So, as a thank you for your amazing support, patience, and grace, I am gifting you all a couple of my maps. Because truly, every dollar, every share, and review is meaningful to me. I don’t go on press trips and rarely accept free wines to review. So all of this space is funded by me, and America ain’t cheap!

I have designed a fun Portuguese wine map for you to download, print, share. I just ask if you share to please credit me.

PDF download map for printing.

Of course I didn’t stop there. I also have made an adult coloring page map for you to use for studies or for fun. Grab it here.

Don’t worry, I am not going anywhere. I just take a lot longer to get things done these days. I have some wine guides, tasting notes, and a couple interviews to get out into the world soon. But my soon and your soon are very different.

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I want to leave you with a Port wine cocktail that is probably very different than anything you have tried before. Or, I hope it is!

1 part rosé Port

1 part licor de ginja

2 parts pure cranberry juice (unsweetened)

ice

red currants to garnish, or whatever you have on hand

Optional is a splash of tonic water, or you can substitute the cranberry juice with tonic water.

This cocktail is meant to be whatever you want it to be. Licor de ginja is a sweet cherry liquor from Portugal. Rosé port is also sweet. If you like a sweet drink, by all means add far less cranberry juice or tonic water. I experiment based on my mood, so it is a rough recipe. You can play around with it to get it just to your liking.

Enjoy!

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Some articles from my archive you may enjoy until I write you again!

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Basics of baga

Baga is one of Portugal’s most interesting red grapes and definitely one of its most misunderstood. It’s mostly grown in the Bairrada region in central Portugal, but you’ll also find it in neighboring regions, Dão and Beira Interior. The word baga means berry in Portuguese. As baga grows in small, tightly packed bunches of berries, it perfectly fits the name.

Baga has a bit of a stubborn streak and is a little high maintenance. It’s a late-ripening grape with small, tightly packed clusters that can be challenging to grow and to work with. You may have heard some less-than-flattering things about Baga in the past. Super acidic, rough tannins, funky wines, or wines that felt flat. Let’s put those ideas out of your mind forever. Winemakers growing baga today are doing some really beautiful things. The days of below average baga wines are over. Baga today is often made in two different styles, the more traditional style and the newer modern approach. Traditional baga tends to be deeply colored, concentrated, and packed with tannins. The newer style is lighter and fresher, with softer tannins, bright fruit, spice, and a little more approachability for the average drinker.

I think there is absolutely room for both styles. But if I had to guess, I’d say baga’s future on the world stage may lean more toward these fresher, modern expressions that make people fall in love with the grape a little faster.

Baga is not just used for red wines. You’ll also find it in rosés and some of Portugal’s most respected sparkling wines thanks to its naturally bright acidity. Industry estimates suggest around 20 to 30% of baga grapes may go into sparkling wine production, although hard numbers are surprisingly difficult to track down. Sparkling wines in this region are fantastic. They are crisp, very refreshing when young and age gracefully developing toast notes and lots of complexity.

Baga thrives in clay-rich soils, often with limestone mixed in, giving the wines structure, freshness, and the backbone that allows many of them to age for years. Bairrada region provides ample amounts of the perfect soil for it to thrive. But because of this, baga is a vigorous growing grape. Proper canopy management needs to take place, like manual thinning, to ensure airflow to the canopy as well as to let sunlight to get in. It also produces high yields, which sound great, but is not actually great. The grapes need to be cluster thinned or cordon trained to reduce the yields which then help maintain concentration of the juice.

Baga is resistant to mildews, which is really good as it grows so well by the coast. However, it can be susceptible to botrytis later in the season if it rains at harvest time. Botrytis is grey rot, not good at all. A lot of time, producers will avoid this possibility by harvesting baga early and using the grapes for sparkling wine production instead of still wine.

As of 2024, it accounts for 4% of the countries planted vineyard area, nearly 8,000 hectares and approximately 2,500 growers. Mateus rosé produces roughly 20 million bottles of their rosé a year. 60% of their blend is baga. That is give or take 9,000 tons of baga grapes per year. Let that sink in! So, if you think you haven’t tried baga, you probably have if you ever tried the famous Mateus rosé.

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Luís Pato and his contribution to the baga grape

I feel I can’t write about baga without mentioning Luís Pato. When many growers in Bairrada were replacing baga vines with other varieties, Pato did the opposite and invested in the grape, believing in its potential.

In the early 1980s, Pato started making wine under his own name, focusing on learning more about baga in both the vineyard and the cellar. He introduced new practices like green harvesting to reduce yields, destemming to soften the tannins, and temperature-controlled fermentation. These changes showed a new side of baga that many wine drinkers hadn’t seen before.

At the time, many people thought of baga as rough and hard to work with, but Pato proved it could produce elegant, age-worthy wines with freshness, structure, and character. His work changed people’s perception of the grape and helped bring attention to both baga and the Bairrada region. To this day he is still making the grape shine in his vineyard. But his legacy doesn’t stop there. His daughter, Filipa Pato is also bringing baga wines into the future.

One: Avoid tourist traps

You’d think it’s a no-brainer, especially in summer in any European city. But from all the travel suggestions people ask me for, it seems like they only are being recommended tourist spots. These places are great, but in summer, they’re not so great. You’ll deal with lines, crowds, and influencers asking you to move so they can get their perfect shot. Smart travelers want to experience something special when they spend money on a vacation. That’s why I say skip the tourist traps.

Leave the big cities behind and really experience the country you’re visiting. It’s not that you shouldn’t spend time in cities, but what’s the point of traveling if you just visit the same old tourist spots? Travel to immerse yourself in the culture.

