A new hotel has officially broken into my top 3 of all-time. That hotel is Ästad Vingård on the West Coast of Sweden, located in the Åkulla beech forests nature reserve. It’s the closest I’ve come to feeling safari-like hospitality outside of that context. From the very early Swedish sunrise, to the very late Swedish sunset, it is like a luxurious adult summer camp. We took the train from Stockholm, but I think it could be a perfect retreat from Copenhagen as well.

Notably, the hotel does no advertising. It’s nearly entirely occupied by Swedes, escaping to one of the most impressive spa hotels in the country, ideally situated in one of the largest vineyards in Sweden’s blooming wine region.

While you can easily spend the entire day at the spa, here is the blueprint for how we spent our perfect day at a truly flawless property.

9am. morning fika.

The hotel preps a welcome fika to start your day on the right foot. The coffee is delicious, and the interior design by Copenhagen-based Norm Architects is truly remarkable. Scandinavian minimalism at its best.

10am. nature reserve hike.

The hotel then packs you a backpack for your hike, including “fikabullar,” a thermos for tea and coffee, and fresh rhubarb lemonade. You’ll venture out through the vineyards, and make your way down the road to the moderately challenging Älvasjöstigen hike.

1pm. 3-course lunch.

The hotel has two incredible restaurants on property. While Michelin-starred ÄNG is closed during the weekend, Logen was still exceptional. Everything at both restaurants is farm-to-table, mostly from the property itself. The chicken was the standout for us, along with the fresh strawberry cake.

2pm. room check-in.

I highly recommend booking the Sjöparken villas on property, each fitted with their own private sauna. They sit directly on the water, where you can take a cold plunge any time of day. The architecture features living roofs, and the buildings are inspired by Nordic fishing houses, connected by glass corridors reflecting off the lake surface.

2:30pm. wine tasting.

After checking into your room, venture up the hill for a quick wine tasting. Sweden is relatively new to the wine-making scene, but the property is well-regarded for sparkling Solaris.

Notably, the estate is a farm that’s belonged to the same family for three generations. The third generation, having worked the farm since childhood, took over Ästad Gård in 2010 and pivoted it from an ecological dairy farm into the vineyard it is today. The first vines are still in their infancy, being planted in 2011.

3pm. spa time.

Sinnenas Spa has everything. From the underwater sauna to the 110°C inferno sauna, I really mean everything. In between the nine unique saunas, there are natural springs for a cold plunge. Every corner is distinct and designed as if it was the centerpiece of the entire space. I’ve never been in a more impressive spa space. My favorites were the boat dock sauna designed with reclaimed wood and the light wood sauna in the back building.

Technically, you reserve a spa time, but it is unofficially available to guests until it closes at 11pm.

7pm. sunset drinks.

We used this time to grab a glass of sparkling wine from the property and sit in the hot tub admiring the sunset off the back of the hotel.

8pm. 5-course dinner.

Every evening, all the guests are given a 5-course dinner, which changes daily. Again, the food is so fresh and creative, and I didn’t feel like we were getting a lesser experience by not dining at ÄNG. As a tip, I’d recommend firing up your private in-room sauna before walking out the door for dinner.

10pm. private sauna.

Settle in for bed with a final sauna session (and a cold plunge, if you’re tougher than I am). It’s impossible not to get a good night sleep after the day’s activities.

8am the next day. 3-course breakfast and spa.

This might have been my favorite meal of the entire trip. Any place that has a breakfast sorbet as part of the menu is going to be high on my list.

The spa is also available to guests for the entire day of check-out, so take advantage of it if you have a bit more time.

A note on transportation: This hotel is easy to reach from Copenhagen, and would pair nicely with a trip there. Due to the travel time from Stockholm, we took the train to Varberg the evening before, and a taxi to the property the morning of our stay.

Palazzo Radomiri is for someone who values the perfect balance between history and modern comforts. Who wants to be able to jump into the sea at any moment of the day. Who loves a small boutique property where you recognize every other guest staying there, with a friendly crowd who you might share a sunset aperol spritz with. While staying in Montenegro, I had the opportunity to spend four days at Palazzo Radomiri, and I sat down with the owner and co-founder of the property, Anna Urošević to learn more about its history and restoration to make it the gem that it is today.

When you walk in the hotel’s bar, the first thing you’ll see is an old Venetian map of Kotor Bay from 1688, made by the famous cartographer, Coronelli Vincenzo Maria. If you look a bit closer, you’ll see a marked villa to the north, “Radomiri.” The Palazzo once belonged to the “Radimiri”, a wealthy Italian naval family, but today it is named in honor of this famous misprint. It was the crown jewel of the region, situated in Kotor’s most desirable location.

Fast forward, and the glamorous property was reduced to rubble following an earthquake in 1979. While looters took much of the original stone, the hotel’s founders, the late Gavrilo Urošević and his daughter, Anna, took a liking to the soul of the property. An architect and a designer, Anna described the onerous effort of rebuilding the hotel to its former glory, which was completed in about two years. It became Montenegro’s first Heritage Hotel, and is celebrating its 20th Anniversary next year in 2027.

Although designated as a heritage hotel, Anna said that designation aligned with their vision for the property as well. As you stroll through the various buildings, you can’t help but notice all of the heritage still intact. The Radomari family’s coat of arms is carved into the chapel door and painted on the primary entrance corridor. Sitting down with Anna, she pointed out an original stone cross on the back building, likely from the family’s second chapel, watching over and protecting the property today.

What struck me the most was the design of the property. Despite being made entirely of stone, the hotel had a remarkable warmth, no doubt brought by Anna’s design work. As an interior designer and architect herself, she worked to source as much genuine Montenegrin antiques as possible. Living in London during much of the restoration, she brought pieces back to their homeland in her suitcase. She can tell you the story of every piece in the hotel, as each was hand-selected by her. The focal piece of our room was the writing desk, perfectly positioned as it probably was in a former life, looking out directly onto the sparkling bay.

The hotel has 10 rooms and suites, each named after a boat in the Radomari fleet. Prices range between $215-$500 per night, with the hotel closing during the rainy season. We stayed in Speranza, which is a very comfortable and spacious suite with an unobstructed view overlooking the sea. It has a separate bedroom, bathroom, and living room full of antiques from Montenegro and the former Yugoslavia. The room was quiet, bright, and airy, exuding the tranquility and history of the region.

The private dock was the most special part of the property. I’m notoriously partial to hotels with private cliffside loungers, and was pleasantly surprised to find that Dobrota is a long stretch of docks, ideal for jumping straight into the sea at any time of day. After having a wonderfully fresh breakfast in the hotel’s courtyard, our daily rhythm involved hours on the dock swimming in the sea. At lunch, we’d find ourselves on the dock enjoying the hotel’s homemade pizzas and a crisp greek salad. At golden hour, I’m convinced there was no better view in Kotor Bay to see the sunset with a cocktail in hand. After dinner, the dock would be host to balkan beats to ease you into the evening.

Although I didn’t take advantage of them, the hotel also has yoga classes, massages, paddleboards and bikes for rental, and a sauna built into the original stone foundation of the building. I could have comfortably spent a week at the hotel and wouldn’t have gotten bored. The friendly crowd skewed toward families with older kids and couples looking for a calm seaside retreat, rather than a scene.

Finally, the hotel couldn’t have had a better location. Kotor and Budva can both be a bit chaotic and crowded during the day, while Dobrota had an effortless and calm energy, with great restaurants, evening strolls, and the most beautiful views of Kotor Bay at sunset. Palazzo Radomiri’s stretch, in particular, also kept the cruise ships at a distance, so you could enjoy an entirely unobstructed view of the mountains at sunset.

Dobrota, which translates to English as “kindness,” is what will stay with me as I check out of the property. Anna and her entire team took the time to get to know us personally, and were always more than willing to help with anything we needed. Montenegro is one of the most beautiful and authentic places I’ve traveled in recent history, and that’s due in large part to places like Palazzo Radomiri. They aren’t trying to become the newest flashy piece of real estate in the Bay, but embracing the crown jewel that they always have been.

For booking, please reach out to Palazzo Radomiri directly.

It’s been a long time since I’ve been to a place quite as stunning as Montenegro. It’s been an even longer time since I’ve touched down somewhere and thought, “Wow, I made it just in time before the secret gets out.” Walking down the piers in Dobrota, everyone looks at ease. There’s no fighting for reservations, no lines, nowhere you really need to be other than right there and jumping into the sea. The seafood is caught right in front of you as you gaze around at the steep mountains on all sides. You mostly hear various Balkan languages being spoken, and the hotels still feel frozen in time. I had no idea what to expect on this trip, and safe to say, I quickly fell in love with this stretch of the Adriatic Sea.

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A guest post for The People’s Passport by Michelle Zelena of Zelena Travel

When Amber asked me to write about my perfect weekend upstate, I didn’t have to think very hard, because it’s a weekend my husband Max and I have been quietly perfecting for over a decade. We started coming up to the Hudson Valley in our early 20s when we were just dating, back when a weekend away meant whatever cabin we could afford, and somewhere along the way it stopped being a getaway and became the place we measure everything else against. We’re raising our two kids here now, and I still plan our weekends like a visitor who can’t quite believe she gets to stay.

If you only make it up once a year, make it a fall weekend. October in the Hudson Valley is the whole region showing off, the ridgelines go copper and rust, every farm stand is piled with apples, and the light in the late afternoon does something I have never been able to photograph properly. This itinerary is built around Kingston, Woodstock, and High Falls, which is my home turf and, I’d argue, the most underrated stretch of the valley. Hudson gets the press, but this side of the river is where I’d send a friend.

One practical note before we start: leave the city by 3pm on Friday if you can. The drive is about two hours, and arriving with daylight left changes the entire weekend.

friday.

Check into Hotel Kinsley in uptown Kingston, a boutique hotel spread across a few restored historic buildings in the Stockade District, which is the kind of neighborhood where you can walk everything and every block has something worth stopping for. Drop your bags, take a lap past the shop windows (most close by 6, which is your excuse to come back tomorrow), and settle in slowly.

Dinner is Chleo, and I want to be clear that this is not a casual recommendation, it’s one of my favorite restaurants anywhere, city included. Farm-to-table gets thrown around a lot up here, but Chleo actually cooks like the farms are twenty minutes away, because they are. The menu changes constantly, the flavors are intentional in a way you notice, and the room manages to feel stylish and completely relaxed at the same time. Book ahead for fall weekends, it fills up.

