There are always reviews that don’t make it into my wine columns in the Globe, which is a major reason I landed here on Substack. Here is a prime time red and white to seek out for Labour Day festivities or any day ending in y.

Rustenberg Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.95 (43374)

100 per cent cabernet sauvignon, from the historic Rustenberg estate. 100 per cent aged in 225L barrels French oak barrels, 10 per cent new and 90 per cent 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th fill.

This is a fuller bodied, flavourful and fragrant expression of cabernet sauvignon, with blackcurrant, plum and red berry fruit with bay leaves, herbal and cedar accents. It is nicely balanced and harmonious, with freshness and focus adding to its immediacy and appeal. This is a prime time red wine is a great value red to drink now or hold. This has 14.17 per cent ABV and 2.2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario. 91/100

Kacaba Vineyards Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2024
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (kacaba.ca)

Aged for 17 months in barrel with weekly bâtonnage and partial malolactic fermentation.

Here is a rich and refreshing style of chardonnay that displays pear and peach flavours with butter, cream and toasted notes. There’s impressive richness and texture for a wine with such vibrant citrussy acidity (lime and lemon zest). This youthful white wine strikes a tasty middle ground between ripeness and savouriness. Stylish and ready to drink. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available direct, kacaba.ca. 91/100

If you enjoyed this article, please show your appreciation by clicking the heart icon. You could also share it to spread the word, or subscribe to receive my posts. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription.

There are always reviews that don’t make it into my wine columns in the Globe, which was one of the main reasons for publishing on Substack. This weekend’s recommendations focus on new releases appearing on the shelves at LCBO Vintages outlets and two enjoyable whites from the Okanagan. I suspect the sample of Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2022 I received was meant to be the 2023 vintage, which is part of the September 12 Vintages release. However, you won’t hear me complaining about the opportunity to check-in on a classic Niagara riesling that’s developing nicely.

Hidden Bench Estate Gamay 2024
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (20422)

100 per cent certified organic gamay from Hidden Bench’s Lincoln Lakeshore and Beamsville Bench vineyards. Fermented in concrete and aged in a mix of French oak barrels of various ages (mostly older) and stainless steel tank prior to bottling unfined and unfiltered.

This youthful gamay displays an attractive mix of red and dark fruit with white pepper and floral notes. Its vibrant yet restrained style is marked by powdery tannins, making it more of a food wine at this stage. The smart move is to tuck some bottles in the cellar to allow them to mature and become more complex and integrated. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario or $29.75 direct, hiddenbench.com. 90/100

Hidden Bench Estate Organic Riesling 2022
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $26.75 (183491)

A blend of organically grown riesling from Hidden Bench’s Locust Lane, Felseck and Rosomel vineyards. The 2023 vintage is set for release at LCBO Vintages outlets on September 12.

Hidden Bench has landed on a off-dry and distinctive style of riesling, with limey fresh character and developing waxy, earthy flavours. This is nicely concentrated with a rich texture and lingering stony/mineral finish. This has 11 per cent ABV and 12 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, hiddenbench.com 92/100

Boschendal 1685 Chenin Blanc 2024
Western Cape, South Africa $19.95 (48203)

Produced with chenin blanc from vineyards in South Africa’s Coastal Region. which includes areas including Stellenbosch, Darling and Paarl where warm temperatures are moderated by the cooling influence of the Benguela Current. This juicy, full-bodied white wine is a success, which is to say its enjoyable style is a step above simple and fruity in nature. There’s real intensity to the juicy and fleshy fruit flavours that carry through to a fresh and lingering finish. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario. 89/100

Red Rooster Pinot 3 2025
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $22 (redroosterwinery.com)

40 per cent pinot blanc, 38 per cent pinot gris, 22 per cent pinot noir, from vineyards in the south Okanagan. The Pinot Noir was made in a white wine style, with all three varieties fermented in stainless steel .

It’s nice to see Red Rooster back on track in the Okanagan, continuing to produce this unusual white wine that has long been a staple of the portfolio. The latest edition of Pinot 3 is light and refreshing, with delicate pear, apple and citrus notes. It’s mild-mannered, linear character is easy to appreciate, although it would benefit from a little more texture and charm. This has 11.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price direct, redroosterwinery.com, $19.99 in British Columbia. 87/100

Township 7 Benchmark Series Viognier 2025
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $30.97 (township7.com)

100 per cent viognier, from Raju Vineyard in Osoyoos and Fool’s Gold Vineyard in Oliver. Mostly tank with 24 per cent aged in neutral French oak to enhance texture and complexity. Vegan friendly.

If more evidence were need that Rhône white varieties perform exceptionally well in the southern Okanagan, this is it. This ripe, rich and refreshing model of viognier is a textbook example, with a honeysuckle fragrance and juicy stonefruit flavours. While not hugely complex, the style is satisfyingly vibrant and flavourful. This has 13.2 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price direct, township7.com. 90/100

Subscribe now

If you enjoyed this article, please show your appreciation by clicking the heart icon. You could also share it to spread the word, or subscribe to receive my posts. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription.

Share

The Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), an internationally recognized research and educational institute located at Brock University in St. Catharines, is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year.

I have been teaching wine appreciation classes there since 2003 and am thrilled to be leading the program’s Exploring Varietals course again, starting in September. This tasting class hasn’t been offered since the pandemic.

I inherited the wine appreciation courses from Dr. Linda Bramble, an academic, educator, certified sommelier and journalist who was one of the biggest supporters of my efforts at VINES Magazine. Peter Gamble, Niagara-based winemaker and consultant, conducted previous tasting courses at Brock prior to CCOVI’s creation. These courses helped create a vibrant and supportive wine community in the region.

CCOVI also offers certification courses from the Wine Spirit Education Trust as well as other continuing education classes.

Exploring Varietals looks at the world of wine through the lens of popular grape varieties. Each week focuses on a different variety, with an in-class tasting of wines made from that grape in Canada and around the world.

The class provides an opportunity to discuss trends and innovations in winemaking and marketing as well as the factors that influence the flavour of each samples, such as the impact of cool and warm growing seasons.

The course runs September 22 to November 10 at Inniskillin Hall, with a course fee of $399. It’s one of three required courses for CCOVI’s Professional Micro-certificate in Wine Fundamentals.

Banking a Win

Black Bank Hill winery, which has just released its fifth vintage, was one of this year’s National Wine Awards of Canada’s top-scoring producers. The Beamsville, Ont.-based wine estate was named the best small winery, producing less than 10,000 cases a year, and finished as the third best overall, among wineries of all sizes.