The real magic in Portugal is in its smaller cities and towns. Try local restaurants, drink local wines made by people who really need the support. I’m not saying you should never visit big cities or well-known wineries - I go to those too. But I highly recommend supporting smaller places on your next trip, especially those off the beaten path. Your money can make a big difference to local people and their employees, and can even change their month.

Some places I recommend you check out:

• Aveiro

• Guimarães

• Gerês

• Nazaré

• Tomar

• Beja

• Coimbra

• Amarante

• Chaves

• Caldas da Rainha

Two: Rent a car

So much of Portugal is only accessible via car. Renting a car also gives you the ability to set your own schedule and travel the entire country. The countryside in Portugal has so much magic to explore.

I recommend Sixt, we use them every time we go to Portugal. They have great customer service and car options.

Three: Eat at restaurants that aren’t on lists

Portugal has incredible food everywhere you look. From restaurants to street markets and even the supermarkets. I’ve never had a bad meal in Portugal, and I hope you never do either. The key for traveling here is to eat at a mix of nicer restaurants, small places, and ones that are off the beaten track. One thing to note is that eating out in Portugal isn’t like in America. You can have dinner for two with a bottle of wine without spending $200.

I’m going to say something that might cause controversy. You don’t need to eat at Michelin-starred restaurants here. The typical Michelin style of small portions, foam, and similar food you can find in any Michelin restaurant worldwide isn’t necessary. Although I’ve had Michelin-starred dinners in Portugal and they were good, they’re not the ones I remember and crave today. Actually, they were the most expensive and left me feeling underwhelmed.

We have had some of the best meals at small, rural restaurants. Look for rural villages that are off the beaten path, and ask where the locals eat. When we travel, we all like different things, so my best advice for Portugal is to try a little of everything. And maybe if you are in a big city like Porto, take a food tour like this one (they usually give you a mix).

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Four: Please stop posting your location in real time on social media

This should be common sense by now, but it seems like people often forget or do not think about it. I think this is especially important for female travelers. If you need to post your location in real time, at least turn off the location tags on your photo apps. As a woman traveling, I know how unsafe this can be. Even in a country like Portugal, which is considered one of the safest, you’re still giving away too much information to potential creeps on social media. They’ll know where you’re staying, eating, and going, and they’ll also know that your home is empty. I’m not sure if younger people understand this, since they’ve grown up with social media their whole lives.

Winery experiences

I won’t go into too much detail here, as each link will give you all the information you need. These are some experiences in Portugal that I highly recommend. I usually suggest no more than two experiences per day that are close in proximity to each other. From my experience with wine, I’ve found that doing more than two in a day doesn’t work well. You tend to rush through the first one, watching the clock, and then you’re often tired, stuffed, or tipsy by the second one. But feel free to do what works for you - everyone is different.

Green Odyssey Tours- Beautifully curated tours (not just wine) in the Vinho Verde region in Portugal

Howard’s Folly Winemaking/Blending Workshop- Set in the Alentejo, this urban winery supports the arts and makes great wines

Ode Winery Winery Visit with the Winemaker- This historic farm is set in the Tejo region, one that often gets overlooked by tourists. Don’t make that mistake.

Quinta de San Michel Wine Tours and Tastings- This iconic winery is making incredible wines in the Colares subregion of the Lisboa wine region. Don’t miss out on tasting their wines and visiting their winery.

Quinta Madre de Água Horse Drawn Carriage Ride Through the Vineyards- For a truly unique and memorable experience in the Dão wine region, this offers you a relaxing exploration of the vines and can add on a wine tasting at the end.

Herdade Canal Caveira Picnic- Set in the Península de Setúbal you can picnic at the foot of the Grândola mountain range while learning about the winery and indulging in their delicious wines.

Quinta de la Rosa Vale do Inferno Private Tour & Premium Wine Tasting- Not only is this an iconic estate in the Douro Valley, but there is something for everyone here. I recommend spending a little extra and going for their premium tasting, but any will do.

Luis Pato At The Table With The Producer- If you want to meet a winemaking legend in the Bairrada region of Portugal and have a life changing experience, splurge to taste with with Luis Pato. But if you cannot afford that, no worries, the basic wine experience is also amazing. He is the king of the baga grape.

There are so many more wineries and experiences I recommend. I honestly could do this forever, so if you are heading to a specific region and have questions, I encourage you to reach out.

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First off, I think it’s safe to say the majority of wine writers have never worked in wine retail, directly with actual customers. And it shows. There’s a big gap between writers, wine experts, and real customers. A lot of wine writers aren’t writing for the general public. Their audience is mostly other wine professionals, even if they believe otherwise.

This is where the disconnect happens. People share their opinions confidently, but they don’t know the reality of what is happening in wine shops. You can read trend reports and financial articles endlessly, but that won’t connect you to the real customer. Understanding why and how they buy wine is key, and the only way to truly learn that is by selling it directly to them.

I didn’t start my career life in wine, but I’ve spent years working in it from all sides: wine retail, on the sales floor with customers, distributor sales, buying, and managing wine shops. I know how people shop and what actually gets them to pick up a bottle.

And as much as wine writers I respect and admire want to dismiss tasting notes and call them boring or unnecessary, they matter. They matter a lot. The same goes for ratings, but let’s not even go there today.

From my experience, six out of ten customers depend on tasting notes and descriptions as much as they do on ratings when choosing what to buy. If they are not reading the shelf talkers we create in the shop, they are on their phones looking up reviews on Vivino. They want some kind of guidance, even if it’s imperfect.

