Via Rosa Italy

Wild Sardinian Honey

Via Rosa — Wed, 26 Aug 2026 15:02:51 GMT

Honey is one of those things I can’t resist. Whenever I visit a farmers market, there is honey. Whenever I travel, honey is one of the first things I pick up. Because each jar is completely different and reflects a part of the landscape that I can literally take home with me.

Of course, I’m not talking about plastic bear-shaped squeeze bottles. I’m talking about small jars filled with varying shades of amber-colored honey that catch the light and draw me in like a - dare I say it? - bee.

I was going to start this newsletter with a paragraph about Italian honey in general, but it’s almost impossible to sum up something that is so intensely regional. Even here in Umbria, the honey that comes from the Apennine hills can be completely different from the jars I get from the guy down the road.

One of the things that distinguishes Italian honey is how much the plant—and the place—matters. These honeys really do taste of where they come from. They are often identified by the flowers the bees have visited, and certain honeys are so closely tied to a particular landscape that they could really only come from that place.

It all comes down to the flowers the bees are foraging. So while I can’t write a general description of “Italian honey,” there are a few varieties you’ll see again and again in Italy. Here’s a quick primer:

Millefiori — Literally “a thousand flowers,” this is wildflower honey. Its flavor changes dramatically depending on where—and when—it is produced. This is always a good choice if you can’t make up your mind.

Castagno — Chestnut honey. Dark, intense and less sweet than most honeys, with a distinctive aromatic edge. I love this one on buttered toast, but also use it in cake recipes that call for honey since it gives a distinctive almost woodsy taste.

Acacia — One of the lightest and most delicate Italian honeys. Pale, floral and very sweet, it tends to remain liquid rather than crystallize quickly. If I’m adding honey to a drink or cocktail this is the one I choose.

Eucalipto — Eucalyptus honey. Amber-colored, aromatic and slightly herbal. Love this one in hot tea in the winter. Fun fact: this honey is known for its medicinal properties including antibacterial properties and high antioxidant levels. It’s said to relieve coughs, sore throats, and respiratory ailments.

Agrumi — Citrus blossom honey, usually made from orange, lemon or other citrus flowers. Pale, intensely floral and perfumed. This is the one I always bring back from Sicily.

Tiglio — Linden honey. Very aromatic, with herbal, almost minty notes. Its health properties include a calming effect, so this is what I drop into my chamomile tea in the evening.

And then there are the rarer honeys:

Abete — Fir honey, which is actually a honeydew honey rather than a flower honey. This means it’s not made entirely from honey bees, but bees actually collect the sugary secretions from an insect that lives on the sap of these trees. It’s made where pine forests are plentiful, and flowering trees are rare. It is dark, woodsy and much less sweet.

Corbezzolo — Strawberry tree honey. Intensely bitter, extremely rare and one of the most extraordinary honeys you will ever taste

NOTE: If you are taking honey back home from you from Italy, it is considered a liquid, so make sure it is either under 100ml/3 oz. or else wrap it up and put it in your checked bag.

Why Sardinia?

It goes without saying that great honey starts with great flowers. And by great flowers, I mean flowers that haven’t been exposed to pollution of any kind. These days it is getting harder and harder to situate beehives in places that are not only far from city fumes but also distant from the pesticides and chemicals commonly used in agricultural areas.

Which makes the hinterland of Sardinia—about as far removed from the pollution of the modern world as you can get—the perfect place if honey making is your thing.

I was first introduced to Sardinian honey on a press trip, where at almost every meal we were served the most divine fried pastry called seadas. They were filled with cheese and then drizzled with honey, so you got this incredible combination of salty and sweet.

But the honey added another, even stranger twist. It wasn’t just sweet. It was bitter. It was corbezzolo, one of the rarest honeys in Italy.

That first taste eventually led me to track down one of Italy’s most extraordinary beekeepers, working in an extremely remote part of Sardinia. Lucky for us, his honey is imported into the United States. Below you’ll find his story, as well as a special discount code for his honeys. And, of course, some of our favorite recipes.

Notes from Via Rosa: August 2026

Via Rosa — Tue, 11 Aug 2026 14:21:03 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter - so glad you’re here!

Here’s a taste of the newest content we’ve been sharing on our website lately - a fresh roundup of stories, updates, and inspiration we can’t wait for you to explore. Plus openings on tours for 2027!!

Join us in Italy!

Via Rosa organizes small group tours that explore Italy’s rich and diverse food culture. Each journey is thoughtfully led by either Elizabeth or Sophie (the founders of Via Rosa) or by a carefully selected Guest Host from their trusted circle of food experts and friends.

While most of our tours are currently waitlist-only (they sell out fast!), a few spots are still available on a handful of our tours. As a subscriber to this newsletter, you’re among the first to hear about these limited openings :

Fall 2026:

Nov 8-14 Parma with Sophie - 1 spot
Nov 8-14 Umbria with Elizabeth - 1 spot

Spring 2026:

You can always find our full schedule below. We will begin announcing tours for Fall 2027 next month, so stay tuned.

VIA ROSA TOURS

Where to Eat Near the Vatican

Tourist traps abound on the streets and squares surrounding the Vatican, and after spending hours traipsing through the museum, it would be easy to fall into one. But trust us, it’s worth walking a few extra blocks for genuinely good food. These are our top picks for where to eat in the area, from one of the our favorite markets in Rome to a glamorous restaurant that will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a film.

Where to Eat Granita, Grattachecca & Cremolato in Rome

Everyone knows about gelato, and it often gets all the attention. But when the Roman summer heat really kicks in and temperatures climb into the high 30s, there are days when even gelato isn’t enough.

That’s when we reach for something even more refreshing. The city has a whole world of frozen treats that locals have been enjoying for generations, from Sicilian granite to fruity cremolati and old-school Roman grattachecche.

Spaghetti al Pomodoro

What could be more classic than a simple spaghetti al pomodoro? In Italy, it’s the ultimate comfort food, appearing on tables all over the country. Everyone makes it, from the nonna preparing Sunday lunch for a big family to the Michelin-starred chef putting his own riff on the recipe. And here at Via Rosa, it’s one of our all time most frequent requests.

As Elizabeth notes, “When something is this simple, the ingredients do all the heavy lifting.” That’s why it’s crucial to use the very best ingredients you can find. In the summer, when tomatoes are abundant, use fresh roma tomatoes, boil them for about 30 seconds so their skin loosens, then peel and crush them by hand directly into a pan. Otherwise, use canned whole tomatoes or passata di pomodoro (i.e. uncooked tomato purée). Here are some brands we like.

Where to Shop for Homeware, Books & Gifts in Rome

As much as I love spending the day eating delicious food, stopping for gelato, and revisiting Rome’s incredible monuments, I always try to leave time for aimless wandering. Some of my favorite afternoons are spent strolling the city’s cobblestone streets, peeking into shop windows, and discovering the independent stores that make this city feel so special.

If you’re looking to take home something more memorable than the usual souvenir, these are the places I always recommend, whether you’re hunting for handmade ceramics, beautiful linens, antique treasures, an unforgettable book, or a gift with a story behind it.

Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Perperoncino

There are few pasta dishes simpler than spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino. Garlic, olive oil, chili and pasta. That’s really all you need, which is why it’s the kind of dish Italians make when there’s seemingly nothing in the house for dinner, or after a very late night out.

It’s also perfect when you’re craving pasta in the middle of summer, when it’s over 90°F outside and even the thought of standing over the stove makes you melt. All you want is something you can throw together quickly that still completely hits the spot.

Beyond Via Rosa: August 2026

Via Rosa — Tue, 04 Aug 2026 22:00:51 GMT

One of the best things about Via Rosa is the incredible community of writers, cooks, photographers, and storytellers who join us as guest hosts. We love introducing them to our guests because they’re passionate about what they do and generous in sharing their knowledge, whether around the table, at the market, or over a glass of wine.