After dinner, walk over to Stockade Tavern for a nightcap. It’s a classic cocktail bar in an old Singer sewing machine building, dim and unhurried, and exactly the right speed for your first night out of the city. If you still have gas after that, Tubby’s is the dive bar down in Midtown Kingston that feels like it was airlifted out of Brooklyn, in the best way.

saturday.

Start early at Fantzye Bagels. Full disclosure, my sister owns Neighborhood Bagels in Miami, so my bagel standards are set unreasonably high and live mostly out of state, but until she brings them north, Fantzye is my go-to up here, small sourdough bagels with seasonal schmears that sound fussy and taste perfect. Get there before 10 on a Saturday or be prepared to wait, and honestly, wait anyway.

Then drive the twenty minutes to Woodstock for Overlook Mountain, my favorite hike in the region. It’s about five miles round trip up an old carriage road, steady but very doable, and the payoff is twofold: sweeping views across the valley that in mid-October look completely unreal, and the ruins of a never-finished 1920s hotel near the summit that you get to wander through, which feels like stumbling onto a movie set. Trailhead parking is directly across from the Tibetan monastery and fills fast in foliage season, so this is the second thing worth waking up early for.

Back down in Woodstock, reward yourself with a slow lap through town. Woodstock Infusions is my re-centering spot, coffee and a little stream out back, and if your legs somehow want more after the mountain, they do a hot yoga class I try to make every time I’m in town. Grab lunch at Bread Alone, then poke through the shops on Tinker Street until you feel your city pace fully wear off.

The afternoon is the part of this weekend I plan everything else around: Westwind Orchard in Accord, about thirty minutes south. It’s an organic orchard with apple picking, a cidery, wood-fired pizza, and live music on fall weekends, and it’s one of those places where you plan to stay an hour and leave four hours later, cider-happy, with a bag of apples you didn’t need. If it’s the right October weekend, Field + Supply is also running its fall makers market at the Hutton Brickyards on the Kingston waterfront, and I genuinely plan weekends around it, handmade goods, vintage finds, and local food along the Hudson. Check the dates before you come up, because if it’s on, it’s worth rearranging for.

Dinner is Ollie’s Pizza in High Falls, and yes, you should drive out for pizza, because it’s the best pizza in the Hudson Valley and I don’t say that lightly. The onion pie is elite, order it even if it doesn’t sound like your thing, along with whatever seasonal pie they’re running. If you’d rather stay in Woodstock, Good Night does Asian fusion in the coziest, buzziest room in town, and either way you’re ending the night happy.

If you have anything left, Woodstock is one of the great small music towns in America, check the calendars at Levon Helm Studios and Colony before your trip, because catching a show at either one is the kind of night you’ll still be talking about at dinner parties in February.

sunday.

Sunday is for going slow. Sleep in a little, then take your coffee to Rough Draft Bar & Books back in the Stockade District, an indie bookstore that pours great coffee and even better wine, and post up with a pastry for an hour, or three. This is also your window for the shops you scouted Friday night: Clove & Creek for home goods you’ll actually use, Exit Nineteen for the best-smelling candles in the region, and Après l’Amour for upcycled fashion with real point of view.

Before you head home, do one last easy walk at the Ashokan Reservoir, fifteen minutes west of town, a flat paved path with the Catskills laid out across the water, and in fall it’s about as good as scenery gets in this state. It’s the kind of walk that makes the drive home feel less like an ending.

And one last piece of very serious advice: time your departure around Moonburger, the drive-through burger and shake spot on your way out of Kingston, because ending an upstate weekend with a burger in one hand as the mountains disappear in the rearview is, honestly, the correct way to do it.

That’s the weekend. We’ve done some version of it in every season, with kids and without, and fall is the one I’d hand to anyone reading this. If you make the trip and want more, my full Ultimate Guide to Upstate New York breaks down every town in the valley, and if a specific trip question is on your mind, come find me at Zelena Travel, there’s truly nothing I love more than helping people plan this drive north.

Michelle Zelena writes Zelena Travel, a newsletter on travel worth the trip, from the Hudson Valley to wherever the next flight goes.

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This is by no means an exhaustive itinerary and admittedly after living on the Northern Beaches of Sydney for 3 years, it’s definitely more of my strong point. But if you were my friend, here’s exactly where I’d take you and what we’d do on a long weekend in Sydney. Warning: a lot of eating and drinking, so make sure you’re hungry.

It’s somewhere between early October and mid-December and it’s 28 degrees everyday. Perfect. You’d arrive on a Thursday afternoon, I’d pick you up from the airport of course.

thursday.

We’d head straight to Bar Copains in Surry Hills, park up on the footpath and have a Campari. One more drink on the balcony of The Clock before we decide where to go for dinner. Perhaps Bessie & Alma’s, maybe Zushi, or Pellegrino 2000 if we had a booking. If we had first night fever we’d be ending the night on the dance floor at The Beresford.

friday.

We’re spending the day at the Eastern Beaches before heading north for the weekend. We take our pick for coffee and a pastry at either Iggy’s or Cut Lunch Deli. After that we’re choosing where to park up for a few hours: Wylie’s Baths, Gordon’s Bay or Clovelly - anywhere will be lovely. After a few hours in and out of the water & reading our books we’ll stroll the catwalk that is the Bronte to Bondi walk. We’ll have a mooch around the shops and I’ll make sure we pop into the Wayside Chapel Op Shop. If we’ve got a booking we’re going for a late lunch at Sean’s, if we don’t we’re doing a walk-in at Raw Bar. We’re finishing off the day in Bondi with a sunset drink on the footpath at The Shop & Wine Bar. If we wanted one (or five) more we’d head to Bikini or Beach Road Hotel.

saturday.

We’re heading to the Northern Beaches! We start off with a morning class at Mode Pilates. Then we’re grabbing iced coffees from Skittle Lane, a bacon & egg roll from Sway and we’re taking the short walk along the water to Bower. We find a little spot to put our towels and we’re in and out of the water for the next few hours. You might even have a little snorkel. After that we’re taking a drive to the top of the Northern Beaches, we’re heading to Palm Beach! The windows are down and we’re singing at the top of our lungs, it’s going to feel like a mini road trip. If we’re feeling up to it we might walk up to the Palm Beach lighthouse, or we’ll just have another swim. We’ve got an early evening booking at Bert’s and we’re starting with oysters and margaritas. The night kicks on at The Newport, or perhaps we head back to Harbord Hotel in Freshwater or the Barrel Room in Manly.

sunday.

We start the morning in activewear with a late coffee and brekkie either at Calibrate or Noon. No hangovers here - we’re fueling up for a big walk either around North Head or we’ll tackle the Spit to Manly. If last night got the better of us we might just wander around to Fairlight instead, perhaps a second coffee at boté. It’s mid-afternoon for our final stop. We’re choosing between the Skiff Club to watch the boats roll in and out of the harbour, or we’re catching a little sun trap outside at Pocket Pizza or Busta. We’re sipping our final aperol spritz and cheers-ing to just how lucky we are.

*You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

Jessie is the co-founder and chief creative officer of Loeffler Randall. When not writing her newsletter (or running her company), she is happiest playing tennis, knitting, or spending time with her three kids. For little peeks inside her world, follow along on her Instagram, too.

This is how she spends her perfect weekend in the Hamptons…

friday.

On Friday, I like to spend time in my garden and make floral arrangements for the house for the weekend. I also stop at The Splendid Stitch for needlepoint supplies, and of course, Round Swamp Farm to stock up on some muffins and other delicious prepared foods to have on hand for the weekend.

saturday.

I wake up early and walk to town in Bridgehampton with my neighbor, Nikki. We stop at Pierre’s for an iced coffee.

On a Saturday, it’s fun to go antiquing. I start in Sag Harbor at my favorite antiques shop, Sage Street Antiques (great selection and affordable prices), and then drive to Greenport to visit Beall and Bell, the antique shop where I got the yellow chairs for my kitchen.

On the way back from Greenport, I love to stop for a cocktail and dinner at Sunset Beach in Shelter Island. You really do feel like you’re in Europe at this fun, festive restaurant looking out over the calm water of Shelter Island.

sunday.

I wake up and take a tennis clinic in the local park in Sag Harbor, Mashashimuet Park. After tennis and a shower, I walk to have lunch at Candy Kitchen, a diner and ice cream shop that’s been in business over 100 years. It is the cutest place!

We head to the beach after a grilled dinner and make s’mores at Ocean Road Beach.

I’ve been living in Stockholm for six months. This means that I’m familiar enough with the city to feel confident sharing the places I’ve personally vetted and loved, yet not familiar enough to publish a definitive “local’s guide” like my typical posts (I promise it will come; just not until I’ve been here at least a year). So these posts are a new evolution for that exact in-between. I’ll keep this list updated until I’m able to publish my full local’s guide to a perfect weekend in Stockholm.

And let me be clear about the standard. “Hearts” on my Google Map are not given to places I visited and liked…they are given to the places that have blown me away enough that a trip back in town wouldn’t be complete without visiting them again. Those places that feel like something really special.

I started this series on my most recent trip to Rome, and thought I’d finally share a version for my new home. Inspired by an upcoming meetup with another Substacker who is in town, along with months of showing friends around the city, here is my list of “hearts.”

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This was my third time in France this year alone, but my first time in the south of France. So naturally, to plan, I had to read every Substack ever written about the best spots to visit in the region. Every market, every hotel, every town…I spent months consuming as much as I could. I’m trying to get back to my more spontaneous travel roots, but this was not the trip for that. South of France in July requires reservations months in advance and obsessive planning. And I must say, I planned it very well. So without further ado, here’s what we did, what I loved, and what I’d do differently…

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I’m so lucky. For the last month, I can count on one hand how many days we’ve had without guests. It’s the most beautiful time of the year here in Sweden, and I’m absolutely thriving showing the people I love around my new home. While I haven’t lived here long enough to confidently share my “local’s guide to Stockholm” with you quite yet, I do feel like I had three pretty spectacular visits over the last month—one with the coolest member of our family, my younger sister, one with my parents, and one with dear friends and their toddler in tow.

Each visit was planned differently to accommodate their styles, and here is exactly what we did.

