One of the most important shifts we can make in dog training is learning to look at behavior with curiosity instead of frustration. When a dog jumps, pulls, barks, or grabs something they shouldn’t have, our first instinct may be to ask, “How do I stop this?” A more useful question is, “Why is this behavior working for my dog?” Behavior doesn’t happen randomly. Dogs repeat behaviors that produce something they value, whether that is attention, access, movement, distance, play, food, or relief.

Consider a dog who jumps on visitors. Jumping may consistently produce eye contact, talking, touching, or even being pushed away. From the dog’s perspective, all of those things can be rewarding. Instead of focusing solely on stopping the jumping, we can teach an alternative behavior that produces the same desired outcome. Four paws on the floor could earn attention, for example. Now we’re changing the behavior without using intimidation or punishment.

The same approach works with pulling. A dog may pull because something interesting is ahead: a tree full of smells, another dog, a favorite walking route, or a person they want to greet. Rather than punishing the pulling, we can teach the dog that a loose leash provides access to those things. The environment itself becomes part of the reinforcement system. This makes training more meaningful because we’re working with the dog’s motivation rather than trying to suppress it.

Positive reinforcement training isn’t permissive training. It doesn’t mean allowing every behavior or ignoring behaviors we don’t like. It means understanding what maintains a behavior and intentionally reinforcing a more appropriate alternative. We can still manage the environment, use gates and leashes, prevent rehearsal of unwanted behaviors, and establish clear boundaries without creating fear.

The next time your dog does something you don’t like, pause before reacting. Ask yourself what happened immediately before the behavior and what happened immediately afterward. What did your dog gain? What need might they have been trying to meet? Once you understand that, you have a much better starting point for training. The goal isn’t to create a dog who never makes mistakes. It’s to create a dog who has better choices available to them.

Board and train is a popular subject and many dog owners want to go this route, but let’s talk about why it may not be what you expect. Board and trains help a dog build new skills, gain consistency, and get focused training, but there is one important reality every dog owner needs to understand before signing up: board and train is not a drop-off-and-walk-away solution.

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With summer comes heat, and sometimes even warnings telling us to stay inside. This time of year it is important to know how heat affects our dogs too. Did you know that a vehicle parked in the sun on a 70-degree day can rise to 100 degrees in just 20 minutes? A year or so ago, we had a day hit 105 degrees. After 20 minutes sitting in the sun at that temperature, your vehicle would be over 130 degrees inside. Even with the windows cracked, our vehicles can be one of the most dangerous places for our dogs. In fact, being kept confined in a vehicle is the number one contributing factor of heat stroke in dogs, a life-threatening emergency that if not fatal, can cause serious health implications.

What are the signs of heat stroke in dogs?

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Harmful algal blooms (HABs) have caused many pet deaths and it’s back in Utah again this year.

The stories are similar–Pet owners take their dogs to the lake for a fun-filled day of swimming and fetching, only to finish the day with the dogs showing symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing and excessive salivating. In many cases, the dogs are unable to recover from the poisoning and pass away.

What is it?

Toxic algae, or HABs, have what is called cyanobacteria. Under the perfect conditions, the bacteria multiplies quickly and forms colonies or blooms. These blooms are typically green, blue, brown or red, but are sometimes difficult to see. The algae has the potential to produce very harmful toxins. They typically occur in late summer or early fall when there are warm water temperatures, stagnant water, abundant sunlight and high phosphorus levels. This year, because of our extreme temperatures, HABs are appearing earlier. If these conditions last long enough, the blooms can grow and cover an entire lake, resulting in closure of the reservoir.

How do I Identify It?

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Several years back, I was standing outside my home, hose in hand, as I watched my neighbors setting off their personal fireworks. These weren’t just regular fireworks—they were modified explosions on steroids. These particular neighbors had a dangerous history of pyromania and had a few incidents where their experiments had gone wrong, so I got in the h…

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One of the most misunderstood terms in dog training is reinforcement.