I think it’s short-sighted to make broad claims against tasting notes (and ratings), especially if you’ve never worked directly with customers. Understanding their experiences is key. I say this as someone who doesn’t even like traditional tasting notes. I, like many others, think they are boring. But it isn’t about me, at least on the sales side of wine.1

Even a simple descriptor can make a difference. If someone sees “coconut” on a wine tag and they hate coconut, they will immediately say so. That moment opens the door to a real conversation. We can talk about where that coconut flavor comes from. We can help them understand oak, flavor, and what they might enjoy instead. Without that descriptor, that conversation never happens. In fact, they may dismiss that grape entirely in the future.

Wine writers tend to place a lot of trust in the people selling wine to consumers. In my experience, that trust is often misplaced. I’ve worked in wine shops, big and small, across the country, and the reality is inconsistent at best. It’s a low-paying job, and when people aren’t supported or invested, the level of knowledge and care can suffer.

I don’t think many wine professionals realize that most customers are walking into shops with little to no real guidance. At the last shop I worked at, almost everyone on staff knew very little about wine or even how to sell. They were hired because they were affordable and flexible, not because they had experience or training. And that’s not unusual.

There are some incredible shops with knowledgeable, passionate staff, but they are the exception. The reality is that many retail wine jobs simply don’t pay enough to keep experienced people around. When places like McDonald’s or even a car wash offer better pay, and even health insurance plans, people who care about wine eventually have to leave just to make a living. That’s exactly why tasting notes, ratings, and all the things wine professionals love to criticize still matter. They give customers something to rely on when real guidance isn’t there.

Remixing the tasting note

A few weeks ago at the Wine Writers’ Symposium, we had a writing exercise that tackled the dreaded tasting note. Now, you know my opinion from reading the beginning of this article. So here is the fun part for wine writers who are not thrilled with what I wrote above. There still is a place for updating the boring tasting note.

We were given a glass of red wine. We knew nothing about it, other than it was a red wine. We had three prompts earlier in our exercise which we wrote answers to. We then needed to describe the experience of tasting the wine without any wine descriptors and to use one of our answers from the prompts we were given earlier. You will most likely guess what I wrote for one of my prompt answers after reading my response.

My remixed tasting note of the unidentified red wine.

Sitting on a jam packed plane wearing my mask, I still can smell the dusty and stale cologne of the man two rows ahead of me. Whatever his intention, the man has no clue what an appropriate amount of cologne is. None. There is never an appropriate amount. The fact I am stuck behind this dank, damp, and oddly bright smell makes me wish I never boarded. Did he use rubbing alcohol to make the cologne last longer? How can it be bright but also be so dank and stale? Too much age? I guess it clearly was the right amount for him. However, I prefer balance and far less rubbing alcohol making my nose twitch. If I must have a smell near me at all. Maybe as I walk away once we have landed the smell will go away quickly. One can only hope. Or pray. But the longer I sit behind him, the more I now smell a slightly odd cedar plank. The cheap ones the grocery store puts their leftover almost rancid salmon on and sell it for thirty dollars a pound.

So, I took the brief to an extreme. But honestly it was the first thing that came out as I sipped the wine blindly. After some of us shared, we were told the wine was a Sangiovese. We did not know the year or producer, thankfully, I despise criticizing hard working winemakers. If you don’t know this about me, it is a bit shocking, but Sangiovese is a grape I do not like. I have tried so many, high end, middle of the road, many producers, even the Super Tuscans people rave about. For whatever bizarre reason, my palate does not agree with the grape. So it makes sense I had such a negative reaction to tasting the wine.

The interesting thing is that two other fellows who shared had a negative reaction as well. However, someone else adored it. We all have such different palates. For me, that is why the purpose of the tasting note for the customer is absolutely necessary to be boring, simple and to the point. But truly, if you write unique tasting notes, I am so excited to read them. I think other wine professionals are the audience that craves the unique tasting note. And maybe even those customers that also want to read a boring tasting note when buying wines. There is a place for both the boring standard tasting note and the remixed versions.

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I would love to hear opinions on this topic, please comment if you want to share. Especially if you are a wine customer, lover, but do not work in the industry. Your opinions are seriously what I want to hear!

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From July 27 to August 3, 2027, I will be joining Travel Key hosts Anne and Patrick Murphy as the Portuguese wine specialist on AmaWaterways’ 7 night Enticing Douro river cruise, sailing round trip from Porto through the breathtaking Douro Valley.

This experience will go beyond the standard AmaWaterways itinerary, with additional opportunities created specifically for our group.

As part of our group on board the ship, we will be hosting private wine tastings, exclusive winery experiences, and special conversations about Portuguese wine and travel throughout the journey. I will also be available throughout the cruise to answer any questions about Portuguese wine, the country’s wine regions, and traveling in Portugal.

If you love wine, food, beautiful landscapes, and unforgettable travel experiences, this trip was made for you.

Important Booking Dates and Early Pricing

There are a few important details to know if you are thinking about joining us.

The best part is that you only need a $400 deposit to secure your cabin, and the final payment is not due until April 28, 2027, just 90 days before departure.

There is a discount of $250 per person, so booking early secures the best price and the best suite availability.

Cabins fill quickly on Douro cruises, so early booking really matters. Here are the deck plans so you can get a clear picture of which room you’d like to book.

Prices start at $5,379 per person in E class, going to $9,578 per person for the suite.

The Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Porto – Welcome Aboard + Private Wine Tasting

Your journey begins in Porto, the romantic “City of Bridges”, where vibrant riverfront buildings meet historic wine cellars. Board your ship and settle in as your Douro adventure officially begins. This evening features a private wine tasting led by Kate Reuschel, who will introduce a selection of Portuguese wines paired with the evening’s meal.