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my sister.

day 1.

If anyone is coming to Stockholm from the US, I know they’re inevitably exhausted from (normally) at least a 2-stop flight. My sister came all the way from Seattle, so I knew the first stop would have to be gentle, yet energizing. So, in typical Swedish fashion, we headed to my local bakery, Valhalla, for some fresh pastries (local tip, they are warm and fresh out of the oven right when they open at 8am).

My cure for beating jet lag is to keep my body moving the first day. So, after she had time to settle in and freshen up, we walked through Djurgården to one of my favorite places in the city for lunch, Djurgårdsbrunn. My one tip is to make sure you come here on a weekday. My second unsolicited tip is to order the cardamom gröt.

After a long walk, we picked up fresh kanelbullar from Lillebrors (arguably the best bakery in town) and then we had a relaxing evening savoring some natural wine and Japanese food at Ambar.

day 2.

We started the morning in Humlegården with coffee and pastries from Pascal. Since it was a Saturday, we popped by Karla Frukt on the way home to get some Swedish candy.

Afterwards, we headed to Strawberry Arena for an AIK match. If you’re buying tickets, make sure you sit on one of the long sides—the two ends by the goals are standing room and for the serious fans.

After the match, we headed home and got some sushi for dinner. Stockholm has some of the best sushi of anywhere I’ve lived, so I really recommend seeking it out when you’re here.

day 3.

We started the morning with pilates at Burner Studio. I highly recommend their red-light room for a mat class.

Then, after a shower, we headed to one of my favorite gems in Stockholm.

Fjäderholmarna is such a great spot. It’s a 25-minute ferry from Stockholm, and small enough that you can walk the entire island in less than 15 minutes. I love grabbing a table in the sun at Fjäderholmarnas krog or a flight of beers at the Bryggeri Taproom.

On the way back, Lydmar Hotel is a great spot for Happy Hour if you’re looking to soak up a bit more sunshine.

I cooked this night, but if you’re looking for a dinner rec, I can recommend Bord, Ett Hem, or showing up to Lilla Ego right when they open.

day 4.

We started the morning at my favorite place in all of Stockholm, Rosendal’s Trädgård. When you’re here, stroll through the gardens, sit in the cafe, and make sure you swing by the greenhouse and boutique as well. I love picking up fresh jam here or their lingonberry salad dressing.

In a bit of an alternative plan, we then went for a hike in the Kärrtorp Nature Preserve. My sister loves hiking, and this area has a gorgeous spot to swim right by the lake.

On the way back, we toasted to our final night together at Ateljéns Pizza in Enskede, and got a mandatory gelato at my favorite spot outside of Italy, Lilla Gungans.

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my parents.

I think this is my favorite of the three itineraries. Part of that is probably due to the fact that we celebrated Midsommar together, and part of it is probably that they were my final visitors, so I had a lot of practice fine-tuning the best places.

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Hi there, I’m Catherine. I write CATHZINE, a food and travel publication aimed at empowering thoughtful and intentional consumption. I moved to East London in the fall of 2025 and have since fallen in love with its hipster and down-to-earth energy. When people think of London, what typically comes to mind are scenes of the buzzing shopping centers of Oxford Circus and Covent Garden, the West side’s stately neighborhoods of Marylebone and Kensington, or the media-famous Notting Hill and Paddington.

I’m not here to say those places aren’t worth visiting–they’re iconic for a reason (you do not want to miss this People’s Passport guide on West London). I’m just here to give you a reason to get to know another facet of London that not many people know. And the best part? You’ll be able to get some delicious carbs and your steps in, and it’ll only take a single morning.

Note: for those of you not familiar with the word “putz”, it’s a Yiddish word that is affectionately used to describe aimlessly walking. Like what you do when window shopping or checking out a cute area, and also what I like to use to describe bakery hopping!

So when Amber reached out for me to cover a pastry putz in London, I knew I wanted to highlight a characteristic that’s more prominent in East London: the London Overground railway and the arches underneath. From the sound of the trains to the blur of the orange as they zoom past, to the many railway arches repurposed to house businesses, you’ll notice how integral the railway system is to East London’s city planning as you walk this route!

And because London’s bakery scene is substantial, I’ve provided a couple of bakery options for each leg of the journey so you can customize your route to your preferences.

station 1: pomme bakery / jolene

Start your day off at Pomme Bakery on Kingsland Road and/or Jolene on Redchurch Street; both are right off the Overground Windrush Line.

Pomme Bakery is a single-location, independently-owned artisan bakery that has weekly seasonals that are always true-to-namesake, tasteful, and inventive. The key is to come here early, as they frequently sell out due to their limited kitchen capacity (which is why this is the first stop on the route!).

Jolene is more widely known: its hand-scrawled name and terracotta orange storefront are iconic. There’s a queue here most mornings, and while Jolene has multiple locations peppered throughout North and East London, this one on Redchurch Street has a unique “pick your own pastry” serving system inside that not many indie bakeries operate with.

Both value thoughtful sourcing of ingredients, supporting local farmers, and using Wildfarmed regenerative wheat flour for their bakes.

My Choice: Pomme Bakery, because everything I’ve had here has blown my mind. Read more here:

CATHZINE

An Artisan Bakery That’s Quietly Flying Under the Radar

If you’re near Shoreditch and walking on Kingsland Road, there’s not a chance you’ll miss Pomme Bakery. It’s not because Pomme has a flashy storefront, a million billboards advertising their name, or a long queue winding around the block—it’s quite the opposite. It’s the quiet beauty that emanates from the dusty, seafoam green storefront and the eleganc…

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7 months ago · 12 likes · 8 comments · Catherine

For this visit I ordered their Roasted Leeks, Goat Cheese Béchamel & Gruyère Danish (£4.90).

station 2: breidbakers

The walk to Breidbakers from Pomme Bakery/Jolene will take you through Brick Lane, which is known for its curry shops, vintage thrift, and graffiti-adorned walls. If you’re taking this walking tour on a Sunday, you’ll be able to enjoy Brick Lane’s weekly market on your way to the first bakery set in an Overground railway arch: Breidbakers.

Breidbakers is located on Dunbridge Street and is one of the few bakeries in London that stock cream- and jelly-filled doughnuts, ciabatta bun sarnies, laminated pastries, AND sourdough loaves! (p.s., all organic) Whether you’re in the mood for something light or substantial, sweet or savory, there’ll be something for you at Breid.

Note: they don’t have covered seating, but you can take shelter in the tunnel next door to enjoy your pastry if the weather isn’t friendly!

For this visit I ordered their Almond Croissant (£5.50).

station 3: yeast bakery / FORNO

Next stop is Yeast Bakery on Sheep Lane and/or FORNO on Andrews Road. The walk from Breidbakers will take you along the Overground rail north via Cambridge Heath Road, where you get to admire the heart of Bethnal Green.

FORNO will come up first, its storefront set in an Overground rail arch, its signature orange signage painted on the brick. FORNO is an Italian bakery with multiple locations in East London and is credited with popularising maritozzi in the city. Its menu is hearty and bready, featuring the Italian classics of gianduja buns, cornetti, olive-oil cakes, tiramisu, etc. Many of these complement coffee extremely well.

Just a block away is Yeast Bakery, a family-run bakery that makes all of their viennoiserie in-house, with their suprême croissants the star of the pastry case. They also offer a brunch menu and have one of the cutest interiors–between the ample natural light and the decor, it’s a serene respite and a great place to have a sit.

My Choice: Yeast Bakery, as I always like to support local and small when I’m able to.

For this visit I ordered their Strawberry Elderflower & Mascarpone Danish (£6.95).

station 4: the snapery east

As you continue north, Cambridge Heath Road transitions to Mare Street, and before you know it, you’re in Hackney!

The Snapery East is located in an Overground rail arch facing London Fields, its storefront tucked between a couple of buildings on Helmsley Place. This artisan bakery uses Wildfarmed regenerative wheat and organic flour, serves a light café menu and a full range of pastries, and has a homey, covered courtyard where you can dine in. The pastries here have a more classically rustic look and don’t compromise on taste.

For this visit I ordered their Raspberry Pistachio Pain Suisse (£4.20).

station 5: E5 bakehouse / pophams bakery

Just a hop and a skip away, you’ll find E5 Bakehouse on Mentmore Terrace and (around the corner) Pophams Bakery on Richmond Road.

E5 Bakehouse’s flagship location in Hackney is housed in yet another Overground railway arch, where you can grab pantry goods, hearty and organic breakfasts and lunches, and a selection of long-fermented sourdough bread, bakes, and pastries. E5 Bakehouse uses a heritage wheat variety that they grow and stone-mill in-house themselves, with all of their power sourced from renewable energy sources.

Pophams Bakery is an artisan viennoiserie that quickly became a core piece of London’s bakery scene and is on every Bread Head’s bucket list. Since its doors opened in 2017, it has expanded to multiple locations throughout North and East London, even opening up homeware and pantry goods shops. Their interior aesthetic draws from Japandi minimalism, giving the space a peaceful and tranquil ambiance.

My Choice: E5 Bakehouse, since as you know by now, I like to support small businesses whenever I can :)

For this visit I ordered their Strawberry Basil Pistachio Danish (£4.95).

final stats.

9,450 steps; 7 km; 2 hours—varies depending on how fast you walk, etc., but here are my stats!

Bakeries are a great excuse to explore a different area of a city. Even on this route it was difficult not to add on more bakehouses! I hope this inspired you to take a spin around East London!

If you enjoyed this, check out…

CATHZINE

A Pastry Putz in London's West End

The last time I did something like this, it was in the name of serious research 👇…

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6 months ago · 4 likes · 6 comments · Catherine

Before we get started — hi, I’m Charlotte. I’ve been writing on Substack for nearly two years, mostly covering the world of interior design. But for over a decade, I’ve been lucky enough to call New York home, and it’s a city that never stops inspiring me. The architecture shifts from neighborhood to neighborhood, the bars and restaurants are full of beautiful interiors, and if you’re looking to source something — anything — you can almost certainly find it here.

One of the things I love most about New York is how many cities it contains. You can travel from the Upper East Side to Cobble Hill and feel like you’ve landed somewhere entirely new. I’ve moved around enough to have former neighborhoods scattered across the boroughs — the UES, Chelsea, Williamsburg, Boerum Hill — which means I get to revisit old stomping grounds with fresh eyes and a healthy dose of nostalgia.