Each month, we’ll share some of their latest work, from recipes and newsletters to books, podcasts, and more, so you can continue to enjoy their creativity long after the tour ends. And so you can get to know them even if haven’t been on a Via Rosa tour!

Coffee Cake

We are so excited to be partnering with Tim Laielli for a trip to Sicily next Spring. We’ve been following Tim for ages, and love his unique sense of humor. In this recipe he shares a delicious recipe for coffee cake as well as the sage advice that you should lie to your kids. Tell them it tastes like coffee and it’s more likely they will leave it along. Thus leaving more cake for you to eat yourself! If, after watching this and his other videos you too want to hang out with him, you can join Tim in Sicily next May.

Sicily with Tim May 2027

Tiramisu Ice Cream Cake

Tiramisu is good in any season, but transform it into an ice cream cake and it’s the dessert you need to survive a heatwave. Guest host Laura Vitale’s recipe is in the caption above. Laura is hosting a tour for Via Rosa next May in Puglia, where you probably won't have much tiramisu, but it will be made up for by an abundance of focaccia, orecchiette and pasticiotti.

Puglia with Laura May 2027

Chicken Meatballs with Feta-Filled Orzo

If you love dill, olives, or anything involving feta , this one’s definitely for you. It’s from guest host Erin O’Brien’s series WTF to Make for Dinner and we can attest that this meatball recipe is the perfect low effort big result kind of dish we love from her. Join Erin in Parma next March. While there may not be meatballs (not a thing there) there will definitely be prosciutto, pasta, balsamico and - if I know Erin - amazing wines.

Parma with Erin March 2027

Grilled Chicken Greek Salad

Speaking of greek-ish chicken recipes, we also love this one from Guest host Leah Koenig. Follow this link for the perfect summer recipe, plus some more links to some of her other chicken recipes because you can always use another chicken recipe. Join Leah next May for a Jewish Culinary Journey Through Sicily.

Sicily with Leah May 2027

Orzo Salad with Feta, Hazelnuts & Pickled Raisins

Guest host Jenny Rosenstrach clearly warns that this orzo salad is addictive. We can attest to that since we’ve made it 3 times in the last 2 weeks. Join Jenny in Sicily next May to eat your way through Palermo and the Western side of the island.

Western Sicily with Jenny May 2027

Mozzarella & Peach Salad

We have no idea why Italians don’t pair stone fruit with mozzarella. We agree with guest host Marissa Mullen that It should definitely be a thing. Join Marissa in Parma next April to see what she gets up to with Parmigiano, prosciutto and balsamico.

Parma with Marissa April 2027

You can find our full schedule of week-long food tours in Italy & Day Tours in Rome by clicking the button below:

Via Rosa Tours

The Bean Lover's Guide to Umbria

Via Rosa — Wed, 22 Jul 2026 15:01:58 GMT

We love legumes.

And if you’re already deciding this post isn’t for you because you’re thinking, “Wait... what’s a legume?” before quietly clicking away, bear with me. Legumes are beans. Beans are a beautiful thing.

During our tours in Umbria, and in Puglia as well, we tend to go heavy on the legumes because that’s what is locally grown and locally eaten. They appear in soups, salads, stews, pasta dishes, and on antipasto tables. They’re humble, yes. But they’re also one of the defining ingredients of these regions.

The challenge is that they’re not exactly theatrical.

We can invite you into a caseificio to watch mozzarella being stretched. We can stand beside a pastry chef as cannoli are filled to order. We can hand you a rolling pin and teach you to make fresh pasta.

Watching beans grow is... less exciting.

Sometimes the fields themselves are spectacular, like the endless flowering lentil fields around Castelluccio in early summer. Sometimes seeing how chickpeas actually grow is a revelation. Most of us have no idea what the plant even looks like

Castelluccio

But for the most part, the magic begins after the harvest. Once the beans have been dried, sorted, packaged, and eventually find their way into your kitchen.

I’ve become convinced that beans taste of the place.

Terroir for beans? I think so.

Just as wine reflects the soil and climate where it’s grown, so do beans. The altitude, the mineral-rich soils, the weather, even the farming traditions all contribute to beans that cook differently, taste differently, and somehow seem to belong exactly where they come from.

Which is why I wanted to introduce you, at least virtually, to some of our favorite bean producers in Umbria.

Why Umbria grows such good beans

Like so many of Italy’s great ingredients, beans ended up in Umbria because they simply made sense here. The region’s valleys, hillsides, and mountain plateaus provide ideal conditions for legumes, with fertile soils, cool nights, and relatively dry summers that allow them to mature slowly.

Many of the finest varieties are still grown at altitude, where the combination of cooler temperatures and mineral-rich soils produces beans with thinner skins and remarkably creamy interiors.

For centuries they were simply everyday food. Inexpensive, filling, easy to store through the winter, and naturally rich in protein, beans became one of the foundations of the Umbrian table.

Today they’re appreciated for exactly the same reasons, only now we’ve finally realized just how delicious they are.

The Umbrian Bean Pantry

Cannellini

The classic white bean. Mild, creamy, and delicate, cannellini are the beans you’ll find throughout central Italy in soups, salads, and simple side dishes. They hold their shape while remaining silky inside, making them one of the most versatile beans you can keep in your pantry.

Best for: soups, bean salads, bruschetta topped with smashed beans, and pasta e fagioli.

Borlotti

If cannellini are elegant, borlotti are earthy. Their beautiful pink-speckled skins disappear during cooking, leaving behind a rich, nutty bean with a fuller flavor. They’re wonderful simmered with tomatoes, rosemary, and olive oil or stirred into hearty soups.

Best for: minestrone, stews, and rustic side dishes.

Chickpeas (Ceci)

Umbrian chickpeas are generally smaller than the large commercial varieties sold in supermarkets. They have a firmer texture and a surprisingly sweet, nutty flavor that makes them worth seeking out. They’re equally at home in soups, salads, or simply dressed with excellent olive oil.

Best for: soups, salads, hummus, and roasting.

Lentils (Lenticchie)

Perhaps Umbria’s most famous legume comes from the high plains around Castelluccio di Norcia. Tiny compared to most lentils, they cook quickly without soaking and keep their shape beautifully. Their flavor is delicate, almost grassy, and they need little more than olive oil and salt.

Best for: warm salads, soups, and alongside sausages.

Roveja

One of Umbria’s oldest legumes, roveja (field pea) nearly disappeared before being revived by a handful of local farmers. The peas range from green to dark brown and have a robust, slightly wild flavor somewhere between lentils and peas. Traditionally they’re served in soups or ground into flour for a rustic porridge called farecchiata.

Best for: hearty soups and traditional Umbrian dishes.

Cicerchie

If there were an award for the most overlooked legume in Italy, cicerchie would probably win. Also known as grass peas, they’ve been cultivated since Roman times and have an earthy flavor somewhere between chickpeas and lentils. Once considered poor people’s food, they’re now appreciated as one of Italy’s oldest surviving crops.

Best for: soups, purées, and simple preparations with garlic, sage, and olive oil.

Buying Beans

The next time you’re in Italy, make sure you bring an extra suitcase just for beans and legumes. They make the perfect edible souvenir: they don’t need refrigeration, they’re easy to pack, and they’ll keep for a year or more.

But if a trip to Italy isn’t in your immediate future, don’t worry. I’d like to introduce you to one of my favorite family-run producers, whose beautiful beans and legumes are readily available in the United States. As an added bonus, Via Rosa subscribers will receive an exclusive discount code.

I’ve also gathered some of my favorite recipes so you can put your new pantry treasures to delicious use as soon as they arrive.

Notes from Via Rosa: July 2026

Via Rosa — Tue, 14 Jul 2026 16:02:31 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter - so glad you’re here!

Join us in Italy!

Via Rosa organizes small group tours that explore Italy’s rich and diverse food culture. Each journey is thoughtfully led by either Elizabeth or Sophie—the founders of Via Rosa—or by a carefully selected guest host from their trusted circle of food experts and friends.