People often use the words “reward” and “reinforcement” interchangeably, but in behavioral science they do not mean the same thing. Understanding the difference can completely change how we think about training, motivation, and learning.

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When it comes to positive reinforcement dog training, timing is everything. You can have the best treats, the perfect reward, and a motivated dog, but if your timing is off, your dog may learn the wrong behavior entirely.

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I recently saw a social media post about rattlesnake training with a dog in a typical snake aversion class. It had a voiceover saying something along the line of “I know people will hate me for saying this, but there is no way of doing rattlesnake training with positive reinforcement training,” then proceeded to show a video of her dog being shocked to the point where he reared up and fell backward, jerking away from the snake in the most awkward way possible, bending in positions no dog should ever bend in. Comments ranged as you would imagine. Some asked if the dog was okay, others talked about training methods, and one simply posted “what the hell did I just see happen to that dog?” but they all proved something that we, as content consumers, have to be aware of and saavy about: social media is full of “influencers” stating wrong facts, damaging information, and just plain incorrect information. It is full of uneducated people speaking on subjects they have no business speaking about, and these posts are dangerous to our dogs and to ourselves.

The correct fact of the matter in this case is that there are several ways to train your dog to avoid rattlesnakes with positive reinforcement training. In fact, more and more trainers are doing it every year, and vet offices, shelters, official organizations in the industry and more, all recommend using positive reinforcement instead of shock-collars, so this content, like so many others is based on false information and spreads the misinformation to everybody who sees the video. There is a list of valid resources at the bottom of this article.

As a certified dog trainer, I am one who offers positive reinforcement snake avoidance classes on the regular, so this particular post hit a nerve and the comments showed me that so much more public education is needed in this area. Here are several statements I hear all the time that are trying to justify using pain and fear and how they are incorrect. Please make sure when you see and consume content that you are doing your research and fact checking your information with educated sources, not generic “influencers” giving no sources other than their own opinions or the fact that they “have had dogs/animals their entire life.”

MY DOG MUST FEAR THE SNAKE TO STAY AWAY FROM IT.

YOU CANNOT TEACH YOUR DOG TO BE AFRAID OF A SNAKE FORCE-FREE.

Fear isn’t what prevents the dog from being bitten, so statements like these show me the person making them doesn’t understand the purpose of snake avoidance. At its core, the act of staying away itself is what protects them. If the dog is scared of the snake, they might stay away, or, many dogs have a fight instinct, so they very well may go toward the snake to attack if they are scared. The exact opposite of what you want. People assume fear means run away and that just simply isn’t the case with a lot of dogs (and humans).

You can teach your dog to pick up on the presence of a snake (smelling it, seeing it, etc.), and then turn that presence into a cue (the human isn’t needed) for the dog to stay away. The fear is irrelevant, but unfortunately, the human side of this feels more comfortable and secure if their dog is scared of the snake, so many humans choose to use fear and pain to train it because it makes them (the human) feel more secure. It’s a false sense of security. If you set aside the human psychology of why that is, look and think at the subject at a deeper level with more critical thinking, you will realize that fear, nor pain, is needed.

I’D RATHER HURT MY DOG (SHOCK MY DOG, HAVE MY DOG EXPERIENCE SOME PAIN/FEAR) THAN HAVE THEM BIT AND/OR DIE.

THIS IS THE ONLY SITUATION YOU NEED TO USE A SHOCK COLLAR.

We all can relate and understand that point of view, and that is why it is so common to hear it from snake aversion trainers especially, but also dog owners. If a little pain is necessary to teach them to stay away, then it’s worth it, right? (Hint: Wrong!)

The thing is, just like we talked about before, it isn’t necessary, so why would you purposely hurt your dog if you don’t have to?