What follows is how I’d spend a weekend in the city right now, drawing on all of it. Whether you’re visiting from out of town or a local looking for a reason to venture beyond your usual rotation, consider this your guide to a weekend well spent.

first, when to visit.

There’s really no wrong time to visit the city, but weather should be your top factor when booking. Spring arrives late here — expect chilly, rainy weekends well into early June. Summer hits hard by late July and August, and if you’re taking public transportation (which I’d recommend as the easiest way to get around), be prepared to sweat. Fall is the sweet spot: beautiful weather that tends to hold through October. Winter is truly magical, but the cold makes it hard to enjoy the city the way it deserves — on foot. For the best chance at ideal weather, aim for June, September, or October.

friday night.

There’s no better introduction to New York than a Friday night in the West Village. Start at Commerce Inn — the bar area has a great energy and is a decent size so it’s easy to settle in, and the whole place gives old elevated pub in the best way. When you leave, pause on Commerce Street for a moment. It’s one of the most beautiful blocks in the city and worth the photo. From there, walk one block north to Zimmi’s for dinner, a charming French spot. Cap the night at Marie’s Crisis if you like showtunes and want a classic NYC experience.

saturday.

Start the morning at a farmer’s market. New York does these well, and the best ones — Prospect Park, Fort Greene, McCarren, Union Square — are worth orienting your day around. If you end up in Prospect Park, try to snag a spot at Agi’s Counter nearby for brunch. It’s a Jewish and Eastern European-inspired spot with simple but elevated fare.

From there, head to Atlantic Avenue. The stretch is one of Brooklyn’s best-kept shopping streets filled with shops carrying home goods, antiques, clothing. Don’t miss Humble House, Horseman Antiques, Antik, Seven Wonders, Porta, Salter House, Outline, or Toast.

When you’ve had your fill, Anaïs is a few blocks off the main drag and exactly what you’ll want by then: a wine bar and café on a brownstone-lined backdrop. Sit outside if you can.

There are tons of dinner options in the area—Bar Bête, Lonnies, Roman’s, Sailor, LaRina and Popina are all personal favorites worth heading to. End the night at Brooklyn Inn or Long Island Bar, two low key spots that will both be a good time.

sunday.

Two options, depending on your energy.

If you haven’t been uptown, it’s worth the visit. Stop at Butterfield Market for prepared food and bring it to Sheep’s Meadow for a picnic—or find any quiet patch of grass that isn’t overrun. Pair it with a museum: the Met, Frick, and Neue Galerie are all great options. If you’d rather skip the picnic, Neue Galerie has an incredible restaurant, Café Sabarsky, worth stopping in for a bite.

The other option is Williamsburg, where I lived for six years and still find myself returning to. It’s a good neighborhood for wandering—filled with cafes, shops and more. Make your way to Domino Park at some point for the skyline view. Favorites: Sobara’s and Stella Dallas for vintage clothing, Leif for home goods, Lella Alimentari for coffee and a late breakfast, and N 6th Street for the main shopping drag. Wind down at With Others or Sauced, both good wine bars in the neighborhood.

*You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

Hello, and welcome to the City of Angels!

Though I’m originally from the Bay Area, Los Angeles has my entire heart. The near year-round heat, the palm-lined streets, the city’s energy—it’s electrifying, inspiring, and dizzying all at once. Get ready for a fun weekend of exploring La La Land. Let’s dive in!

when to go.

LA is known as the land of eternal sunshine, though summers here tend to be gloomy. If you do want to soak in the sun, visiting July through October is your best bet. May and June are generally the gray months, so come in late spring or early summer if heat isn’t your style!

where to stay.

So many amazing places to stay in LA! A few of my favorite spots are:

• The Line Hotel, Koreatown

• The Conrad, DTLA

• Silver Lake Pool & Inn, Silver Lake

• The Chateau Marmont, Hollywood

• Hotel June, Malibu

friday.

On Friday, you’re exploring the breezy, laid-back West Side of LA. Start strong by picking up a smoothie at Erewhon in Venice Beach. Some of the smoothies (ahem, Hailey Bieber skin glaze smoothie) might cause a bit of sticker shock, but there are other options that are priced a little more reasonably. The Turmeric Crush ($16) is highly slept on in my opinion!

Next, drive up the beautiful coastal highway to the Pacific Palisades, where you’ll take a self-guided tour of the iconic Eames House. You have to book a slot in advance, but it’s well worth it to peek into one of the most impressive pieces of midcentury modern architecture LA has to offer.

After your tour, pick up lunch at Guisdados in Venice and make your way to the beach. These are some of my favorite tacos the city has to offer, and the fact that it’s mere blocks away from the ocean? Chef’s kiss. The Cochinita Pibil is one of my favorites—they specialize in braised meats here—but there are plenty of veggie options as well!

After lunch, head to Abbot Kinney, Venice’s shopping street, and peruse the boutiques and galleries. When you’re ready for a break, head to the natural wine speakeasy Force of Nature, situated in a cozy attic and featuring lineups of women-made natural wines.

Wrap up the night with dinner at Ospi, where you’ll need to try the fried provolone and the spicy rigatoni.

saturday.

Good morning! You’re heading east today—the I-10 freeway shouldn’t be as clogged up as it is on weekdays—but plan for a little traffic regardless. This is LA, after all.

You’ll start the day in Downtown LA, a neighborhood that catches a lot of flack for its grittiness. To be sure, it’s rough around the edges. But having lived and worked in DTLA for several years, I strongly believe that if you know where to find them, the gems in this neighborhood really shine.

Grab coffee at Il Caffè, the Swedish-owned coffee shop on a gorgeous historic corner of the Fashion District. The parklet outside gives major European summer vibes, but inside is just as cool. Fuel up on an iced Americano; they’re strong and bold here, exactly how I like them. From there, cruise over to the Broad, one of LA’s most iconic museums. Admission is free, and you’ll see works by the likes of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Andy Warhol, Takashi Murakami, Ellen Gallagher, and Cy Twombly, to name a few.

Spend Saturday afternoon in Silver Lake, one of the city’s trendiest neighborhoods and only about 15 minutes from downtown. Check out the I Love LA flea market before you grab a sandwich and perhaps a second caffeinated beverage at Bodega Park, which offers hearty deli sandwiches with Korean-inspired drinks. My personal favorite sandwich is the mantua, but the fried chicken caesar comes in as a close second. The nurungji latte (sweetened with a nutty toasted rice syrup) is my go-to bevvy. You really can’t go wrong here!

While you’re in the neighborhood, take a walk around the Silver Lake Reservoir or down Sunset Blvd. and pop into the many curated home goods and specialty shops.

You have options from here. You can stay in the Silver Lake/Echo Park area and visit the many beautiful places here for food or drinks; off the top of my head, I can recommend Donna’s for Italian, Bar di Bello for date night martinis, DADA for cocktails and Berlin vibes, Zebulon or the Shortstop for dancing (the Shortstop is especially fun after a Dodgers Game). Loop back around to Chinatown and catch a natural wine vibe under the Metro rail at Cafe Tondo. Or, seek a chiller atmosphere further west for happy hour oysters and martinis at Cento Raw Bar, a gorgeous spot in the West Adams neighborhood that looks like you’ve been submerged in a mermaid cave.

sunday.

It wouldn’t be a weekend in LA without fighting for your life in a hot pilates class. You’re cruising up to Hollywood on Sunday morning to take a class at Drenched, the most beautiful pilates studio in all the land. Bring a towel; you’re going to sweat. Refuel with brunch at Clark Street Diner, a recently-opened but already classic Hollywood outpost.

LA is the city of cinema, so it wouldn’t be right to come here without visiting an iconic theater. Catch a later matinee at the Egyptian Theatre on Hollywood Blvd. before walking the Walk of Fame. (It’s obligatory if this is your first time in LA, sorry!)

Cap off the evening with dinner at Musso and Frank, a classic Old Hollywood institution. It’s been around since 1919 and has been a staple for local legends like Eve Babitz, Marilyn Monroe, Mary Pickford, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and many others. The martinis here are excellent. Expect classic steakhouse fare like corned beef and cabbage, chicken pot pie, ribeyes and filet mignons.

*You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

A quick detour from travel content — though I’d argue this is actually very much about travel.

There’s a piece of advice that gets passed around a lot: think about how you spend your free time, and turn it into a career. For me, that’s always been languages. Before moving to Stockholm, I spent years working for one of the most-used language-learning platforms in the world. I was a Spanish major in college, which led to time living in Madrid. And now I’m somewhere in the middle—living in Sweden, with French and Italian ongoing in the background for fun.

I’ve also become a little obsessive about how to learn a language efficiently. I’ve done the research and landed on a formula I’ve basically repeated across Spanish, French, Swedish, and Italian.

One caveat: I wouldn’t call myself native-level fluent in any of these. But that’s never been the goal. My goal isn’t fluency — it’s fluidity. I want to be understood and to understand, without defaulting to English. I’ve done that. And these are the tools that got me there.

level 1…reading + vocab.

• ProfeDeELE : A great Spanish resource broken down by level and interests. I try to do 1-2 of these activities per week.

• Inner French: Hands-down the best self-guided French program I’ve ever done. It’s worth every penny.

• Fluenz: I’ve used Fluenz for both French and Italian, and felt like I progressed the quickest using their technique.

• Jiveworld: I really love Jiveworld for Spanish vocab. You listen to stories, and they do a great job of calling out unique vocab, slang, or grammar points. I feel like I’m really able to retain the info I learn from them.

• Complete Spanish Grammar: I actually really like grammar drills for learning, and this is the best version for Spanish that I’ve found.

level 2…listening.

Note: I typically listen in the native language, with that language’s subtitles. So for French, I’d watch in French with French subtitles.

• M6: The best resource for French-language reality TV. I love reality TV because it teaches you how native speakers actually talk. I don’t pause it every time I lack a word or phrase, but I do look up unfamiliar vocab if I hear it repeatedly.

• Mediaset: The equivalent for Spanish.

• YouTube: YouTube creators are equally useful for the same reason. A few I keep coming back to…

  • Spanish:

    • Shannon Leeman

    • Stephanie Durán

    • Aina Cardell

  • French:

    • janelle dltr

    • Claire Perrier

level 3…speaking.

