September does something funny to desert gardeners.

The calendar says fall.

The nurseries begin tempting us with plants that look like fall. If you’re lucky. Maybe some Mums and summer flowers. Later in the month petunias and snaps should be available.

And after months of heat, we are more than ready to believe them.

But your pots know better.

September is really a transition month in the desert. I call it our Fall Shoulder Season, that stretch between summer and the cooler weather our winter flowers really want. Your summer plants may be tired. Some may suddenly perk up as nights begin cooling. Others are simply finished after doing their job through months of desert heat.

And this is where I want you to resist one very understandable urge:

Don’t tear everything out and start planting winter flowers yet.

Our nighttime temperatures matter far more than the date on the calendar. Pansies, violas, lobelia, ornamental kale and many of our favorite winter flowers need consistently cooler nights before they can settle in and grow the way we want them to. A couple of cooler mornings do not mean summer has left Tucson. (The Potted Desert)

So what should you do in September?

First, take a good look at what survived summer.

Some plants deserve to stay.

If something is green, growing and beginning to look happier as temperatures ease, give it a chance.

If another plant is dead, exhausted or making the entire pot look miserable, take it out. You do not earn extra gardening points for keeping a plant long after its useful season has ended.

I have said this before and I will keep saying it:

Better dirt than dead plants.

An empty spot in a pot is temporary.

Refresh without completely replanting.

This is where Shoulder Season plants become useful.

Rather than replanting everything for winter too early, you can replace one tired summer plant with something capable of handling the remaining warmth while continuing into cooler weather.

Petunias, snapdragons, dianthus and alyssum are some possibilities as temperatures allow. The exact timing always depends on your own garden, elevation, exposure and those all-important nighttime temperatures. (The Potted Desert)

Think of September as editing your pots rather than rewriting the entire garden.

• Remove what is finished.

• Prune what needs shaping.

• Keep what still looks good.

• Fill a hole if you need to.

Then wait.

And keep watering.

This one catches people every year.

A monsoon rain does not automatically mean your pots have received enough water. Pots tucked beneath trees, rooflines and ramadas may receive almost none. Even a good soaking rain does not necessarily replace your regular container watering for long. (The Potted Desert)

Continue checking the potting mix rather than assuming September means you can suddenly back off.

Your watering schedule will change as temperatures change, but let the plants, potting mix and weather tell you when.

September is also a wonderful month to look ahead.

On one of those first mornings when you step outside and think, Oh! This feels good, sit down for a few minutes and look at your garden.

• What bothered you this summer?

• Which pots were hardest to keep happy?

• Which area always looked too crowded?

• Where would you like more color this winter?

• Is there a pot you have never really liked?

• Would moving one pot completely change an area?

You do not have to solve all of it today.

September gives you time to think before the great winter flower frenzy begins.

And that may be the most valuable thing you can do this month.

Want to learn how all of these pieces work together?

I’ll be teaching:

Desert Container Gardening: Plan for 365 Days of Living Color

September 17 | 10:00–11:30 AM | Zoom

Desert container gardening is not the same as gardening anywhere else. Our summers are longer and hotter, our winters can bring sudden cold snaps, and plants in pots need a smarter plan to thrive.

In this class, we’ll look at how to:

• Choose plants that work well together for the upcoming season

• Put your pots where they have the best chance to thrive

• Choose a color theme and carry it through your container garden

Come ready for ideas and inspiration for creating beautiful desert pots that work with our climate rather than fighting it.

$36 Non-Member | $29 Member

REGISTER FOR THE CLASS

What’s Coming for Paid Subscribers in September

This month, we’re going deeper into some of the decisions that make the transition from summer to winter easier. You get all of this when you add a paid subscription Only $30 for 12 months!

Before You Plant Anything, Do These Four Things

A September garden reset, including the watering mistake that can happen after monsoon rain, what to clear out now, what can still be planted and what I would leave alone.

Petunias Are Coming. Here’s How Not to Ruin Them.

Why petunias are one of my favorite desert Shoulder Season flowers, when I would plant them, where I would put them while September is still hot, and how I keep them from becoming that sticky, sprawling mess we all know.

Pot Size and Placement: Why Most Succulent Pots Fail

We’ll look beyond the plant itself at the little micro-climate you have created around it: pot size, material, reflected heat, afternoon exposure and one surprisingly easy way to sunburn a cactus after bringing it home.

Hi Potted Gardening Friends!

August is one of those months when many desert gardeners wonder if they should be doing anything at all.

The good news? There are a few important things that can make a big difference as we move toward fall, and I’ve already put them together for you.

In this month’s guide, you’ll find:

• What your containers need most in August
• Watering adjustments during the hottest weeks
• Which plants are still thriving—and which may be telling you they’re ready to retire
• Simple maintenance that will help prepare your pots for the fall growing season
• A few reminders that can save plants (and frustration!)

You can read the complete August guide here:

August Hot Desert Container Garden Guide

New Class Coming this month

I’m excited to offer a brand-new container gardening ZOOM class with the Tucson Botanical Gardens!

Designing a Serene, Zen-like Desert Container Garden

We’ll explore how to create peaceful, beautiful container gardens using desert plants, thoughtful design, texture, and space. If you’ve ever wanted your patio or entryway to feel like a place to breathe, I think you’ll enjoy this class.

More information and registration are here: Tucson Botanical Gardens Class

I hope the August guide helps you and your plants make it through the rest of the summer. Cooler mornings are coming!

When you need a break from your desert garden, bring the pleasure indoors.

During my career years, when I lived in a four-season climate, outdoor gardening was not on my radar.

