and pasta made in house.

   

   Prudencia, Leo, El Corral Texaco 69.

   Other intel – cos I’m nice like that
   I haven’t been to Debora since a new chef took over, but the plazas (markets) menu concept in 2025 was an interesting and personal focus; I implicitly trust sommelier owner Valentino Galán Cortés. I wish I’d gone more often to Açai Memoria Amazónica, but it’s now closed; I’d love to know about anything similar. I hate to say that a Mexican is teaching Colombians about corn tortillas but Santiago Moctezuma of Maizajo’s (CDMX) Tacaloa is a truly tasty taco joint in the Alcazares neighbourhood. The sweet-toothed will enjoy Jardín Tragos y Pasteles for a distinctive cocktails and desserts experience. I enjoy Prudencia and its fire-led cooking though it’s a bit off circuit when so many places are located in Chapinero. And, let’s hope talented chef Jennifer Rodríguez re-opens Mestizo in Mesitas del Colegio (a two-hour drive away but worth it) in the future.

Support Colombians via the Alquímico Foundation here.

According to the Urban Thesaurus, there are more than 1,280 ways to name teeth – and many, as to be expected from this online ‘guide’, have sexual references (boner biter, anyone?). The good news, however, is my champion chompers are back in the biting business.

So: why didn’t I wear braces as a teenager? Because my mum always said I had perfect teeth – AND I BELIEVED HER.

And why did I get braces as an adult? Because a dentist told me that nighttime grinding, combined with a misaligned bite, meant I wouldn’t have teeth in 20 years. I BELIEVED HER.

Ezeiza airport, no braces, 28 May 2024; La Paz, Bolivia, March 2025; CoChinChina, Buenos Aires, yes braces 3 June 2024.

Smart people got this over and done with during the pandemic, when no one could judge them. I hummed and hawed over the decision, and while it was also kind of about money and the initial investment, metal braces, rather than the invisible ones, were the only option because of my dire dental dilemma. Decision, made. I started in May 2024.

Naturally vanity came into the decision making. I was 47, for crying out loud, already self-conscious about sagging body parts without adding mouth shackles to the equation. I went for the white ones, rather than metal, while contemplating 67-year-old me brandishing a full set of own-grown enamels. Bit more expensive, definitely more subtle. They deceived more than one person. Phillipe of Melbourne, March 2026: “Why are you talking with a lisp, what the fuck’s wrong with you?” And various others, rather more charmingly, would say: “Oh, I didn’t notice them." I forget who you are but thank you for making a bracketed-up old girl feel less awkward.

And, while I’ve never really been one for taking selfies eating (of me, yes, but not chomping down whatever), a quick step back in time over the past 26 months shows that while I didn’t not give toothy smiles before, I certainly, unconsciously, took fewer grinning pics with braces on. I found just five of me, braces and food together, although many many more – likely fuelled by alcohol – with a glass of wine or cocktail in hand. Did I ever think about how this treatment might affect me as a food writer? Not really. But somewhere between a selfie with Tomi Trescha at Ezeiza airport on 28 May 2024 and being a judge for the World Class competition on 3 June 2024 with Pedro Peña at CoChinChina, in a bid for stellar oral health, I started wearing braces.

In 26 months, I’ve had three orthodontists, the last finally guiding me through the severe lower jaw wonks and getting me molars standing erect and tall. I’ve had wires wrapped around wires that then shredded my inner cheeks, inadvertently swallowed enough wax (used to ease the pain of polycrystalline ceramics meeting fleshy gum) to open a candle store, swallowed brackets themselves, had mouth sores and ulcers, suffered pain after pain, the inability to eat what I wanted, and emergency phone numbers for orthodontists in Latin America on speed dial to hook up dropped wires back onto brackets. It was endless. And, I haven’t eaten apples or sourdough bread, or carrots. Hard to chew, you see.

Smiling and eating in Colón, Panama, 2025; Milan, Italy, March 2025; near-death experience in Seoul, South Korea, October 2024.