“These awards are one of the best venues for getting our wines out there,” said Taylor Emerson, who purchased the Beamsville farm that would become Black Bank Hill Winery in 2017.

“We think these wines are pretty good, but we’re not really great at letting the world know about that,” he continued. “We sell our wines in the tasting room one person at a time.”

Here is a gift link to read more about this year’s winners at the National Wine Awards of Canada.

Subscribe now

If you enjoyed this article, please show your appreciation by clicking the heart icon. You could also share it to spread the word, or subscribe to receive my posts. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription.

Share

There are always reviews that don’t make it into my wine columns in the Globe, which was one of the main reason for publishing on Substack. This week’s recommendations focus on three standout regional styles, including a stunning sangiovese for the cellar.

Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2022
Marlborough, New Zealand $28.95 (734681)

Family owned winery. Produced from two estate blocks, portions kept separate until blending, 11 months of aging.

This ripe and fruity pinot noir is more complex than many Marlborough expressions. Its core of red berry and cherry fruit is enhanced by cinnamon, pepper and black olive notes that add depth and interest. The fine-grained tannins and bright acidity provide structure that helps balance upfront sweet fruit. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $40 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar), $30.30 in Prince Edward Island. 90/100

Wakefield Estate Shiraz 2023
Clare Valley / Limestone Coast, South Australia $19.95 (943787)

Clare Valley (62.5 per cent) / Limestone Coast (37.5 per cent). matured in American oak for 12 months.

Checking in on Wakefield’s entry level shiraz after six months and happy to report this crowd-pleasing Australian red still checks all the boxes. Made in a medium-bodied style, with a plush texture and polished tannins contributing structure and balance, this offers nicely concentrated plum and cherry flavours with spice and chocolate notes. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia and Nova Scotia, various prices in Alberta. 89/100

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2020
Tuscany, Italy $68.95 (306852)

Col d’Orcia is one of the original Montalcino estates and operates one of the largest organic vineyards in Italy. Winemaking practices embrace large-format casks, ranging from 2,500 to 7,500 litres in size, for the extended, three-year aging of its Brunello before an additional year in bottle.

Firm but fine tannins contribute to the structure and age-worthy style of the 2020 vintage of this classic Brunello label. The warmth of the growing season contributes to the core of red berry and cherry flavours, which are rounded out by citrus peel, herb and spice notes. The ripe fruit character carries through to a gravelly finish. It’s drinking nicely now, but would benefit from more time in the cellar. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2038. Available at the above price in Ontario, $75.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $66.50 in Quebec. 95/100

Subscribe now

If you enjoyed this article, please show your appreciation by clicking the heart icon. You could also share it to spread the word, or subscribe to receive my posts. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription.

Share

In July, I was asked to host a panel tasting focused on Canadian made sparkling wine at this year’s International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C). The session was called Pop Quiz: Sparkling Edition, which was developed by the i4C’s education panel. They selected the nine wines (logistical issues meant one didn’t arrive on time) and suggested attendees taste sets of wine blind that would illustrate the effects of extended lees aging and the differences in character between sparkling wines made from chardonnay alone and those made by blending pinot noir and chardonnay.

It was a fun but ambitious concept to tackle in 90 minutes. My role was largely to keep an eye on the time and encourage conversation between the winemakers whose wines were being tasted.

To open the session, I thought it important to talk about the evolution of sparkling wine in Canada, sharing significant milestones, important producers and some people who helped drive the category forward. The problem is that I’m terrible at reading from prepared notes. So that morning I wrote a brief outline of what I wanted to say to help me focus my thoughts. At the podium, I spoke off the cuff and hoped for the best.

You can read the talking points I jotted down below. An article about the session, published online by Sarah Neish (editor of the UK-based trade publication, The Drinks Business) gives you an idea of where the conversation actually went.

Is Canada a great sparkling wine nation?

We have the cool climate and grape varieties necessary for producing exceptional sparkling wine, as well as other natural factors. However, these natural resources are merely the foundation. Producing top quality sparkling wine is technically complicated and expensive.

We’re a work in progress, a wave about to crest. It’s only now that we are starting to amass the necessary investment and experience to bridge the gap between terroir, science and chemistry and produce consistently high quality fizz. Next step, the great leap forward… This tasting comes at an apropos moment.

The first serious efforts to produce sparkling wine using the traditional (bottle fermented) method in Ontario were undertaken by Karl Podamer, a Hungarian native who had trained in France. He received his manufacturer’s permit from the Ontario government in 1973. His vision for the Beamsville-based Podarner Champagne Company Ltd., was different from the estate winery concept of Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, which got its start the following year.

Podamer sold his business to Magnotta in 1993, which continues to operate out of the Ontario Street facility.

Canada’s grape and wine industry came further faster by successfully adopting and adapting best practices from around the world. The same thing happened with sparkling wine, however, growth was slower due to the added expense of equipment and limited opportunities for knowledge transfer.

Hillebrand Estates launched its sparkling wine program in the late 1980s, with the release of Meunier, the pre-cursor to its popular Trius Brut label. (N.B. Château des Charmes was also making traditional method bubbly.) Around the same time, Sumac Ridge’s Stellar’s Jay Cuvée, Summerhill Cipes Brut and Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut were created in the Okanagan.

Production volumes and the number of labels have increased and sparkling has become a significant focus for specialist producers, including Benjamin Bridge and Blomidon in Nova Scotia, Hinterland Wine Company and York Cellars in Ontario and Bella Wines and Lightning Rock in the Okanagan.

Independent businesses such as the Niagara Sparkling Wine Service (formerly Millesime) have helped wineries to introduce and expand sparkling wine production by offering consulting and custom processing services, including riddling and disgorging. This allowed many wineries get their bubble on.

Belinda Kemp’s tenure as senior scientist in oenology at Brock’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI) between 2013 and 2023, helped facilitate knowledge transfer.

She started Fizz Club as a networking group for winemakers based on tasting, sharing and exchanging best practices at all stages of production. Membership in the group was opened to vintners across the country, resulting in an overall quality of sparkling wines from coast to coast. Her successor, Jennifer Kelly, carries on those efforts.

Interest and expertise levels have never been higher. Watch this space.