A common example I give to people is this: think of teaching a child to not touch the stove burners. We don’t want them to get burnt/hurt, so we teach them the burners are hot. Well, one way you could teach them is to remove their free agency (place the shock collar on the dog and give the remote to somebody else) and place their hand on the hot burner (shock the dog when they show interest). They get burned and sure enough, they learn not to do that again. But that’s not necessary (and if you did that, you’d be on the hook for child abuse). There are better ways to teach your child to stay away from the burners and stay safe that don’t require them to get injured.

The same exact logic applies to our dogs. We have better ways of training it that teach the dog to stay away from the snake—ways that don’t involve fear, pain, or trauma. There is no need to purposely “burn” (used idiomatically, not literally) the dog to train them.

OWNERS HAVE TO BE AROUND TO MAKE THE DECISION FOR THE DOG WHEN USING FORCE-FREE TRAINING.

I hear this one quite frequently, and it’s simple to address because anybody who says things similar to this just doesn’t understand positive reinforcement training or the science behind it. The owner does not have to be around. When your dog is trained, the snake becomes the cue, not the owner. The dog doesn’t even need to see the snake because they can smell it. That part is the exact same regardless of training methods, so if a person says the owner has to be around to make the decision for the dog, they clearly don’t understand how the training is done and they shouldn’t be commenting or putting content out that is grossly stating inaccurate and wrong information.

THE SHOCK ISN’T THAT HIGH. IT DOESN’T HURT.

IT’S FINE AS LONG AS YOU USE THE “TOOL” THE RIGHT WAY.

Think about the following situation. You and another person have a shock collar and the other person puts it around your neck. They also have control of the remote.

o They get to choose the level the shock collar is at.

o They get to choose when you get shocked.

o They get to choose the behavior they want you to perform.

o Neither one of you are allowed to speak, and can only communicate through body language.

In this scenario, the person with the shock collar on is at the mercy of the person with the remote, and they have no idea what behavior the other person is wanting them to do.

Would you be nervous or anxious in this situation, even if it was a funny nervous/anxious? Maybe, maybe not. You most likely trust the person and hopefully they have your best interests at heart. Some may be extremely nervous because they have no control over what is going to happen to them at all.

The test continues and the person with the remote decides they want the other person to walk across the room, see and pick up on the scent of coffee, then walk away from that coffee without touching the mug.

This is fairly complex behavior, but now the challenge begins. You, as the person with the shock collar, first have to figure out what that behavior is. Then, you have to execute that behavior. Any misstep you take, you get shocked at whatever level the other person chooses. And remember, you cannot communicate at all with words, only body language.

Because it’s such complex behavior, it’s going to take some time for you to figure it out. You’re going to get shocked multiple times and you’re going to get frustrated over time. It might start out fun, but eventually, you will disengage, the frustration will build, and the other person may increase the shock-level as a punishment and then say the magic phrase: “Oh, come on, it doesn’t hurt that bad.”

Here’s the bottom line: You, as the person wearing the shock collar, are the only person who gets to say whether or not the shock hurts. The person with the remote, who is in control of the shock, isn’t feeling the pain. They aren’t feeling the anxiety or the fear you are going through, so therefore, they DO NOT get to say if it hurts.

The same thing applies to our dogs. We do not get to say “It’s just a little buzz/vibration/jolt/shock, it doesn’t hurt.” We have no idea what the dog is feeling pain-wise, anxiety-wise, fear-wise, etc. so anybody who says that or uses that excuse is using it as a justification, not a valid reason why it’s okay to use these “tools.” The only minor caveat to this is a person who has been formally educated in behavior and can read between the lines to get a general idea, but even this does not allow the human to say what the dog is feeling as a blanket fact.

Even somebody who has been educated and trained to “use aversion tools properly” does not get to make that decision. There is no proper way to inflict pain and fear.

Positive reinforcement training removes the fear and the pain and flips the script. Instead of punishing the unknown and the behavior we don’t want, we use scent, cues, visual, etc. to teach our dogs what to do when they pick up on those cues. It’s clearer communication, it’s been scientifically proven to work much better, and it’s much more humane.