I appreciated a pretty garden. I noticed flowers. I liked other people’s landscapes. But I was not the person planning beds, fussing over perennials, or waiting for spring with seed packets in my hand.

What I didn’t realize then was that I must have liked growing plants.

I just grew them indoors.

There were always a few plants around. Nothing grand. Nothing that would have made anyone say, “Now there’s a houseplant collector.” But I liked having something green nearby. I liked watching a new leaf appear. I liked the quiet company of plants in a room.

Then life got busier.

Work schedules changed. Homes changed. Travel changed. The desire to keep indoor plants started to fade, not because I stopped liking them, but because they became one more thing to think about.

If you have ever looked at a plant and thought, “I’m sorry, but I do not have the bandwidth for your drama,” you understand.

Eventually, we moved to Tucson.

And well, you know what happened then.

The desert changed everything.

Instead of indoor plants, I fell hard for outdoor pots. Big pots. Beautiful pots. Colorful pots. Pots that could turn patios and courtyards and front entries into living gardens. I learned what worked, what failed, what burned, what sulked, and what could bloom its heart out when given the right pot, the right soil, the right placement, and the right care.

My Tucson gardening life became very much about outdoor container gardens.

But it wasn’t only about outdoor pots.

For a while, I brought my love of tropical plants with me.

After living on Kauai for four years, it was hard not to. I loved the lushness. The big leaves. The feeling of green life filling a room. There is something wonderful about tropical plants, especially when you are living in a dry desert climate and want a little reminder that somewhere in the world, leaves are bigger than dinner plates and humidity is not something you have to create with a mister.

But then came the reality. Back in Tucson

The care.

The work.

The gnats.

And the quiet realization that some plants are lovely until they begin requiring more attention than I want to give them.

I did not give up on indoor plants entirely. I just returned to the ones that made sense for me.

Easy-care plants.

Any-size plants.

Plants that let me travel.

Plants that do not punish me for having a life.

Plants that sit quietly in a beautiful pot and offer that small daily pleasure of something green, alive, and not asking too much.

That is the indoor plant I didn’t know I needed.

Not a jungle or a new hobby. And certainly not another garden to manage.

Just a few indoor plants that fit my real life.

And in July and August, when the desert garden outside is doing its best to survive the furnace, I have to say, there is something deeply satisfying about walking through the house and seeing a plant that is perfectly content to be indoors with me.

Read more

Oops! Riley slipped in here. She didn’t have a huge chance to plant many cactus in her book, Riley’s Garden Oasis but she hopes to experiment more in the future

Let’s clear something up right away.

All cactus are succulents.

Not all succulents are cactus.

Most of us, myself included, use the words interchangeably in conversation. I do it. Then I catch myself. Then I keep going anyway. But when it comes to choosing plants for pots in the desert, that distinction actually matters.

Succulents are a huge family of water-storing plants.

Cactus are a specific subset of that family, usually thorny, often columnar or rounded, and generally far better equipped for our sun.

Here’s where people get into trouble and to learn more, upgrade to paid and stop throwing your money into the compost heap.

Read more

There are seasons when we want the garden, but not all the work that can come with it.

I have always loved full, generous pots. I like looking outside and seeing color. I like plants moving a little in the breeze. I like a container that feels as if it belongs there, not as if someone set down a few plants and hoped for the best.

But I also know this. We do not always want to be wedded to our gardens all year long.

Watering, deadheading, pruning, replacing, checking, wondering if something is getting too much sun or not enough water, it can all begin to feel like a job. And in our desert climate, with the lack of rainfall, intense sun, and summer heat, the job can get bigger than we intended.

That is why I like easy-care arrangements.

Not no-care. That is not realistic.

Easy-care.

A container that gives you color, structure, and pleasure without needing constant grooming. A pot that is planted with strong, sun-loving plants. A design that does not depend on daily deadheading or one fragile plant that sulks every afternoon.

The first thing to understand is that easy-care does not begin with the plant. It begins with the whole arrangement.

You need the right size pot. For full sun in summer, I want a large pot, preferably 24 inches or larger. Smaller pots can work in gentler exposures, but our full sun summer pots need enough soil volume to help protect the roots and hold moisture long enough to support the planting.

You also need the right material for your pots. Thick-walled, high-fired ceramic pots are my first choice. Double-walled resin, polypropylene, or fiberglass can also work well when you want something lighter. What I do not want in full sun is thin plastic. It heats too quickly, does not insulate the potting mix well, and usually makes summer harder than it needs to be.

Then you need a good potting mix. A rich, dark, consistent mix that holds water and drains well gives the roots a better place to live. The plants can only perform as well as the system underneath them allows.

After that, we can talk about plants.

For easy-care summer pots, I look for flowers that thrive in full sun, last a long season, do not need much deadheading, are not especially prone to pests or disease, and use low to moderate water. Vinca is a good example. It starts performing once the soil warms and keeps going until cold weather stops it. Some zinnias, on the other hand, may look wonderful early but struggle as the summer heat settles in.

That is the kind of difference we need to pay attention to.

A flower can be beautiful and still be a poor choice for the kind of summer pot you want.

Easy-care gardening is not about lowering your standards. It is about choosing plants and containers that can give you pleasure without asking for too much in return.

One good easy-care pot can change how your whole patio feels.

It gives you something alive to look at. It softens a hard corner. It keeps the garden from feeling abandoned. It reminds you that summer does not have to mean empty pots or constant fussing.

And sometimes, one pot is enough to begin.

If you have been telling yourself, “I can’t keep up with summer pots,” I would not start by filling the whole patio. I would start with one large container, one strong design, and plants chosen because they can handle the job.

Because empty pots do not give you anything back.