Day 2: Régua – Palaces & Gardens

In Peso da Régua (often called the capital of the Douro Valley), visit the elegant Mateus Palace and stroll through some of Portugal’s most beautiful gardens - a peaceful introduction to the region’s aristocratic past.

Day 3: Vega de Terrón – Castelo Rodrigo or an Exclusive Winery Excursion

Cross into Spain and explore Castelo Rodrigo, a fortified hilltop village with medieval walls, steep cobbled streets, and sweeping valley views. Ready to get out and explore? Active travelers can opt to hike up for a more adventurous approach, followed by a tasting of regional fare. You may also choose to join an exclusive winery excursion that Kate is planning especially for our group. Additional details will be shared soon.

Day 4: Salamanca, Spain or an Exclusive Winery Excursion

Today you will have a choice to do a guided excursion to Salamanca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built of glowing golden sandstone. Wander historic university buildings, admire the ornate House of Shells, step inside the New Cathedral, and soak in the vibrant atmosphere of Plaza Mayor, one of Spain’s most beautiful squares. You may also choose to join an exclusive winery excursion that Kate is planning especially for our group. Additional details will be shared soon.

Day 5: Pinhão – Quintas, Wine & River Views

Returning to Portugal, journey to Pinhão, located in the heart of port wine country. Delight in a special lunch at Quinta da Avessada, featuring traditional entertainment and interactive displays about Douro winemaking. The afternoon continues with tastings at a local quinta, allowing you to sit back and enjoy genuine vinho do porto straight from the maker.

Day 6: Régua & Lamego – Pilgrimage Paths & Portuguese Flavors or an Exclusive Winery Excursion

Visit Lamego, where the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies is located. Adventurous visitors can embark on a guided hike up the tiled steps, while others may opt for a more leisurely experience. The group comes together to sample local delicacies such as bôlas (savory bread with smoked ham), presunto, and Portuguese sparkling wine, culminating in a lunch at a traditional country estate. You may also choose to join an exclusive winery excursion that Kate is planning especially for our group. Additional details will be shared soon.

Day 7: Porto – Tiles, Tastings & Illuminations

Head back to Porto for a guided tour of its UNESCO-listed historic district, featuring the cathedral and the famous São Bento railway station adorned with blue-and-white tile murals. Enjoy an afternoon of shopping or port wine tasting, before concluding our journey with a magical evening cruise along Porto’s illuminated riverfront.

Please note that the itinerary may change slightly as we finalize plans for our private wine tasting excursions closer to the departure date.

This itinerary blends:

• Immersive vineyard experiences

• Historic cities and UNESCO sites

• Authentic port tastings

• Our own private winery excursions

• Active hiking options for curious explorers

• Boutique river cruising with AmaWaterways’ award-winning signature service

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July 27, 2027 to August 3, 2027

Limited Availability

Pre and Post Land Extensions Available

If this journey sounds like something you would love to experience, please send me a message for more information or to reserve your cabin. I would truly enjoy sharing this trip with you. Remember, it only takes a $400 deposit to secure your cabin. And if you know someone who would enjoy this experience, please feel free to share it with them.

Email me at survivesonwine@gmail.com or leave me a comment here and I’ll give you all the information you still need, or help you book!

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Wine without art is a bland, basic, and utterly uninspiring beverage. And wine without science can be complete chaos. All you have to do is look at some of the natural wines trying to keep all science out of wine. They’re undrinkable. Art and science blend in a way that makes wine what it is. It’s why poets, wine writers, and novelists can wax poetic with tasting notes and it never gets old to the reader. It’s what makes it such a conversation starter.

Wine needs science to make sense. To work. Science decides when to harvest, during the day, or at night. These decisions are scientific, not made on a whim. The same goes for fermentation temperature, how to age, how long to age, and which yeasts to use. All those choices would be completely lost if wine were only about art.

Yet, you need the art to balance out the science and make it exciting. Art gives wine expression. When winemaking combines art and science, it changes how you perceive the wine. The grape and region shape your expectations, but the winemaker can surprise you. It can be incredibly exciting. But without it, you get exactly what you expect. Nothing more, nothing less. Predictable. Not unique.

If wine were just science, we’d miss the joy, creativity, and surprise that make it worth writing about. It would be technically correct but emotionally flat. And if wine were only art, we’d lose the structure and dependability that make it what it is. It would fall apart before it ever made it to the glass. Take away one or the other, and wine stops being wine. It becomes either chaos or calculation. The beauty of it all is how those two sides meet in the middle, creating something that’s both dependable and endlessly surprising.

I cannot wait to tell you about my experience at the symposium. I am still reflecting and digesting what I learned. I am extremely grateful for getting a chance to be a Fellow and look forward to the weeks ahead to share my experience with you all.

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What are the odds that in Indianapolis, Indiana, I’d get to meet a Portuguese winemaker I’ve admired since the very beginning of my wine journey. Slim to none. Indianapolis isn’t exactly a market known for getting too many winemakers from outside of Italy or France visiting. And yet, it happened. Thanks to an amazing sales rep from B-Side Selections. It helped that all the local wine reps know I am the only person in Indiana who specializes in Portuguese wines. I mean, that may be the case for almost the entire country1 as most people in wine diversify. Not I. I mean, don’t get me wrong, I drink a lot of wines from outside of Portugal, but I rarely write about them. I stick to my little Portuguese niche.

