Inspiration never lacks. I don’t feel the pressure to make it perfect, or tinker and fuss over the details as I do with much of my recipe writing. Did this solve the classic what’s-for-dinner problem? Is this worth their limited time? How can I make it quicker, easier, better, or use fewer ingredients in a clever way? For every week you trust me to bring you something you’ll find joy and pleasure in cooking, I don’t take that trust lightly.But his birthday meal is a flow state. Something kind of French, but not too heavy, he says, and light on the washing up, please (even on his day he will insist on helping with the dishes).

This was for him, but now it’s also for you. We all have someone worth celebrating, and sometimes that falls in the chaos and complexity of a midweek in August.

So, come along friends; we are nailing a midweek celebration meal that’s fancy but not too fussy. Steak — classic, timeless, fancy-occasion fare. Now, I toyed with a peppercorn-esque sauce, but landed on a sauce that’s a riff on one of my favourite sides from early on in this Substack. Onions, charred, then glazed. Sticky, jammy, savoury, the perfect pairing for a steak. Fries, always, of course. Then my fail-safe salad. THE salad. Which really is all about a perfect restaurant-style vinaigrette. Peppery, a touch of heat from good Dijon mustard, acidic and a little sweet. A drizzle of buttery steak pan juices, or sticky chicken drippings, rounds out all the flavours and makes the sauce cling to the leaves. This is the only dressing recipe you will ever need. Beloved by every client I have ever cooked for, it’s a cult classic for a reason.

Plate up and eat the lot outside if you can while the weather’s still good.

Steak with A Blistered Onion Jus

Serves 2 generously
Time: 15 mins prep, 55 mins cooking.
Ingredients
450g sirloin steak, at least 6cm thick
400g baby onions or banana shallots
Neutral oil, as needed
60g butter
1 tsp honey
25ml cognac
400ml chicken stock
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 garlic cloves
1 sprig thyme or rosemary
Small handful chives

Method

Remove the steak from the fridge and allow it to reach room temperature (about 30-40 minutes).

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Peel and halve 400g of baby onions or banana shallots, ensuring each half remains intact. Heat a large oven-safe stainless-steel pan over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the oil and place the onions cut-side down and let them char for 8-10 minutes until deeply golden and blackened in places.

Remove the pan from heat, add 30g butter. Drizzle in 1 tsp of honey, pour in 25ml cognac and 400ml chicken stock, season with salt and pepper, and roast with the lid on for 15-20 minutes OR until the onions are softening and glossy, but still maintain their shape. Then remove the lid, glaze the onions with the sauce and roast uncovered until sticky. Add a splash of water to the base of the pan if the sauce starts to catch and burn.

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a high heat, add a drizzle of oil and sear the steak on one side until a golden crust forms. Flip, then add 2 garlic cloves, thyme or rosemary, and the remaining butter to the pan. Baste the steak with the foaming butter until done to your liking. I like to cook mine to an internal temp of 45°C (115°F), then rest it up to 50°C (120°F).

Let the steak rest for 5 minutes, slice, and plate it with the jammy cognac onions dotted around.

Whisk the resting juices and drippings into the sauce that has formed below the onions, loosening with a splash of boiling water if need me to yield a spoonable sauce, then drizzle this around the steak. Garnish with chopped chives and serve with Garlic Parmesan Fries and a Bistro Salad (below)

Classic Bistro Salad, Perfectly Easy Vinaigrette

Serves 2, as a side • Time: 35 mins prep (mostly soaking the leaves), 5 mins cooking

Ingredients

Mixed crunchy salad leaves like chicory, gem lettuce, and lambs lettuce (about 200g total)
1 shallot, finely chopped
60ml apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 tsp honey
2 garlic cloves, divided
2 tsp Dijon mustard
180ml neutral oil
1 tbsp chopped chives or parsley
1 tbsp of onion jus and steak dripping from above (alt water, chicken jus, or orange or grapefruit juice work equally well)
20g breadcrumbs
A drizzle of olive oil
Grated Parmesan, to finish
Salt and pepper as needed

Notes: The dressing makes more than you need for one salad, so keep it in the fridge for up to a week.
Swap the Parmesan for crumbled feta or goat’s cheese and toasted nuts and seeds work in place of the crumb if you’re out of bread.

Method
Wash the 200g mixed salad leaves thoroughly to get any grit off, then submerge them in a large bowl of cold water with a tray of ice. Leave them to crisp up for 30 minutes.

Make the dressing. Finely chop the 1 shallot and combine with the 60ml apple cider vinegar and 1 tsp honey in a bowl. Add salt and pepper and grate in 1 of the 2 garlic cloves. Leave for 2-3 minutes. This will mellow the shallot and garlic out. Whisk in the 2 tsp Dijon mustard, then slowly whisk in the 180ml neutral oil in a steady stream until the dressing emulsifies and thickens. Stir through the 1 tbsp chopped chives or parsley and the 1 tbsp steak and onion jus from the above recipe, and set aside.

For the crunch, heat a small drizzle of olive oil in a pan over medium heat, grate in the remaining garlic clove, and tip in the 30g breadcrumbs. Toast, stirring often, until deep golden. Season with a pinch of salt, set aside.

Drain the leaves. Spin until very dry. Start building the salad in a wide, shallow bowl: bigger leaves like the gem lettuce at the bottom, then the rest layered in around and on top. As you go, drizzle over some of the dressing and scatter over grated Parmesan with each layer, along with a spoonful of the garlicky crumb.

Keep going until you’ve got a good high pile. Finish with a final drizzle of dressing, a generous grating of Parmesan, and the last of the crumb over the top.

Serve straight away, while the leaves still have their crunch.

The saying goes that Brits love to talk about the weather, and well …..its hot. My local park has given up. There isn't a green blade of grass left in it and it’s gone the colour (and honestly texture) of a digestive biscuit. Meanwhile there are wildfires? Is this the place to scream into the void about climate change, and North Sea drilling? The blood boils.

We got back last week from Portugal, and I came home craving and wanting to cook a chicken parm. I thought of frying chicken cutlets and simmering sauce in 34C, promptly changed course, and this is what came out instead. The elements of chicken parm, reimagined into a fresh, bright celebration of chicken and tomatoes.

Yes, it’s not a chicken parm in the traditional sense. No crumbed, fried, bubbling dish of cheese and tomato, which in this weather may actually be a small mercy.

Go forth and gather tomatoes at their absolute peak, the dark red ones, that are knobbly ones are best. Halve and grate them down on the box grater until you’re left holding a flat piece of skin and the bowl underneath has filled with rich red pulp. Drain it. Salt it. Olive oil, then sherry vinegar a little at a time until there’s a slight tang, and the tomato flavour shines brighter.

Burnished roasted thighs go on top, hot skin crackling, so the fat and the roasting juices run down into all that cold tomato and mingle. Hot on cold, fatty against sour. Sublime.

Peaches next. Ripe and cut chunky so you get a good mouthful rather than a measley sliver, tossed with quartered baby sundrop tomatoes, ribbons of basil, then and more oil, more vinegar. The vinegar isn’t there to make it sour, rather, it’s there to push the sweetness forward. Balance really. Bocconcini tossed through at the end, cold and creamy.

Finally, breadcrumbs, are tipped into the roasting tray while it’s still hot and scraped through everything the chicken left behind. Some of them go crisp and golden. Others catch a bit of reduced juice and turn into chewy, sticky little nubbins, half-crumb, half-caramelised chicken.

Right now, I cant think of a better plate of good mood food.

Happy cooking pals!

Jess x

(Not) Chicken Parm with Peaches

Juicy roast chicken with crisp skin, sweet tomatoes and peaches, creamy bocconcini and golden chicken-fat breadcrumbs.

Serves 3-4 • Time: 10-15 mins active prep, 40 mins cooking

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If I’m being honest, I’ve been sitting on this one for three years. Skopelos has become something of a family tradition starting with my parents, then my sister, and the more we go, the more convinced I am that it might just be one of the best-kept secrets in the Mediterranean.

It’s not Santorini. It doesn’t have Mykonos’s glamour. But it has something better: it has itself. An island that hasn’t been packaged up and sold to the masses, where locals still outnumber tourists (even in summer), and where you can actually feel like you’re on holiday rather than shepherding your way through a crowd.

Part of the Northern Sporades, Skopelos perches in the Aegean, accessible only by boat, which, yes, means a ferry ride, but that’s precisely the barrier that keeps the hordes away. Contrary to many Greek islands, it’s forested, it’s lush, and the water shimmers aquamarine and crystal-clear, so clear you can see straight to the pebbly bottom. The temperature is perfect for swimming. You’ll understand why your kids (and let’s be honest, you) will be desperate to go back in the moment you’ve dried off.

This is the place for people chasing a quieter pace, families with younger children, anyone who wants to eat incredibly well, swim in water that feels like a dream, and fully relax. After two immersive trips, here's my low down—my recommendations and those gathered from those more in the know.

So, without further ado, here’s what you need to know about Skopelos.

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Part two of my kitchen renovation series. As before: yes, it’s a collab, but these are products I chose for my own kitchen because they work. This edition is less “look at my kitchen” and more the thinking behind it. The simple design decisions that made a small space work much harder, and why they might be useful to you too. And this isn’t guesswork: As a private chef turned consultant, I have over a decade of experience cooking in hundreds of kitchens (big, small, domestic, professional, the occasional yacht galley) and I brought everything I’ve learned from working in them into designing my own.

1. Placement: think in bottlenecks

The number one thing in designing a kitchen is spotting the pinch points before they happen. You don’t want the toaster next to the kettle right next to where everyone picks up plates and glasses — because everyone needs to get to that spot at some point, and now they’re all queuing in the same square metre. Spread your stations. Glasses for example live near the water and the fridge, not in the middle of the cooking zone.

In my galley kitchen, the hob sits centrally on the left-hand side, the coffee machine has its own spot next to it, and the smart tap did away with the kettle altogether — one less thing pulling traffic through the room. The dishwasher sits right next to the sink, and next to the dishwasher, the unloading zone: a shallow drawer at counter level for cutlery, a deeper one below for crockery, and beneath those, two deep drawers for serving ware and platters. Everything gets put away in one step, no walking. And either side of the hob, utensil drawers - cooking tools exactly where the cooking happens. Clustering the appliances like the espresso machine and toaster around the hob, keep a nice swath of counter free and uncluttered for prep.

2. Skip the hood, lose the uppers

Right friends, THE hob. My old kitchen was dark. A low ceiling in the extension, withtoo much top-heavy cabinetry. Adding an overhead extractor would have left the new space feeling hemmed in. There is such a thing as too much storage. So I skipped the hood entirely and went for the Franke induction hob with a built-in vented extractor. It pulls steam and smoke down through the hob itself, it’s seriously powerful, and losing the overhead unit meant a floating shelf for my cookbooks and trinkets instead. It opens the space up. And the lost cabinetry space, its not as bad as you think…..