One well-planted, easy-care pot just might.

Before you choose the plants, though, there are a few rules that make the whole arrangement work. Paid Subscribers can read on and get the rules and recipes!

Read more

We’re in it now—peak desert summer. The sun’s not playing around, and neither should you.

If your containers are looking more “crispy” than “colorful,” don’t panic. A few smart tweaks can carry your plants through July’s worst.

Here’s your mid-summer survival guide:

✅ Water like a pro:

• Early morning deep soak. (Not a mist, not a sprinkle—a deep soak.)

• Frequency > Quantity: Watering more often (every 1–2 days) beats flooding once and forgetting.

• Cool the roots: Stick your finger in the soil. If it’s hot? So are the roots. Water to cool.

✅ Create instant shade:

• Use clip-on umbrellas, trees and tall shrubs, or shade cloth to block midafternoon sun.

• Even dappled light can reduce soil temps by 20°.

✅ Plant choices matter:

• Still thriving: Vinca, Purslane, sweet potato vine, Angelonia (Summer Snaps), Pentas, and Gaillardias. These can take all day sun.

• Struggling? Pull it. Make space for survivors.

✅ Bonus sanity saver:

Cluster your pots together. They’ll create their own microclimate and save you water (and your patience).

🌿 If you feel like your garden’s on life support, you’re not alone.

And you’re never alone when you become a paid subscriber and Receive these full posts coming this month:

1. Easy-Care Arrangements for Desert Pots - When you want color without being wedded to your garden

2. Succulents vs. Cactus, and Why the Difference Matters in Desert Pots

3. The Indoor Plant I Didn’t Know I Needed

   A desert gardener’s summer confession from inside the air conditioning

Subscribe now

My next two Zoom classes walk through 1) plan ahead for August relief and 2) designing a peaceful desert garden.

🌫️ It’s Too Darn Hot – The Desert’s Monsoon Season in Your Container Gardens: LINK (July 16, 10 am)

Marylee shares what you can do to perk up your pots for the next couple of months.

🧘Designing a Serene Zen Desert Container Garden: LINK August 13, 10 am

Gardens don’t always have to be colorful and busy. Sometimes they are simply places to breathe.

A plant that looked promising in April may suddenly turn crispy. A flower that gave you a few good weeks may decide it has had enough. One section of a mixed pot may still look fine while another plant has clearly crossed the line from “stressed” to “done.”

That is when a lot of gardeners hesitate.

They leave the dead plant in place because they are not sure what to do next. They feel bad pulling it out. They think maybe it will come back. Or they tell themselves they will deal with it later, which usually means they keep walking past it for another two weeks feeling guilty.

I have said this for years, and I still mean it:

‘Better dirt than dead.”

If a plant is truly gone, take it out.

You do not have to replant immediately. You do not have to solve the whole pot that minute. You do not have to turn a small loss into a big project. But you do need to remove the plant that is no longer contributing anything except discouragement.

A dead plant in a pot does more than look bad. It keeps reminding you that something failed. It makes the whole arrangement look worse than it is. It can hide what is still working. And if the plant died from disease or root trouble, leaving it there may not help the rest of the pot.

So in June, I want you to walk your patio with a little honesty.

Not criticism. Honesty.

Look at each pot and ask: Is this plant tired, or is it gone?

A tired plant may still have green stems, new growth tucked inside, or a chance to recover if you adjust the care. A dead plant is different. It is brittle, brown, collapsing, or clearly finished. It is not resting. It is not waiting for encouragement. It is done.

That plant can come out.

A Lesson from a Story

In Echo Canyon, Riley learned this the same way most gardeners do, by standing in front of a pot too long.

She was on the veranda early, before the heat climbed over the canyon wall. One of the summer pots near the steps had been bothering her for days. The vinca still looked good. The scaevola was starting to trail. But one plant in the front had crisped into a stiff little brown reminder of a decision she had been avoiding.

Ben came up the path carrying two mugs of coffee.

“You’re staring at that pot like it owes you money,” he said.

“It might,” Riley said. “I paid for that plant.”

Ben handed her a mug and looked at the pot. “Is it coming back?”

Riley crouched, touched the stem, and it snapped between her fingers.

“No.”

“Then why is it still there?”

She looked at the empty space it would leave. That was the part she disliked. The gap. The evidence.

Ben nodded toward the trowel on the bench. “Better dirt than dead.”

Riley laughed because she had heard him say it before, usually when she was trying to pretend something still had potential.

This time, she pulled the plant out.

The pot looked better immediately.

Not finished. Certainly not perfect.

Better.

That is the point.

Sometimes the first improvement is not adding something new. It is removing what is clearly done.

Once the dead plant is out, you can make a calmer decision. Maybe the remaining plants will fill in. Maybe you will tuck in one replacement. Maybe you will add a small trailing plant to cover the edge. Maybe you will leave the open space alone until fall.

All of those are valid choices.

What I do not want is for you to keep a dead plant in a pot because you think an empty spot is worse.

It usually is not.

An empty space gives you options. A dead plant gives you guilt.

What to Do After You Pull It Out

Once the plant is removed, look at the roots and the surrounding potting mix.

If the roots are dry and brittle, the plant may have failed from drying out, root stress, or simply not getting established well enough before the heat arrived.

If the roots are mushy or smell sour, you may be looking at too much water, poor drainage, or disease.

If the root ball still looks like the original nursery shape and never spread into the potting mix, the plant may not have settled in. That can happen when the root ball was too dry at planting, too tight, or not opened up enough.

You do not need to turn this into a full investigation every time, but it is worth noticing. Dead plants can teach you something if you look before tossing them.