The Culture of Food in Parma with Erin O’Brien March 7-13, 2027
The Culture of Food in Puglia & Matera with Zoë François March 14–20, 2027
The Culture of Food in Parma with Marissa Mullen April 18–24, 2027
The Culture of Food in Western Sicily with Jenny Rosenstrach, May 9-15, 2027

VIA ROSA TOURS FULL SCHEDULE

Where to Eat Gelato in Rome

As Rome settles into its long, hot summer and the city begins to feel like one giant pizza oven, there is one thing we start thinking about almost daily: gelato.

During the warmer months, it’s not unusual for us to have gelato once a day. Sometimes twice. Whether it’s a mid-afternoon break, an after-dinner stroll through the neighborhood, or simply an excuse to cool down and end the day on a sweet note, gelato is woven into daily life here in a way that few other treats are.

Of course, not all gelato is created equal. While you’ll find a gelateria on almost every corner in Rome, many of the brightly colored displays aimed at tourists have little in common with the home-made gelato artigianale that Romans seek out. The towering mountains of pistachio, banana and bright blue “smurf” flavors may look impressive, but good gelato is usually much more understated.

With that in mind, we’ve rounded up some of our favorite places in Rome to enjoy the real thing.

Panzanella

Panzanella is one of those dishes I make on repeat every summer. It’s the perfect way to use up ripe tomatoes and stale bread, and somehow tastes even better after it’s had time to sit.

Years ago, an Umbrian chef introduced me to this version, which swaps the usual stale bread for crunchy friselle, the twice-baked bread rings you’ll find throughout southern Italy. They soak up all the tomato juices and olive oil while keeping their texture, creating a hearty, flavorful panzanella that’s perfect for making ahead. It’s quickly become one of my favorite takes on this classic summer dish, especially on those meltingly hot days when the last thing I want to do is turn on the stove.

Cold Coffee Drinks You Can Order in Rome

When the summer gets into swing and the temperature rises to uncomfortable levels, these cold coffee drinks are here to save the day. If you’re used to drinking a giant iced coffee in the U.S., these beverages are a far cry from that. They’re all made using espresso, not drip coffee, so they’re strong and concentrated in flavor.

If you’re traveling in Italy this summer, branch out from the standard cappuccino or espresso and try these cold coffee drinks instead. We think they’re the perfect pick-me-up on a hot summer day.

6 Easy Tomato Recipes for Summer

Yes, we know you can find tomatoes in supermarkets all year long, but when summer rolls around and tomato season hits its peak, there’s simply nothing better. If you’re lucky enough to grow tomatoes in your own garden or have access to a farmer’s market with really good tomatoes, you know what we’re talking about.

Here in Italy, there may be no vegetable that feels more quintessentially Italian than the tomato. Even if tomatoes aren’t native to the region (they were brought over from the Americas in the 16th century), they’ve become an integral ingredient in Italian cuisine. Nowadays, there are more than 300 registered cultivars of tomatoes in Italy, including famed varieties like pomodoro di San Marzano, pomodoro del piennolo, and pomodoro di pachino.

In order to help you make the most of the season’s bounty, we rounded up six easy tomato recipes from our guest hosts that you’ll want to make on repeat all summer long.

You can find our full schedule of week-long food tours in Italy by clicking the button below:

VIA ROSA TOURS

Beyond Via Rosa: June 2026

Via Rosa — Tue, 30 Jun 2026 16:02:03 GMT

Each month, we’ll share some of their latest work, from recipes and newsletters to books, podcasts, and more, so you can continue to enjoy their creativity long after the tour ends.

Strawberry Cream Cheese Muffins

These Strawberry Cream Cheese Crumb Muffins from Erin Jeanne McDowell has us realizing that we need to bake more muffins. Join Erin next May to bake your way through Eastern Sicily, learning all about cannoli, cassata and more.

Sicily with Erin May 2027

Briny Feta Salsa

This Briny Feta Salsa , from Marissa Mullen, combines some of our favorite food groups: pickles, cucumber and feta. It’s basically an excuse to call pickles a meal and we are ok with that. Join Marissa in Parma next April to make a deep dive into all things delicious in that part of the world (and you can bet Parmigiano Reggiano will be on That Cheese Plate!)

Parma with Marissa April 2027

Sweet & Spicy Broiled Salmon & Pickled Veggies

Erin O’Brien’s series ‘WTF To Make For Dinner’ (was there ever a more apt series title?) always comes to the rescue just when we need it. Last week it was this delicious (and easy) salmon recipe. We made it and loved it!

Join Erin in Parma next March to learn all about Parmigiano, Balsamico, Prosciutto and so much pasta!

Parma with Erin March 2027

10 Cherry Recipes

Is your mind currently focussed on cherries? Ours too. Zoë François pulled all of her favorite sweet and tart cherry recipes together here for our convenience.

Bake focaccia, pasticiotti and more with Zoe next March in Puglia and Matera:

Puglia with Zoe March 2027

Ireland Itinerary

I’ve learned over the years to trust Jenny Rosenstrach to do the exact research for trips I want to take in the future. She’s shared her recent itinerary for Ireland here, and I’m taking notes.

Explore Western Sicily with Jenny next May:

Western Sicily with Jenny

Almond Liqueur

You know we love to make liqueurs, so this almond one, from Shereen Pavlides, is now officially on our ‘must make’ list. I mean, who even knew almond liquor was a thing? We’re saving this for next spring, when we have ripe almonds.

Join Shereen in Parma in October 2026 - just a few spaces left!

Parma with Shereen

Lemon Chicken Meatballs and Potatoes

We all could use another meatball recipe right? This Lemony Chicken version from Laura Vitale looks pretty much like our new favorite dish for summer entertaining. It’s got everything on one gorgeous platter.

Laura is heading to Puglia in May! Join her to learn all about burrata, focaccia and of course the Pugliese version of mini meatballs:

Puglia with Laura May 2027

Eggplant Caviar

We are so happy that eggplant season has arrived! The first thing up is Leah Koenig’s Eggplant Caviar. Don’t worry, no fish eggs here, just a smooth highly seasoned spread of silky eggplant. Great as an appetizer, but also works with grilled meats. Join Leah next May to explore the Jewish cuisine of Eastern Sicily.

Jewish Cuisine of Eastern Sicily

You can find our full schedule of week-long food tours in Italy & Day Tours in Rome by clicking the button below:

VIA ROSA TOURS

Notes from Via Rosa : June 2026

Via Rosa — Mon, 15 Jun 2026 15:01:26 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter—so glad you’re here!

Join us in Italy!

2026

September 27-October 3: Eastern Sicily with Elizabeth Minchilli (3 spots left)
October 18-24: Parma with Shereen Pavlides (2 spots left)

2027

We still have some spots available on our tours to Parma, Sicily and Puglia for next year. Visit our website for the details.

VIA ROSA TOURS 2027

Our Guide to Italian Beaches

If there’s one thing Italians know how to do well, it’s spend a day at the beach. And with summer finally here, the timing couldn’t be better. Even the first warm weekends of spring are enough to send entire families towards the sea, cars packed with umbrellas, beach bags, folding chairs, and enough food to feed a small army. And by August, it seems as though half the country has migrated to the coast.

Of course, everyone has their favourite stretch of coastline, and everyone swears theirs is the best. And honestly, they might all be right. Some people swear by the long sandy beaches of Sardinia, others prefer the wilder, rocky coves in Cilento. Some go for the beach clubs and aperitivo scene, while others are happiest with nothing more than a towel spread on a quiet patch of sand.

Of course, a day at the beach in Italy is about much more than sun and sea. It’s the seafood lunch that somehow stretches well into the afternoon, the stroll along the waterfront before dinner, the beach bar where you stop for a coffee and end up staying for an hour, catching up with friends between dips in the sea.

Over the years, I’ve been lucky enough to spend my summer vacations on beaches all over Italy, from famous stretches of sand to more hidden corners that still feel almost untouched. Here are some of my favourites.