I thought I’d be sent home in a coffin from Seoul

An aside on the first time I did actually swallow a bracket. I was in Seoul. I woke up, realised what had happened and thought I was going to die. How the fuck would a fallen bracket get through my tubes and intestines without slicing them up? I was in Seoul. How the fuck could I explain I was going to die to an emergency dentist in Huangugeo? And if I did pass this chunk of polycrystalline ceramic through a system already digesting kimchi and spicy crab, would I not then break my butthole? All this, on waking up in Dongdaemun. A mate, Fernando, happened to be in South Korea at the same time: I gave him strict instructions that if I didn’t reply to messages withint he hour, to send all the help, 119 (ambulance), 1330 (tourist assistance) and the hotel lobby. I was freaking out but badly. It turns out – according to not a doctor but a search engine – our bodies have so many enzymes that as soon as anything is swallowed, it instantly starts breaking down. Fears of faeces-sifting soon evaporated, and I got back on the kimchi. But, I genuinely freaked out.

Cutting my teeth

Once the treatment began, I asked for advice from the community. Every month I had to cut my teeth (a convenient-to-this-story English idiom), starting over and readapting. Luisa (13): “The monthly tightening sessions hurt. I usually take a painkiller beforehand.” That turned out to be the least of my agonies, but the continuous slow-moving upheaval in my mouth meant the way I spoke slightly changed each month (more lisp, more tongue), plus I’d have to stick wax onto new places. Carrying said sticky mouth lube around (warm between your fingers first so you can better maneouvre it), as well as a toothbrush or picks became a bumbag necessary (Yes, a bumbag because I am clearly still not quite a grown-up).

Some people loveeeeeeed braces on this adult. “Oh, they are really cute!” Wink. “They really suit you!” Wink. “Sexy!” Wink. What? Like, seriously. They are BRACES and I definitely do not feel attractive wearing them. But, I’m not going to criticise you for em-brac-ing my metal mouth gear sit, so, uh, thanks, I guess. Meeting fellow kidults also created brief bonds, which is nice, cos we all be suffering in our own way. “How much longer you got”, “What were your teeth like before?” That kind of thing.

And some people loveeeeeeed pointing out when I had food stuck between my teeth. Thank you, yes I KNOW I have coriander/spaghetti/tomato skin/sesame seed there, I am STILL eating and I will DEAL with said debris when I have FINISHED, else I’ll have to get up NOW and remove it, and now you’ve mentioned it (are you passive aggressive? A brace shamer? Are you realllllly being helpful? Because trust me, I KNOW it’s there), I probably won’t do it int he bathroom but in your face where hopefully the aforementioned coriander/spaghetti/tomato skin/sesame seed might flick out on to you and make you cry. Whoops.

New Orleans, USA, July 2025; inspiration for next time, in Medellín; Cartagena de Indias, Colombia, July 2025.

The eating part

Regression. For 26 months I ate like a baby (most of the time). Please bring me a knife! Had to cut food into tiny pieces but not too small because they GET STUCK in your braces. Sigh. I feel so repetitive. Please bring me a knife! I need to cut stuff. Couldn’t really chew chewy stuff like beef. Definitely couldn’t chew for a couple of days after adjustments. Drowning and choking on chūkamen (ramen noodles) was another near-death experience. I didn’t turn up to numerous asados. I couldn’t bear to go to an asado and watch folornly as others chewed on short rib after short rib (maybe that’s the ‘boner biter’ that Urban Thesaurus referred to...).

I started doing Teeth Terapía with Pedro Bargero. The Argentine chef started treatment the same week, another adult teenageing with me. Teah! We’d swap tips – use wax! Carry a toothbrush at all times! Rice no! Popcorn definitely not! Use a teaspoon instead of a dessert spoon! Order the aubergine at Hong Kong Style! Pão de queijo always! – and I fast realised we were a whole new demographic that could be tapped into. I wanted to mass produce steak smoothies, for example. We started making a list of what we could eat, it was topped by caviar. Clearly this new orthodontic diet wasn’t financially sustainable… and needless to say I never mass produced anything.