3. Drawers, not cupboards

Ditching upper cabinetry was the scarier call, but hear me out: upper cupboards become caverns. You can’t see into the higher shelves, and things just get lost. That was my old kitchen exactly- loads of useless cavernous voids, mostly on the upper level. Drawers solve this and I would recommend them every single time. Pull one out and you see everything top-down, which no cupboard void will ever do. I went tiered for aesthetics - big drawer fronts with drawers within drawers tall, deep ones for appliances (measure the height of the tall appliances), layered shallower ones for pantry bits I want to keep near by, cutlery, etc . I technically lost cabinetry in this redesign but gained a ton usable space, because the space is designed better. My applianced now like in the kitchen not in the garden office. You don’t need more cabinets, you need smarter ones.

4. The budget trick

IKEA internals, bespoke ply-and-Formica fronts from a local company — a far more custom look for less than the big kitchen retailers. Fair warning: IKEA’s design process is brilliant and the products are decent but delivery and install were a headache. If you can accept that trade for the price, it’s worth it. Go in with eyes wide open, and potentially source your own install team with good reviews.

5. Going induction and thinking about fingerprints

I’ll be honest, I was a gas girl. Full convert now. Instant, precise, ripping heat when you want it, and because induction puts energy directly into the pan base rather than the air around it, it’s far more efficient than gas. And with a baby in the house, not burning gas indoors was an easy call as indoor air quality from gas hobs is something a lot of parents are looking harder at these days.

Finish: My hob is matte black which was another very good choice. Appliances are touched, a lot! Consider the finish as much as the product itself. If you are buffing sticky fingerprints constantly from surfaces you are going to lose your mind.

6. What I’d do differently

I’m really happy with the choices I made. But there’s one glaring mistake: the utensil drawers aren’t deep enough. I went for the thinnest drawer profile either side of the hob, which is fine for cutlery, but cooking utensils are bulkier and now I’ve got spatulas catching on the drawer above and jamming it half-shut, which is exactly as annoying as it sounds. If I did it again, those drawers get one size deeper.

The second isn’t quite a mistake, more an honest trade-off: my tiles. I adore them but they’re light, and they show dirt. The kitchen opens straight onto the garden, so it’s a high-traffic zone, and even with door mats doing their best, footprints happen more than I’d like. I mop every single day. The silver lining with a baby crawling around is that at least I can see what needs cleaning but would I choose something more forgiving next time? Probably. Beautiful tiles are only beautiful for the twenty minutes after you’ve mopped.

Right — onto the food.

Growing up, barbecues were culturally important to us, and I have opinions. We dont have a BBQ yet, I am paralyzed by choice. So this recipe solves a very specific problem: smoky, sticky, barbecued chicken with no barbecue. A ripping hot cast iron pan, a pinch of smoked salt in the marinade, and properly charred veg blitzed into a creamy, herby green sauce get you real smoke and char with no wood in sight. It all sits over a smashed cucumber and radish salad, craggy edges drinking up the dressing. Its got big flavours, and is mostly hands-off, everything but the chicken can be done ahead. The bonus of a grill pan vs a BBQ- no BBQ to scrub!

Next week: A day in the life. How I develop recipes that work for every kitchen, plan shoots and film for a global appliance client (to be revealed) as they gear up to launch a new product. Not an AD, but thought you would appreciate seeing how the sausage is made.

Happy cooking pals!

Jess x

Blistered Chicken Thighs with Herby Green Sauce & Radish Cucumber Salad

Smoky, charred chicken thighs served over a crunchy smashed cucumber and radish salad with a creamy jalapeño-coriander green sauce.

Serves 4 • Time: 30 mins prep, 20 mins cooking (plus marinating)

Chicken

8 boneless skinless chicken thighs

2 cloves garlic

2 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tbsp paprika

1 lime

1½ tbsp gochujang or chilli paste

Salt (smoked salt preferably)

pepper and oil as needed

Herby Green Sauce

2 jalapeños

3 spring onions

A bunch of corriander

140g Greek yogurt

½ lime

Salt

Radish & Cucumber Salad

2 cucumbers

8 radishes

3 spring onions

Salt and pepper as needed

Method

Wash the 2 cucumbers, 8 radishes, 2 jalapeños, 6 spring onions and 30g coriander thoroughly and allow them to drain briefly over the sink. Position the Franke Chopping Board across the sink to create your prep station.

In a large bowl, combine the 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp ground cumin, 1 tbsp paprika, ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, juice of 1 lime, 1½ tbsp gochujang, 2 tbsp vegetable oil and 1 generous pinch salt. Add the 8 boneless skinless chicken thighs and toss until evenly coated. Leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes, ideally 2 hours.

Halve the 2 cucumbers lengthways and use a teaspoon to scrape out the soft seeded centres. Lightly smash the cucumber halves with a rolling pin or empty wine bottle until they crack and split. Cut into chunky bite-sized pieces and transfer to the Franke Stainless Steel Strainer Bowl. Season generously with salt and toss well. Smashing the cucumber creates craggy edges that absorb more dressing while adding extra texture. Salting draws excess moisture, and improvs the texture and flavour. Leave to drain into the sink while you continue prepping.

Using a Japanese mandoline on the Franke Chopping Board, thinly slice the 8 radishes as finely as possible.

Using the Ice Water function on the Franke Mythos Water Hub, fill a bowl with ice water. Add the sliced radishes and roughly one-quarter of the coriander, picked from the stems. Leave to crisp up while you cook the chicken.

Place a cast iron grill pan onto the Franke Mythos 2gether Ultra Edge Vented Hob Extractor and heat over a medium-high heat. Add the 2 jalapeños and 3 of the spring onions and cook without oil, turning occasionally, until deeply charred and softened.

Remove the vegetables and set aside. Lightly oil the grill pan and cook the marinated chicken in batches for 4–5 minutes per side, until lightly charred and cooked through. During the final minute of cooking, brush the chicken with any remaining marinade and allow it to cook off completely. Transfer to a tray and rest for 5 minutes.

Deseed then add charred jalapeños, charred spring onions, the remaining coriander (stems and all), 140g Greek yogurt and juice of ½ lime to a blender. Blend until smooth and creamy. Taste and adjust with salt, pepper or additional lime juice if needed.

Drain the cucumbers well and transfer them to a large bowl. Drain the radishes and coriander from the ice water and add them to the bowl. Thinly slice the remaining 3 spring onions and add them to the salad. Toss everything together and season with salt and black pepper to taste.

Spread a generous layer of green sauce across the base of a serving platter or individual plates. Pile the cucumber salad on top and arrange the chicken over the salad. Spoon over any resting juices from the chicken and finish with an extra drizzle of the green sauce.

Serve immediately.

Note: If you have smoked salt, add a pinch to both the marinade and the green sauce for an extra barbecue-style flavour. Harissa can be substituted for the gochujang, although gochujang gives the best balance of sweetness, spice and depth.

As I (im)patiently wait for the painters to come in, I thought it might be fun to showcase a few renovation bits — and why I feel they work so well in the small space. I’ve worked with Franke for a while now, and if you’ve been around for any length of time, you’ll know I don’t say yes to things I don’t actually use and rate highly, so when it came to redesigning my own kitchen, reaching out to them felt like an easy decision. This edition is the first of two I’m doing with them, walking through a handful of the products I specifically chose because they earn their place in a kitchen that sees a high volume of cooking and needs to be both aesthetic and highly functional. Yes, this is a collab, but I hope it steers you towards some products I genuinely love and think could find a place in your kitchen too. And if not, posts like this mean I can keep the recipe free, and everyone wins!

My space is a workhorse, and workhorse is the right word for it. This isn’t just a kitchen I cook dinner in on occasion — it’s where I shoot, and where I prep for private chef events for up to sixty people. It sees serious daily traffic. So when I redesigned it, three things mattered more than anything else: I wanted it light and bright, because I’m in there every single day and because it photographs so much better than my old one ever did; I wanted it functional; and even though this is easily the biggest kitchen I’ve had, I still needed to maximise every inch of counter and cupboard space — sixty covers doesn’t leave much room to spare.

Enter choice one: a sink fit for a chef’s kitchen — the Franke Box Pro. Now you may not be a chef but if you have a small kitchen this is a brilliant choice. I went stainless steel over a fleuted porcelain sink — it’s the material most proper chef’s kitchens are built on, and for good reason. I’ve had a porcelain sink, it was gorge, and I spent my life scrubbing it white with Bar Keepers Friend. Stainless resists staining in a way ceramic doesn’t. It’s hygienic, and it takes the daily hammering a working kitchen gives it far better than anything more decorative. What sold me on the Box Pro specifically, though, is that it’s not just a sink but a multi-tiered workstation. Being able to do a chunk of my veg prep directly over the sink, rather than it sprawling across the counter while I’ve got other things on the go, has freed up more usable space than I expected.

The Rollamat, strainer bowl and chopping board all work together, clipping on the rim, so I’m rinsing, chopping and draining in one spot rather than hopping between stations. Each week I find a different way to use it — a home for finished prep or offcuts from the chopping board, straining yoghurt, salting vegetables, cooling blanched veg, or filled with ice to keep seafood cold while processing it. The chopping board sits flush alongside it. Prep happens right here with trimmings, peelings and offcuts or finished prep pushed straight off the edge into the strainer.

The Mythos Water Hub tap earns its place for a similar reason — it gets things off the counter and out of the fridge. We ended up sacrificing a bit of fridge footprint to finally upgrade from an under-counter fridge I hated to a full-size one, so the fridge runs smaller than I’d ideally want, and between recipe testing and shoot ingredients, it’s always overflowing. A smart tap means no filter jug taking up a shelf for cold water, no kettle on the side (which, handily, the builders broke during the reno anyway), and no SodaStream to feed my love of sparkling water. Now, this is a premium purchase — but I’m completely obsessed with it, and so is everyone else who visits. If you have the cash to splash on a smart tap (there are a few out there and I’ve used them all), this one’s a 10/10 from me.

Right — onto the food.

This one’s healthy, fresh and bright, with a bit of a cabbage crush running through it (see also: Blistered Cabbage Alla Vodka) — bulked out with rice noodles, because I will find any excuse to put rice noodles in something. Twenty-odd minutes start to finish, wholesome enough to feel virtuous, but also enough going on to be interesting. Crispy salmon skin, a sweet-sour-salty vietnamese-ish dressing, good crunch. Big fan of this one.

Jess x

Crispy Skin Salmon with Grapefruit, Herb & Rice Vermicelli Salad

Fresh grapefruit, crisp herbs, rice noodles and perfectly cooked crispy-skinned salmon come together in this vibrant summer salad.