Without question, the single most important thing you can do to learn a language is speak. Speak and make mistakes because they stick with you better than any other strategy will. I’ve always worked with a tutor for whatever language I’m studying, regardless of whether I’m a beginner or advanced. Italki is a great place to start (if you’d like a discount for italki, you can use my code here).

Below is my little black book — these are people I've personally worked with and would recommend without hesitation…

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I might not be originally from Melbourne, but after seven years of living my absolute best life here, I think I’ve earned Melburnian status.

In that time, I’ve probably explored this city more than most locals ever will — partly because there’s something special about discovering a place as an outsider. Everything feels exciting, full of possibility, and worth paying attention to.

And Melbourne really has so much to fall in love with. When Amber first asked me to write this, I genuinely felt overwhelmed by the responsibility of doing it justice. Narrowing down my favourite spots felt nearly impossible, but I did my best to curate the true crème de la crème.

So without further ado, here is my unofficial love letter to Melbourne — and the exact itinerary I’d hand to a friend visiting for a long weekend.

when to go

The best time to visit is from late December through to late March. Sunny days are basically non-negotiable if you want to experience the city properly. I’d hate for your first impression to be the miserable period we somehow survive from June to November.

If I had to narrow it down even further, I’d say mid to late January without hesitation. Not only do you get the best weather, but you also arrive right in the middle of the Australian Open — arguably Melburnians’ favourite time of year.

That said, it’s worth noting that Melbourne is infamous for its unpredictable weather. There’s a very real possibility you’ll visit in the middle of summer and still find yourself needing an umbrella or a coat.

My best advice? Layer up and always come prepared.

where to stay

I’m a city girl through and through, so naturally, I’m going to recommend a few hotels in the city — and don’t worry, you’ll be staying in the nice part of town.

Melbourne is built around one main CBD, so basing yourself in the city makes getting around easy, whether you want to head north, south, east, or west.

My picks are:

The Hotel Windsor — Melbourne’s grand heritage hotel

Hyde Melbourne Place — modern, design-forward luxury (and home to ACOFFEE, which alone is reason enough)

Park Hyatt Melbourne — if it’s good enough for Dua Lipa, it’s good enough for you

friday — east end to late night rituals

If you’ve taken my advice and based yourself in the east end of the city, you’re at a great place to start your weekend.

But first, coffee. Melbourne’s coffee scene is world-renowned and lucky for you, wherever you go, there’s a good chance you’ll have the best coffee of your life. But just to make sure you don’t choose badly, I recommend ACOFFEE, Palace Coffee, Patricia, Traveller, and Market Lane.

Grab a hefty almond croissant, or whatever pastry those cafés are offering that day. It’s a ritual for us locals, and you’ll need that carb overload for the big walk ahead.

Next, walk down Bourke Street, starting with two iconic bookshops — Hill of Content and Paperback — just as I like to do on idle days. Make sure to grab a book as a souvenir, something that’ll remind you of your trip while you’re reading it back at home — it beats a magnet or a keychain.

As you wander down, if you’re a multiple-coffees-a-day kind of person, make a stop at Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar for a shot of espresso (true Italian style) and consider coming back at lunchtime for a massive portion of pasta.

Local tip: At Pellegrini’s, you can ask for a smaller portion of your pasta, but also... don’t?

From there, you can go on a little shopping spree on and around Bourke Street Mall, with a mandatory stop at Mecca’s flagship store. Whether you’re into beauty or not, you’ll want to visit this heritage building just to appreciate the interiors and the art.

Don’t skip the Mecca Perfumeria on Level 1. The fragrance floor is its own experience with advanced technology scent stations that are genuinely fun to play with.

Even writing this, I can feel the hunger creeping in. It’s time for a good lunch. Melbourne is going through a serious sandwich boom right now and I believe some of them really do deserve the hype. Hector’s Deli is the place to go — no alternatives. Their Hot Honey Salami sandwich is my go-to, and I like to add a cold potato salad and a cinnamon sugar donut to my order whenever I’m feeling cheeky (aka every single time).

If you’re doing this my way, I’d probably head back to my hotel room to decompress. A quick social media catch-up in a cloudy hotel bed (or ideally, a nap), followed by an outfit change and makeup refresh. Because you have a nice dinner to get to.

Gimlet is one of my favourite restaurants for its interiors and ambience alone. Any restaurant that nails old European charm earns a permanent spot on my list (looking at you, France-Soir).

Here, it’s not all about the looks — the food and service will impress you just as much. Whether you go à la carte or the seasonal set menu — choose the latter, because who wants to make tough decisions over delicious food on holiday? — you won’t be disappointed.

Local tip #1: I’ve never once skipped the Gimlet cocktail when dining here. It’s important that you don’t either.

Local tip #2: On Fridays and Saturdays from 10pm, Gimlet serves a supper menu with a phenomenal cheeseburger and French fries. If you love a late-night dinner, you’ll want to experience this.

Local tip #3: Gimlet has a sister venue next door, Apollo Inn, for your pre or post dinner drinks. As you can tell, this restaurant is truly the gift that keeps on giving.

I know, I know — it’s been a big day, but don’t call it a night before visiting Melbourne’s oldest photobooth next to the iconic Flinders Street Station. I’m going to assume you’ll want to immortalise the memories from this night anyway. Consider it one more souvenir to take home.

Local tip: Make sure to take coins with you because this photobooth is coin-operated only. Want to take the experience to the next level? Send your photo strips to their Instagram account dedicated to sharing them with the world.

I know I’d personally be going to bed at this point, but if you’re a night owl looking for the ultimate nightcap, end your night at Caretaker’s Cottage — one of the World’s 50 Best Bars.

Now go to bed, please. You’ve got another big day tomorrow.

saturday — northside indulgence

Rise and shine, today you’re exploring cool Melburnians’ favourite side of the Yarra River.

For breakfast, I recommend walking up the leafy Rathdowne Street until you end up at Florian — Melbourne’s best café, hands down. Get a table outside, blend in with the northsiders, and go for their much-loved herb and gruyère omelette. Another must-have, ticked off the list.

Don’t leave without stopping by their homewares store next door, Florian Home, to browse beautifully curated objects — everything from plates and knives to magazines and olive oil. Love collecting souvenirs? Pick up a box of matchsticks on your way out. Trust me, you’ll want them on your coffee table, next to your favourite candle.

From here, make your way down to Fitzroy — possibly Melbourne’s coolest suburb. Framed by buzzing streets like Smith Street, Brunswick Street, and Gertrude Street, Fitzroy delivers on every front. Filled with vintage shops, consignment stores, independent fashion brands, bookshops, and cafés, these streets will keep you busy for hours — or at least until you’re ready for lunch.

PDA Shop, SWOP, Goodbyes, American Vintage, Lost and Found, and HAVN are just a few stores worth getting lost in.

Now, back to the most exciting part of the itinerary — lunch. My choice is another local favourite, Marion Wine Bar. Located on Gertrude Street, Marion is another European-style eatery in Melbourne’s endless directory of wine bars. Again, you’ll want to dine al fresco and blend into the hustle and bustle of one of the world’s coolest streets.

Their flatbread is a non-negotiable, and the baked pipe rigate with vodka sauce is worth every penny. I highly encourage you to have a chat with the friendly sommelier to find your perfect wine pairing. Pure afternoon bliss.

After the long lunch, slowly make your way back to your hotel for another well-earned rest and recovery session.

As you’ve been eating well today, I suggest a must-visit institution for iconic small plates and elite people-watching. You’re going to none other than City Wine Shop.

City Wine Shop is one of Melbourne’s originals when it comes to European-style wine bars and still one of the best. It’s a meeting point for locals and the designated post-work drinks location for white-collar workers across the city. You might even see me strutting down Spring Street if you choose to wine and dine here.

As a true regular, my go-tos are the potato blinis with whipped fish roe and the steak tartare — with a cold, crisp, dry white wine, of course.

If the wine did its job, you’re in exactly the right state for one last stop. To end on a high note, you’re headed to Murmur Piano Bar. Grab a drink, find a seat — hopefully near the piano man — and sing along to a few happy songs.

You’ll love it, and I’m afraid you won’t make it to bed early enough for your big Sunday!

sunday — slow southside wanders

Hope you have your sneakers on, because today you’re walking. Think one of those 20,000-steps-a-day kind of touristy itinerary. Honestly, the best way to explore a city.

Make your way to Lune Croissanterie for your coffee fix and the most buttery, flaky, and yes, overpriced croissant in Melbourne. If you need further incentive to go, I once heard a French guy say it was one of the best he’s ever had.

For the full experience and to watch the pastry chefs in action, walk the extra mile and visit their bigger and better store at the west end of the city.

Next, head down to the Yarra River — the long stretch of water that runs through the heart of Melbourne, splitting the city into north and south. Follow the river, and it’ll lead you all the way to the Royal Botanic Gardens. It’s the perfect opportunity to spend some time in nature before you head to the National Gallery of Victoria for your art fix.

The NGV is Australia’s oldest and most visited gallery, rotating through everything from contemporary art and fashion to architecture and major historic exhibitions. It earns its reputation.

There’s a reason I’m making you do all of this before lunch — I want you absolutely ravenous for the next stop. It’s finally time to head to South Melbourne Market for a proper food tour.

Home to the iconic South Melbourne Market Dim Sims, made-to-order gözleme, fresh seafood, pasta, coffee, pastries, and more, this market is basically a playground for food lovers. Every corner smells like something different, every stall has a line for a reason, and honestly, the hardest part is figuring out what not to eat.

Now make your way back to the city on foot, fuelled by your excessive consumption of good food.

Even though I think you’ve earned a proper rest after this big Sunday, I can’t let you leave Melbourne without experiencing one final local ritual — a pub dinner and a cold, crisp beer at one of our local favourites.

The Lincoln is where you’re ending this perfect weekend — with a Sunday roast, a pint of Carlton Draught, and the sticky date pudding. It’s important that this is your exact order — otherwise, I’m afraid this simply won’t count as your Melbourne baptism.

more local tips

Always book restaurants ahead of time — especially for dinner.

Don’t expect to find a proper coffee after 3pm — unless you’re at an old-school Italian spot.

Use public transport — it’s faster, cheaper and convenient.