Subscribe now

If you enjoyed this article, please take a moment to comment, like, share and subscribe. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

There are always reviews that don’t make it into my wine columns in the Globe, which was one of the main reason for launching this platform earlier in the year. This Wednesday Wines roundup includes two bottles that were omitted due to availability and timing issues. The third bottle was featured recently but has since gone on sale in Ontario. I’m sharing it again here to draw attention to a racy and pure expression of verdejo that’s currently under $12 at LCBO outlets.

Santadi Villa Solais Vermentino di Sardegna 2024
Sardinia, Italy $21.95 (121129)

I seldom pass up an opportunity to enjoy the light and refreshing qualities of a well-made Vermentino di Sardegna, and am delighted to recommend this juicy and zesty expression, which hit the shelves at LCBO Vintages’ outlets at just the right time (as part of the July 18 release). Its core of apricot and white peach flavours is complemented by bold citrus (lime and grapefruit) and discreet floral and almond accents. Its fresh, focused style makes it an extremely useful wine to enjoy its own or with a meal. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta. 90/100

Peninsula Ridge Wismer Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2025
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.45 (peninsularidge.com)

I’ll never forget tasting the first vintage of this wine straight from the tank before it was bottled. That momentous wine, made by Jean-Pierre Colas from grapes harvested from the Wismer family’s Lakeview vineyard in 2000, marked a turning point for sauvignon blanc in Ontario. Its pungent, flavourful and beautifully refreshing style is still in evidence with the release of the 2025. Textbook tropical fruit, tangy citrus and cut grass notes burst forth from the glass. The wine’s style is precise and pure, thanks to its lovely balanced backbone of juicy acidity. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, peninsularidge.com 90/100

Caminos del Puerto Rueda Verdejo 2024
Rueda, Spain $13.75 (44525)

French winemaker François Lurton was one of the first to recognize the global potential of the verdejo grape in Spain’s Rueda region. He established an estate in La Seca in 1992. His Camino del Puerto label is an excellent introduction to the grape and the region, displaying the classic characteristics of verdejo in its dry and distinctive style. This racy and pure wine offers a mix of fennel, lemon and wet stone flavours. It is a lighter white wine with impressive texture and length. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario ($11.75 until August 16), $14.15 in Quebec, $19.30 in New Brunswick, $17.98 in Nova Scotia. 90/100

If you enjoyed this article, please take a moment to comment, like, share and subscribe. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

The sudden passing of Matthew Jukes has left many in the wine world reeling. The influential British wine communicator and critic, who was celebrating his 40th year in the industry, suffered a heart attack August 6 while on holiday in Portugal’s Algarve region with his family. He was 58.

As a writer and broadcaster, Jukes harnessed his profound knowledge of wine and food, wicked humour and joie de vivre to produce engaging reviews, reports and commentary. He had a genuine enthusiasm for sharing information about the wines that he loved, and would explain precisely in his write-ups how they met his strict quality and deliciousness standards.

2023 Tesco Finest Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon California (£16.50) is a bonfire-night-tinged blackcurrant bomb, and yet it doesn’t overstep the mark in terms of oak or alcohol, making it beautifully luxurious at a killer price. Matthew Jukes, MoneyWeek, published August 7

When asked to explain his motivation for writing to a consumer audience, Jukes would explain he wasn’t teaching them how to save their money, he was teaching them how to spend their money.

During my first trips to Cape Wine, South Africa’s most important wine trade fair, Jukes helped me navigate the expansive tasting room, recommending wines and producers not to be missed. His professional demeanour in the hall provided further lessons. He arrived early, kept his head down, and tasted his way through the room, gaining insights from the winemakers pouring their wines.

Small talk and socializing could wait.

It was always a pleasure when our paths crossed over the years. His larger-than-life personality was impossible to overlook. I’ll never forget the way he bounded into rooms or his enthusiastic bear hugs.

Jukes was a vocal advocate for the South African industry as it experienced rapid growth and improvement in the early 2000s. He is famously credited with coining the cheeky nickname for Ken Forrester’s The FMC Chenin Blanc.

The way Forrester remembers it, Jukes returned to his table at a tasting and called out for another taste of that “F(rigg)ing Magic Chenin.”

Meanwhile, Jukes insists that was Forrester’s response when asked what FMC stood for while they were tasting a sample of the inaugural 2001 vintage.

Australian wines were another of his unrelenting passions. His annual selection of the 100 Best Australian Wines available in the UK inspired well-attended roadshow tastings across the country each year.

Jukes and British wine writer and television host Tyson Stelzer created the Great Australia Red competition in 2006, a tasting challenge to celebrate the best cabernet and shiraz blends made Down Under.

He had just rejoined his family in Europe after judging at the Sydney Royal Wine Show last week.

The last time we spoke was for a virtual tasting of Jukes Cordialities, when his range non-alcoholic “wine replacements” was launched in Canada in 2022. We discussed the inspiration for the product line and tasted through the selection. Afterwards, we caught each other up on family and personal events, signing off with hopes to see each other soon.

He leaves behind his wife, Amelia, and their children, Isadora, Elspeth, Rollo and Victor.

Saturday’s Sip

Black Bank Hill Liberté 2023
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $50 (blackbankhill.com)

A blend of estate grown grapes, 50 per cent viognier, 25 per cent marsanne and 25 per cent roussanne. Each variety was hand-harvested, fermented using wild/ambient yeasts in (mostly) neutral French oak barrels and aged on lees for 20 months before blending and bottling. 97 cases.

This is a rich and rewarding white blend built on a core of sumptuous fruit flavours (peach, pear, melon, Meyer lemon), with an expressive, balanced character that’s downright delicious. This full-bodied wine is satisfying and easy to drink straightaway, thanks to its structure and freshness. However, my instincts tell me this has potential to mature gracefully if given the chance. I’m not sure I could resist the temptation whenever I spotted it on the rack, however. This has 14.2 per cent ABV and 3.7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. (93/100)

Subscribe now

If you enjoyed this article, please take a moment to comment, like, share and subscribe. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

The National Wine Awards of Canada bases its Winery of the Year rankings on the top five scores of each producer, combined with the weighted value of their medals. In categories where fewer medals are awarded, more value is assigned. Judging took place in June in Niagara. I was one of 21 panelists who tasted through 1,800+ submissions from 250 wineries. Sincere congratulations to all of the winners. This is a serious competition that’s conducted with the utmost rigour and professionalism. Full results are available via winealign.com