Serves 2 • Time: 20 mins

Salad
1 small bunch coriander (15g)
1 small bunch mint (15g)
¼ head green cabbage
1 pink grapefruit
1 cake rice vermicelli noodles
¼ cup roasted salted peanuts

Dressing
3 tbsp grapefruit juice
1 lime
1 red chilli
1 tbsp white sugar
2 tbsp fish sauce

Salmon
2 large salmon fillets, skin on
Salt
1–2 tbsp high-heat oil

Method

1. Fit the Rollamat into the Box Pro sink and set the strainer bowl in the far corner, with the chopping board slotted in next to it. Wash the 1 small bunch coriander and 1 small bunch mint thoroughly and let them drain briefly over the Rollamat.

2. Using the Ice Water function on the Mythos Water Hub, fill a bowl with ice water. Add the herbs and leave them to crisp up while you get on with everything else.

3. Cut the top and bottom from the 1 large pink grapefruit. Using a sharp knife, remove the peel and pith, then cut between the membranes to release the segments into a bowl. Squeeze the remaining membranes over a separate bowl to get roughly 3 tbsp juice for the dressing.

4. Combine the grapefruit juice with the juice of 1 lime, 1 red chilli, 1 tbsp white sugar and 2 tbsp fish sauce. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and set aside.

5. On the chopping board, finely shred the ¼ head green cabbage and push it straight off the edge into the strainer bowl.

6. Put the 1 cake rice vermicelli noodles into a heatproof mixing bowl. Using the Boiling Water function on the Mythos Water Hub, fill the bowl with boiling water and a generous pinch of salt, and leave the noodles to soften according to packet instructions. Drain and rinse under cold water, then set aside.

7. Remove the 2 large salmon fillets, skin on from their packaging and pat dry thoroughly with kitchen paper. Place skin-side down, season lightly with salt, and pat dry once more.

8. Heat a stainless steel frying pan on the Mythos Ultra Edge hob extractor over a medium-high heat for 2–3 minutes. Flick a few drops of water onto the surface — if they evaporate immediately, keep heating; if they bead and glide across the pan, it’s ready.

9. Reduce the heat slightly, add the 1–2 tbsp high-heat oil and place the salmon in skin-side down. If you have a fish weight, press it gently on top for the first minute for even contact with the pan.

10. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until the skin is deeply golden and crisp and releases easily from the pan. Flip and cook for a further 30 seconds to 1 minute depending on how you like it done, then rest briefly on a tray.

11. Lift the herbs from the ice water and pick the leaves from the stems.

12. In a large bowl, combine the noodles, cabbage, grapefruit segments, coriander, mint and ¼ cup roasted salted peanuts. Pour over roughly half the dressing and toss to coat, adding more to taste.

13. Divide the noodle salad between plates and top with the crispy salmon. Finish with an extra scattering of peanuts and serve immediately while the skin’s still crisp.

Note: Ruby grapefruit, blood orange or pomelo all work beautifully here. Adjust the chilli to suit your heat level.

A quick dispatch from a little Greek island in the Sporades, where we’ve been mooching about in a house on a hill overlooking the old town with the whole family. We while away the days in the perfect holiday rhythm: an early swim, a bougatsa (a flaky, custard-filled Greek pastry, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar) and a freddo at the local café, beach excursions and long lazy meals at the villa punctuated by naps, and pool G&Ts. Most nights we’re cooking together in the villa kitchen, usually something built around whatever looked good at the market - Skopelos cheese pies, seafood, watermelon salads, adorned with olive oil from the groves around the house. Cap it off with a wonder through town for loukoumades, glistening honey drenched greek donuts. The produce in the Mediterranean is always a treat.

Speaking of, the apricots here have been sensational. This is a little something I cooked last night as a lazy app for drinks and it’s such a good one. Creamy Greek feta, paired with roasted apricots and a little honey and chili. So easy you really don’t need a recipe, but there is one below, and it comes together in 30 mins. It felt like the right thing to share for the Fourth of July Weekend. Nothing about it is remotely American, but it’s the kind of easy, five-minutes-of-effort, feeds-a-crowd appetizer that fits right onto any holiday table.

Baked Feta with Honey & Apricots

A no-recipe recipe from a Greek island kitchen

Serves 6 as an appetizer• Time: 10 mins prep, 15 mins cooking

Ingredients

• 1 thick slice good-quality Greek feta (about 300–400g, minimum 200g)

• Black pepper

• Pinch of fresh or dried oregano

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• Generous pinch chili flakes (or 1 small red chili, thinly sliced)

• 5 ripe apricots

• 1 teaspoon honey

• 1 lemon

• Crusty bread or crackers, to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) on the convection setting. Place your thick slice of Greek feta in a small roasting dish and season generously with black pepper, then douse it in the 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Scatter over a generous pinch of chili flakes, or use a small red chili if you want more heat. Scatter over the dried or fresh oreganos. Halve the 5 apricots, leaving the skins on, and dot them around the feta in the dish. Drizzle the teaspoon of honey over everything before it goes in.

2. Bake for about 15-20 minutes, OR until the feta is golden brown on top, the apricots have gone soft and juicy, and everything looks roasty around the edges.

3. Pull it out of the oven and finish with a squeeze of lemon over the top. Serve straight away with crusty bread or crackers for scooping.

A note on swaps: no ripe apricots on hand? Peaches or figs work beautifully in their place. Cherries or tomatoes even. And if you can get your hands on real Greek PDO feta, it’s worth seeking out here as the flavor is what makes this dish.

Of all the weeks to finally finish a kitchen, I picked the one where it hit 40°C and the last thing I want to do is turn on the oven. So this is what I have been making instead: a spicy, brothy, 20-minute or less cod that asks almost nothing of you and isn’t, for once, a salad.

It has been a long time in the making, riffed and remixed over the years from an old Alison Roman recipe I adore. The whole thing is really just three elements: a quick gochujang broth, a piece of fish poached gently in it, and a cold pile of herbs and shallot over the top. Hot, cold, soft, sharp. A winning combination

Why gochujang

Because it is fermented, gochujang brings a depth and a funk you simply cannot fake or rush. A spoonful melted into butter and stock turns a thrown-together weeknight broth into something that's pleasantly complex and zingy. It's one for the pantry. Comes in a giant tub and adds heft and complexity to dressings, mayos and marinades. And if you made last week's 1-2-3 Gochujang Mince, you will still have most of that tub sitting in the fridge, so consider this another very good reason to reach for it.

Why you cure the cod

Do not skip this, and it only takes ten minutes. A quick salt and sugar rub goes on the fish while you prep everything else. In that short time the salt works mostly on the surface, drawing out a little moisture and firming the proteins on the outside of the fillet. That firmer exterior is the whole point: it is the surface that flakes and falls apart the second fish hits hot liquid, so this is what keeps your cod in neat, tight pieces in the broth. It seasons that outer layer too, and the sugar balances it while drawing out the cod’s natural sweetness.

The rest is just summer produce doing its thing. Sweetcorn, tomatoes just cooked but still holding their shape, a genrrous squeeze of lime and fish sauce to sharpen the broth. Serve it over rice to catch all of it. It scales beautifully, so add another fillet and it happily feeds four.

One last thing before you go: we are off to Greece this weekend, Isla’s first ever flight, up at 4am, heaven help us. If you have flown with a toddler and have a tip that genuinely saved you, drop it in the comments. I need all the help I can get.

To the food!

Jess x

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Hello, and welcome to the paid side — where the cooking gets even better and the tea gets considerably hotter.

Quick recipe note before we get into the chat — this is where your one batch of Sticky Gochujang Mince really earns its keep, with of this week’s remaining dinners right here: a golden crispy rice salad and the cosiest little cabbage rolls.

But I promised you a story. So pour something cold, and let me tell you about the man who slept in my house.

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Hello! Oh, it is good to be back in the (mould-free) kitchen.

The 1-2-3 series is officially back, with more of the one-base-many-meals cooking you've been loving recently. There's plenty of deliciousness on the horizon as we head off for our Euro Summer (and your all-access insider guide to the Greek island holiday you should absolutely be booking this season — my best-kept holiday secret destination, laid bare). There's also a little reno reality unfolding that starts right here in this edition.

So first, let me catch you up — because life has been… a lot.

We’re back in the kitchen. Sort of. We’re back in roughly 90% of a kitchen, which I’m reliably informed is the most maddening percentage there is, because that final 10% shows absolutely no intention of ever finishing. And getting even this far genuinely broke us. I want to make light of it, because that’s how I cope but while its a first world problem in the scheme of things I also don’t want to pretend it’s been easy. We’ve been unwell thanks to mould (a lingering little gift that is still hanging about, making my brain feel sluggish), decamped to stay with cosuins (where two weeks turned to four), and then moved back into a house that wasn’t finished, under what I can only describe as geological layers of dust. Builders on site every single day. Resolving personality clashes between contractors. Work deadlines and emails stacking up while I had no kitchen to actually work in. It was, in a word, relentless. And when we hit further snags, and truly bizarre “am I on reality TV” scenarios cathartic cries were had — because all this girl really wants is a house that isn't trying to kill her.

But we got on top of the mould. The kitchen is in. And I am so deeply, ridiculously relieved to be standing in my own space again that I could weep into the (beautiful, new) sink. Now we just have to wrestle that last 10% to the ground. Onwards.

And in the middle of all the chaos, the best of it all: Isla turned one. (A tiny, very censored glimpse of the birthday girl below.) Her Nonna stitched and posted a birthday crown, we threw a small party at my cousins, she grooved to Happy Birthday, was coy and charming, and then had a spectacular meltdown when the attention and pictures got overwhelming. It’s her party and she will cry if she wants to. She's walking now, toddling with a overconfident wobble, hand in the air like a flamenco dancer. I’m loving this age and getting to know her. She’s enthusiastic about everything but mostly books (“dooks”), and scrambled eggs (“yegs”), and trying to say roughly a hundred words a day — most unintelligible. She was a trooper through all of it, but also decided what we all needed in the midst of this stress and chaos was to wake up at 5am. Daily.

What’s coming up:

This is the bit I’m genuinely buzzing about. Here’s what’s landing over the next few weeks

A Greek summer. We’re spending two weeks on one of my very favourite Greek islands - a verdant, green little pocket of paradise that my sister first introduced me to, and somewhere we’re returning this year as a whole family, in her honour. There’ll be loads of Greek holiday content for everyone and a proper deep dive into this slice of heaven: What to eat and where to eat it, where to drink, and a whole stack of Greek summer recipes. So whether you’re coming with us in spirit or chasing your own euro-summer, you’ll have everything you need.

The full reno saga + THE reveal. The unplanned overnight houseguest (yes, that happened), the worktop fiasco, and a sink that now has to come out and go back in — plus the complete before-and-after of the finished kitchen. And a proper tour of my gorgeous new gear.