Then smooth the potting mix back into place. If the hole is large, add a little fresh potting mix. Water the remaining plants as needed, based on the whole pot, not the empty spot.

And then stop.

You don't have to rush to the nursery that day.

Subscribe now

In June, replacing a plant is not always the best first move. Sometimes the smarter choice is to let the rest of the pot settle and see whether the nearby plants fill the space.

If you do replace it, choose carefully. Do not tuck a delicate, high-maintenance plant into a hot pot just because there is an opening. Choose something that matches the sun, water, and size of the plants already there.

A replacement plant should make the pot easier to enjoy, not harder to manage.

A Simple June Pot Check

This week, choose one pot and do this quick check.

First, remove anything truly dead. Not tired. Not resting. Dead.

Second, look for plants that are still alive but struggling. Check whether they are dry, too wet, crowded, shaded, or simply in too much sun.

Third, look at the open spaces. Can the existing plants grow into them? Would a trailing plant help cover the edge? Would the pot look fine if you left that spot empty for now?

Fourth, decide whether this pot deserves more investment right now. Some pots do. Some are better left to make it through summer with what they already have.

This is one of the simplest ways to reduce June garden frustration.

🥀 Pull out what is gone.

🌺 Keep what is working.

🆘 Do not make every empty space an emergency.

Better dirt than dead.

Happy potting,

Marylee 😎

This little Echo Canyon moment comes from the same world as my creative nonfiction book, Riley’s Garden Oasis and first novel, Whispers of Echo Canyon, where gardens, friendship, and second chapters all seem to grow together. If you enjoy seeing desert gardening woven into story, you may enjoy meeting the women of Echo Canyon.

All of my books are available on Amazon.

I bet you didn’t expect to see a pot with a dead plant in my post. Yup, it’s mine.

Last summer, I woke up one morning worrying about my pots.

That would not sound strange if I were new to desert container gardening. But I’m not new. I’ve been planting, maintaining, troubleshooting, teaching, and writing about potted gardens in the desert for decades. I built a business around this. I have seen plants fry, drown, sulk, recover, and surprise me. I have seen beautiful plants fail because they were put in the wrong place, the wrong pot, or the wrong soil.

And still, there I was, lying in bed, thinking about my pots.

Did that one get enough water yesterday? Was the sun hitting that corner harder than it used to? Should I check before breakfast? What if we leave town? What if one of them went downhill while I wasn’t paying attention?

That was the moment I stopped myself.

Why am I still worrying about this?

Not because I didn’t know what to do. Not because I lacked experience. Not because the plants were impossible. I was worrying because the containers were asking too much of me.

They needed too many judgment calls. Too much checking. Too much daily attention. Too much emotional monitoring for a season when I do not always want to be outside fussing with plants. Especially in July. Especially in August. Especially when the patio starts to feel less like a garden and more like a small outdoor emergency room.

That morning changed how I thought about my summer pots.

I realized the real question was not, “How do I keep every plant happy all summer?”

The better question was, “What would it take for these pots to stop needing so much babysitting?”

That is a very different question. It shifts the blame away from you and away from the plant. It points us back to the system.

Because here is what I believe more strongly than ever. If your container garden collapses the moment you miss a day, it is not a you problem. It is a design problem.

A pot that is too small for full sun is going to need more attention. A thin plastic pot sitting in desert heat is going to heat up fast. A poor potting mix may dry too quickly or stay wet too long. A bare soil surface will lose moisture faster than one shaded by plants. A high-maintenance plant will not suddenly become easy because you want a lower-worry summer.

The plant may be showing the problem. But often, the system created the problem.

And this matters because desert summer already asks enough of us. The days are hot. The nights stay warm. The sun gets stronger and hangs around longer than we would like. We may be traveling, working, playing golf, helping family, or simply wanting to enjoy our mornings without starting the day in plant triage.

Your garden should not make you feel guilty before you’ve had coffee.

Become a Paid subscriber to continue reading the Summer Pot Worry Audit.

Read more

Some plants whisper in their calming soft hues of pink and blue.

Some shout out loud, seeking attention for their primary colors.

That’s what Canna does.

Canna walks into a summer pot like it owns the place. Big leaves. Strong stems. Tropical-looking flowers in colors that seem almost too lush for the desert. Orange, red, yellow, bronze foliage, burgundy leaves, variegated leaves. It brings height, drama, and that wonderful feeling that your patio has suddenly become more than a collection of pots.

It becomes a garden.

I have gone through different plant favorites over the years, especially when I wanted a tall backbone plant for jumbo summer pots. There were years of Butterfly Iris, Mexican Bird of Paradise, Mexican Lime Trees, and other larger plants that gave a container height and structure.

But Canna has always had a special kind of presence.

I don’t remember the first time I saw one in a nursery, but I can imagine exactly what happened. I probably turned a corner, saw those huge flowers and bold leaves, and thought, Now what are you doing here?

Because Canna has that effect.

It looks tropical. It looks dramatic. It looks as if it belongs somewhere with more humidity and less dust. And yet, when planted well in a large enough desert pot, Canna can be a spectacular summer centerpiece.

Before you plant one, though, there are a few things to know. Canna is not difficult, but it is not a small-pot plant either. A favorite variety is the Tropicana Canna, pictured below

Read more

June is when our desert pots start telling the truth.

(Be sure to scroll all the way down to get your June Checklist)

In April and May, everything can still look hopeful. The nursery plants are fresh, the mornings are pleasant enough, and we can convince ourselves that summer is going to behave.

Then June arrives.

The temperatures climb. The sun gets sharper. The pots dry faster. Plants that looked perfectly happy a few weeks ago may suddenly begin wilting, fading, crisping, or simply looking as if they are asking, “Are you sure this is where I’m supposed to live?”