Tawse Winery | Winery of the Year
Vineland, Ontario | Established 2001

Tawse Winery’s fifth Winery of the Year win at the National Wine Awards of Canada, coming as it does amidst its 25th anniversary celebrations, feels like the planets have aligned. This year’s award follows victories in 2016, as well as three consecutive awards in 2010, 2011 and 2012. Its strong showing was based largely on the accolades received by a trio of chardonnays from the 2023 vintage, including a platinum medal for the Estate Chardonnay, which sold for $29.95. The team led by head winemaker Jessica Otting and vineyard manager Augusta Van Muyen also drew praise for the 2024 Quarry Road Riesling and a special edition sparkling wine released for Tawse’s 25th Anniversary as well as a slew of silver and bronze medals for its extensive portfolio. tawsewinery.ca

Christopher Waters & Wine

Centre of Gravity

Moray Tawse is the subject of this week’s Globe and Mail wine column. Our hour-long interview, prompted by the upcoming 25th anniversary of Tawse Winery in Vineland, Ontario, provided the basis for what I hope is an insightful Q&A. (Here’s a gift link, you can tell me if I hit the mark…

Read more

5 months ago · 6 likes · 3 comments · Christopher Waters

Fielding Estate Winery | Runner-Up
Beamsville, Ontario | Established 2005

Fielding opened its doors in the same year as ambitious, terroir-focused Niagara-based wineries, Hidden Bench and Stratus, but has always managed to carve out its own niche thanks to its welcoming hospitality and its wines, which are accessible at every price point. Curtis and Heidi Fielding, a husband-and-wife team, drew on their experience of working at Vineland Estates and Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate to open the Beamsville winery, which was founded by Curtis’ parents, Marg and Ken Fielding. The final piece of the award-winning puzzle came with the addition of winemaker Richie Roberts in 2007. Fielding’s top-scoring wines included a platinum medal for the non-vintage sparkling rose and gold medals for the 2024 Rockpile Pinot Noir, 2023 Estate Riesling and under $20 reds, 2024 Fireside Red and 2024 Red Conception. fieldingwines.com

Christopher Waters & Wine

Wine Wednesday

Family owned and operated Fielding Estate Winery celebrated its 20th anniversary last year. The Beamsville-based winery has become a model of consistency since Richie Roberts took over the cellar in 2007, thanks in part to his strong grasp of Niagara’s core varieties: riesling, chardonnay and cabernet franc…

Read more

6 months ago · 4 likes · 3 comments · Christopher Waters

Black Bank Hill | Best Performing Small Winery and Third Place Overall
Beamsville, Ontario | Established 2017

Black Bank Hill has evolved quickly from an abandoned orchard in 2017 to a celebrated boutique winery. It was recently named best performing small winery at the recent Nationals competition. While earlier vintages were made with purchased grapes from Wismer Vineyard and produced at Cloudsley Cellars, also in Vineland, the winery’s true identity began to take shape with the release of wines from the 2022 vintage, all produced with estate-grown grapes. The 20-acre property boasts a surprising and diverse range of grape varieties, including cabernet franc, chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah. (There are also smaller plantings of Rhône white varieties, marsanne, roussanne and viognier, as well as merlot, pinot gris and gewurztraminer.) Equally unexpected is the fact that the winery’s 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon was the top-rated wine of winemaker Jonathan McLean’s nine entries. Late ripening cabernet sauvignon is often criticized, even (especially?) by those in the industry, for underperforming in Niagara vineyards. This one is unabashedly savoury but with richness, depth and concentration that was rewarded by judges. Black Bank Hill’s cabernet franc, chardonnay, pinot noir and Égalité cabernet-merlot blend, also coming from the 2023 vintage, received gold medals, with average scores of 91 points or higher from judges. blackbankhill.com

If you enjoyed this article, please take a moment to comment, like, share and subscribe. If you found the information valuable, kindly consider taking out a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

There were some samples to review packed in the box of wine that came to the cottage for our family vacation. Here are three bottles that stood out, starting with a cheap and cheerful chenin from South Africa’s Bruce Jack Wines.

Far From The Crowd Chenin Blanc 2025
Western Cape, South Africa $12.60 (48730)

South African winemaker Bruce Jack produces dozens of brands and hundreds of wines each vintage. Far from the Crowd is a new (to me, at least) label featuring a rosé, syrah and this chenin. It’s an affordable, tank fermented white with a focused citrus-y character that gains some texture from aging on the lees (the dead yeast cells left over after fermentation.) The style is more vibrant than luscious, with refreshing citrus and green pineapple flavours. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price ($10.60 until August 16.) 88/100

Ailm Chenin Blanc 2025
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $38 (ailmestate.com)

Ailm is a new winery operated in Kelowna by the Stewart family, owners of Quails’ Gate (established in 1989) in the Okanagan and Valley of the Moon and Lake Sonoma Winery in California. Its portfolio is a collection of sparkling and still wines produced vineyards owned by the family. This rich and refreshing expression of Chenin Blanc is a blend of tank and barrel fermented (35 per cent, neutral wood.) The style works thanks to terrific fruit intensity (mix of citrus and tropical) and texture. Vibrant acidity keeps everything focused. An impressive start. 92/100

Painted Rock Estate Merlot 2022
Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley $49.99 (paintedrock.ca)

Produced from four blocks of merlot grapes, harvested individually and produced in small batches. Aged 18 months in French oak (30 per cent new). Bottled unfiltered.

Painted Rock’s 100 per cent Merlot has consistently been a stand out from the Skinner family’s estate overlooking Skaha Lake. The 2022 captures the potential of the exceptional growing conditions, producing a wine with remarkable fruit purity (juicy berry and cherry fruit) and secondary, savoury oak-derived flavours. The style is full-bodied, with satisfying structure and length, and tremendous aging potential. This has 14.6 per cent ABV and 2.7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. 93/100

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share Christopher Waters & Wine

I always enjoyed inviting local winemakers to the tasting classes I taught at Brock University, which were based on the wines made in Ontario. Each week focused on a different grape variety or style, and I would ask a specialist to share their insights about working in the vineyard and cellar to help guide the tasting.

The so-called house guests added tremendous value to these wine appreciation classes, which were part of the curriculum for students studying at the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), but open to members of the local community as a continuing education offering.

Ensuring the tasting and conversation were worthwhile for both CCOVI students, who wanted to delve deep into grape growing and winemaking practices, and casual consumers, some of whom were just getting into wine, was always challenging.