If you're planning your own kitchen renovation, this one's for you: I'm going to give you the real do's and don'ts. After twelve years as a private chef, I've cooked in hundreds of different kitchens: country houses, cottages, London flats, professional setups, villa kitchens, and tiny yacht cabins….so I know what works, what doesn't, and how to astutely optimise a space. I'll walk you through everything I learned the hard way in this renovation, so you can stay on top of your own project, trust your instincts, and avoid the mistakes I made. (We had wonderful contractors, lovely people, but I quickly learned that managing the project yourself, closely, is non-negotiable.)

Editions 2 & 3 of this very series landing Tuesday and Wednesday evening for paid subscribers: the Crispy Rice Salad and the Gochujang Cabbage Rolls, both built straight from this week’s base.

But first — this week, free, for everyone

A quick refresher for anyone new: the whole point of the 1-2-3 series is that you cook once making one brilliant, hard-working base and/or accompaniments, then spin it into multiple completely different meals across the week — so dinner never feels like a rerun.

This month’s hero is a Sticky Gochujang Mince — sweet, spicy, deeply caramelised and genuinely addictive, paired with a Silky Sesame Tofu Sauce that’s secretly loaded with protein and comes together in a blender in five minutes flat.

Below you’ve got both base recipes plus your first meal:

Udon Noodles with Sticky Gochujang Mince & a Herb Salad.

And for Paid Subscribers: Find your shopping and prep list PDF after the recipes

Let’s cook.

Sticky Gochujang Mince

Saucy, spicy, sticky mince that forms the base of multiple meals throughout the week.

Serves 10–12 • Time: 20 mins prep, 25 mins cooking

Ingredients

3 garlic cloves
1 tbsp grated ginger
¼ cup gochujang
3½ tbsp soy sauce
1½ tbsp rice vinegar
3 tbsp honey
1 tbsp sesame oil
800g chicken sausage meat removed from casings or Turkey/chicken thigh mince
500g pork mince (or more chicken sausage/thigh meat)
neutral oil

Method

1. In a bowl, combine 3 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp grated ginger, ¼ cup gochujang, 3 tbsp soy sauce, 1½ tbsp rice vinegar, 3 tbsp honey, and 1 tbsp sesame oil. Stir until smooth and set aside.

2. Heat a large stainless steel or cast-iron pan over high heat. To check if the pan is ready, flick a few drops of water onto the surface. If they dance around the pan, it’s hot enough. Reduce the heat slightly to medium-high and drizzle in a little neutral oil.

3. Add the 800g chicken sausage mince and 500g pork mince in 2 batches, spreading small pieces around the pan rather than overcrowding it (boiled mince won’t be very delicious, trust me!).

4. Cook until deeply browned on one side before turning and breaking up the mince. Continue cooking until well coloured and caramelised- this builds the best flavour so be patient. Remove the browned mince and repeat as necessary.

5. Return all the browned mince to the pan and pour in the gochujang sauce. Stir well to coat everything evenly.

6. Cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce has reduced and completely clings to the mince. There should be very little liquid remaining and the mince should look glossy and sticky.

7. Taste and adjust if needed with a little extra soy sauce or rice vinegar. The flavour profile should be a touch acidic with sweetness from the honey, and seasoned to your preference with soy.

8. If a large amount of fat has rendered from the meat, carefully spoon some away. Alternatively, strain the mince through a sieve set over a bowl, reserving the pork fat for another use. Its great for crisping the rice, and garnishing the noodles.

9. Allow to cool before storing and using in the recipes below.

Silky Sesame Tofu Sauce

Creamy, protein rich, slightly spicy sauce for noodles, grain bowls, and vegetables.

Makes 2 Cups • Time: 5 mins prep

Ingredients

150g silken tofu
4 tbsp tahini
3 tbsp soy sauce
1 small knob ginger
250ml water
2 tbsp chilli oil or reserved pork fat

Method

1. Add 150g silken tofu, 4 tbsp tahini, 3 tbsp soy sauce, 1 small knob ginger, 200ml water, and 2 tbsp chilli oil or reserved gochujang fat to a blender.

2. Blend until completely smooth and silky.

3. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed with additional soy sauce.

4. The sauce should be pourable but creamy. Add a splash more water if needed.

5. Store in the fridge until ready to use.

Udon Noodles with Sticky Gochujang Mince & Herby Snap Pea Salad

Chewy noodles coated in silky sesame sauce, topped with sticky mince and a fresh crunchy salad.

Serves 3–4 • Time: 15 mins prep, 10 mins cooking

Ingredients

1/4 batch Sticky Gochujang Mince
⅓ batch Silky Sesame Tofu Sauce
4 spring onions
15g coriander leaves
125g sugar snap peas
750g frozen udon noodles
sesame seeds, for serving
extra chilli oil or reserved pork fat, for serving

Method

Prepare 4 spring onions by either thinly slicing them or slicing them lengthways into fine strips. If making curls, slice into sections and cut along the length of the spring onion into very thin strands and place them into iced water. Add the 15g coriander leaves to the same bowl of iced water to keep everything crisp and fresh.

Thinly slice 125g sugar snap peas on an angle and add them to the bowl.

Cook 3 x 250g packs frozen udon noodles according to the packet instructions. Drain well, then return them to the warm cooking pot.

Add ⅓ batch Silky Sesame Tofu Sauce to the hot noodles and toss thoroughly. The residual heat and starch from the noodles will help the sauce cling to them, creating a glossy coating.

Divide the noodles between 3–4 bowls.

Top with ⅓ batch Sticky Gochujang Mince.

Drain the spring onions, coriander, and sugar snap peas well. Toss together and pile on top of the noodles.

Finish with sesame seeds and a drizzle of extra chilli oil or warmed reserved pork fat.

Serve immediately.

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The final dinner from one chicken, and arguably the most satisfying. Brothy chickpeas with shredded chicken, a generous pour of the leftover piccata sauce, creamy avocado, sharp pickled red onion and a handful of tortilla chips for scooping. It’s a fifteen minute job. Bowl food made entirely from things already living in your fridge.

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Day two of the 1-2-3 series. Sunday was the ground work so tonight is just throwing fries and croutons in the oven, and you’re eating within twenty minutes. Meet the Chicken Piccata Caesar Salad with Garlic Parmesan Fries. A creamy lemony mash-up of two of my very favourite dishes.

I filmed the recipe for girls night because every girl I have ever met loves a really good salad and fries combo. No girl gathering is complete without a little something to drink and a bowl of fries. It’s science and I can’t argue with it.

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Happy Sunday everyone,

So. We have a hole. A giant hole where the kitchen wall used to be. If you’ve been following on Instagram, you know the mould was bad and turns out it was much worse than we thought. What was behind the cabinets when they ripped them all out on Friday explained a lot about why we’ve been so ill. I’m just really glad we’re getting it sorted. We’re staying with my cousins while the worst gets dealt with, and the new kitchen is going to be a completely different space. More light, an extra window, and south facing door where that giant hole is. I’ll share more of the renovation saga in this week’s paid editions.

In the meantime, we spent the bank holiday weekend in a half-demolished building site. Sink connected, air fryer perched on the stove, one gas burner working, our stuff shoved into the unfinished pantry. Abject chaos.

Enter this chicken piccata which saved the weekend and my sanity which lbh is hanging on by a thread. I thought a sudden return of crippling brain fog was a fun post partum thing, but no, just black mold exposure. Anyway, I prepped and filmed the whole recipe on Thursday one batch, 1.5 hours, then just dipped into it for days. If I can get this done in a half-kitchen that’s basically a construction zone, it’ll definitely work in yours.

This is always one of my most popular dishes when I private chef for the billionaire set. The ultra-wealthy don’t want foams and theatrics. I mean, they can get Michelin-star food any night of the week. What they wanted from me is gorgeously simple food done well. Vibrant, wholesome, abundant. And this traybake chicken piccata is just consistently great- it works for everyone, adults and kids, lunch and dinner, plated or piled onto a sharing board. Everyone loves a really good roast chicken.

I love to bulk it out with jammy roasted onions and chickpeas alongside the greens, which is partly about flavour and partly about being smart with quality protein. I don’t love getting all my protein from one source and diversifying with chickpeas means you’re adding fibre, keeping meal costs sensible (less a concern when cheffing on unlimited budgets), and stretching a really good quality bird further. I always try to buy the best meat (organic, free range, corn fed) and then cut it with an affordable, nutritious staple like pulses. That way you’re eating incredibly well without blowing the budget on two organic breasts per person. The onions go sweet and jammy, the chickpeas dive in and glisten with buttery chicken juices, golden capers, lemon and parsley. It’s perfect and I love it.

And because this is a 1-2-3 edition, the roast chicken isn’t just tonight’s dinner - it’s the base for two more meals this week.

Let’s get into it.

What’s coming this week

This is meal one of three.

Meal 2 (Tuesday): A chicken piccata Caesar salad with garlic parmesan fries — the piccata sauce becomes the dressing, the butter becomes the croutons, and the whole thing takes about 20 minutes to pull together.

Meal 3 (Wednesday): Brothy chickpeas, the last of the chicken, adorned with sour cream, and pickled red onion. Dippy chips to accompany if you want them

Both are dropping this week for paid subscribers. If you want to follow the full 1-2-3 series every week — one big cook, three different meals— upgrading costs less than a coffee a month and you get everything, plus the full recipe archive.

Happy Cooking,

Jess x

Traybake Chicken Piccata with Greens & Chickpeas

This is part of our 1–2–3 series, where you cook one hero ingredient as a main “bulk prep” dish and spin it into three meals across the week. This chicken can either be eaten as a generous roast for 6, or used across the series: this traybake, a chicken piccata Caesareque-style salad, and a brothy chickpea dish with avocado and pickled red onion.

Serves 6-8 • Time: 25 mins prep, 45 mins cooking

Ingredients
100g butter
2 bunches parsley (approx. 40g total)
1 jar capers (approx. 140g)
2 lemons
1 large 2kg whole chicken*
4 large brown onions
1 head of garlic
120ml white wine
550ml chicken stock
2 bunches of asparagus (approx. 250–350g total) or similar green veg (beans/tenderstem broccoli)
400g peas
handful wild garlic or ramps (optional) or 2 tbsp chives or extra parsley
2 x 400g tins chickpeas (drained) or 1 x 570g jar chickpeas
Greek yogurt, for serving
salt and pepper

*If you’d like more chicken for the additional meals you make in this series, add 2 extra chicken leg portions. See “note” under point 4

Method

1. The piccata butter- Soften 100g butter in a bowl. Finely chop 2 bunches of parsley (about 40g) and add half to the butter. Spoon in about half your jar of capers (roughly 3 tbsp), then zest in both lemons. Mix until combined.

2. [1-2-3] You’re going to use this butter three ways this week: under the chicken skin, through the greens, whisked into the sauce, and 2 Tbsp saved for Caesar croutons on Tuesday. Set the portion for the picata ceasar aside now, before you forget — once this butter hits a hot pan you won’t be scooping it back out.

3. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F.