This past fall, I got to host Pedro Ribeiro, the co-owner and winemaker at Herdade do Rocim, for a wine tasting. Herdade do Rocim was started by the grandfather of his wife, Caterina Viera. Pedro and Caterina have been a winemaking dream team since he joined Rocim in 2013. Caterina now focuses more on viticulture and Pedro on winemaking. He, and his wife, are some of the most well known and respected winemakers in Portugal. It was such a privilege to meet him.

The focus at Herdade do Rocim is not only about making beautiful wines. They focus on the sustainability of their land, but also the sustainability of the region. Their viticulture and winemaking are focused with a respect for tradition, especially the ancient practices of the Alentejo region. They use modern cellar techniques and work with talha wines. Using clay amphorae to ferment and age wines is a process that boosts their purity, texture, and gives the wine a strong sense of place. These methods are not about nostalgia or trend chasing. They are part of a long local history, which enables the wines to develop in a natural manner and to clearly and subtly reflect the vineyards and grape varieties.

And for those looking at the photo above, yes, we did have the tasting in a donut shop because in Indianapolis we keep it classy… due to liquor licensing issues.

You may know that I write for the Wine XP blog. Herdade do Rocim is one of their winery partners. I’ve had the privilege of writing about the wines and the winery before. I’ve been able to enjoy a lot of the Rocim portfolio the past few years as well, but meeting Pedro in person changed everything. Hearing his passion, understanding why he chooses certain vineyard sites, and watching him speak with such joy to a room full of strangers made it all click. It was one of my most memorable wine moments of 2025.

For a lot of wine writers reading this, moments like this probably feel routine. For me, they are not. I don’t get to travel to Portugal very often, or really travel much at all. When I do, it is to see my elderly in-laws. Wine doesn’t pay enough to keep me on the road, and for someone with health issues, press trips aren’t realistic for me. Most of the travel I do comes out of my own pocket, so when something like this happens, it means a lot to me. I don’t take it lightly. But enough about me. Let’s talk about Pedro’s wines.

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I’m going to bet most of you have never heard of Encruzado. Don’t feel weird about that; I hadn’t heard of it either until I started doing a deep dive into Portuguese wines. It’s nearly impossible to buy in America, even online. It either is always “sold out” or it is not an option. So fear not, you have another excuse to get yourself to Portugal!

Encruzado is the benchmark white wine of the Dão region. While the majority of encruzado plantings are found in the Dão, limited plantings of encruzado can be found in the surrounding regions.

Encruzado is one of the most important white grapes in Portugal. I’d say partly due to its aging potential and partly due to the fact that it can make very elegant and complex high-quality wines. It’s a grape that is hard to compare it to anything else. It really stands out from everything I’ve experienced before. I also feel like when we compare wines to each other we dumb their uniqueness down. I know I am guilty of doing this, but I’m trying to be more mindful to stop doing it.

Encruzado typically features aromas of lemon, apples, and stone fruit. You’ll also find hints of grapefruit and rose petals. It has a crisp minerality and a salty finish. The wines possess mouthwatering acidity and have a body ranging from medium to full. You’ll find unoaked and oaked versions of the wine. Both styles are lovely. Depending on how the winemakers make the wines, you may also find them to be creamy with hints of spice and smoke. In the unoaked versions, the wines are fresh, crisp, and full of vibrant fruit flavors. These white wines are exciting because they have the potential to age for years. Over time, they become unique, complex, and beautiful. In aged encruzado wines, you can find flavors of hazelnuts, vanilla, resin, and honey. The wines can be spectacular, young or old, unoaked or oaked.

The grape thrives in the Dão because of the long, hot summers and cool nights. Winters here can be tough and unpredictable. However, they also create ideal conditions for great wines. Granite mountains protect the area on three sides. Granite happens to be the exact soil type to make encruzado thrive. Granite drains well, which adds to the wine’s mineral quality. It also adds structure to the wine. In the eastern area of the region, there is slate soil, which is also ideal for encruzado to thrive. This soil leads to salinity and structure in the wines.

When you come across an encruzado wine, think about its minerality, acidity, and salinity to help you choose the perfect food pairings. It pairs perfectly with shellfish, grilled fish, poultry, and creamy pasta dishes.

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What I love most about wine is the connection. It connects us to people, to land, to things that are so incredibly special that if we don’t take a moment to appreciate them, what was the point of it all? I don’t drink for the buzz. I actually hate that feeling. I drink because I adore everything about wine.

I want to have an experience each time I let the liquid touch my tongue. Each time I swirl a glass I get giddy with excitement at the aromas that are about to lift out of the glass into my nose and start my journey of experiencing that wine.

This year I drank a lot less than usual, with surgery and heart medication adjustments. But even so, it was a year of memorable wine experiences. I did a roundup of my top wines of the year. I have a limited budget for wine; I tend to stick to the under $30 range, but I treat myself to a splurge wine from time to time. I do currently buy 95% of the wines I drink myself. I do accept samples from wineries, but I’m quite selective. I only want to write about wines I enjoy, with no obligation. The list below doesn’t include wines I tasted with wine reps, winemakers, or trade tastings. It includes wines I opened at home or that friends shared with me over food and great conversation.