As each semester progressed, the conversations would flow more freely. The wine students would be reminded about the pleasure principle of wine. Consumers came to appreciate how much science, craft and intention was responsible for the flavours they enjoy their glass.

Houses guests included Rob Power and Yvonne Irvine (Creekside), Derek Barnett (Lailey), Ilia Suter (Cave Spring), Emma Garner (Thirty Bench/Trius) and Darryl Brooker (Flat Rock/Hillebrand/Trius.)

My Wines of Ontario course was a huge success right up to the Covid-19 shutdown, after which the course was moved online.

I was reminded of the benefit those house guests yesterday when Giacomo Boscaini, export manager for Masi Agricola, joined a WSET Diploma class I was teaching. The weekend-long intensive course largely focused on wine regions of France to help prepare students for their arduous Still Wines of the World (D3) exam in October. (The chance to have an expert whose family had been making wine in Valpolicella for more than 250 years was worthy of a detour.)

These Diploma candidates had been listening to me for two days when Boscaini, one of seven members of his family involved in the operation, arrived Sunday afternoon to close out the session.

It was a great experience for the WSET Diploma candidates who were able to gain a deeper understanding of the Amarone winemaking process and taste four spectacular examples, including a comparison of the current release of the popular Costasera Amarone Classico label with one from the 2007 vintage and two single vineyard expressions.

A big takeaway for me was Boscaini’s blind tasting tip: “I need to feel that cherry jam, otherwise it’s not Amarone.” (He had a lot more to say, but I’m saving other aspects of his visit and our ensuring interview for a Globe and Mail feature later in the year.)

As a wine journalist I often cross paths with winemakers and winery principals. But many sommeliers, members of the trade and consumers don’t enjoy the same access. The connection can be special. It makes the process, practice and product more meaningful because it’s grounded in human terms.

Like other members of his family, Boscaini has travelled extensively across Canada. He’s even become an honorary Newfoundlander after being “Screeched In,” a welcoming ritual for visitors (aka “come-from-aways”) to this country’s easternmost province that involves drinking a shot of Screech rum and kissing a codfish.

Canada is Masi’s No.1 export market because the family has made the effort. They continue to share their wines and stories with buyers and sommeliers as well as students and consumers from coast to coast. As a result, the quality of their wine is even easier to appreciate because there’s a personal connection.

Subscribe now

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

When it comes to improving wine-tasting skills, I’ve long been an advocate of tasting multiple wines to see how they compare and contrast.

I learned this practice from the legendary French winemaker Jean “Johnny” Hugel, who is fondly remembered for the quality of his wines and his oft-quoted belief that “People who like wine are nicer people than those who do not like wine.”

During a visit to the Hugel family’s winery in 2001, Johnny was holding court behind the tasting bar when he discovered a group of Canadian wine writers were visiting the Alsace region of France for the first time.

He placed two wine glasses in front of each and proceeded to pour different samples. “You won’t learn about what makes these wines special by tasting them on their own,” he explained.

We were presented with a dizzying array of wines to showcase the differences between the same grape variety grown in different vineyards, the same grape variety from the same vineyard harvested at different times and finally, the same wine from different vintages.

It was a masterclass, and it remains one of my favourite winery visits to this day. I drank in how this family winery, established in 1639, approached winemaking and vineyard management.

I’ve used the same tasting approach for wine appreciation classes and seminars ever since. It enables participants to compare two samples, examining the aromas and flavours, while gauging how they are similar or different. With a single glass, a novice taster might observe how it “smells like white wine…” But faced with two glasses that smell like white wine, what elements makes them similar or different?

It’s a great way for newcomers to wine to learn how they interpret different aromas and flavours and discover the styles of wine they prefer.

It’s equally useful for professional students who are looking to glean more specific information when tasting, such as the grape variety or varieties used to create the wine they’re tasting or the region in which the wine was made.

Saturday Sip

Rustenberg Wild Ferment Unwooded Chardonnay 2024
South Africa $18.95 (48202)

‘No wood, no good’ was a catchphrase coined by Wolf Blass winemaker John Glaetzer, during the 1970s. Things were different back in the day, especially in Australia. Fashion constantly evolves in winemaking circles, as it does everywhere else. Consumer and industry tastes in barrel-fermented and -aged styles of wine are constantly changing.

Nearly two decades ago, Rustenberg introduced an unoaked chardonnay to its portfolio. It was to add a different personality to the toasting and savoury barrel-fermented labels, including the flagship Five Soldiers Chardonnay. Even without the effect of wood maturation, the 2024 vintage offers upfront spicy and toasty complexity as part of its ripe, creamy and developing character. This has a generous and full-bodied style that gives it mass appeal. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. (89/100)

Subscribe now

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

Valentin Leflaive CV 19 30 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Champagne, France $86.95 (50769)

Valentin Lefalive is named for the son of Burgundy wine grower, Olivier Leflaive, who started production in Champagne in 2015. The first number represents the vintage of the base wine (2019) and the second number suggests the dosage in 0.1 g/l.

This is a rich and rewarding style of Champagne, made from chardonnay from older vines in Premier and Grand Cru villages. The aroma suggests an inviting mix of nutty, bready and fruity (cooked and dried) notes, which replay on a palate that’s freshened by juicy, citrussy acidity. This dry Champagne is bright and balanced, and not austere at all. It’s flavourful, with an appealing texture, depth and length. Great value. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 5 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario. (94/100)

Moon Struck

It’s always exciting to receive samples from Moon Curser, a Osoyoos-based winery which produces a wide range of wines from various varieties, including some that are less common in the Okanagan, such as Carmenère, Dolcetto and Tannat. The current heat and humidity in southern Ontario inspired me to select this trio of white wines made from Rhône varieties to sample. The Okanagan Valley has a winning way with Rhône style wines.

Moon Curser Marsanne 2025
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $26.99 (mooncurser.com)

Grapes grown at the Home Vineyard on the Osoyoos East Bench, first planted in 2004. Tank fermented and aged.

This has convincing and refreshing Marsanne character, offering a mix of stone fruit, floral and herbal flavours. It’s generous and creamy texture is underpinned by refreshing acidity, which adds to the appeal. Good length and focus. Will be interesting to see how it develops in bottle. This has 13.8 per cent ABV and 2.6 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. 151 cases. Drink now to 2032. Available direct. (92/100)

Moon Curser Roussanne Marsanne 2025
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $28.99 (mooncurser.com)

79 per cent Roussanne and 31 per cent Marsanne, from the Home and Stubbs vineyards on the Osoyoos East Bench. Tank fermented and aged.