4. Spatchcock your chicken — cut along both sides of the backbone with kitchen scissors and press the bird flat, breast-side up. If this feels daunting, purchase from a butcher- they will happily take care of it for you. One chicken gives you 2 large thighs and a drumstick for tonight (perfect for 2 adults and 2 children), with both breasts, and the picked wing meat saved for meals two and three.
   NOTE: If your family is bigger or your adults are hungry, add 2 extra leg portions to the roasting tray so tonight is generous and you’ve still got all the breast meat for later in the week.

   Save the backbone. It’s going into stock for meal three on Thursday — wrap it and fridge it for now.

5. Peel and quarter 4 large onions, scatter across a large roasting tray. Place the chicken on top. Loosen the skin over the breasts and thighs, push about a third of the piccata butter underneath, concentrating on the thicker parts. Rub a little more over the outside.

6. Slice the top off 1 head of garlic to expose the cloves, rub with the butter, place cut-side down in the tray. Season generously with salt and pepper. Pour 120ml white wine and 550ml chicken stock around (not over) the chicken.

7. Roast for 45 minutes until the skin is deeply golden and crisp. You’re looking for 80°C in the thickest part of the thigh and 75°C in the breast. If you don’t have a thermometer, this is your sign to get one - they cost a tenner and they take all the guesswork out.

8. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Chop 2 bunches of asparagus (250–350g) into bite-sized pieces, blanch until just tender, add 400g peas for a minute or two. You want everything bright green and barely cooked. Drain and spread out on a tray immediately — don’t let them sit or they’ll go khaki.

9. While still warm, toss with 2 tablespoons of the remaining piccata butter. Fold through a handful of sliced wild garlic/ramps (or 2 tbsp chives, or extra parsley). Season.

10. Remove the chicken from the oven. Transfer the chicken to a board to rest.

11. Return the onions to the oven for 5–10 minutes until caramelised at the edges, then remove from the sauce and lift into a bowl.

12. Squeeze the softened garlic cloves out of their skins into the roasting tray with the pan sauce. Add the remaining piccata butter, extra capers if you like, and whisk into the hot pan juices until glossy. Squeeze in the juice of one lemon, taste, adjust with the second lemon. You want it sharp, buttery, a bit briny. Additional lemon will depend on the acidity of the wine you used.

13. Add 2 x 400g tins of drained chickpeas to the onions with 2 generous spoonfuls of sauce and a scattering of parsley. Toss and season to taste.

14. To serve: If you’re eating this as a standalone roast dinner, spread 2–3 tbsp Greek yogurt onto each plate, spoon over the chickpeas and onions, then top with carved chicken and plenty of greens. Spoon over all the lemony piccata sauce and serve with extra lemon on the side.

    If you’re cooking within the 1–2–3 series, divide things a little more strategically. First, reserve 1/2 of the greens for Tuesday’s Chicken Piccata Caesar Salad. Then reserve two-thirds of the chickpea and onion mixture for Thursday’s brothy chickpeas - you’re aiming to store roughly 3 1/2 cups of chickpea mix. Spoon about half the sauce into a jar and refrigerate it for the next two meals; you should have roughly 2 cups total, so don’t be shy about holding some back.

    
    For tonight’s 1-2-3 dinner, carve and serve the chicken as follows: one thigh per adult and one drumstick per child, alongside a smaller portion of the chickpeas and greens. If you added the optional extra chicken leg portions earlier, serve those too so tonight still feels generous while keeping both breasts reserved for later in the week.

    Don’t forget to refrigerate the breasts, carcass, and any picked meat from the bones — they all have a job later in the series.

15. Get ahead: While you’re clearing up tonight, get your broth on for Thursday. Drop the chicken carcass picked of all meat and back bone into a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a gentle simmer. Leave it for 4 hours on the lowest heat — you can largely ignore it but top it up woith water if it runs low. If you’ve got a pressure cooker, 90 minutes on high pressure does the same job. Strain, cool, and into the fridge. You’ve just made Thursday’s dinner base almost entirely from scraps.
    No time or inclination? Ditch the carcass and use shop-bought stock on Thursday — it'll still be delicious.

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Hello everyone, and happy Sunday,

We are still renovating. I know, I know. The kitchen hasn’t even been ripped out yet because we hit a structural issue that meant redesigning the windows, which was not in the plan. We are moving forward, but slowly, and I am currently paralysed by cabinet hardware. Knobs or pulls. Brass or nickel. I have about forty-seven browser tabs open. Don’t talk to me about picking paint. SO. MUCH. CHOICE.

Here's the thing nobody warned me about: since having a baby, I doubt every design decision I make. Not just the house. Clothes, too. Nothing I put on feels like me anymore. And there's this weird thing that happens when you become a mother where the world just stops seeing you as anything else. Which is strange, because at home I am the sun, the centre of everything. But somewhere between that and the outside world, societies tend to treat mothers as pretty invisible. I went to a Coco de Mer event in London last week — lingerie, a burlesque theme, very much not a picnic in the park play date — and I had to give myself a stern pep talk in the train and hype myself up to walk in alone. Cold introductions, small talk with strangers, I did the whole thing. I am actually really good at chit chat so I don’t know why it bothered me. I had a great time, but the fact that it felt so daunting is kind of my point. And I'm aware that talking about it at all is a bit of a tightrope — nobody wants to be the person who only talks about their baby, but I also can’t pretend that having one hasn't completely rearranged how I see myself.

The budget is lean on this renovation and I so badly want to get it right, because this is a reflection of me now, but also I am in flux and changing so much. And all of this is happening at a time when clients costs are climbing, and they are cutting budgets, everyone is feeling the pinch, and the world feels a bit more uncertain than it did when hit start on this. Clients expect more- more engagement on socials, more reach, more for less than before but we are in point of no going back (the black mold saw to that), so I'm doubling down on work, a lot of late nights strategizing new pitches and leads, opening my private chef calendar to new clients (reach out on instagram if you are interested, or email jess@culinarycartel.com) and trusting that my hard work pays off. It's hard to create a space that reflects you when you're still figuring out who you are on the other side of a huge life change. I am me, but I'm not. If that makes sense. And the stakes feel higher than ever.

Meanwhile, Isla is toddling now, unbalanced like a drunk sailor on her walker and very into “dancing”, pumping her chunky little legs up and down to Bubble Bubble Bath (IYKYK). She is obsessed (both excited and terrified) by the coffee machine. We got her a little Montessori ballet bar and mirror, and she spends a solid hunk of her day grooving in front of it (such a diva), completely unbothered by any crisis of identity. I could learn a thing or two.

In the kitchen things are less thankfully complicated. Isla is learning to eat what we eat, and I'm learning to let go of the anxiety around it. If she tries something, great. If she doesn't, fine.

So this week I’m launching something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: a series I’m calling 1 to 3. One base recipe, three completely different dishes. As easy as one, two, three. This isn’t traditional meal prep in thetupperware-lined-up-on-the-counter sense. It’s smart ingredient forward prep. You make one big batch of something delicious, some accompanying bits, and then you spin it off into different directions across the week. Or you freeze half of it and look after your future self. The prep takes max 1,5 hours, and meals will then come together in the week in about 10minutes- mainly assembly.

This first edition starts with a fragrant lemongrass chicken mince, a riff on the bún chả flavour world.

I'm not Vietnamese, and while I spent six weeks travelling and actively learning a lot in Vietnam, I want to be upfront about where I researched this piece — big ups to Hungry Huy, Vicky Pham, Vy Tran on Serious Eats, and My Viet Kitchen.

So the dish: Chicken thigh mince and pork sausage, loaded with lemongrass, lime zest, ginger, spring onions, coriander, garlic. Dont eat pork- use more thigh mince. It’s fresh and zesty, there’s no chilli in the base so it’s kid-friendly, and it smells incredible. Isla is obsessed with them, which is all the endorsement I need. From that one mixture, we’re making three things: a bun cha inspired noodle bowl with meatballs, herbs and nuoc cham; a sort of smashed Vietnamese taco (bahn mi inspo) on flour tortillas; and a clever, hacky rice paper dumpling— no folding, no pleating, you just drop meatballs into a pan, drape soaked rice paper over the top and let it crisp up. It's like an upside-down shumai with a crunchy rice paper edge and it's so bloody easy. A quick pickled carrot and green chilli, and a nuoc cham dressing that ties everything together, and can be used of all sorts of other things in the week if you double up. Pickled carrots and nuoc cham will keep for at least 7 days.

You can, but don’t have to make all three meals in the same week. You don’t even have to make all three. Divide the mixture however you like between the inspo recipe- all meat balls or all tacos if you fancy. The tacos freeze brilliantly and defrost in minutes, the meatballs can go straight into the freezer uncooked. This is about giving yourself options

Let’s get into it.

Jess xx

MASTER RECIPE: Minced Lemongrass Chicken

Fragrant, juicy base for tacos, dumplings or meatballs

Makes 1.8kgs • Time: 15 mins prep

Ingredients
1kg chicken thigh mince
500g pork sausages or pork mince**
1 large zucchini
3 spring onions
2 limes
2 tbsp lemongrass paste
1 tbsp ginger or 3 tbsp ginger lemongrass paste
3 cloves garlic
½ cup dried breadcrumbs
2 tsp salt
15g coriander
1 egg

*Do not use lean mince here. Thighs and a 15% fat ratio is important for juicy results. This mixture makes approximately 1.8kg and can be used across multiple dishes. Expect around 8 large tacos or 12 standard sized tacos, about 12 meatballs, and 12–14 smaller dumplings.
**US readers: use raw breakfast sausage or ground pork, or simply more ground chicken thigh

Method
Remove the skins from the 500g pork sausages if using and place the meat into a large bowl with the 1kg chicken mince.

Grate the large zucchini, then place it into a sieve and squeeze out as much excess liquid as possible over the sink. Add the drained zucchini to the bowl.

Finely slice the 3 spring onions and add them to the mixture. Zest the 2 limes directly into the bowl, then set the limes aside for their juice to use in the nuoc cham.

Add the 2 tbsp lemongrass paste and 1 tbsp ginger (or 3 tbsp ginger lemongrass paste) along with the 3 cloves garlic, grated or very finely chopped.

Add the ½ cup dried breadcrumbs and 2 tsp salt. Pick the leaves from the 15g coriander, finely chop them and add to the bowl, reserving the stems for nuoc cham. Crack in the 1 egg.

Mix everything together thoroughly until fully combined. The mixture should feel moist but hold its shape when pressed together.

You can now portion the mixture depending on how you want to use it. Roll into golf ball-sized portions for meatballs or tacos, or smaller pieces for dumplings.

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Hello everyone, and happy Sunday,

I’m writing this from a laptop perched near a pile of boxes because, as some of you already know, we are deep in the throes of a house renovation. The kitchen hasn’t quite had its turn yet (we’re still working through the walk-in pantry and built-ins), but we are making our way there, and it is chaos. So, over the coming weeks, expect to see a lot of content themed around clever cooking in a building site.