As the summer heat increases and more and more snakes come out of their dens, this subject will come up more in social media and around the internet. As dog owners, please be aware that any content stating something as a fact should be verified. Make sure the person talking, even if they sound smart and like they know what they are talking about, has an educational background and professional experience working in the area they speak of. If the person doesn’t have that education, please do not believe what they say without doing a ton of research. They may be correct, or they may be stating something that is completely false, but don’t share something that hasn’t been verified with multiple legitimate sources.

Look for industry statements like the AVSAB position statements, veterinary offices and vets, humane societies, industry leading trainers, etc. All of these people can be trusted more than somebody who doesn’t have an educational background and professional experience behind them. Being a life-long pet owner and a social media “influencer” only goes so far when it comes to experience. You need the educational background and studies behind you to speak about most things.

Resources for further information:

https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/

https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/snake-avoidance-training-for-dogs/

https://www.animalcarectr.com/blog/the-striking-truth-about-snake-avoidance-training-classes

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/

Losing a pet can be one of the most painful experiences a person goes through. For many, pets are not “just animals”—they are companions, family members, sources of comfort, and daily routines wrapped into one living being. When someone is grieving that loss, the words we choose matter more than we might realize. Even well-intentioned comments can unintentionally deepen the hurt.

Here are some common things people say that can make grief more difficult—and why they miss the mark.

“There are hundreds of other animals waiting for homes.”
While it’s true that many animals need loving homes, this statement shifts the focus away from the loss and onto replacement. Grief isn’t about filling a vacancy—it’s about mourning a unique relationship that cannot be duplicated. Suggesting this too soon can make someone feel guilty for grieving instead of “moving on.”

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Training doesn’t have to be confined to a single space—and in fact, it shouldn’t be. Think of your training journey like a video game: your living room is level 1, a controlled, predictable environment where focus comes easily and distractions are minimal. It’s the perfect place to introduce new skills, build confidence, and establish clear communication through positive reinforcement.

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Bringing home a new puppy/new dog is exciting, but if you already have a dog, introductions should be handled thoughtfully. A rushed introduction can create tension or fear, which can have a permanent or lasting effect on the relationship of your dogs. Every situation is different, so introductions should be thought out well in advance and customized for each family.

Here are several ideas for you consider as part of your research in bringing home a new pup.

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Another very common question I receive is how do I stop my dog from constantly barking over nothing? This can look very different depending on situations, but most commonly, it’s a dog inside that can hear other dogs or disturbances outside, maybe barking on walks, or general nuisance barking.

Take a minute and imagine a dog sitting in a house with the blinds and window open. There’s another dog outside approaching the house and the inside pup catches it’s scent, hears it, or sees it approaching, which then starts the barking. Inside pup continues to bark until the outside pup has walked past the house and disappears out of sight. What just happened, scientifically speaking?

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Let’s talk crate training…it can be a hot topic. The end all, be all is this: it’s up to each dog owner whether they crate train or not. Some people see crates as a bad thing, and they can be. Others see them as a good thing, and they can be that too. It all falls on the owner in how they treat the dog and use the crate.

Personally, I used to hate crates because I thought it was cruel to cage an animal. It removed their freedom and I considered it to be a form of abuse (in certain situations). But, in early 2020, we had a large earthquake where I lived and it made me reframe my thought process. I realized there very well could be an event or a time that my dog wouldn’t have a choice other than to be in a crate. If something were to happen and I couldn’t get to her, rescues would step in, and she would be in a crate. So for her safety and comfort, I decide to train her to be comfortable in one for emergency purposes.

Ever since that event, I advocate for crate training as long as it’s done with positive reinforcement and as long as the owner doesn’t use the crate as punishment and/or abuse the crate. There are many good things about crates and crate training including emergency comfort, training, resting and more.

So, how do you train your dog to be comfortable in a crate? Let’s dive in.