Yesterday, the braces were wrenched off, the cement polished away. Many many former wearers have long said to me:
Them: “It feels so weird when your braces are removed.”

Me:

It’s not weird. It’s the best feeling.

Fangs for the memories. Gonna celebrate with a world tour taking in Nashville and Massachusetts…

Read more

<> Four years ago, I wouldn’t have bet my cat on a festival taking place in Medellín that in just its first year hosted 60 participating bars, and last week, for its second edition, hosted 75. Incredible! Or was it obvious? Colombians’ spirit, for me, is charming, fun, hardworking, with a strong social conscience shaped by all that the denizens of that beautiful country have experienced. How can anyone refuse a trip to this destination?

I’m loathe to use the word ‘exotic,’ but for Italians, Scottish pandas, bartenders from Hong Kong, Oslo, London, Paris, and Toronto, getting to know Medellín and Colombia should be a very appealing trip. So when MCW organiser Juan David Zapata calls you, ‘What’s up, querida?, you answer affirmatively.

For my part, I moderated the first seminar in Colombia for Women & Hospitality, while Italians Giorgio Bargiano (The Connaught Bar, London), Lorenzo Antinori (Bar Leone, Hong Kong), and Lorenzo Querci (Moebius, Milan) did guest shifts, as did Remy Savage and Inés De Los Santos (not Italian) at Mamba Negra, while Nicky Craig (Panda & Sons, Edinburgh) donned the bear headband at Naúfrago. Then there were the folks from Himkok, Cochinchina, Sastrería Martínez, La Factoria, Handshake Speakeasy, Lady Bee, Limantour, Tres Monos… and some 63 other bars. A great week in Medellín.

Liquid Colombia – The Book

Sommelier Laura Hernández launched her first book, Colombia Líquida, during Medellín Cocktail Week 2026. This beverage creative, who has paved the way in her country by highlighting small producers, interpreting their regions and terroirs, and transforming them into spirits and drinks, is, in my opinion, the only person who can publish a tome on this particular topic right now. Restaurateur, entrepreneur, sommelier, creative director, leader, designer, mother – Laura now adds author to her resume. Undoubtedly, this work will become an essential guide for any kitchen or bar.

It was launched at @test.klab during @medellincocktailweek_; Colombia

Líquida (Liquid Colombia) is available on Amazon.

Smoke signals intensify

<> They call their cuisine Fine Dining Grunge, but after dipping into the omakase this week, the connotation of the English word (dirty, unkempt, but also alternative and rebellious) no longer describes chef Jaime Torregrosa’s work at Humo Negro.

Paintings adorn the dark walls, art subtly illuminating the tones, while a window offers a view of the bar as live performance. And what was served this Sunday was closely linked to the artistic. Colors, textures, shapes, and more flavours than ever before are on the palette he employs to explore Colombian diversity: starfruit and mandarin lemon, coca leaf, quinoa, pirarucí Amazon river fish, and tucupí. And the ever-present electric blue of spirulina, this time in a blue crab ceviche. He’s even upped his presentation and tableware game, while fun and joy remain, but a certain maturity is also evident.

Humo Negro has reached a next level, in my opinion, with rich flavors and impeccable presentation. The music remains rock-oriented, and the Peaky Blinders-haired bartender, Manuel Barbosa (chosen as the best in Latin America 2025 by Colombia Cocktail Awards), expertly pairs cocktails with wine (and it’s worth visiting Lobo Negro, a 2025 opening, to learn more about his work with spirits). The atmosphere is relaxed. Yes, that day the service lacked a bit of warmth, but Monday was going to be a public holiday (no one could explain for what, only that there are three festivos this June), and I can understand they were, perhaps, less than eager to work.

The Alchemical Vision

I was a bit gutted that news of the winner of the Tales Visionary Award 2026 was stuffed away at the bottom of an email. I’m gutted because it’s Jean Trinh who will receive this honor at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans in July, and my friend’s tireless work deserves the highest recognition.