This week I allowed myself one last indulgence before things get really disruptive. This also doubled up as an attempt to summon more Spring-y weather, because, wow, will winter ever end? For those in the Northern Hemisphere, you might also be aware of the ‘hunger gap’, a term related to food scarcity when stored winter crops run out, and new, early summer produce is not yet ready for harvest. Basically, winter is over, but none of the spring veg is playing ball, and it’s slim pickings when it comes to interesting veg at the moment.

So here, we’re embodying all things sunshine with a very indulgent Crème Fraîche and Lemon Orzo with Chilli Brown Butter Prawns. I wanted something bright, fresh and comforting, but without any of the faff of something like a risotto. The prawns are gently poached in a spicy, lemony butter, while the orzo is toasted and cooked in stock. You really get the idea of just how soothing this all is. And it all comes together with a final flourish of crème fraîche, more lemon and lots of herbs.

I think the only pressure point in this recipe is the prawns, which is to say, they really shouldn’t be. If you’re worried about prawns being fiddly to prep at home, save yourself the stress and buy them peeled and deveined, ideally with the tails on. If you’re made of tougher stuff and clean your prawns yourself, then keep the heads to throw into the brown butter for more depth. Regardless, they cook so gently in their little brown-butter bath, it is quite literally impossible to get this part wrong. It’s very forgiving.

I put this together on the fly when I found a bag of frozen prawns while clearing out my freezer, and I think it would make for a great midweek dinner. But I also have visions of serving it for lunch with friends, from my new kitchen, on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Either way, I hope it brings you as much joy as it did me.

Until next week!

Jess x

Crème Fraîche and Lemon Orzo with Chilli Brown Butter Prawns

Lemon Orzo with Brown Butter Poached Prawns

Serves 2–3
Time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

1 onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, finely grated
1 red chilli, finely diced
30g butter
1 tbsp olive oil
200g orzo (about 1 cup)
1½–2 cups chicken stock
2 lemons (zest and juice divided)
2–3 tbsp crème fraîche
10g parsley (about ⅓ bunch), finely chopped
12 large prawns, peeled and deveined, tails on
Salt and black pepper

Method

1. Start by preparing your ingredients. Finely dice the onion and chilli, grate the garlic, zest both lemons, and finely chop the parsley. Set everything aside so it is ready to go.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and cook until it begins to turn lightly golden and smells nutty. Add half the lemon zest, the grated garlic, and the diced chilli. Cook gently for about 30–60 seconds until fragrant and the garlic is softened but not coloured. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Heat the olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion with a pinch of salt and cook for 5–6 minutes until soft and translucent.

4. Add the orzo and toast it with the onion for about 1 minute, stirring so the grains are lightly coated in the oil.

5. Pour in 1 cup of the chicken stock, stir well, and cover with a lid. Let it cook for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t stick.

6. Continue cooking the orzo according to the packet instructions (about 8–11 minutes total), adding a splash more stock or water as needed and stirring every few minutes. The texture should become creamy and the orzo tender but still slightly al dente.

7. Turn off the heat. Add the zest of the remaining lemon, 2–3 tablespoons of crème fraîche, the juice of the lemon you just zested, and most of the chopped parsley. Stir well and season generously with salt and black pepper. Set aside off the heat.

8. Return the brown butter to a gentle heat. Add the prawns and cook very gently, almost poaching them in the butter, for 2–3 minutes until just cooked through and still juicy.

9. Finish the prawns by squeezing in the juice of the remaining lemon and swirling it through the butter.

10. Spoon the creamy lemon orzo into bowls. Top with the prawns and drizzle over the warm brown butter. Scatter with the remaining parsley and serve immediately.

Hello and happy Sunday,

We are well and truly into the throes of this kitchen reno and as disruptive as it can be – especially with an on the move baby – I can honestly say it’s been so inspiring coming up with speedy recipes that don’t sacrifice on flavour. I can confidently say that I’ve nailed the 30-minute dinner, a life skill I will carry with pride.

As an aside — how nosey are you lot about the kitchen reno? I am obsessed with other people's home renovations. There's something slightly voyeuristic about it, but also genuinely inspiring, seeing how people pull rooms together. Ours has been a forced hand (SURPRISE-black mould!) but now we're in it, I'm properly into it. Paradox of choice is real though. We're also doing bits to the bedroom and the nursery, and honestly it's been this whole new creative outlet beyond cooking that I'm really enjoying. This is obviously a food account, but I'd love to share more of this stuff if you're interested. So tell me below? Comments are open to all

Anyway. What has been tricky is balancing all of this speed-cooking with trying to feed a baby. For anyone new around here, I have a nearly-one-year-old, who I’m doing my best to turn into a great eater, like her parents. We are having mixed results, and unless I feed her endless flax-banana pancakes, honestly most of it ends up on the floor. Even pre-renovation, I vehemently resisted cooking individual food for her, opting to give her things from our plates to get her used to eating with – and like – us. Now, as I need to cook for a family in record time, I’ve doubled down and instead of cooking with something both adult- and kid-friendly, I’m cooking things that can be broken up and easily family-fied. This is an approach from my private cheffing days and works for kids of all ages until they (hopefully) outgrow the picky phase.

This week’s recipe is a great example of what I mean here. This Sticky Lamb Bowl is the sum of many parts, which can be edited according to whether you’re feeding an adult or a child. Firstly, the lamb itself is this crispy, aromatic, tomatey, sticky number. Made with lamb mince for quick cooking, it’s like a tighter, more flavourful bolognaise (and we all know how much kids love bolognaise, amirite?). The dish really gets its heft from the white bean “hummus”, which is the work of minutes. Again, kids of all sizes love hummus. To finish everything off, I’ve topped this with a very springy melange of crisp veg and pickled red onions.

For adults, this is a perfect midweek dinner dish. For kids, omit the pickled red onion, serve with just the peas and you’re (hopefully!) guaranteed something they will eat.

My gift to you this week is not just a recipe, but a strategy for cooking once, regardless of how small your kids are.

And if you have no kids in sight or more spice tolerant eaters at the table- swap the tomato paste for harissa or chipotle paste! Absolute banger and how I would cook this if just cooking for Jake and I.

I hope this frees you all as much as it did me!

Happy (less) cooking!

Jess

Sticky Lamb Bowl With Spring Veg

Serves 3–4 • Time: 15 mins prep, 25 mins cooking

Ingredients

Read more

First: a classic from the archives, a Slow Roasted Honey and Harissa Glazed Lamb Leg. And if you end up with leftovers, the Spiced Citrusy Lamb With Brothy Giant Cous Cous and Crisp Veg is a really lovely day-after recipe, a great way to stretch what’s left into something that feels entirely new. Then there are the Perfect Roast Potatoes and we go into the actual science of nailing them. Fluffy interiors, shatteringly crisp crusts, and all the techniques that mean you never end up with tough, dry roasties again.

Finally, a new one and a Bunn family favourite since my childhood: Brûléed Hot Cross Buns. My mum’s been making these for us since we were kids and honestly, they are class. I have never seen them anywhere else. Shop-bought hot cross buns work in a pinch, but you can and should try The Softest (Fresher For Longer) Hot Cross Buns shared on Sunday. Soft, pillowy, spiced milk bread with notes of honey, they’re a completely different beast to shop-bought. Once topped with cinnamon butter and grilled until the sugar is cracking and golden, they’re pretty much last meal perfection.

The from-scratch hot cross bun recipe is on the Substack for paid subscribers and honestly, this and Sunday’s Sweet & Sticky Lamb Agrodolce (which is currently IMO the best lamb in the archives) is a great excuse to use your free article if you are not on the paid tier.

Happy Easter, everyone.

Jess x.

Slow Roasted Honey and Harissa Lamb Leg

Serves 8–10 • Time: 30 mins prep, 5 hrs cooking

Ingredients

• 1 bone-in lamb leg (approx. 1.8kg / 4 lbs)

For the rub

• 1 tbsp cumin seeds

• 1 tsp paprika

• 1 tbsp dried oregano

• 4 cloves garlic

• 1 tsp fine sea salt

• 90g Mild/medium harissa paste (or chipotle paste, or red pepper pesto for a milder option)

For cooking and glazing

• 1 onion

• 500ml chicken or beef stock

• 2½ tbsp honey

• 1 tsp cumin seeds

Optional – Tzatziki

• 200g thick yoghurt (Greek or Skyr)

• 1 English cucumber

• 5g fresh mint

• Salt and pepper

Method

1. To make the rub, place the 1 tbsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp paprika, and 1 tbsp dried oregano in a pestle and mortar and grind until fine. Add the 4 cloves garlic and 1 tsp sea salt, and pound again until you have a chunky paste. Stir in the 90g harissa paste to form a thick marinade.

2. Score the fat and underside of the 1 lamb leg with a sharp knife, cutting about 0.5cm into the meat. Rub the harissa marinade all over the lamb. If time allows, cover and marinate in the fridge for a few hours or overnight. If not, proceed straight to cooking.

3. Remove the lamb from the fridge and let it come to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F).

4. Slice the 1 onion and scatter it in the base of a deep roasting tray. Place the lamb on top and pour 500ml chicken or beef stock around the meat. Cover tightly with foil.

5. Roast the lamb, covered, for 4.5–5 hours at 150°C (300°F), basting once or twice with the pan juices as it cooks. The lamb is ready when it’s tender and pulls apart easily.

6. Once cooked, mix 2½ tbsp honey with 1 tsp cumin seeds. Drizzle this mixture over the top of the lamb and return it to the oven, uncovered. Increase the heat to 190°C (375°F) and roast for a further 30–40 minutes, until the lamb is sticky, glazed, and golden at the edges.

7. While the lamb finishes, make the optional tzatziki. Slice the 1 cucumber lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Cut into strips, then dice into small cubes. Toss with a generous pinch of salt and set in a colander or sieve for 5–10 minutes to draw out excess moisture.

8. Lightly squeeze the cucumber to remove more liquid, then stir into the 200g yoghurt with 5g finely chopped mint. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Chill until ready to serve.

9. Once the lamb is out of the oven, let it rest for at least 15 minutes before shredding. Serve with the pan juices spooned over, and a side of tzatziki if using.

Notes

You can skip the tzatziki and just serve this with the sticky pan juices as a jus—it’s rich and flavourful enough on its own.

If you’d like to skim the fat: pour the pan juices and onions into a shallow bowl and chill briefly in the fridge or freezer. Once the fat sets on top, you can lift it off with a spoon and reheat the sauce as needed.

This is an ideal make-ahead dish—marinate overnight, roast slowly, glaze just before serving. It reheats beautifully, and any leftovers make excellent sandwiches or grain bowls the next day.

FAQs

Can I use a boneless leg of lamb instead?
Yes, though I’d recommend reducing the cooking time slightly as boneless legs tend to cook faster. Keep an eye on it from around 3.5 hours in. You won’t get quite the same depth of flavour from the bone, but it’ll still be tender and delicious.