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Jumping is one of the most frequent questions I get asked about being a trainer. It is very easy to teach your dog to jump, especially if you get them as a puppy. They are cute, small, and as humans, we want them in our laps and as close to our faces as possible. The next thing you know, they are licking your face, playing with toys held up high, or jumping up on your legs to get whatever you have in your hands. Unfortunately, as cute and fun as it is, you are unknowingly teaching them it is highly reinforcing to jump, and as they get older and bigger, the cute wears off and leaves behind the learned behavior, aka, “jumping.”

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When bringing a shy or overwhelmed dog into your home, one of the most helpful things you can do is slow down and let her set the pace. Trust takes time, and forcing interaction can actually delay progress. Instead of trying to engage her constantly, simply exist calmly in the same space. Sit across the room with some treats nearby and focus on a quiet activity like reading, doing a puzzle, or watching TV. You can speak to her gently and invite her over, but resist the urge to push interaction. By staying still and predictable, you give her the power to approach and retreat when she feels safe.

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Every pet owner should plan and prep for an emergency situation to come out of the blue. If something happens and you can’t get back to your pup, make sure you are ready by having an emergency kit stocked and ready to go for a pet sitter or emergency contact. We have included a list below of several items to include. Add customized items that are specific to your pup and region and remember to modify this for other animals/pets if you have them as well!

Important Documents

• Recent photo of your dog (printed + phone)

• Proof of ownership

• Local license info

• Medical summary sheet (one-page quick reference)

• Written Instructions for care

• Authorization letters for care (if needed)

Medications/Health Related Items

• Current medications (at least 7–14 days’ supply if possible)

• Heartworm/flea/tick preventatives

• Copies of prescriptions

• Vaccination records

• Microchip number & registry info

• Emergency Contact Card (Vet Name, address, phone #, 24 Hr. Emergency Vet Info)

• Pet insurance info (if applicable)

Food and Supplies

• 3–7 days of dog food (rotate every few months)

• Canned Pumpkin

• Collapsible food & water bowls

• Bottled water (enough for dog + cleaning wounds)

• Treats (useful for stress & cooperation)

• Feeding schedule and portion instructions

Creature Comforts

• Leash + backup leash

• Harness or collar with ID tags

• Waste bags

• Favorite toy(s)

• Chew or enrichment items

• Blanket or bed with familiar scent

• Crate or travel kennel (if used)

First Aid Kit Items:

• Adult Tube Socks

• Antibiotic ointment

• Antiseptic Wipes or Spray

• Bandages

• Bandage Scissors

• Benedryl (w/dosage info from your vet)

• Clotting and Regular gauze

• Disposable Gloves

• Doggie Aspirin (w/dosage info from your vet)

• Dosing Syringe

• Ice Pack/s

• Medical Tape

• Mushers Paw Wax

• Non-Stick Bandages

• Old, but clean, T-shirts

• Qtips

• Saline Solution for dogs

• Sling for carrying you pup

• Soft Basket Muzzle

• Styptic Powder

• Thermometer

• Tick Puller

• Towel

• Tweezers

• Vet Wrap

If you are a paid subscriber, we have a digital download available to you that contains 12 pages of important information you can fill out for your dog and have ready to go for your emergency kit. Some thumbnails of this pamphlet are included below.

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You may download the packet here:

https://trainingtoat.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Pet-Sitter-Pamphlet.pdf

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Dog training is expensive and this is your chance to have your question answered in a blog post.

• What problem behaviors are you working through?

• What would you like to ask a trainer?

• Is there something you are struggling to teach your pup?

Drop your questions in the comments of this post and we will use them as a content direction! As a perk for paid subscribers, they have priority to get their questions answered first.

Please note, this is only for dog training questions. I cannot provide help or advice with anything medically related.

If you are a dog owner, you are bound to encounter a dog with some reactivity issues. This is one topic I get asked about all the time and people want to know how to stop it. So, let’s dive in and take a look at some steps you can do to help.