Where to Eat and Drink in Venice

There’s no doubt that Venice is one of the most beautiful and unique cities in Italy, but it’s not the easiest place to eat well. Tourists outnumber residents here, so there are lots of tourist traps that cater to them. If you want to eat like the locals do, you have to know where (and what) to eat in Venice.

Venetian cuisine tends to focus on the fresh seafood fished from the lagoon, which is not necessarily the kind of fish you’ll find in the sea. Local specialties include softshell crabs (when in season), risotto with black squid ink, sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines), and baccalà mantecato (whipped codfish). You’ll also find vegetables native to this part of Italy, such as castraure (the first, prized buds of the purple artichokes that grow on the island of Sant’Erasmo), radicchio di Treviso, and squash.

Venetian restaurants tend to be small and the good ones book up in advance, so be sure to make reservations ahead of time, especially during major events like the Biennale. If you find yourself without reservations and in need of a bite, you can always go to a bacaro for cicchetti (we have a whole guide to them here). When we want to sit down for a proper meal or a drink, these are the places we like to go, in alphabetical order.

Where to Eat and Drink in Salento (Puglia)

Salento is the southern tip of Puglia and it feels like its own little world. We’ve been coming here for years, and every time I return I’m reminded why people fall so hard for this part of Italy. The light is softer, the sea seems to shine a little brighter, and the pace of life slows down, tempting you to stay longer than just a few days.

Most people try to see all of Puglia in one go, but Salento really deserves time of its own. The towns are close to each other, yet each has its own character, from Lecce’s golden stone streets and baroque churches to the tiny inland villages and quiet fishing towns along the coast. You can spend your morning swimming in water so clear it looks unreal, then settle in for a long lunch in a simple seafood trattoria where recipes haven’t changed in decades.

Here are some of my favorite places to eat and drink in Salento.

Everything you Ever Wanted to Know about Pecorino

In Italy, there are hundreds (maybe even thousands!) of different types of cheese. Parmigiano Reggiano, mozzarella, and burrata are among the most famous, but if you spend any time in Rome, you’ll quickly learn that pecorino is everywhere. The most classic Roman pastas feature pecorino romano, not parmigiano, and the hard, salty cheese sometimes appears in sandwiches, meat and cheese boards, and elsewhere.

But pecorino romano isn’t the only type of pecorino, so what exactly is pecorino anyway? And how can you choose the right pecorino? Read on to find out.

You can find our full schedule of week-long food tours in Italy by clicking the button below:

VIA ROSA TOURS

Farro is the Grain We Love in Summer

Via Rosa — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 16:04:24 GMT

While many people welcome the advent of summer with a big bowl of pasta salad, my heart is drawn in a different direction: farro. If you don’t quite understand what I’m talking about, you’re not alone. Bear with me.

First of all, I was never a fan of pasta salad, which doesn’t really exist in Italy for a very good reason. Pasta is meant to be cooked and then eaten immediately. Otherwise you get flabby pasta that turns slightly mushy once it soaks up all of whatever the hell you’re adding to your pasta salad. The only exception is when Italians prepare pasta and then take it to the beach. It’s called pasta fredda, but it’s never served cold (always room temp) and is definitely prepared at the very last minute before heading out the door.

What Italians do turn to in the summer is insalata di riso, or rice salad. There is an entire section in supermarkets dedicated to stocking up on ingredients for it. First of all, the rice, which is always the most boring one available: long grain. And then the mixture of pickled vegetables sold in small jars and labeled “per insalata di riso.” These mixtures come in different varieties, either packed in olive oil or brine (in case you’re on a diet). Some even contain what has become a common protein addition: sliced hot dogs

Even though I’m making fun of insalata di riso, I am a fan. Over the last 35 summers at our home in Umbria, I have probably made my weight in rice salad and then some. I do jazz it up with fresh herbs, olive oil-packed tuna, and my own homemade pickles. And I have even been known to stock up on the pre-made Condiriso pickle mixes.

But my come-to-Jesus moment in this decades-long rice salad odyssey came when I realized I didn’t have to use rice. I could use farro. All of a sudden, my go-to easy lunch became something I actually got excited about.

A Crash Course in Farro

Farro is an ancient variety of wheat that has been grown in Italy for thousands of years. In fact, it was a staple of the ancient Roman diet and was even mentioned by Virgil. Like many good things, farro declined with the rise of intensive modern wheat cultivation after World War II. But since the 1990s, it has experienced a revival thanks not only to its nutritional value, rich in fiber, protein, magnesium, and vitamins, but also to its versatility and unique chewy texture that I (and evidently a lot of other people) love.

Most Italian farro is emmer wheat (Triticum dicoccum), a hardy grain with a chewy texture and mild, nutty flavor. It is sold in several forms, including whole, semi-pearled, and pearled.

Here’s where things get a bit confusing. “Farro” is actually an Italian umbrella term that can refer to three different ancient wheats:

Farro piccolo = einkorn (Triticum monococcum)
Farro medio = emmer (Triticum dicoccum)
Farro grande = spelt (Triticum spelta)

In Italy, when you buy farro, especially from Umbria, Tuscany, or Abruzzo, it is almost always emmer wheat, or farro medio. Spelt is a related grain, but it is not the same thing. Although, to make it even more confusing, all three types are regularly referred to as spelt. But this is probably way more information than you bargained for.

Four Reasons Why I Love Farro in the Summer (and Why You Will Too)

Unlike rice and pasta salads, which tend to grow sadly mushy, farro remains firm. In fact, its chewiness is part of its charm.
Its pronounced flavor means it’s not the completely blank canvas that rice or pasta can be. It brings its own nutty character to any recipe you decide to use it in. And when it comes to summer grain salads, it pairs surprisingly well with spicy greens like arugula or generous handfuls of fresh herbs.
It’s also good for you. I know this is not a health-food-oriented space, but even I am conscious of upping my whole grains. Since it’s also full of fiber, protein, and magnesium, it’s a win-win.
Farro is also good for the environment. Ancient grains like farro are naturally resilient, thriving in poor soils and challenging climates with fewer chemical inputs than modern wheat varieties. Their cultivation helps preserve agricultural biodiversity and genetic diversity, both of which are increasingly important as farmers adapt to climate change. Just as importantly, growing and eating these grains keeps traditional farming practices and food cultures alive. Including organic farming.

Where Farro Grows

I’ve been lucky enough to call Umbria home for the last 30 years, and legumes and grains have always been an important part of the traditional diet here. While I mentioned the recent resurgence in farro’s popularity, this is one region where it never totally disappeared, which made it easier to revive.

Guido and Paola run the 1,200-acre organic farm Bio Alberti in Poggio Aquilone. I first visited the farm in 2018, when their son Andrea took my friend Laura and me on a bumpy ride in his Fiat through fields of chickpeas, cicerchie, lentils, and of course grains like barley and farro. Although the farm has been in the family since the 1930’s, it was Guido and Paola’s vision that transformed it into a model for a return to traditional organic farming methods in the late ‘90’s. Today the fourth generation, Andrea and Benedetta are continuing to the family business.

This is exactly the type of place we love to support, and share with our Via Rosa guests. We spent a day there during a recent Umbria Tour. We learned that rather than chasing high-yield modern wheat varieties, the family focusses on heritage crops like farro, grown organically and processed with care. The result is a grain that retains not only its nutritional value, but also the flavor and texture that make it such a pleasure to cook with and eat.

How to Farro

Don’t worry. There is not going to be a pop quiz on the nomenclature of various heritage Italian grain varieties or their nutritional value. And you don’t even have to track down the best source to buy it. I’ve done that for you.

Luckily, Bio Alberti grows two excellent varieties of farro, and another good friend imports them into the USA.

For Via Rosa subscribers, we’ve partnered with them to offer a special discount code, along with our go-to farro recipes.

The code and recipes are waiting just below the paywall.

Notes from Via Rosa

Via Rosa — Fri, 15 May 2026 16:18:09 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter—so glad you’re here!