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In no particular order:

Château de Nalys Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Vin 2016- $120

Blandy’s 10 Year Old Malmsey- $50, gifted

Herdade do Rocim Rosé Mariana Vinho 2024- $16

Aldeia de Cima, Myndru 2021- $94, gifted

Quinta de Cidrô Douro Gouveio- $20

Quinta de Cidrô Douro Alvarinho- $20

Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières Rouge 2022- $20

Casa do Barroso Padeiro Rosé 2023- $29

O Estrangeiro Red 2022- $44

Prats & Symington Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro 2020- $99

Broadbent 2007 Douro Red- no price on this, Bartholomew Broadbent shared this with me

Quinta de Lourosa 2018 Espumante Tinto- $34

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Zweigelt 2021- $18

Lucien Albrecht Reserve Gewurztraminer 2021- $18

Filipa Pato Baga “Dinamica” Tinto 2024- $19

CVNE Monopole Blanco 2023- $17

Oceânico Arinto dos Açores by Rocim White 2022- $44

Santorini Assyrtiko 2023- $33

Herdade da Lisboa Convés Brut Branco 2020- $30

Three moments stand out this year, all brought to life because of wine. Hosting a tasting with Pedro Ribeiro was an absolute honor, and attending a Port and Madeira Masterclass with Bartholomew Broadbent was another highlight. Meeting both of these men reminded me why I love this industry so much. Don’t worry, I will share more about that soon. I also shared some beautiful Portuguese bottles with my in-laws, these memories feel even more precious now. The next time we visit Virginia Beach, my father-in-law will be in memory care, so those evenings sharing wine with him mean more than I can really put into words.

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So I made a quick video to get straight to the point. The best wine for Thanksgiving is the one you’re excited to open. End of story.

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This time of year, wine pairing advice gets very loud. Drink this with turkey, drink that with stuffing, absolutely not that with pumpkin pie. But here’s the truth. Most people just want wines they genuinely enjoy. That matters far more than any expert’s pairing list.

At every wine shop I’ve worked in across the country, customers reach for the wines they already know they love. Their familiar favorites, the same bottles they buy every Thursday. Those wines, they make their holidays better. And honestly, that matters more than whatever we think they should be pouring for Thanksgiving.

If a customer picks something that those of us who work in wine may give side-eye to, who cares. Get rid of snobbery, please do not be intimidating and absolutely no lecturing your WSET facts explaining why their wine won’t pair well. We should never make someone feel bad for their choices. Instead, offer alternatives that are similar in style, but might please more people. Not pushy, but in a way that makes them feel validated by their choice. At the end of the day, though, the best wine for your holiday is the wine you want to drink. Period.

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In case you are wondering, here’s what we’re grabbing from our own stash this year. We always save wine for “special occasions” which means at some point we need to actually drink them. Holidays make a perfect excuse. We may use a Coravin to be able to have a little from a few bottles. It’s Thanksgiving, why not. We’ve almost made it through another year (barely). We deserve the wine we love not the wine we feel pressured to drink.

White:

CVNE Monopole Blanco - $17 (oh yes, I love Spanish wines also friends and this one is a winner)

Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco White - $29

Rosé:

Rocim Mariana Rose - $16

Red:

FIlipa Pato Dinamica Baga - $20

Manz Pomar do Espírito Santo Cheleiros Reserva 2020 Vinho Tinto - $35

Dessert:

Blandy’s 10 Year Bual - $35

Quetzal Rich White Vinho Licoroso - $50

Cockburn’s 2015 Vintage Port- $70

Let me know what you are opening for the holiday! I would love to hear.

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Of course, I am bringing you a Portuguese wine. This will be a different and more detailed write-up about the wine. It’s not just any Portuguese wine. It’s a high-end, special, and luxurious wine from the Alentejo region. I usually don’t drink luxury wines, but this one was kindly sent by Colangelo & Partners. They can send me all the Portuguese wines they want in the future because it’s amazing! This wine is stunning.1

The wine

Herdade Aldeia de Cima, Myndru 2021

I shared a visual tasting note about the wine earlier this fall, you can find for free below.

Herdade Aldeia de Cima is an estate in Portugal’s Alentejo, run by Luisa Amorim. Yes, that Amorim, you know, the family behind the cork empire. Luisa is a skilled entrepreneur with a strong vision. She wants to put Portugal on the map for its high-end, terroir-driven wines. At the same time, she respects the region’s deep viticultural heritage.

The Herdade Aldeia de Cima winery is in its original 1953 building. This traditional boutique winery focuses on diverse aging methods. It focuses on the unique traits of Alentejo’s 36 micro-terroirs. These include a range of soils and native grape varieties.

The estate sets a new standard for sustainable viticulture. Luisa chose a unique terroir near cork forests, vital for biodiversity. She carefully planned vineyard zones, built terraced vineyards, and planted native grape varieties. No detail is too small for Luisa. She selects the right rootstock and uses white sheep and bees to support the land. Her holistic approach ensures every bottle reflects the essence of this special place.

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Hugo Silva is the man behind Green Odyssey Tours, a new wine tourism company based in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region. His background is completely rooted in hospitality. After graduating from the Hotel and Tourism School, he went on to complete a master’s degree in Hotel Management. Over the past decade, he’s worked in hotels in a variety of roles. From receptionist and reservations agent to bartender, waiter, recruitment technician, and assistant manager.

After completing his WSET in wine, Hugo pursued one of his greatest passions: teaching. For the last three years, he’s been instructing students in the Restaurant and Bar Technician course at a secondary school and the Hotel Management course at his alma mater, the Hotel and Tourism School. Beyond the classroom, he’s provided training and consultancy to hotels, travel agencies, and restaurants throughout northern Portugal, sharing his expertise and love of hospitality and wine.

Hugo Silva loves to travel. He enjoys meeting new people and exploring different cultures. He also likes exchanging ideas on various topics. He thrives on learning something new every day. Working in wine tourism lets him do just that, connecting with people from all over the world and from all walks of life. Running his own company has always been his dream. With Green Odyssey Tours, he gets to do the work he loves. He meets people, shares his passion for the region, and shows visitors the beauty of Vinho Verde.