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Emergencies are always unnerving and uncertain times bring about a sense of insecurity and fear for the human side of the human/animal bond. While you can never plan exactly right, you can do some planning ahead of time to ensure your pup and other animals will be taken care of when if/when an emergency happens. With the right preparation, you can ensure your dog is cared for even when you’re temporarily unreachable.

1. Build an Emergency Care Network

One of the most important steps you can do to prepare is to identify trusted people who can access your home and your animals in an emergency. This may include neighbors, nearby friends, family members, or a professional pet sitter. Make sure you communicated who those people are for not only your family, but to each other as well.

• Provide at least two emergency contacts in case one is unavailable. The more the better because in many cases, the emergency will effect multiple people.

• Share house keys, alarm codes, and clear instructions on where supplies are stored.

• Make sure these contacts are comfortable handling your dog and understand their routine. It’s always helpful to have them come over (assuming they are coming to your animal) to review things every once in a while just so they are prepared as well.

2. Create a Written Emergency Care Plan

A written plan removes guesswork during stressful situations. Place a copy in a visible location, such as on the refrigerator, and consider placing a copy somewhere digitally in case your contacts need to access it from online.

Your plan should include:

• Feeding schedule and portion sizes

• Medication instructions (dosage, timing, and storage)

• Veterinary contact information

• Behavioral notes (fear of storms, reactivity, escape tendencies)

• Contact information for all people in your Emergency Care Network in case they need to tag team to care for your animals.

Clear instructions help ensure your dog receives consistent care even when you can’t provide guidance in real time.

3. Stock an Accessible Emergency Supply Kit

Prepare a dog-specific emergency kit that can sustain them for several days. Store it in an easy-to-find location.

Include:

• Dry and/or canned food

• Bottled water

• Medications and supplements

• Leash, harness, and collar

• Waste bags and cleaning supplies

• Comfort items like a favorite toy or blanket & a shirt/items with your scent

Check and refresh this kit every few months to ensure food is fresh and medications haven’t expired.

4. Use Visible Emergency Pet Alerts

Emergency responders won’t know you have a dog unless you tell them. Place pet alert stickers on windows or doors indicating how many pets are inside.

For example:
“Dog inside – 1 medium-sized dog”

These alerts can prompt rescue personnel or neighbors to check on your dog if you’re unreachable.

5. Ensure Proper Identification

If your dog were to escape during an emergency, identification is essential.

• Make sure your dog wears a collar with up-to-date ID tags.

• Keep microchip registration information current.

• Store a recent photo of your dog on your phone and share it with emergency contacts.

• Consider having your dog wear a GPS locator on his/her collar.

These steps significantly increase the chances of a safe return if your dog gets lost.

6. Consider Technology for Remote Monitoring

Smart technology can provide peace of mind when you’re away and if phone/internet service is available. Remember, in an emergency, these won’t be available for the first several days.

• Pet cameras allow you to visually check on your dog.

• Smart feeders can dispense food remotely (if power and internet are available).

• Automated water dispensers can ensure hydration.

While technology shouldn’t replace human care, it can be a helpful backup during short-term emergencies.

7. Prepare Your Dog Ahead of Time

Dogs cope better in emergencies when they’re familiar with different caregivers and routines.

• Introduce your dog to emergency contacts ahead of time.

• Allow trusted caregivers to visit occasionally so your dog recognizes them.

• Practice short absences to reduce anxiety when routines change.

• Train your dog to be comfortable in a crate, even if you don’t crate them normally.

Familiarity reduces stress and makes emergency care smoother for everyone involved.

Final Thoughts

Emergencies are unpredictable and scary. The times we currently live in require us to be vigilant and prepared, so now is the time to prepare your animals for an emergency. Don’t put it off thinking you have plenty of time to prepare. Plan ahead, build a support network, and keep clear instructions and supplies ready. A little preparation today will go a long way even in a best case scenario. All the best to you and your furry (and not furry) companions.

Portions of this article were written with the help of ai. All information has been reviewed, changed, and updated by a dog-loving and animal-devoted human.