Having moved to Colombia, the Franco-Vietnamese entrepreneur opened Alquímico in Cartagena de Indias 10 years ago. A three-storey bar, a high-energy bar, a place for dancing and hooking up, for energetic dancing, and, for those who close up the shop, the life-saving chicken soup. Pure fun.

But behind the mirrors, the bottles and the Catalina dances, lies a profound, communal, contemplative, and real philosophy, a philosophy that changes lives.

Developing ties with the Asocoman farming community, the bar’s suppliers, changing the food menu to be 100% vegetarian, supporting the young musicians’ band Colectivo Canta by providing them with a rehearsal space, and, just this month, opening the Alquímico Hospitality School.

I’ll share more about Jean, his team, and the incredible achievements that should inspire us all in the next Sorrel Eater (& Drinker) newsletter for subscribers.

The evolution of Jaime David Celele

<> His number is saved under Jaime Proyecto Caribe, dating back to when he started a new life in Cartagena de Indias researching products and producers in the region.

Over the past decade, Jaime Rodríguez has grown so solidly, in intention and commitment, that he deserves all the awards bestowed upon him. Some call him the flower chef of Celele, but his evolution now includes Ahíto, a recent opening with partner Pipe Díaz that’s a relaxed bistro serving Caribbean dishes. Then, this July, he’ll scale new heights with Boro, located in the Wake Building in Medellín, whose kitchen will also cater to the hotel there.

I’ll tell you more about Jaime in the Sorrel Eater (& Drinker) newsletter for subscribers in an upcoming issue of Cool-ombia in June.

<> Hace cuatro años, no te habría apostado ni sobria ni en pedo por un festival en Medellín que invitaría en su primer año, unos 60 bares, y la semana pasada para la segunda edición, unos 75.
¡Qu increíble! ¿O era obvio? El espíritu colombiano, para mi, es encantador, divertido, trabajador, con una consciencia social bien marcada por todo lo que se ha vivido (y viven). ¿Cómo se niega un viaje a este destino?

Odio usar la palabra ‘exótica’ pero, pero para los tanos, el panda escocés, bartenders de Hong Kong, Oslo, Londres, París y Toronto, conocer a Medellín y Colombia debería ser un viaje bien llamativo. Entonces cuando Juan David Zapata te llama, ‘Qué más, querida’, le contestas afirmativamente.

Por mi parte, fui moderadora para el primero seminario en Colombia en el nombre de Women & Hospitality, mientras los tanos Giorgio Bargiano (The Connaught Bar, Londres), Lorenzo Antinori (Bar Leone, Hong Kong) y Lorenzo Querci (Moebius, Milano) hicieron guest shifts, tanto como Remy Savage e Inés De Los Santos (no tana), en Mamba Negra, mientras Nicky Craig (Panda & Sons, Edimburgo) se puso la bincha de oso en Naufrago. Luego, estaban los de Himkok, Cochinchina, Sastrería Martínez, La Factoria, Handshake Speakeasy, Lady Bee, Limantour, Tres Monos… y unos 63 bares más. Una gran semana en paisalandia.

Colombia Líquida – el libro

<> La sommelier Laura Hernández lanzó su primer libro, Colombia Líquida, durante Medellín Cocktail Week 2026. La creativa de bebidas que ha forjado el camino en su país iluminando productores pequeños, interpretando sus terrenos y lugares y convirtiéndolos en destilados y bebidas, para mi es la única persona que puede publicar sobre este tema particular en este momento.
Restauranteur, empresaria, sommelier, directora creativa, líder, diseñadora, madre – Laura ya suma autora a su curriculum.
Sin duda este trabajo auto gestionado y publicado se pondrá una guía necesaria para cualquier cocina o barra.
Se lanzó en @test.klab durante @medellincocktailweek_; Colombia Líquida está disponible via Amazon.