What Green Odyssey offers

Hugo’s main focus is to show off his region and all of its beauty to tourists.

Hugo says,

The focus was always on showcasing my region and all its splendor while clients enjoyed truly authentic and local experiences, outside the mainstream.

The tours are private, accommodating groups of 2 to 6 people. This allows you to enjoy everything at your own relaxed pace. This is something particularly noteworthy. You receive complete access to immerse yourself in the tour you choose.

While the tours are carefully designed to highlight the best experiences for each type of guest, there’s flexibility to make adjustments.

Hugo says,

Although the tours have been designed with the aim of compiling the best and most appropriate experiences for each segment of the public, it is possible for customers to adjust part of these tours to suit them, for example, if they think the buggy ride is too adventurous, they can change it to a walking tour on the historic center with wine tasting at the Alvarinho Museum, without changing the final price.

That level of flexibility is rare, and it’s one of the ways Hugo’s new tour company truly stands out. I’m excited to see it succeed.

Wine tour itinerary

A typical day with Green Odyssey Tours starts around 8 a.m. and wraps up around 7 p.m. From the moment your day begins, every detail is taken care of. You will be picked up right where you’re staying and start the day with a visit to a panoramic viewpoint in Viana do Castelo, where the landscape is simply breathtaking.

Next comes the wine portion of the day, starting with a tasting of six wines paired with regional snacks. Afterward, you’ll head to a local restaurant, don’t worry, this isn’t a tourist-trap spot. This is an authentic, delicious experience that will have you falling in love with the food and region. The day isn’t over yet! You’ll continue to another wine tasting with four more wines, again paired with regional snacks, before heading back to your accommodation, full, happy, and completely in love with the Vinho Verde region.

Make sure to save this for your next trip to Portugal. Hugo’s tours are a must.

Next week, I’ll be sharing the full story behind Aldeia de Cima for paid readers. You won’t want to miss it. Check out my visual tasting note below from this past week’s post about their Myndru wine.

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Tinta Cão is a bit of a high-maintenance grape, but hear me out. This native Portuguese grape is fussy, late-ripening, and gives tiny yields. Pick them too early, and the wine can end up flat or a little harsh. It takes a grower with vision and immense patience to make it shine. But when it does, especially in a Port blend, it stands out like nothing else.

Farmers have grown it in the Dão and Douro Valley regions since the 16th century. In the late 1700s, Lacerda Lobo, one of Portugal’s early wine experts, said tinta cão belonged in the Douro Valley. Around the same time, Rebello da Fonseca, an ancestor of the famous Fonseca Port family, wrote that this grape was “one of the varieties from the Douro which makes good wine.” By the early 1800s, tinta cão had earned its place as a key ingredient in all great Ports.

Today, it is actually quite a rare grape to plant, with only 330 hectares in Portugal. The grape is risky. It ripens late and does best in cooler, higher vineyard sites. Autumn rains can cause significant damage to the harvest. This is why many growers turned to easier grape varieties to plant after phylloxera and the hardships of the late 1800s. But those who kept tinta cão vines received something extraordinary as a reward.

Tinta Cão grows best in small vineyards. Here, workers can carefully prune the vines. This helps the grapes ripen fully. The wines are full-bodied with deep color and elegant tannins. The aromas primarily consist of darker fruits, accompanied by floral notes and occasional hints of spice and earth. When grapes are perfectly ripe, the wines have a great balance of acidity, sugar, and alcohol. They age with finesse and gain layers of complexity as time passes.

Interesting facts

• The name means "red dog" in Portuguese, though nobody knows exactly why.

• You can usually identify tinta cão vineyards by their yellowish leaves and small, perfect grape clusters.

• The vines thrive in poor granite or schist soils and love a southwest-facing slope.

• It is one of the five noble grapes used in port production.

For my paid subscribers, I have added two wine maps below for you. The Douro and the Dão. Feel free to download and use yourselves, all I ask is for the credit. Or you can buy me a coffee as thanks.

I may be biased, but art and wine for me go hand in hand. Wine is a form of art, shaped by science. If you took away the creative side, you’d left with something predictable, almost clinical and frankly quite boring. The combination is what makes it fantastic and unique.

But I’m putting the wine aside and focusing on the art. I want to spotlight a few wineries in Portugal known for their abundant creativity and exceptional wine. If you are an art lover like me, you need to add these to your next Portugal itinerary.

Quinta dos Vales

Set in the picturesque Algarve, Quinta dos Vales is not just a stunning vineyard. It also boasts over one hundred pieces of art of various sizes and materials. Owner Karl Heinz Stock says that art was one of the founding elements when they decided to open the estate. Many of the pieces are by the owner, Karl Heinz Stock, who has been an artist and sculptor most of his life.

Karl knew he wanted and needed to combine his love of art and wine. He believes that art and wine have a similar characteristic they share, and that is patience. He is not wrong there; both need incredible patience and skill. I completely agree with him. Yet, both also embrace a person who possesses natural creativity and enjoys pushing boundaries.

The estate is 44 hectares, 19 of which are dedicated to vineyards. They have three wine labels, Marquês dos Vales, Dialog and Grace Vineyards. The labels are of course designed by the owner, Karl. The property is as stunning as you would expect. The vineyard and the art create a unique contrast that somehow feels perfectly natural. It’s as if the artwork was always meant to be part of the space, so much so that it's hard to imagine the winery without it.

You can visit the estate and have the most perfect day combining nature, art and wine. To easily book your curated wine experience click here.