This youthful white blend is made in an expressive and enjoyable style, with flavours suggesting a mix of tropical, peach and citrus fruit with earthy and nutty notes. It’s full-bodied character is nicely balanced, with juicy flavours that linger on the finish. This has 13.8 per cent ABV and 2.7 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. 279 cases. Drink now to 2030. Available direct. (91/100)

Moon Curser Viognier 2025
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25.99 (mooncurser.com)

Grapes grown at the Home Vineyard on the Osoyoos East Bench. Tank fermented and aged.

This Viognier has a greener edge that is more refreshing than the variety’s more commonly expressed opulent character. Its pleasing mix of floral and fruity aromas and flavours — leaning more towards citrus than textbook peach or tropical fruits — makes this a refreshing and enjoyable white wine, especially when consumed young. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2.2 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. 421 cases. Drink now to 2028. (90/100)

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription (currently 33% off.) Cheers!

It’s a big day for Canada and soccer as the national squad continues its historic run with a Round of 16 match against the formidable team from Morocco. The national men’s soccer team’s success has sparked an unprecedented rise in attention, with many new fans now taking an interest in the game.

Regardless of the outcome of today’s 1 p.m. game in Houston, Canada’s World Cup campaign has been a resounding success. Groundbreaking victories against Qatar and South Africa will leave a lasting mark on Canadian sporting history. Meanwhile, watching the game might finally help Canadian hockey fans to understand the ‘mysterious’ offside and stoppage time rules of soccer.

Saturday Sip

Taittinger FIFA 2026 Special Edition Brut Réserve Champagne
Champagne, France $129.95 (49909)

Taittinger created this commemorative bottle of Brut Champagne Réserve to celebrate its sponsorship of the FIFA World Cup. This multi-vintage blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier accounts for 85 per cent of Taittinger’s production. Its style is easy-going and delicate, with satisfying citrus and ripe apple fruit enhanced by bready and chalky notes. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 9 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $109.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $109.49 in New Brunswick. (90/100)

Subscribe now

Share

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription (currently 33% off.) Cheers!

My eyes opened to the world of wine while working at Hillebrand Estates Winery 37 years ago. At that time, Niagara was shifting its focus toward quality wine production due to the spectre of the North American Free Trade Agreement, and Hillebrand was committed to training its staff through weekly comparative tastings and educational seminars.

In the summer of 1988, Ontario wineries established the framework for the Vintners’ Quality Alliance (VQA), which was later regulated by provincial law (through the VQA Act of 1999). These regulations helped enshrine production standards and distinguish regional appellations, guaranteeing consumers the authenticity of origin.

That same summer, winemaker Rich Arnold and tour co-ordinator Susan French from Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa spent four days at Hillebrand (now known as Trius Winery), sharing their knowledge of wine education and guest experience.

The husband-and-wife team presented a slideshow to introduce the winery’s operations. As they clicked through photographs of vineyards and the winery facility, it became clear what was happening in Niagara was just a drop in the fermentation tank compared to more established regions.

During the session, French talked about her role as a wine writer, which was the first time I’d heard of the occupation. In an instant, it was my dream job.

Another decade would pass before I started writing about wine. I had to create a publication to do so, VINES Magazine, which launched in November 1998. Walter Sendzik and I created the publication to promote wine appreciation and celebrate changes happening in Canadian vineyards. Initially, we focused exclusively on Canadian wines before branching out to international wines available to Canadian consumers.

My writing took on other forms. In May 2000, a weekly wine column called Waters & Wine debuted in The St. Catharines Standard. The first article celebrated the exuberant character of gewürztraminer. The column was later syndicated to newspapers across the ever-changing corporate landscape of the Southam, Hollinger, Osprey, and finally Postmedia chains.

Postmedia was also the final owner of VINES, which closed down alongside my wine column in the summer of 2019. Waters on Wine first appeared in The Globe and Mail in October of that year, and the reviews and commentary just kept on coming.

Recent Stories [Free to read and share]

Anselmo Mendes, the Portuguese winemaker known as Mr. Alvarinho, has a close relationship with the white wine grape, but not an exclusive one. It has proven itself to be the best variety for his native Monçao and Melgaço region, where his Quinta de Torre property has the largest single planting of alvarinho in Portugal (50 hectares), producing a variety of styles from fresh and fruity to oak aged and complex. He also has introduced distinctive sparkling and so-called orange (skin-contact) wines.

However, this hasn’t stopped Mendes from experimenting with different red and white wine varieties, including cainho branco, fiano and riesling as well as nebbiolo and pinot noir, in search of star potential. In a region where the grape harvest begins in the last week of August rather than on Sept. 20 as it did five years ago, there is no guarantee alvarinho will still be the best suited grape for this warm and dry region in 20 years’ time. (Gift Link)

Fresh whites and rosés from the 2025 harvest are in plentiful supply as Canadian winemakers stock their shelves in anticipation for the tourist season. Visitors can also anticipate the arrival of premium selections on store shelves following an extended period of aging in the cellar.

This new batch of bottles is released at a time when Canadian wines continue to enjoy commercial advantages in the absence of popular American brands. Wine drinkers continue to embrace local wines like never before, particularly those that are reasonably priced and suitable for a wide variety of occasions. Consumers in B.C. are eager to see how the vineyards have recovered after the lost 2024 vintage in most of the province’s vineyards (but not on Vancouver Island). (Gift link)

The increased opportunity to dine and picnic outdoors in June adds new dimensions to shopping for wine. It is worth considering sparkling and rosé wines, as well as the usual white and red options as summer approaches.

This week’s recommendations include top-quality sparkling wines from Franciacorta and South Africa, produced by Ca’ del Bosco and Krone. There also are barbecue-friendly red wines from South American producers Errázuriz and Garzón. (Gift Link)

Subscribe now

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription (currently 33% off for Canada Day.) Cheers!

As anticipated, tickets for the August open house celebrating The Farm’s new releases were snapped up in minutes. The Neudorf family’s annual party is an established, main event in the Niagara wine calendar. Nevertheless, if you were unable to secure a spot for the family’s fete, you can order their exclusive wines online until June 29. For more information, visit thefarmwines.ca.