What’s the mildest version of this rub?
Red pepper pesto is your best bet for keeping things on the milder side—it still brings flavour and body, just without the heat. You could also use a mild rose harissa or cut regular harissa with a bit of oil or yoghurt.

Do I have to marinate it overnight?
No, but if you have the time, it’s worth it. The garlic and spices have more time to penetrate the meat, and the lamb will be more flavourful all the way through. That said, it’s still excellent if you rub it on and go straight into the oven.

Can I make this in advance?
Definitely. You can cook it low and slow the day before, keep it chilled in the fridge, and then glaze and roast uncovered on the day to reheat and get that sticky finish. Leftovers are incredible.

What do I serve this with?
Honestly, it’s good with almost anything. Potatoes, grains, flatbreads, a crisp salad, or just a heap of pickled onions and some yoghurt on the side. You don’t need to get too complicated.

How spicy is this?
It depends on your harissa or paste. If you’re using chipotle or a particularly hot harissa, it can bring a good amount of heat. If you’re feeding spice-averse guests, use a milder paste or mix it with something creamy or sweet to soften the edges.

Can I cook this in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?
You could, technically, but the texture and flavour from the oven method is much better for this one. The slow, uncovered glaze step at the end is what gives you the sticky exterior—you’ll miss that in a pressure cooker.

Perfect Roast Potatoes

Perfect Roast Potatoes

Crispy, golden, and fluffy on the inside—a classic side dish done right.

Serves 6 • Time: 15 mins prep, 1 hr 10 mins cooking

Ingredients

• 2kg floury potatoes (Maris Piper, King Edward, or Yukon Gold)

• 1/3 cup duck fat

• 1/3 cup sunflower or rapeseed oil

• 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

• Salt, to taste

• Olive oil, as needed

Method

1. Peel 2kg of potatoes, cutting them into large chunks—halves for smaller potatoes, and quarters for larger ones.

2. Place the chunks in a large bowl of cold water and let them sit on the countertop or in the fridge overnight to remove excess starch and ensure crispiness.

3. Drain the potatoes, then transfer them to a large pot. Cover with 2 litres of cold water and add 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda and a generous pinch of salt, ensuring the water tastes like the sea.

4. Bring to a boil and simmer gently until a knife slides through the potatoes easily, around 10-20 minutes. They should be just starting to break apart. Take care not to overcook them as they can turn into mash.

5. While the potatoes are boiling, place a large roasting tray in the oven along with 1/3 cup duck fat and 1/3 cup oil. You may need to use more fat depending on your roasting tray - aim for an even 3mm layer in the roasting dish.

6. Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F) and allow the fat to get very hot. Once the potatoes are tender, gently spoon them into a colander to drain. Pouring them in will cause them to break up.

7. Let them steam for 2-3 minutes to remove excess moisture. The potatoes should develop a slightly white, dry exterior. For extra crispiness, gently roughen the surface of the potatoes by shaking them lightly in the colander.

8. Carefully transfer the potatoes to the hot roasting tray. Spoon the hot fat over the potatoes instead of tossing them to avoid breaking them apart. Season well with fine sea salt.

9. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes, until they develop a light golden crust. Flip the potatoes again and roast for another 30-40 minutes, or until they are deep golden brown and crispy on all sides.

10. Remove the tray from the oven and use a slotted spatula to transfer the potatoes to a serving dish. If desired, drain excess oil on a paper towel before plating. Season with extra salt to taste and serve immediately.

Can I use olive oil?

Olive oil is not recommended for this recipe because it has a lower smoke point and can burn before it gets hot enough to crisp the potatoes properly. Stick with sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, or animal fats for the best results.

Why use duck fat?

The combination of duck fat (or another animal fat) and sunflower oil ensures maximum flavour and crispiness. The animal fat adds richness, while the sunflower oil helps the potatoes reach the high heat needed for a perfect golden crust. Goose fat, lard, or chicken drippings work wonderfully as an alternative to duck fat, offering a similar rich flavour and excellent crisping properties.

Can I make this vegetarian?

Yes, simply omit the duck fat and use a good-quality rapeseed or sunflower oil. You’ll still achieve crispy, golden potatoes with plenty of flavor.

Do I really need to soak the potatoes overnight?

Soaking the potatoes removes excess starch, which helps them crisp up beautifully in the oven. If you’re short on time, you can soak them for at least 30 minutes, but overnight is ideal for the crispiest results.

What’s the best potato variety to use?

In the UK, Maris Piper or King Edward potatoes are ideal. In the US, Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes work well. Opt for a floury variety with a high starch content for the best texture.

Can I prepare the potatoes ahead of time?

Yes, you can boil the potatoes and rough them up in advance. Let them cool completely, then store them uncovered in the fridge. This will help them dry out even further, resulting in extra crispy potatoes when roasted. Roasting them in advance is not advised as they will lose their crisp texture.

How do I prevent the potatoes from breaking apart when boiling?

Use a gentle simmer rather than a rapid boil to avoid over-agitating the potatoes. Cooking them whole or in large pieces also helps maintain their structure.

Brûléed Hot Cross Buns

The easiest Easter treat — toasted hot cross buns loaded with a cinnamon butter crust, grilled until the sugar bubbles and just catches.

Serves 4 • Time: 5 mins prep, 2–4 mins cooking

4 hot cross buns
2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
3 tbsp caster or demerara sugar
2 pinches of ground cinnamon

Slice the 4 hot cross buns in half and place cut-side up on a baking tray. Grill for 1–2 minutes until lightly toasted. Meanwhile, beat together the 2 tbsp softened butter, 3 tbsp sugar and 2 pinches of cinnamon with a spoon until you have a rough, sandy paste.

Spread generously and evenly over the cut surface of each toasted bun. Return to the grill for 1–2 minutes, watching closely, until the sugar is bubbling and just starting to catch at the edges.

Serve immediately.

Note: Demerara gives a crunchier, caramelized finish than caster — both work. If you’re using homemade milk bread buns, make sure they’re fully cooled before you start so they hold up under the grill.

How are we all doing? It has been frosty in London this week, but the few pockets of sunshine have been enough to keep the promise of spring alive for me. I am barely holding on at this point……

Another thing keeping the promise of spring alive? Easter, otherwise known as secretly the best eating holiday (sorry, Christmas!). I think there’s also something especially luxurious about a long weekend, mostly centered around copiously buttered buns and chocolate. So it will come as no surprise that this week we’re playing the Easter hits – lamb and hot cross buns.

First, the Sweet & Sticky Lamb Agrodolce. Lamb for Easter? I know, but I love a good theme around here, and I think this one is especially delicious. Every Easter, I like to change up the lamb method and this year, I’ve been inspired by agro dolce – a classic Italian condiment made from, amongst other things, honey, vinegar and chilli. Literally translated, it means sweet and sour, which explains all you need to know about the flavour profile. There are various iterations of agro dolce out there; some contain caramelised onions, others contain pine nuts or raisins. The bottom line is you want something that balances sweet and acidic.

While this lamb doesn’t contain any agro dolce, per se, it definitely embodies the characteristics of agro dolce- a fruit (dates), sticky shallots, balsamic, nuts and more acidity (red onion pickle). The marinade is a mix of tomato paste, balsamic vinegar, garlic, chilli flakes and herbs. The leg is cooked over a bed of shallots and dates, and the entire dish is finished with a red onion pickle-y salad, which, if you’re keeping count, all come together to create this sweet, sticky, bright result.

The key points here are, of course, the cooking of the lamb. I’ve opted for a leg of lamb, bone-in, and in my effort to make hosting a breeze, you can leave this to do its thing in the oven overnight. After a short burst in the oven at 220°C to develop some colour, you reduce the temp to 100°C or 120°C – depending on how much time you have – and then forget about it for 7 - 12 hours. You’ll know it’s done when the meat is falling off the bone (and you can remove said bone by gently tugging it) and you can easily tear the meat apart into chunks with a spoon. Other than that, all you have to do is make a quick pickle of finely diced red onion to leave overnight. This eventually gets combined with fresh herbs and pistachios to be scattered over the melting lamb, which cuts through all that rich sweetness.

TLDR- Its relatively easy, it looks bloody fantastic and tastes even better. Chunks of pulled lamb, sticky dates and shallots, and a pile of fresh herbs, pistachios and red onion pickle to finish. She’s not just a moment, she’s THE moment. You can make it in advance and reheat it! Win.

Next up, we’re doing The Softest (Fresher for Longer) Hot Cross Buns. You might wonder why bother with homemade buns when there are some truly exceptional ones available at all good bakeries. My response to that is, why not bother? There’s something really satisfying about making your own hot cross buns over Easter but these are so failsafe that you can even make them a few days ahead of Easter a one game changing technique will keep these lovely and soft for days. Drawing on a Japanese milk bun method, these are really forgiving and will keep fresh for longer than the average homemade hot cross bun recipe. It starts with a traditional tangzhong – a technique that pre-cooks a portion of the flour in water or milk before adding it to the dough, which ultimately extends the bread’s life and makes it more tender and fluffy. This dough is also enriched with eggs and butter, further adding to the soft texture. In addition to the classic hot cross bun flavours – cinnamon, mixed spice, orange and sultanas – this recipe also features a lot of honey, which I think adds depth beyond just sweetness.

While you will ideally need a stand mixer for this (you can make them by hand- its just a touch sticky) then leave the dough to prove in the fridge overnight. this does two things: it develops a really lovely depth of flavour, and it makes the dough much easier to handle. Cold dough is a dream to shape, especially one this enriched, so don’t skip that part. From there, one final rise for the buns (last time, I promise) and then into the oven. If you start shaping first thing in the morning, you’re looking at fresh hot cross buns by mid-morning, no stress. Serve them torn open straight from the oven with a truly unreasonable amount of salted French butter - thick enough that you can see your teeth marks in it is my benchmark. Or, for something a bit extra the way my family eats them- BRÛLÉED! Mix dark brown sugar and a good pinch of cinnamon into equal parts soft butter, spread it generously over the cut halves and grill until bubbling and caramelised. Allow to cool a bit to form the crust then dive in.

And that’s that. A very achievable Easter meal, complete with homemade hot cross buns. A great way to spend a long weekend, if you ask me.

Happy (Easter) cooking!
Jess

Sweet & Sticky Lamb Agrodolce

Slow-roasted lamb with dates, balsamic, herbs and pistachios. Rich, tender meat balanced with sweet, sharp and fresh flavours.

Serves 8–10 • Time: 20 mins prep, 7 hrs cooking (or up to 12 hrs low-roast)

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Hello and happy Sunday,

I am coming to you a year older and wiser, because I celebrated my birthday this week – happy birthday to me! And like any good Pisces, I treated myself to a dreamy few days eating all kinds of delicious things. Shoutout to Rye, where I spent the day mooching about and Barang, in London, where I had a great meal.