Quinta do Quetzal

Quinta do Quetzal is a gorgeous estate near Vidigueira in the Alentejo wine region. The winery was started by Dutch art collectors Cees and Inge de Bruin in 2006. When I say collectors, I mean that they had one of the most incredible private art collections in the Netherlands. They don’t just focus on well known international artists. They also take pride in bringing in local art curators in to showcase local artists.

The estate covers 52.5 hectares, with 30 dedicated to red grapes and 20 to white. The main building is built of white schist. It stands out beautifully against the green countryside. Schist buildings are found throughout the Alentejo. They create a bold contrast with the landscape.

Their wines are amazing, and the winery has plenty to enjoy for guests to do. But it’s their passion for art and the humanities that really makes them stand out.

Their goal is to create a contemporary art program that invites the public in and gives anyone curious the chance to learn. They feature works from their private collection, rotating artist exhibitions, and pieces on loan from major institutions like MoMA in New York, the Tate in London, the Reina Sofia in Madrid, the Hermitage in Saint Petersburg, and the Serralves Foundation in Portugal. It is truly a winery not to miss on your Portugal travels. Filipa Jörg, along with a communications agency, is responsible for the design of their wine labels.

You can book various winery tours and tastings of course, give yourself enough time either before or after the tour to really take in the gorgeous property. I always recommend doing the one that gives you the most. Spend a tiny bit extra and indulge. It is worth it. Book a tour at Quinta do Quetzal here.

Ode Winery

Ode Winery is located in the quaint picturesque village of Vila Chã de Ourique, in the Tejo wine region about 45 minutes north of Lisbon. The vineyards span 96 hectares. One goal when they opened the winery at the end of 2021 was to bring a place of peace for people escaping the city. That is absolutely what you feel when you get here.

They follow organic, sustainable, and regenerative practices at the vineyard. This careful attention to the vines allows them to make exceptional wines year after year. But it isn’t the wine I want to highlight today. It is their stunning labels.

When reaching out to the winery to get more information about their unique labels, this is what their communications manager Arrigo Araujo shared.

An ode is a poem, a lyrical expression of emotions. ODE Winery is precisely that: a tribute to the Tejo region, to nature, and to the wine that is born there.

From day one, our ambition was to avoid the obvious. We chose a short, simple, and direct name with the same meaning in several languages, allowing for immediate understanding and perception. This essence could not fail to be present on our labels as well.

Created by designer Celina Cabral, ODE Winery's labels were designed to stand out and convey, at first glance, the values that define us. Each one subjectively, sensorially, and synthetically conveys the experiences that each wine offers. Their aesthetics are inspired by the way sunlight spills over ODE Farm, filtering through cork trees and vineyards throughout the different seasons.

Two wines, however, follow a different path. ODE Única, a young wine in the Beaujolais Nouveau style, is the result of a partnership now in its second year with the Universities of Fine Arts in Lisbon and Porto. Every year, students are challenged to create labels inspired by the characteristics of the wine, ensuring that each edition has a completely new image. ODE Enóloga, a selection of the best grapes from each year's harvest, has a more technical label, representing the technical work of our winemaker, Maria Vicente.

We believe that the label is the customer's first contact with the wine. Therefore, it fills us with satisfaction to know that, when tasting it, you identify exactly the sensations and quality that the image already promised.

Ode was awarded by Mutatante Awards 2nd edition for their wine label on ODE Única 2024. The label was the result of a competition run in partnership with the Faculty of Fine Arts at the University of Lisbon. The project invited young artists and designers to bring their creativity to the wine world by capturing the essence of each edition. The winning design by student Ana Maria Araújo stood out for its ability to reflect the wine’s lightness and youthful energy through her artwork. Such great news that for ODE Única 2025 label, Ode has partnered again with the Faculty of Fine Arts of the University of Porto.

There are quite a few tours you can do at Ode Winery, I recommend the wine workshop or the harvest experience since we are gearing up towards that part of the year! You can view and book tours at Ode here.

Howard’s Folly

In the heart of historic Estremoz, northeast of Evora in the Alentejo, Howard’s Folly is the first urban winery in the Alentejo wine region. British entrepreneur Howard Bilton teamed up with award-winning Australian winemaker David Baverstock to make incredible wines in a space that radiates creativity. The two of them work so well together because they have a shared passion for showcasing the best of Portugal’s grape varietals, and a commitment to giving back through the Sovereign Art Foundation. The Sovereign Art Foundation is an arts-based charity supporting underprivileged children giving them access to art classes. These classes provide therapy, support, and opportunities that many of these kids would not otherwise have.

Art isn’t just decoration here, it fuels their entire project. They use artwork from the Sovereign Art Foundation winners as well as world famous artists. To view some of their gorgeous labels, click here.

Howard’s Folly is housed in a transformed warehouse. The winery also houses the stylish Folly restaurant and a small gallery. Their vineyard covers 7 hectares of 20 to 25-year-old vines, in the Portalegre sub-region. Howard's Folly also works with local farmers who manage small plots of ancient vines. These vines produce tiny yields of intensely flavorful grapes that are perfect for making top-tier wines. In the Monção and Melgaço, a sub-region in Vinho Verde, the winery focuses on Alvarinho. The wines are bright and floral with crisp minerality and lively acidity.

They offer a few unique winery experiences, I highly recommend the winemaking/blending workshop, but all are enjoyable. You can book your visit here.

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This article is in collaboration with Wine XP. To find the Portuguese translation head to their website here.

Howards Folly and Quinta do Quetzal wines are available in some states in the United States. I know for a fact both are available in Viriginia. You can purchase both at Tinto Wine & Cheese in Virginia Beach.