If there’s a freshly made flatbread on the menu, order it.

Rain or shine, never walk back to your hotel without an ice cream in hand.

must have bites

Napier Quarter’s Anchovy Toast

Bar Bellamy’s Devilled Eggs

Zareh’s Chicken Kebab and Hummus

Masses Bagels’ Pickled Green Tomato Tartine

Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca’s Meatball Sub

Miznon’s Intimate Wagyu Stew Pita

Moon Mart’s Bulgogi Sausage Muffin and Coconut Pandan Lamington

HuTong’s Xiao Long Bao and Wontons with Hot Chilli Sauce

Shanghai Street’s Chicken & Prawn Pan Fried Dumplings and Shanghai Noodles

Brunetti’s nostalgic Italian biscuits

Glo’s Icky Sticky ice cream

other spots not to miss

Restaurants: Julie, The Pontian Club, Capitano, Kafeneion, Carnation Canteen, Flower Drum, Tipo 00, Scopri

Cafés: Cathedral Coffee & Wine, Alimentari, Chiaki, sunhands, Juniper, Terror Twilight, Standing Room Coffee, Beautiful Jim Key

Bakeries: Baker Bleu, Bread Club, Monforte Viennoiserie, Iris the Bakery, Wild Life Bakery

Casual: Stefanino Panino, ima Asa Yoru, ca com banh mi bar, Good Days, Ondo, Soi 38, Butcher’s Diner, Morning Market

Wine bars: Bar Olo, Embla, Kirk’s, Carlton Wine Room, Bar Liberty, Neighbourhood Wine, Cam’s Kiosk, Geralds Bar, Old Palm Liquor, Don’s, La Pinta, Public Wine Shop, Bar Carnation

Pubs: Builders Arms, Royal Oak, Marquis of Lorne, North Fitzroy Arms, Mount Erica, The Orrong, Le Pub

Bars: Siglo, Gin Palace, Three Horses, Heartbreaker, Section 8, Whiteheart, Hands Down, Montys

Gelato: Messina, Pidapipo, Luther’s Scoops, Kariton Sorbetes

*You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

My perfect weekend in Venice would not be a weekend at all. Come on a Wednesday or Sunday afternoon to skip the day tripper crowds and entrance ticket chaos. That said, any days spent in Venice are good days. Here is my advice for how to spend 3 days in Venice.

day 1.

The best way to shake off a journey is a walk. Our destination is Piazza San Marco, the only piazza in Venice (did you know, everything else is called a campo?) and an excellent place to start. The golden mosaics on the Basilica dazzle, and in the early evening you can take in the vast space and listen to the orchestras. I am a big fan of doing the things in the places, but we are not going to one of the historic cafes just yet. Look for the two marble lions (made by Giovanni Bonazza in 1722) to find Ai Due Leoni. This narrow bar makes some of my favorite cichetti in town. To drink, I like their bergamot spritz and signature Egiziano cocktail.

Walk next to the water along the Riva degli Schiavoni and over four bridges to dinner at Ristorante al Covo. I can never decide, so I almost always get the tasting menu of small plates that include lagoon seafood, pasta, vegetables from Sant’Erasmo and one of Diane’s legendary desserts.

day 2.

Grab a quick cappuccino and pastry at the bar at Pasticceria Tonolo and then make your way to Ca’ Rezzonico. This museum on the grand canal is filled with Tiepolos and has the only two works by Canaletto in Venice.

Lunch is at Do Farai. My order is Carciofi alla Giudia and a plate of vitello tonnato with a glass of whichever white Guillaume recommends.

After lunch, let’s try on skirts made from remnants of silk brocade at 2091 and chunky ceramics rings at Kooch. I would attempt to decide between an impossibly tiny glass insect or vegetable from Amadi Bruno. Of course I am taking pictures from the Accademia bridge.

Watch the sunset from the Zattere with a spritz bianco at Gelateria Nico. If you need a sweet snack, get a gianduiotto, a Venetian speciality that is a rectangle of chocolate hazelnut gelato plunged into a cup of whipped cream.

Walk to dinner at Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti, a tiny elegant spot that is just creative enough that still honors their Venetian ingredients.

day 3.

Start your last day in Venice with a slow indulgent breakfast at either Caffe Florian or Gran Caffe Quadri. This is the activity, don’t rush it.

If you have time for one more museum, I love the Palazzo Fortuny.

My favorite church is undergoing a major renovation until (hopefully) the middle of May, but you can still visit the Baroque Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta ai Gesuiti on Saturday and Sunday. See Titian’s Martyrdom of San Lorenzo and the green and white marble that looks like a velvet tapestry.

Take a gondola ride. I prefer a route through quieter canals rather than the grand canal. Look for Stazi (gondola stations) next to the Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli or San Tomà.

a few tips from a local before we conclude…

You drink a spritz before (or after) not with a meal.

You must make reservations for all of your restaurant meals.

Are you coming to Venice in July or August and can not bear the heat? There is a beach only a few vaporetto stops from San Marco. You can rent chairs, umbrellas, even a beach towel!

*You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

The comment I receive most often, from Swedes and expats alike, is some variation of: “I can’t believe how quickly you’ve settled in.” It catches me off guard every time, partly because from the inside, the process hasn’t always felt effortless. But perhaps that is precisely the point.

What does it mean to expat well? For me, it means developing an intuitive feel for your new home in the shortest time possible, rooting yourself in community before loneliness has the chance to take hold, and constructing a life in which you are genuinely, not performatively, happy — cultural friction and bureaucratic misadventures included. I moved to Stockholm just about two months ago, having spent a grand total of 48 hours in the city before the move. My husband’s job brought us here. I left behind a career as a lawyer at a tech company, and arrived as a stay-at-home mom in a country whose language I could only say “hej” in. Yet here’s everything I think has helped me expat well.

A note before we begin: I spend most of my days exploring the city with my son, which gave me an unusual amount of time to find my footing. Some of what worked for me may be particular to moving across an ocean. Most of it, I suspect, is universal.

Find your passions before you arrive.

Before I left the US, I had already researched the nearest tennis club, Pilates studio, and riding school to our new apartment, and sent emails to each to set up time. Within two weeks of landing, I was in my first group tennis lesson, was riding at the barn, and had a Saturday morning “ritual” of going to pilates. Having the things that make you feel like yourself — and feeling like yourself in an unfamiliar context — is essential. Be proactive to the point of seeming overeager. I really think this was the #1 thing that I did to feel at home here so quickly.

Your first week is for administration, not tourism.

Resist the temptation to treat your first days as a holiday. You live here now, and the gap between “this is exciting” and “I am completely overwhelmed” closes faster than you’d expect. Spend the week on the essentials: Find your favorite coffee shop nearby. Get your library card — my first stop in any new city. Stock the kitchen. Join a gym. The existential discomfort of a move is really just the feeling of being unsettled, and the fastest way through it is to power through the to-do list until your daily life has some structure and rhythm.

Find your people, and tell everyone you’re moving.

Tell your dentist. Tell the colleague you ran into on the street. Tell your neighbor across the hallway. I knew no one in Stockholm before we arrived, and was genuinely surprised by how many friends-of-friends materialized once I put the word out. More importantly, I followed through — I said yes to every coffee, every lunch, every slightly awkward blind friend date. One recent Saturday, I found myself at brunch with eight other American women, thinking: I cannot believe I found this so quickly. Adult friendships are difficult. Adult friendships in a foreign country are another category entirely. The only way through is to be, for a deliberate period of time, the most extroverted version of yourself.

Pursue both expat and local friendships. Swedes are famously selective with who they let into their inner circle — this is cultural, not personal — so other expats tend to be the easier starting place. But integrating into a place means actually knowing the people who are from there. The most natural way to make local friends is through shared interests: the tennis club, the Pilates class, the riding school. A single point of commonality makes everything easier.

Find your places.

If the first week is for administration, the second week is for walking. That bakery all the way across town? Perfect. This is especially easy in Stockholm, which is small enough that almost everything is accessible on foot. The goal isn't necessarily to find your third places (though that will happen naturally), but to develop a genuine feel for your new home as a whole — so that when someone mentions they live across town, you can place yourself in their neighborhood, and maybe even recommend the bookshop you stumbled across on your way there.

I also recommend seeking out places that feel like home. For me, that meant Village Bagels in Vasastan. The novelty of a new place is exciting, but finding places that also feel familiar will help give you some sense of normalcy during your first few weeks, and especially on the tougher days.

Create your rituals.

Establish some form of routine as quickly as you can. For me, that means Friday family apéro hour and Saturday morning Pilates — I have a Spanish specialty shop around the corner where I pick up our selection each week, and I'm starting to recognize the same faces at my studio every Saturday morning. Keep the rituals from your pre-expat life, or build entirely new ones. Either way, make them consistent, and find the local places that support them.

Learn the language — even imperfectly.

Nearly everyone in Sweden speaks excellent English. I cannot overstate how irrelevant this is. Ordering coffee in English will always make you feel like a visitor. Ordering in Swedish — potentially incorrectly, with a pronunciation that makes the barista wince — makes you feel like you’re trying. And trying, in a country that is not your own, is the closest thing there is to belonging. My Swedish remains, charitably, a work in progress. But at least I’m getting my kanelbulle like everyone else in line.

Anticipate the hard days.

It took more than a month for our belongings to arrive, during which time I rotated between two sweaters. I made six separate trips to the tax office with an infant in tow trying to sort out our paperwork. We had to leave the country on a spontaneous trip to Rome so that immigration could correct my son’s visa. On the difficult days, I buy myself a pastry and remind myself that there are only a finite number of these days ahead of me, and I’ve just crossed one off the list.

A note on shipping your belongings.

Do not use the postal service. Whatever you are imagining, the reality is worse. Our boxes arrived with clothing literally falling through their sides, as though they had been processed by a car compactor. They took more than a month, despite four-day expedited shipping, and were held in customs for weeks while I produced an endless stream of paperwork to avoid import duties. Pay for a freight forwarder. Use UPS. Pack your things in hard-sided luggage if you can. Consider this your one logistical non-negotiable regardless of the cost—the headache just isn’t worth it.

Stay connected with home.

On my first week in Stockholm, I went to the post office and bought stamps. I write letters. I FaceTime my parents more than any reasonable adult probably should. I printed photographs and hung them around the apartment in the first days. Most importantly: always have a trip home on the calendar, and always have a trip planned for people to visit you. The distance is manageable when it has a shape.