Join us in Italy!

The Culture of Food in Puglia with Erin O’Brien September 13–19, 2026
The Culture of Food in Eastern Sicily with Elizabeth Minchilli September 27–October 3, 2026
The Culture of Food in Parma with Shereen Pavlides 18–24, 2026
The Culture of Food in Puglia & Matera with Zoë François March 14–20, 2027
The Culture of Food in Parma with Marissa Mullen April 18–24, 2027
The Culture of Food in Umbria with Sophie Minchilli, scheduled for April 25-May 1, 2027

Where to Eat, Drink & Stay in Florence

As the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence tends to draw travelers for its architectural marvels and artistic treasures, but we think it’s also one of the best cities in Italy for food. To eat well, though, you have to know where (and what) to eat in Florence. Traditional Florentine cuisine has its roots in cucina povera, the humble recipes of the peasants and farmers who tended the land. This is not the place to eat pizza; you’re better off going to Naples or Rome for that.

In Florence, you can expect to find lots of beans and legumes, which have always been cheap and easy sources of protein, off-cuts like tripe and lampredotto, and dishes that make the most of leftovers, such as panzanella and ribollita, two recipes that revive stale bread. And since wild boar roam the countryside, it’s common to find pasta with wild boar ragu on menus in Florence. The most prized specialty here is bistecca alla fiorentina, the massive t-bone steak made with premium Chianina beef. Don’t be surprised if the waiter doesn’t ask you how you’d like it done; it’s served rare and Florentines wouldn’t have it any other way.

Fave, Pecorino & Asparagus Pasta

There are a few dishes in Rome that feel tied to a specific moment in the year, and fave e pecorino is one of them. Traditionally eaten on May 1st, and a staple on Roman tables all spring long, it’s about as simple as it gets: fresh fava beans, pecorino, and a long lunch in the countryside.

Here, that same combination turns into something a bit more substantial. The sweetness of the fava beans and the sharpness of the pecorino are paired with spring asparagus, for a pasta that feels both rooted in tradition and very much of the season. And if you’re after something a little richer, you could also add a bit of pancetta or guanciale, lightly crisped.

Where to Eat, Drink & Stay in Umbria

Umbria has long been a place we hold dear. It’s where we escape Rome on weekends, and where Easter and much of the summer tend to unfold.

While we love it in every season, spring in Umbria feels especially magical. The hills turn an almost impossibly bright green, the days grow warmer, and long lunches outdoors slowly become the norm again.

We’ve already shared guides to Perugia and Todi, but so much of our time here is spent exploring beyond them. Whether it’s wandering the flower-filled streets of Spello, stopping for a glass of Sagrantino in Montefalco, or lingering over lunch in small towns like Bevagna and Trevi, some of our favorite meals have happened in these quieter corners of the region.

Where to Eat, Drink & Stay in Central Puglia

Central Puglia, which includes the Itria Valley and world-famous Alberobello, is the part of the region that most people imagine when they dream of a trip here: whitewashed hill towns, olive groves that seem to stretch forever, trulli scattered across the countryside, long seafood lunches by the sea and warm evenings in tiny piazzas. I’ve been coming here with my family since I was little, and so many of my childhood memories come from long summers spent exploring these small towns. It really feels like the heart of Puglia to me, full of small family-run places where you can eat incredibly well without trying too hard.

You can find our full schedule of week-long food tours in Italy by clicking the button below:

VIA ROSA TOURS

Why We Love True Pecorino Romano

Via Rosa — Tue, 05 May 2026 16:01:53 GMT

If you’ve heard of pecorino, chances are it’s because you decided to make Cacio e Pepe and discovered that it’s one of the three essential ingredients. When a recipe is that stripped down, every component matters. A lot.

Which brings us to a common problem: finding true Pecorino Romano isn’t always as straightforward as it should be.

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Pecorino 101

First things first: not all pecorino is Pecorino Romano.
“Pecorino” simply means a cheese made from 100% sheep’s milk. Since sheep are raised all over Italy, pecorino can come from anywhere, from Sicily to the Alps, and each region produces a cheese with its own distinct flavor.

Here are a few of the most well-known:

Pecorino Toscano
If I’m buying pecorino for the table, this is often my go-to. From central Italy, it tends to be slightly nutty, balanced, and mild enough for snacking. The town of Pienza and its surrounding countryside are particularly famous for it.

Pecorino Sardo
They say there are more sheep than people in Sardinia, which translates into a lot of pecorino. Produced by shepherds in the island’s mountainous interior, it’s typically more rustic and assertive than its Tuscan cousin.

Pecorino Romano
Traditionally from Lazio, the region around Rome, this is perhaps the most famous, and most misunderstood, of them all. Its origins go back to ancient Roman times, and it remains the backbone of some of Rome’s most iconic pasta dishes.

So far, so simple. But here’s where things get complicated.

The Pecorino Romano Problem

Today, most Pecorino Romano is actually produced in Sardinia, despite its historical ties to Lazio. And yes, that shift matters.

Even when the production method remains the same, the environment changes everything. Sheep grazing on different grasses, living in different climates, produce milk with different characteristics. It’s the classic terroir story, and you can taste it.

Sardinian Pecorino Romano is produced on a larger scale. It tends to be milder, more consistent, and slightly less aggressive in sharpness. None of these are bad qualities, but they do result in a more uniform cheese.
Lazio-produced Pecorino Romano is incredibly rare. Only a handful of producers still make it. The result is a more complex, nuanced cheese, shaped by local pastures, traditional methods, and smaller-scale production.

And then there’s something else to watch out for: “Romano” cheese made in the United States. Despite the name, it’s not the same thing at all. Often made from cow’s milk, or a mix, it is hard, brittle, and one-dimensionally sharp, lacking the depth and character of true Italian pecorino. It’s probably the reason you think you don’t like Pecorino Romano.

Why It Matters

All of this matters because Pecorino Romano is the backbone of some of Rome’s most beloved pasta dishes, not just Cacio e Pepe, but also Amatriciana and Carbonara.

When there are so few ingredients, the cheese isn’t just part of the recipe. It is the essential part of the recipe.

So if you’ve ever wondered why your pasta doesn’t quite taste like it does in Rome, this might be the missing piece.

The Good News

I’ve tracked down a source for Pecorino Romano that’s still produced in Lazio, using milk from small local farms just outside Rome. The wheels are formed and then aged in traditional cellars, resulting in a cheese that’s far closer to what you’d find in a Roman kitchen.

For Via Rosa subscribers, we’ve partnered with a shop we love, to offer a special discount code, along with our go-to recipes for this trio of pastas, plus a few step-by-step videos.

The code and recipes are waiting just below the paywall.

Notes from Via Rosa

Via Rosa — Wed, 15 Apr 2026 15:31:28 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter—so glad you’re here!

Here’s a taste of the newest content we’ve been sharing on our website lately - a fresh roundup of stories, updates, and inspiration we can’t wait for you to explore. Plus last minute openings on tours for 2026!!

6 Spring Recipes

After a very rainy winter here in Italy, spring has sprung and with it, the first peas, fava beans, and asparagus have started appearing at the market and fruttivendolo. If you’re in Italy, now is the time to enjoy the last of the artichokes and winter citrus while waiting for the first strawberries of the season. We always look forward to spring and the fresh green vegetables it brings, so we thought now would be a great time to round up some inspiring recipes from our guest hosts that you can cook all season long.

Our Italian Easter Menu

Easter in Italy tends to follow a familiar rhythm. There’s almost always lamb at the center of the table, simply roasted and surrounded by the best of spring: artichokes, peas, asparagus. Antipasto might include cured meats, fresh fava beans and pecorino, and of course hard boiled eggs, a symbol of the holiday.

The first course is where there’s more room to improvise. One year it might be asparagus soup, another pasta al forno or risotto with whatever is in season. Dessert, on the other hand, is rarely up for debate, with classics like pastiera, colomba, and the inevitable chocolate eggs making their annual appearance.