The Farm White Label Pinot Noir 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $44 (thefarmwines.ca)

The White Label Pinot Noir is usually a single vineyard selection from the Neudorf family’s vineyard, which was established in 2000 and has been cultivated using organic farming practices. The 2023 vintage is introduced as a blend of the best barrels from the cellar, featuring wines from top sites in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. Wild fermented with 20 per cent whole clusters. Aged in French oak barrels, including 10 per cent new oak.

This dramatic expression of Niagara pinot highlights the fragrance and perfume of the variety. It has a distinctive aroma, suggesting a heady mix of red fruits (currants and Morello cherries) with beetroot, smoke and floral accents. The flavours have a concentrated sweet/tart character that’s balanced by peppery spice and juicy acidity. Its open-knit and soft texture carries to a refreshing, complex finish that lingers. This is a classically made Niagara, which has the potential to develop in bottle. You can drink it now, but it has the stuffing to improve with age. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 1.38 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. (92/100)

The Farm Black Label Pinot Noir 2024
West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula $28 (thefarmwines.ca)

A blend of pinot noir from Mayfield vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench and Paragon Vineyard in the Creek Shores sub-appellation. Hand-picked grapes with each lot fermented separately and aged in 228-liter French oak barriques for 16 months. Bottled unfiltered.

The 2024 vintage of the Black Label pinot noir offers a satisfying mix of juicy, concentrated fruit complemented by fragrant herbal and savoury characteristics. It’s medium-bodied and well-balanced, with a generous personality based on focused fruit flavours, brightness and texture. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 1.28 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. (91/100)

The Farm Poolhouse Rosé 2025
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $24 (thefarmwines.ca)

Produced with 100 per cent gamay grown in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. The harvested grapes macerated on skins for five hours before pressing and fermentation in stainless.

This is an effective and enjoyable rosé, thanks to its captivating sweet and sour character. Although it is referred to as “bone dry,” this term may be misleading. The wine has juicy cherry and zesty citrus notes that combine to create a mouth-watering experience. This has 13 per cent ABV and 0.19 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. (90/100)

The Farm Chardonnay 2024
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $28 (thefarmwines.ca)

Made from grapes harvested from the Grimsby Hillside vineyard in Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation.Hand-picked grapes, whole cluster pressed before spontaneously fermentation in French oak puncheons and stainless steel. The wine underwent partial malolactic fermentation to retain acidity and aged on lees for 14 months before blending.

This expressive Niagara chardonnay makes the most of its bright and balanced profile. It is pure and intense, with a lemony character complemented by a rich texture and chalky minerality. The refreshing and lingering finish adds to the enjoyment. This has 13 per cent ABV and 0.11 g/litre r.s. Drink now-2030. (91/100)

Subscribe now

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

We was just little, itty-bitty little people, in our little tiny corner, ‘til the one day the Warner Brothers came to town…
One Day the Warner Re-Mastered, Al Tuck (Youth Club Records)

American wine critic James Suckling, who is considered one of the most influential wine reviewers in the world, attracted a lot of attention earlier this month as he tasted his way through the Okanagan Valley.

Since leaving Wine Spectator in 2010, Suckling has become internationally renowned in his own right. His self-financed trip to British Columbia didn’t fly under the radar.

Every step or social media post along the way received likes and comments and inspired a lot of behind-the-screens chatter. Cynics wondered what the fuss was, while Ontario winemakers dreamed about the possibilities of welcoming Suckling to their vineyards.

Now that Suckling has published his extensive report, including tasting notes from visits to 1 Mill Road, Blue Mountain, Le Vieux Pin, Phantom Creek, Mission Hill, Martin’s Lane and others, that commentary is sure to increase. The report card is looking good, with plenty of 90-plus scores.

You can read the report here and get caught up in the excitement.

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

I have just received a sample of Hidden Bench’s Fumé Blanc, which seems like a twist of fate, given that I have just written about how revolutionary this wine’s debut vintage was.

This barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc blend has consistently been a favourite. It tastes best when the weather is cooler, but I’d never turn down a glass, whatever the weather. (Before the grapes from Rosomel Vineyard went to Hidden Bench, Brian Schmidt, the winemaker at Vineland Estates, was the happy recipient, creating a stellar oak aged white blend from the 2002 vintage.)

The 2024 model has a streamlined, pungent and polished character, offering a heady perfume and satisfying depth of flavour. There is a clear sense of the variety as part of a well-rounded wine with ripe fruit, a rich texture and a long finish. The flavours are less concentrated than in some previous years, but they linger.

Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2024
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (68825)

Roman Prydatkewycz planted the 23-acre Rosomel vineyard on the Beamsville Bench in 1976. Rosomel is a combination of his, his wife Sophie’s and their daughter Melanie’s first names. The property was sold to Hidden Bench in 2004. It is the source of their flagship red and white blends, La Brunante and Nuit Blanche and other single-vineyard releases.

As a big fan of barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc, I really appreciate this expressive and intense example from Niagara’s Hidden Bench. It has an appealing blend of citrus, apple and tropical fruit flavours, as well as toasty and stony notes. It’s refreshing and nicely structured, with a satisfying texture and length. Good value. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2031. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, hiddenbench.com (93/100)

Upcoming Releases

Chardonnay steps into the spotlight at LCBO Vintages outlets in July, ahead of the annual Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara. Tickets and information about this year’s event are available here.

Hidden Bench Béton Chardonnay 2024
West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (45618)

Certified organic by Procert. Fermented naturally (wild ferment) in concrete, aged in concrete and on its lees, and stainless steel before being bottled unfiltered in April 2026.

Béton is a serious unoaked chardonnay produced by the winemaking team at Hidden Bench. It is made in a broad and fleshy style with a pleasant texture and freshness. There’s a winning mix of fruity, savoury and saline flavours that make this stand out. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, hiddenbench.com (90/100)

Small Wonder Landscape Chardonnay 2024
Tasmania, Australia $28.95 (50127)

A blend of Chardonnay clones and vines of various ages from the estate’s vineyards in the Tamar and Coal River valleys. Barrel fermented and aged in 10 per cent new French oak barrels for 10 months.

Small Wonder’s Landscape label Chardonnay is a refreshing and rich style with a mouth-watering mix of popcorn, tart pineapple, green apple and lime flavours. It is made in vibrant style, based on balanced acidity (zesty but not austere) that carries through to the wet stone and chalky finish. This has 13 per cent ABV and 0 g/litre r.s. Vegan-friendly. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario. (91/100)

Subscribe now

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

Earlier this week, I was fortunate enough to be part of a tasting panel at the National Wine Awards of Canada alongside Evan Goldstein, a Master Sommelier from California. He was the youngest person to achieve this accolade in 1987, at the age of 26, and is also a contributing editor to the Oxford Companion to Wine.