This is not the time to panic.

It is time to pay attention.

June container gardening is about helping your pots get through the first real wave of desert heat without creating more work than necessary. You do not need to redo everything. You do not need to rush out and replace every tired plant. You do not need to turn your patio into a second job.

But you do need to look closely.

Here are the things I want you to watch in your June pots.

Notice the Difference Between Heat Wilt and Thirst

A plant that wilts in the afternoon may not always need more water.

Sometimes it is simply reacting to heat.

This is especially true for plants with broad, flat leaves, such as sweet potato vine. The leaves may droop during the hottest part of the day, even when the potting mix is still damp.

Before you rush out with the hose, check the soil. If it is still moist, the plant may be experiencing heat wilt rather than true dryness.

That matters because watering a plant that does not need water can create a different problem.

If the leaves perk up by morning, you are probably looking at heat stress, not drought stress. If the plant is still wilted early in the morning before the day heats up, then you need to investigate further.

That may mean the pot dried out too much. It may mean the plant is root-bound. It may mean the potting mix is not working well. It may mean the plant is in a location that it can’t manage.

June is when you learn the difference.

Check for Root-Bound Pots, But Don’t Do Major Surgery Now

If a plant has been in the same pot for several years and begins wilting even when you are watering properly, it may be root-bound.

This is not the best time to pull the whole pot apart and do a major repotting. That kind of work adds stress at a time when the plant is already dealing with heat.

Instead, do what you can gently.

Dig around the outside edge of the root ball and remove loose, tired potting mix or old roots that come away easily. Add fresh potting mix around the edges and keep the pot watered carefully until fall, when it is safer to repot if needed.

The goal in June is not to rebuild everything.

The goal is to help the pot make it through summer.

Give Summer Pots Some Shade Relief

Even sun-loving plants appreciate a little relief in desert summer.

If you have movable pots, look for places that receive morning sun and some afternoon protection. A lightly leafed mesquite tree, a patio edge, an entry area, or the east side of a larger pot can all give plants a better chance.

This is especially useful for favorite pots you want to enjoy up close.

Moving a container closer to your living area can help in two ways. The plant may get a kinder exposure, and you are more likely to notice what is happening because you see it every day.

Sometimes the best June fix is not more work.

It is a better location.

Do Not Leave Dead Plants Staring at You

If you lose a plant to the heat, do not leave it sitting there, making you feel bad every time you walk past.

Dead plants keep telling you there is another job waiting.

I have said this for years:

Better dirt than dead.

If a plant is gone, remove it. Leave the space open for now if you need to. You can replant later or let the pot rest until fall.

Nothing is inspiring about a dead plant in a summer pot.

Remove it, clean up the area, and give yourself one less thing to feel guilty about.

Blast Your Plants

Blasting plants is one of my favorite habits, and I know it makes some people nervous at first.

Use the jet setting on your hose and spray across the foliage from a few feet away. You are not trying to blast the soil out of the pot. You are spraying the plant itself.

This helps clean the leaves, discourage pests, and knock off some disease spores before they settle in and become a bigger problem.

Do this in the morning when possible, and always make sure the water coming out of the hose is not hot. In June, hose water can heat up quickly, and you do not want to spray hot water on your plants.

Also, do not worry about a little water on the leaves burning them. In our dry air, it does not sit there long enough to create that problem.

Keep Feeding, But Be Sensible

For most flowering summer pots, continue using a water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks.

The exceptions are cactus and succulents, which have different needs.

Summer annuals in pots depend on you for food because they cannot send their roots out into the ground searching for nutrients. If you want them to keep growing and blooming, they need regular support.

That said, do not try to force a stressed plant into performance.

If a plant is truly struggling, solve the stress first. Check the water, the exposure, the roots, and the pot itself. Fertilizer is not magic. It supports a healthy system. It does not fix every problem.

Watch Newly Planted Pots Closely

You can still plant summer pots in June, but you need to be thoughtful about it.

Plant early in the morning. Choose healthy plants with good roots. Make sure the root ball is moist before you plant. Water the potting mix thoroughly when you finish, except for cacti, which follow different rules.

Then pay close attention for the first couple of weeks.

New plants need time to settle into their new pot. Do not let them dry out while they are getting established. Once you see new growth, you know they are beginning to settle in, and you can adjust your care from there.

June planting is possible.

It just asks for more attention at the beginning.

Remember That Cactus and Succulents Play by Different Rules

Cacti and succulents should not be treated like summer annuals.

They need water, yes, but they do not want the same frequent watering routine as flowering pots. Let the soil dry before watering again.

A moisture meter can help if you are not sure. It is one of the simplest tools you can own, and it can keep you from guessing, especially with plants that do not like wet feet.

Succulent and cactus pots can be wonderful in summer, especially if you travel or want beauty without so much daily attention.

Just do not water them like petunias.

June Is the Month to Pay Attention, Not Panic

Your June pots may need small adjustments.

A little shade.
A dead plant removed.
A check for root-bound stress.
A better watering rhythm.
A blast from the hose.
A reminder that afternoon wilt is not always thirst.

You do not have to solve the whole summer in one morning.

But you do want to notice what your pots are telling you now, before July and August make every problem louder.

Desert container gardening is not about fighting the heat.

It is about setting up pots that can work inside it.

And June is where that work begins.

Want the practical how-to behind this June series?

This week’s free posts give you the big ideas for helping your desert pots get through summer.

Paid subscribers also get the practical details I usually save for classes. Save money on plant loss by learning all of Marylee’s tricks and tips.