Here, though, I’ve taken a slightly different approach. Each dish is rooted in tradition, but a little less obvious: a spring lasagna with artichokes, a Roman-style lamb inspired by the city’s Jewish cooking in place of the usual roast, a simple kale salad, and ciaramicola, a festive Easter cake from Perugia to finish. It’s quintessentially Italian without being predictable, and the kind of meal that makes the whole table feel just a little extra special.

And although Easter is past, this menu makes the most of Spring all season long.

Where to Eat and Stay in Bologna

If I had to choose one city in Italy for a long weekend devoted to good food, it would probably be Bologna. After all, Italians nicknamed it la grassa, the fat one, for a reason. And that tells you quite a lot.

Bologna has always felt unapologetically itself. It’s not trendy or polished in the way some northern cities like Milan or Turin can be, and despite its endless porticoes and medieval bell towers, it doesn’t lean on grand monuments to impress you. Instead, it’s a city of atmosphere and appetite that wins you over gradually, one homemade dish at a time. I always tell people that Bologna is less about ticking off sights and more about planning your meals.

Our Guide to Todi (Umbria)

For over thirty years, my family and I have split our time between our two beloved homes: our apartment in Rome and our villa in the hills outside Todi, in Umbria.

While life in the city tends to be busy, with errands to run, restaurants to try, and almost always somewhere to be, in the countryside things slow down quite a bit and we end up spending most of our time at home. In the winter there’s a fire going, and in the summer the pool makes it very tempting not to leave. When it comes to eating, our large marble table under a shady, vine-covered pergola means having people over for lunch or dinner is a no-brainer. And since most of the ingredients come straight from our garden, the menu planning usually takes care of itself.

Still, every now and then it’s nice to head into town. Perched high above the valley of the Tiber River, Todi is one of those classic Umbrian hill towns that seems to float above the countryside. With its medieval streets and beautiful central piazza, it feels both elegant and wonderfully laid-back. And luckily, there are plenty of good places to eat and drink, from traditional trattorie to wine bars and relaxed little spots for coffee or aperitivo.

And while Todi isn’t as big or as well-known as Perugia, which we’ve already written about in a dedicated guide, we think this town deserves one of its own, since we spend so much time here and it holds a special place in our lives.

Meet the Artisan: Schostal Originals

Schostal Originals is one of the rare stores that feels timeless but not frozen in time. Enter off the elegant Via della Fontanella di Borghese and you find yourself in an old school shop with shelves stacked floor to ceiling with shirts, sweaters, socks, and pajamas perfectly folded and wrapped in plastic or cardboard boxes. Antique wood-and-glass display cases are filled with silk scarves and ascots. Running the show from behind the counter is Shirley Braine, whose husband Roberto Bloch represents the third generation of proprietors.

Opened in 1870 by the Schostal brothers from Vienna, the shop was originally located on Via del Corso and sold petticoats, handkerchiefs, stockings, and shirts. When Lazaro Bloch acquired it in the early 1900s, he kept the name and passed it down from generation to generation. Framed on the walls are archival documents attesting to the store’s prestige, including a certificate from King Vittorio Emanuele III declaring it an official supplier of the royal house of Savoy dated 1918.

Join us on a Tour in Italy

While most of our tours are currently waitlist-only (they sell out fast!), a few spots have just opened up on select departures with our guest hosts. As a subscriber to this newsletter, you’re among the first to hear about these limited openings.

September 13-19, 2026: The Culture of Food in Puglia hosted by Erin O’Brien

PUGLIA WITH ERIN

October 18-24, 2026: The Culture of Food in Parma hosted by Shereen Pavlides

PARMA WITH SHEREEN

You can find our full schedule of tours by clicking the button below

VIA ROSA TOURS

The Olive Oil That Tastes Like Sunshine

Via Rosa — Mon, 06 Apr 2026 16:10:38 GMT

There are two things I almost always do at the very end of cooking, little gestures that wake everything up. A generous swirl of my best extra virgin olive oil. And a squeeze of citrus, sometimes with a bit of zest if I’m feeling particularly virtuous.

The olive oil part? I know you’re already doing that.

But citrus? Probably not nearly as often as you should.

In winter especially, when the food leans heavier and the citrus is at its absolute peak, I find myself reaching for lemons, oranges, even limes, constantly. It’s that brightness, that lift, that cuts through richness and makes everything taste more like itself.

One of my favorite ways to get both of these finishing touches in one go is with a very special oil from Abruzzo. It’s called Agrumato, and like many of the best things in Italy, it began not as an invention, but as a part of an age old tradition

At the end of the olive harvest throughout Abruzzo, it was common practice to throw whole lemons into the press, not for flavor, but to clean it. The acidic juice helped cut through the stubborn olive residue, especially back when traditional fiscoli (those thick woven mats used in pressing) were notoriously difficult to wash.

What emerged from the mill wasn’t exactly olive oil. But it was intriguing enough to spark an idea.

The Ricci family decided to take it up a notch. What if, instead of cleaning the press, you intentionally pressed olives together with fresh citrus?

The result is something entirely different. Not an infused oil (and I say this with emphasis), but a co-pressed oil. The olives and citrus are crushed together at the same time, so what you get is a true extraction of both, the richness of high-quality extra virgin olive oil and the essential oils from the citrus zest.

No artificial flavoring. No afterthought.

And importantly, none of that slightly aggressive, one-note quality you often find in infused oils, which tend to rely on mediocre oil dressed up with overpowering additions like garlic or chili.

Agrumato is balanced. Elegant. Integrated.

The original lemon version was the first one I fell for, and I used it on everything, steamed asparagus, sautéed spinach, grilled fish, salads. The usual suspects. But over time the Ricci family, who helped bring this method into wider recognition, kept experimenting, and now there are versions with orange, mandarin, citron, even bergamot.

The bergamot, by the way? Life-changing. I recently drizzled it over panettone, and it completely rewired my understanding of what that humble holiday cake could be.

And this is the thing I’ve learned. These oils aren’t just for vegetables. They’re for anything that could use a bit of light, which, if we’re being honest, is almost everything.

COOKING WITH AGRUMATO

If this has piqued your curiosity, I have a little treat for you. Olio2Go, one of my favorite sources for exceptional olive oil, has offered Via Rosa readers a 10% discount on all Agrumato oils.

And to make it even better? I’m sharing a few of my favorite recipes.

My shipment of Agrumato oils arrived just in time for Easter, and I’m including some of the ways I used them, just in time for your spring table.

Notes from Via Rosa

Via Rosa — Tue, 17 Mar 2026 16:02:46 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter—so glad you’re here!

Here’s a taste of the newest content we’ve been sharing on our website lately - a fresh roundup of stories, updates, and inspiration we can’t wait for you to explore.

7 of the Best Markets in Rome

If you ask us, the best way to learn about the food culture in any city is to visit its markets. It’s one of our top must-try food experiences in Italy and an integral part of our tours. More than just an errand, shopping at the local market is a ritual—a chance to chat with the vendors, exchange cooking tips or recipes, and find inspiration to use in the kitchen. In Rome, where our team is based, there are dozens of markets where locals go to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, fish, cheese, bread, and other items. From a farmers market near the Circus Maximus to a gourmet food hall inside Termini Station, these are the best markets in Rome.

Lentil and Pancetta Soup

One of the things I love most about lentils is how easy they are. No soaking, no planning ahead, and dinner is still on the table in under an hour. They’re a pantry staple I always have around, and one that never lets me down.

This soup came together one night without much of a plan, the way most of my favorite meals do. I blended the pancetta and celery into a fine paste for the base, which gives the broth instant depth, and finished each bowl with a few simple extras that made all the difference.

Rich, comforting, and somehow much more than the sum of its parts, it’s the kind of soup that makes you stop talking once you start eating, and proof that lentils don’t need much to shine.