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They say “when in rome, do as the romans do.” Unfortunately, we don’t have a local’s guide to rome yet, so that’s not entirely possible. This week, though, I took a spontaneous trip to Rome with the sole purpose of (dare I say it?) roaming.

Like many other Substackers, I have a google map filled with thousands of pins of places I want to try. However, places rarely convert from a “pin” to a “heart” on my map. If a place is great, but not somewhere I’ll be dreaming about for forever, it simply gets deleted so I can try all the other pins on my map. Life is too short. So here is everywhere that I went that earned a coveted “heart” in Rome. These are in no particular order, but I did save my very favorite bite for last…

1. Hotel Locarno

   I rarely see this place show up on hotel lists in Rome, and I’d prefer to keep it a hidden gem. Set in my favorite neighborhood in Rome, it feels like you’ve stepped back in time to the place where artists and bohemians spent their nights in Rome. I spent my mini-moon here, so it will always hold a special place in my heart. If you aren’t staying there, you should still go up to the roof for my favorite apertivo spot in the eternal city.

2. Palazzo Talìa

   I found this at the recommendation of and adored it! I popped in for a spritz at their bar, and immediately fell in love with the interior design. The staff were exceptionally warm, and really made me feel at home from the second I walked inside.

3. Ciampini Roma

   I personally can’t speak to the food here, which seems to get mixed reviews, but the gelato was INCREDIBLE—I was eating gelato 2x per day all week, and this was by far the best. I ordered the peanut butter and frutti di bosco (strange combo, I know), and loved it so much. I didn’t realize this was such a scene—I actually went to their lab first by mistake, where you can take a class to make gelato from start to finish. The owner kindly walked me over to the main restaurant, and the gelato blew me away.

4. Schostal Originals

   This place needs no introduction. I love sleep, and I love sleepwear almost as much. The owner is so talented, and immediately picked out a few sets in my perfect size and patterns that I wouldn’t necessarily have grabbed, but looked great when I put them on. They take such pride and care in their craft, I understand why it has become so popular.

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when to go…

Late May through October is Chicago at its purest and prettiest with warm lake breezes, sun-soaked patios, and that electricity in the air that makes you understand why people fall hard for this city (and don’t leave after winter hits). September might be the sweet spot where it’s not too humid and the summer rush starts to die down a bit.

If you’re escaping a bleak winter elsewhere, don’t overlook March and April. They’re unpredictable, yes, but you can catch some of the first warm days when the whole city collectively thaws and heads outside to celebrate the good weather. It’s a very Chicago kind of joy.

I’d avoid visiting in the deep winter unless you’re coming specifically for holiday magic. The Christmas lights are stunning, but the cold is no joke. Wind off the lake humbles me every year.

One thing before you pack: Chicago weather changes its mind constantly. Dress like you’re preparing for three seasons at once and prepare to walk because you’ll be doing a lot of it.

where to stay…

• Chicago Athletic Association - The Loop

• The Ambassador Hotel - Gold Coast

• The Claridge - Gold Coast

• The Hoxton - West Loop

• The Robey - Wicker Park

• Sable at Navy Pier - Streeterville

friday.

Ease into your weekend with neighborhoods that know how to have a good time – Gold Coast and River North.

Start with dinner at Le Colonial, a transportive experience filled with French-Vietnamese staples and fun cocktails. If you want something richer and more classic, book Bavette’s Steakhouse for the best steaks, shrimp cocktail, and an old fashioned.

After dinner, you can wander toward the “Top of the Triangle” for an after dinner drink at Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House, or LuxBar. All are buzzy, crowded, and great for people watching.

You can always end your night with a martini at RL Bar and order a late night burger (the best in the city!).

saturday.

Start your day in Old Town at Doma Cafe and for their Cevappi and buttermilk pancakes on their back patio.

From there, begin the city’s best walk. Meander east through Old Town on Wells Street into the Gold Coast’s tree-lined streets until the neighborhood opens into Lincoln Park. Keep walking north and you’ll naturally flow right into the park itself. On Saturdays beginning in April, you can walk through the Green City Farmers Market to stop for your second coffee of the day and a local pastry.

Continue your walk east until the park meets the lake. From here, pick up the lakefront trail, a breezy path that hugs Lake Michigan and winds north and south past beaches and sailboats. I would head south and follow it until you reach Grant Park, the city’s front lawn. This is the perfect place to take a breath, and then call a cab to the West Loop and the Fulton Market district.

Once you arrive in the West Loop, you can really pick your pleasure. This neighborhood is full of shopping and restaurants so you could have a late lunch or dinner here. Some of my favorites are:

• Publican Quality Bread - More pastries + coffee

• Tempesta Market - The best sandwiches in the city

• Bisou - Fun for a pre-dinner cocktail

• Monteverde - I am passionate about this place. Get the Burrata e Ham and the Gnochetti con Pesto.

• Elske - Refined, thoughtful Scandinavian-inspired dishes

• Maxwell’s Trading - A buzzy new-age american restaurant

• Au Cheval - The burger everyone has to try once

• The Publican - A standout with locally and seasonally sourced ingredients from around the Midwest. Nothing on the menu here is bad.

sunday.

Sunday morning spent in Wicker Park and Bucktown is a good way to ease into your last day.

Start at the Wicker Park Farmers Market (Sundays) for more local vendors and artists. Then head to Middle Brow Bungalow for sourdough-everything: pizzas, bagels, pastries. Plus they brew their own beers, wines, and coffee.

If you’re feeling ambitious, you can pre-order the famous breakfast sandwich from Kasama, or go big and attempt a lunch reservation for the most unforgettable Filipino tasting menu. For something classic, I would try Le Bouchon, a tiny French bistro that feels straight out of Paris.

In the afternoon, head east for shopping and strolling in Lincoln Park down Armitage street. I love popping into The Kismet Table and Found by Steph.

For lunch I love:

• Athenian Room - Get the Greek salad + chicken Kalamata

• John’s Food and Wine - Great sharing plates

• Denucci’s - A modern Italian spot and the best negroni in the city

• Galit - Delicious mediterranean and another sharing plates option

Another area not too far from here is Southport Corridor which is adorable for walking, shopping, and hopping over to Wrigleyville bars if that’s your speed.

anytime things to do…

If you’re looking for things to do beyond eating and strolling, Chicago always has something happening. I highly recommend booking a ticket to a show at The Salt Shed, the best outdoor venue. In the summer, you’ll stumble onto street festivals, neighborhood block parties, and food events nearly every weekend so check the schedule. You can spend an afternoon wandering through the Lincoln Park Zoo, one of the only free zoos in the country, or take the iconic Chicago Architecture River Cruise to see the skyline from the water (it’s touristy for a reason but one of the best ways to understand the city).

honorable mentions…

• Loba - My favorite pastries and coffee in the city. Try to go on Sunday for their Mole Croissant.

• Lula Cafe - Logan Square brunch royalty

• MingHin Cuisine - The best group dim sum

• Giant - Inventive and delicious dinner

• All Together Now - Strong coffee and fun brunch plates

• Little Goat Diner - Modern southern brunch

• POSH - Like walking into a dream. A great place to shop for a gift or just browse.

• Space519 - A lunchroom and shop tucked away in Streeterville

• Slant of Light Books - The sweetest bookshop in Old Town owned by a woman named Jess and her Golden Retriever, Geordi

• La Fournette - An authentic french bakery located right next to Slant of Light Books in Old Town

• Green Florist - A mainstay family-run shop with the most beautiful arrangements, I pop in here sometimes just to smell the blooms

  *You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

Ashley is the founder of the hotel crush, a curated collection of hotels, destinations, and personalized guides for the traveler who wants to get lost to discover themselves. She’s also a social media + brand strategist, partnering with boutique and luxury hotels and agencies to help them tell their stories and connect with the right audience.

A Floridian turned New Yorker, Ashley traded the city’s hustle for laid-back life in Barcelona (though a move to Ireland is quickly approaching!).

background.

There’s something in the Barcelona air that hits you differently and connects with your inner being. Maybe it’s the salt on the breeze from the nearby sea, the ornate architecture that leaves you awestruck, or the Catalan people’s strong cultural pride—all blended with the diverse energy of travelers and people from around the world who now call Barcelona home.

The city offers no shortage of sights to see, tapas to eat, and places to inspire. It allows you to choose your own pace or settle into the laid-back lifestyle. Here, where the city meets both the mountains and the sea, you can discover a little bit of everything—making it the perfect destination for all types of travelers.

when to go.

The beautiful thing about Barcelona is that no matter when you visit, you’re bound to have fantastic weather. My only recommendation is to not come in August. It’s hot and you’ll be surrounded almost entirely by tourists. Most locals have the month off, so they head out to their country or beach homes or anywhere else besides the city. A lot of local and smaller businesses close for the entire month and you’ll be hit with paper signs in the window that say “cerrado por vacaciones” aka I value a bit of rest and reset over the summer, so not here, sorry not sorry.

where to stay.

Boutique + design.

• Sir Victor (Eixample Dreta): Cool atmosphere in the heart of the city with a creative spirit, buzzing rooftop, and well-loved restaurant, Mr. Porter.

• Hotel Brummell (El Poble-Sec): Intimate setting for those that appreciate the comforts of home and a more local-inspired stay.

• Casa Bonay (Eixample Dreta): A place that feels like home from its cozy living room-inspired lobby to the fun ongoing programming.

• Casa Sagnier (Eixample Dreta): Housed in a former family home dating back to 1892, this hotel embraces its architectural heritage with modern touches.

• Hotel Borneta (El Born): A newly rebranded and renovated hotel in the heart of the city’s action that feels youthful and modern.

• The Hoxton (Poblenou): A bit out of the city center, yet positioned in a cool and up-and-coming neighborhood filled with boutique shops, cafés, and wine bars.

• Casa Llimona (Eixample): Housed in a restored 1890s palace with beautiful interiors and spacious rooms (some with beautiful bathtubs and terraces). Don’t expect any on-site amenities or dining, but you’re in the heart of the city. Nothing is ever too far away.

Elevated + luxury.

• Cotton House (Eixample Dreta): Claiming to be “exactly like nothing else,” this hotel offers a luxurious experience that will delight design and history lovers.