Subscribe now

For paid subscribers this month:

A Summer Pot Worry Audit
A simple way to look at one troubling pot and figure out whether the real issue is pot size, material, potting mix, plant choice, or expectations.

What Is This Pot Asking of Me?
A July-style troubleshooting guide for the container that keeps needing attention, so you can stop guessing and start seeing what the pot is telling you.

How to Read an August Pot
A guide to knowing the difference between a tired summer pot and a failing one, including when to wait, groom, replace, move, or let the pot rest.

Canna in Desert Pots
Practical notes for using Canna successfully, including pot size, companion plants, planting tips, and what to watch for in wind and heat.

Easy-Care Desert Pot Recipes
Specific plant combinations, pot recommendations, and design notes for creating summer containers that bring color without constant fussing.

A paid subscription costs $30 per year, and one avoided plant replacement can nearly cover it.

More importantly, it can save you from spending the summer wondering what went wrong.

Subscribe now

🌱 Upcoming Online Class: Just Add Water

If watering your desert pots is what still worries you most, my next class is for you.

Just Add Water
Thursday, June 4, 10-11:30 AZ
Hosted by Tucson Botanical Gardens

We will talk about how to keep your container gardens watered in our desert climate, including hand-watering, irrigation basics, and thinking through what your pots actually need.

Register here: Just Add Water

Happy potting,

Marylee

If there is one question I hear more than almost any other, it is this:

“How do I keep my plants alive in desert pots?”

Most of the time, the answer comes back to water.

Not just how much water.

Not just how often.

But how water moves through the pot, how long the potting mix holds it, how the roots receive it, and whether the plant is getting what it needs before the heat starts making everything harder.

Plant failure is common in desert containers, and improper watering is often the reason. The Tucson Botanical Gardens describes this class plainly: plant failure is a common issue, and my quote, “95% of it is attributed to improper watering.” That may sound dramatic, but after decades of working with desert pots, I understand why they say it.

Watering desert pots is not the same as watering plants in the ground.

A pot is its own little world. The roots cannot go searching for moisture somewhere else. They cannot move deeper into the ground. They depend on the container, the potting mix, the drainage, the exposure, and the person watering them.

That means watering is not only a chore.

It is a system.

In this class, I’ll walk you through the watering methods I’ve used and taught for years, from hand watering to irrigation basics, so you can understand what your pots are actually asking for and stop guessing every time a plant wilts.

We’ll talk about how to water deeply enough, how to avoid shallow watering, how to think through frequency and duration, and why some pots seem to dry out too quickly while others stay wet too long.

We’ll also talk about the practical side of desert container gardening. What do you do if you travel? How do you set up your pots so someone else can water them without confusion? When does drip irrigation help? When do you still need to check the pot? How do you know whether a plant is thirsty or stressed for another reason?

My goal is simple.

I want you to leave with a clearer way to water your desert pots, so your plants have a better chance of making it through the year and you have less worry every time the temperature climbs.

The class is online through Tucson Botanical Gardens on Thursday, June 4, from 10:00 to 11:30 a.m. Participants receive the Zoom link two hours before class begins. The class fee is $36 for non-members and $29 for members.

All classes are recorded and emailed to you so you don’t have to attend live.

You can register here: Just Add Water: A Complete Guide to Watering Desert Pots

I hope you’ll join me.

Happy potting,
Marylee

Now that we have almost reached June, the desert sun is unrelenting, and if your potted plants could talk, they’d probably be begging for relief.

But don’t worry—you can keep your containers thriving all summer with a few smart strategies.

The key? Watering wisely and using shade strategically. These two simple adjustments can reduce plant stress, conser…

Read more

It’s about approaching them in a way that feels realistic, sustainable, and calmer.

If last summer felt exhausting, this class may help you approach the next one differently.

Details and registration:

Register Here to Worry Less

The desert is intense.

But it doesn’t have to drain you.

More will come your way as a paid subscriber. Come along now!

Subscribe now

New Bonus for The Potted View Paid Subscribers when you register for this class. ⤵️

Register for this class through the Botanical Gardens and, as a paid subscriber, you’ll receive:

Bonus Worry Less Desert Heat Guide - Less guesswork. Less water. Less worry. This is how I‘be changed my approach with my summer pots.

Here’s how to get this exclusive guide:

1. Register for the Less Water, Less Worry Class Here:

Claim your seat here.

2. Become a paid subscriber to unlock the bonus guide:

(Already a paid subscriber? The box below will say “✔️ Subscribed”)

Unlock My Bonus Class Guide

3. Email me that you’re in! marylee@Potteddesert.com

🔜 What will happen next? A few days after the class, I’ll email all paid subscribers who signed up for the class, their Bonus Less Worry Desert Garden Guide.

I look forward to seeing you on the 19th of May. And don’t worry if you can’t make it live. All classes are recorded and deliver to your inbox.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Happy Potting!

Marylee

It’s happening. Triple digits are forecasted for this weekend.

If your summer pots aren’t planted yet, you still have a chance – in the morning before temperatures soar. After that you’re fighting the heat instead of enjoying your garden.

Here’s what goes in now:

My top four favorites

1. Vinca

2. Scaevola (Fan Flower) ~ purple is my favorite

3. Angelonia ~ Summer Snaps

4. Pentas

And if you miss the window this weekend? I bet that we will have another drop in temperatures soon. Watch the nighttime temps and when they are in the low 60s for a few days, plant in the morning.

This is exactly the kind of thing paid subscribers get from me all season long. The right information at the right moment. Everything you need to have living color in desert containers, 365 days a year.

$30 a year. If you’ve ever lost a plant you loved or had a pot that never looked right, this is the part that helps. You will save that money many times over.