Where to Eat and Stay in Bologna

Many of my trips here happen simply because I start craving proper ragù, but what I love most is that Bologna isn’t frozen in time and always finds a way to surprise me. Alongside the historic dining rooms and white tablecloth institutions, there’s a younger generation of chefs, bakers and wine bar owners rethinking the classics without losing sight of where they come from. It’s a city where you can move from a traditional pasta lunch to a modern tasting menu in the same day and have both feel entirely right.

These are the places I always suggest to friends visiting, from classic addresses to newer favourites, plus two hotels that make an ideal base for eating your way through the city.

13 Sicilian Dishes You Have to Try

Though it’s just 20 minutes from mainland Italy across the Strait of Messina, Sicily is an entirely separate entity with its own history, heritage, and cuisine. Over the centuries, it was ruled by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Bourbons before becoming part of the unified country of Italy. And all of the cultures that have passed through have left their mark on the island’s gastronomy. It’s also blessed by natural resources and fertile soil, where everything from tomatoes and grapes to almond and pistachio trees grow. Sicily’s rich food culture makes it one of our favorite places to bring guests on our tours. Whether you join one of our Sicily tours, or visit the island on your own, these are the Sicilian dishes you have to try there.

Via Rosa organizes small group tours which explore the culture of food in Italy. You can find our full schedule by clicking the button below:

VIA ROSA TOURS

Not All Anchovies Are Created Equal

Via Rosa — Mon, 02 Mar 2026 16:01:05 GMT

I know I go on and on about quality. But there’s a reason.

The way I cook — and the way I write recipes — usually involves just a handful of ingredients. When a dish is made up of four or five things, each one matters. There’s nowhere to hide. If one ingredient isn’t the best you can find, the whole dish suffers.

And nowhere does this matter more than with anchovies.

Most people take those little jars for granted. And that’s the people who actually like anchovies. If you’re someone who says you hate them? I’m willing to bet you’ve never had great ones.

Because there are anchovies. And then there are anchovies.

I learned this thanks to my friend Rolando, who once showed up at my house in Umbria for the weekend carrying a small jar as a hostess gift. Not wine. Not cheese. Anchovies. Honestly, I shouldn’t have been surprised — he knows me well.

The next day at lunch, he toasted slices of bread, spread them generously with butter, and laid one perfect, silvery fillet over each piece. They glistened. They were firm. Beautiful.

And when we bit into them, we all just looked at each other.

They weren’t aggressively salty. They weren’t harsh or fishy. They were clean, almost sweet, tasting like the sea rather than “fish.” It was a revelation.

That little jar sent me straight to Cetara to fish for anchovies.

Down to the Source: Cetara on the Amalfi Coast

I wasn’t being poetic when I say I went anchovy fishing. I mean we got on a boat.

Cetara, on the Amalfi Coast, is one of the oldest anchovy-fishing towns in the Mediterranean. As the sun set over the village, we headed out to see how it’s done.

Fishing happens at night using a lampara — a bright light lowered over the water that mimics moonlight and draws anchovies toward it. As the fish gather near the glow, boats circle them with purse-seine nets, tightening the ring. In the final moments, the anchovies leap and flash in a silvery frenzy before the net closes.

They’re packed in ice immediately and brought ashore by morning.

From there, the work continues — and this is where centuries of tradition are still very much alive.

The heads and guts are removed (it’s still mostly men who fish and women who process), and the fish are tightly layered in barrels with sea salt. A weight presses them down. Over months — sometimes up to a year — the salt draws out moisture and concentrates flavor.

Timing is everything. Too short and the flavor is flat. Too long and the flesh softens too much. When they’re ready, the anchovies have turned a rosy hue and smell deep and briny — but clean.

They’re rinsed, hand-boned, dried overnight on linen (you can actually see the imprint on the skin), and finally packed by hand into jars with olive oil.

Salt. Time. Skill.

That’s it.

And it makes all the difference.

A ‘vintage’ video I made of the process in 2015

Why So Many Anchovies Taste Bad

We’ve all had the unpleasant kind — overly fishy, mushy, aggressively salty. Those are usually the result of less-fresh fish or rushed curing. Some large-scale producers shorten the process or use mechanical drying methods that affect texture.

Good anchovies cost more. They should be meaty and structured. They should smell like the ocean, not like something gone wrong. And the flavor should be savory and balanced — not sharp.

Salted or Oil-Packed?

In Italy, you’ll often see giant tins of salted anchovies sitting open at the local alimentari. My mother-in-law always bought them this way. She soaked them briefly to remove excess salt, rinsed them, then gently opened them with her thumbs to remove the backbone, letting the fillets sit in olive oil before using them in this recipe.

It’s a little fiddly at first, but you get the hang of it quickly.

Oil-packed anchovies are more convenient. Look for ones packed in olive oil (not seed oils), preferably in jars you can reseal. And once opened, make sure the fillets stay submerged in oil.

Both can be excellent. The key, again, is quality.

The Bonus: Colatura

There’s one more reason Cetara is famous.

While anchovies cure in their barrels, the liquid that drains from them is carefully collected and aged. The result is colatura — a clear, amber fish sauce that’s intensely savory but clean and refined.

A few drops in pasta. Over tomatoes. In a vinaigrette. It’s powerful, and a little goes a long way.

Cooking With Anchovies

There’s a reason chefs rely on anchovies as flavor builders. During the long curing process, they become highly concentrated sources of the compounds that give us that deep savoriness — that umami that salt alone can’t deliver.

Yes, if you put one straight in your mouth, it will be intense.

But anchovies are rarely meant to be eaten alone.

They’re magic on buttered bread. With mozzarella. With potatoes. Anything rich or starchy balances their depth beautifully.

And then there’s their quiet superpower: melting into a dish. Warm them gently in olive oil and they dissolve, disappearing into sauces, vegetables, braises — leaving behind complexity without announcing themselves.

The people who say they don’t like anchovies probably don’t realize how often they’ve loved them.

The secret isn’t using more anchovies.

It’s using better ones.

The good news? You don’t have to go all the way to Cetara — or hop on a boat in the middle of the night — to pick them up. A friend of ours imports one of my favorite anchovy brands and has kindly offered Via Rosa readers a discount code. You can use it for 15% off my favorite jar of anchovies, and they’ve also included colatura and our favorite hot sauce from the same producer (Sophie is obsessed with this condiment and truly can’t live without it).

And to go with it? A few of my favorite anchovy recipes, so you can make the most of those little fish.

Notes from Via Rosa

Via Rosa — Mon, 16 Feb 2026 16:01:29 GMT

Welcome to the Via Rosa Newsletter—so glad you’re here!

Here’s a taste of the newest content we’ve been sharing on our website lately - a fresh roundup of stories, updates, and inspiration we can’t wait for you to explore.

Where to Eat and Drink in Perugia

The capital of Umbria and the largest city in the region, Perugia is totally underrated. If you ask us, it’s a great place for a city break and the perfect jumping off point to explore some of the more rural parts of the enchanting region known as Italy’s Green Heart.

Perched on a hill, Perugia has a frozen-in-time quality, as the historic center has essentially remained the same since the Middle Ages. Wandering through the city center, you can admire the Medieval architecture, then duck into the Collegio del Cambio to see beautiful frescoes by Perugino and visit the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, which contains Medieval and Renaissance art by Beato Angelico, Pinturicchio, and Perugino. It’s no wonder we chose it as our base for our week long Umbria tour.

The best reason to visit Perugia, though, is for the food

Radicchio and Pear Salad

During the quieter months of January and February, when I’m home more and keeping lunches simple, this radicchio and pear salad ends up on my table again and again. Most days I eat alone, after a walk or a trip to the market, and I love the small ritual of making exactly what I’m in the mood for. Often that means something fresh, easy to make and enjoyed without distractions.

Meet the Artisan: Licciardello Gioielli

If you’re looking for a truly unique and beautiful souvenir from your trip to Rome, you can’t go wrong with jewelry. And one of our favorite places to buy jewelry is Licciardello Gioielli, a small family-run shop in Monti. Here, master goldsmith Massimo Licciardello and his wife Cristina make jewelry collections inspired by Rome, repair and design bespoke pieces for clients, and offer a selection of jewelry by other designers with a similar ethos.