Continuing with the birthday theme, this week’s newsletter is kind of like a gift to myself because I’ve done two of my desert island/death row dishes.

Starting off, we’ve got a Hot Thai Breakfast Bun. As the name suggests, this is my take on the classic egg-and-sausage patty combo. A bougie breakfast bun is genuinely my go-to brunch order – I will always, always choose it over anything else on the menu. As a nod to my time in Thailand, I’ve kicked things up a notch with a spiced sausage patty and egg combo inspired by Thai fried egg salad (yam kai dao). A quick note that if you’re in the UK, you can use regular pork sausages, squeezed out of their casings, and if you’re in the US, look for a mild, unsmoked breakfast sausage, casing removed.

The rest of the recipe is pretty straightforward. You’ll make a sausage patty combined with red curry paste, fry up a crispy AF Thai fried egg (all the tips are in the recipe), then finish with a yam kai dao dressing, which is a punchy, limey fish sauce number that really brightens the whole thing up, plus a few coriander leaves and sliced chilies to garnish. What you end up with is a crispy, toasty, buttery brioche bun, a hot sausage patty (adjust the heat as you like), a golden fried egg that just bursts when you bite into it, and these little pickly shallots. The whole thing is just glorious. For anyone taking note for next year, this is what I’d like to wake up to on my birthday.

Then, we’re doing Mussels alla Vodka with Ultimate Air Fryer Fries. Yes, alla vodka again – it’s my birthday, sue me! And I’ll be honest, this is a genuine death row dish for me. Mussels are an absolute powerhouse that I think are wildly underrated. High protein, low calorie, packed with minerals, and one of the easiest things you can cook. I picked up two kilos from my local fishmonger for £9.50, and the whole dish came in at around £12.50. Even on Ocado, you can get really well priced Scottish mussels from Loch Fyne for £6 a kilo, so there’s really no excuse not to make this.

Now, the thing I always come back to with mussels is the sauce. They usually come in a big, deep pot, which is part of the pain point, but I’ve had so many where the broth just sits watery at the bottom. Which means your fries can’t even reach it, and the mussels themselves are completely sauceless until you dig right down. And if you know me at all, you know that is not something I’m willing to accept. You need a sauce that really clings.

Remember that gorgeous cabbage alla vodka from a few weeks ago? You all went a bit crazy for it. Well, it works just as brilliantly here. I’ve sped up the flavour-building with tomato paste and nduja (or Calabrian chilli paste if you want to keep this pescetarian-friendly), then in goes the vodka and cream. The sauce is punchy, tomatoey, and it sticks right to every mussel. Pure joy.

If you’ve never cooked mussels before, allow me to guide you. Buy them as close to cooking as possible, keep them in the fridge in a loosely covered bowl so they can breathe, and cook them within a day or two. Give them a good scrub and pull off any beards – that’s the little stringy tuft poking out of the shell that the mussel uses to anchor itself. Discard anything with a broken or open shell, though worth noting that mussels can naturally open slightly in the fridge – give them a gentle squeeze and if they start to close, they’re alive and perfectly fine to cook. Once cooked, discard any that don’t open afterwards. That’s genuinely it. We’ll dive into more detail in the recipe notes.

The other little hack is the fries. I adapted this method from @chrisyoungcooks on Instagram, who did an incredible French fry recipe you need to look up immediately. I’ve tweaked it for thin and crispy fries, using McCain crispy French fries, but a steakhouse fry works just as well if you prefer something chunkier.

And there you have it. My death row meals, fit for a birthday celebration. My gift to you – and me!

Happy cooking! Jess

Hot Thai Breakfast Bun

Crispy-edged eggs, spicy pork patties, and sharp fish sauce–lime shallots

Serves 4 • Time: 20 mins prep, 25 mins cooking

Ingredients

500 g pork sausage meat, casings removed* see note

2 tbsp Thai red curry paste

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Hello!

I can confidently say I’ve made the most of rhubarb season this year, but what I’m most proud of is the user-friendly ways I’ve incorporated it into my weekly rotation. I’ll be the first to admit that I often get caught up in the hype of something seasonal, only to find that I can’t (or don’t want to) weave it into my family’s meals for the week. Because let’s be honest, who is really making custard on a Wednesday to serve with poached rhubarb?

So, this week, I’ve got two easy, family-friendly recipes that just happen to make use of the rhubarb from the last week – specifically, the pickled rhubarb and the poached variations.

Starting with the pickled rhubarb. I’ve used this in a Crispy Chicken With Seedy Pea and Pickle Pilaf. Pilafs are a great one-pan meal guaranteed to keep the whole family happy, and this one is a nod to spring with sugar snap peas and, of course, that pickled rhubarb. We’re not reinventing the wheel here, and while you can use any pickle you like, this is a great way to show off your rhubarb pickle (or use up the last little bits of it if you’re nearing the end!).

Then, onto using the poached/roasted rhubarb. We’re doing a play on rhubarb and custard, but we’re making it breakfast-appropriate and healthy. Enter Rhubarb-and-Custard Oats. If you’ve been following me since the beginning, you’ll know I’ve actually been making custard oats since 2022, so while they’ve been doing the rounds on TikTok lately, this is a long-standing favourite in our house rather than a trend follow. They’re a great high-protein, slow-release breakfast, and I made a triple batch this week and very happily ate them for three mornings in a row. The method is simple: whisk together eggs and milk, then gently stir them into hot oats. There are two key components to getting the texture right, the first being the egg-and-milk element, but the other is soaking your oats beforehand. No disrespect to my very fancy, very uptight, culinary school, but their insistence that creamy oats can only be achieved by laboriously stirring for 30 minutes just isn’t true. Soaking your oats for at least 30 minutes (but ideally overnight!) is the hack here , and then you cook them as normal in 10 to 15 minutes. A good egg matters here too. I’m a Clarence Court devotee for that deep golden yolk, and the result is this silky, luscious texture that is really more dessert-for-breakfast than a sad bowl of porridge. A pinch of salt is non-negotiable. And if you’re making this for a baby and skipping the honey, swap in a medjool date or two and blend with the eggs. Natural sweetness, extra fibre!

The combination of the soaked oats and the egg/milk mix is a really rich, creamy and custard-y texture, which you can obviously top with anything you like. But let me tell you that your poached or baked rhubarb is the ideal topping here and plays into the rhubarb-and-custard combo perfectly. I especially love the contrast of cool rhubarb with the warm oats, but you can also gently warm the fruit if you’d prefer. Come summer, a nutty granola and honey roasted peaches are INCREDIBLE!

And there you have it. Two recipes using rhubarb you’ll actually make at home.

Happy cooking!

Jess

Crispy Chicken With Seedy Pea and Pickle Pilaf

A one-pan pilaf with crispy chicken thighs, sugar snap peas, and a punchy pickle finish.

Serves 4 • Time: 15 mins prep, 40 mins cooking

4 skin-on chicken thighs (bone-in or boneless)

250 g sugar snap peas

¼ cup pickled rhubarb, pickled red onion, or pickled jalapeños

1 onion

2 garlic cloves

Read more

Right, this is the one I promised on Sunday — the basics. How to poach rhubarb and how to air fry/roast it. Nothing complicated here, just good technique and a few things worth knowing before you cook with rhubarb properly.

Sweet Poached Rhubarb is the one to reach for when you want to keep the pieces intact and that colour as vivid as possible. The ratio method means you can scale it to whatever you’ve got — no guess work. It’s patient cooking, low and slow, and the overnight chill in the syrup is where the magic happens. Worth the wait. The syrup makes a fantastic spritz with some soda and a squeeze of lime.

Roasted Rhubarb with Vanilla is faster and a little more relaxed about the whole thing. My go to mostly. You get soft, syrupy pieces and a sticky pink pool in the bottom of the tray that you will absolutely want to spoon over everything. Air fryer or oven, both work — just keep an eye on it the first time, every rhubarb stalk is slightly different in thickness.

The last rhubarb recipe is landing this Sunday. Go get cooking.

Jess x

Sweet Poached Rhubarb

A gentle, ratio-based method for perfectly intact poached rhubarb with a vivid pink syrup. Scale it to whatever you have.

Serves 6 • Time: 10 mins prep, 10 mins cooking (plus chilling)

500g rhubarb (starting weight, before trimming)

Sugar (30% of your trimmed rhubarb weight)

Water (50% of your trimmed rhubarb weight)

Optional Flavourings: orange zest, vanilla, star anise, cardamom

1. Trim the tops and tails off the rhubarb. Don’t guess the weight — weigh it after trimming. You’ll usually end up with around 450g. Cut into your desired lengths, keeping pieces a similar thickness so they cook evenly. If any stalks are very thick, split them lengthways first.

2. Use your trimmed weight to calculate: sugar = 30% of trimmed weight, water = 50% of trimmed weight. For 450g trimmed rhubarb, that’s 135g sugar and 225ml water.

3. Toss the 500g rhubarb with the measured sugar and any optional flavourings. Leave to macerate for 10–15 minutes until it starts to look juicy.

4. Tip the rhubarb and its juices into a saucepan, add the measured water, and place over a very low heat. Bring to just under a simmer — keep it gentle, no boiling. Cook for about 5 minutes, until the smallest pieces are just soft when pierced with a skewer.

5. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift the rhubarb out onto a cold roasting tray in a single layer to stop it cooking further. Pour the syrup into a separate container and chill both. Once cool, transfer the rhubarb to a glass container, cover with the chilled syrup, and refrigerate overnight for the best colour and flavour.

6. Serve with yoghurt, porridge, ice cream, or alongside custard. The syrup is lovely stirred into sparkling water or spooned over cake.

Easy Air Fryer/Roasted Rhubarb with Vanilla

Soft tangy roasted rhubarb with a bright pink syrup. Faster and more forgiving than poaching.

Serves 4 • Time: 5 mins prep, 12–17 mins cooking

250g rhubarb

50g sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 tbsp water

Rinse the 250g rhubarb, trim the ends and cut into 8cm pieces. Add to a snug metal roasting tray and sprinkle over 50g sugar. Toss gently so the pieces are coated, then arrange in a single layer. Drizzle over 1 tsp vanilla extract and add 1 tbsp water. Cover the tray tightly with foil.

To cook in an air fryer, set to 170°C/340°F and cook for 11–17 minutes depending on the thickness of the rhubarb.
To cook in the oven, preheat to 185°C/365°F, cover with foil and bake for 11–17 minutes until tender and syrupy.

The rhubarb is ready when it’s bright pink, holding its shape, and easily pierced with a fork. You should have a sticky pink syrup in the bottom of the tray. Serve warm or cold.

Great on yoghurt, porridge, ice cream, or with custard. Keep an eye on it the first time — thickness varies a lot between stalks.

Note: This recipe was tested in a metal roasting tray. If opting for a ceramic roasting dish be sure to allow for an extra 2-3 minutes of cook time.