Subscribe now

Stay cool!

Marylee

Live on Zoom. Watch from anywhere.

By late April, most of us feel hopeful.

We’ve replanted. We’ve refreshed soil. We’ve adjusted irrigation. The pots look good again.

And then summer arrives.

Temperatures climb past 100. Nights stay warm. Plants don’t recover the way they did in March. And somewhere around July, gardening starts to feel like maintenance instead of enjoyment.

Over the years, I’ve realized that summer success in the desert is less about finding tougher plants and more about adjusting our expectations.

We cannot garden here the way people garden in milder climates. And we cannot expect constant color and constant fullness from annuals that are living through extreme heat.

Smarter pots begin with attitude.

They begin with accepting that summer is about endurance, not performance.

And if I’m honest, many of us are also in a season of wanting endurance, not performance. We want beauty. But we don’t want to work twice as hard for it.

In this class, we’ll talk about:

• Letting go of the idea that every pot must be dramatic

• Designing for heat instead of for April

• Choosing structure that carries you through summer

• Reducing mid-season replacements

• Simplifying without giving up impact

This isn’t about giving up on summer containers.

It’s about approaching them in a way that feels realistic, sustainable, and calmer.

If last summer felt exhausting, this class may help you approach the next one differently.

Details and registration:

Register Here to Worry Less

The desert is intense.

But it doesn’t have to drain you.

More will come your way as a paid subscriber. Come along now!

Subscribe now

May is your last best chance to plant summer flowers before desert temperatures soar. Once we hit triple digits for goid, new plants struggle to establish, and you’ll find yourself fighting the heat rather than enjoying your garden.

Here is your May to do list

The key to success? Get your pots planted early and take a staged approach so you’re not exhausted by the process.

Step 1: Assess & Plan (Day 1)

Before you head to the nursery, take stock of your current containers:

✅ Remove struggling plants that won’t survive the summer.

✅ Prune and refresh perennials that will stay.

✅ Make a plant wish list, but stay flexible in case your favorites aren’t available.

Step 2: Choose Heat-Tolerant Plants (Day 2)

Look for plants that can handle full sun and high heat. Some of my top picks:

• Vinca – Loves the heat and doesn’t mind drying out between waterings.

• Scaevola (Fan Flower) – A stunning trailing plant that won’t wilt in the heat.

• Angelonia (Summer Snapdragon) – Adds height, color, and handles extreme temps.

• Pentas - Love Full sun and adds medium to tall height.

• Gaillardias - Perennial often treated as an Annual. Choose Mexican Blanket.

For lower water pots:

• Purslane – A succulent-like annual that thrives on neglect.

• Lantana – Blooms all summer, attracts pollinators, and thrives in pots.

Step 3: Refresh & Plant (Day 3)

Once you have your plants:

• Replace or refresh the potting mix to give roots the nutrients they need.

• Plant in the early morning when temperatures are lower.

• Water deeply after planting to help roots settle in.

Step 4: Protect & Maintain (All Summer Long)

As temperatures climb past 100°F, even heat-tolerant plants need extra care:

• Water early in the morning (or late evening if necessary).

• Use shade cloth or patio umbrellas for sensitive plants.

• Deadhead and prune to encourage continuous blooms.

Marylee’s Final Thoughts

May is your best window to set up your summer pots for success. Take it in stages, don’t overwork yourself, and enjoy the process! A well-planned container garden will reward you all summer long.

Subscribe now

What 16–20 inches really means

For years, I’ve taught that desert containers should be 20 to 24 inches or larger. And in full, all-day sun, that guidance still holds.

Large pots provide insulation. They hold more soil, which stabilizes temperature and moisture. In extreme heat, that stability matters.

So why am I now telling you that 16–20 inches can work?

Partly because I’ve become more tolerant of breaking my own rules.

As I’ve grown older and garden in a smaller yard, I’ve paid closer attention to what is necessary and what is simply habit. I still respect the 20–24 inch standard in harsh exposures. But I’ve also seen that many patios, courtyards, and townhome spaces don’t require that size — and in some cases, don’t function well with it.

Smaller homes. Narrow side yards. Walls that create built-in shade. Busy schedules. Less interest in wrestling oversized ceramic across concrete.

The question isn’t whether large pots work. They do.

The question is whether every desert container must be that large.

In most managed patio settings, the answer is no.

There is a functional middle range that provides stability without unnecessary weight or permanence.

That range is 16 to 20 inches.

Next, I’ll break down the real difference between 16 and 20 inches, how microclimate changes that decision, and why smaller pots often create more work in summer than you expect.

Read more

Late April is when I finally feel comfortable planting summer flowers in the desert. Yes, even this year when the desert has changed its rhythm. Below is the advice I give every year, but this year is different.

What I don’t know is:

1. Will summer flowers be ready early this year? I doubt it because growers probably didn’t plan for this early, record breaking heat.

2. Will we have a cool down in April? Again, I don’t know except I do see a drop in temperatures early in the month.

3. Will this summer be hotter than normal? Was a warm winter ansing?

My regular advice is that by the third week in April, the selection at the nursery is better. The soil is warm. Plants have been outside long enough to acclimate. The timing makes sense. Nurseries have had a chance to restock after landscapers have depleted their stock

This is the window. Of course, you can plant well into June. But now is the time to create the best garden you can. One that will last through the summer. Even in the full sun.

But it’s also the moment when people undo all the careful preparation they did in March and early April.

They walk into the nursery, see tables full of color, and fall in love with everything. One pot that could have been eye-catching and structured suddenly becomes five different varieties competing for space.