Cozy Recipes with Winter Squash

We don’t know about you, but in the depths of winter, when the days are cold and rainy, we tend to turn to comfort food, and what could be more comforting than squash? In Italy, the first squash appear on supermarket shelves, at the market and the fruttivendolo in the fall and carry through until the first peas and fava beans make their appearance, heralding the arrival of spring.

The general term for squash in Italian is zucca, but there are many regional varieties, such as zucca mantovana, zucca hokkaido, zucca delica, and even zucca butternut, not to mention pumpkin, which is a type of squash. Each one has its own unique qualities, ranging in color, flavor, and texture, but we love them all. To inspire you, we thought it would be fun to gather some cozy squash recipes from our guest hosts in addition to sharing one of our own.

Where to Eat & Drink in Turin

Turin has always felt a little quieter and more refined than other Italian cities, and its food reflects that. I’ve been coming here for years, and every time I return I’m reminded why it’s so easy to fall in love with the mix of grand boulevards, elegant piazzas, and a food culture that is comforting and deeply rooted in tradition.

These are the places I always suggest to friends visiting Turin, from classic trattorie to lively bistros, each with its own personality and a way of capturing something I love about eating in this city.

Good News — A Spot Just Opened Up!

Due to a last-minute change, we have one seat available on the following tour. We’d love to welcome you!

PUGLIA WITH SOPHIE APRIL 12-18, 2026

Via Rosa organizes small group tours which explore the culture of food in Italy. You can find our full schedule by clicking the button below:

VIA ROSA FOOD TOURS

What We Look for in Great Pasta

Via Rosa — Tue, 03 Feb 2026 16:02:57 GMT

There are very few things in life I feel comfortable declaring a favorite. Ask me about my favorite town, restaurant, or coffee maker, and I’ll almost always dodge the question. But pasta? Pasta is different. I have strong opinions, and at the very top of my list sits one brand: Faella.

If memory serves me correctly, my first encounter with Faella pasta was at a roadside shop next to a gas station in Umbria. The store specialized in products from Campania, and after stocking up on fresh mozzarella di bufala, I picked up a few packages of pasta from a brand I had never heard of. Their brightly colored logo caught my eye.

Once I got home and started making lunch, I put the pasta on to boil. Domenico walked into the kitchen and said, “What are you making? It smells delicious!” It was simply the pasta cooking in water. The aroma was intoxicating. It smelled unlike any other pasta I had had up till that point and I realized that this was something completely different.

That moment marked the beginning of my love affair with this brand of pasta, as well as the start of my education in what makes this type of pasta - artisanally made dried pasta - so completely different from the industrial pasta most people are used to.

Here’s some of what I’ve learned over the years.

There are several factors that differentiate artisanally dried pasta from the industrial process. One, unsurprisingly, is attention to ingredients - not just the flour, but also the water. Another is the production process itself. These are the major differences:

Bronze dies
Artisanally made pasta is extruded through bronze dies (rather than Teflon), which gives it a rough texture that better absorbs sauce.
Low-temperature, long drying
Artisan pasta is dried at a lower temperature over a much longer period of time. This not only improves flavor but creates a completely unique texture: firm and chewy, something never found in industrial pasta. To put it in perspective, industrial pasta may be dried in as little as 20 minutes, while artisanal pasta can take up to 48 hours.
Simple, high-quality ingredients
Artisan pasta is made with just flour and water: no colorings, preservatives, or additives. The flour is typically of very high quality, and special care is given to the water used in production.

The importance of drying

This is perhaps the most critical factor separating small artisanal producers from industrial ones. Once the pasta is formed, it is moved to drying rooms, where over the course of up to 48 hours, wind and heat gently dry it. This is not an automated process. The timing and temperature depend on the pasta shape, the quality of the flour on that particular day, and even the weather. It is up to the master pastaio to decide how to alternate air and heat, and when the pasta is ready to be packaged.

If you’ve ever wondered why it can be difficult to cook pasta perfectly al dente, this is why: the high heat used to dry industrial pasta effectively pre-cooks it, negatively affecting the final texture.

If you’re comparison shopping, industrial pasta often costs up to one-tenth of what this kind of pasta costs. The long drying time results in better flavor and texture, but it also results in a higher price. As with most handmade artisanal foods, time equals money.

But getting back to Faella: It’s one of the very best. The factory, which was founded in 1870, is located right in the town square. Sophie and I had the great opportunity to visit and see the process first hand. Sorry there is no video, or even photos of the process, since it was so steamy my lens kept fogging up! But it was an incredible thing to see and made me appreciate the pasta all the more.

Although there are old machines used to mix and extrude the pasta, what was surprising was how much is still done by hand—including weighing and sealing each and every package before it’s sent out into the world.

The good news is that you don’t have to travel all the way to Italy - or stop at a roadside shop near the highway - to try it. A friend of mine imports Faella and has kindly offered Via Rosa readers a discount code. And to go with it? Some of my favorite pasta recipes, plus a few videos.

Via Rosa Newsletter: January 2026

Via Rosa — Mon, 12 Jan 2026 18:22:39 GMT

Hello, Happy New Year, and welcome to the new Via Rosa Newsletter!

You’re receiving this newsletter because you’re already subscribed to Elizabeth’s Newsletter from Italy. This new newsletter is focused entirely on the fantastic content we’ve been publishing on the Via Rosa website.

As you may know, together with my daughters Sophie and Emma, I own and operate a food tour business here in Italy. In 2024, we launched a new and improved Via Rosa website, and a big part of that update was creating useful and fun content to help you travel better in Italy. Our Guides section is fairly self-explanatory. It’s where we share our ever-expanding list of favorite recommendations, including restaurants, hotels, and more. In the Blog, you’ll find recipes we love, along with travel tips like weekend getaways, favorite markets, and insider advice on getting around.

If you didn’t realize we were sharing all of this information on the website, you’re not alone. That’s exactly why we created this newsletter. Each month, we’ll round up our newest posts and include easy links so you can find them quickly. That way you’ll never miss an important bit of information like Panettone 101 or Where to Eat in Bari, and you can easily share it with anyone you know who’s planning a trip to Italy.

You’re currently subscribed to the free version of this newsletter. Once a month, you’ll receive an email with links to the previous month’s posts. We hope you enjoy following along.

A bonus for paying subscribers: each month we’ll feature one of the food producers or artisans we love, along with a special discount link if you’d like to support them by purchasing their products. We’re just getting started, but expect things like olive oil, handcrafted jewelry, artisanal pasta tools, beautiful ceramics, and more.

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POSTS FROM THE PAST MONTH

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Panettone

In Italy, the first panettoni (that’s the plural of panettone) start to appear on shelves in early November. By mid-December, the craze for this domed, leavened Christmas cake studded with candied fruit hits a fever pitch. Though there are plenty of regional Christmas sweets, panettone transcends borders, appearing on tables everywhere from the Dolomites in the north to Sicily in the south and even beyond Italy.

10 Must-Try Food Experiences in Italy

In 2025, Italian cooking was officially inscribed on UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage list, but here at Via Rosa we don’t need UNESCO’s recognition to know that Italian culinary traditions are worth celebrating and protecting. It’s an integral part of what we do. And though Via Rosa is led by a small team, collectively we have many decades of experience not only eating our way through Italy but also delving deeper into the country’s myriad ways of cultivating, preparing, and sharing food.

Where to Eat and Drink in Bari

Bari is the city where my father grew up, so it’s always held a special place in my life. For many travelers Bari is a stopover, the place you pass through on your way to somewhere else in Puglia. Maybe because of this, it has managed to stay wonderfully authentic.

You can the entire archive of our past posts on the blog or guides sections of our website.

Our next post, in two weeks, will feature one of our favorite artisans along with a special discount code. This feature is for paying subscribers only.

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