Los señales de humo se potencian

<> Ellos la llaman a su cocina Fine Dining Grunge pero luego de probar el omakase esta semana, la connotación de la palabra en inglés (sucio, desprolijo pero también alternativo, rebelde) ya no describe más el trabajo del chef Jaime Torregrosa en Humo Negro.

Cuadros adornan las paredes oscuras, arte sutilmente iluminando los tonos, mientas la ventana abre vista de la barra es una pieza en vivo. Y lo que se cenó este domingo estaba bien vinculado con lo artístico. Colores, texturas, forma, y más sabores que nunca que recorren la diversidad colombiana, frutas como carambolo y limón mandarino, hoja de coca, quinua, pirarucú y tucupí. Y siempre presente el eléctrico azul de la espirulina, está vez en un ceviche de jaiba azul. Se sintió más cariño a la presentación y la vajilla, donde sigue diversión y alegría pero cierta madurez también.

Llegó a un next level Humo Negro, me parece, con ricos sabores y la presentación prolija. La música sigue rockera, el bartender de los pelos Peaky Blinders Manuel Barbosa (elegido el mejor de América Latina 2025 por Premios Cocktail Colombia) maneja el maridaje entre coctelería y vino (y vale la pena visitar Lobo Negro, apertura 2025, para conocer mejor su trabajo con destilados), el ambiente de relajado. Sí, ese día el servicio faltaba un poco de cariño en la mesa, pero el lunes iba a ser festivo (nadie me pudo explicar por cual motivo, solo que habían tres este junio) y entiendo que tenían menos ganas de laburar.

Gran alternativa bogotana a los menus más intensivos de tiempo como LEO y El Chato, que suma un adicional dialogo colombiano gastronómico a la mesa, mientras brinda arte y alegría. Menos grunge, más good grooming.

Este agosto Humo Negro cumple cinco años; de invitado cocina Tomás Treschanski de Trescha*, Buenos Aires.

Ph: Julián Berroterán

La visión alquímica

Me dio pena que se había escondido la noticia del ganador del Tales Visionary Award 2026 al pie de un mail. Indignación de mi parte porque es Jean Trinh que recibirá este honor en Tales of the Cocktail, Nueva Orleans, en julio, y el trabajo incansable de mi amigo merece pero la maxima iluminación.

Transplante a Colombia, el emprendedor franco vietnamita abrió Alquímico en Cartagena de Indias hace 10 años. Un bar de tres pisos, un bar de alto volumen, de perrear y levante, de baile energético y, para los que cierran el boliche, la sopa de polla salvadora. Pura diversión.

Pero detrás de los espejos, los frascos y los bailes a Catalina queda una filosofía profunda, comunitaria, contemplada y real, una filosofía que cambia vidas.

Desarrollar vínculos con la comunidad de agricultores Asocoman, proveedores del bar, cambiar el menú de comida para que sea vegetariano cien por ciento, apoyar la banda de jovenes músicos Colectivo Canta para que tengan un espacio para ensayar, y recién este mes, se abrió la escuela de hospitalidad Alquímico Hospitality School.

Voy a contar más sobre Jean, su equipo y los increíbles logros que nos deberían motivar a todos en el próximo Boletín Sorrel Eater (& Drinker) para subscriptores.

La evolución de Jaime David

<> Lo tengo guardado en mi celular como Jaime Proyecto Caribe, cuando arrancó una nueva vida en Cartagena de Indias investigando productos y productores de la región.

En la última década, Jaime Rodríguez ha crecido en una manera tan sólida, con intención y compromiso, que merece todos los premios que le llueven. Lo conocemos como el chef de las flores en Celele, pero hace poco abrió Ahíto, un bistrot relajado que sirve platos caribeños, con Pipe Díaz. Y en julio, llegará a una nueva elevación con Boro, ubicado en el Edificio Wake, Medellín, cuya cocina se ocupará del hotel allí.

Contaré más sobre Jaime en El Boletín Sorrel Eater (& Drinker) para subscriptores en una próxima edición de Cool-ombia en junio.

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