I understand the temptation. It’s spring. Everything looks beautiful.

But this is the desert. And summer is coming.

Let’s slow that down.

Before you go to the nursery --

>> Before you buy anything, stand in front of your ready pots. Yes, prep them before you go shopping.

Take a few minutes to decide what each container will be before you ever leave for the nursery.

Is this going to be a single-plant statement?

Is it a simple two-plant combination?

Is it a perennial anchor with seasonal support?

You don’t need a circus in every pot. Maybe a few, though. 😉

In extreme heat, simplicity performs better. Fewer varieties mean fewer watering conflicts, less competition for root space, and a cleaner look when plants are under stress.

>> Another important step happens once you bring plants home.

When you bring the plants home, put them in the shade and give them a good shower with water.

Before you plant, unless the plant is obviously well-watered, submerge each root ball in a bucket of water and let it sit until no more bubbles rise to the surface.

Even if the top of the soil looks moist, the lower half of the nursery container is often dry. If you plant that dry root ball directly into your potting mix, you’re starting at a disadvantage. The roots won’t expand properly into the surrounding soil, and the plant may struggle from the beginning.

Fully hydrating the root ball takes only a few minutes. It makes a noticeable difference in how quickly the plant settles in.

Planting season in the desert is not about speed. It’s about setting plants up to handle what’s ahead.

If you’ve ever replanted in April only to find yourself replacing everything again by July, what happens next is where the real difference begins. >>>

Read more

April is a transition month. And in the desert, transitions are short. This year in particular, our warmer than normal winter has turned into a HOT March

If you planted winter annuals back in October or November, they’ve done their job. They’ve carried you through the cooler months. And sometime in April, you’re going to look at them and know.

They’re done.

That’s not failure. That’s timing.

So before we talk about soil refreshes or big adjustments, let’s be clear:

Most of you will be pulling winter annuals out in the next couple of weeks.

That’s the normal rhythm.

If you planted pansies, snapdragons, violas, petunias, they’re not meant to push through May or June’s heat. They’ve already given you their best.

So April is not about trying to extend them indefinitely. It’s about watching and preparing.

When Do You Pull Them?

You’ll know.

The flowers slow down.

The stems get leggy.

They look tired even though you’re still watering.

You can deadhead and fertilize for a while. And I do. But once the sun shifts and temperatures start climbing into consistent upper 80s and low 90s with nights in hovering around 60, they begin to struggle.

At that point, it’s kinder to remove them than to force them to perform.

If you have shoulder-season plants or perennials in your pots, that’s different. Those stay. Those you watch more carefully as the sun changes.

But annual winter color? It has a season.

Let it finish.

Before we move on to more tips of my experience, here’s April’s Checklist:

Subscribe now

What To Pay Attention To Now

Early April is more about observation than action.

The sun is different.

Stand outside around 10 a.m. and just look.

Where are pots getting more exposure than they were in February?

Is a west wall heating up earlier?

Is reflected heat from block or concrete starting to build?

You don’t need to move everything. But you do need to notice.

Because in May, those small differences become big ones.

Watering Begins to Shift

This is also the month when your watering rhythm starts changing.

You don’t necessarily increase duration yet.

You increase awareness.

Check moisture more frequently. The soil is drying faster than it was a month ago. Nights are warmer. Roots aren’t getting as much recovery time.

If you were watering every five days, you might move to four. On my smaller pots, now in full sun, I’ve moved from every four days, to 3, to 2 and now every day.

If you hand-water, check deeper than the surface.

You are trying to prevent that wilt–recover–wilt cycle that weakens plants before summer even starts.

April is where you tighten up your consistency.

A Word About Potting Mix

If you’re pulling winter annuals in a couple of weeks and replanting for summer, don’t bother refreshing potting mix now.

You’ll handle that when you replant.

The only exception is if you planted perennials or shoulder-season plants that are staying in place. Then you may loosen and top off.

Otherwise, wait.

There’s no reason to do the job twice.

With patience, you will have a garden that lasts long into the summer.

PS. I suspect you might have noticed a difference in my writing style. I ‘blame’ it on my newest passion of writing fiction. If you haven’t seen it yet, my first novel, Whispers of Echo Canyon, is now available on Amazon.

An early review from a Canadian reader:

A Zoom Class through the Tucson Botanical Gardens

April 2 @ 10:00 am – 11:30 am MST

When the heat arrives, you deserve beauty that doesn’t need constant care. This class focuses on easy-care, full-sun combinations that last through the toughest months. Learn Marylee’s favorite heat-loving plants, low-maintenance pairings, and simple design formulas that hold up all summer. Whether you’re new to the desert or tired of trial-and-error, you’ll leave with clear planting plans that keep your pots thriving with less work.

New Bonus for The Potted View Paid Subscribers ⤵️

Register for this class through the Botanical Gardens and, as a paid subscriber, you’ll receive:

Bonus Easy-Care Desert Pot Guide - Less guesswork. Less work. Better-looking pots. This is how I care for desert containers now.

Here’s how to get this exclusive guide:

1. Register for the Easy Care Designs Class Here:

Register for Easy Care Pots Here

2. Become a paid subscriber to unlock the bonus guide:

(Already a paid subscriber? The box below will say “✔️ Subscribed”)

Unlock My Bonus Class Guide

3. Email me that you’re in! marylee@Potteddesert.com

🔜 What will happen next? A few days after the class, I’ll email all paid subscribers who signed up for the class, their Bonus Easy-Care Desert Pot Guide.

I look forward to seeing you on the 2nd of April. And don’t worry if you can’t make it live. All classes are recorded and deliver to your inbox.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Happy Potting!

Marylee