• Mercer Hotel (El Gòtic): Beautifully blending rich medieval architecture with modern elegance, this hotel truly captures the spirit of the Gothic Quarter.

• The Barcelona EDITION (El Born): A chic urban retreat with luxurious rooms, edgy design, cool clientele, and some of our favorite bar experiences.

friday.

Fuel up on coffee and a quick pastry near your hotel. Here are a few favorites across the barrios depending on where you’re staying:

• El Born: Funky Bakers

• Eixample Dreta: La Papa

• Gràcia: botànic

• Raval: Kiosco

• Sagrada Família: Merle

• Sant Antoni: Origo

• Sarrià: Oz Bakery

• Poblenou: T.44

You can’t come to Barcelona and not visit the Sagrada Família. Yes, it’s the number one tourist attraction, but it’s marvelous. To really understand the city, you need to understand the inner workings of one of our most notable creatives and influences—Antoni Gaudí. Book tickets in advance, because they will sell out. Since you’re in the area, go for a walk past Sant Pau Recinte Modernista, the most beautiful hospital you’ll ever set eyes on. If you have time, go in for a full tour.

You’ve been up on your feet for a while now, so let’s head to lunch to refuel. Want a veggie-forward lunch on the terrace? My favorite is Les Filles Café. Prefer something more authentically Spanish? Los Tortillez is a fun one.

Head for a 15-minute walk up to the neighborhood of Gràcia and explore Casa Vicens, one of Gaudí’s most colorful works. It’s beautiful to look at from the outside but I’d recommend grabbing a ticket and wandering through the house. Wander through Gràcia’s small streets to experience the energy of the small squares and boutique cafés and shops. Some favorites: Interior de Té (cute little teahouse), Morreig (beautiful pastries), Sense (Barcelona’s only n.a. bottle shop) or just walk down my favorite street—Carrer de Verdi.

If you’re still up for some sightseeing, head down to Palau de la Música Catalana, our city’s most beautiful concert hall for the classics.

One of my happy places in Barcelona is a cozy candlelit corner of the restaurant La Balabusta. Fantastic wine selection (or kombucha!), Middle Eastern Israeli sharing plates that feel straightforward but pack a punch of flavor, and an open kitchen filled with women chefs that have some serious skills. I love this spot because the flavors are so unique and there’s something for everyone–especially veggies!

Big Mamma Group recently opened their first restaurant in Barcelona called Gloria Osteria and they have an intimate bar with gorgeous interiors in the front area. It makes for a great final stop of the night (I love them because they made me a non-alcoholic espresso martini). You’ll also find Sips nearby, one of the top bars in the world, just expect a line.

saturday.

Settle in for a slow morning and good food. Some of my favorite breakfast spots by neighborhood include:

• El Born: Lulu & Flynn

• Eixample Dreta: Gringa All Day

• Gràcia: botànic

• Raval: Caravelle

• Sagrada Família: Gaia’s Garden

• Sant Antoni: Federal Café

• Sarrià: Raw Studio

• Poblenou: Little Fern

A favorite weekend activity of mine is going to Mercat dels Encants, an overwhelming flea market where you can find just about anything. Bring cash, although some accept cards, and prepare to haggle. Continue the antique and vintage shopping at some other favorites: House of Rowdy, The Favorite Vintage, Zoetrope Vintage, Moirai Market, or the good ol’ Humana, which feels like Spain’s version of America’s Goodwill. There are also a ton of cool independent local brands to shop at: Bobo Choses, Lagaam, Tiny Big Sister, ROURI, Alohas, and Flabelus.

Just a 15-minute walk from Encants, you can take your pick for lunch: tacos at Metl or head to the cozy CASA TAOS cafe for a bikini (a Spanish grilled cheese).

Let’s go see! some! sights! While you can plan your trip around these and do a proper tour, I personally love the walk by and admire method. Start on Passeig de Gràcia at Casa Milà (La Pedrera), then head down to Casa Batlló. Wander even further over to Arc de Triomf and explore the beautiful Parc de la Ciutadella. Need a little pick-me-up? Pop over to NUDES in El Born for the Erewhon smoothie of Barcelona.

There are some Barcelona restaurants that are iconic and for a reason. Cal Pep is one of those. Grab a seat at the bar if there is room (the back room takes reservations but the bar is first-come, so there may be a queue–but it’s worth it!). There’s no menu, just tell the staff what you like or don’t like and they’ll keep sending out dishes until you tell them to stop.

If you still have room in your stomach and energy in your step, pop next door to CAJÚ for vegan gelato. The Argentine owner Pablo is so welcoming and he always dreams up amazing, unique flavors. Also, they’re open until 12am so you have all night to get your fix.

End the night with a drink at one of my two favorites in El Born: Marlowe Bar or Aldea Cocktail Bar. The neighborhood can get a bit rowdy, so if that isn’t your vibe, these two spots feel a bit more elevated. Both of their menus are intentional and innovative and feature great non-alcoholic options.

sunday.

We take Sundays seriously here and by that I mean most things are closed and you’re forced to just kick back and relax. If you happen to be there on the first Sunday of the month, there are a ton of museums that offer free entry!

I’d start by stopping into Manso’s Café, right outside the Poble Sec metro station, for one of their beautiful Swedish cinnamon rolls. If you’re looking for something vegan, the nearby Asante Café was voted the best vegan restaurant in the world in 2025, or Lof Bakery has some great vegan and gluten-free options for takeaway.

Then, you’re going to go for a stroll, pastry and tea in hand, up to Montjuïc. This area has a ton of amazing museums and gardens that have free entry on that first Sunday or have a small ticket price. If you want a proper art and culture morning, head to MNAC, the city’s Museum of Catalan Art. Be sure to wander behind the museum and discover the hidden Jardí Botànic Històric. If you prefer light culture versus full-on, go for a wander around the Castell de Montjuïc, the Teatre Grec, and some of the nearing gardens.

Now, if you want to continue a bit more on the touristy route (but still worthy!!), book in advance a paella lunch at Terrassa Martínez. You could also take the funicular down to the beach for a stroll and seaside paella at Restaurante Julieta’s or Gallito. If you prefer a more low-key scene, head to one of the many Honest Greens locations. The food is all freshly prepared in advance so it feels like fast-casual dining without sacrificing quality.

If you happen to be staying at Casa Bonay, head back to your homebase for a reservation on the rooftop at Termas Bonay for a 50-minute wellness circuit. They have three distinct circuits you can follow or you can wander through in your own way across the sauna, hammam, ice bath, and Japanese ofuro.

You definitely deserve a sweet treat after that, so pop next door to LOT ROASTERS for some of the best chocolate of your life. Grab a cacao chai or if you’re feeling adventurous and healthy, the pulpa de cacao is so good (and equally good for you).

Head for a sunset drink at The Barcelona EDITION’s rooftop for beautiful views of the city. It’s located right next to Mercat de Santa Caterina, El Born’s neighborhood market, and it has a beautiful colorful roof. After that, grab dinner (book a reservation in advance!) at a local favorite Bar Brutal. If you’re a natural wine fan, get ready to be overwhelmed in the best way at their extensive selection (over 2,000 bottles!). The menu changes often and the vibe is no-frills.

Stop into Hotel Borneta for a nightcap or just take advantage of their vintage photobooth from Autofoto.

Best spots for souvenirs…

• Cereria Subirà. Barcelona’s oldest shop, from 1761, where you’ll find a colorful selection of candles and can even join for a private workshop.

• 248 Colmado. Meaning “full over,” Colmado is a haven for treasures and local goods–and they even have clothing stores.

• Maison Momo. A cozy little handmade jewelry shop that specializes in vintage finds and rare charms – book an appointment for their charm bar!

• Carolina Blue. A beautiful store filled with curated clothing, soaps, jewelry, and my favorite local candle brand Lecot Studio.

• Manantial de Salud. Cute little herbalist store and my go-to spot for buying herbs and making custom tea blends. Buy a pre-packaged tea or create your own for a fun souvenir. There are a few locations but my favorite is on Carrer d’en Xuclà.

Hidden, local gems…

• Montjuïc. If you’re a nature lover and don’t want to stray too far out of the city, I’d definitely recommend heading up to Montjuïc. There are a ton of parks and green spaces that make for the perfect picnic spot or spot to read.

  • Jardins de Joan Maragall – This place feels out of a storybook and it somehow took me seven years to realize it exists. So many cozy spots to lay in the grass, on a bench, or just wander around.

  • Jardí Botànic de Barcelona – One of those places that makes you feel like you aren’t in the middle of a city. Perfect spot for a little stroll.

  • Jardí Botànic Històric – A (free!) peaceful, hidden botanical garden right behind MNAC that recently reopened. I went here on a foraging walk and found so many beautiful plants and herbs growing right here in my backyard.

  • Jardín de Mossèn Costa i Llobera – Cutest little garden filled with cactus and beautiful views. More a spot to walk through versus sit down.

  • Also a ton of other interesting things to see in Montjuïc like: the popular Salts Montjuïc bar with amazing views (and where Dua Lipa filmed her “Illusion” music video), Castell de Montjuïc, Fundació Joan Miró, the beautiful Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, the Magic Fountain, and there’s even a cable car that will take you down to the beach.

• Sant Pau Recinte Modernista. Not necessarily a hidden gem but many people travel to this neighborhood to visit Sagrada Família and don’t realize this is just a short walk away. This former hospital, opened in 1905, is one of the finest expressions of Art Nouveau, with a Catalan twist. It’s whimsical, it’s magical… and yet, it was a hospital. At the heart of the design is this interior “city-garden concept” that was created to inspire a healthier, non-institutional environment for patients. If you’re an architecture lover, definitely add it to your list!

• Casa Vicens. One of Gaudí’s least-visited houses but honestly one of the best in my opinion. It was the architect’s first major house commission. The colors, the patterned tiles, the architecture, it’s definitely worth a stop, even if just to admire it from the outside.

• Parc del Laberint d’Horta. Barcelona’s oldest park situated a bit out of the way but absolutely worth a visit. You’ll find a gorgeous labyrinth maze, a palace, gardens, and other hidden gems. Local tip: The entrance is free on Wednesdays and Sundays.

  *You can find a members-only map of every place ever mentioned in our guides here!

  *You can download Ashley’s complete guide to Barcelona here for free!