Goldstein’s interest in wine developed through his work in the kitchens of Restaurant Le Saintongeais and the Hôtel Lancaster in Paris, the Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley and Chez Panisse Café in Berkeley, California. He then shifted his focus to wine, opening Square One with his mother, the chef and author Joyce Goldstein, in 1984.

Thanks to his culinary interests, he has a keen sense of aromas and flavours. His tasting notes cover a wider range of herbs, spices and descriptors than most.

During our discussion of a particular wine, Goldstein drew a distinction between a wine being ‘correct’ and ‘successful.’ A correct wine might score a bronze medal in competition. A successful wine climbs higher on the podium.

For example, a correct Pinot Noir is technically flawless, balanced and true to its variety. By contrast, a successful Pinot Noir displays the characteristics of the grape variety, while offering an appealing flavour and complex character that provides a memorable tasting experience.

This isn’t a revolutionary concept, but as someone who often teaches introductory wine appreciation courses, I found this to be a concise and straightforward way of conveying the different personalities of wine.

Sunday Sip

Vincent Remondière Morgon 2023
Beaujolais, Burgundy, France $22.95 (48638)

Here’s a ‘successful’ red from the Morgon appellation in Burgundy. Made with the Gamay grape, this shows developing flavours that suggest a mix of red fruit accented with meaty, ferrous (bloody) and peppery notes as part of its rounded and refreshing character. Nice focus and potential for aging. Good value. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price in Ontario. (91/100)

Share

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Nineteen years ago, I judged what are now known as the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada for the first time. I was part of the 2007 competition with Niagara-based sommelier James Treadwell and we recognized one of our favourite local wines, the debut vintage of Hidden Bench Nuit Blanche Rosomel Vineyard, as one of the samples being tasted blind.

We pushed hard for that rich and rewarding sauvignon blanc and semillon blend to get up on the podium. It ended up being named the White Wine of the Year.

This week I was back in the judging pool, tasting alongside 20 other judges over the course of five days. We tasted our way through more than 1,800 entries, which were divided into 325 flights and poured into more than 9,000 glasses.

The entries included such a wide range of expressive wines across all of the categories, it was impossible to single any out like we did Hidden Bench’s barrel fermented white blend back then. The quality of Canadian wine has improved significantly, with outstanding examples of every style being produced in vineyards across the country.

For the first three days, the judges work in groups of three and each panel tastes about 90 wines. The tasting order is randomised for each group to ensure fair evaluation and avoid the primacy effect (where tasters tend to favour the first sample in short flights) and the recency effect (where tasters often favour the last sample in long flights), as well as the carry-over effect. For example, when you taste a wine with high alcohol content and strong oak-derived flavours, it coats your mouth and can make the next wine taste weaker or overly acidic by comparison.

After scoring each wine, the panel discusses their scores and impressions before the panel chair submits their final scores.

On the final two days, the wines that scored highest are called back for a second look. This is to confirm that they deserve their score and to identify the very best wines as potential winners of a Platinum medal, which is awarded to the top one per cent of the entries.

There were some serious wines examined during the five days. I cannot wait to see the results, which will be posted on WineAlign from mid-July onwards.

The nationwide competition was founded in 2001 by Wine Access magazine editors Anthony Gismondi and David Lawrason. In 2010, it was taken over by WineAlign, with the same core of judges, volunteers, and procedures remaining in place.

Saturday Sip

Flavium Selección Mencía 2023
Bierzo, Castilla y Leon, Spain $14.95 (574624)

This expressive red wine displays the Mencia grape’s distinctive fragrant and peppery characteristics, offering a pleasant balance of sweet and sour red fruits and pomegranate notes. The style is medium-bodied with attractive, concentrated fruit flavours, supple texture and lingering finish. A mix of herbal, spice and cedar notes contribute to the complexity. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario. (91/100)

Subscribe now

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!

Share

Jay McInerney’s new novel, See You on the Other Side, opens with a 35th anniversary party at Odeon, the iconic Tribeca bistro where Warhol, Basquiat and other notable artists, actors, models and musicians hung out in the 1980s. According to legend, they would also frequent the downstairs bathroom.

An image of the restaurant’s red neon sign, reminiscent of an Edward Hopper painting, was used as the cover art for McInerney’s debut, Bright Lights, Big City. It’s the first Easter egg in a book that’s strewn with them, all hidden in plain sight.

Stepping out of the cab into the twilight, he felt a rush of nostalgia at the sight of the red-­and-­white neon sign hovering above West Broadway like an old movie title materializing on a dark screen. Like the start of a film set in New York, it signaled a certain promise—­the promise of metropolitan pleasure, of social and gustatory and erotic adventures. The evening was freighted with possibility. The Odeon was one of the surviving landmarks of the protean city he’d inhabited for almost four decades, teeming with memories, layers of personal history, ghosts: prenightclub dinners with the boys punctuated by trips downstairs to the bathroom to snort cocaine, which made him feel as if he would live forever and the night would never end… See You on the Other Side, Chapter 1

See You on the Other Side is McInerney’s ninth book and brings the story of Manhattan couple Corrine and Russell Calloway to a close. Their story was introduced in Brightness Falls (1992) and continued through The Good Life (2006) and Bright, Precious Days (2016).

One of the joys of reading McInerney’s work is gaining an insider’s view of Manhattan; the plot introduces you to trendy lofts, fabulous careers and famous names. There’s plenty of local colour in the form of wine, food, restaurants and real estate tidbits, and I am here for it.

I read it in the same way I read Architectural Digest or Travel + Leisure to gain insight into a lifestyle I would never experience otherwise.

Ask another reader, however, and they might not be so forgiving of the seemingly shallow, chatty narrative style. (I still remember my Victorian literature professor casting his eyes on a copy of Lee Tulloch’s Fabulous Nobodies on my desk and sighing, “Commercial literature…”)

From my window seat, the Calloways’ story is both romantic and tragic. It is relatable because McInerney truly cares about his characters and delights in sharing their story. They are interesting people living interesting lives in a rapidly changing world, of which they are both aware and completely blind.

If you are enjoying what you are reading, please comment, like, share and subscribe. If you find the information valuable, please consider a paid subscription. Cheers!